Announcer: AMERICAN PUBLIC TELEVISION PRESENTS THE SPLENDORS OF THE WORLD IN THE LIFELIKE REALITY OF HIGH DEFINITION TELEVISION.

A STEP BACK IN TIME TO CASTLES, TOURNAMENTS, AND TROUBADOURS, THIS LOVELY REGION OF SOUTHERN FRANCE OFFERS SEAFRONT EXCURSIONS, BREATHTAKING RUINS, AND GLORIOUS MOUNTAIN PEAKS.

NEXT UP, CARCASSONNE AND THE PYRENEES ON "SMART TRAVELS."

Announcer: MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS" IS PROVIDED BY EXPEDIA.COM, A TRAVEL WEB SITE THAT OFFERS TRAVELERS A VARIETY OF WAYS TO CREATE THE TRIP THEY'RE LOOKING FOR, INCLUDING FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES.

EXPEDIA.COM-- DON'T JUST TRAVEL.

TRAVEL RIGHT.

Maxa, voice-over: "SMART TRAVELS" IS A GRAND TOUR OF THE OLD WORLD, THE PEOPLE, PLACES, SITES, AND DISTINCTLY EUROPEAN FLAVORS.

OUR HOST IS TRAVEL WRITER AND COLUMNIST RUDY MAXA, PUBLIC RADIO'S ORIGINAL SAVVY TRAVELER.

NOW, TIPS, TRIPS, AND SECRET PLACES ON "SMART TRAVELS."

CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION WHILE THE FRENCH RIVIERA IS TEEMING WITH TOURISTS AND PARIS IS BOILING, YOU CAN DO AS THE TROUBADOURS DID AND WANDER THROUGH SOUTHERN FRANCE, STOPPING AT CASTLES FOR JOUSTS... [APPLAUSE] COOLING OFF IN THE AZURE WATERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN, AND THEN CLIMBING ACROSS THE SWEET PYRENEES TO SPAIN.

THIS BEAUTIFUL AND VARIED REGION ENTICES THE VISITOR WITH GREAT FOOD, BOLD ART, AND DRAMATIC COUNTRYSIDE.

IT'S EASY TO CAST OFF THE CENTURIES HERE, WHETHER ROAMING ON CASTLE RAMPARTS OR TREKKING INTO THE HEART OF THE MOUNTAINS, AND THERE'S NOTHING LIKE EXPLORING THE MIDDLE AGES WITH ALL THE COMFORTS OF THE MODERN AGE.

OUR BASE IN THE OLD TOWN OF CARCASSONNE ALLOWS EASY DAY TRIPS TO HISTORIC ALBI, SEASIDE COLLIOURE, AND ROMANTIC CASTLE RUINS.

THEN WE HEAD SOUTHWEST INTO THE HEART OF THE HIGH PYRENEES.

IN THE 12th CENTURY, THIS SECTION OF FRANCE WAS NOT FRANCE AT ALL, BUT AN INDEPENDENT REGION KNOWN AS THE PAYS D'OC.

A MAJOR TRADING ROUTE BETWEEN THE MEDITERRANEAN AND THE ATLANTIC, THE REGION KNEW MUSLIM AND SPANISH INFLUENCES AND DEVELOPED A UNIQUE CULTURE.

[APPLAUSE] RENOWNED FOR ITS SOPHISTICATION AND WEALTH, PAYS D'OC FLOURISHED.

THE MEDIEVAL FORTRESS OF CARCASSONNE THRILLS AT FIRST SIGHT.

THE LARGEST MEDIEVAL FORTRESS IN EUROPE, CARCASSONNE SEEMS FROZEN IN TIME BY SOME MAGICAL SPELL.

OVER THE CENTURIES, THE CASTLE FELL INTO RUIN.

IN THE 19th CENTURY, ARCHITECT VIOLET-LE-DUC RESTORED CARCASSONNE, BUILDING UP THE WALLS AND REPLACING THE TURRET TOPS.

SOME ACCUSE MR. LE-DUC OF OVERDOING IT-- HE ADDED A BIG DOSE OF ROMANCE FOR SOME TASTES, BUT THE RESULT IS SPECTACULAR.

VISITORS CAN WANDER THE RAMPARTS AND EXAMINE THE DOUBLE WALLS OF THE FORTRESS THAT SUCCESSFULLY THWARTED MANY ATTEMPTS AT INVASION.

