Edgar: On the boundary between the continents of Europe and Asia lies an ancient saltwater passage that marks the dividing line between East and West -- the crossroads of the Bosphorus Strait has cultivated civilizations for thousands of years, giving rise to a sprawling metropolis that has nurtured a variety of religions, cultures, languages, cuisine, and has a rhythm that is all its own.

This is one of the world's great urban centers -- the "City of the World's Desire," This is Istanbul.

Man: Flight 5-2-7 ready for departure.

[ Sarazino plays "Cochabamba" ] ♪♪♪ ♪ Derriere les montagnes et loin des charmes de l'Espagne Je ♪ ♪ Retrouveràis Cochabamba ♪ Edgar: You may think you've heard everything, but the world is full of surprises.

And when you're hanging out with musicians, nothing is off limits.

Is this what you guys do every weekend?

Every night.

Every night?

Yeah.

My name is Jacob Edgar.

Music is my life, and life is short.

So crank up the volume and let the voyage begin.

♪ Reste au pres de moi, une nuit avec ♪ ♪ Ramon le guerrillero valiente ♪ ♪ Amigo ♪ ♪ Reste au pres de moi, cette nuit on va danser ♪ ♪ Tout pres de la muerte, amigo ♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ When most people think of Istanbul, they think of ancient mosques like this one or whirling dervishes, or dark, winding streets lined with spice bazaars and an exotic, mysterious aura that transports you back to the time of the sultans.

I mean, this mosque here is 350 years old, and they call it the New Mosque.

So that gives you a sense of how far back history dates here.

But it doesn't take long for a visitor to this city to realize that it's a modern, vibrant place with a lot more going on beyond the old quarter.

So my mission on this episode of "Music Voyager" is to find out what the heartbeat of this city is today.

And one of the gateways to do that is music.

Traditional Turkish music reflects the influences of Europe, Asia, and the Middle East, and you can practically hear ancient history emanating from its complex rhythms and melodies, which are played on an exotic variety of zithers, lutes, flutes, and hand percussion.

While Turkish folk-music traditions are thriving and cherished, walking around the streets of Istanbul, you're more likely to hear the funky electrified beats and sensuous melodies of Turkish pop.

The blend of ancient and modern sounds heard in a typical Turkish pop song is something that has long appealed to me.

Another thing you'll notice right away is that Istanbul is absolutely exploding with creative energy.

And there is no better representative of that spirit than Nil Karaibrahimgil, a famous singer and pop-culture icon who was recently selected by a top Turkish newspaper as one of the country's most creative people.

Welcome to Istanbul.

Alright, thank you.

And thank you for agreeing to meet with me and show me around your city.

Nil brings me down by the waterfront to Bosphorus University, where she and many of Turkey's other young vanguards went to school.

Nil is a superstar in Turkey and is immediately recognized in public.

While Nil's father was also a popular musician, she's created a unique sound and style that reflects her colorful personality.

How would you describe your style of music, how does it fit into the Istanbul music scene?

It's not pop, but it's under pop, you know, like category, let's say.

For example, on my latest album, we have a song called "He-Man."

Mm-hmm.

You know the He-Man?

Like me, right.

Yeah, just like you.

[ Singing in Turkish ] And that song, for example, is totally, like, a music soundtrack.

Like, "Dum bum bum bam!

Dum dum bam bam!"

kind of thing.

So it's very difficult to call it pop, then.

I hear that drama a lot in the vocals in Turkey.

Yeah?

Yeah, a lot of emotion, you know.

We have a lot of emotion.

And we also have, like, this very happy music, but the lyrics say, "I want to die."

[ Laughs ] Or "I'm so sad right now."

Like, you know, for Istanbul, everybody says that it's a bridge between Asia and, you know, Europe, and it's a bridge between the West and the East.

It's same in music.

That's our niche.

That's what makes you special, gives you that special sound.

That's what makes us special, yes.

Now, speaking of, you said you would play a song for me today here at a cafe in the university.

What are you going to play?

I'm going to play "Hakkinda Her Seyi Duymak Istiyorum."

It's a song about love.

It's called "I Want to Know Everything About You," which I think is what love is about.

Because when you are in love with someone, you want to know everything about them.

