Hey, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe.

This time, we're in perhaps the most historic and certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in, Istanbul.

Thanks for joining us.

♪ Istanbul is one of the great cities on Earth, period.

For thousands of years, this place, where East meets West, has been a crossroads of civilizations.

Few places on Earth have witnessed more history than this sprawling metropolis on the Bosphorus.

Rick: Enjoying the delights of Istanbul, we'll marvel at mosques, peruse the Grand Bazaar, be wowed by classic carpets, admire artisans at work, and learn why the dervish whirls.

We'll sail the Bosphorus, eat fresh fish off the boat, be tempted by honey-drenched baklava, buy some exquisite silk, and grab some ice cream.

[Rick laughing] Or not.

We'll take a side trip to Asia and lose ourselves in a sea of its people, as we celebrate this vast and complex city.

Turkey bridges Europe and Asia.

Its largest city, Istanbul, straddles the Bosphorus Strait.

Part of the city's in Europe and part in Asia.

The Golden Horn inlet, long a strategic harbor, is crossed by the Galata Bridge.

It connects the bustling new town and the Old Town with its fabled palace and mosques.

After a cruise on the Bosphorus, we'll explore the Grand Bazaar, wander down the İstiklal Caddesi Boulevard, then finish in Asia with a visit to Üsküdar.

♪ Inspiring monuments showcase 2,000 years of Istanbul history, its ancient Roman and early Christian Byzantine period, its centuries as the capital of the Muslim Ottoman Empire, and its birth as a modern nation in the 20th century.

♪ While today the city is a vast megapolis of over 15 million people sprawling along both sides of the Bosphorus, its oldest citizens actually remember when it had only a million people.

In other words, the vast majority of the city is new.

And its historic points of interest are mostly corralled into a relatively compact old center.

♪ The starting point for many travelers is Istanbul's state-of-the-art cruise terminal, with its ingenious collapsible walls.

It adds to the city's population whenever ships are in port.

A farsighted infrastructure investment, all the buses and taxis are underground to efficiently move the crowds.

In season, massive cruise ships pour thousands of tourists smoothly into the city for a busy day of sightseeing and shopping.

♪ When ships sail, the security and customs walls fold down, and Galata Port transforms into a delightful public promenade, 600 yards long.

Late in the day, the people-watching mixes with the commotion of the busy harbor to make it a Turkish paseo like none other.

♪ The Bosporus is churning with boat traffic of all sorts.

This narrow and strategic strait is a bottleneck, busy with freighters, including lots of Ukrainian and Russian ships, since this is the only route between ports on the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, and tourist boats, doing their maritime do-si-do, dance around the serious cargo ships and ferries.

♪ For more of a mini-cruise, it's easy to hop a sightseeing boat for a relaxing sail up the Bosphorus.

Yes, an intercontinental cruise.

It's a chance to see Istanbul from the water and get the lay of the land, with Europe on one side and Asia on the other.

Small historic towns marked by their minarets are now engulfed in the sprawl of modern Istanbul.

The boat passes an Ottoman emperor's hunting lodge, palaces of the nobility, and homes of wealthy locals-- locals who can afford the Bosphorus waterfront, some of the priciest real estate in all of Turkey.

And anyone can enjoy the inviting beachfront parks.

The dramatic Bosphorus Bridge was the first bridge ever to span two continents.

And the Rumeli Fortress was built by the Ottomans five centuries ago.

Back in the old center, the Galata Bridge spans the strategic inlet called the Golden Horn.

For centuries, this easy-to-defend bay provided the city a protected harbor.

A thousand years ago, long before there was a bridge here, a mighty chain was stretched across the mouth of this inlet.

This gave the Byzantine Empire its safest harbor, which provided the city a critical key to both trade and military power.

While just a few years ago its shoreline was an industrial wasteland, today, the Golden Horn is cleaned up and lined by inviting parks.

After a determined effort by the city and lots of investment, the people of Istanbul now share a delightfully green and welcoming people zone-- the Golden Horn.

♪ Back at the Galata Bridge, for fast-food Istanbul style, you can grab a fish-wich just off the boat-- mackerel, fresh from the guys who caught it, at one of the venerable... and very tipsy... fish-and-bread boats.

And as the sun sets, on the bridge, you can enjoy panoramic views of Istanbul's Old Town, an iconic place for more fast fish... [Vendor yelling in Turkish] [Yelling in Turkish] ...or a nice dinner, with a view of the harbor action.

