>> male announcer: WELCOME TO TRAVELSCOPE, WITH JOSEPH ROSENDO, WHERE EACH WEEK, YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT.

>> Rosendo: TODAY ON TRAVELSCOPE, I DON MY JESTER'S CAP AND HEAD TO THE GERMAN STATE OF BADEN-WURTTEMBERG FOR WINTER CARNIVAL, A NONSTOP PARTY THAT CELEBRATES MEDIEVAL TRADITIONS, LOCAL CULTURE, AND CHASES AWAY THE WINTER BLUES.

>> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.

DK CITY, COUNTRY, AND DRIVING GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, 3-D MAPPING, AND ILLUSTRATIONS FOR KEY SITES, AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.

DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.

>> all: HO NARRO!

>> Rosendo: FASCHING, FASNET, FASTNACHT, CARNIVAL.

WHATEVER YOU CALL IT, GERMANY'S PRE-LENT CELEBRATION IS A SIGHT TO BEHOLD.

JOIN ME AS I EXPERIENCE GERMANY'S CARNIVAL.

MY BADEN-WURTTEMBERG ADVENTURE BEGINS IN THE VILLAGE OF VILLINGEN.

AT ITS 13TH-CENTURY KAISER TOWER, I MEET MY FIRST CARNIVAL CHARACTER.

GUTEN TAG.

>> GUTEN TAG.

>> Rosendo: OH, WONDERFUL.

AND YOU MUST BE LENA, MY GUIDE HERE IN VILLINGEN.

AND THIS MUST BE HOT GLOGG WINE.

>> HOT GLOGG WINE.

YOU NEED IT BECAUSE IT IS VERY COLD AT VILLINGEN.

>> Rosendo: ABSOLUTELY.

>> BUT YOU DON'T ALLOWED TO SAY "CARNIVAL."

YOU HAVE TO SAY "FASNET."

>> Rosendo: FASNET.

FASNET IN VILLINGEN.

NOW, CARNIVAL'S ELSEWHERE.

>> THE SWABIAN AND ALEMANNIAN, THEY SAY "FASNET."

THEY NEVER SAY "CARNIVAL."

>> Rosendo: OKAY.

>> IT'S FORBIDDEN.

>> Rosendo: WELL, THERE WE GO.

CARNIVAL HAS ITS RULES, OR FASNET HAS ITS RULES IN GERMANY.

>> WE GO NOW INTO THE TOWN THROUGH THE TOWER OF THE INNER WALL.

>> Rosendo: NOW, HOW OLD IS VILLINGEN?

>> VILLINGEN IS MORE THAN 1,000 YEARS OLD.

>> Rosendo: 1,000 YEARS.

YOU KNOW, LENA, I GOT THIS SCARF IN COLOGNE FOR CARNIVAL, FASNET, IN 2005.

>> AND NOW YOU NEED A HAT, I SEE.

>> Rosendo: YOU'RE RIGHT.

>> LOOK THERE.

>> Rosendo: OH, LET'S TRY LOOKING IN HERE, YEAH.

WELL, LET'S SEE.

>> THAT'S GREAT.

>> Rosendo: WHAT DO YOU THINK?

OKAY?

OKAY?

SEHR GUT?

>> SUPER.

>> Rosendo: OKAY.

LET'S GO.

OKAY, NOW I'M SET FOR FASNET.

>> YES.

IT'S FINE.

VERY FINE.

>> Rosendo: VILLINGEN'S MAIN FASNET CHARACTER, THE NARRO, DATES BACK TO THE MEDIEVAL TIMES.

A VAIN, ARROGANT, FOOLISH FELLOW, HE IS THE OPPOSITE OF THE FUN-LOVING, PASSIONATE MEN WHO DON THE COSTUME AND BECOME HIM EACH YEAR IN THE FASNET PARADE.

ON THE NIGHT OF RODENSCHUKLEN, I FIND THEM DUSTING OFF THEIR COSTUMES IN THE NARRO-ZUNETSTUBE, NARRO GUILD CLUBHOUSE.

>> CHEERS.

CHEERS.

