Announcer: AMERICAN PUBLIC TELEVISION PRESENTS THE SPLENDORS OF THE WORLD IN THE LIFE-LIKE REALITY OF HIGH DEFINITION TELEVISION.

A PERFECT SLICE OF FRANCE, THIS REGION COUPLES SOME OF THE WORLD'S FINEST WINE WITH ROMANTIC RIVERS, MEDIEVAL VILLAGES, PREHISTORIC CAVES, CLIFF-TOP CASTLES, AND SOME OF THE MOST DELECTABLE CUISINE ANYWHERE.

NEXT UP, BORDEAUX AND THE DORDOGNE ON "SMART TRAVELS."

Announcer: MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS" IS PROVIDED BY EXPEDIA.COM, A TRAVEL WEB SITE THAT OFFERS TRAVELERS A VARIETY OF WAYS TO CREATE THE TRIP THEY'RE LOOKING FOR, INCLUDING FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES.

EXPEDIA.COM.

DON'T JUST TRAVEL.

TRAVEL RIGHT.

CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION "SMART TRAVELS" IS A GRAND TOUR OF THE OLD WORLD-- THE PEOPLE, PLACES, SIGHTS, AND DISTINCTLY EUROPEAN FLAVORS.

OUR HOST IS TRAVEL WRITER AND COLUMNIST RUDY MAXA, PUBLIC RADIO'S ORIGINAL SAVVY TRAVELER.

NOW, TIPS, TRIPS, AND SECRET PLACES ON "SMART TRAVELS."

Maxa: FOR CENTURIES, FRANCE AND ENGLAND BATTLED FIERCELY OVER THIS PRIME PIECE OF REAL ESTATE.

AND SMALL WONDER.

FROM ITS FIELDS AND FORESTS COME MUSHROOMS, TRUFFLES, FOIE GRAS, AND, OF COURSE, ITS CELEBRATED BORDEAUX WINES.

SCORES OF CASTLES RISE OUT OF THE COUNTRYSIDE.

PERFECTLY PRESERVED VILLAGES SIT ATOP BLUFFS ALONG ENCHANTING RIVERS.

AND DEEP IN THE LIMESTONE CLIFFS, ARE THE ARTISTIC TREASURES OF PREHISTORIC MAN.

THE RIVERS DORDOGNE AND LOT ARE NO SECRET IN FRANCE...

BUT THEIR MAGIC IS ONLY JUST BEING DISCOVERED BY OUTSIDERS.

WE'LL WIND OUR WAY ALONG TWO PRINCIPAL RIVERS-- THE DORDOGNE AND LOT-- TAKING IN CASTLES, CAVES AND VILLAGES, AND THE FAMOUS CUISINE.

THEN WE'LL HEAD FOR BORDEAUX AND WINE COUNTRY.

THE DORDOGNE AND LOT RIVERS OFFER THE QUINTESSENTIAL FRENCH EXPERIENCE.

HERE, YOU CAN STAY IN A CASTLE, PADDLE A CANOE DOWN QUIET RIVERS, OR EXPERIENCE THE BEST IN FRENCH CUISINE.

THIS IS A PLACE TO SAVOR SLOWLY; A PLACE TO SOOTHE THE SOUL.

THE DORDOGNE IS THE LONGEST FRENCH RIVER, FLOWING FROM THE CENTRAL PLATEAU TO THE ATLANTIC OCEAN.

SOME OF FRANCE'S MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES AND CASTLES CLING TO ITS SHORES.

THE LOT AND CELE RIVERS, JUST SOUTH OF THE DORDOGNE, WIND THROUGH LIMESTONE CLIFFS, BEFORE LEVELING OFF TOWARD THE SEA.

THE AREA IS LESS WELL KNOWN THAN THE DORDOGNE, MORE SECRETIVE AND SECLUDED.

THIS PEACEFUL REGION ECHOES WITH A LONG, TURBULENT HISTORY.

THE VAST NUMBER OF CASTLES AND FORTIFIED TOWNS DATE MAINLY FROM THE 14th CENTURY, THE PERIOD OF THE HUNDRED YEARS WAR BETWEEN FRANCE AND ENGLAND.

