Istanbul - At the Crossroads of History
6/4/2011 | 26m 51sVideo has Closed Captions
Joseph investigates Istanbul’s many historic neighborhoods.
From its days as the capital of the Roman Empire in the 4th century to its selection as the European Capital of Culture in 2010, Istanbul has been a significant city and major crossroad between East and West for thousands of years. Joseph investigates the city’s past and meets Istanbul’s diversity head on in the bazaars, churches, mosques and alleyways of Istanbul’s many historic neighborhoods.
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Joseph Rosendo’s Travelscope is presented by your local public television station.
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Istanbul - At the Crossroads of History
6/4/2011 | 26m 51sVideo has Closed Captions
From its days as the capital of the Roman Empire in the 4th century to its selection as the European Capital of Culture in 2010, Istanbul has been a significant city and major crossroad between East and West for thousands of years. Joseph investigates the city’s past and meets Istanbul’s diversity head on in the bazaars, churches, mosques and alleyways of Istanbul’s many historic neighborhoods.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship>> WELCOME TO "TRAVELSCOPE" WITH JOSEPH ROSENDO.
WHERE EACH WEEK YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT.
>> WAHOO!
TODAY ON "TRAVELSCOPE," I EXPLORE ISTANBUL, TURKEY, AND DISCOVER ITS HISTORIC HEART AT THE CROSSROADS OF EAST AND WEST.
>> "TRAVELSCOPE" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.
DK CITY, COUNTRY, AND DRIVING GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, 3-D MAPPING, AND ILLUSTRATIONS FOR KEY SITES AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.
DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES, THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.
AND ROSETTA STONE, CHANGING THE WAY THE WORLD LEARNS LANGUAGES.
>> AS WITH ALL GOOD REAL ESTATE, ISTANBUL'S HISTORIC ATTRACTION HAS ALWAYS BEEN ITS LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION ON THE MAJOR TRADING ROUTES BETWEEN THE WESTERN WORLD AND THE MYSTERIOUS ORIENT.
IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN A GIANT MARKETPLACE, AND THAT TRADITION IS ALIVE AND WELL TODAY AT THE GRAND BAZAAR.
ESTABLISHED IN 1461, THE GRAND BAZAAR WAS THE FIRST COVERED MARKET IN TURKEY.
THERE'S 4,000 SHOPS IN THERE.
LET'S GET GOING.
[CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY FRIENDS OF NCI] [JINGLING] BOY, THE SHOPS HERE HAVE JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING.
HERE ARE CUPS FOR TURKISH COFFEE, AND YOU CAN EVEN GET ALADDIN'S LAMP, AND WE CAN SEE IF WE CAN GET A GENIE TO COME OUT OF THERE.
HOW MUCH IS SOMETHING LIKE THIS?
>> 15 EUROS.
>> 15?
>> YES.
>> THERE'S A BIG ONE.
>> IT'S NICE, SIR.
>> THAT IS NICE.
MAYBE THAT ONE.
THAT'S NICE.
WILL YOU TAKE 10 FOR IT?
>> 10 EUROS.
>> HA HA!
VERY GOOD.
>> NO, 10 LIRE.
>> 10 IS TOO LITTLE, SIR.
>> TOO LITTLE?
11?
>> I TOLD YOU, I WILL MAKE A DISCOUNT.
13.
>> 13?
>> AND IF YOU SAY 13 IS AN UNLUCKY NUMBER, YOU CAN PAY 14.
>> HA HA.
HOW ABOUT 12?
OK?
IT'S A DEAL.
>> THANK YOU VERY MUCH, SIR.
>> THANK YOU.
SAOOL.
>> SAOOL.
THAT'S VERY FRIENDLY--SAOOL.
>> FRIENDLY?
>> YEAH.
>> SO NOW I CAN SAY SAOOL 'CAUSE I BOUGHT SOMETHING.
>> YEAH.
BYE.
ARE THESE BELLY DANCING COSTUMES?
>> OH, GOOD.
I HAVE A NIECE, AND SHE LIKES TO WEAR COSTUMES ALL THE TIME.
CAN I SEE THE PURPLE ONE?
>> OF COURSE.
>> OK, LET'S SEE.
ALSO IT'S GOT PANTS AND A LITTLE HAT.
THIS IS TERRIFIC.
A LITTLE JACKET.
NO, NOT MY SIZE.
HOW MUCH IS SOMETHING LIKE THIS?
HOW CAN YOU BE IN THE MARKET AND NOT LIKE TO BARGAIN?