[Boat horn sounding] There are lots of tourists in Istanbul, and it's interesting to note that about half of them come from other Muslim countries.

[General chatter] ♪ While Istanbul is full of iconic sites, there's one that seems to be on every traveler's list-- the Grand Bazaar.

♪ In many ways, Istanbul's Grand Bazaar remains much as it was centuries ago, enchanting and perplexing visitors with its maze-like network of lanes hiding more than 4,000 colorful shops, artisans at work, and tiny eateries.

[Speaking Turkish] Despite all the tourists and knick-knacks, the heart of the Grand Bazaar still beats, giving the observant visitor an unforgettable memory.

[Speaking Turkish] Rick: In its day, this labyrinthine warren of shops under fine arches was the world trade center for the entire Ottoman Empire, locked down and guarded by more than 100 soldiers every night.

While today's main drag is touristy, do what you can to imagine the atmosphere here centuries ago, during Silk Road times-- the barrage on the senses... exotic spices, busy merchants, convivial tea breaks, and thirsty shoppers.

♪ The market is vast, and you can still escape the tourist zones to discover some authentic nooks and crannies.

Surprises await in the low-rent fringes.

A commotion of shouting marks the bazaar's “poor man's Wall Street.” These currency brokers are frantically swapping fortunes of euros, dollars, and Turkish lira for their clients.

Others keep their fortunes in gold.

The many jewelry shops are a reminder that Turks love gold for more than just its beauty and allure.

Traditionally, it's considered a practical and tangible place to store their wealth.

And much of that gold may be recycled.

Around the corner, surrounding a humble courtyard, sooty smiths labor over furnaces.

They're melting gold trimmings from nearby jewelers' workshops back into a pure and more usable form.

♪ For over 20 years, I've been visiting Ayhan.

His skillful techniques have changed little through the generations as he works his trade.

Ayhan: Gold.

-Rick: Gold.

-Ayhan: Gold.

Rick (voiceover): And with that gold, you can buy a fine Turkish carpet.

♪ Shops can come with a vast inventory, offering a warp-and-weft fantasy of options.

Enjoy a colorful demonstration.

Salesman: Here I have four amazing art pieces that they are totally different categories.

It's like another language.

Each region of Turkey, we have different style.

Rick: But be attracted not by aggressive sales pitches, but by merchants who celebrate this rich, artistic heritage.

Salesman: So, the other name of those silk collection rugs are "flying Turkish rug."

♪ [Salesman chuckles, applause] ♪ Rick: With the fall of Christian Byzantium and the rise of the Muslim Ottomans, grand mosques shaped the city's skyline, and Süleymaniye is the finest in town.

♪ This soothing, restrained yet magnificent house of worship was built by the great 16th-century architect, Sinan for his sultan, Süleyman.

Although less colorful and less glamorous than some of Istanbul's other mosques, this mosque is bigger, older, and considered the masterpiece of Ottoman architecture.

The tranquil interior is decorated in pastel hues and stained glass.

Its vast expanse, with no interior support, was a marvel in its day.

And visiting Turks make a point to visit the elaborate tomb of the sultan, Süleyman, whose nickname was "the Magnificent."

[Call to prayer being sung] The Muslim faith is as varied as the Christian faith.

Some groups are more orthodox and conservative, and others more progressive, like this congregation of mystic Sufi dervishes, which welcomes women to take leadership roles.

While some worship in grand mosques, others gather in a more intimate space, like this, where musicians set the mood... ♪ the leader guides the congregation in prayer, and, slowly, the dervishes blossom into a state where they're ready to whirl.

Dervishes are like monks, inspired by the mystic 13th-century poet, Mevlana, also known as Rumi.

Not all dervishes whirl, but all whirlers are dervishes.

♪ With one foot planted in their community, their family, and the other foot dancing around and around, celebrating the diversity of God's great creation, they whirl themselves into a meditative trance.

♪ In this mesmerizing form of prayer, the dervish contemplates how everything in the universe whirls, from the smallest particles to the Earth and beyond.

♪ By whirling, the dervish “goes with the cosmic flow.” ♪ Mevlana's teaching is all about love and finding that elusive “oneness.” With one hand symbolically reaching up to their heavenly creator, and the other, like a fountain, showering that love on all of creation, the dervish meditates on how they can be a conduit of God's love.

