MICHAEL: Hello and welcome to Ireland with Michael.

I'm Michael Londra and, in this show, I get to tell you everything I love about my home country the best way I know how, through music.

Today, we're on another mad dash across Ireland.

You know, American country music and traditional Irish music are so closely related.

As we begin our race, we borrow a line from Johnny Cash: "I've been everywhere, man.

I've been everywhere."

Here, a song much similar to that is St.

Brendan's Voyage, with the line "ploughed a lonely furrow to north, south, east, and west."

So, let's begin our ping-pong journey together.

Buckle up, take a deep breath, and away we go.

♪ ♪ ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael is made possible by- ♪ ANNOUNCER: The music, the folklore, and the hospitality.

It's all in Ireland.

ANNOUNCER: Since 1932, CIE Tours has welcomed travelers to discover Ireland's rolling green landscapes, cherished traditions, and Irish hospitality, creating memories that last a lifetime.

CIE Tours, where every journey becomes a story.

♪ MICHAEL: When you take this all in, it's clear why this climb is called the Stairway to Heaven.

What I love about this spot is nature unfurls in its purest form.

We're wandering through lush, windswept trails, basking in the serene beauty of rolling meadows, and maybe, if lucky, catching a glimpse of local wildlife.

But one question: what's with the wind?

♪ (birds chirping) MICHAEL: Martina, I have been in every corner of Ireland, at least I thought I was, but here, up on top of a mountain on a fairly windy day, I have never been in this part of the world.

If you could tell me exactly where we are.

MARTINA: Where you're standing now, Michael, is- even though I may be biased, I would say is one of the best parts of the island of Ireland.

Dare I even say the best.

MICHAEL: Now, the landscape is called a geopark, and I don't quite know what that is, so if you could tell me what it is, that'll help.

MARTINA: Don't worry, Michael.

That sometimes can be common enough.

In effect, UNESCO Global Geoparks are awarded to areas that have internationally important geological heritage.

MICHAEL: Now, in the heart of it, you mentioned Cuilcagh, right?

Locals call it, the walkway to that mountain, something that people probably be a bit more familiar with.

MARTINA: There is.

There is a sort of a phenomenon in terms of the mountain that most people- some of your viewers- hopefully have heard of, which is the Stairway to Heaven.

One of the jobs and the roles that we try to do in the geopark is promote sustainable access to the countryside to allow people to get out and explore and experience the fabulous landscape that we have.

The Stairway to Heaven was one such walkway.

It has been in place for many, many years, but it was actually only recently completed in round about 2015, creating the actual boardwalk, a wooden boardwalk with an ascent of about 450 steps.

MICHAEL: There's other things that you can do up here, right?

MARTINA: Absolutely.

There's certainly no shortage of things that you can do up here.

I mean, in the bow of the hill, this lovely limestone landscape just in front of us, are the Marble Arch Caves.

They're one of only a number of show caves on the island of Ireland where you can actually experience that underground cave system, and, uniquely, the only one with an active river.

MICHAEL: The water from that brook takes about four hours to reach here.

This spot in the geopark leaves me awestruck.

Yes, underground.

We're inside the Marble Arch Caves.

Now, there was a time this place was considered taboo.

Locals regarded these caves with superstition and fear.

But, since the mid-1980s, what was to be avoided is now a delight to explore.

And, of course, to recapture your childlike fun.

Echo!

Echo, echo, echo... (water drips) ♪ MICHAEL: Tom, I've had strange conversations around this country, but very few of them have been a couple of hundred feet down under the ground.

Can you tell me where we are?

TOM: Right now we're in the Marble Arch Cave.

We are actually 75 meters below the surface.

MICHAEL: I don't think I'll ever ask this question again, do you have a favorite part of the cave?

TOM: Over at what we call the Lost City of Atlantis is probably the most scenic thing you're ever going to see in this cave system.

MICHAEL: How big is this whole structure?

TOM: The walking cave tour is around one and a half kilometers.

The cave system itself is actually 11 kilometers in length.

MICHAEL: And, so, tell me about the rock here with the rock formation and the type of- what we're under... TOM: This is a sedimentary rock known as limestone.

MICHAEL: Oh, it's limestone.

TOM: It's called the Marble Arch Cave, but actually there's no marble in the cave whatsoever.

It was just sort of the local people, back in the early days, before the cave was sort of explored or discovered, they just thought that the shiny sort of smooth appearance of the limestone resembled that of marble.

MICHAEL: Oh, very good.

TOM: And- so they just picked it up and we just stuck with it.

MICHAEL: And what do you learn when you're down here?

TOM: You learn all about the cave, the history of the cave.

You get a small flavor for geology, but nothing too intense.

We like to keep it light and breezy.

(water drips) ♪ The water is wide ♪ I can't cross o'er ♪ Neither have I wings to fly ♪ ♪ Give me a boat that will carry two ♪ ♪ And both shall row ♪ My love and I ♪ A ship there is ♪ She sails the sea ♪ She's loaded deep as deep can be ♪ ♪ But not so deep as the love I'm in ♪ ♪ I know not if I sink or swim ♪ ♪ For love is handsome and love is kind ♪ ♪ And love is a jewel when ♪ ♪ When first it's new ♪ But when it's old and the love grows cold ♪ ♪ It fades away like morning dew ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: If you had a lifetime, you could travel all the byways to hunt and find the artisans making Ireland's iconic woolen crafts.