THE ENGLISH CLAIMED FRENCH LAND BECAUSE OF MARRIAGES AND INHERITANCE RIGHTS THAT DATED BACK TO THE NORMAN CONQUEST OF ENGLAND IN 1066.

THE TOWN OF DOMME, HIGH ON ITS PERCH ABOVE THE RIVER, IS A FORTIFIED TOWN, KNOWN AS A BASTIDE.

DURING THE HUNDRED YEARS WAR, BOTH THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH BUILT BASTIDE TOWNS TO DEFEND THEIR CLAIMS ON THE REGION.

IN ORDER TO LURE RESIDENTS TO BUILD AND DEFEND THESE STRONGHOLDS, THE REIGNING NOBILITY PROMISED FREEDOM FROM MILITARY SERVICE, LAND OUTSIDE THE WALLS TO FARM, AND THE RIGHT TO SELL PRODUCE AT THE LOCAL MARKET.

THE STREETS OF DORDOGNE TOWNS ARE FILLED WITH SHOPS SELLING THE LOCAL DELICACY, FOIE GRAS; GOOSE OR DUCK LIVER PATE-- A SPECIALTY THAT DATES BACK TO THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS.

THE MEDIEVAL TOWN OF SARLAT, WITH ITS GOLDEN SANDSTONE BUILDINGS, SERVES FREQUENTLY AS THE SET FOR HISTORICAL MOVIES, AND IT'S EASY TO SEE WHY.

EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY OF THIS TOWN IS PICTURESQUE.

HERE, TOO, SHOPS SELLING REGIONAL SPECIALTIES-- SUCH AS FOIE GRAS AND TRUFFLES--ABOUND.

PERIGORD IS ONE OF THE FEW REGIONS IN THE WORLD WHERE THE ELUSIVE TRUFFLE CAN BE FOUND.

TRUFFLES ARE OFTEN CALLED BLACK GOLD FOR A REASON.

THEY COST MORE PER OUNCE THAN GOLD DOES.

SARLAT WAS VIRTUALLY DESTROYED IN THE HUNDRED YEARS WAR, BUT IT WAS REBUILT IN THE 15th CENTURY AND BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED IN THE 1960s.

THE DAY I VISITED, THE STREETS SANG WITH THE MUSIC OF PARIS-LONDRES, A DUO WHO MOVED TO SARLAT FROM PARIS AND FELL IN LOVE WITH THE DORDOGNE REGION.

[PLAYING UPBEAT TUNE] [APPLAUSE] THE ABUNDANCE OF FRESH INGREDIENTS IN PERIGORD CREATES ITS WORLD-FAMOUS CUISINE.

ONE FUN WAY TO SEE THE REGION AND LEARN ABOUT THE FOOD IS TO ENROLL IN A COOKING SCHOOL.

SOME OFFER LESNS ONLY, OTHERS COMBINE COOKING WITH A TOUR OF THE REGION.

THE COOKING SCHOOL AT LA COMBE OFFERS WEEKLONG PROGRAMS WITH GUEST CHEFS.

...SEASON THAT WITH TOMATOES ON TOP.

Maxa: THEIR PRESTIGIOUS INSTRUCTORS INCLUDE BARBARA POOL FENZL, A PARIS-TRAINED CHEF AND FREQUENT CONTRIBUTOR TO "BON APPETIT" MAGAZINE.

Fenzl: NOW, WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS TURN IT ONLY AT-- YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE IT MOVES-- AND YOU WANT TO TURN IT AT A 45-DEGREE ANGLE SO IT STAYS IN THE CIRCLE.

SO, THAT'S THE SECRET TO KEEPING IT A CIRCLE IS TURNING IT 45 DEGREES.

RIGHT, MOST PEOPLE THINK THEY TURN IT 90, AND THEN THEY END UP GETTING A SQUARE.

HA!

BUT IF YOU WANT A SQUARE, YOU DO 90.

THAT'S RIGHT!

HA HA.

