

Episode 1
10/25/2021 | 44m 42sVideo has Closed Captions
From Segedunum in the east, Robson sets off on his 84-mile journey along Hadrian’s Wall.
From Segedunum in the east, Robson sets off on his 84-mile journey along Hadrian’s Wall. He discovers the boyish thrill of geocaching; sees how some locals repurposed the wall for their own needs; and takes a dip in the River Tyne.
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Walking Hadrian's Wall with Robson Green is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Episode 1
10/25/2021 | 44m 42sVideo has Closed Captions
From Segedunum in the east, Robson sets off on his 84-mile journey along Hadrian’s Wall. He discovers the boyish thrill of geocaching; sees how some locals repurposed the wall for their own needs; and takes a dip in the River Tyne.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
How to Watch Walking Hadrian's Wall with Robson Green
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(lively music) (Robson) Stretching over 80 miles, running through hills, dales, rivers and mountains Hadrian's Wall is a wonder of the ancient world.
You get an idea of the sheer size and scale of this gargantuan achievement.
It signaled the edge of one of the greatest empires the world has ever known.
(climber) Here we've got the second in command of a Roman century of 80 men.
(Robson) Armed with my trusty walking boots I'm going to travel along the entire length of this iconic monument.
This section here is known as the heart of Hadrian's Wall.
Through rain.
Absolutely chucking it down.
And shine.
If someone painted that view and showed you it you wouldn't believe them.
I learn the secrets of the Roman Empire.
(tour guide) If you needed a number two this is where you came.
(Robson) To the best kept secrets of the Great British countryside.
Wow.
Woohooo!
Meeting many folk along the way.
-Keep up, Robson.
-Sorry, mate.
That's amazing!
It will be an epic journey to take your breath away.
Oh wow.
I'm not a religious person but there is something spiritual about this part of the world.
So pack your corn clusters, fill your thermos and join me for the walk of a lifetime.
The Romans, they gave us it all.
♪ (orchestral music) ♪ I'm beginning my epic journey in the northeast of England.
Born and bred a Northumberland lad, this is literally my favorite place in the world.
♪ I mean... just look at it.
♪ The northeast, like the River Tyne, runs through my veins and I'm very proud still to call it home.
It's had so many stories to tell in its past.
And there is one world famous tale about a world famous creation that never ceases to amazing me.
No, it's not Gaza.
It is of course Hadrian's Wall.
♪ One of the greatest feats in construction history.
For me, this wonder wall is up there with the great pyramids and the Panama Canal.
Almost 2,000 years old, the wall is one of Britain's most awe-inspiring historic landmarks and remains a lasting testament to the skill and ambition of the Roman Empire.
♪ I was never a fan of history at school but my lovely English teacher reminded me of the importance of telling stories because that's all history is.
It's stories from the past.
I couldn't think of anything better than traveling along Hadrian's Wall set against the backdrop of some of the most beautiful countryside on the planet.
Mind you, it's easier said than done.
Eighty-four miles.
That's over three marathons.
And I ain't getting any younger.
So I've got a feeling it's not going to be easy.
But when is anything worthwhile ever been easy?
Just ask the Romans.
My adventure starts at the most easterly end of the wall, or Wallsend as it's known around these parts.
Here lies Segedunum, meaning "Strong Fort."
Believe it or not, it's an area I know pretty well.
In the '80s, I lived over there for five years.
I was a draftsman for Swan Hunters Ship Builders.
I was part of the design team.
I mean, this was a hive of activity.
It used to employ 25,000 men and women.
During my time over there there was a bit of a commotion going on over here.
So one day, I wandered over to see what all the fuss was about.
And what they discovered was one of the most famous frontiers in the entire Roman Empire.
Built as a bastion against barbarian attack, Segedunum stood for almost 300 years as a symbol for Roman rule.
And little did I know, I'd be back here 34 years later to begin my journey along the wall.
(guitar music) So come on.
Time to pack.
Tent.
Sleeping bag.
Flask, check.
Tea, check.
Right.
Just one more thing to do before I set off.
And then we're away.
♪ So to prove to the world and myself that I have completed the Hadrian's Wall journey, I have a Hadrian's Wall Passport.
And it needs stamping at this stamping station at Segedunum.
So this is the stamping box right here.
-Oh, hello, lads.