>> I DON'T KNOW.
>> DON'T YOU GET ANY FUN?
ISN'T IT FUN?
IT'S NOT FUN?
JUST BECAUSE WE'RE IN THE MARKET-- HOW ABOUT 30?
HOW ABOUT 30?
30'S OK. OK. >> AND YOU QUIT BARGAINING.
>> THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
I CAN'T COME INTO A MARKET WITHOUT BARGAINING.
HE DID IT.
IT WAS VERY NICE OF HIM.
FOR ME HE BARGAINED.
HERE YOU GO.
SAOOL, SAOOL.
>> SAOOL.
>> WITH 66 STREETS AND ALLEYWAYS, 4,000 SHOPS, 20 CAFES, 2 RESTAURANTS, THERE'S A BANK, THE GRAND BAZAAR IS A CITY WITHIN A CITY.
IF YOU HAD ONLY ONE DAY TO SPEND IN ISTANBUL, YOU CAN HAPPILY SPEND IT HERE.
FIRST ESTABLISHED IN 1660 B.C., WHAT IS NOW CALLED ISTANBUL HAS BEEN THE CAPITAL CITY OF THE ROMAN, BYZANTINE, AND OTTOMAN EMPIRES.
WITH A POPULATION OF NEAR 13 MILLION, IT'S THE MODERN-DAY REPUBLIC'S MAJOR CITY.
EACH ERA CAN BE SEEN IN THE HISTORIC LANDMARKS OF OLD ISTANBUL.
I CONTINUE MY TOUR OF OLD TOWN AT THE HAGIA SOPHIA, WHICH WAS A CHRISTIAN CHURCH FOR A THOUSAND YEARS, AN ISLAMIC MOSQUE FOR 500 YEARS, AND IS NOW A MUSEUM.
IT HAS STOOD AT THE HEART OF ISTANBUL THROUGH MOST OF THE CITY'S PAST.
WELL, MARISH, I CAN SEE WHY THIS WAS ONCE THE LARGEST CHURCH FOR 1,000 YEARS IN THE WHOLE WORLD.
>> YEAH, LOOK AT THE THE SIZE OF THE DOME.
IT'S ABOUT 180 FOOT HIGH FROM THE FLOOR.
>> WELL, WHO WOULD NEED A CHURCH THIS LARGE?
>> WELL, [INDISTINCT] WANTED A CHURCH THAT WOULD BE LARGER THAN THE TEMPLE SOLOMON IN JERUSALEM, SO WHEN HE ENTERED THE TEMPLE, HE SAID, "OH, SOLOMON, NOW I AM GREATER THAN YOU."
THERE ARE BEAUTIFUL MOSAICS ON THE OTHER SIDE.
IF YOU WANT, LET'S GO AND TAKE A LOOK AT THEM.
>> YEAH, LET'S DO THAT.
>> HERE WE CAN SEE SOME BEAUTIFUL ELEMENTS FROM LATER WITH CHRISTIANITY AND THE MOSLEM PERIOD.
SO YOU CAN SEE A MOTHER MARY MOSAIC WITH JESUS IN HER LAP.
>> WELL, WHAT ARE THESE BIG PLACARDS HERE?
>> IN THOSE PLACARDS, THERE ARE THE NAMES OF GOD, PROPHET MOHAMMED, 4 MAIN CALIPHS THAT CAME WITH THE PROPHET MOHAMMED, AND THE 2 GRANDSONS OF THE PROPHET MOHAMMED.
>> AND OVER HERE I SEE WE HAVE A LITTLE MORE OF THE MOSAICS.
DURING THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE, THE MOSAICS WERE COVERED IN PLASTER DUE TO THE ISLAMIC BAN AGAINST DEPICTING IMAGES OF PEOPLE OR ANIMALS.
IN 1934 UNDER THE NEW TURKISH REPUBLIC, HAGIA SOPHIA WAS TURNED INTO THE HAGIA SOPHIA MUSEUM, AND THE RENOVATION OF THE MOSAICS BEGAN.
WHILE THE HAGIA SOPHIA HAS BEEN SECULARIZED, THE CALL TO PRAYER IS STILL ANSWERED ACROSS THE STREET AT THE SULTAN AHMED MOSQUE.
>> [CHANTING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE] >> AND WHAT ARE THE TENETS OF BEING A MUSLIN?
AND SO YOU HAVE TO DO PILGRIMAGE.
THAT'S THE FIFTH TENET.