Maxa: ALL CLASSES ARE TAUGHT IN ENGLISH, AND ACCOMMODATIONS ARE PROVIDED IN THE COUNTRY MANOR AT LA COMBE-- JUST WEST OF THE TOWN OF SARLAT.

Fenzl: HERE'S OUR TOMATOES... AROUND THE OUTSIDE.

AND WE'LL PUT THAT IN THE OVEN.

THIS IS OUR PREHEATED OVEN.

SO, IT CAN GO RIGHT IN THERE.

Maxa: TODAY'S CLASS FEATURES A TOMATO AND ROQUEFORT TART.

Fenzl: THAT'S GONNA COOK FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES.

THIS IS WHAT IT WILL LOOK LIKE ONCE IT'S BAKED AND THEN SET.

BEAUTIFUL!

I CAN'T WAIT TO TASTE IT.

A SANTE.

A SANTE!

A SANTE!

A SANTE!

OH, GOOD!

THAT'S PERFECT.

Maxa: LA COMBE IS NOT FAR FROM THE FAMED VEZERE VALLEY, NICKNAMED THE VALLEE DE L'HOMME, OR THE VALLEY OF MAN-- FOR THE PREHISTORIC CAVE DWELLINGS DISCOVERED HERE.

A STOP AT THE MUSEUM OF PREHISTORY IN THE TOWN OF LES EYZIES ARMS THE VISITOR WITH INFORMATION ABOUT OUR PALEOLITHIC ANCESTORS.

IN 1868, SKELETAL REMAINS WERE DISCOVERED IN THIS AREA AND NAMED FOR THE CAVE WHERE THEY WERE FOUND: CRO-MAGNON.

THEY WERE 30,000 YEARS OLD.

CRO-MAGNON MAN MASTERED THE ART OF MAKING TOOLS FROM BONE AND STONE.

THE MUSEUM DISPLAYS BOTH CAVE CARVINGS AND THE TOOLS USED TO CREATE THEM.

THE MOST FASCINATING WAY TO EXPERIENCE CAVE ART IS TO TOUR ONE OF THE MANY GROTTOS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC.

SOME ARE TINY, OTHERS HAVE ELECTRIC TRAINS THAT WIND DEEP INTO THE BOWELS OF THE EARTH.

LASCAUX, ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS, IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED, BUT THIS PERFECT REPLICA MAKES FOR A DRAMATIC VISIT.

LASCAUX WAS DISCOVERED IN 1948 BY A GROUP OF BOYS LOOKING FOR THEIR LOST DOG.

THE BOYS TUMBLED DOWN INTO A MAGICAL WORLD OF BISON, REINDEER, MAMMOTHS, BEARS, AND WILD CATS PAINTED A MIND-BOGGLING 17,000 YEARS AGO.

BUT THE HUMIDITY CREATED BY ALL THE VISITORS BEGAN TO RUIN THE PAINTINGS, AND LASCAUX WAS CLOSED IN 1963.

AN IDENTICAL REPLICA, LASCAUX II, WAS CAREFULLY CREATED USING THE SAME PAINTS AND METHODS THAT THE CAVE DWELLERS USED.

MANY OF THE ANIMALS SEEM PREGNANT: THE PAINTINGS MAY HAVE PLAYED A PART IN FERTILITY RITUALS.

A PERFECTLY DELIGHTFUL WAY TO GET TO KNOW THE AREA IS ON FOOT.

TRAILS WIND THROUGH THE REGION-- FROM THE RIVER'S EDGE TO THE BLUFF TOP VILLAGES.

AND IF YOU'RE WANDERING THROUGH A FARMER'S FIELD OR AROUND A BEND IN THE RIVER, DON'T BE SURPRISED IF A CASTLE SUDDENLY COMES INTO VIEW.

THERE ARE CASTLES EVERYWHERE YOU TURN.

IN FACT, THIS AREA OF FRANCE HAS MORE CASTLES THAN THE LOIRE VALLEY.

MANY, FROM LARGE FORTRESSES TO FAMILY CHATEAUX, ARE OPEN TO THE PUBLIC.

