- Just ahead on Black Issues Forum, Black hair has been the center of controversy for far too long, but we're taking back the narrative and embracing our natural locks while getting down to the root of it all.

- For too long, Black girls have been discriminated against and criminalized for the hair that grows on our heads and the way we move through and show up in this world.

No more.

- Stay with us.

- [Announcer] Quality public television is made possible through the financial contributions of viewers like you, who invite you to join them in supporting PBS NC.

[upbeat music] ♪ - Welcome to Black Issues Forum.

I'm your host, Kenia Thompson.

It's not a new thing that Black women and men have had to defend our hair.

It's been a controversy for such a long time.

And recently, the newly adopted CROWN Act was created to silence those offending voices.

But yet and still, here we are today talking about it again because reality is we haven't found a safe space to be who we are from head to toe.

I wanna welcome our first guest to the show.

She's been working hard to create a safe space of acceptance among young Black girls, founding Black Girls for Liberation Collective.

We welcome Brittani Clark.

- Thank you, good morning.

- Good morning.

How are you?

- Thanks for having me.

I'm doing well, thank you.

- Good.

So let's share with the audience, what is Black Girls Liberation?

Remind me again.

- Black Girls Liberation Collective.

- Yes.

- Yes.

So Black Girls for Liberation is a Durham-based nonprofit, and we focus on working with adolescent Black girls for cultural identity development to address some of the very issues, like how we wear our hair and the acceptance and being able to have tools to resist the type of discrimination that's faced because of that.

And so we look at matters of identity because during the stage of adolescence, this is where youth are asking questions about: Who am I?

Who can I connect with?

And trying to find those groups where they can be affirmed.

And so, the purpose of the Black Girls for Liberation Space is to allow them to do that work where they can show up as their full selves and build positive relationships with one another, and then also get some historical context for their cultural identity.

Right?

- [Kenia] Very important.

- Because while we love our locks, our braids, all of our wonderful hairstyles, there is some historical, like there are some traditions of Black hair.

- [Kenia] Yes.

- That Black girls may not be privy to, right?

And so I think in addition to loving and embracing their natural hair, there's also this heightened appreciation when they learn about how important and how pivotal certain hairstyles are in the Black community.

- Was there a catalyst to starting this or... - So when I think about how I came to this work, I think about there are three seeds, right?

So on the one hand, I have daughters and thinking about this particular stage of adolescence.

I had a daughter who was moving into the middle school phase and thinking about some of the issues that she was being faced with at school.

And then also, I was in the classroom for over 10 years.

And in my most recent role, I was working in middle schools.

So also recognizing the need because of the observations that I had and the relationships that I was building with Black girls in those spaces and recognizing they needed a separate space where they could thrive.

- [Kenia] Right.

- And then lastly, thinking about my role in the community, working with organizations where we were looking for youth-centered and youth-serving orgs to put in front of families.

And that there was a lack in terms of a space that was specifically for Black girls.

- You know, in doing research for this, I learned that CROWN actually stands for something.

And it stands for creating respectful and more open world, a respectful and more open world for natural hair.

We've heard a lot of things in the news.

Do you think that we've accomplished this?

- So... - Are we on the brink of accomplishing it?

- I'm like, there's always, you know, we have to acknowledge the steps that we've taken forward, but also it's not a one size fits all, or it's not like a blanket solution.

Because even as more states are passing the CROWN Act, students are still facing discrimination, right?

So like, Texas just passed a CROWN Act resolution earlier in 2023.

But then there's a student currently who is being faced with suspension for having locks, right?

So... - Right.

Yeah, so there's a lot of work that you're doing behind CROWN Act.

This week in particular is CROWN Act Week.

And so share with us some of the community work that you're hoping to do, not just during this week, but moving forward as well.

- So leading up to this week that we're in CROWN Act Week, we had a book club that was running the whole month.

And we were partnering with some organizations within Durham public schools to affirm and think about like what it means to embrace different parts of yourself, utilizing the text, "Dear Black girl, equip, empower, and enlighten."

- [Kenia] Yes.

- And yes, just last night, there was an event that Durham Public Schools hosted in celebrating CROWN Equity because each day this week there was a, it was Spirit week, so it was embracing different hairstyles, different hair textures, and different hair stories.

And so there was a culminating event that took place last night where we had different performances, readings, panels, and intergenerational panels speaking about Black hair.

And then tomorrow we will be having a community event where we'll have some facilitation around hair braiding workshops.

So getting to learn, and the community gets to come out and learn about different hair braiding techniques, different hair care techniques.

And then also, there will be a mental health workshop, led by a school counselor who's now in a private practice.

Because one thing I think we don't talk about enough is like the discrimination that comes around with hair discrimination.

That has a mental impact, right?