-Hey, how you doing?
-You starting off as well?
-No, we're just finishing.
(Robson) Oh seriously?
You just finished?
-How was it?
-Awesome, absolutely awesome.
(hiker #1) Yeah, it really was but it was hard work.
(Robson) Right, well, you just finished and I'm about to start.
So let's get the passport stamp.
These guys did it in six days.
I'm not sure I can match that.
But I'll give it a good go.
-Thank you.
-It was lovely to meet yah.
-And you.
-...see you some sunny day.
-Good luck.
-Take care.
(Robson) Luck, I need all the luck I need.
I don't even know if I'm going in the right direction.
-Yeah you are.
-I've done a calculation.
Over 88,000 paces to go.
Just put one foot in front of the other and start working.
(hiker #1) When you think you can't do anymore, do another one.
(Robson) I'll be traveling from east to west collecting my passport stamps as I go and I'll end my journey, I hope at Bowness-on-Solway.
(orchestral music) On the first leg of my expedition I'm heading to my hometown of Hexham.
Time to leave behind the city of Newcastle.
And with any luck leave these roads and make my way out into the beautiful countryside.
♪ Every year around 100,000 people visit Hadrian's Wall.
♪ And completing the journey along the length of it is on many hikers Bucket List.
Whereas, it's on my Just Hope I Can Survive This list.
Hopefully, bits of bands with other walkers will help keep the old spirit up.
(hiker #2) The other half of the farm is right up north.
That's where you get depressed sheep, up north.
(laughing) Those up north attack you for entertainment.
Here they welcome you.
(Robson) Now many walkers aren't from around these parts so the local accent can be a tad challenging.
(hiker #3) Someone walked past me the other day and said something and I just laughed cause I wasn't sure what language -they were talking.
-The Northumbrian accent is very like this, you know.
Talk like that, me father.
Me father used to talk like that.
You see, me dad if I wore aftershave, me dad would go, "That's a nice perfume you got on there."
And to me father went, "Dad, I don't know what you're saying and you're my Dad."
Since leaving Wallsend I haven't seen much wall which is no surprise.
Since it was built, less than ten percent of it remains in place.
Now where the heck it's gone, I have no idea.
However, stick with me as I'm going to make sure I find out.
(guitar music) (lively music) I'm on an epic adventure along the illustrious Hadrian's Wall.
Day One, Robson's Log.
After starting in Wallsend I've traveled 17 miles.
Wall witness so far, hardly a blumming brick, to be honest.
♪ But it's been a pretty trek nonetheless and I'm about to be rewarded with a whopping bit of wall.
♪ Woo.
There you go, that's more like it.
This is Heddon-on-the-Wall wall.
This is the longest unbroken section of Hadrian's Wall that sat at its original width.
The amount of material that's required to build a wall that's ten foot wide, fifteen foot high and 80-odd miles long, the material has to be staggering.
I mean, it's mind boggling.
It took 15,000 soldiers six years to build.
So not only was the Roman Army a formidable fighting force, they were highly skilled craftsmen specializing in masonry, engineering, architecture.
♪ Now like more people, I've always thought the Romans built the wall to stop the barbaric Scots from attacking.
But I've heard there are those who reckon the wall was created for economic reasons.
Believing that the small forts along the wall, known as milecastles, acted as customs posts.
♪ Alex, how are you?
It's a theory that's supported by local tour guide, Alex.
In my opinion, I think Hadrian was a narcissist.
I personally think he built this wall solely to put the fear of God into the people who surrounded it and lived alongside of it.
I think it was pure psychological warfare and I think it scared people for 300 years.
(Alex) The wall is here, it's to control the area and the economics can actually be seen in the wall itself.
In some milecastles only have eight guys stationed there.
Some have 32.
So the ones with 32 are trading posts.
When the natives are coming through the wall, what you're wanting to do is you're wanting to tax them.
(Robson) What sort of things would they be bringing through?
(Alex) So we're likely seeing lots of foodstuffs and we are seeing lots of cattle.
And we know in the post-Roman period the economy of Northern Britain is entirely based on cattle.
We'd lose a coin-based economy and it becomes a cattle-based economy.
(Robson) And all these things you're saying would be taxed?
(Alex) Yeah, there's evidence to suggest a 25 percent tax.
-Really?