THE IMPOSING RED IRONSTONE CHATEAU CASTELNAU BRETENOUX IS AN EXTRAORDINARY EXAMPLE OF A MEDIEVAL FORTRESS.

DURING THE HUNDRED YEARS WAR, CASTLES IN THE DORDOGNE CHANGED HANDS OFTEN AS THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH BATTLED FOR POSSESSION OF THE LAND.

MANY OF THE DORDOGNE CHATEAUX FELL INTO RUIN AND WERE SAVED BY WEALTHY OWNERS WHO RESTORED THEM.

[WOMAN SINGING] Maxa: SINGER AND DANCER JOSEPHINE BAKER PURCHASED THE FAIRYTALE CASTLE OF LES MILANDES IN 1947, AND TODAY, IT'S A MUSEUM DEDICATED TO HER LIFE.

BAKER FOUND HER FAME AND FORTUNE IN FRANCE, NOT HER NATIVE AMERICA, WHERE RACISM KEPT HER FROM BEING A STAR.

IN 1920, SHE TOOK HER ROUTINE, DANSE SAUVAGE, TO PARIS WHERE SHE PERFORMED IN NOTHING BUT FEATHERS.

HER WILD, EXOTIC, POWERFUL PERFORMANCES BOWLED THE FRENCH OVER.

BY 1927, SHE EARNED MORE THAN ANY ENTERTAINER IN EUROPE.

AFTER WORLD WAR II, BAKER RECEIVED THE LEGION OF HONOR FOR HELPING THE FRENCH RESISTANCE.

IN 1938, BAKER ADOPTED 12 CHILDREN OF DIFFERENT NATIONALITIES AND LIVED HERE UNTIL SHE WENT BANKRUPT IN THE 1960s.

WANDERING ALONG THE TRAILS IN THE REGION, I HAPPENED UPON AN ANCIENT WATERMILL ON A LITTLE TRIBUTARY OF THE DORDOGNE RIVER.

THE MILL AT COUGNAGUET DATES FROM THE 14th CENTURY.

USED TO GRIND GRAIN INTO FLOUR, THESE MILLS COULD TURN AROUND 3 TONS OF GRAIN A DAY.

IN THE MIDDLE AGES, THE MILLER RANKED HIGH IN SOCIETY AND WAS OFTEN ONE OF THE WEALTHIER PEOPLE IN TOWN.

COUGNAGUET MILLED FLOUR COMMERCIALLY UNTIL 1959.

TRAVEL ANOTHER 2 KILOMETERS FROM THE WATERMILL ON ONE OF THE REGION'S MANY HIKING TRAILS AND THE PILGRIMAGE TOWN OF ROCAMADOUR LOOMS HIGH ON A ROCK LEDGE.

ROCAMADOUR'S FAME BEGAN IN 1166 WHEN A WELL-PRESERVED BODY WAS UNCOVERED IN A ROCK TOMB.

THE BODY WAS DECLARED TO BE THAT OF ZACCHAEUS, A TAX COLLECTOR MENTIONED IN THE BIBLE WHOM JESUS CONVERTED.

EVER SINCE THE DISCOVERY, ROCAMADOUR HAS BEEN A MAGNET FOR PILGRIMS AND TOURISTS ALIKE.

MANY OF THE KINGS OF FRANCE CAME HERE TO PRAY AND CLIMB ON THEIR KNEES THE 260 STEPS TO THE SANCTUARY.

INSIDE THE SHRINE, THE 12th- CENTURY BLACK MADONNA STATUE IS A CURIOUS BLEND OF CHRISTIAN, EGYPTIAN, AND ISLAMIC INFLUENCES.

YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE HAVE FAME AND FORTUNE TO LIVE LIKE ROYALTY.

MANY OF THE REGION'S CASTLES NOW HOUSE HOTELS.

YOU CAN TURN BACK THE CLOCK AND LIVE LIKE A KING.

I'M RELAXING AT THE MEDIEVAL CASTLE, THE CHATEAU DU VIGUIER DU ROY IN THE TOWN OF FIGEAC.