NOW, HOW LONG HAS ISLAM BEEN THE RELIGION OF THIS AREA?
>> [CHANTING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE] KNOWN AS THE BLUE MOSQUE FROM THE 20,000 HANDMADE CERAMIC TILES DECORATING ITS INTERIOR, THE SULTAN AHMED MOSQUE HAS BEEN IN CONTINUOUS SERVICE TO THE COMMUNITY FOR CLOSE TO 400 YEARS.
DURING POPE BENEDICT XVI'S VISIT TO THE MOSQUE IN 2006, HE SAID THAT TURKEY WILL BE A BRIDGE OF FRIENDSHIP BETWEEN EAST AND WEST.
DOWN AN ALLEYWAY NOT FAR FROM THE BLUE MOSQUE, A 16th-CENTURY ISLAMIC SCHOOL, THE GAFERAGA MEDRESESI, IS DEVOTED TO THE SURVIVAL OF TURKISH CULTURE AND OFFERS CLASSES IN TRADITIONAL ARTS AND CRAFTS.
THERE I DISCOVER A SPECIAL KIND OF WATERCOLOR.
IS THIS THE WATER PAINTING CLASS?
>> YES.
WELCOME.
>> YOU'VE HEARD OF WATER PAINTS.
WELL, THIS IS ACTUALLY PAINTING IN WATER.
>> FIRST OF ALL, I WANT TO SAY THIS ART NAME IS EBRIT.
IT'S VERY IMPORTANT.
>> HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE SOMEBODY TO LEARN THIS TECHNIQUE?
>> IT TAKES 9 MONTHS, BUT AFTER 9 MONTHS, IF THE PERSON WANTS TO BE GOOD IN THIS ART, AT LEAST 2 OR 3 YEARS.
>> OH, MY GOD.
>> YES.
>> SO THIS IS A REALLY SERIOUS ART FORM.
>> IT LOOKS VERY EASY, BUT IT TAKES A LONG TIME.
>> VERY NICE.
OK, NOW THE AMATEUR WITH NO TRAINING, EXCEPT I HAVE A TEACHER HERE TO HELP ME, SO...I DON'T WANT TO HAVE PAINT ON ME.
>> YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL.
>> I'LL HAVE TO BE CAREFUL, YES.
>> NOW YOU JUST HAVE YOUR FINGER LIKE THAT.
>> SO JUST LIKE THAT?
>> YES.
YOU DID TRY IT BEFORE?
YOU ARE EXPERT.
>> I'M NATURAL.
I'M NATURAL.
>> THEN JUST TOUCH THE SURFACE LIKE THAT.
>> OK. >> YES.
THIS COLOR IS ENOUGH.
WHICH COLOR YOU FIND?
YOU CHOOSE.
>> I LIKE THE PURPLE.
>> OK, I LIKE IT, TOO.
>> BOY, SO ALMOST ANYBODY CAN BE AN ARTIST WITH A LITTLE BIT OF INSTRUCTION HERE.
OK, HERE WE GO.
>> YES.
MMM.
YES.
OK. >> IS THAT TOO MUCH.
>> YOU NEED... >> OH, A PURPLE IN THERE.
>> NOW, TO DO A SHAPE, THEN YOU WILL START HERE, AND YOU WILL COME UNTIL THIS.
GOOD.
>> MY GOD.
I'M AN ARTIST.
WOW.
>> YOU HAVE TO LAY IT GENTLY WITHOUT MOVING.
>> STRAIGHT DOWN, RIGHT?
>> YES.
GENTLY.
>> JUST DROP IT?
>> YOU ARE GOOD STUDENT.
>> THANK YOU.
THANK YOU.
YOU ARE GOOD TEACHER.
>> YOU CAN JOIN MY CLASS.
HA HA!
>> OK. NOW DO I PULL IT?
>> YES.
>> TA-DA!
HEY!
THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.
[SPEAKS FOREIGN LANGUAGE] >> [SPEAKS FOREIGN LANGUAGE] >> THANK YOU.
YOU MADE ME AN ARTIST.
AT THE END OF THE DAY OF TOURING OLD ISTANBUL, EVENING AMUSEMENTS ARE BEST FOUND AT THE CENTER OF MODERN ISTANBUL ALONG THE PEDESTRIAN STREET THAT RUNS FROM TAKSIM SQUARE TO THE MEDIEVAL GALATA TOWER.
>> WHAT A SHOW.
>> YOU ARE ABLE TO FIND RESTAURANTS THAT SERVE GOOD FAST FOOD.