Alright.

Well, we want to know everything about you, too, so...

Okay, I will do my best.

[ Chuckles ] [ Singing in Turkish ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Edgar: In Istanbul, some of the most happening neighborhoods are right along the water.

So the next stop on Nil's tour is just a few minutes' drive down the Bosphorus.

Alright, so we're going here?

This is the Bebek neighborhood.

And Midnight Express is one of my favorite shops.

Nil is the kind of person who exudes creativity.

Unlike me, she's got a natural sense of style.

[ Laughs ] This definitely carries over into her presentation as an artist.

Ah, look who's here.

Who is that?

Is that you?

Yeah.

"Mrs.

Happiness."

Yeah.

[ Both chuckle ] That is great.

These are beautiful photos, too.

Look at this.

I like dresses which have this, you know, like, flying effect, like, wings and light.

Yeah, you like that theme?

Also, this dress is from my album cover -- Oh, that's the same one?

You know the umbilical cord that turns me into a music instrument?

Okay, that's this one.

I made it into a dress.

It looks like something Lady Gaga would wear.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, totally.

So I think a lot of people have an impression of Turkey from the movie "Midnight Express."

So it's ironic that this store is called Midnight Express because it's the exact opposite of the impression that you get from Turkey in that film.

Here you have a modern Turkey, stylish, creative, innovative.

Colorful, full of music.

[ Karaibrahimgil singing in Turkish ] Edgar: Nil's husband manages one of Turkey's biggest advertising agencies, and despite their very public status as a Turkish power couple, they don't often allow cameras into their home.

Everywhere you look in Nil's house, there's something to grab your attention.

Yeah, my husband and I love collecting art.

Oh, yeah?

And this is one of the sculptures we have.

That's a nice ass.

And here are the animals.

The jury.

I always play them the song first.

I was going to ask if you hunted them all yourself.

No, never!

And this is my wardrobe.

You're like Imelda Marcos.

Look at all these shoes.

[ Chuckles ] It's a mess.

What is this, plastic bags or something?

Yeah.

It's done with "do not enter" tape, yeah.

Police tape.

That is insane.

It was actually Nil's free-spirited creativity that led to her first big break.

How did you get signed?

I mean, how did you get signed to your first record deal?

Karaibrahimgil: Yes, very interesting.

Really interesting.

So I started working as a copywriter.

And they asked me, "Can you write us a song, jingle song?"

For a commercial.

For a commercial for a GSM operator in Turkey.

"It would be about freedom, so you are free to write anything.

Just write a song about freedom."

Back then, I was a student.

So I just ran home, and then I just wrote the song in like an hour or something.

I went back to them, played the song.

They loved the song.

But then they said, "Why aren't you in the commercial singing the song?"

[ Singing in Turkish ] ♪♪♪ A girl saying, "I'm free," was, I don't remember, you know, like such a song in Turkish history.

It just says, "I'm free."

That commercial was a very debatable issue.

Even universities have thesis about that subject -- Can the free girl walk like this in the East of Turkey?

"No, she cannot walk," "Yes, she can walk," and, "What is freedom?"

Suddenly, everything was being argued, and I loved it.

So in one night, I become famous -- like, national famous.

But, you know, it's great because you've actually lived up to it.

[ Singing in Turkish ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Every city kind of has their feeling, you know?

New York feels a certain way, Paris is a certain way.

How would you describe Istanbul?

Istanbul... [ Chuckles ] I think she's a woman.

Okay.

I think the Bosphorus is her neck and the bridges are her necklaces.

Oh, nice.

And I think she's a bit crazy, very inspirational, colorful, and romantic.

[ Singing in Turkish ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Edgar: If the rest of Istanbul is as fascinating and vibrant as Nil, I have a lot of exploring to do.

The area where most people start their Istanbul journey is the old quarter.

It's been a hub for travelers, traders, and people of faith for thousands of years.

And one of the most stunning reminders of this city's storied past is the Hagia Sophia.

Built as an Orthodox Christian church in 532 A.D., it was later converted into an Islamic mosque when the city was conquered by the Ottomans.

These days, it's a secular institution, and no one religion can claim this remarkable structure as their own.