IT'S ONE THING TO TOUR A CHATEAU, AND QUITE ANOTHER TO EXPERIENCE STAYING THERE.

THE CHEF AT THE HOTEL'S GOURMET RESTAURANT HAS A LITTLE TRUFFLE TREAT FOR DINNER TONIGHT.

THIS SIMPLE RECIPE OF EGGS AND TRUFFLES COOKED IN BUTTER LETS THE DEEP EARTHY TRUFFLE FLAVOR STAND OUT.

[SPEAKING FRENCH] OH, OUI.

C'EST BON!

MERCI, MONSIEUR.

MERCI.

THE TOWN OF FIGEAC PROSPERED IN THE 11th AND 12th CENTURIES AS PILGRIMS PASSED THROUGH ON THEIR WAY TO ROCAMADOUR OR SPAIN.

THE PEOPLE OF FIGEAC WERE GIVEN PERMISSION TO MINT THEIR OWN MONEY AS INCENTIVE TO LIVE HERE AND DEFEND THE TOWN.

JEAN-FRANCOIS CHAMPOLLION, THE LINGUIST WHO DECIPHERED THE ROSETTA STONE, WAS BORN IN FIGEAC, AND THE PLACE DES ECRITURES IS PAVED WITH A REPLICA OF THE EGYPTIAN STONE.

FIGEAC IS LOCATED ON THE CELE RIVER, SOUTH OF THE DORDOGNE.

THE CELE AND LOT RIVERS MAKE A LOVELY LOOP TO EXPLORE BY CAR OR BY BOAT.

BOATING OPPORTUNITIES ABOUND ON ALL THESE RIVERS.

YOU CAN RENT CANOES, KAYAKS, OR, IN SOME PLACES, HOUSEBOATS FOR AN EXCURSION.

IN THE MIDDLE AGES, THESE RIVERS WERE TRADE ROUTES, AND THE CASTLES, ABBEYS, AND TOWNS STOOD CAREFUL WATCH OVER THE PASSERS-BY.

YOU CAN STILL DO AS THE MERCHANTS DID AND DOCK IN A SMALL TOWN, LIKE MARCILHAC SUR CELE, FOR REST AND REFRESHMENTS AT THE TOWN INN.

ONE OF THE LOVELIEST TOWNS ALONG THE LOT RIVER IS CLIFF TOP ST. CIRQ-LAPOPIE.

TRY TO CATCH ST. CIRQ EARLY IN THE DAY OR LATE IN THE EVENING TO AVOID THE CROWDS WHO COME TO MARVEL AT THE PERFECTLY PRESERVED STONE TOWN.

THE ENTIRE TOWN IS A CLASSIFIED HISTORICAL MONUMENT.

THE FRENCH VALUE THEIR HERITAGE AND THEIR FINE FOOD.

TO PRESERVE BOTH, THE GOVERNMENT GIVES LARGE AGRICULTURAL SUBSIDIES SO THAT SMALL FAMILY FARMS, AND THEREFORE SMALL TOWNS, CAN CONTINUE TO EXIST AND EVEN THRIVE.

A SIDE BENEFIT IS THAT CITY-DWELLERS CAN VACATION HERE AND SAMPLE THE BEST OF THEIR COUNTRY'S REGIONAL BEAUTY AND CUISINE.

THE DOWNSIDE FOR RESIDENTS IS THAT ANY REPAIR, HOWEVER MINOR, HAS TO BE APPROVED BY THE MINISTRY OF BEAUX ARTS.

WELL, HERE'S TO THE FRENCH FOR THEIR DISCERNING TASTE!

YOU KNOW, I THINK I MIGHT RETIRE RIGHT HERE IF IT WEREN'T FOR A CERTAIN WINE MADE NEARBY.

BORDEAUX.

THE WINE AND THE CITY LURE ME AWAY FROM THE DORDOGNE.

BORDEAUX MADE ITS FORTUNE THROUGH TRADE AND ITS FINE WINE.

THE MAIN SIGHTSEEING IS CONTAINED IN THE HISTORIC QUARTIER ST. PIERRE.