FISH RESTAURANT, PANCAKES.
>> PANCAKES?
>> ...RIGHT BY THE FIRE.
>> LET'S GO THERE.
LET'S DO THAT.
THAT SOUNDS GOOD.
>> [INDISTINCT] ...WHICH IS A TRADITIONAL TURKISH BARBECUE RESTAURANT.
"SHISH" MEANS "SKEWERED."
ANY TYPE OF MEAT ON A SKEWER.
THEY ONLY SERVE LAMB, COW, CHICKEN.
SMALL PIECES OF LAMB.
>> I'LL HAVE SOME LAMB.
THAT'S PRETTY POPULAR HERE IN TURKEY.
>> HE'LL PUT SOME LAMB.
THAT'S LAMB FOR YOU.
THIS IS LAVAS.
>> WE GET A SLICE OF LAVAS, AND THEN PUT INSIDE MEAT AND THEN ONION, PARSLEY... >> BEAUTIFUL.
THIS HAS YOGURT IN IT.
>> IT'S CALLED JOCOQUE IN TURKISH.
>> JOCOQUE.
>> THEN MAKE THIS A ROLL, THEN YOU START EATING.
>> OH, WELL, THANK YOU FOR MAKING THAT FOR ME.
SAOOL.
MMM!
THAT'S VERY GOOD.
THE PERFECT COMBINATION.
>> EXACTLY.
>> SAOOL.
THE EGYPTIAN MARKET, ALSO KNOWN AS THE SPICE BAZAAR, HAS BEEN SERVING PEOPLE FOR 350 YEARS.
IT'S A GREAT PLACE TO GET SOMETHING TO WEAR, SOMETHING TO GIVE, OR SOMETHING TO EAT.
THIS IS A GREAT-LOOKING STORE.
FOOD, DRINK, GUYS HAVING BREAKFAST.
WHAT ARE WE EATING TODAY?
>> CHEESE.
>> CHEESE AND OLIVES.
YOU'RE SO GENEROUS.
HOW LONG HAS YOUR STORE BEEN HERE?
>> IT'S 8, 9 YEARS.
>> 9 YEARS THIS SHOP?
>> 89.
>> 89?
>> 89.
>> WHOA.
>> THIS MOTHER.
>> OH, THIS IS YOUR MOTHER?
>> YEAH.
>> 1920, THEY OPENED THE SHOP HERE.
SPICES, SOME HEALTH ITEMS, FOODS AND TEAS.
NOW, WHAT KIND OF PEPPER IS THIS?
>> MIXED.
>> MIXED WITH BLACK, WHITE.
>> AND RED.
>> SO ALL DIFFERENT FLAVORS.
>> YES, FOR BARBECUE, NICE.
>> FOR BARBECUE IT'S REALLY NICE?
>> VERY NICE.
>> MMM.
THAT IS... [SPEAKS FOREIGN TERM].
IT'S GOT NICE FLAVOR.
I LOVE TO GET PEPPERS FROM THIS PART OF THE WORLD.
THEY'RE SO FLAVORFUL.
>> YOU HAVE A NICE DAY.
>> THANK YOU SO MUCH.
I MIGHT NEED TO HAVE A ROAD MAP HERE TO FIGURE OUT WHAT ALL THESE SWEETS ARE.
>> WELCOME.
[SPEAKS FOREIGN LANGUAGE] >> IS THIS TURKISH DELIGHT?
>> YEAH.
>> I LOVE MARKETS WHERE THEY LET YOU TASTE THINGS.
MMM.
VERY GOOD.
>> GOOD MORNING.
>> GOOD MORNING.
HOW DO I SAY "GOOD MORNING" IN TURKISH?
>> GUNAYDIN.
>> GUNAYDIN.
LET ME ASK YOU, WHAT IS A TURKISH DELIGHT?
>> TYPICAL TURKISH WE MAKE WITH THE HONEY TYPES, AND INSIDE IT GETS DIFFERENT NUTS.
>> SO IT'S NUTS AND HONEY.
>> YEAH.
>> AH!
>> AND SOME LIKE THE DIFFERENT FLAVORS LIKE POMEGRANATE, GRAPES, CHOCOLATE, AND KIWI.
>> SO THERE'S NOT ONE TURKISH DELIGHT.
THERE'S MANY TURKISH DELIGHTS.
KIND OF LIKE HERE IN ISTANBUL.
MANY THINGS TO DELIGHT YOU.
WELL, THAT'S WONDERFUL.
MMM!
