- In this episode of "Fly Brother," we get the royal treatment in the capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur, India.

We start off when my good buddy Anuj Tyagi brings me into his home with a welcome fit for a god, where he also gets me some new threads and then takes me on a tour of the city, visiting palaces, temples, and even haggling a bit down at the bazaar before sitting down to a meal fit for a Maharaja.

It's threads, jewels, and a whole lot of spice in the Pink City.

Let's get fly.

(airplane whooshes) (chill music) I'm Ernest White II, storyteller, explorer.

Don't try this at home.

I believe in connecting across backgrounds and boundaries.

Join me and my friends.

Just like home.

And discover that no matter the background, no matter the history, the whole world is our tribe.

(chill music continues) This is fun.

Come with me.

See how my friends do?

"Fly Brother."

- [Announcer] Major funding for this program is provided by... (calm music) (uplifting music) (upbeat Hindustani music) - Jaipur is the corner of India's golden tourist triangle that sparkles with gems and crackles with creative energy.

There's beauty and color almost everywhere you turn here.

(upbeat Hindustani music continues) The city's blend of Hindu, Mughal, and Western influences helped make it a UNESCO World Heritage site, but Jaipur is also a growing IT center and a hub for contemporary artists and entrepreneurs.

Travelers and shoppers alike come here for treasures and tastes they won't find anywhere else.

And I'm ready to explore it all with my filmmaker friend, Anuj Tyagi.

(horns honk) Don't try this at home.

Hey, Anuj, how you doing, man?

- Brother.

- Oh my God, this is breathtaking.

- Welcome to our pink, warm, beautiful, and noisy Jaipur.

- So I almost got killed running across the street.

I guess that's what you do here.

Is that it?

- I saw you, (Ernest laughs) and I was worried, but I love your confidence, the way you were like juggling there.

I'm impressed.

- I appreciate it.

Thank you.

What is the story of this building?

It's like a cake.

(laughs) It's so beautiful.

- That's the first time I heard that connotation that it looks like a cake.

It does actually.

So it's called Hawa Mahal And there was a reason I called you here.

There are a lot of significance.

First, it represent India.

And the real story is that the building you are standing on, there is a Krishna temple.

- Here in this building a Krishna temple?

- In this building, exactly underneath us.

And the deity is facing right Hawa Mahal.

All the queens, they were not supposed to or allowed come out.

So do you see all the green windows?

- Yes.

- In the morning, in the evening, they used to look at deity and used to worship right from there.

So that's another significance.

- Okay, so this is a holy spot.

- Yes, it is, it is.

- There's a lot of noise in the streets.

Is that just because I'm here?

Is it here to welcome me, all the sounds of the city?

- I arranged everything, all these drums and everything.

It's only for you, Ernest.

Believe me, it's only for you.

(rhythmic drumming) (horns honk) (upbeat Hindustani music) - But not too far away from the urban crush is a beautiful oasis, Anuj's house, and my home away from home.

Ooh, hey, hey, (claps) we're here.

- Welcome home.

- Hey.

And to say that he's a generous host is an understatement.

- You like it?

- I love it, man.

(laughs) - Good, come on in.

Come on, welcome.

- Okay.

- Welcome, buddy.

- Hey, man, thank you.

- This is... whew.

- Welcome to home.

- I'm already excited.

(laughs) This is so lush and green here.

- It is.

(rhythmic music) And we have some surprises for you.

- A serious understatement.

(rhythmic music continues) (rhythmic music continues) Oh, (claps) thank you so much.

Oh my gosh, that was such a wonderful welcome.

Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you.

Anuj, please explain to me the intricacies of this beautiful and like impactful welcome.

- We treat our guests like gods.

So you are.

You are our god right now.

- Received, received.

(laughs) - Thank you, thank you.

We call it (indistinct).

It's welcoming with drums, with happiness.

There are a lot of stories behind it, but the story I love is that there was a dacoit called Bawariya.

- Now what's dacoit?

- Dacoit, people like Robin Hood.

- Okay, so kind of like a people's hero.

- People's hero.

- But he was also a thief.

- Yes.

- Okay.

- So he used to go and extract money from capitalists and rich people.

- Okay.

- And he used to distribute to poors.

And when he used to go to small towns, small villages to poors, they used to welcome him like that.

So they used to feel him like a god, like a hero, yes.

- Well, I enjoy the idea of receiving large amounts of money and resources and helping others to enjoy that lucre.

- There you go.

- Yes.

And so what's now on my face?

What's gracing my visage currently?

- So basically we call it tilak.

In the morning when we go to temples, we put that tilak on gods first and then to ourselves.

The significance is to concentrate.

So whenever you go for work, the tilak makes you concentrate that what you're going to do all day, but for guests, it's the honor.