HERE, THE WEALTH ACCUMULATED FROM TRADE MANIFESTS IN ELEGANT BUILDINGS.

ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE'S MARRIAGE TO HENRY II GAVE THE ENGLISH CLAIM TO THE LAND, AND ACCESS TO BORDEAUX AND ITS RED WINES, WHICH THEY CALLED "CLARET."

WHEN JUST A TEENAGER, ELEANOR MARRIED HER FIRST HUSBAND, THE FUTURE KING LOUIS VII OF FRANCE, IN THE CATHEDRAL SAINT ANDRE IN BORDEAUX.

AFTER JOINING HIM ON A CRUSADE TO PALESTINE AND RUMORS OF HER INFIDELITIES THERE, THE TWO DIVORCED, AND SHE CHOSE THE KING OF ENGLAND FOR HER NEXT HUSBAND.

THERE ARE PLENTY OF HOTELS TO CHOOSE FROM IN BORDEAUX.

THE HOTEL BURDIGALA IS A MODERN ELEGANT PROPERTY IN THE HEART OF THE CITY.

LIKE MANY FINE FRENCH HOTELS, THIS RESTAURANT SERVES GREAT REGIONAL CUISINE, LIKE THIS FRESH BORDEAUX SEAFOOD.

BORDEAUX.

THE VERY NAME EVOKES A FINE, SOPHISTICATED RED WINE THAT COSTS A BUNDLE.

BUT BORDEAUX CAN BE RED OR WHITE, YOUNG OR OLD, WILDLY EXPENSIVE OR QUITE REASONABLE.

AND THE PLACE TO GET WINE SAVVY IS BORDEAUX'S MAISON DU VIN.

OK, SO, WHAT YOU HAVE... Maxa: THE WINE COUNCIL IN BORDEAUX OFFERS EVERYTHING FROM A TWO-HOUR WINE TASTING COURSE, TO TWO-DAY CLASSES, TO EXTENSIVE COURSES AND TOURS OF VINEYARDS.

THEY ARE ALL OFFERED IN ENGLISH.

UNDERSTAND THAT WHEN IT COMES TO WINE TASTING, IT IS VERY, VERY SIMPLE.

ALL RIGHT.

Maxa: IN THIS SHORT INTRODUCTORY CLASS, INSTRUCTOR DEWEY MARKHAM DEMYSTIFIES WINE TASTING IN A TRULY ENTERTAINING WAY.

YOU HAVE SOMEONE WHO IS GOING ON AND ON AND ON ABOUT THIS WINE THEY HAVE IN THEIR GLASS.

YOU KNOW... [SNIFFS] "OH, YES, WELL, I SMELL A BIT OF... "THERE ARE ROSE HIPS IN HERE... "AND I SMELL A BIT OF RUSSIAN LEATHER COMING IN AT THE END HERE."

AND YOU'RE STANDING THERE NEXT TO THIS GUY WITH THE SAME WINE IN YOUR GLASS... AND YOU'RE LISTENING TO THIS.

AND, "OH, IT SMELLS LIKE WINE TO ME.

I DON'T KNOW WHAT'S GOING ON."

OK, UNDERSTAND ALSO... Maxa: IDENTIFYING THE AGE OF WINE BY ITS COLOR, ALLOWING YOUR SENSES TO REMEMBER SMELLS, AND TEACHING THE PALATE TO RECOGNIZE GOOD WINE ARE JUST SOME OF THE TIPS HE IMPARTS.

Markham: YOU HAVE TO CONCENTRATE ON: SWEETNESS AND ACIDITY.

ALL RIGHT?

YOU DON'T WANT ANYTHING SO SWEET THAT IT'S CLOYING.

YOU WANT TO DRINK A GLASS OF WATER TO JUST FORCE IT DOWN YOUR THROAT.

ON THE OTHER HAND, YOU DON'T WANT ANYTHING SO ACIDIC THAT IT'S LIKE DRINKING THE BATTERY ACID OUT OF YOUR CAR, OK. YOU WANT A GOOD BALANCE BETWEEN THOSE TWO ELEMENTS.