MMM.
IT'S CALLED A SPICE BAZAAR AND YOU CAN SEE WHY.
PAPRIKA, CARDAMOM, RED PEPPER, GREEN PEPPER, OREGANO, SUMAC.
HOW MANY SPICES DO YOU HAVE?
>> 140 KINDS.
>> 140 KINDS IN THIS STORE ALONE?
>> IN OUR SHOP.
WE USE PAPRIKA.
>> PAPRIKA.
>> YEAH.
>> YOU USE THAT HERE IN TURKEY A LOT IN THE FOOD.
>> THIS ONE TURKISH.
IT'S RED.
TASTE COUPLE OF PIECES, PLEASE.
>> THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
VERY GENEROUS OF YOU.
MMM.
>> YOU KNOW OTHER KIND NUTS.
PEANUTS, WALNUT.
YOU CAN FIND EVERYWHERE.
BUT PISTACHIOS.
>> PISTACHIO NUTS.
COULD I HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF PISTACHIO NUTS?
>> FOR EAT NOW?
>> TO EAT NOW, RIGHT.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
THOSE ARE REALLY THE BEST PISTACHIO NUTS I'VE EVER TASTED.
>> THAT'S ENOUGH, SIR?
>> THAT'S PLENTY.
THAT'S PLENTY.
>> NO, NO.
IT'S PRESENT.
IT'S PRESENT FROM US.
>> THANK YOU SO MUCH.
>> NO PROBLEM.
>> SEE HOW NICE THEY ARE HERE IN ISTANBUL.
OK. [SPEAKS FOREIGN PHRASE] >> YOU'RE WELCOME.
ENJOY YOUR TIME.
>> THE SHOPKEEPERS HERE SPEAK THE WHOLE WORLD'S LANGUAGE.
I JUST HEARD THEM SPEAKING TO A COUPLE IN JAPANESE AND TWO SECONDS LATER HE WAS SPEAKING TO ME.
THIS IS A WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL STOP.
LOOK AT THIS.
LOOK AT THIS HERE.
THIS IS SOMETHING YOU WON'T FIND IN YOUR LOCAL SUPERMARKET.
YES, I WOULD LIKE TO TASTE IT.
THIS IS SHEEP CHEESE STUFFED IN GOAT SKIN.
>> TASTE.
>> IT'S GOOD CHEESE.
VERY, VERY GOOD CHEESE.
WOW.
I'VE NEVER HAD A TASTE OF THAT BEFORE.
THAT IS REALLY BEAUTIFUL.
SO YOU CAN TRAVEL ALL AROUND TURKEY BY COMING HERE TO THIS SPICE BAZAAR AND TRAVELING BY YOUR TASTE BUDS.
HELLO.
HOW ARE YOU?
HOW ARE YOU DOING?
I'M DOING REAL WELL.
THESE ARE CALLED TURKISH DELIGHTS, BUT YOU HAVE SO MANY SWEET THINGS.
WHAT ARE THOSE OVER HERE WHERE IT SAYS IT'S... >> TURKISH VIAGRA.
>> TURKISH VIAGRA.
HA HA!
WHAT IS IN IT?
>> PIG AND WALNUTS.
>> PIG AND WALNUTS?
>> AND HONEY.
>> AND HONEY.
>> YEAH.
>> SO THE COMBINATION IS REALLY GOOD FOR... >> YEAH.
>> FOR US.
THAT'S GOOD.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO SAY.
WHAT ELSE DO YOU HAVE?
>> EVERYTHING.
>> HOW LONG HAS YOUR SHOP BEEN HERE?
>> IT'S ABOUT 30 YEARS.
HAREM SARAY.
HAREM IS HAREM.
SARAY IS [INDISTINCT] AND MY NAME IS SULTAN AHMED.
>> HA HA!
SO IT'S GOOD.
YOU HAVE YOUR OWN HAREM.
NOW, WHAT IS THIS?
>> THIS IS CHOCOLATE, INSIDE ALMOND AND DATES.
>> DATES?
ARE THE DATES FROM TURKEY?
>> ALMONDS AND CHOCOLATE.
>> MMM.
THIS IS AN EVIL STORE.
YOU COULD GET, YOU KNOW, ADDICTED TO THIS STUFF.
HOW COME YOU'RE NOT GIGANTIC?
THIS IS BEAUTIFUL.
>> YOU'RE WELCOME.
>> THANK YOU.