It's the respect.

- All right, I love it, man.

(laughs) - Yes, yes, yes.

- What else do we have?

- Let's go inside and we'll figure it out.

- Let's do it.

It's a bit warm.

- Yes, a bit warm.

Welcome again.

- Oh, thank you.

Now that my forehead has been graced with honor and respect, Anuj has a plan to upgrade my wardrobe too.

This brother takes hospitality to a whole new level.

- Did you like it?

- I loved it, man.

Thank you.

What's next then?

- The next is, do you remember that I asked you for your measurements?

- Yes.

- Do you know why?

- Well, I assumed that'd be having some sort of garments made.

Is that correct?

- That is correct.

- To measure.

- To measure, and they are ready, my friend.

- All right, well let's see 'em.

(magic twinkle) Oh, beautiful.

They are beautiful.

- I wanted to make sure that you look as us.

- So you wanted me to look like I belonged here?

- Yes, that's that's correct.

- That's right.

- I receive that, Anuj.

Thank you very much.

- There you go.

- All right, thank you.

I don't know what I should wear first.

- You know what, it's your choice.

You change and surprise me.

- All right, I guess everybody will be surprised, won't they?

(laughs) (camera clicks) Jaipur is the capital and the biggest city in the state of Rajasthan in Northwestern India.

In Sanskrit, its name means the City of Jai, a tribute to the remarkable man who built Jaipur in 1727, Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh.

Singh was a prominent warrior and enlightened ruler and a passionate astronomer, as well as an urban planner.

With mathematicians and architects, he designed Jaipur from the ground up as a modern commercial city.

Back then, special streets and markets were set aside for artists and craftspeople.

And today, Jaipur is still a worldwide shopping destination for jewelry, fabric, and enamel work, and you can explore it all in the rosy glow of the city's legendary palaces, one for every day of the week with a few to spare.

(camera clicks) (relaxed Hindustani music) Now that I'm dressed like a local, it's time to head back to the heart of Jaipur.

Fortunately, I'm leaving the driving to Anuj and his treasured antique, his grandfather's army jeep.

It's bustling.

- It is.

It is a bustling city.

- So what I read is that Jaipur, it's the largest city here in Rajasthan.

- That is correct.

- And in the top 10 in India.

- Yes, and it's the capital of the state Rajasthan.

- [Ernest] Mhm.

- So, Ernest, just to let you know, now we are entering - Wow.

- The old city of Jaipur.

You see these big gates?

They have huge significance.

- Mhm, they are gorgeous.

- Thank you.

- Protecting the city.

- Oh my, you got it.

I was about to say.

So in difficult times, in war times at night, they used to shut the doors to protect the city.

(relaxed Hindustani music) - I never asked you, what's the significance of the orange?

- Orange represents Hinduism and simplicity as well and prosperity.

- I like the prosperity part.

- Yes.

- Johri Baazar.

- Johri Bazaar means the market of dwellers.

Do you want to get something for yourself?

I will take you to the main market.

- Okay.

- And I know that you don't hustling and bustling, but really, as a friend, I really want you to experience that.

- The haggling and negotiation that these bazaars are known for.

- Yes, there you go.

- You're forcing me to negotiate.

- I am.

- See how my friends do.

- When in Jaipur.

(relaxed Hindustani music) - Well, okay, so the price is on the the item, isn't it?

- Yes, prices are on items, but you'll find what I mean.

Come on, come on in.

- Okay.

(Anuj speaks Hindi) (relaxed music) Jaipur has been a retail center for centuries with shop selling shoes, ceramics, metal work, embroidery, you name it, and haggling for prices has always been part of the game.

- As you were asking the question about prices, you need to haggle.

- So I'm not a good negotiator when it... Like, I want the one price already there where I don't have to worry about any kind of back and forth.

- I got your back.

You'll love it.

- I'll love it.

- Yes, yes.

- I'll love what?

- You'll love the prices and the haggling and the product.

- Okay.

(laughs) Okay, Anuj.

- Okay, here we go.

So do you like these?

- They're okay.

I mean, they look very well made, but not my style.

- 130.

- I like these ones.

They are- - It's leather, camel leather shoes.

- Camel leather.

- Yeah, leather.

- Mhm.

- And they're more authentic I would say.

- And I kind of love that color.

It's got a little blood red going.

It's passionate.

- So they are basically traditional Rajasthani shoes.

- Okay.

- We call them jutis.

- Jutis.

- Yeah, how much?

- These, 500.

- $50.

- $50.

- Uh huh.

- And do I counter?

- Yes.

- Okay, $15.

(shopkeeper speaks Hindi) - He said no.

(Ernest laughs) Okay.

- $40.

- Well, buddy, he's my friend.