And so what does it look like to have some conversation around that and develop some tools to think about how to cope with this ongoing experience that many of our Black girls and Black boys are having.

- And for those that may be watching a replay or watching it after March 2nd is the event, which is tomorrow for us.

- [Brittani] Yes.

- But there'll be more events going on as well too.

[Brittani coughs] You talked about discrimination, and I wanna emphasize that this doesn't just happen to Black girls, but this also happens to Black boys.

- [Brittani] Absolutely.

- I'll get our folks to pop up this B-roll here of a young man, a wrestler I believe, who was getting his locks cut on the court.

And he, you could see in his face that he's visibly disturbed.

It's impactful.

And when we talk about that embarrassment, that discrimination, what do we do in those situations?

How do we handle this situation, number one?

And there are many folks there that could have been allies, right?

To prevent this from going any further.

How do we act in these situations?

- I think that's like an ongoing conversation that I don't necessarily have the solutions to, right?

Because when I think about that, or when I watch that video, I do think about people being able to step in and advocate on his behalf to say that this is unacceptable.

That these locks aren't hindering him from his performance at all.

Right, whether it's on the mat in wrestling, on the court for basketball, or in the classroom for learning, right?

Someone's hair, particularly when we think about the way that it naturally grows out of their scalp, it's not hindering them from being able to engage in any activities, especially learning.

And so I think that there just needs to be more vocal outrage and allyship around this matter because I think when we think about the expression of how students, how children, how us as individuals choose to show up, hair is a big part of that, right?

And so there's something that is being taken away and stripped away of identity when those instances happen, and particularly when they happen on a public platform, right?

Like, he's literally in the middle of a wrestling match and his hair is being cut.

And so I think it goes, it's a much deeper issue than just the kind of physical outward cutting of hair.

- Right, and later on in the show, we'll talk to a loctician that will kind of talk to us about the history of our hair, and really the spiritual connection that happens with our hair.

But I think a lot of people, non-people of color, see our hair as something to be adored and glamorized, and, you know, we have the whole don't touch my hair unless you ask conversation.

I guess the question I'm trying to ask is, are we seen as like these magical people that have this different kinda hair that grows from their head?

Is that where this fascination comes from, you think?

Or, I mean, I've experienced before where someone has asked me, can I wash my hair after locking it most recently?

And does it smell?

- Yeah.

- Right?

And so part of me said, well, this is a moment of lack of education, some ignorance, and honestly just blatant disrespect who would ask a person that question.

And so what responsibility do others have in those kind of engagements, and what responsibility do I have because I didn't know what to say?

I didn't know what to say.

- Yeah, I think there's a huge responsibility on non-Black individuals, particularly because there's a long history of objectification of blackness, right?

And so, or the [stutters].

- It's a fetish.

- Fetish, right?

So fetishizing blackness, and so most recently around hair, right?

So there are the, you know, even I've had experiences with my daughters in terms of like, they have locks, right?

And so it's just like, can I touch their hair?

Or how do you get their hair?

So similar experiences, and so I think that it's not necessarily our responsibility to, you know, indulge or say, you know, like, feel inclined to allowing that to happen, but I think it's a responsibility of those who are kind of doing this fetishizing to one, learn, right?

Educate themselves, but then also when you think about like human decency or interaction, thinking about like if this person, if this was not a Black person, would I still have the same type of just gall to go up to them and ask them, or sometimes not even ask, right?

Just to go and touch their hair and like, you know, be so intrigued.

- And that's just a matter of personal space, right?

You wouldn't go up to a stranger, and well, hopefully not, be in their personal space, let alone touch a part of their body.

- Mm-hmm.

- Yeah.

- Yeah, so that's what I mean about the like, just kind of like objectifying, like, they're not human.

Like, they don't have these same boundaries that you would yourself also expect, and so I think it is a huge responsibility, particularly because we've seen so many instances of it, right?

We have songs about like, not touching my hair.

Like, this is a serious matter.

And so I think we should just, those who non-Black folks should just be paying more attention to that.

- Yeah, no, I agree, and I think, you know, we hate to always connect things to slavery, but I do think it's greatly connected to that time, right?

Of just not seeing us as human, not seeing us as people, and therefore, not respecting our bodies.

Let's talk back to Black Girls for Liberation Collective.

Let's talk about some of the plans you have.

So you've just started this organization, it's at its infancy stages, which you've already done so much.

Talk about what your hope is for the group and for the impact that it'll have.

- Yeah, definitely.

So I think as we continue to, one, gather the girls, draw these connections, historical connections, and help them enhance and feel more affirmed in their identities, right?

I think the hope is that they are able to take the tools and strategies that they learn in this Black girls liberation space to be able to navigate the world, right?