AT ITS HEIGHT IN THE 12th AND 13th CENTURIES, CARCASSONNE WAS RULED BY THE TRENCAVEL FAMILY WHO WERE ALLIED TO THE COUNTS OF TOULOUSE.

IT WAS A TIME OF RELATIVE PEACE AND PROSPERITY AND THE TRENCAVELS RULED WITH TOLERANCE.

THEY EXTENDED PROTECTION TO A RELIGIOUS GROUP KNOWN AS THE CATHARS, OR ALBIGENSIANS, WHO LIVED IN THE AREA.

THE CATHARS PRACTICED AN AUSTERE CHRISTIANITY THAT THE POPE CONDEMNED AS HERETICAL AND DANGEROUS.

THE POPE AND THE KING OF FRANCE JOINED TOGETHER TO SQUASH THE CATHARS AND SEIZE THE LAND OF PAYS D'OC.

A SAVAGE CRUSADE AGAINST THE CATHARS FOLLOWED THAT DECIMATED MUCH OF PAYS D'OC, AND CARCASSONNE WAS DEFEATED.

TO THIS DAY, THE VICIOUS LEADER OF THAT CRUSADE, SIMON DE MONTFORT, IS REVILED HERE.

[MAN SHOUTING IN FRENCH] CARCASSONNE STAGES TOURNAMENTS IN THE SUMMER, RECREATING THE JOUSTS BETWEEN THE CRUSADERS AND TRENCAVEL LOYALISTS.

[APPLAUSE] IN THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES, JOUSTS WERE NOTHING MORE THAN MILITARY TRAINING.

LATER, WHEN IDEAS OF CHIVALRY SPREAD AND TROUBADOURS SANG OF LOVE AND WAR, JOUSTS BECAME POPULAR SPECTACLES, DRAWING HUGE CROWDS.

THE WINNER USUALLY TOOK THE LOSER'S HORSE AND ARMOR.

AFTER A LONG DAY OF SWINGING BATTLE AXES AND WEARING THAT HEAVY CHAIN MAIL, IT'S REALLY NICE TO COOL DOWN AT A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, LIKE CARCASSONNE'S HOTEL DE LA CITE.

FIRST, AN AFTER-BATTLE DIP IN THE POOL REALLY HITS THE SPOT.

FROM THE ELEGANT, WOOD-PANELED ROOMS, YOU CAN SURVEY THE FORTRESS AND KEEP YOUR EYE OUT FOR ATTACKING CRUSADERS.

AND TO DINE LIKE A KING, EVEN IF YOU ARE NOT STAYING HERE, CHECK OUT THE HOTEL RESTAURANT, LA BARBACANE.

SALUT.

Maxa, voice-over: IF YOU STAY AT ANY HOTEL INSIDE THE WALLS AT CARCASSONNE, CALL AHEAD FOR DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS.

A CAR IS ESSENTIAL FOR EXPLORING THE REGION AROUND CARCASSONNE.

NOW, IF YOU'RE GOING TO BE IN EUROPE FOR 17 DAYS OR LONGER, CONSIDER LEASING INSTEAD OF RENTING.

YOU'LL SAVE A LOT OF MONEY.

SEVERAL CAR RENTAL COMPANIES, SUCH AS EUROPE BY CAR, OFFER A VARIETY OF LEASE OPTIONS.

WE PICKED UP THIS CAR FROM PEUGEOT'S "OPEN EUROPE PROGRAM."

OUR WHEELS TAKE US TO THE HISTORIC TOWN OF ALBI.

THE MEDIEVAL QUARTER, WITH ITS MANY MANSNS, RECALLS AN ERA OF GLORY.

THE COUNTS OF TOULOUSE, ONCE ONE OF THE MOST POWERFUL RULERS IN EUROPE, HELD A HUGE AMOUNT OF LAND IN PAYS D'OC IN THE 12th CENTURY, INCLUDING CARCASSONNE.

UNDER THE TOULOUSE RULE, ALBI'S TOWN'S BRIDGE WAS BUILT AND TRADE BEGAN TO FLOURISH.

MERCHANTS GREW RICH MAKING BLUE DYE FROM A LOCAL PLANT, AND THEY BUILT HALF TIMBERED-HOUSES ALONG ALBI'S NARROW STREETS.