-Things coming through the wall, -yeah.
-Nothing's changed, Alex.
So if I had four cows and I was traveling south and by the time I'd past the wall I'd only have three.
-Yeah.
-Really?
-Yeah.
-Love your knowledge, you're lovely to be alongside.
Take care, I've got about 84,000 paces to go -before I get to-- -84,000?
(Robson) Yeah, before I get to my destination.
If Alex is right then that challenges everything we think we know about the wall.
Now I know I'm no scholar or anything but I still think it was a big ol' vanity vehicle for Hadrian, I mean, talk about overcompensating.
Come on.
I think it's time for a nice long soak.
Sadly, I don't have a shower.
Certainly don't have a hot tub.
But what I do have is Northumberland's largest bath.
Considered the best salmon river in England the beautiful River Tyne has always played an important role in my past.
You know, Mom and Dad used to bring us here so many times as a family.
It's where me and me brother were taught to swim.
My dad had a really interesting method.
He'd just throw us both in and it was either sink or swim.
And I'll tell you what, slight hypothermic shock really focuses the mind.
Me and me brother used to come out the water like Polaris missiles, like motorboats.
I'll tell you, it was a method that worked.
Oh, seeing the dust come off my sock.
I still go for a spot of cold water swimming in the Tyne.
But be warmed, it's not for the faint hearted.
I don't even know what to say.
That's the British and all that.
(lively music) ♪ Woo!
♪ Woo!
I'll tell you what... this is just what you need after a long, hot day.
It's a well-known fact, doing something like this reduces stress.
Do you know, a lot of people keep asking me "Why'd you live up north?
What is it about Northumberland?"
(upbeat music) ♪ Take a wild guess.
♪ And I'll give you a clue it's not me in me pants.
Woo!
♪ The next morning, I'm up and at 'em early as I hurdle ten miles along the wall and let me tell you, it was quite a journey.
Oh, hello.
First off, I bumped into a couple of Kiwi walkers who were clearly big fans.
I'm Robson, by the way, Robson Green.
-Of course.
-How you doing?
-I'm sorry I'm none the wiser.
-How rude.
I then fell in line with some local soldiers who were out training.
-Keep up, Robson.
-Sorry, Matt, sorry.
Unfortunately, they couldn't quite keep up with my pace so I ditched them.
Oh, stop running Robson, just amble.
Can't feel my legs.
Feet fatigued, I hopped on a bike to speed things along.
Impressing the locals with my cycling skills.
Jerry, buckle up.
I'm about to hit warp speed.
Saddle sore, I sacked off the bike and back to the hike.
The crew were delighted but sadly not everyone was pleased to see me.
Steady, I come in peace.
I come in peace.
Steady.
Dogs don't like me.
I think it's seen some of my shows.
And that's brought you up to speed.
Shall we proceed?
(orchestral music) Back when the wall was built Romans would navigate using the lay of the land and nature.
♪ Simple things like moss could help guide them and as it grows where the sun doesn't shine.
So in the northern hemisphere moss lives on the north side of trees revealing which was is north and which is south.
Of course, nowadays navigation has moved on somewhat.
And I've heard some people use GPS to hunt for treasure along the wall.
♪ -Paul.
-Robson, how are you doing?
(Robson) I'm fine, how are you doing on this overcast day?
-How are you enjoying your walk?
-Oh, you know.
Fair to miserable-- no it's fine, it's gorgeous.
-Excellent.
-So Paul, are you going to help me find buried treasure so I can be rich beyond my wildest dreams?
(Paul) I'll certainly try and help you find the buried treasure but being rich is another matter.
(Robson) So geocaching, you're going to have to excuse my ignorance.
Never heard of it, don't know what it is.
(Paul) It originated in the states about twenty years ago in 2000.
-Really?
-Yeah, yeah.
Where a guy decided, well GPS is becoming popular these days, let's see, let's test them.
So it was a throwaway container with a few sort of trinkets in, give out the coordinates for it, grid reference and people started finding it.
To get to the actual geocache we're going to use an app.
-So do I just tap on it?
-So we'll tap on -the geocaching app.
-Yup.
What, are they all geocaches?
All those little dots?
Wow, there's thousands of them.
(Paul) There's absolutely millions worldwide.
So as luck would have it, there's one very close to us.
