GBH News Rooted
Edges of Empowerment: The Politics of Black Hair
Episode 24 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Paris unpacks how Black haircare fuels healing, activism, and civil rights.
Paris speaks with a panel of experts to explore how Black haircare serves as a powerful tool for community care, social activism, and civil liberties in America.
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GBH News Rooted is a local public television program presented by GBH
GBH News Rooted
Edges of Empowerment: The Politics of Black Hair
Episode 24 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Paris speaks with a panel of experts to explore how Black haircare serves as a powerful tool for community care, social activism, and civil liberties in America.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorshipPARIS: YOU EVER NOTICE HOW FOR BLACK FOLKS, HERE ISN’T JUST HAIR, ITS HISTORY, HE TAILING, IT’S A PROTEST, IT’S PRIDE.
AND SOMEHOW, IT’S STILL A PROBLEM.
SO HOW DID WE GET HERE?
LET’S START WITH THE ROOTS, LITERALLY.
BLACK BARBERS AND BEAUTICIANS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN MORE THAN STYLISTS.
THEY WERE ORGANIZERS, FUNDERS, AND FREEDOM FIGHTERS.
MADAM CJ WALKER DIDN’T JUST SELL HAIR PRODUCTS.
SHE BUILT AN EMPIRE, AND FUNDED CIVIL RIGHTS CAMPAIGNS.
LUCILLE CAMPBELL GREEN RANDOLPH USED HER BEAUTY SALON PROFITS TO BANKROLL BLACK NEWSPAPERS.
JAMES ARMSTRONG GAVE HAIRCUTS AND SPACE TO MARCHERS.
RAYMAN PARKS, WHO WAS ROSA’S HUSBAND, WAS ALSO A BARBER.
ARNIE CHAMBERS AND NELSON MALDEN, BARBERS TURNED POLITICAL POWERHOUSES.
AND THEN THERE’S THAT AFRO, THAT GLORIOUS, GRAVITY DEFYING -- GRAVITY DEFYING CROWN OF RESISTANT.
IT SAID I’M BLACK, I’M PROUD, AND I’M NOT HERE TO ASSIMILATE.
IT WAS A SYMBOL OF LIBERATION, AND STILL IS.
HERE’S THE TWIST.
ALL BLACK FOLKS WERE BEING PUNISHED FOR WEARING THEIR HAIR NATURALLY, NONBLACK CELEBRITIES HAVE BEEN CELEBRATED FOR COPYING IT.
REMEMBER WHEN KIM KARDASHIAN CALLED CORNROWS BRAIDS?
MEANWHILE, BLACK PEOPLE READING FIRED, SUSPENDED, AND DENIED OPPORTUNITIES JUST FOR WEARING THEIR HAIR IN THE WAY IT GROWS OUT OF THEIR HEADS.
MILITARY RULES, CORPORATE DRESS CODES, SCHOOL POLICIES ALL SAID YOUR HAIR IS UNPROFESSIONAL.
AND THAT’S NOT JUST DISCRIMINATION, IT’S PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE.
BEFORE THE CROWN ACT, COMPANIES COULD LEGALLY SAY WE DON’T LIKE YOUR HAIR, AND THAT WAS THAT.
BUT THANKS TO ACTIVISTS, STYLISTS, AND LAWMAKERS, WE ARE FINALLY SEEING CHANGE.
PSYCHOHAIRAPY COMMUNITY SALONS AND MOVEMENTS ARE USING HAIR AS A TOOL FOR MIDDLE HEALTH, ADVOCACY, AND EVEN IN THE BOTTLE, -- EVEN IN THE BIBLE, SAMSON’S HAIR WAS HIS POWER.
HAIR IS POWER.
HERE IS CULTURE.
HAIR IS CARE.
SO WHAT WITH THE COMMUNITY LOOK LIKE IF WE BUILT IT AROUND HEALTHY EMBRACED HAIR, AROUND JOY, NOT JUDGMENT?
AROUND CARE, NOT CONTROL?
WE KNOW THE PROBLEM.
NOW LET’S GET TO THE ROOT OF IT.
I’M PARIS ALSTON, AND THIS IS ROOTED.
HAIR STYLIST AND BARBERS OFTEN SEEK THE THINGS WERE TRYING TO COVER UP, AND I’M NOT -- I’M NOT JUST TALKING ABOUT GRAY HAIR OR A BALD SPOT.
COSMETOLOGISTS ARE BEING TRAINED TO IDENTIFY DOMESTIC VIOLENCE.
IT IS CALLED CARE IN THE CHAIR.
THREE OF THE WOMEN LEADING IT ARE WITH ME NOW.