You got to give him a good deal.

For $5.

- For $5?

- Yes.

- Do you like them?

- I love them for $5.

I feel bad about it.

- No, you don't have to.

- Let me 6.50, seven.

This is real camel leather, you all.

$8.

- I can do that.

- Deal?

- Yeah.

- Hey.

(relaxed Hindustani music) Clothes might make the man, but I'm grateful to the camel who completed my Jaipur look with new shoes.

And now they're walking me back to Anuj's for a true taste of the city.

- So how was the city tour?

- It was amazing.

It was beautiful.

It was kind of energizing.

Yeah, a little bit overwhelming (laughs) in a way, but I loved it.

- After spending all that energy, you must be feeling hungry.

- I am famished.

- I have a little surprise for you.

- Okay, I kind of knew you were going to say that though.

- It's a cultural surprise.

- All right.

- Because I know that you respect cultures.

- I try to.

I was raised that way.

- Good.

Do you smell something?

- I smell something cooking.

(laughs) - Yes, yes.

As you're a very special guest, this is not usual.

Just to show you more culture, that's the way we used to cook.

So we cooked three dishes for you today, - In addition to red meat, I see red peppers.

- Yes, but the good thing about these red peppers are they are more for flavor, not for the hotness.

- Okay.

- Yes.

You got to believe me, buddy.

You got to believe.

- (laughs) I believe you.

I trust you, Anuj.

- Okay, okay.

- Okay.

- Thank you.

What I would suggest now go inside, fresh, get more hungry, and then come out.

- Okay, I'm all for getting more hungry.

- There you go.

- (laughs) Let's do it.

- Let's do it, come on in.

- Red chilies are at the top of the spice heap in Rajasthani cuisine, but coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves add delicious flavor.

And since guests are treated like kings here, I'm in for a truly royal feast.

All right, so?

- Here you go, buddy.

- Okay, now, Anuj, I'm only seeing one plate here with all of this spread.

I know you don't expect me to eat all of this.

- Guests are like kings.

So you are a king.

And because I'm serving, I will eat after you.

- Well, see, I feel bad about that.

I mean, there's so much food here.

- I think you'll love it.

You'll finish it.

- I'm sure I'll love it.

I don't know if I'll finish it.

- Start and we'll see.

- All right, let's do it then.

- Yeah.

- Okay, so what are the items here on the table?

- So there are main basically three items.

This is laal maas.

When kings and hunters used to go to jungle to hunt, they used to make it.

And this is gatte ki sabzi.

- Gatte ki sabzi - Yes.

It's basically chickpeas flour, and that gives you horsepower.

- Chickpea flour gives you horsepower.

- Last but not least, this is ker sangri.

You know that Rajasthan is a dry place.

We have a lot of desert.

And so this plant grows in a desert, and we make this, cook this all year long.

And there's this red chutney.

It's made of garlic and red chilis.

It'll be a little hot.

So I just wanted to make sure that you want to have it.

- I mean, I'll have a little.

You know, I'm from the South, - There you go.

- We do hot foods.

(laughs) - Bajre ki roti for you.

- All right, roti.

- Yes.

- Breaking bread.

- Yes.

- I dip.

Okay.

- Indian style.

- I was trying to think of something witty to say, but I can't because it's just so good.

- Mhm.

- I'm going to need a to-go box now.

- No, your stomach is your go box.

So keep eating, buddy.

Keep eating.

(Ernest laughs) - If I keep this up, I won't be able to fit into these fine new threads.

But after these ladies have worked so hard to cook for me, I refuse to let them down.

So, man, what do you love most about Jaipur?

- Well, there are many answers, but my favorite is it's one of the rarest city in India, which keeps its culture, art, history intact to show the world that we are still progressive, yet traditional.

- What are some of the traditions that resonate most with you as someone who's lived around the world, who's got experience as a global citizen, and yet there's still something that kind of resonates with you about Jaipur?

- The kind of respect you get, the kind of love you get when you come home, the kind of care we get, it's unbelievable.

And that's what I enjoy.

That's what I respect.

(calm rhythmic music) - [Ernest] Once I've recovered from lunch, it's time to head out of downtown and onto one of Jaipur's most famous tourist attractions.

- Here we go, Ernest.

- Oh, this is amazing.

- We are in old city of Jaipur, and I want to show you this.

(calm rhythmic music continues) - India's stepwells are architectural wonders, designed to capture water during the rainy season and store it in elegant reservoirs.

Jaipur's Panna Meena ka Kund is about 450 years old and it's still an operation offering fresh water and a chance to sit and socialize in view of its 1,800 steps.

Whew.

- It's a little hot, right?

- It's more than a little.

It's actually not that hot, but it's very humid.

- Humid.