-Certainly is.
-Wouldn't see it it's besides the church so if we just turn around, we know the church is right behind us.
That arrow should be pointing in the direction we need to go -and let's just head off.
-Come on.
(Paul) It tells us that it's 113 meters.
This app will always get you to within a few meters of it.
You then have to do a little bit of work.
(Robson) Just a little bit of detective work?
I've played many of detective in my time.
Oh yes, I'm playing Geordie Keaton in Grantchester.
I played Creegan in Touching Evil.
I was a forensic detective in Wire in the Blood.
So this should be--this should be a cinch.
(Paul) As you can see, we're closing in on it.
(Robson) It's just like an Easter egg hunt.
-It is, exactly.
-Just another version of it.
(Paul) So we're now looking for something out of place.
(Robson) Well, there's a huge rock there, I mean that's gonna-- (Paul) Potentially the kind of thing we're looking for.
-Yes!
That's it.
-Wow, well done.
-Your very fist geocache.
-That's amazing.
It just brings the kid of out you, doesn't it.
What we got here?
There is money in it.
Is this a Roman silver coin?
Well, that's an old French Franc cause it's Euros now.
Here was me hoping for Roman coins and ancient trinkets.
I feel a little foolish.
So what else we got in here?
(Paul) Somewhere there should be something -you can sign and date.
-Really?
Well, what do you know.
Oh, I see, oh people who found it, they sign it and they date it.
I love it.
Imogen's been here, Jess has been here and Hopper's been here, Hopper's found it.
Well that's great.
Robson was here, 8, 20.
(Paul) So that's everything put back in there and we'll put it back ready for the next people.
(Robson) Well, let's be honest, it's not what you call a treasure, is it Paul?
-It's not treasure.
-No, economically -it's not life changing, is it?
-In monetary terms -it's not treasure.
-Okay, let's see what the next one brings.
(Paul) We'll find another one.
(Robson) Trying to get my bearings here.
It's moving from left to right.
(Paul) We've got an extra clue on this one.
We've got a hint.
So if we click on hint and the hint here is that the cache is wedged between an ash tree and a hawthorn.
(Robson) Ah, I know--I know what an ash tree looks like -and a hawthorn.
-Good man.
(suspenseful music) ♪ (Robson) We're getting warm, Paul, we're getting warm.
(Paul) Yup.
(Robson) We're on a treasure hunt.
How you going?
I'm traveling along Hadrian's Wall.
(hiker #4) Yeah, we're going the other way.
(Robson) Have you heard about this thing called geocaching?
-Oh, yes!
-Oh, mate, isn't it great?
I love it, yeah!
Paul's just introduced me to it.
-We've just found 100 quid.
-Yeah right.
(laughing) (Robson) I wish!
No we found a note with loads of names on it.
But Paul promises me the next treasure we find is going to be of more value.
Lovely to meet you, take care.
Bye-bye.
Bye.
♪ -We're very close.
-Less than 50 meters.
(Robson) All right, well that's a giant ash there.
It says it's jammed in between the two.
(Paul) Jammed in between the two.
(Robson) Oh hello, is it the stones there?
(Paul) There's one or two stones, yup.
-Yes!
Ah-ha-ha!
-Well done.
Second one of the day.
(Robson) Let me have a look.
Ah, the book with peoples names in.
Somebody called Blue Flash has been here.
So this was all filled in years ago.
-I love it.
-It's good fun.
-Good stuff, Paul.
-You're very welcome.
(Robson) Put it back for 'em.
-Ah, I love it, Paul.
-Great.
(Robson) I'm in, hook line and sinker.
(Paul) Good man, I knew you were going to enjoy it.
-I am now a geocacher.
-Indeed you are.
(Robson) It's been a hell of a day.
I reckon a wee tea time treat is in order.
And I know the perfect picnic spot.
Let's just hope I can find it.
(lively music) ♪ It's like being in the movie The Fog.
I'm ascending into the abyss never to been seen again.
Oh great.
It started raining as well.
God.
♪ Do you know what it is?
I think Northumberland's got its own microclimate.
Honest.
There were views this morning as far as the eye could see.
Now you can't see 40 feet in front of you.
Just fog.
Now you're going to have to trust me when I say there are, usually, views to die for here.