>> Rosendo: I'M WITH PETER AND MATTHIAS, AND THEY ARE MEMBERS OF THE NARRO GUILD, RIGHT?

>> HISTORIC NARRO GUILD.

>> Rosendo: THE HISTORIC NARRO GUILD.

>> YEP.

>> Rosendo: AND HOW MANY PEOPLE ARE PART OF THE HISTORIC NARRO GUILD?

>> NEARLY 4,000.

>> Rosendo: 4,000?

>> MEMBERS, YEAH.

>> Rosendo: AND TONIGHT?

WHAT ARE YOU DOING TONIGHT?

>> WELL, TONIGHT IT'S THE TRADITION THAT WE START OUR ANNUAL CAMPAIGN WITH JUMPING OR BRINGING OUT THE DUST OUT OF THESE BELLS.

>> Rosendo: SO THE BELLS HAVE GOTTEN DUSTY BECAUSE THEY HAVEN'T BEEN USED FOR A YEAR.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: AND YOU HAVE TO SHAKE IT OUT.

AND NOW PETER HAS VOLUNTEERED TO LET ME USE HIS BELLS SO I CAN FEEL WHAT THEY'RE LIKE.

[jingling] OH, MY GOD.

IT'S ALREADY GETTING HEAVY.

>> YEAH, IT'S TOUGH.

[jingling] >> Rosendo: ALL RIGHT!

[jingling] NOW, THERE'S A CERTAIN WAY YOU HAVE TO WALK, RIGHT?

>> LET ME SHOW YOU.

>> Rosendo: OKAY, YOU SHOW ME.

[jingling] WHOO.

WELL, I DON'T KNOW.

I'VE BEEN WEARING THIS FOR TWO MINUTES, AND I'M ALREADY EXHAUSTED.

HE HAS TO WEAR IT FOR 18 HOURS.

NOW I UNDERSTAND WHAT THE BEER IS FOR.

PROST.

[all singing in German] THE HISTORIC NARRO GUILD HAS BEEN CELEBRATING FASNET SINCE 1584.

4,000 NARROS CAN'T FIT INTO THE ZUNETSTUBE, BUT IT FEELS LIKE IT.

AND THE BEER AND CAMARADERIE ARE CERTAINLY OVERFLOWING.

BASKING IN THE GLOW, WE TAKE OUR CELEBRATING INTO THE STREETS.

[all singing in German] ♪ ♪ [jingling] TO THINK, ALL GENERATIONS FROM GRANDFATHERS TO LITTLE GIRLS AND LITTLE BOYS JOINING IN A FESTIVAL LIKE THIS WITH SO MUCH HISTORY, SO MUCH BEHIND IT.

THAT'S WHY I LOVE COMING TO EUROPE, PARTICULARLY GERMANY.

[festive horn music] ♪ ♪ WHILE VILLINGEN'S FASNET REVELS IN ITS TRADITIONS, BADEN-WURTTEMBERG'S SECOND CITY, KONSTANZ ON THE BODENSEE, DECLARES ITS CARNIVAL TO BE IRREVERENT AND FREE-WHEELING.

IT IS THE SCENE OF A RIOTOUS, BOISTEROUS SEASON.

HO NARRO!

>> HO NARRO!

>> Rosendo: THAT'S HOW THEY SAY HAPPY CARNIVAL IN KONSTANZ.

AND I HAVE FREIDA HERE, A HAPPY CLOWN WHO'S GONNA TAKE US TO A LOCAL PUB.

COME ON.

DURING KONSTANZ'S CARNIVAL, EVERY OLD TOWN STREET CORNER IS A PUB, AND YOU NEVER KNOW WITH WHOM OR WHAT YOU MAY END UP SHARING A HEARTY PROST.

ALREADY YOU CAN SEE HOW THIS IS DIFFERENT FROM VILLINGEN.

THE DIVERSITY OF COSTUMES, COSTUMES THAT HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH TRADITION OF FASNET OR FASTNACHT, AND YET, IT'S STILL VERY LIVELY, STILL VERY HUMOROUS, AND STILL VERY WARM AND WELCOMING.