- I grew up in this kind of humidity.

I'm not as out shape as one might think.

- No, you are not at all.

We are at the backyard of Amer Fort.

Amer Fort is the most significant fort and monument of Jaipur.

King of Jaipur, Raja Jai Singh, used to live here.

We are basically out of the city, out of the palace.

And he built this for local people around the fort and especially people who used to travel out and in Jaipur.

- Okay, so it was a kind of a hotel, if you will.

It was like an inn.

- Inn.

The name of the place is Meena Panna Kund and many stories behind it, but the story I love is that there was a minister who used to represent a very big Rajasthani community called Meena, and people say that he died for Raja Jai Singh.

So in his memory, he built this, and people used to come here, stay here.

Local people used to use water for temples.

As you can see, we are surrounded with beautiful old temples here.

And offering water in our culture is one of the best thing you can do to anyone.

- It's a form of service.

- Yes.

- So a public service?

- It's a public service, basically, yes.

Jaipur has so many significant monuments and forts and small forts, but these kind of hidden gems, people never knew.

But I'm happy that people are coming and enjoying history, which is important to know.

- Of course, of course, and it can be enjoyable.

It doesn't always have to be a lesson in the sense of like I'm chiding you with information.

- Absolutely.

- I'm sharing with you the beauty of our past and the ways that, you know, we're all kind of here to experience them.

- Yes, yes.

- [Ernest] The beauties of the past are everywhere in Jaipur, but they're not just relics.

They're part of people's daily lives.

The Bihari Ji temple across the street was built in the early 17th century, and people still come here for blessings and devotion from Lord Ganesha.

- As you can see that it's very old temple, very significant to locals here.

Every morning they come, they do the same rituals they used to do in medieval centuries.

It looks a little dilapidated, which shows it's old, but still, people still come here and do their part.

- Not all of Jaipur's treasures come from the past.

Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh didn't just want the city to look beautiful.

He wanted it to make beautiful things too.

He invited jewelers from all over India to set up shop here, and they needed raw material to work with.

So Jaipur began importing precious stones from around the world and turning them into fabulous jewelry.

(gentle music) Anuj's good friend, Mujhahid, and his family are continuing that tradition.

So it's time to check out some bling.

(laughs) Oh, this is cool.

(Anuj speaks Hindi) - Oh, hello.

How are you?

- Hey, doing well.

Thank you.

How are you?

- Ernest, my friend.

- Lovely to meet you.

- Our pleasure.

(Mujhahid speaks Hindi) - Very good, very good.

- How are you, (indistinct)?

- I'm very, very, very good, and I'm very, very well now after seeing you after so long.

Ernest, Mujhahid is a very, very, very good friend.

He's like a brother.

- Ah, lovely.

- And he is expert of emerald, as you can see here.

- I see a lot of stones.

I see a lot of green.

What is the story of emeralds here in India?

Why are emeralds, particularly in Jaipur, important?

- So Jaipur is mostly for cutting, polishing, famous all over world.

I am not talking about India.

We are talking about all over world.

We import raw material from Zambia, Colombia, different mines, and raw material comes, then we cutting, then we shape, then we polish, then our jewelry, beautiful jewelry comes.

- So they come in as rocks and they leave as jewelry.

- Yeah, yeah, yeah.

See like this, this we say is a cabochon.

- Cabochon.

- Yeah, it's a plain one.

- Now how much am I holding?

What's the value of this?

Am I holding a million dollars in my hands?

- No, it is not a million dollar.

This is depend on quality.

- Sure, color.

- And purity and colors.

See, this is the big one, but this is little cheaper quality.

If you want to know, okay, Mujha, I buy this one, how much on this one?

So this one cheaper quality.

This comes 10,000 rupee.

This comes like 40,000 rupees.

- Mm.

- So just for idea, I can show you like this.

See?

- Oh, wow.

- Yeah, this the real ruby faceted.

This one is a green emerald.

This is a fluorite.

Now is ready for selling all over world for jewelry.

This is our family business, generation to generation.

My father, my forefathers, and in my family, everybody is manufacturers.

- And now his whole generation, his son and his daughter are pursuing the business.

- Okay, so it comes from way back, and it's going into the future.

- Yes.

- Yep.

(relaxed music) - [Ernest] Honoring the past and carrying tradition forward are hallmarks of Jaipur, a place where creativity and innovation thrive alongside monuments to another time.

If Sawai Ja Singh were alive, it's a good bet he'd be pretty impressed to see his city bustling with people who appreciate his vision and who know a good thing when they see it.

(relaxed music continues) - [Announcer] Major funding for this program is provided by... (calm music) (uplifting music) To join the "Fly Brother" Travel Community or to order your own copy of this episode, visit flybrother.com.

(uplifting music)