♪ Mind you, ugh, did I take a wrong turning somewhere and end up in Norway?
I've packed myself a ham sandwich.
I just need to add something to it.
When you've got something like this you have to have Northumberland's equivalent to hummus.
Pease pudding.
Or as my Mom and Dad always correct me, "It's pease pudding Robson, it's pease pudding.
What's happened to your accent, man?
It's pease pudding man, put it on your plate, put some butter on and then put your pease pudding on, you daft knocker."
I loved my Dad, really did.
Lots of chickpeas boiled in ham stock but this stuff, I assure you is stunning.
Mm.
Tell you... My Mom and Dad used to say when they give me this, "It's like eating Christmas."
It really is.
(cars humming) I came here for peace and quiet.
It's like being at Piccadilly Circus.
In the fog.
Where am I?
I came here to celebrate the views of Northumberland.
I can't even see a thing.
Mm.
Used to do this loads with Mom and Dad and my brother and my sisters.
Topics of conversation were never stressful.
It was never about work or money worries.
(uplifting music) ♪ Ooh.
Oh, that will keep me going for another few hours.
Ham and pease pudding.
You can't beat it.
Well you can actually.
Eton Mes is nice, like the white meringues.
(guitar music) (orchestral music) I'm taking a trip along Hadrian's Wall.
A mission I've been meaning to make for years and I'm not the only one.
Visitors from all over the world come to soak up the wall's historic mystique.
Back in the early '80s a chance visit to the wall inspired author J.R.R Martin to write Game of Thrones.
So who knows what the wall will inspire me to do.
♪ Since leaving Segedunum I've journeyed 21 miles.
I've walked, swam, ran and cycled.
And now en route to an old Roman garrison town.
History is everywhere in the villages and towns around here.
And especially at the place I'm heading for now, Corbridge.
Not so long ago there was something discovered there that was a real game changer.
♪ Half a mile west of the beautiful village of Corbridge lies Corbridge Roman town.
Dating back to AD 79, it was also known as the Roman settlement of Corstopitum.
Local tour guide Paul is an expert on this amazing ancient site.
♪ Go on then, Paul.
Paint me a picture of what life was like nearly 2,000 years ago in this center of Corbridge.
(tour guide Paul) This, what you're seeing here, is the bustle, hustle of the town really.
It was a cosmopolitan town in that particular period and there's lots of shops and farers businesses all over the place and this would've been teeming with people.
What's interesting is that before the town was built in 160, the road heading out to Edinburgh used to miss the town out or the forts out.
You'd go straight up.
About 160, 170, when this became a town where it was a commercial operation that road was rerouted through the middle of the town.
So they wanted the travelers to make sure they came through these commercial units -to buy their goods.
-It's a bit like the airports today, isn't it?
They're forcing you through there for the duty-free stuff on there.
(tour guide Paul) Yeah when you go through the duty-free, it was a good, good way of describing it actually.
That's exactly what they're doing.
They're sending it down this, through this route because then you could see the goods and the wares.
These are Roman military granaries.
This is where the food stores would be.
So these are some of the best preserved in the world because the fact that you can see a lot of the stone flooring.
If you look you see you got the aeration holes underneath so this is where the air comes through.
You can see some holes through the sides of the wall there.
So the air comes through and then under the floor.
So that's to keep the foodstuffs dry.
Because if it's on the floor it's going to get pretty damp.
(Robson) So here I am, 2,000 years ago I come shopping in Corbridge.
I've got my bag of grain and I'm after some fruit and some veg, a bit of meat, fancy a bit of beef and chicken, maybe a duck.
-Would that all have been here?
-Absolutely and more besides, there would be all sorts, there would be pottery, herbs, spices, beer, there would be taverns.
Imagine this in the middle of the day.
You know, there would be shops and wares that would be selling their goods.
There would be shouting.
There would be people milling around, buying things.
It's just another version of you and I walking down -Eldon Square in Newcastle.
-It is, it's a shopping center.
So these are shops all the way along here.
Some of them selling foodstuffs.
Some of them selling cloth and materials.
I heard a vicious rumor that carrots came from the Romans.
-I don't believe it.
-Well, they were introduced -to Britain by the Romans.
-They were?
(tour guide Paul) Absolutely, they were not here.
They introduced rabbits which is quite commonly known as well.