[festive band music] ♪ ♪ IN THE CROWD, I SEEM TO HAVE LOST MY CLOWNY FRIEND, BUT YOU KNOW, THERE'S A LOT OF NEW FRIENDS TO MAKE.

THE BLATZLEBUEBE, OR ROOSTER GUILD, DATES BACK TO THE 14TH CENTURY.

THE FRIENDLY FOWL'S FEATHERS WERE ORIGINALLY CREATED FROM SCRAPS OF CAST-OFF CLOTH.

>> HO NARRO!

>> Rosendo: [sputtering] [giggles] WOW.

WHAT MORE CAN I SAY BUT HO NARRO?

WOW.

THE CARNIVAL SPIRIT INVADES EVEN THE WALLS OF THE FORMER MONASTERY, THE COMFORTABLY LUXURIOUS STEIGENBERGER INSELHOTEL WHERE ANOTHER CARNIVAL FIGURE, THE HANSELEE, ARE THROWING A PARTY.

AHA.

SO NO ONE CAN KNOW WHO YOU ARE.

NOW HE'S ANOTHER PERSON.

NOW YOU MAKE CARNIVAL.

YOU HAVE CRAZY DAYS AND MAKE CARNIVAL.

AND NOBODY KNOWS WHO YOU ARE.

AND EVERYBODY LOOKS THE SAME.

CAN I TRY ON THE MASK?

LET ME TRY THE MASK ON.

>> JA.

>> all: HO NARRO!

>> Rosendo: THE MAN BEHIND THE MASK.

DANKE.

>> AUF WIEDERSEHEN.

YOU'RE WELCOME.

>> Rosendo: AFTER PARTYING IN KONSTANZ, I JOINED A PARADE OF FOOLS IN OBERNDORF.

IT'S A GATHERING OF FOOLS.

EVERYONE IN TOWN WANTS TO BE A PARTICIPANT IN FASTNACHT.

SOMETIMES, IT SEEMS, THAT THERE'S EVEN MORE PARTICIPANTS THAN SPECTATORS.

BUT HERE THE SPECTATORS ARE PARTICIPANTS.

AND THE PARTICIPANTS, IN A SENSE, ARE SPECTATORS AS WELL.

AND YOU GET TO DO BOTH.

[jingling and yelping] FOR SOME OF THE CHARACTERS HERE IN OBERNDORF, THE MOST IMPORTANT DAY OF FASNET BEGINS AT THE BAKERY WHEN THE NARRO CHARACTERS COME IN TO PICK UP THEIR STICKS FULL OF PRETZELS.

I LOVE PRETZELS, SO LET'S GO SEE WHAT'S HAPPENING.

[speaking German] >> DANKE SCHOEN.

>> Rosendo: OKAY, NOW, LET ME ASK YOU, WHO DO YOU GIVE PRETZELS TO?

>> OF COURSE, PRETTY GIRLS, SMALLER CHILDREN, AND ELDER PEOPLE AND OF COURSE, PEOPLE WHO SING THE TYPICAL NARRO MARSCH.

>> Rosendo: PEOPLE WHO SING?

>> YEAH.

>> Rosendo: THE NARRO MARSCH.

>> EXACTLY.

>> Rosendo: WHAT DOES THE NARRO MARSCH SOUND LIKE?

COME ON, GIVE ME A LITTLE SAMPLE.

>> A SAMPLE?

>> Rosendo: YEAH, SING SOME.

>> [singing in German] ♪ ♪ SO OF COURSE, THE REST YOU WILL HEAR IN THE AFTERNOON.

>> Rosendo: SO IF I WANT A PRETZEL, I WOULD HAVE TO STAND BEFORE YOU AND SING THAT?

>> EXACTLY.

>> Rosendo: I BETTER LEARN THOSE THAT SONG.

THE OBERNDORF NARRO, HANSELEE, AND SCHALANTE GIFT THE CROWD'S BEST NARRO MARSCH SINGERS WITH ORANGES, SAUSAGES, AND PRETZELS.