WE'RE IN ROQUEFORT COUNTRY, AND I CAN'T RESIST THIS PUNGENT CHEESE.

YOU HAVE MANY, MANY BLUE CHEESE VERY GOOD IN FRANCE.

BUT THE KING OF BLUE CHEESE IS REALLY A ROQUEFORT.

A ROQUEFORT IS MADE IN THE VILLAGE OF ROQUEFORT SITUATED--LOCATED IN THE MID-PYRENEES REGION, AND IT'S SITUATED EAST OF ALBI, ACTUALLY.

SO THE ONLY REAL ROQUEFORT CHEESE COMES FROM THE TOWN OF ROQUEFORT, FRANCE.

EXACTLY.

I SEE.

IT'S A TINY VILLAGE, AND THE ENTIRE VILLAGE IS DEDICATED TO THAT CHEESE.

Maxa, voice-over: ROQUEFORT IS MADE FROM SHEEP'S MILK, AS OPPOSED TO COW'S MILK.

IT'S AGED IN CAVES FOR A MINIMUM OF 3 MONTHS, WHERE IT DEVELOPS ITS INTENSE FLAVOR.

IT'S REALLY GOOD.

THANK YOU.

THE COUNTS OF TOULOUSE ARE REMEMBERED FOR HAVING BEEN ONE OF THE GREAT RULING FAMILIES IN FRANCE, BUT ONE COUNT LED A VERY DIFFERENT LIFE.

AND HE'S REMEMBERED FOR HIS VIVID PAINTINGS OF BOHEMIAN PARIS IN THE LATE 1800s.

HE WAS COUNT HENRI DE TOULOUSE-LAUTREC.

BORN NEAR ALBI AND RAISED HERE, TOULOUSE-LAUTREC IS NOW CELEBRATED IN A MUSEUM THAT CONTAINS THE LARGEST COLLECTION OF HIS ART ANYWHERE.

CRIPPLED BY A CONGENITAL BONE DISEASE THAT MAY HAVE RESULTED FROM THE FACT THAT HIS PARENTS WERE FIRST COUSINS, LAUTREC NONETHELESS POSSESSED AN EBULLIENT SPIRIT AND A DESIRE TO EMBRACE THE WORLD.

AS A YOUNG MAN, HENRI MOVED TO PARIS AND ENROLLED IN ART CLASSES AT MONTMARTRE.

THESE WERE HEADY TIMES.

THE IMPRESSIONISTS WERE EXPERIMENTING WITH LIGHT AND COLOR, VINCENT VAN GOGH WAS A FELLOW STUDENT, AND ARTISTS AND MODELS WERE KICKING UP THEIR HEELS AT FAMOUS NIGHTCLUBS LIKE THE MOULIN ROUGE.

LAUTREC FOUND HIS NICHE IN THE LATE NIGHT WORLD OF MONTMARTRE, PAINTING DANCERS AND PROSTITUTES... AND DRAWING POSTERS FOR THE ACTS THAT TOOK TO THE STAGE.

WITH THE TERRITORY CAME TOO MUCH INDULGENCE, AND BY AGE 37, HENRI WAS DEAD FROM ALCOHOLISM, AND PROBABLY SYPHILIS.

AS AN ARTIST, LAUTREC HAD A STYLE ALL HIS OWN, WITH BOLD, FLUID LINES, A LOVE OF COLOR... AND ABOVE ALL, AN ABILITY TO CAPTURE PEOPLE CAUGHT IN PRIVATE MOMENTS.

FOR LAUTREC LOVERS, OR ANYONE CURIOUS ABOUT THIS EXCEPTIONAL ARTIST, AN EXCURSION NORTH TAKES YOU TO THE FAMILY CHATEAU AT BOSC.

THIS WAS LAUTREC'S CHILDHOOD HOME... AND HIS GREAT GRAND-NIECE IS HERE TO SHOW US ABOUT.

IN THESE ROOMS, LAUTREC FIRST DEVELOPED HIS LOVE OF DRAWING.

OFTEN BEDRIDDEN BECAUSE OF HIS FRAGILE BONES, HENRI COULD NOT ENGAGE IN SPORTS OR HUNTING OR ANY OF THE ACTIVITIES HIS FATHER AND UNCLES ENJOYED.

IN FACT, HE WAS UNABLE TO LIVE UP TO ANY OF THE ROLES EXPECTED OF THE YOUNG COUNT OF TOULOUSE.