(Robson) Was it a place of rest and relaxation?
-Yeah, there's--well-- -People come here to let -their hair down?
-So Roman soldiers, we don't think got regular leave but they could apply for leave.
But they'd be coming through here quite often.
They would be quite keen to come here.
(Robson) I'm sure they were because they weren't allowed to marry, were they, so they would've come here for not only, you know, a few carrots and a few apples and oranges but something else.
-I'm not going to say anymore.
-There's places of ill repute, -here you're absolutely right.
-There was?
Sorry, there was?
(laughing) So basically, in the daytime it's like Newcastle is.
You know, but it's like the Big Market in Newcastle -in the evening.
-Absolutely.
Even in the daytime it could be quite noisy and raucous.
-Were they gambling and stuff?
-Yeah, a lot of gambling.
They didn't play cards, cards didn't really exist in Roman times it was more dice and board games.
Quite elaborate but they would bet on this, possibly sometimes here boxing and wrestling matches -which would be bet on as well.
-And it was the Roman equivalent of Las Vegas, I guess it is.
With the boxing and the gambling -that still goes on there today.
-Yeah, absolutely.
(lively music) (Robson) And talking of striking it lucky, back in the 1960s and '70s, this site was an archeological training location for students at Doraemon Newcastle University.
Every summer trainee archeologist would come here to dig and in 1964 one student hit the jackpot.
Making an amazing discovery.
A well preserved leather and metal clad wooden box full of every day Roman artifacts.
(tour guide Paul) The most important thing, that really from an historical point of view is this segmented armor that you can see here.
So that's the old rusty of theirs what they found in the box.
And on the left-hand-side you can see the reconstruction.
That's massively important because prior to this being discovered in 1964, historians knew that this type of armor existed but they didn't know specifically what it looked like, how it was made, how it was held together, how it was worn.
By finding these six elements that they have here they can now accurately reconstruction that and when you see modern legionary armor in modern films today like Gladiator or many other modern films then it would've been based on this find.
Without this find being here -they would've been guessing.
-I mean, just looking at it it's such an eclectic mix of things.
You know, you think if it belonged to a soldier, yes you've got the armaments then, you've the weaponry here.
But it looks like there's kind of practical digging tools here and there's a container for carrying water.
(tour guide Paul) When you say carrying water, that was probably a beer tanker.
It looks rather big.
But actually beer tankers were in fact, some of the beer tankers were collective.
All the men would drink out of one big cup.
This man was either a soldier or a skilled craftsman attached to the army.
He's left this behind.
Which at that time would be really unusual.
He's had to do it for a particular reason.
Either because it was too difficulty to carry and he never came back or there was an impending attack and he was worried about the security of it.
Of course, he may well have been killed.
We'll never know but... this person, this was his life in a box.
Most hoards are quite glamourous things like big pile of coins and to have this sort of stuff particularly is incredible rare and the person, this trainee archeologist who found this, -this is the find of a lifetime.
-See now you've given me an idea, you know, doing this journey I think I might burry my own time capsule.
-Well, why not?
-Hoping, you know, if someone maybe in 2,000 years time might find it.
(tour guide Paul) Absolutely and then it could be in a case in a museum "I wonder who put those items in that box and why--" (Robson) Robson Green, it was me.
♪ In order to pick up some treasures to put in my time capsule I popped along to modern day Corbridge.
(orchestral music) ♪ And while I'm mooching around the shops I make my own amazing discovery.
How you doing?
You haven't changed a bit.
My very dear old work colleague, Ray.
(Ray) Please, take my advice.
(laughing) (Robson) Yeah it kind of worked out okay.
How you doing?
-Fine, fine.
-My god, Ray.
So we worked in the drawing office, what-- -from '82 to '86 was it?
-I can't even remember now.
(Robson) Oh, I can.
(laughing) My goodness, how you've been?
(Ray) Well, the daughter said, "Hey, there's Robson Green."
Because she worked in the Swans as well.
(Robson) I'm traveling along the full length of Hadrian's Wall and we started at Segedunum.
Do you remember when they were unearthing that when we were in the shipyard remember and all the fuss was going on?
My god, it's so good to see you, man.
It's so good to see you.
(Ray) A peaceful walk in the world.
(laughing) (Robson) Yeah, I remember you used to say, you know, ship building's a job for life.