>> [singing in German] ♪ ♪ >> Rosendo: WHILE A GOOD GERMAN SAUSAGE SEEMS AN OBVIOUS PRIZE... >> DANKE.

>> Rosendo: ORANGES ARE A RECENT IDEA SUGGESTED BY SOME TURKISH GUESTS.

WHILE SOME COMPETE FOR THE TREATS, OTHERS HAVE GOOD FORTUNE THRUST UPON THEM.

YET, NO MATTER WHAT YOU CATCH OR DO NOT CATCH, EVERYONE GOES HOME WITH A BASKET FULL OF FUN DURING OBERNDORF'S FASNET.

WHAT'S YOUR NAME, SIR?

>> MY NAME IS KLAUS GRESS.

>> Rosendo: I UNDERSTAND YOU'RE A LUTHERAN MINISTER.

>> YES, I AM.

>> Rosendo: AND YOU HAD A CELEBRATION HERE?

>> EVERY YEAR WE HAVE A LUTHERAN CARNIVAL SERVICE IN OUR CHURCH.

>> Rosendo: WELL, YOU KNOW, IT'S FUNNY BECAUSE I'VE BEEN TOLD WHILE I WAS HERE IN GERMANY THAT FASTNACHT, FASNET, CARNIVAL IS A CATHOLIC CELEBRATION.

IT'S CONNECTED TO THE CATHOLIC CHURCH.

>> ORIGINALLY, IT IS.

BUT IT FITS INTO THE CHURCH HERE, NO?

IT'S A TIME OF FEAST BEFORE WE ALL FAST.

>> Rosendo: EXACTLY.

>> YEAH.

>> Rosendo: BEFORE EASTER.

>> SO IF WE'RE LUTHERANS OR CATHOLICS, WE'RE HAPPY AT THIS TIME.

>> Rosendo: OH, GOOD.

>> YEAH.

>> Rosendo: THAT'S A NICE EVOLUTION OF THE OLD TRADITION.

>> YEAH, WE KEEP IT ALIVE.

>> Rosendo: WONDERFUL.

>> WE TRY TO.

>> Rosendo: FASNET HAS BEEN KEPT ALIVE FOR MORE THAN 500 YEARS.

EACH TOWN HAS ITS OWN HOMEGROWN FOOLS, AND I VISIT A MUSEUM FULL OF THEM.

I'M IN BAD DURRHEIM AT THE NARRENZUNFT, THE BARN OF FOOLS.

AND INDEED, THERE ARE MANY FOOLS SURROUNDING ME HERE AT THE MUSEUM.

IN THIS ROOM AND THE OTHER ROOM, THERE ARE MORE THAN 400 MASKS AND COSTUMES.

WHEN YOU GO THROUGH THE MUSEUM, YOU'LL SEE CERTAIN FIGURES THAT DATE BACK TO THE ROOTS OF FASTNACHT.

BUT THEN YOU'LL ALSO SEE FIGURES THAT ARE SPECIFIC TO THE TOWN HERE IN BAD DURRHEIM, THE SALZHANSEL, WHICH IS MADE UP OF WHAT WERE PACKETS OF SALT BECAUSE BAD DURRHEIM IS NOTED FOR ITS SALT PRODUCTION.

BUT REMEMBER AS YOU GO THROUGH HERE THAT THE MASKS WERE FOR MAKING YOURSELF ANONYMOUS SO THAT YOU COULD SAY WHAT YOU WANT, BE WHO YOU WANT, AND DO WHAT YOU WANT.

OH!

[laughs] AS I TRAVEL FURTHER INTO THE BLACK FOREST TO VILLAGES LIKE ELZACH, I FIND THAT THOUGH THE TOWNS ARE SMALLER, THE FASTNACHT CELEBRATIONS ARE EVEN MORE ENTHUSIASTIC.

IT SEEMS THE SMALLER THE TOWN, THE MORE TRADITIONAL THE FASTNACHT.

HERE IN ELZACH, THERE'S ONLY ONE MAIN CHARACTER, THE SCHUTTIG, AND A VERY ORGANIZED, STRUCTURED FOOL'S COUNCIL KICKS OFF THE FASTNACHT CELEBRATIONS ON SUNDAY EXACTLY AT NOON.