A FOUNDER OF UTE LINK, A FORM THAT COLLECTS -- CONNECTS PINES WOULD BE TO PROFESSIONALS, AND A PSYCHOLOGIST AND CEO WHO IS WORKING TO DESTIGMATIZE MENTAL HEALTH CARE IN COMMUNITIES OF COLOR.
THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR BEING HERE.
IT’S SUCH AN IMPORTANT CONVERSATION.
>> THANK YOU FOR HAVING US.
PARIS: DANA, TELL US WHY THIS INITIATIVE WAS RIGHT FOR THE CITY OF BOSTON?
>> OUR OFFICE -- THE MAYOR’S OFFICE OF WOMEN’S ADVANCEMENT HAS FOUR INITIATIVES.
WE TALK ABOUT HEALTH, SAFETY, REPRESENTATION, AND ECONOMIC EQUITY.
ONE OF THE THINGS WE’VE SEEN THAT NEEDS PARTICULAR FOCUS IS GENDER-BASED VIOLENCE.
OUR OFFICE HAS ALWAYS OPEN OUR DOORS TO COMMITTEE MEMBERS SAYING THERE IS A NEED AND HOW DO WE BRING SOLUTIONS TO MORE FOLKS THROUGHOUT THE CITY?
WE THOUGHT IT WAS A GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO PARTNER WITH THEM.
>> WALK US THROUGH HOW COSMETOLOGISTS GET TRAINED TO IDENTIFY THE SIGNS?
>> WE PUT OUR HEADS TOGETHER AND CAME UP WITH THIS AMAZING PROFILE AND THE GOAL IS TO PROVIDE BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS WITH A THREE HOUR TRAINING THAT REALLY COVERS THE SIGNS TO WATCH FOR, THE WARNING SIGNS, HOW TO IDENTIFY RESOURCES IN THE COMMUNITY ON HOW TO TAKE CARE OF THEMSELVES AS WELL AS THEIR IDENTIFYING THESE ISSUES, AND REALLY HOW TO EXPAND AND CONNECT WITH EACH OTHER SO THAT THEY HAVE THAT SUPPORT.
PARIS: WHAT ARE SOME OF THOSE SIGNS THAT A STYLIST MIGHT PICK UP ON?
>> I’D LIKE TO SAY THAT ONE IN THREE WOMEN EXPERIENCE DOMESTIC VIOLENCE AND ONE IN FOUR MEN EXPERIENCE THE MYSTIC VIOLENCE IN THE UNITED STATES.
SOME OF THOSE SIGNS A HAIRSTYLIST MIGHT NOTICE WOULD BE PATCHING OR BALD SPOTS, THEY MIGHT NOTICE BRUISING ON THE SCALP.
THEY MAKE COMMENTS OR BE VERY EXPLICIT IN THINGS THEY HAVE SAID, SO IT’S EQUIPPING BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS WITH WAYS TO RESPOND WITH CARE AND KINDNESS.
PARIS: HOW COULD THIS BE EIGHT LAUNCHING PAD FOR REIMAGINING BEAUTY SPACES OF ALL TYPES TO DO HEALING?
>> I THINK IT’S SUCH AN OPPORTUNITY FOR PROFESSIONALS TO EXTEND THEMSELVES AND TO EXPAND THE CAPACITY OF HEALTH CARE PROFESSIONALS THROUGHOUT THE CITY.
BPAC HAS BEEN TRAINING COMMITTEE HEALTH WORKERS.
I CAN SEE THIS AS AN EXTENSION OF THAT.
WE ARE PARTNERING WITH ORGANIZATIONS TO WORK WITH BARBERSHOPS.
I THINK IT JUST EXTENDS THE MEDICINE THAT WE HAVE WITHIN OUR OWN COMMUNITY AND OUR JOB WITHIN THE CITY IS TO MAKE IT AVAILABLE TO AS MANY PEOPLE AS WE CAN.
PARIS: AND WHAT IS YOUR VISION FOR THAT?
>> I THINK ABOUT THAT A LOT.
ONE OF MY MISSIONS IS DESTIGMATIZE A MENTAL HEALTH.
ONE OF THE THINGS WE KNOW IS THERE JUST NOT ENOUGH THERAPISTS TO SERVE OUR COMMUNITIES.
SO THE MORE THAT WE CAN EQUIP COMMUNITY PARTNERS OR GRANDPARENTS ARE JUST ADVOCATES WITHIN OUR SPACE, IT’S GOING TO BE HELPFUL.
THEY CAN BECOME A CONDUIT AND ADVOCATE FOR PEOPLE TO GET SUPPORT.