Nearby is the spice bazaar -- a place where you can find all of the flavors of the world -- including some that might take a little getting used to.

What is this?

Lemon salt.

Taste it.

Just taste it?

Taste it.

How do I know it's not going to kill me?

Taste it!

Ugh!

For fish.

Oh, my God.

Lemon salt.

Wow.

Yeah, I don't think it's meant to be eaten alone.

What is this?

Black chili.

Black chili?

Yes, black chili paste.

Oh, I like that.

That's really good.

For bread -- delicious.

I'll get that.

What's your name?

My name is Super Mario.

Super Mario?

Uh-huh.

Alright, I'm Donkey Kong.

You're welcome, my friend.

Nice to meet you, Super Mario.

So, tell me, you have all of these different kinds of teas.

Yeah, this is the pomegranate tea.

It's good for blood circulation.

That's the love tea.

When you drink that, you fall in love.

So you drink the love tea first, then you drink the energy tea?

Yeah, that's good for sex, actually.

When you drink that, you can make five times love in the night.

If I get this tea, I will make love five times in one night?

Yeah, we can guarantee that.

Then you'll have 10 children, by the way.

And then I have to drink the anti-stress tea because I have so many kids.

Yeah, you need that.

This is like the full-life package here.

That's the life package.

You're totally right, my friend.

[ Chuckles ] Thank you!

The old quarter is just a small part of what Istanbul has to offer, and if you're willing to step off the beaten path, you might just be surprised what you'd find.

Only a few miles away from the hustle and bustle of the spice market is an expansive forest called Parkorman.

It's a lush and serene place that has the feel of a nature preserve.

However, when I arrive at the park, things are anything but quiet.

[ Loud rock music plays ] Parkorman is periodically taken over by tens of thousands of music fans for concerts such as this rock festival headlined by Guns N' Roses.

Rock has long been popular in Turkey, and bands such as Guns N' Roses and Red Hot Chili Peppers get paid big bucks to perform at the country's many music festivals in front of adoring crowds.

Just across town is another hidden treasure.

One the most unique things about the music scene in Istanbul is this -- the Istanbul Music Center.

Here in this nondescript concrete building in the Unkapani neighborhood, you'll find most of the country's record labels.

In all of my travels, I've never come across anything quite like it.

It can be a little daunting dropping in unannounced into the showrooms, but this is a great place to find a huge selection of all types of Turkish music.

[ Woman singing in Turkish ] Mostly, this area, this building is for other record stores that want to buy CDs in quantity -- like, to get distribution and things.

But if I were a normal person just walking down the street, could I come here and buy records, as well?

Some clever tourist, now -- Clever tourist like me?

A clever tourist?

We are waiting.

Alright, I'm going to get my credit card, and I'll start doing some shopping.

Yeah.

[ Laughs ] The walls are lined with posters of Turkish stars, especially the thickly mustachioed visages of legendary singers such as Orhan Gencebay, Muslum Gurses, and Ibrahim Tatlises.

They could be confused with actors in Bollywood films, but they're actually leading performers of arabesque, a music style that has been popular in Turkey since the 1960s.

As the name implies, it's heavily influenced by popular and classical music from Arab countries such as Egypt and Lebanon, mixed with Byzantine folk and just a touch of Vegas schmaltz.

I've been told many stars-to-be were discovered right here in this building.

Aspiring crooners would travel from all over Turkey to sing in the courtyard in the hopes that they would be signed to a label and become the next Elvis of arabesque.

These days in Turkey, arabesque is out of fashion and the young generation is getting their musical inspiration from European and American rock, pop, and electronic music.

I know I can't compete with those arabesque moustaches, so I'm off to get a classic Turkish shave in the old quarter.

Yes, I'm in a very vulnerable position here.

Besides a straight razor, a Turkish barber has many other sphincter-tightening tools at his disposal.

They grow like sequoia trees from my brow.

Alright, I'll sign the papers.

I'll sign the papers.

Mmm.

-Is okay?

-[ Chuckles ] -Ah!

It feels so good!

It's very, very deep.

Almost spiritual.

Just looking at it, I'm actually not hungry, but... [ Chuckling ] Ow.

It's hot.

Ow, my tongue.

Mmm.

Incredible.