HERE THEY COME.

[festive horn music] ♪ ♪ FOLLOWED BY A WHOLE PARADE OF SCHUTTIGS.

[clattering and popping] [festive music and shouting] ♪ ♪ YOU MAY NOTICE THAT ALL THE SCHUTTIG'S MASKS ARE DIFFERENT.

AND IN THEIR HOME, EACH SCHUTTIG MAY HAVE FOUR OR FIVE DIFFERENT MASKS THAT THEY CAN CHANGE DURING THE FESTIVAL.

HERE'S MY FRIENDS.

STRANGE LOT, AREN'T THEY?

OH, THIS IS SO MUCH FUN.

>> [moans] >> Rosendo: THAT'S PIG BLADDER.

PIG BLADDER.

REALLY, REALLY A PIG BLADDER.

SMELL--YOU CAN SMELL IT.

WITH HORDES OF SCHUTTIGS USING THOUSANDS OF PIG BLADDERS TO SLAM AGAINST THE GROUND OR TAKE A WHACK AT WILLING VICTIMS, THE ELZACH BUTCHER IS A REAL VIP.

HOW MANY BLADDERS DO YOU SELL DURING A FASTNACHT?

>> [speaks German] >> Rosendo: WHAT?

6,000?

6,000 BLADDERS?

FROM SCHWEIN.

JUST FROM PIG.

AND FROM BULL?

WOW, OKAY.

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN A BUTCHER?

HAVE YOU PARTICIPATED IN FASTNACHT FOR THOSE 60 YEARS?

WELL, DANKE.

THANK YOU FOR INVITING US TO THE BUTCHERIE AND SHOWING US THIS PART OF FASTNACHT.

[festive music] ♪ ♪ YOU MAY WONDER WHY I'M EATING WITH A BOX ON MY HEAD.

WELL, IT'S TO ILLUSTRATE THAT THE FASTNACHT CELEBRATION IS SO SERIOUS HERE AT ELZACH THAT THE SCHUTTIG, THE MAIN CHARACTER, CANNOT GO ANYWHERE WITHOUT HIS MASK.

NOW, THERE'S A ROOM HERE AT THIS RESTAURANT WHERE THE SCHUTTIGS CAN HANG OUT WITHOUT THEIR MASKS, BUT IF THEY WANT TO LEAVE THAT SPACE WITHOUT A MASK, LIKE, MAYBE GO TO THE RESTROOM, THEY HAVE TO WEAR A BOX ON THEIR HEAD.

SO PRETTY SERIOUS STUFF, HUH?

>> [growls] [tapping] >> Rosendo: I GUESS HE'S BACK TRYING TO GET HIS BOX.

[tapping] >> IT'S A KIND OF CEREMONY OF TRADITION.

A KIND OF TRADITION, A VERY OLD ONE, THAT IS STILL ABSOLUTELY ALIVE.

IT'S STILL ALIVE.

IT'S STILL LIVING IN US.

IT'S NOT SOMETHING WE ONLY CELEBRATE, BUT IT'S ALIVE.

IT'S PART OF US.

IT STANDS FOR US.

>> Rosendo: STANDS FOR YOU.

>> TOURISTS ARE-- IT'S NICE THEY COME HERE, BUT WE DO IT FOR OURSELVES.

>> Rosendo: THANK YOU FOR INVITING US.

DANKE.

>> THANK YOU FOR STAYING HERE.

[bells tolling] >> Rosendo: ON THE KINZIG RIVER, GENGENBACH HAS BEEN CALLED THE PEARL OF THE BLACK FOREST.

AT THE NIGIL TOWER MUSEUM, I MEET THE JESTER, GENGENBACH'S MAIN CARNIVAL CHARACTER.

THIS IS GREAT.

WE'VE GOT ALL THESE FIGURES FROM THE TOWN?

>> THESE ARE ALL THE FIGURES FROM THE TOWN.