PARIS: WE SURE LOOK FORWARD TO SEEING HOW ALL OF THIS UNFOLDS AND GROWS AND HELP MORE PEOPLE GETTING CARE IN THE CHAIR THAT THEY NEED.
THANK EACH OF YOU SO VERY MUCH FOR JOINING ME HERE AT "ROOTED."
YOU CAN LEARN MORE ABOUT CHAIR IN THE CARE BY VISITING CARE IN THE CHAIR.COM.
WE WILL CONTINUE TO LOOK AT HOW HEALTH CARE IS COMING TOGETHER TO STRENGTHEN OUR COMMUNITIES.
>> THROUGH THE BARBERSHOP CLINIC, THEY ARE FINDING HEALING, TOO.
SHE LAUNCHED THE ARBOR SHOP CLINIC AFTER SEVERAL TRIAL RUNS OVER THE PAST COUPLE OF YEARS.
SHE HAD HOSTED A SUCCESSFUL EVENT AND SAID MEN WERE STARTING TO ASK IF SOMETHING SIMILAR EXISTED FOR THEM.
>> I WONDERED IF THERE WAS A PROGRAM LIKE THAT FOR MEN AND I STARTED RESEARCHING.
>> INITIALLY, THE IDEA WAS TO INCLUDE HAIRCUTS, BUT THEY SOON DISCOVERED MOST MEN WERE LOYAL TO THEIR OWN BARBERS.
STILL, THE MEN SAID THEY WOULD COME TO THE BARBERSHOP FOR GROUP THERAPY.
>> MY FIRST TIME COMING TO THE BARBERSHOP CLINIC WAS DEFINITELY LIKE A SPIRITUAL EXPERIENCE.
COMING IN THAT DAY AND THERE BEING LIKE A VERY, I WOULD SAY INTENSE ENERGY IN THE SHOP, MY FIRST TIME AS BEING SOMETHING LIKE A NEW CONCEPT AND DIFFERENT BROTHERS BEING IN THE SPACE.
BUT ONCE WE SETTLED IN, I FELT A BIG RELEASE I ALSO CRIED A LOT THAT DAY, SO IT WAS DEFINITELY, I WOULD SAY IT CAME IN HEAVY.
>> THE CLINIC IS LED BY A LICENSED THERAPIST FOR THREE HOURS WEEKLY OVER A COURSE OF FIVE MONTHS.
THE FIRST SESSION IS IN PERSON IN THE BARBERSHOP IN THE FOLLOWING ONES ARE VIRTUAL.
>> WITH GROUP THERAPY, WHICH I REALLY DO ENJOY DOING GROUPS, IS THAT YOU HAVE THE DYNAMIC OF DIFFERENT SHARED EXPERIENCES ALL COLLIDING INTO ONE SPACE.
SO IT’S NOT DRIVEN BY THE FOCUS JUST BEING ON ONE PERSON.
>> IT WAS EASY BECAUSE IT WAS WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE AND THE LEVEL OF UNDERSTANDING OF WHERE I’M COMING FROM, BASED ON WHAT I’M STRUGGLING WITH WAS EASILY PERCEPTIVE.
AND I COULD RELATE FROM OTHER BROTHERS WHO LOOKED JUST LIKE ME.
>> HE SAID WHEN HE WAS LOOKING FOR A THERAPIST FOR HIMSELF, HE REALIZED THERE WERE NOT MANY PROFESSIONALS WHO WERE ALSO BLACK.
HE KNOWS FIRSTHAND THAT IS IMPORTANT FOR LIKE PEOPLE TO HAVE ACCESS FOR PEOPLE WITH A NATURAL UNDERSTANDING OF THEIR CULTURE.
>> HISTORICALLY, WE UNDERSTAND THAT THERE HAS BEEN NECESSARILY BEINGS OF RESERVATION AS IT RELATES TO PUBLIC HEALTH, MENTAL HEALTH.
HISTORICALLY, MENTAL HEALTH WAS NOT DESIGNED FOR OUR PEOPLE TO BENEFIT FROM.
WE WERE LAST ON THE TOTEM POLE.
WHEN A SOCIAL WORKER CAME TO THE BLACK COMMUNITY TO SHOW UP AND CHECK ON YOUR HOUSE, IT WAS USUALLY TO SEPARATE THE FAMILY, OR TO DETERMINE IF YOU ARE ELIGIBLE FOR BENEFITS.
SO WE WERE NOT GOING TO LET THOSE INDIVIDUALS INTO OUR HOUSE TO SEE OUR BUSINESS.
SO WE HAD TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO DEAL WITH THESE THINGS ON OUR OWN.