While Turkish listeners are big on pop, rock, and electronic music, there's also a huge mainstream following and deep respect for more traditional styles.

That's why I'm heading to Maiden's island in the middle of the Bosphorus, a picturesque location that hosts many weddings and special events.

That makes it a fitting spot to meet Husnu Senlendirici, an enormously popular clarinetist who got his start in music as a young child playing at traditional community events in Bergama in Western Turkey.

Husnu is a true virtuoso.

And while he has a natural gift for capturing the soul of traditional music, he's also shared the stage with some of the world's top jazz musicians and has had huge commercial success with accessible instrumental ballads.

♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ For you?

Yes.

For me, too.

Even though I'm not Turkish, it's my lifestyle.

-Insha'allah.

Insha'allah.

-Insha'allah.

[ Both chuckle ] ♪♪♪ Edgar: Husnu offers to bring me to a fasil -- an evening of food, drink, and music typically held at a meyhanesi -- a kind of tavern.

Before joining him, I meet with a meyhanesi expert to get a little context as I am surprised to learn of an age-old drinking tradition in a country that is predominantly Muslim.

What is a meyhane?

The word "mey" is a Persian word.

Really?

"Mey" is wine.

"Hane" means the house.

So if you say "meyhane," it means "the house that you can find wine."

It was a part of the ritual of everyday life.

What is the difference between a meyhane and just a restaurant?

You go to meyhane for raki and company, for conversation.

Raki is a clear, licorice-flavored alcohol that is served on ice and mixed with water, giving it a kind of milky color.

We say the meze accompanies the raki and the conversation.

Well, then, we have a problem here.

What kind of problem?

What's the problem?

I see on this table, I see some food.

But I don't see the main course.

But we just started our conversation.

So this is the first part.

So this is how we start.

Yeah, we start with the melon and the cheese.

And then they bring the raki out.

Yeah, slowly, because we need time, to spend time, to be... Getting to know each other.

Yes.

See, that's the thing.

You can tell I'm an American because I'm like, "Where is the raki?"

We're going to spend about nearly four hours, so we need a break and to be slow.

Is there any correlation or any connection between meyhanesi and music?

Yeah, there is.

The conversation needs music, which is coming slowly, makes you relax, softly.

Turkish classical music, fasil.

So I could say that Turkish people invented the concept of background music?

Yes.

An evening at a meyhanesi can often become a fasil -- kind of an informal singing and dancing to accompany the food and drink.

Husnu has invited me to join him for such an occasion, and I discover that he has a different name for raki.

Lion's milk?

Lion's milk, yeah.

Lion milk, yes.

"Lion's milk.

I want lion's milk.

[ Growls ]" Along with friends, Husnu has also brought his son.

So do you play?

Do you play music?

Yes, clarinet.

Clarinet?

Like your dad.

Yeah?

Do you teach him to play, or...?

[ Speaks Turkish ] Man: He just learned by himself.

That's the right way.

You know, the blood.

The blood.

It's in the blood, yeah.

So you're proud?

Proud?

Edgar: Husnu has good reason to be proud.

Turkey's Roma community, better known as gypsies, are the descendants of tribes from Northern India that migrated West hundreds of years ago and are known as gifted musicians.

Music is an essential part of the community's identity and expression.

♪♪♪ [ Men singing in Turkish ] ♪♪♪ As Husnu and the fasil musicians hit their stride, I realize my effort to look beyond Old Istanbul and search for the city's new and modern spirit was a bit misguided.

It's almost impossible to separate old and new here in a city where history is everywhere.

♪♪♪ Yes, Istanbul is much more than the old quarter, but even Turkey's young people are not looking to forget the past.

They are striving to reflect the contemporary influences that shape them today while respecting the history and culture that binds them together.

Even here in Taksim, the social hub of modern Istanbul, an ancient world is alive and thriving.

Yeah!

[ Laughs ] Music has always played an important role in keeping the sense of community going strong here in Turkey, and as it has over the centuries, it continues to adopt new flavors and inspirations from beyond its borders.

That sense of cultural pride blended with openness to new ideas is what promises to keep Istanbul colorful and compelling far into the future.

♪♪♪ [ Karaibrahimgil singing in Turkish ] [ Singing in Turkish ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