Because even though, you know, we focus a lot on the issues that are happening in school and then kind of like across media, there's still these interactions in these other spaces they have to exist in, and the goal is to kind of equip them with the tools to one, feel affirmed and confident in who they are, and not feel the need to change that depending on the different spaces that they enter, but then also have the language to speak back, right?

And have some historical context for the systems that have been set up to harm them, right?

And that oppress them regarding their intersecting identities, right?

So they're girls, they're Black, they're adolescents, and they're just, you know, socioeconomic, like, there are a number of things that are impacting their day-to-day experiences, right?

So I just want to, one, expose them to that in a safe and and intentional environment.

You know, one that looks from an asset space lens versus a deficit one because the exposure is different.

And so if they are exposed to something through a deficit lens, it's almost like they're being problematized, as opposed to looking at these different processes and systems and policies that are set up that cause the harm, and so I think that's important.

Even when we think about, you know, the CROWN Act resolutions.

Like, what are the policies that schools, school districts have that harm students, particularly Black children?

So those are my hopes.

And the major outcomes for the girls that exist in the Black Girls for Liberation space.

- That's beautiful.

If we've got viewers who want to support, how would they reach out?

- So we have a website, blackgirlsforliberation.com, and there we post not only our mission and vision, but the work that we do, different community workshops that we have, like the event that's happening tomorrow, March 2, where we'll be having a summer camp.

So for those who are in the RTP area who wish to sign their daughters up, that would be a wonderful way to get them to kind of, like, enter and get to know the Black Girls for Liberation space.

And, you know, we have our social media.

So Instagram, we're @bgflcollective, that's our handle, and then Black Girls for Liberation on Facebook.

- Wonderful, thank you so much.

Brittani Clark, Black Girls for Liberation.

Make sure you go find her, find the website, and support as much as you can.

- Thank you so much for having me.

- Thank you.

Well, over the decades our hair has evolved and taken a life of its own.

Here's this week's Melanin Moment and a look at Black hair throughout the decades.

[serene music] Since the beginning of time, where the Pharaohs of Egypt ruled with divine authority, Black hair tells a tale of beauty, resilience, and creativity.

Great Nubian kingdoms, whose braids were not just a fashion statement, but a symbol of strength and unity, adorned their heads with elaborate styles.

Amidst the hardships of slavery, Black hair became a beacon of cultural pride and resistance.

As freedom broke, so did a new era of expression.

From the soulful melodies of Motown to the revolutionary fervor of the Black Panthers, our hair became a canvas for self-expression and empowerment.

Today, Black hair continues to defy boundaries and redefine beauty standards with every twist, braid, and curl.

[electronic dance musiC] Since the early 2000s, we've seen a rapid growth of natural hair movement and even more so in natural hair salons.

I, myself, in 2012 started my loc journey after the birth of my daughter in search for a deeper connection to hair that represented my cultural identity.

A person who was an integral piece in that decision and my loc journey is loc specialist and natural hair instructor, as well as the owner of Locs Naturals and More in Garner, North Carolina, Kentrell Perry.

- Hey, what's up, family?

- Welcome to the show!

It's been over a decade- - It has.

- We have been on this journey together - [Kentrell] And we still are.

- So, I mean, I remember when I was looking to make this decision, I was actually hesitant because I didn't know how people would receive me.

And there weren't very many choices back then, as far as salons to choose from or specialists to choose from and thankfully you weren't far from where I live.

And I said, "let's come in and do a consultation" and from there you convinced me, and part of that convincing was embracing of myself and who I am.

And I've never looked back.

I have enjoyed the journey so much.

Talk about what it was like creating a space like that in a time where it wasn't quite embraced, we were just on the brink of natural hair.

- Well, I like to start off...

I love this book.

It's called "Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America."

And everything I really want to talk about is summed up in this first paragraph.

"The story of Black people's hair begins where everything began, in Africa.

Not surprisingly, the birthplace of both astronomy and alchemy also gave rise to a people in perfect harmony with their environment.

Indeed, the dense, spiraling curls of African hair demonstrate evolutionary genius.

Like natural air conditioning, the frizzy, kinky hair insulates the head from the brutal intensity of the sun rays.

Of course, there is not one single type of African hair, just as there is not one single type of African.

The variety of hair testers from Western Africa alone ranges from deep ebony kinks from the Mandingos to the loosely curled, flowing locs of the Ashanti.

The one constant Africans share when it comes to hair is their social and cultural significance intrinsic to each beautiful strand.

- Mm, I love that.

- And so, y'know, Locs Naturals and More was started in the early '90s and if you kind of rewind the tape a little bit, you think about Erykah Badu, and just how normal, you know, that 1990s Erykah Badu seems now, but back then- - It was rebellious!

- It was rebellious, right?