SO FOR YEARS, FOR DECADES, THERE HAS BEEN THIS FEAR.
SO IF YOU DID HAVE A POTENTIAL DIAGNOSIS, YOU WERE NOT REALLY TREATED, YOU WERE NOW OVERLY MEDICATED, PUT INTO INSTITUTIONS, THAT IS SOMEBODY’S CRAZY UNCLE THAT NEVER MADE IT OUT OF THE HOSPITAL.
SO WE UNDERSTAND ALL OF THOSE THINGS.
SO OUR GOAL HAS BEEN TO REALLY BE A VISIBLE FACE THAT BUILDS TRUST WITH THE COMMUNITY, THAT BRINGS IN QUALIFIED INDIVIDUALS TO PROVIDE SERVICES AND SUPPORT.
ENTER CREATE AN ENVIRONMENT THAT IS A SAFE SPACE FOR FOLKS TO FEEL WARM, WELCOME, AND ACCEPTED.
>> ONCE COMPLETED, CLIENTS GET A LIST OF RESOURCES TO CONTINUE THEIR MENTAL HEALTH JOURNEYS.
>> I THINK IF THEY ARE ABLE TO TAKE THIS NATIONWIDE, THIS NEEDS TO BE IN EVERY CITY.
THERE’S A LOT OF VIOLENCE WITHIN OUR COMMUNITY, A LOT OF HEALING THAT NEEDS TO BE DONE.
BUT THIS IS ABLE TO EXPAND CITY TO CITY, I THINK IT WILL BE MAJOR.
>> CURRENTLY OFFERING FREE SERVICES, THE BARBERSHOP CLINIC IS LOOKING TO EXPAND.
EACH LOCATION THEY ARE LOOKING TO BREAK DOWN THE STIGMA OF MENTAL HEALTH AS WELL AS TO INCREASE ACCESS.
PARIS: WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MENTAL HEALTH AND HAIRCARE INTERSECT?
NOT JUST IN SALONS, BUT AT SCALE ACROSS THE COUNTRY OR EVEN THE GLOBE?
WERE JOINED BY CLINICAL PSYCHOLOGIST AND HAIRSTYLIST TO HIS PIONEERING THE MOVEMENT KNOWN AS PSYCHOHAIRAPY TO ANSWER JUST THAT.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR BEING HERE.
>> THANKS FOR HAVING ME, AND I LOVE YOUR HAIR.
PARIS: I WAS ABOUT TO SAY THE SAME THING TO YOU.
THANK YOU.
TELL ME A LITTLE BIT ABOUT WHY HAIRCARE AND MENTAL HEALTH BOARDS ARE SO CLOSELY CONNECTED?
>> HAIR IS A COMPLEX LANGUAGE.
IT CAN TELL HOW OLD YOU ARE, YOUR MARITAL STATUS AND YOUR SPIRITUAL BELIEFS, BUT ALSO YOUR UNDERSTANDING OF FEELINGS, IDENTITY, AND THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE TWO.
PARIS: THAT’S SOMETHING WE DON’T ALWAYS THINK ABOUT IN TERMS OF HOW IT MIGHT RELATE TO OUR EMOTIONAL HEALTH.
>> IT CLEARLY DOESN’T TERMS OF THE ANXIETY, THE PRIDE, THE HAPPINESS, THE JOY, EVEN THE STRENGTH OF IT ALL.
EVEN IN DECIDING WHAT HAIRSTYLE TO WEAR TODAY, HAD TO GO THROUGH ALL THOSE STAGES.
PARIS: WHEN SOMEBODY ELSE HAS DONE MY HAIR, I TEND TO FEEL A LOT BETTER INSTEAD OF ME HAVING TO WAKE UP AND FIGURE OUT WHAT I’M GOING TO DO.
ALTHOUGH I DO LOVE YOU, JACKIE, THAT’S MY HAIRSTYLIST.
[LAUGHTER] I JUST WANT TO DROP A STATISTIC HERE.
LIKE WOMEN’S HAIR IS 2.5 TIMES MORE LIKELY TO BE PERCEIVED AS UNPROFESSIONAL.
AND ALSO, LIKE WOMEN, ESPECIALLY WITH COILED OR TEXTURED HAIR ARE TWO TIMES AS LIKELY TO EXPERIENCE MICRO-AGGRESSIONS IN THE WORKPLACE THEN BLACK WOMEN WITH STRAIGHTER HAIR.
WHAT DO NUMBERS LIKE THAT TELL US ABOUT THE WAY WE CHOOSE TO WEAR OUR HAIR IN EVERY DAY CAN SOMETIMES ATTRACT THESE UNWANTED ?
?