AND WE HAVE 150 WITCHES AND 130 SCHPETLE... >> Rosendo: BEAUTIFUL.

>> IN THIS TOWN.

>> Rosendo: NOW WHEN DID FASTNACHT START HERE?

>> THE FASTNACHT IN GENGENBACH STARTS 510 YEARS AGO.

IT WAS IN 1499.

THIS WAS THE BEGINNING OF THE FASNET HERE IN GENGENBACH.

>> Rosendo: NOW, HOW DID IT HAPPEN TO START?

>> YES, IT WAS A PROTEST BECAUSE THE PEOPLE WANT TO TRY CLOTHES ON, AND THEY WANT TO HAVE FUN.

AND IT WAS NOT ALLOWED.

>> Rosendo: IT WASN'T ALLOWED?

>> IT WAS NOT ALLOWED TO PUT-- THE MAN WAS NOT ALLOWED TO PUT CLOTHES FROM A WOMAN, SO THEY STARTED TO GO TO THE STREET, AND THEY WANTED TO HAVE FUN.

THIS WAS THE START OF FASNET HERE IN GENGENBACH.

>> Rosendo: AND THAT WAS 500 YEARS AGO?

>> IT WAS 510 YEARS AGO.

>> Rosendo: 510 YEARS AGO.

>> AND THE BEGINNING OF ALL THE FASNET WAS THAT PEOPLE DON'T HAVE MUCH MONEY 500 YEARS AGO, SO THEY PUT BLACK COLOR ON THEIR FACE.

THIS WAS THE START.

>> Rosendo: THEY DID THE BEST THEY COULD DO.

'CAUSE THEY DIDN'T HAVE A LOT OF MONEY.

>> THEY DON'T HAVE-- >> Rosendo: NOW WHAT IS THIS?

OH.

WHO ARE YOU?

AND WHAT DO YOU DO IN THE PARADE?

DO YOU TELL PEOPLE SOME OF THEIR SECRETS?

HA-HA.

YOU KNOW ALL THEIR SECRETS.

>> YEAH.

>> Rosendo: FROM THE UNITED STATES, CALIFORNIA.

YES.

DANKE, DANKE.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

AND SEE WHAT ELSE WE HAVE HERE.

NOW WHO IS THIS?

[yelping] NOW, WHO ARE YOU?

THAT'S VERY COOL, VERY COOL.

BESIDES THESE WONDERFUL CHARACTERS, IS THERE ANYTHING THAT'S SPECIFICALLY SPECIAL TO YOUR FASTNACHT?

>> YES, HERE IN GENGENBACH, WE HAVE TWO SMALL PIECES OF WOOD, SO WE PUT IT ON THE FINGERS... >> Rosendo: YES.

>> LIKE THIS.

>> Rosendo: OKAY.

>> AND THEN WE MAKE NOISE.

[rhythmic clicking] [thunderous clicking] [cheers and applause] >> Rosendo: OH, THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.

I'M GONNA HAVE TO BE PRACTICING A LITTLE BIT MORE TO GET THAT GOING.

HOW ABOUT ANY KIND OF EXPRESSIONS THAT MEAN "HAPPY FASTNACHT" OR "HAPPY CARNIVAL?"

IS THERE ANYTHING YOU DO HERE IN YOUR TOWN?

>> WHEN WE ARE ON THE PARADE, WE SAY... >> all: HAARIG, HAARIG, HAARIG IST DER BAER.

[all chanting German] >> NARRI!

>> all: NARRO!

>> NARRI!

>> all: NARRO!

>> NARRI!

>> all: NARRO!

>> Rosendo: WOW.

WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?

WELL, WE ALL KNOW THAT MAKES ABOUT AS MUCH SENSE AS EVERYTHING ELSE IN CARNIVAL.

IT'S ALL FOR FUN, AND EVERYBODY KNOWS THE BEAR IS HAIRY, SO LET'S GO HAVE SOME-- >> YES, LET'S GO!

[all yelping and yipping] [humming] >> Rosendo: JUST AS EACH TOWN HAS ITS OWN CHARACTERS, MUSIC, AND SONGS, THEY ALSO HAVE THEIR OWN CARNIVAL FOOD.