Poor dear me, what happened to the shipyard, ey?
-It's a car park, ain't it?
-Yeah, yeah.
-Where have all those men gone?
-I know but the skills are still there and I think, you know, it'll come back.
It will come back and see there's fabrication going on further down the Tyne so there's always hope, isn't there?
Yeah, soon after I left the shipyard closed, didn't it?
-Yeah, yeah.
-Well, you know, if this all falls apart, this game, I'll be back--I'll be back being a navel architect definitely.
-It was lovely seeing you.
-You too, good to see you, Ray.
Oh my god.
He was lovely.
He was my man.
That's Ray.
I worked with him in '82 to '86.
He was such a lovely man.
And he was very, very kind to me in the shipyard and when I said I wanted to be an actor he said, "Just do what makes you happy, Robson."
Oh, that really got me.
(waves crashing) Well, I really wasn't expecting that.
This journey really is becoming an experience that's good for the soul.
And the old calf muscles.
(uplifting music) ♪ As you travel around this area you soon realize that 95 percent of Hadrian's Wall has disappeared, or has it.
It's just been moved elsewhere.
All you have to do is look for it.
And there are clues to finding where it's hiding like this beautiful Northumbrian village which is simply called Wall.
A conservation area and a place of special historic interest, Wall is home to 320 residents including Gary.
Who has a real passion for both this Wall and the wall.
Which particular buildings within the village of Wall -are from Hadrian's Wall?
-This is all Hadrian's Wall.
-Every which way you look.
-Really?
(Gary) Yeah, this is the wall recycled.
(Robson) So how did it all happen?
How did it all start?
(Gary) There was a general called General Wade back in the 18th century.
He then was the guy responsible for the government forces who then had to take on the Jacobites.
They'd come up to Newcastle expecting to see them there but they were on the other side of the country.
They were over at Carlisle and they held Carlisle Castle.
So they've got to drag all that canon and everything else across the country.
And believe it or not in 1745 there wasn't a proper road between Newcastle and Carlisle.
So General Wade goes, "We need a road here we need a road."
(Robson) So obviously, General Wade needed material -to build his road.
-And that's it.
Some bright spark says, "Well, hang on a minute.
You know that old wall that the Romans had?
Why don't we just pull that over, create a track bed for a road?"
But then at that time other people are going, "Hang on a minute, there's a lot more you can do than build a road.
I can build a house with that."
And so that's it, people then start going to help themselves to bits of stone from the wall and hence, you get this.
(upbeat music) (Robson) So literally, every building in the village of Wall is made from Hadrian's Wall?
-Yes.
-Don't tell me that wall there of wall is made from Hadrian's Wall.
(Gary) That wall, that dry stone wall is made of Hadrian's Wall.
You could easily find the telltale signs because those nice square stones that you would see on the outside of the wall are stones like this.
Look how that's squared off.
So yes, people have utilized every little bit they can find.
(Robson) How on earth did they get it here, Gary?
Horse and cart?
(Gary) I think you can take it that they were just a lot tougher in those days.
♪ Look at this wall here, come on, come on look.
Look at those lovely square stones.
(Robson) And all this here.
That's obviously Hadrian's Wall.
(Gary) Yeah, a nice bit of wall there.
♪ (Robson) Desperate to get a sneaky peak inside one of Wall's wall-made houses, Gary lets me has a wee gander inside his.
This is it, this is just one of many time capsules in Northumberland, I mean, straight away, you can see that stone lintel in the fireplace.
That's definitely from Hadrian's Wall.
And then that's Hadrian's Wall underneath there.
And they say at one time, Hadrian's Wall was whitewashed.
So you could see it from miles around.
So everything in here is nearly 2,000 years old.
And if it's looked after and taken care of it will probably last another 2,000 years.
While Wall might not have the most original name, it's certainly a canny looking little village.
(guitar music) (orchestral music) So far, I'm surviving my epic jaunt along Hadrian's Wall.
♪ Been walking for about an hour.
There's not another soul in sight.
Just when I thought the views of Northumberland couldn't get any better.
Will you just look at that.
A walk like this with a backdrop like that.
It really is difficult to be unhappy.
♪ I'm so blessed.
I do love this place.
Having tackled the hills and dales in sunshine and of course rain, I'm coming to the end of the first leg of my Hadrian's Wall adventure.