ATTENTIONS >> THERE IS SO MUCH BIAS AROUND OUR HAIR TEXTURES AND HAIRSTYLES.
BUT WE DEFINITELY NEED TO UNDERSTAND THAT IN A SYSTEM OF WHITE SUPREMACY AND RACISM, WHERE BLACK WOMEN IN PARTICULAR ARE ATTACKED IN TERMS OF OUR AESTHETICS.
NEED TO HAVE LONG OR STRAIGHT HERE TO BE SEEN AS PROFESSIONAL, OR HAVING LONG OR STRAIGHT HERE TO BE VIEWED AS FEMININE.
SO BATTLING THIS RACIAL, GENDER BIAS, AND EVEN MEN PROJECTING SUCH NEGATIVITY ON OUR BEAUTIFUL HAIR.
PARIS: YOU HAVE RESEARCHED APRA-CUBAN SOCIETY AND HOW RACIAL POLITICS CAN SHOW UP IN HERE THERE.
I THINK ABOUT THE WHOLE WOULD HAIR NARRATIVE THAT WE HAVE SEEN PERSIST THROUGHOUT U.S.
CHRIS ROCK MADE A WHOLE DOCUMENTARY ABOUT IT.
HOW DO WE KIND OF HURT OURSELVES IN THAT WAY?
>> IS COMPLEX.
IT’S SO INTERGENERATIONAL.
SOME OF THE RESEARCH I WAS DOING IN THE CARIBBEAN, THEY SAY THAT WHEN THE U.S.
SNEEZES, THE CARIBBEAN GETS A COLD.
CHALLENGING BLACKNESS AND EVEN JUST HOW IT HAS BEEN PASSED DOWN GENERATION TO GENERATION, SUSTAINING SYSTEMS VERSUS RESISTANCE AND CHALLENGING.
EVEN IN A PLACE LIKE CUBA THAT WE THINK ABOUT HAVING SUCH LIBERATION, THEY STILL FACE SOME OF THE SAME ISSUES THAT WE FACE.
PARIS: DO YOU THINK WE HAVE OVERCOME THAT A LITTLE BIT?
>> I DO THINK IN THE 1960’S AND 70’S, AND PEOPLE WENT FROM BEING CALLED COLORED AND NEGRO TO BLACK OR AFRICAN, THERE WAS A CHANGE IN AESTHETIC.
THE BIG "LACK IS BEAUTIFUL" MOVEMENT.
>> I THINK THAT WAS REALLY IMPORTANT.
MY PARENTS GENERATION, MY MOM PROUDLY SAID SHE WORE IT NATURAL AND HAD AN AFRO, BUT I DO THINK IT HAD AN IMPACT ON THE WAY I WEAR MY HAIR.
EVEN THOUGH SHE LATER STRAIGHTENED HER HAIR AND HAD IT NATURAL AND THE JERRY CURL THING, SHE LEVER -- SHE NEVER LET ME DO MINE.
LIKE I’VE GONE THROUGH THESE THINGS SO YOU DON’T HAVE TO DO IT.
JUST THE PRICE SHE TOOK IN CARING FOR MY HAIR, THIS WAS ONE OF OUR SACRED BONDING OPPORTUNITIES WHERE SHE WOULD AFFIRM MY HAIR AND MY BEAUTY.
I THINK A LOT OF GEN Z HAVE NEVER HAD CHEMICAL RELAXERS SO IT’S INTERESTING THAT THEY NEVER HAD TO FULLY TRANSITION.
PARIS: AS A MILLENNIAL, WHEN I SAY WE HAVE BEEN THROUGH A LOT, ME AND JACKIE HAVE BEEN THROUGH IT.
WE WERE NATURAL TO START, WE WENT THROUGH THE PRESSING CURL THINGS, WE HAD BRAIDS, RELAXER, ETC.
NATURAL STYLES.
NOW LIKE MANY MILLENNIAL BLACK WOMEN, I’M CONSIDERING LOCKS EVERY OTHER DAY.
BUT UP HAD FAMILY MEMBERS BE LIKE, LOCKS, WHAT?
THAT’S WHAT YOU’RE GOING TO DO?
SO I THINK THERE IS STILL A LOT THAT WE HAVE TO WORK THROUGH.
>> I’M STRUCK BY THAT COMMENT BECAUSE AS DIFFERENT MEANING PUT ON LOCKS AND BRAIDS, BUT LOCKS HAVE GENERALLY BEEN ASSOCIATED WITH RESISTANCE AND WARRIOR HOOD, EVEN LIKE THE MASAO IN TANZANIA, OR TO THINK ABOUT RASTAFARIAN MOVEMENTS AND THAT SPIRITUAL CONNECTION.