ONE OF THE THINGS I ENJOY WHEN I COME TO EUROPE IS TO SAMPLE THE GOODIES THAT ARE IN ALL THE BAKERIES.

AND DURING FASTNACHT, THEY HAVE SPECIAL BAKERY TREATS.

I'M WITH MARKUS, THE BAKER.

WHAT IS THIS?

>> SCHABEN.

>> Rosendo: YEAH, WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?

>> IT'S BROKEN PIECES.

>> Rosendo: BROKEN PIECES LIKE AS IF THERE WAS A PLATE OF GLASS AND YOU BROKE IT, AND IT MADE ALL THESE BEAUTIFUL LITTLE-- BUT HOW DO YOU MAKE IT?

>> FIRST WE MAKE PASTE AND LET IT LIE 20 HOURS.

>> Rosendo: 20 HOURS?

>> YES, 20 HOURS.

>> Rosendo: UH-HUH.

>> THEN WE CUT IT.

AT LAST THINGS COME IN VERY HOT OIL, AND THEN IT'S FINISHED.

>> Rosendo: OH, BEAUTIFUL.

HERE, YOU TAKE HALF.

AH.

OH.

YOU GOT MORE THAN I DID.

A RELAXING SIT-DOWN ALONG THE RIVER IS A GOOD WAY TO GEAR UP FOR GENGENBACH'S EVENING FESTIVITIES.

MUCH OF THE CELEBRATING TAKES PLACE IN RESTAURANTS ACCOMPANIED BY WINE, FOOD, AND SONG AND MUSIC PROVIDED BY HOME-GROWN BANDS WHICH ROAM THE OLD TOWN IN SEARCH OF COMPLIMENTARY LIBATIONS.

YET A GOOD CARNIVAL NIGHT IN GENGENBACH IS A WILD AND WOOLY AFFAIR WITH COSTUMED LOCALS DOING THEIR BEST TO MAKE YOU PART OF THE FUN.

[boisterous music] ♪ ♪ >> MOO!

MOO!

>> Rosendo: [laughing] ♪ ♪ [cheers and applause] [jingling] DURING GERMANY'S CARNIVAL, THERE IS NO REST FOR THE WEARY, SO IT'S ON TO ROTTWEIL AND ITS PARTICULAR STYLE OF CELEBRATING.

THE FASNET CELEBRATION IN ROTTWEIL BEGINS EARLY IN THE MORNING, AROUND 5:30, 6:00, HERE AT A LOCAL RESTAURANT WHERE PEOPLE COME TO REGISTER THEIR COSTUMES.

THEY'RE ONLY A FEW OFFICIALLY SANCTIONED COSTUMES.

AND THEY'RE SO STRICT ABOUT IT, THAT EVEN JOURNALISTS SUCH AS I COVERING THIS EVENT, HAVE TO BE DRESSED UP NOT TO BREAK THE AUTHENTIC AND REAL ORIGINAL EXPERIENCE OF FASNET.

[jingling and distant shouts] >> THIS IS CALLED FRANSENKLEID.

AND YOU REGISTER THIS, AND THEN YOU GET THIS THING WHICH SAYS "ORIGINAL ROTTWEILER NARRENKLEID."

>> Rosendo: AH, OKAY.

SO THAT MEANS-- >> THAT MEANS THAT IT'S REGISTERED, AND THAT ALLOWS YOU TO GO WITH-- >> Rosendo: BE IN THE PARADE.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: AND IF YOU-- AND WHEN YOU COME BY, DO PEOPLE YELL AT YOU A GREETING?

IS THERE, LIKE, HO NARRO, OR ANYTHING?

>> IF YOU GREET PEOPLE, YOU JUST--WHOO-HOO-HOO-HOO!

>> Rosendo: YOU JUST MAKE A NOISE.

>> THAT'S THE GREETING.

AND I MEAN, YOU SEE FRIENDS, YOU MEET FRIENDS, AND THEN YOU SORT OF GO, WHOO-HOO-HOO-HOO!