♪ ♪ To get a fuller appreciation for Istanbul, it's important to leave the Old Town and explore the lively, more modern neighborhoods.

For the visitor, Istanbul's central tram line laces together the most interesting sightseeing areas.

While often packed, it zips directly through the middle of town fast, unaffected by the frequent traffic jams.

♪ My friend and co-author of our Istanbul guidebook, Lale Sürmen Aran, is joining us as we ride over the Galata Bridge.

Rather than fighting traffic, Lale knows to stick with the tram as we head into the new town and the place where everyone seems to be heading-- Taksim Square, Istanbul's contemporary heart.

♪ Taksim Square is a major transportation hub and gives us a good taste of modern Istanbul.

The traffic circles a statue that celebrates the father of modern Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.

If Turkey is Western-looking today, you can thank this man.

In the 19th century, the Ottoman Empire was in a state of decline.

Its nickname?

The "sick man of Europe."

Following Germany in World War I and therefore losing, the decrepit old empire was swept away.

And from its remnants arose the modern Republic of Turkey, founded in 1923 by Atatürk.

The monument shows the two sides of Atatürk-- the military hero of the War of Independence and civilian Atatürk, the first president of modern Turkey, surrounded by figures representing the proclamation of the Republic.

[Trolley bell dinging] Nearby, a colorful trolley travels the length of the city's main shopping boulevard, İstiklal Caddesi, or Independent Street.

Offering a parade of local culture, it was born after a devastating fire in 1870.

The Ottoman government took the opportunity to rebuild the area as a showpiece of the European style.

The message?

Look west.

The fine old architecture is a reminder that this street was home to the city's Europe-oriented elite back in the 19th century.

Even today, Istanbul's churches and foreign consulates are in this district.

It's just teeming with people.

[Chuckling] I love to lose myself in this river of humanity.

And it's lined with shopping temptations.

This fine shop sells silk scarves, made in Turkey, of course.

[Shopkeeper] ...Turkish designs with the tulips.

-Tulip is the Turkish flower.

-Rick: That's great.

This pattern is so beautiful.

Rick: Turks know how to spiff up their look with a scarf, around the neck or as a head covering.

And if you want to go to the mosque, which scarf would you wear, and how would you wear it?

If I went to mosque, I wear the long one.

Rick: Uh-huh.

-Like this.

It's enough for me, like this.

Rick: So, you say, enough for you.

Every woman will choose how much modesty?

-Of course, of course.

If she's religious, also, she can wear like this in square one, for example.

-If she's very religious... -Yeah.

Yeah, yeah.

She can put a pin here.

Then she do it like this.

-Rick: Okay.

-She can put it here.

Rick: So this is an accessory to cover the hair.

Shopkeeper: Yes.

Rick: So true to the culture and easy to pack.

A silk scarf makes a nice souvenir.

♪ And the street offers an enticing parade of taste treats.

"Döner” means “revolving,” and you know why when tempted by a döner kebab.

You can try the sesame rings, called " simit ," along with your tiny Turkish vocabulary.

[Speaking Turkish] Rick, voiceover: "One ring, please."

♪ And for a fast meal with no language barrier, ever-present cafeteria-style restaurants offer a can-can of fresh and traditional Turkish food.

♪ You'll choose from a range of classic Turkish dishes.

I'm having cabbage rolls, lamb chops, and potatoes... and something I always look forward to, my go-to yogurt drink here in Turkey, ayran , and my favorite dessert, rice pudding, or sütlaç.

But on this street, rice pudding is just the first of many sweet temptations.

Popping into this baklava bakery, it's hard to resist such a festival of honey-soaked delights.

Rick: Hey, look at this.

Rick, voiceover: Generations of local chocolate salesmen have worked this little station, peddling a variety of Turkish treats.

Rick: There's a lot of different flavors.

Lale: Yes, we have hazelnuts and pistachios and dark chocolate and milk chocolate.

Rick, voiceover: Today, Lale loves to give samples.

Lale: Okay, this is the pistachio we're tasting now.

-Rick: This is this one?

-Yes.

Rick: What do you like best?

-Both.

-[Rick laughs] Everything's good.

Rick, voiceover: And to really earn your dessert, try getting some ice cream from this guy.

[Rick laughing] Vendor: Yes... ♪ He's from Kahramanmaraş, a town in southeast Turkey, famous for its toffee-like ice cream.

While delicious, it doesn't come easy... for anyone.