AROUND THE GLOBE, USUALLY LOCKS ARE ASSOCIATED WITH FIGHTING BACK.
PARIS: THAT KIND OF RAISES THE POINT ABOUT WHERE WE CAN SEE HAIR BEING POWERFUL AND HOW WE CAN KIND OF CLAIMANT FOR OUR OWN IN SPACES THAT ARE SAFE FOR US TO WHERE OUR HAIR IN ANY GIVEN WAY.
ONE PLACE WE SEE THAT IS SALONS AND BARBERSHOPS.
TELL ME WHY THESE ARE PLACES THAT CAN REALLY BE HOTBEDS OF NOT ONLY EMPOWERMENT BUT ALSO HEALING.
>> I WENT AND WORKED AT A SALON EVEN AFTER HAVING A PHD BECAUSE I KNEW THAT’S WHERE THE PEOPLE WERE.
MY FAMILY WAS CONCERNED, LIKE DO YOU HAVE ENOUGH MONEY?
WHY DON’T YOU HAVE YOUR OWN PRIVATE PRACTICE?
BUT I DO THINK SALONS AND BARBERSHOPS ARE CULTURAL HUBS.
THIS IS A SACRED SPACE WHERE PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY LET THEIR HAIR DOWN, LITERALLY, TO HAVE CERTAIN CONVERSATIONS.
IT’S VERY ECONOMIC, IN TERMS OF PEOPLE ARE SELLING THINGS.
PARIS: T-SHIRTS MAY BE STOCKS, HANDBAGS.
>> WE HAVE OUR OWN ECONOMIC SYSTEM IN THERE.
IN TERMS OF THE POLITICAL CONVERSATIONS THAT ARE HAPPENING, AND THIS IS INTERGENERATIONAL.
WHETHER IT WAS MARTIN LUTHER KING ORGANIZING DIFFERENT MOVEMENTS IN BARBERSHOPS, VOTING DRIVES OR ORGANIZING PROTESTS, OR EVEN LIKE MARCUS GARVEY, LEARNING HOW TO DEBATE PEOPLE BASED ON CONVERSATIONS HE WOULD HAVE IN BARBERSHOPS.
SO IT REALLY DEVELOPS PEOPLE POLITICALLY, THE NEWS COULD BE ON AND PEOPLE ARE WEIGHING IN ON WHAT IS HAPPENING IN SOCIETY AT LARGE AND WITHIN THEIR COMMUNITY, TOO.
PARIS: AND WHAT ABOUT THE STYLIST THEMSELVES?
AIXA’S BE A FORM OF HEALING AND EMPOWERMENT FOR THEM AS WELL?
>> THERE’S SOMETHING VERY THERAPEUTIC THAT HAPPENS EVEN AS AN ARTIST, IN TERMS OF HAVING THE OPPORTUNITY TO CREATE, BUT TO PUT SO MUCH ENERGY AND HEALING.
IT’S A RECIPROCAL PROCESS.
EVEN WHEN I HAVE A GREAT THERAPY SESSION, I FEEL GREAT ABOUT MYSELF.
AND TO THINK ABOUT THOSE HAIR SESSIONS WHERE I’VE TRANSFORMED SOMEONE’S APPEARANCE, THERE IS EXCHANGE, THERE IS RECIPROCITY.
TO MAKE SOMEONE FEEL BETTER DOES ESSENTIALLY FUEL THE STYLIST AS WELL.
PARIS: I THINK ABOUT THOSE VIDEOS ON SOCIAL MEDIA WHERE THEY WILL TAKE PEOPLE WHO, A LOT OF TIMES AS BLACK WOMEN AND MAYBE OLDER BLACK WOMEN, THEY DON’T MAKE THE TIME TO TAKE CARE OF THEMSELVES.
THEY WILL GET THESE MAKEOVERS AND THEY WILL SPEND THEM AROUND IN THE CHAIR AND THEY START CRYING.
BUT THE STYLIST IS GOING CRAZY, LIKE, I DID THAT.
>> YES, IT IS POWERFUL TO SEE SOMEONE TRANSFORM BEFORE YOUR VERY EYES AND YOU KNOW THAT YOU DID THAT.
EVERYONE WANTS TO LOOK BEAUTIFUL.
BEAUTY ISN’T JUST ABOUT APPEARANCE.
IT IS A FEELING.
SO YOU CAN REALLY TRANSFORM SOMEONE’S EMOTIONAL STATE THROUGH THE HAIRCARE PROCESS.