AND THEY GO BACK, HOO-HOO-HOO!

>> Rosendo: WONDERFUL.

WELL, DANKE.

DANKE.

HAVE A WONDERFUL FASTNACHT CELEBRATION.

>> WELL, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

AND YOU GO AND WATCH, BECAUSE IT'S REALLY NICE.

>> Rosendo: I'LL BE LOOKING FOR YOU.

>> all: WHOO-HOO-HOO-HOO!

>> Rosendo: THE BELL IS RINGING, IT'S 8:00, AND THE BIG PARADE IS ABOUT TO START HERE IN ROTTWEIL.

[whips cracking] [festive band music] ♪ ♪ [jingling and whooping] DANKE.

DANKE.

DANKE.

NOW, YOUR CHARACTER'S CALLED THE BIS.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: OKAY, WHAT DOES THE BIS DO?

>> WE JUMP DOWN THE CITY.

WE TALK TO PEOPLE WE KNOW, AND WE TELL THEM STORIES ABOUT OTHER PEOPLES, FUNNY STORIES.

WHAT THEY'VE DONE, ABOUT THE YEAR AND SO ON.

>> Rosendo: WELL, AND THE WEATHER DOESN'T BOTHER YOU?

>> NO PROBLEM.

>> Rosendo: NO PROBLEM?

RAIN OR SHINE?

EVERY WEATHER, IT DOESN'T MATTER.

[festive music] ♪ ♪ THERE ARE MORE THAN 3,000 FOOLS HERE IN ROTTWEIL.

WELL, MAYBE THERE'S A FEW MORE.

HERE'S ONE.

BUT THAT'S HOW MANY PARTICIPATE IN THE PARADE EACH YEAR.

>> WHOO-HOO-HOO-HOO!

>> Rosendo: MY FIRST TRAVEL EXPERIENCE ABROAD WAS IN GERMANY IN 1969.

FOR A 23-YEAR-OLD, IT WAS AN EYE-OPENING, MIND-EXPANDING, LIFE-CHANGING EXPERIENCE.

40 YEARS LATER, I'VE RETURNED TO CELEBRATE BADEN-WURTTEMBERG'S FASTNACHT OR CARNIVAL, A TRULY CULTURAL ADVENTURE.

DURING MODERN-DAY GERMANY, IT'S AMAZING THAT THIS ANCIENT TRADITION STILL EXISTS.

AND I'M GLAD THAT IT DOES, FOR CARNIVAL IS A VERY SPECIAL TIME IN GERMANY.

IT'S A TIME WHEN GERMANS GIVE THEMSELVES THE PERMISSION TO STEP OUTSIDE OF THEIR NORMAL, EVERYDAY SELVES AND PLAY FREELY AT SOMEONE OR SOMETHING ELSE.

AND YOU, AS A VISITOR, GET TO SHARE IN THEIR JOYFUL EXUBERANCE AND HEARTFELT WELCOME.

HO NARRO!

HAPPY CARNIVAL INDEED.

UNTIL NEXT TIME, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN: TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS.

HAPPY TRAVELING.

>> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.

DK CITY, COUNTRY, AND DRIVING GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, 3-D MAPPING, AND ILLUSTRATIONS FOR KEY SITES, AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.

DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.

FOR A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S TRAVELSCOPE ADVENTURES, CALL: OR ORDER ONLINE AT: YOU CAN ALSO EMAIL US AT: OR WRITE US AT THE ADDRESS ON YOUR SCREEN.

>> Rosendo: NOW THAT YOU'VE CELEBRATED CRAZY DAYS IN GERMANY, LEARN MORE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET WHERE YOU CAN FOLLOW MY WORLDWIDE ADVENTURES THROUGH MY BLOG AND PODCAST.

KEEP IN TOUCH: OR: NEXT TIME ON TRAVELSCOPE, I DISCOVER THE LITTLE-KNOWN AND UNEXPECTED WHEN I EXPLORE THAILAND'S CAPITAL, BANGKOK.

Captioning by CaptionMax www.captionmax.com [groaning]