(cameras clicking) - There's one fashion style that has captivated the world in the last decade, streetwear.

(upbeat music) This once underground style that's synonymous with freedom and rebellion has gained immense popularity, and even left its mark in high fashion.

(upbeat music) But with all this mainstream success, concerns arise about whether streetwear can maintain its counter cultural appeal and stay true to its grassroots.

In 2019, the renowned streetwear designer the late, Virgil Abloh, even declared that streetwear is dead.

He later reaffirmed his statement in 2020 referencing streetwear as a community and not just merchandise.

Today, many share his sentiment.

- Poor people come up with things to create things, and then people with resources get to claim it, do it, and make the most money off it.

- But did going mainstream and luxe truly ruin streetwear?

Or does this crossroad mark the beginning of its next evolution?

(upbeat music) In this episode, I'll meet with streetwear designers and influencers alike to delve into the origins of this debate to unravel how we got here and to gain better insights into the future of streetwear.

As a teen in the 2000s, I distinctly remember how much hip hop music inspired my fashion choices.

There was just this distinct confidence that exuded from the people donning streetwear that was undeniably attractive and to be honest, that still holds true today.

♪ Aha, yeah ♪ Meet Glo Martin, a trailblazer in Minnesota's hip hop scene whose various aliases include Rapper Glo Pesci as well as DJ Huh?What??

Beyond his musical talents, Glo is a fashion designer with his own streetwear line called PaulWearer Apparel.

- This is from my brand PaulWearer apparel but it's like a puffy, it keeps you warm, it looks good, and you look bigger- - You look fly.

- You look a little... you know what I mean?

Like step in, you know what I mean?

I'm only a hundred something pounds this put about 50 pounds on me.

So I'm like, yeah, yeah, yeah.

- But before streetwear became the global phenomenon that it is now, it actually emerged in the late 1970s.

Back then, mainstream fashion focused on more refined and tailored designs that's often associated with established fashion houses.

Streetwear, on the other hand, came from two urban youth subcultures, the surf skate graffiti culture of California and the hiphop scene in New York.

Both groups often wore loose fitted graphic tees, baggy pants, hoodies, and a variety of headwear.

They also pair a DIY aesthetic with brands like Van and Stussy leading the way on the West Coast, and on the East, Hip hop artists would mix together different pieces.

At its core, streetwear embraced an effortless and casual look that was inclusive, obtainable and authentic to the communities that wore it.

Then in the 1990s, thanks to the growing influence of hip hop artists like Run-DMC and LL Cool J streetwear also added sneakers, tracksuits, Kangol hats and oversized gold chains into its wardrobe.

This period also saw their merchants of streetwear brands like Karl Kani and FUBU, as well as Supreme.

- Minnesota, especially in the nineties or whatever as hip hop was really exploding and emerging.

You don't have this internet, you don't have social media, so your only connection is maybe a hip hop show on Sunday for an hour that was playing, some station or whatever, and you gotta put foil on the antenna in St. Paul, 'cause we didn't have any stations that were playing hip hop in St. Paul at all.

But the significance of the coat factor and the big coat, was that, that's what they were doing in New York.

It was like, "Wow, that's the hip hop look for the winner."

And so we started adopting that stuff, so- (upbeat music) - [Susan] Talk to me a little bit about the landscape of the nineties then.

So what was the fashion like?

What was the music like?

- It was a dynamic time of creativity and self-discovery, and independence but based in a positive movement of self-expression and being your authentic selves.

And that's ultimately what hip hop is.

That's ultimately what the streetwear and represented where I'm from what I'm proud of, what I'm proud to be a part of, hip hiphop culture and all that.

So it wasn't like to impress you or to do whatever.

It's like, I dress like this because I'm a part of this culture, just is what it is.

- By the turn of the 21st century and as hip hop and skate culture became mainstream, so did streetwear.

In fact, the term streetwear wasn't even coined until the early 2000s.

But luxury brands did take notice of this new emerging trend.

This led to collaborations between streetwear labels and luxury brands beginning in the late 2000s as well as the appearance of streetwear on high fashion runways.

Today this fusion is often referred to as streetlux or luxe streetwear.

- But the whole point is like the stigma is being taken off of the urban wear or the streetwear, because now you can't hide the fact that this is worth billions of dollars.

Like we can't act like, if you wear that or if you got that on you're broke or you're dirty, you're poor, you're whatever, because that stuff is costing just as much- - But despite high fashion acknowledging the streetwear style, it actually took another decade for streetwear designers to receive the recognition they deserve.

- [Keiona] Do another pose.

- This is Keiona Cook, founder and designer of Qe'Bella Couture, a luxe streetwear clothing line in Minnesota.

- I would say that I fit in the category of luxe streetwear couture.

- Okay, so then what is luxe streetwear?

- So luxe streetwear is being able to create one of a kind pieces that are streetwear but is gonna be completely different and unique to that person's lifestyle or to that person's character, and it's also one of a kind.

So it's formal with a hint of streetwear.

And then the neckline also- - I love the neckline.

- The neckline is also what gives it that streetwear feel.

As a couture designer, I embrace breaking somebody out of their shell to encourage them to wear something that they normally would not wear.

People feel like they have to box themselves in with streetwear.

I want people to embrace their authentic style and then add those special touches for them to create their own streetwear.

- So whenever I see this piece right here I could definitely see someone on the street, but I can also see somebody wear it to a red carpet almost event too.

- [Keiona] Yeah, absolutely.

- A more formalized event.

So was that kind of like your intention for luxe streetwear then?

- Absolutely, because we wanna create timeless pieces that fit into different environments and they look good wherever you go.

- Keiona also invited me to Minnesota Fashion Week where she introduced her newest collection.

And although it was quite hectic behind the scenes everything came together seamlessly in the end.

(upbeat music) And as I watched the models drive down the runway it was clear that every ensemble had been meticulously crafted and embodied Keiona's distinctive personality.

(audience applauding) (upbeat music) And for me, that's what keeps streetwear alive.

The creativity, the individuality and the breaking of traditional fashion norms like going high fashion and then redefining the space.

And even though streetwear has outgrown its subculture roots what gives me hope is that the core values that define streetwear from the beginning are still very much intact.

♪ And say as you wish Princess bride, you a buttercup ♪ ♪ Like choking, better suck it up ♪ ♪ No hope, the coat provoking us, we post it ♪ ♪ My side's real, that's why we know Coast it up ♪ - I don't wanna be in a rap battle with you.

(both laughing)