PARIS: OF COURSE WE TALKED ABOUT HOW OUR HAIR IS NOT ALWAYS ACCEPTABLE IN EVERY PLACE, BUT THERE HAVE BEEN POLICY CHANGES CHANGE THAT.
I KNOW THAT YOU TESTIFIED BEFORE CONGRESS AROUND THE CROWN ACT WHICH WAS PUSHED IN PART BY OUR OWN CONGRESSWOMAN, IONA PRESLEY.
HOW HAS THAT MADE AN IMPACT?
>> BY LAW, WE HAVE TO PAY ATTENTION TO HAIR DISCRIMINATION NOW.
IT WAS NOT BEING ACCOUNTED OR ACKNOWLEDGE.
IN SEVERAL STATES, NOT ALL.
PARIS: THERE ARE ONLY 27.
>> THOSE OTHER 23 DO NOT HAVE THAT, SO PEOPLE ARE NOT PROTECTED.
IT’S DONE A GOOD JOB OF HEIGHTENING AWARENESS, BUT IT’S A MATTER OF HOW WELL IT IS ENFORCED.
PARIS: WHY DID WE NEED A LAW TO MAKE THAT PLANNING?
>> PEOPLE ASKED ME THAT ALL THE TIME, AND I REALLY STRUGGLED, BUT WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT THE NATURE AND THE POLITICS OF THIS COUNTRY, WHERE, UNFORTUNATE, BLACK PEOPLE HAVE ALWAYS BEEN DISCRIMINATED AGAINST.
THAT IS EMBEDDED INTO THE HISTORY AND CULTURE OF THIS COUNTRY.
HAIR IS ONE OF THOSE METHODOLOGIES.
WE THINK ABOUT THE CIVIL RIGHTS ACT OF 1964, IS SAID IT IS ILLEGAL TO DISCRIMINATE AGAINST SOMEONE BASED ON RACE.
BUT THERE WAS A LOOPHOLE, HE DID MENTION HAIR AT ALL.
SO HAIR IS PART OF OUR RACIAL PHENOTYPE, OUR RACIAL EXPRESSION.
SO HAIR WAS A SAFE WAY TO DISCRIMINATE.
SO NOW TO REALLY MAKE SURE HAIR IS REALLY PROTECTED AS UNDERSTANDING RACISM IN GENERAL.
PARIS: WE HAVE COME A LONG WAY WITH THE CROWN ACT ALTHOUGH ALL 50 STATES HAVE NOT ENACTED IT.
HOW FAR DO WE HAVE TO GO TO ACHIEVE THAT EQUITY?
>> PRETTY FAR.
AGAIN, I LOVE POLITICS AND RULES AND LAW, BUT IT IS ONLY AS EFFECTIVE AS IT IS ABLE TO BE ENFORCED.
SO I DON’T LOVE EVERY SCHOOL IS BEING EVALUATED FOR THEIR DRESS CODES -- I DON’T KNOW IF EVERY JOB IS BEING EVALUATED FOR THE HEAD SHOTS THAT THEY REQUIRE THEIR TEAM TO POST AND WHAT SOUGHT -- STYLE IS APPROPRIATE.
SO THERE SO MUCH MORE ASSESSMENT TO LOOK AT EXISTING POLICIES AND MAKES YOUR PEOPLE UNDERSTAND THE CONNECTION BETWEEN RACE, RACISM AND BEAUTY, AND TO BE ABLE TO CHALLENGE WHERE IT IS PERPETUATING VIOLENCE TO SOME DEGREE IN TERMS OF OUR BODIES AND BEING HYPERCRITICAL AND JUDGMENTAL.
PARIS: AND I ALSO IMAGINE CHALLENGING HYPOCRISY.
[LAUGHTER] >> WE SEE OTHER RACES WEARING HAIRSTYLES THAT WE HAVE BEEN DISCRIMINATED AGAINST FOR, BUT THEY ARE SEEMING TO GET AWAY WITH IT.
PARIS: WHAT IS THAT ABOUT?
[LAUGHTER] IT REALLY MAKES ME THINK ABOUT CULTURE.
A FAMOUS BLACK PSYCHOLOGIST SAYS CULTURE IS A DESIGN FOR LIVING, AND PATTERNS FOR INTERPRETING REALITY.
SO IT IS RIGHT FOR ONE GROUP TO DO SOMETHING AND WRONG FOR ANOTHER GROUP TO DO IT.
IT IS EMBEDDED INTO OUR CULTURE TO EVALUATE THIS IN A HYPOCRISY AND BIAS WAY.
PARIS: THERE IS AN ARTIST WHOSE NAME I CANNOT REMEMBER, BUT THEY DID THIS PROJECT WHERE THEY TOOK A LOT OF MIDDLE-AGED, WORKING WHITE WOMEN AND GAVE THEM THESE VERY BLACK HAIRSTYLES.