DRAWING BECAME HIS LIFELINE.

[SPEAKING FRENCH] Translator: HE WAS A PERSON WHO ATTRACTED PEOPLE WITH HIS JOY OF LIFE, HIS GAIETY, HIS DROLLERY, AND AT THE SAME TIME HE HAD A SENSIBILITY FOR OTHERS.

Maxa, voice-over: LAUTREC AND CONTEMPORARIES SUCH AS VAN GOGH AND MATISSE OFTEN FLED PARISIAN WINTERS IN SEARCH OF SUN AND COLOR.

ONE FAVORITE SPOT FOR THE ARTIST MATISSE AND HIS FRIENDS WAS THE LITTLE TRADING PORT CALLED COLLIOURE ON THE STRETCH OF COAST KNOWN AS THE COTE VERMEILLE.

THE ANCIENT GREEKS, THE ROMANS, ARABS, FRENCH, AND SPANISH HAVE ALL CLAIMED THIS LITTLE PIECE OF PARADISE.

THE TOWN'S IMPOSING FORTRESS HOUSED THE VACATIONING KINGS OF ARAGON AND MALLORCA IN THE 12th CENTURY.

CLOSE TO THE BORDER, THE TOWN HAS A DISTINCT SPANISH FLAVOR.

THIS REGION OF FRANCE, ROUSSILLON, WAS LINKED TO SPAIN UNTIL THE 17th CENTURY, WHEN LOUIS XIV MARRIED THE DAUGHTER OF THE KING OF SPAIN AND ENDED THE LONG STRUGGLE FOR LAND BETWEEN THE TWO POWERS.

UNLIKE SAINT-TROPEZ, THE OTHER SLEEPY RESORT THAT PAINTERS DISCOVERED, COLLIOURE REMAINS FAIRLY UNSPOILED BY ITS FAME.

AN INVITING TOWN BEACH NESTLES BETWEEN THE FORT AND THE ANCIENT LIGHTHOUSE TURNED CHURCH BELL TOWER.

ALL OVER TOWN ARE REMINDERS OF COLLIOURE'S ARTISTIC LEGACY.

A WALKING TRAIL SHOWS THE PLACES MATISSE AND HIS FRIENDS DERAIN, DUFY, AND JUAN GRIS PAINTED.

THE ARTISTIC MOVEMENT CALLED FAUVISM, KNOWN FOR ITS BRIGHT BOLD COLORS AND SKEWED PERSPECTIVE, TOOK ROOT IN THIS SEASIDE TOWN.

NONE OF THE FAUVISTS' ORIGINAL WORK RESIDES IN COLLIOURE, BUT THERE ARE PLENTY OF NEWCOMERS HOPING TO BE THE NEXT SENSATION.

THE BRILLIANT COLORS IN COLLIOURE CONTINUE TO INSPIRE LOCAL PAINTERS, LIKE LONGTIME RESIDENT CARMINA.

YOU CAN VISIT GALLERIES IN THE OLD TOWN, AND IF YOU'RE LUCKY, YOU CAN MEET THE ARTISTS.

INLAND FROM COLLIOURE, WE ARE TRAVELING IN COUNTRYSIDE LONG DISPUTED BY FRANCE AND SPAIN.

THIS IS CASTLE COUNTRY, WHERE FORTRESSES KEPT WATCH OVER A VOLATILE FRONTIER.

THE MAJOR CASTLES IN THE REGION WERE KNOWN AS THE FIVE SONS OF CARCASSONNE, AND WE'RE VISITING THE TWO MOST POPULAR.

THE CASTLE OF QUERIBUS, BUILT IN THE TENTH CENTURY, IS ONE OF THE BEST PRESERVED OF THESE CASTLES.

THOSE PERSECUTED CATHARS, WHOM CARCASSONNE TRIED TO PROTECT, FLED TO MANY OF THESE CASTLES TO HIDE OUT FROM THE CRUSADERS SENT TO OBLITERATE THEM.

QUERIBUS WAS ONE OF THEIR LAST STRONGHOLDS BEFORE THEY WERE DRIVEN INTO THE MOUNTAINS.

THESE CASTLE FORTRESSES MAINLY SERVED AS LOOKOUTS AND WERE MANNED BY ABOUT 15 SOLDIERS: A GOVERNOR, SERGEANTS, AND MEN-AT-ARMS.