Maxa: THE CLASS IS THE PERFECT WAY FOR NOVICES AND EXPERIENCED TASTERS ALIKE TO GEAR UP FOR A TRIP TO BORDEAUX COUNTRY.

Markham: WHAT YOU'RE REALLY LOOKING FOR IS SOMETHING THAT'S GOING TO GO WITH FOOD AS WELL.

NEVER FORGET THAT THIS IS MADE TO BE DRUNK WITH FOOD.

Maxa: WHEN SETTING OUT ON A TASTING ADVENTURE, REMEMBER THAT MOST BORDEAUX CHATEAUX REQUIRE RESERVATIONS.

THE WINE BUREAU CAN HELP YOU CHOOSE AND CONTACT SOME, OR ASK YOUR WINE SHOP AT HOME FOR SUGGESTIONS BEFORE YOU LEAVE.

BORDEAUX WINES VARY ACCORDING TO REGION.

WE'LL SAMPLE WINE FROM TWO DIFFERENT REGIONS, THEN TOUR A GORGEOUS MEDIEVAL TOWN, ST. EMILION.

THERE ARE 3 MAIN GRAPES IN ANY RED BORDEAUX WINE: MERLOT AND CABERNET SAUVIGNON, WITH SOME CABERNET FRANC ADDED.

MY FRIENDS, ALFRED BONNIE AND HIS SON JEAN-JACQUES INVITED ME TO THEIR CHATEAU IN THE GRAVES REGION, KNOWN FOR ITS CABERNET SAUVIGNON VINEYARDS.

THIS IS NOT DIRT HERE.

THIS IS ALMOST...

IT'S GRAVEL.

IT'S GRAVEL.

IT'S LIKE A CONSTRUCTION SITE ALMOST.

ACTUALLY, YOU'RE RIGHT.

AND THIS IS GRAVEL, AND THAT'S WHY THIS REGION IS CALLED GRAVES.

GRAVES FROM GRAVEL.

OH!

AND... Maxa: CHATEAU MALARTIC LAGRAVIERE IS ONE OF ONLY A FEW BORDEAUX ESTATES THAT PRODUCES BOTH RED AND WHITE GRAND CRU WINES-- THE HIGHEST CLASSIFICATION.

GRAPES HAVE BEEN GROWING HERE SINCE ROMAN TIMES, BUT IT WASN'T UNTIL 1997 WHEN ALFRED BOUGHT THE PROPERTY AND THOROUGHLY MODERNIZED THE WINE MAKING PROCESS THAT THIS BORDEAUX ESTATE BEGAN TO TAKE OFF.

NOW, MANY AMERICANS THINK, WELL, BORDEAUX ARE TOO EXPENSIVE TO DRINK.

I WON'T UNDERSTAND THEM.

YOU HAVE TO BE, YOU KNOW, A WINE CONNOISSEUR TO ENJOY THEM.

WHAT DO YOU SAY TO AN AMERICAN WHO SAYS THAT?

WHAT I WOULD SAY TO THEM IS THAT ACTUALLY THE BORDEAUX WINES ARE NOT THAT EXPENSIVE THAT EVERYBODY THINKS.

MAYBE A FEW FIRST GRAND CRU ARE VERY EXPENSIVE.

BUT I THINK WHAT THE BORDEAUX WE ARE DOING-- OR MAKING ARE FOR DRINKING, NOT FOR...

COLLECTING.

KEEPING OR COLLECTING.

INVESTING.

OR INVESTING OR RESELLING.

AND THAT'S NOT THE GOAL.

I DON'T WANT TO DO THAT.

I WANT TO HAVE THE WINE BEING DRUNKEN ALL OVER THE WORLD.

THAT'S MY AIM.

Maxa: IN THE MALARTIC RED WINE, I DETECTED TOBACCO, BLACK CURRANTS, AND A TOUCH OF SMOKE--REALLY!

BUT DON'T TAKE MY WORD FOR IT, MALARTIC HAS STELLAR RATINGS AMONG MANY WINE EXPERTS.