THEY HAD LIKE CORNROWS AND CURLS COMING OUT THE TOP, ETC.
BEAUTIFUL HAIRSTYLES, BUT IT WAS SO INTERESTING BECAUSE WE DON’T NORMALLY SEE THAT ON THAT POPULATION OF PEOPLE.
IF WE BEGAN TO SEE THAT MORE, WITH THIS DISCRIMINATION BE LESSENED?
>> I DON’T KNOW.
THERE IS A WHITE IDEAL OF BEAUTY, WHICH COULD THEN MAKE PEOPLE LEAN MORE INTO THOSE STYLES IF WHITENESS SAID THAT.
I STILL FEEL LIKE THERE WOULD BE SOME LOOPHOLE THAT THE HAIR NEEDS TO BE BLONDE OR STRAIGHT IN ORDER TO EVEN HAVE BRAIDS.
SO I’M THINKING ABOUT HOW POTENTIALLY THERE WOULD STILL BE A HIERARCHY IN AESTHETICS IN THAT WAY.
PARIS: YOU NEVER KNOW.
WITH SOCIAL MEDIA, TRIGGER POINT ABOUT GEN Z, WE HAVE SO MUCH MORE ACCESS EVEN FROM LIKE HOW DO YOU TAKE CARE OF YOUR HAIR AT HOME, THERE ARE THINGS THAT WERE NOT ACCESSIBLE WHEN I WAS GROWING UP.
I’M LIKE, THE GIRLS ARE LEARNING.
I’M STILL TRYING TO LEARN.
JACKIE AND I ARE STILL ON OUR JOURNEY TOGETHER, BUT WE ARE GETTING THERE.
SO HOW CAN PEOPLE INCORPORATE CERTAIN RITUALS OR PRACTICES IN THEIR OWN AT HOME HAIRCARE TO HELP SUPPORT THEIR EMOTIONAL HEALTH?
>> I LOVE A GOOD WASH DAY ROUTINE.
YOU CAN REALLY ENGAGE IN MINDFULNESS.
IN TERMS OF LISTENING TO CERTAIN MUSIC THAT IS AFFIRMING, TO HAVING CERTAIN CANDLES OR AROMATHERAPY IN YOUR SPACE THAT RELAXES YOUR NERVOUS SYSTEM.
I REALLY ENJOY SMOOTH FEELING PRODUCTS THAT WE CAN JUST MOISTURIZE OUR HAIR.
I THINK IT’S REALLY A MATTER OF ENGAGING ALL OF OUR SENSES, BUT ALSO SPEAKING WORDS OF AFFIRMATION TO OURSELVES, SAYING SOMETHING LIKE, I FEEL ROOTED.
JUST TO THINK ABOUT THAT GROUNDED AND ROOTED FEELING, THAT CAN BE A WAY WE CARE FOR OURSELVES AND OUR HAIR TO REALLY GET TO THE CORE OF WHAT SOME OF OUR STRESSORS ARE.
PARIS: LASTLY, WE ARE LIVING IN A TIME WHERE D.E.I.
POLICIES ARE BEING CHALLENGED.
HOW DO YOU CONTINUE TO PUSH POLICY THAT WOULD END DISCRIMINATION BASED ON HAIR IN A MOMENT LIKE THIS?
>> THE HARD-HITTING QUESTIONS.
I THINK IT’S ABOUT EDUCATION.
I REALLY ENJOY HAVING CONVERSATIONS WITH CHILDREN SO THAT THAT NEXT GENERATION HAS AWARENESS, INSIGHT AND SKILLS AND CAN RESIST AN PUSHBACK.
THEY CAN I GUESS BEACON CONTROL IN THE SAME WAY THAT PREVIOUS GENERATIONS HAVE BEEN IN TERMS OF HIDING CERTAIN INFORMATION.
THE WAY THAT MY TWO-YEAR-OLD NIECE AND NEPHEW CAN WORK A PHONE BETTER THAN ME SUGGEST THEY CAN HAVE ACCESS TO INTERRACIAL -- TO INFORMATION THAT WE DIDN’T HAVE.
I THINK THAT’S PART OF A MOVEMENT TO REALLY INFORM A SOCIETY.
PARIS: PLEASE CONTINUE TO KEEP WITH US ON INSTAGRAM OR ONLINE AND THROUGH OUR NEWSLETTER.
YOU CAN SUBSCRIBE TO US ON SPOTIFY OR ANYWHERE YOU LISTEN TO OUR PODCASTS.
I’M PARIS ALSTON,

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