NOBLES AND TOWNSPEOPLE WOULD HOLE UP AT THE FORTS IN TIMES OF TROUBLE.

LONG AFTER THE CATHARS, QUERIBUS DEFENDED THE BORDER WITH SPAIN.

WHEN THE REGION OF ROUSSILLON JOINED FRANCE IN 1659, THE BORDER MOVED FURTHER SOUTH TO THE PYRENEES AND THE CASTLE FELL INTO DISUSE.

A STONE'S THROW FROM QUERIBUS, THE ROMANTIC RUINS OF PEYREPERTUSE GROW OUT OF THE CLIFF.

THIS CASTLE'S NAME COMES FROM THE OLD LANGUAGE OF PAYS D'OC AND MEANS "PIERCED ROCKS."

BUILT ABOUT THE SAME TIME AS ITS NEIGHBOR, PEYREPERTUSE OCCUPIES A VERTIGINOUS NARROW PERCH ON THE ROCKS.

IT'S EASY TO SEE WHY PEYREPERTUSE NEVER FELL TO ANY INVADER.

LEGEND HAS IT THAT A FRENCH STEW CALLED CASSOULET FORTIFIED HUNGRY TROOPS DEFENDING A TOWN NEAR CARCASSONNE AND GAVE THEM THE STRENGTH TO DEFEAT THE INVADERS.

AND IT'S NO WONDER-- THIS LOCAL STEW HAS EVERYTHING IN IT.

MANY VARIATIONS EXIST, BUT A MAJOR FRENCH CULINARY SOCIETY DECLARED THAT TRUE CASSOULET CONSISTS OF PORK SAUSAGE, MUTTON OR GOOSE, ALONG WITH WHITE HARICOT BEANS, PORK RINDS, STOCK, AND FLAVORINGS.

CASSOULET--WHAT'S IT ALL ABOUT, ELFIE?

CASSOULET, IT'S ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS DISH HERE IN THIS PART OF FRANCE, AND VERY TRADITIONAL, AND USUALLY COOKED IN THE AUTUMN BY THE FARMERS WITH MANY INGREDIENTS.

THEN THEY MIX EVERYTHING, AND THEY PUT THAT IN THE OVEN OR THE FIREPLACE.

AND THERE IS A CRUST TO BASE-- ON THE TOP?

YEAH, BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO DO A CRUST 7 TIMES.

YOU HAVE TO MIX THE CRUST-- 7 TIMES?

YEAH.

SO YOU LET IT CRUST 7 TIMES AND MIX IT IN AND LET IT CRUST.

YEAH, EXACTLY.

Maxa, voice-over: MAKING CASSOULET CAN TAKE DAYS, BUT THE RESULT IS A RICH, FLAVORFUL STEW THAT WILL LEAVE YOU CAPABLE OF TAKING ANYONE ON.

I'VE PACKED UP MY BAGS AND ROYAL ENTOURAGE, AND I'M OFF ON A PILGRIMAGE TO THE PYRENEES.

CLOAKED WITH GENTLE MEADOWS, LUSH FORESTS, AND INHABITED BY WILD BOAR AND DEER, IN THESE INVITING MOUNTAINS YOU'LL FIND PICTURESQUE VILLAGES, EASY HIKES, AND SPAS GUARANTEED TO CURE ALL ILLS.

THE OUTDOOR ADVENTURES HERE ARE ENDLESS.

YOU CAN TREK ACROSS THE ENTIRE RANGE OR AMBLE EASILY THROUGH SPECTACULAR CANYONS.

RIVER RAFTING AND HANG GLIDING ARE POPULAR, AND, OF COURSE, SKIING IN THE WINTER.

TRAILS ARE WELL-MARKED, AND MANY HAVE INNS OR HUTS ALONG THE WAY.

UNLIKE THE ALPS, MOST PYRENEES PEAKS ARE ACCESSIBLE TO STRONG WALKERS.

OUR EXPLORATION OF THE REGION CENTERS AROUND THE HIGH PEAKS AND NATIONAL PARKS.

WE'LL HIKE NEAR THE FABULOUS CIRQUE DE GAVARNIE, SIGHTSEE AND SPA IN LUZ ST. SAUVEUR, THEN CONQUER THE PIC DU MIDI.

OUR BASE IS IN THE MOUNTAIN TOWN CALLED LUZ ST. SAUVEUR.