♪ From my start point in Segedunum at Wallsend I clocked up 35 miles to reach my birthplace, Hexham, where I still live today.
And this historic town has quite a past.
♪ You know, it wasn't so long ago that the Scots came here and burnt this place to the ground.
And a while back, the third Duke of Somerset, he was publically executed in the market place just up the way.
Thankfully these days the gallows have been replaced with a farmer's market and I'm going to stock up on a few provisions for the next leg of my journey.
I'm camping along the wall, alongside the wall.
-What would you recommend?
-To cook on a stove I would recommend pork and apple burgers every time.
They're nice and flat so you're gonna cook through.
-And can I nab a few sausages?
-Of course you can.
(Robson) Succulent sausages.
Did you know that the Romans brought carrots -to this country?
-Did they?
(Robson) They did and did you know they brought apples as well?
Do you know what, I'll have a couple of sticks of rhubarb.
You know, I used to do this as a kid.
You just cut the ends and dip it in sugar.
I used to be bouncing off the ceiling.
Nice selection of pies you got here.
I'm torn between the beef and Guinness and the chili beef.
If you had to choose between those two which one would you have?
Do you know what, I'm going to have the beef and Guinness.
-Thank you very much.
-I said that without movement.
-Muckle Brewing.
-Muckle is a Northumbrian -dialect but mighty.
-For big and strong.
My dad used to say, pass me that muckle hammer there, that muckle hammer.
I'm going to take your steer on this.
Tell me your favorite and I shall buy it.
My husband, who brews, will tell you the last one he drank was his favorite, however, I know that both of our favorite is this one, Pride of Park pale ale.
-Sold.
-This is the actual wall with part of sycamore gap and representation of the wall going down there.
(Robson) This is a spatula of Hadrian's Wall?
And it has my favorite place, I've got to have that.
That is going to be one of the best souvenirs on my journey, isn't that lovely.
This is my traveling along the wall.
(merchant) Especially exhausting that one over there.
(orchestral music) (Robson) As I'm at my hometown it seems a fitting place to burry my wall adventure time capsule.
♪ Cross the babbling brook.
Yeah, this looks a good spot.
All right.
Let's see what gems I've brought.
Oh-ho.
Just wait till somebody finds this lot, hey.
Let's have a look at this.
This lovely Hadrian's Wall walk fridge magnet.
Well, I like it and there's a little tile here with the Latin "Carpe Diem."
Which means, cease the carpe.
And uh, a postcard of the Roman equivalent of Las Vegas.
All right, let me have a think.
♪ (mumbling) ♪ Perfect.
Right, so... just wrote a little ditty on the back of the Corbridge postcard.
"There was a young actor called Robson who was told your next jobson is to walk Hadrian's Wall, I hope you don't fall.
It will be a success and with knobs on."
Hey, now I know you're thinking, "Oh yeah, not very valuable though is it?"
Yeah, but if you add 20 big ones on top of that.
Oh yeah, now you're interested aren't yah?
Oh-ho-ho, yeah.
Just under there.
Capsule carefully hidden away.
Hopefully it will be discovered hundreds of years from now.
So no go hunting for it, you lot.
They love that.
Twenty big ones, oo!
To celebrate successfully completing the first leg of my Hadrian's Wall adventure, my weary wee feet are taking a final few paces to the pub just outside Hexham for a well deserved pint.
♪ Can I buy you a drink?
(woman) Well, I think we should offer you one, Robson.
(Robson) No, I've given up on all wines, beers and spirits sadly.
Yeah but I'll have a cherry, hey!
No, no I've given up on drinking.
It's been the worst ten minutes of my life.
Come on, I'm here all week.
I need the money.
Lovely to meet you.
Forgive the bad dad gags it's just 'cause I'm knackered.
Honest.
♪ Look at that.
What more do you want?
Beautiful view, pint.
Next to this lovely pub.
What a first few days it's been.
History everywhere.
Literally everywhere.
I thought I knew everything there was to know about Northumberland.
How wrong I was.
And luckily there's more to come.
♪ Next time, I'll be trying to stay on two feet.
(laughing) ♪ -You all right Robs?
-Stop laughing.
And I make my very own discovery.
And I think I found something.
It feels like metal.
(upbeat music) ♪
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