[Vendor exclaiming] Rick: I want chocolate!

[Laughing] [Vendor speaking Turkish] Aah... [Rick laughing] Rick: Ah!

Vendor: Um.

Ah... Oh... [Laughs] That's nice.

Thank you.

[Trolley bell dinging] ♪ Every day, over a million people in Istanbul commute between Asia and Europe.

Some take the five-minute subway ride through the underwater tunnel, while others catch a ferry for a more scenic intercontinental commute.

♪ An array of ferries cross the Bosphorus every few minutes and cost less than a buck.

And a memorable way for a tourist to experience this city's urban energy is to join the locals for a 20-minute cruise to Asian Istanbul.

♪ The city of Üsküdar, on the Asian side, is now a suburb of Istanbul.

While bustling and modern today, it also has a traditional religious feel.

In the Ottoman era, it was the gathering and departure place for pilgrims and caravans heading to Mecca.

Taking a stroll along its waterfront promenade or through its family-friendly parks, you'll notice a more conservative lifestyle.

Oh, fresh fish.

Rick, voiceover: The marketplace offers a cultural scavenger hunt and plenty of ways to nibble on even more of Turkey's endless array of taste treats.

Rick: Oh, dates.

I love dates.

How do you say "date" in Turkish?

-Lale: Hurma .

- Hurma .

In Ramadan, it's traditional we break the fast with a hurma .

Try it.

So, this is how we break fast?

-Yes.

-Happy breakfast.

Mmm.

Oh, yeah.

And there's a beautiful variety.

[Vendor yelling in Turkish] Rick: So, these are grape leaves?

Lale: Yes, they are grape leaves and we use these for rolled grape leaves.

Rick: So you buy a whole bundle?

Lale: They will sell by the weight.

Rick: What would you put inside?

Mainly rice, onion, and seasonings, sometimes with meat, too.

Beautiful.

Look at that.

-Nice.

[Laughs] -[Lale laughs] Yeah?

♪ Lale: Rick, this is phyllo.

We use this to make börek .

It's pastry.

We make it both savory and sweet.

These ones I'm buying, I'm going to use with cheese and parsley, and it will be a savory pastry.

Rick: Can I come over?

[Laughs] Lale: You're welcome.

It looks so good.

That's the delicacy.

The best fish of Istanbul, turbot.

Rick: Turbot?

Lale: Yes, it's the finest fish of Bosphorus.

And these are horse mackerel and anchovy, the cheapest protein you can buy.

Rick: There.

My goodness, they're beautiful.

I love olives.

Look, so many different varieties.

Different regions, different kinds.

-And different cures.

-[Vendor speaking Turkish] -Lale: Why don't you try one?

-Yeah, and where is this from?

Lale: South Turkey, Antioch.

Naturally grown.

Rick: It's great to have a selection, you know?

Mmm.

And what is this?

Lale: This is from the Sea of Marmara, Edremit.

Rick: The Sea of Marmara.

Oh, that's really good.

Let's get a mix.

A little of that and a little of that in a little bag.

[Lale speaking Turkish] ♪ Rick, voiceover: Back on the waterfront, I enjoy the view from Asia across the Bosphorus back to Europe, marveling at this extraordinary city.

Istanbul.

It's fast-changing, yet strangely timeless.

Truly one of Europe's great cities.

And for me, it never gets old.

Soaring domes... spinning carpets... whirling prayers... churning harbor.

It's an endless promenade that broadens my perspective.

The city's both rooted in tradition and modern-facing as it navigates the challenges of today.

The richness of Istanbul's culture, diversity, and heritage is seen in the faces of its people.

This is today's Turkey, a melting pot of ethnic groups-- Turk, Kurd, Armenian, Jew, Gypsy, Georgian, Greek, and more-- and styles, from the very traditional to the very latest.

♪ The city remains a crossroads of humanity.

♪ And, according to the Turkish proverb, every guest is a gift from God.

Istanbul bridges East and West.

With a complex weave of modern affluence, Western secularism, and traditional Muslim faith, it's a dynamic city filled with delights.

Thanks for joining us.

I'm Rick Steves.

Until next time, keep on travelin'.

Perhaps the most historic and certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in.

And certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in.

But certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in-- Istanbul.

Thanks for joining us.

-Um...um... -[Laughing] [Laughing] Mmm.

That's good ice cream.

♪ [Door clanging shut] ♪