LEGEND HAS IT THAT THE TOWN WAS NAMED BY SPANISH BANDITS AND SMUGGLERS WHO, COMING ACROSS THE MOUNTAIN PASSES, WERE TERRIFIED BY THE GREAT PEAKS AND GLOOMY GORGES.

BUT THEN THEY SAW A LIGHT-- "LUZ" IN SPANISH-- AND WHEN THEY REACHED IT, THEY FOUND A LIVELY, WELCOMING VILLAGE.

[SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY] THE BEST TIME TO GET TO KNOW LUZ ST. SAUVEUR IS MONDAY MORNING ON MARKET DAY.

HERE, A DELIGHTFUL ARRAY OF REGIONAL SPECIALTIES LINES THE STREETS-- EVERYTHING FROM GOAT CHEESES TO EDELWEISS FLOWERS, AND DON'T FORGET TO SAMPLE THE REGIONAL WINE.

AHH!

WONDERFUL!

[MEN SINGING IN FRENCH] Maxa, voice-over: THE HIGHLIGHT OF THIS REGION IS A NATURAL AMPHITHEATRE CALLED THE CIRQUE DE GAVARNIE.

IT'S AN EASY HOUR'S HIKE OR DONKEY RIDE TO THE ENTRANCE TO THE AMPHITHEATRE THAT VICTOR HUGO DESCRIBED AS: "BOTH A MOUNTAIN AND A RAMPART.

NATURE'S COLISEUM."

HE CALLED IT: "THE MOST MYSTERIOUS OF STRUCTURES, BY THE MOST MYSTERIOUS OF ARCHITECTS."

[SINGING CONTINUES] ACCOMPANYING THE SCENERY TODAY ARE A TRIO OF PYRENEES SINGERS CALLED THE BANDOLETS, WHO SING TRADITIONAL SONGS FROM THE REGION.

THEIR SONGS ARE HALF CHANTED, HALF SUNG-- A CUSTOM THAT DATES BACK TO THE MINSTRELS OF THE MIDDLE AGES.

[ALL SINGING IN FRENCH] [SINGING STOPS] Maxa, voice-over: SERIOUS CLIMBERS CAN CLIMB ABOVE THE CIRQUE TO THE FAMOUS BRECHE DE ROLAND, A GAP IN THE STONE THAT LEGEND CLAIMS WAS GOUGED OUT BY THE SWORD OF ROLAND, A KNIGHT IN CHARLEMAGNE'S ARMY.

IN THE EPIC POEM "THE CHANSON DE ROLAND," THE YOUNG WARRIOR AND THE REAR GUARD OF THE ARMY ARE AMBUSHED AS THEY RETURN TO FRANCE FROM SPAIN.

BEFORE HE DIES, ROLAND TRIES TO DESTROY HIS POWERFUL SWORD TO KEEP IT FROM THE ENEMY.

ALAS, THE SWORD PROVES MORE RESILIENT THAN THE MOUNTAIN.

BACK IN TOWN AT THE LOCAL SPA, THERE'S NOTHING LIKE A THERMAL BATH TO LOOSEN UP THOSE HIKING MUSCLES.

PRICES ARE QUITE REASONABLE, AND YOU CAN COME FOR A SWIM, A BATH, OR MASSAGE.

THE WATERS OF LUZ ST. SAUVEUR ARE USED TO TREAT EVERYTHING FROM POOR CIRCULATION TO INTESTINAL AILMENTS TO LARYNGITIS.

ROMANS RECOGNIZED THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF THESE WATERS, AS DID PEOPLE IN THE 18th AND 19th CENTURIES.

THEY WOULD OFTEN SPEND WEEKS AT THE SPAS, HOPING TO CURE AN ILLNESS.

TOULOUSE-LAUTREC'S MOTHER TOOK HIM FREQUENTLY TO SOAK IN THE PYRENEES SPAS, TRYING TO MEND HIS BONES, BUT TO NO AVAIL.

ALL OVER FRANCE, SMALL QUIET VILLAGES UNEXPECTEDLY HOUSE LOVELY HOTELS WITH WORLD CLASS RESTAURANTS.

IN THE MAGICAL STONE TOWN CALLED SAINT-SAVIN, THE CHEF AT LE VISCOS PREPARES TRADITIONAL LOCAL DISHES WITH A NEW FLAIR.