FOR A DIFFERENT TAKE ON BORDEAUX, WE HEAD NORTH TO THE WINEGROWING REGION OF ST. EMILION.

SET ATOP A HILL AND SWIMMING IN PREMIER VINEYARDS, ST. EMILION LIVES AND BREATHES WINE.

THE ENGLISH FORTIFIED THE TOWN AT THE END OF THE 12th CENTURY AFTER ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE'S MARRIAGE BROUGHT THIS LAND FIRMLY UNDER THEIR CONTROL.

WINE TRADE WITH THE BRITISH IN THE 17th AND 18th CENTURIES MADE THIS PEACEFUL, GOLDEN TOWN VERY PROSPEROUS.

THE BOATS THAT SAILED HERE FROM BRISTOL USED STONES AS BALLAST, THEN RETURNED TO ENGLAND WITH BOTTLES OF BORDEAUX WINE.

THE STONES REMAINED.

PAVED INTO ST EMILION'S STREETS ARE GRANITE AND OTHER ROCKS FROM WALES AND CORNWALL.

UNDERNEATH THE TOWN, A VAST NETWORK OF SUBTERRANEAN CATACOMBS HAS BEEN UNCOVERED.

THE CATACOMBS HOLD THE NOW-EMPTY TOMB OF A HERMIT, MONK EMILION-- THE TOWN'S NAMESAKE-- WHO LIVED HERE IN A CAVE IN 750 A.D.

THE NICE THING ABOUT BORDEAUX WINE IS IT'S AVAILABLE IN ALMOST ANY WINE STORE IN THE WORLD.

AND IF YOU'VE BEEN HERE, ONE SIP WILL BRING YOU BACK AGAIN.

THE VINEYARDS OF CHATEAU PRESSAC ARE LOCATED ON A LIMESTONE PLATEAU.

OWNER JEAN FRANCOIS QUENIN RECENTLY ACQUIRED AND RENOVATED THIS 13th-CENTURY ESTATE.

EACH CHATEAU PRESSAC VINTAGE IS A BLEND OF DIFFERENT GRAPES FROM DIFFERENT VINEYARDS, BUT THE MERLOT GRAPE DOMINATES HERE IN THE ST. EMILION REGION.

SO, GENERALLY, THE MERLOT GIVES THE FRUIT, AND THE CABERNETS GIVE THE STRUCTURE AND THE ACIDITY.

SO, ACCORDING TO THE YEAR OF THE VINTAGE, THE BLEND COULD BE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT.

Maxa: IT WAS AT THIS VERY CHATEAU THAT THE TREATY WAS SIGNED THAT FINALLY PUT AN END TO THE HUNDRED YEARS WAR.

ALONGSIDE GENTLE RIVERS, AGAINST A BACKDROP OF DRAMATIC CASTLES AND SWEET COUNTRYSIDE, THE VISITOR TO THE DORDOGNE, LOT, AND BORDEAUX REGIONS DISCOVERS A PEACEFUL, TRADITIONAL WAY OF LIFE THAT'S PERSISTED FOR CENTURIES.

TIME HAS BEEN KIND TO THIS PART OF FRANCE... LEAVING THE RICHES OF THE PAST AND ADDING THE COMFORTS AND THE WEALTH OF THE PRESENT.

A TRIP TO THE REGIONS OF DORDOGNE AND BORDEAUX IS AN UNFORGETTABLE JOURNEY DEEP INTO THE VERY HEART OF FRANCE.

AH, NOW THIS IS THE LIFE!

PREHISTORIC MAN REALLY KNEW WHAT HE WAS DOING WHEN HE PICKED THIS SPOT 30,000 YEARS AGO.

HERE'S TO MANY THOUSANDS MORE... A SANTE.

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CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION CAPTIONED BY THE NATIONAL CAPTIONING INSTITUTE --www.ncicap.org-- MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS" IS PROVIDED BY EXPEDIA.COM, A TRAVEL WEB SITE THAT OFFERS TRAVELERS A VARIETY OF WAYS TO CREATE THE TRIP THEY'RE LOOKING FOR, INCLUDING FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES.

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