[SPEAKS FOREIGN PHRASE] FROM THE SPICE BAZAAR, IT'S A SHORT WALK TO THE FERRY, ONE OF THE MOST ENJOYABLE AND CONVENIENT MODES OF TRAVEL IN ISTANBUL.
[SHIP HORN SOUNDS] THE BOSPHORUS IS A NATURAL CHANNEL BETWEEN THE BLACK SEA AND THE MARMARA SEA, AND VIA THE AEGEAN, A PASSAGEWAY TO THE MEDITERRANEAN.
IT'S ALSO A NATURAL BOUNDARY BETWEEN EUROPE AND ASIA.
THAT'S WHY ISTANBUL HAS ALWAYS BEEN SUCH AN IMPORTANT POPULATION AND TRADE CENTER.
IT'S WHERE THE EAST AND THE WEST COME TOGETHER.
IN FACT, IT'S THE END OF THE SILK ROAD WHERE THE GOODS FROM THE EAST WOULD GO INTO THE WEST.
EVERY DAY, YOU CAN TAKE A CRUISE ON THE BOSPHORUS AND GET OFF AT ONE OF 7 STOPS.
THE FIRST FERRY STOP TAKES US TO THE SEAT OF TURKISH POWER, HOME TO 6 SULTANS OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE, THE DOLMA BACHE PALACE WAS ALSO THE RESIDENCE OF THE FOUNDER AND FIRST PRESIDENT OF TURKEY, MUSTAFA KAMEL KATATURK.
>> DOLMA BACHE PALACE WAS CONSTRUCTED IN 1843 TO 1856, AND ALL MAJOR COUNTRIES IN EUROPE AT THAT TIME OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE PERFORMED THE INDUSTRIALIZATION, AND AS A RESULT OF THIS, THEY WERE NOT AS DEVELOPED AS THE COUNTRIES IN EUROPE, SO IN ORDER TO REACH THE LEVEL, THEY ALSO ARE CONSTRUCTING MODERN-LOOKING PALACES.
>> IT LOOKS VERY MUCH LIKE THE PALACES OF FRANCE.
>> YEAH, THE INTERIOR DESIGNER OF THIS PALACE... >> VERSAILLES.
>> THE PERSON WHO DESIGN ALSO THE FRENCH OPERA HOUSE, SO THERE'S A SIGNIFICANT SIMILARITY.
>> SURE.
>> HERE'S A ROOM WHERE AMBASSADORS WERE WAITING BEFORE BEING ACCEPTED BY THE SULTAN.
>> IT'S A VERY NICE-LOOKING ROOM, BUT I CAN SEE THAT IT'S A LITTLE BIT SMALL AND IT'S KIND OF DRAB COLORS, SO IF YOU'RE HERE, YOU'RE FEELING KIND OF SMALL AND DRAB.
>> EXACTLY.
EXACTLY.
THAT WAS WHAT THEY TRIED TO DO.
IF YOU LOOK AT THE SULTAN'S ROOM HERE, YOU WILL UNDERSTAND.
>> OH, YEAH.
>> AS YOU SEE, IT'S MUCH MORE ELEGANTLY DECORATED, MUCH BRIGHTER, AND RED IN COLOR, WHICH WAS THE COLOR OF DYNASTY.
>> YOU KNOW, IT'S FUNNY THAT THIS HAD FRENCH OVERTONES.
OF COURSE IN FRANCE, THE KING WAS THE SUN KING, AND THIS IS CERTAINLY A ROOM OF LIGHT TO SHOW HOW BRIGHT AND GOLD AND BRILLIANT THE MONARCHY IS.
OH, MY GOSH.
THIS IS EXTRAORDINARY.
>> WE ARE IN THE LARGEST HALL OF THE PALACE.
THIS WAS THE PLACE WHICH WAS USED MOSTLY FOR RELIGIOUS HOLIDAYS AND FOR IMPORTANT RECEPTIONS.
I ALSO HAVE TO MENTION THAT THE FIRST ELECTRICITY AND TELEPHONE WAS USED IN OTTOMAN EMPIRE IN THIS PALACE.
>> SO THIS IS A PEOPLE THAT WERE REALLY TRYING TO COME INTO MODERN TIMES.
HOW ABOUT TODAY?
I KNOW TURKEY IS TURNING TOWARDS EUROPE AGAIN.
>> WELL, SINCE TURKEY IS A VERY BIG, HIGHLY POPULATED, AND YOUNG COUNTRY, OF COURSE TECHNOLOGICAL AND INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT IS VERY IMPORTANT IN ORDER TO BE A PART OF THE MODERN WORLD.
>> THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR INTRODUCING ME TO A PLACE THAT ILLUSTRATES SO MUCH LUXURY, EXTRAVAGANCE, AND POWER.
ISTANBUL IS NOT JUST A CROSSROADS GEOGRAPHICALLY, BUT CULTURALLY.
THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF NEIGHBORHOODS WHERE MANY DIFFERENT ETHNIC GROUPS THRIVE.
ON THE EUROPEAN AND ASIAN SHORES OF THE BOSPHORUS, THERE ARE NUMEROUS COLORFUL COASTAL COMMUNITIES TO EXPLORE.
ONE OF THE LIVELIEST IS ORTAKOY, WHERE PEOPLE CONGREGATE IN THE EVENING AND ENJOY THE MANY EATERIES, INCLUDING SEVERAL FEATURING A BIGGER AND BETTER STUFFED POTATO.
EXPLAIN TO ME WHAT THE BAKED POTATO EXPERIENCE IS?
>> YES, TURKISH NAME IS KUMPIR.
>> KUMPIR.
>> YES, IT'S BAKED POTATO.
IT'S OPEN.
>> THIS IS THE BEGINNING.
>> YES.
>> AND THEN ANYTHING GOES, HUH?
>> PEAS AND CORN, COUSCOUS.
>> THIS IS GETTING BIGGER AND BIGGER.
>> AND PICKLES.
>> PICKLES?
>> YES.
IT'S ALL RIGHT.
PICKLES AND SOME BEETS AND AMERICAN SALAD.
>> WOW.
>> HOT?
>> SURE.
>> ONE PEPPER.
DON'T WANT 2.
AND YOU'RE GOOD.
AND MUSHROOM AND OLIVE CREAM.
>> OLIVE CREAM.
>> YES.
>> HOW MANY OF THESE DO YOU SELL IN A NIGHT?
>> 100.
>> A HUNDRED?
>> YES.
>> THAT'S A LOT OF POTATOES.
ALI BABA IS THE 5 STAR KUMPIR RESTAURANT HERE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD.
AH, SAOOL.
WOW.
THIS IS THE ULTIMATE STUFFED BAKED POTATO.
ISTANBUL HAS TRADITIONALLY BEEN HOME TO DIVERSE ETHNIC AND RELIGIOUS GROUPS, AND WHILE MORE THAN 90% OF THE POPULATION IS MUSLIM, EVEN WITHIN ISLAM THERE IS DIVERSITY.
SUFISM IS CONSIDERED THE INNER MYSTICAL HEART OF ISLAM.
FOUNDED ON LOVE, THE MEVLEVI BROTHERHOOD IS A STYLE OF SUFISM BEGUN BY MEDLANA RUMI, A MYSTIC AND POET.
AT HIS SHRINE IN THE TOWN OF KONYA IN CENTRAL TURKEY, YOU CAN LEARN MORE ABOUT HIS LIFE AND BELIEFS.
I'M STANDING IN FRONT OF THE TOMB OF MEDLANA, WHO IS KNOWN IN THE WESTERN WORLD AS RUMI.
THIS WAS A GENTLEMAN WHO IN THE 13th CENTURY WAS TEACHING ISLAM AND DEVELOPED A BELIEF OF ALL INCLUSIVENESS, IN ESSENCE, WHATEVER YOU BELIEVED IN-- CHRISTIAN, JEW, BUDDHIST--YOU COULD FIND A HOME IN THIS BELIEF.
ONE OF THEIR MOST IMPORTANT THOUGHTS IS WHATEVER YOU'RE LOOKING FOR, YOU'LL FIND IT WITHIN.
KONYA IS A CENTER OF THIS BELIEF.
EVERY DECEMBER, THERE'S A COMMEMORATION FESTIVAL AND THEN THERE'S THIS MUSEUM, WHICH HOUSES THE REMAINS OF MEDLANA, AND AN INTERESTING NOTE IS ON THE TOP OF HIS TOMB IS THE HEADDRESS WORN BY THE PEOPLE WE CALL WHIRLING DERVISHES, WHICH SIGNIFIES A TOMBSTONE, THE TOMBSTONE OF THE EGO.
THE WHIRLING DERVISHES HAVE BECOME A TOURIST ATTRACTION IN TURKEY.
YET THE DANCE IS IN FACT A SACRED RELIGIOUS RITUAL, PART OF THE SUFI CEREMONY CALLED SEMA.