And so it was really this grassroots movement of knowing thyself, of embracing the journey, of going through a significant process to find the preciousness in you, to know thyself.

And so as above, so below, so within, so without.

What's happening in your external is representing what's happening in your internal.

And so it is a natural expression for you to show that journey within your hair and you start to learn to love yourself and start to learn that you want to be authentic.

You know, your locs are uniquely yours.

It's like your fingerprint.

And so my mother was a part of revolutionary time period and she really wanted to create a space for women and men to be able to be supported because, you know, your family wouldn't support it, your colleagues wouldn't support it, your friends wouldn't support it, 'cause they didn't understand about what you were doing.

I mean, because most people aren't taking that journey to know the self even more.

And so then when you're starting to express that, you're a mutant and you started to de-puff from the Matrix.

And so she really wanted to create a space where it was a safe haven for individuals that were looking to start that journey.

That's the reason why our slogan is "naturally embracing the journey".

- Mm hmm, I love it.

And when you walk into this space, it's beautiful, right, and I know that you've gone through an iteration of it.

We started- - [Kentrell] Ooh child, it's been a journey!

- Down the block, but that's the growth too, right?

That's the intentional connection to who we are.

And so when you walk in, there's the more part I think is what's really important.

- [Kentrell] Mm hm.

- [Kenia] We know Locs Naturals, but the "more" part is that spiritual identity, that connection, that understanding to self.

I love what you read.

Let's expound on that a little bit more.

In our melanin moment, we saw the historical connection to how our hair was a long time ago.

This is nothing new.

- Yeah.

We're just finally re-embracing that because we're embracing ourselves.

So talk about that historical connection and then the spiritual connection.

- I love this, I love this subject.

[Kenia laughing] And... because of colonialism we have lost the cultural and spiritual significance behind the expression of our hair.

Your hair, we think all... we think that we're just coming up with all of these different methods of us doing our hair, but it is ingrained inside of you to express yourself that way.

There's... in science, they have a piece to talk about junk DNA and they don't understand what it is 'cause it doesn't contribute to you having your great-grandmother's nose.

But inside of there, I believe is where the imprint, the maps, the templates of your ancestors have left.

- Yeah.

- And so why would you, we all just said about, that immediate reaction of like, don't touch my hair.

Or you only want certain people to touch your hair.

There is a reason why when you sit inside of the hairdresser's chair where you want to confess.

- [Kenia] Yeah.

- See, we believe, and this is... hundreds of thousands of years that we would... have so much adornment towards your crown that it would be the closest thing to God, that it would, we would be aligning your spiritual antennas.

That's where anointed oils come from.

You would let us know what you have going on.

We would do our alchemy.

Where that's where the wand comes from, from our duafe comb and us having different affirmations inside of there.

And then we would, it would be this real important process of us detangling your hair and then we would do sacred geometry.

'Cause we're astronomists, right?

- Yes.

And so, the braids are all... again, sacred geometry where we will be putting these complex codes inside of your hair.

It's the same exact thing.

See, why do you, why do we think that we were able to put maps on our heads to help us get the freedom?

- [Kenia] Mm.

- Right?

- Now that's a whole nother conversation.

- Come on, come on.

- We only have a couple minutes left.

- Sorry, yes please.

- No, it's great.

I mean this deserves so much more time.

But I do want people to know what you're doing in community before we- - Absolutely.

- End the show.

- Yeah, so because the hair, the salon is such a hub of community activity and it's a responsibility of the leader of that establishment to make sure that we are giving back to the community.

So, we're, we emphasize a lot in our salon about wellness.

So, we have different yoga classes.

We provide alkaline, plant-based food, juices.

We're always doing something, some type of community service where as to be a community garden, trash pickup, et cetera.

And you'll be able to... participate with us with looking at our non-profit website, it's called evercenter.org.

Also Locs Naturals and More to be updated about the different things that we help doing for the community.

- Indeed, So Ever Center?

- Evercenter.org.

- Dot org.

- Yeah.

Wonderful, and then if folks wanna reach out to would they go through that website?

- They'll go through that website and then if you've raised to book an appointment, then it's LocsNaturalsandmore.com - Exactly.

- Yep.

Well, Kentrell, it is just been such a pleasure as always.

I mean, we've had these conversations in the shop for years now.

- Yeah.

- And it's always great to find that center within, not just our hair, but within an identity of ourselves that we embrace.

So thank you so much.

- Well, thank you for entrusting me and it is looking good.

- Thank you.

Thank you very much.

Thank you, well, thank you so much for being here.

And we thank you for watching.

If you want more content like this, we invite you to engage with us on Instagram using the hashtag black issues forum.

You can also find our full episodes on pbsnc.org/blackissuesforum and on the PBS video app.

I'm Kenia Thompson, I'll see you next time.

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