THIS IS A LITTLE VILLAGE IN PYRENEES, AND IN THIS PLACE FOR ONE CENTURY AND A HALF WE HAVE A RESTAURANT.

IT IS A VERY TRADITIONAL, TYPICAL RESTAURANT IN THIS COUNTRY.

Maxa, voice-over: FROM A FOIE GRAS APPETIZER TO A CREME BRULEE DESSERT, THE MENU FEATURES REGIONAL FARE THAT CHANGES WITH THE SEASONS.

[BELL RINGING] SAINT-SAVIN IS ALSO KNOWN FOR ITS ROMANESQUE ABBEY.

IN THE MIDDLE AGES, MONASTERIES CONTROLLED LARGE AMOUNTS OF LAND IN THE MOUNTAINS, AND THEY CREATED MINI-STATES.

SAINT-SAVIN WAS A SPANISH MONK WHO SEQUESTERED HIMSELF IN THESE MOUNTAINS.

THE OLD GUY'S GOING TO LET EVERYONE ELSE TAKE THE CAR WHILE HE RIDES HIS BIKE UP THE FAMOUS COL DE TOURMALET.

IT'S A PUNISHING RIDE, BUT YOU'VE GOT TO DIG DEEP AND REALLY SUFFER IF YOU WANT TO HOLD ON TO THE YELLOW JERSEY.

YOU MAY HAVE SEEN LANCE ARMSTRONG CRUSH HIS OPPONENTS ON THE CLIMB UP THIS HIGH MOUNTAIN PASS.

THE TOUR DE FRANCE HAS RIDDEN HERE SINCE 1910, AND IT'S AN EXCITING EVENT TO WATCH IF YOU ARE HERE IN LATE JULY.

MOVE OVER, LANCE, HERE I COME.

[MAXA GROANS] FROM THE TOP OF THE PASS, A SPECTACULAR-- AND MERCIFULLY PAIN FREE-- GONDOLA RIDE CLIMBS ANOTHER 3,500 FEET TO THE SUMMIT OF PIC DU MIDI.

ONCE AN IMPORTANT RESEARCH CENTER THAT PROVIDED NASA WITH MAPS OF THE MOON FOR APOLLO MISSIONS, TODAY THE OBSERVATORY IS A MUSEUM OPEN TO THE PUBLIC.

THE BIRD'S-EYE VIEW TAKES IN SOME OF THE 270 MILES OF JAGGED GRANITE PEAKS OF THE PYRENEES MOUNTAINS.

SOUTHERN FRANCE LEAVES YOU WITH A THOUSAND IMAGES... OF CASTLE KEEPS... AND MOUNTAIN PEAKS, OF SEASIDE PORTS... AND ANCIENT TOWNS.

THE LAND IS STEEPED IN HISTORY THAT IS STILL VERY MUCH ALIVE.

[ANNOUNCER SPEAKING FRENCH] [APPLAUSE] THE GLORY OF WHAT WAS ONCE THE PAYS D'OC SURVIVES IN THE SPLENDID FORTRESSES AND IN THE SPIRIT OF THE PEOPLE.

[MEN SINGING IN FRENCH] LIKE THE COUNTS OF TOULOUSE OR THE KINGS OF ARAGON, I THINK I'LL STAY AWHILE.

I'LL PICK A PEAK AND BUILD A MODEST CASTLE.

AND SO, FROM THE PYRENEES, I'M COUNT MAXA WISHING YOU BON VOYAGE AND AU REVOIR.

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CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION CAPTIONED BY THE NATIONAL CAPTIONING INSTITUTE --www.ncicap.org-- Announcer: MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS" IS PROVIDED BY EXPEDIA.COM, A TRAVEL WEB SITE THAT OFFERS TRAVELERS A VARIETY OF WAYS TO CREATE THE TRIP THEY'RE LOOKING FOR, INCLUDING FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES.

EXPEDIA.COM-- DON'T JUST TRAVEL.

TRAVEL RIGHT.

TRANS-ATLANTIC AND EUROPEAN FLIGHTS PROVIDED IN PART BY BMI, AN AWARD-WINNING, FULL-SERVICE AIRLINE BASED IN THE UNITED KINGDOM.

WITH MORE THAN 2,000 FLIGHTS A WEEK TO OVER 35 DESTINATIONS, BMI FLIES MORE THAN 9 MILLION PASSENGERS A YEAR.