TO GET TO THE GENUINE HEART OF THE EXPERIENCE, I ATTEND A SUFI SERVICE AT THE MEDLANA CULTURAL CENTER IN ISTANBUL.
IF I UNDERSTAND, THIS IS A WAY TO GET TO GOD.
>> YES.
>> YEAH, AND WHAT'S INTERESTING TO ME IS, OF COURSE, THE PEOPLE'S CONNECTION TO LOVE AS BEING THE PATH.
>> YES.
>> HOW ABOUT YOU?
WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO THE PATH?
>> I SAW SEMA CEREMONY.
>> YES.
>> AND I LOVE... >> YOU LOVED IT?
>> UH-HUH.
I WANT TO DO SEMA.
>> AND DO YOU DO THE SEMA?
>> YES.
>> WHEN YOU DO THE SEMA, WHAT DO YOU FEEL?
>> PEACE.
>> PEACE.
>> HAPPY.
>> HAPPINESS.
>> WE SAY INSIDE... AL-LAH, AL-LAH... >> ALLAH!
>> "ALLAH" MEANS GOD.
>> GOD.
GOD.
WELL, IT'S FUNNY THAT WHEN YOU DO IT, YOU FEEL PEACE AND HAPPINESS.
AND WHEN I WATCHED IT, I FELT PEACE AND HAPPINESS.
THE DERVISHES BEGIN BY PLACING THEIR ARMS ACROSS THEIR CHESTS TO SIGNIFY THE ONENESS OF GOD.
AS THEY SPIN IN A COUNTERCLOCKWISE DIRECTION, THEY UNFOLD THEIR ARMS WITH THEIR RIGHT HAND FACING HEAVEN AND THEIR LEFT HAND FACING EARTH, MANIFESTING THEIR BELIEF, "FROM GOD WE RECEIVE, TO MAN WE GIVE."
THE WHIRLING DERVISHES PERFORM THE SEMA AS A MEANS OF COMMUNING WITH GOD.
THEIR CLOTHES REPRESENT THE DEATH OF EGO, THE HAT IS THE TOMBSTONE, THE BLACK CLOAK THE TOMB, AND THE WHITE GOWN THE SHROUD.
BY OVERCOMING EGO, THEY CAN BETTER LOVE AND SERVE GOD AND MAN.
[SINGING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE] "THE RELIGION OF LOVE TRANSCENDS ALL OTHER RELIGIONS.
FOR LOVERS, THE ONLY RELIGION AND BELIEF IS GOD."
MEDLANA RUMI.
[FLUTE PLAYING] TESEKKUR EDERIM.
THANK YOU FOR JOINING ME ON MY ISTANBUL, TURKEY, ADVENTURE.
ISTANBUL HAS BEEN A VITAL CENTER OF LIFE AT THE CROSSROADS OF EAST AND WEST FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.
AND BECAUSE OF THAT, IT OFFERS A HARMONIOUS BLEND BETWEEN THE EXOTIC AND THE COSMOPOLITAN, WITH PLENTY TO SEE, EXPLORE, AND DO.
THERE ARE GRAND PALACES, HISTORIC MOSQUES, COLORFUL BAZAARS, ANCIENT RUINS, AND DOWN EVERY ROADWAY OR ALLEYWAY, SURPRISES TO DISCOVER.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN: "TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS."
HAPPY TRAVELING.
>> "TRAVELSCOPE" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.
DK CITY, COUNTRY, AND DRIVING GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, 3-D MAPPING, AND ILLUSTRATIONS FOR KEY SITES AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.
DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES, THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.
AND ROSETTA STONE, CHANGING THE WAY THE WORLD LEARNS LANGUAGES.
>> FOR A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S "TRAVELSCOPE" ADVENTURES, CALL 888-876-3399.
OR ORDER ONLINE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET.
YOU CAN ALSO EMAIL US AT TV@TRAVELSCOPE.NET.
OR WRITE US AT THE ADDRESS ON YOUR SCREEN.
>> NOW THAT WE'VE EXPLORED ISTANBUL TOGETHER, LEARN MORE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET, WHERE YOU CAN FOLLOW MY ADVENTURES THROUGH MY EMAGAZINE, BLOG, AND PODCASTS.
KEEP IN TOUCH.
888-876-3399.
OR TV@TRAVELSCOPE.NET.
>> WHAT ARE THOSE OVER HERE?
IT SAYS IT'S A... >> TURKISH VIAGRA.
>> TURKISH VIAGRA.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO SAY.
[CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY FRIENDS OF NCI]
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