But, even if you did, you just might miss this gem: an all-woman team of eight who not only design, but hand-finish each garment they create.

And they take one extra step, visiting the sheep farms to select the fleece that meets their standards.

♪ MICHAEL: Anne, as someone who endures a Midwest winter every year, I'm a big fan of knitwear.

And when I think of Irish knitwear, I think of you.

How did McConnell start?

ANNE: Well, McConnell started from the kitchen table, basically.

I started knitting as a child.

My grandmother showed me how to make Aran sweaters.

MICHAEL: Now, you don't only do traditional Arans.

Ye take- ye take the Aran and ye take it to somewhere that's brand new.

How do you take that?

How do you make them more modern and casual and easier to wear?

ANNE: I work with a mill in Donegal.

So, I go up once a year, and I would do color tests with them, and yarn tests.

So, like, basically, this one here, this is alpaca and Merino wool mixed together.

So it's quite light and lofty.

MICHAEL: Oh, I see.

ANNE: But it's still warm, but you can- I still put the design into it, but it's more contemporary, I think.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

It's looser.

ANNE: You know, I like with the neps.

MICHAEL: Yes.

And it looks easier to wear.

Whereas, here, this doesn't look like Aran at all.

This looks like- it looks like it was weaved.

ANNE: Yeah.

So, this is a traditional weave that I turned into a knitting pattern.

So it's kind of like a bit chunkier, but it kind of stretches both ways.

Whereas, in a weave, it'll only stretch one way.

MICHAEL: Yes.

Yes.

ANNE: So it's easier to wear, it's lighter.

MICHAEL: Where do you get your influences for all of these?

ANNE: From everywhere, really.

(laughs) A nice flower in the garden against a wall, or, you know, you'd be walking- going for a walk with the dog, and that's lovely to take a picture and try and recreate it.

MICHAEL: If anybody wants these in North America, how do they get them?

ANNE: They can come to my online shop at mcconnellwoollenmills.ie.

MICHAEL: So, can people come by to see where you make all of these things?

ANNE: Oh, sure they can.

They can come between May and October by appointment.

They just have to ring the factory and we'll give them a time and a date.

♪ MICHAEL: We're in County Sligo and we're going to the dogs.

But, as you'll see, that's not a baaad thing.

Ireland is a country of 5 million - sheep, that is.

About as many sheep as people.

So, as much as we prize their wool, we also celebrate a special Irish ballet: sheep with the famed Atlantic Sheepdogs.

Our star today, Ben.

♪ MARTIN: Ben is almost three.

They do this out of the complete and utter enjoyment of chasing the animals.

If the day comes that they don't enjoy it, they just don't do it.

So it's completely up to them.

MICHAEL: Martin, as we say here in this country, it's a soft day.

MARTIN: It's a soft day.

(laughs) MICHAEL: We can handle a bit of rain, and I'm sure the sheep don't mind.

MARTIN: No.

MICHAEL: The skills of teaching a dog.

Where do you pick up those skills?

MARTIN: I picked them up from my father.

He picked them up, believe it or not, from a book.

The first place he ever saw border collies working was in the center of Hyde Park in London city, believe it or not.

MICHAEL: Wow.

MARTIN: He came home and found a book about border collies.

He realized from the book that if he could learn to train and work with dogs, that he could change the lifestyle around here, and it did.

So, when he got dogs, he realized one dog can do the work of about eight people.

So, just by training the dogs, it could cut out all the work.

MICHAEL: So, now you have half of North America coming to see you with these dogs, right?

MARTIN: Yeah, with people from all over the world.

Yeah.

North America is popular here in Ireland.

Yeah.

People don't realize when they drive through farms- they see all the sheep, but they don't actually realize how it works.

So we try to bring them a little bit of life.

MICHAEL: Well, good luck with teaching us today with that out there.

MARTIN: Oh, yeah.

This is just normal.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

It's normal.

MARTIN: We'll get on with it now.

MICHAEL: It's Sligo.

MARTIN: It's Sligo.

But you know what?

In five minutes' time, the Sun will shine again.

And the beauty of here, the landscape changes by the second.

MARTIN: You can see, as soon as he realizes there are sheep there, we're just forgotten about.

(blows whistle) Means to stop.

Look, look.

Lay down.

To his left.

(blows whistle) (blows whistle) They go to our right now, he goes left.

Lay down.

If they go to our left, he'll go right.

So, he's brought the sheep beside me, not by noise or aggression, it's with that walk.

But that's only one feature.

The main feature of these dogs is that stare.

♪ MICHAEL: Hey, Ben, any chance left?

Right?

Ben?

Chicken?

Nothing?

♪ I'm at Long Meadow Farm in County Armagh tasting all of their fantastic ciders.

But I just discovered that Catherine, the owner, makes the most incredible soda bread, so let's go in and make some with her.

I get so many emails about what soda bread is, but this is so unique.

I have never seen soda bread made this way, and I would love you to make me some griddle soda bread right now.

CATHERINE: Okay, well, I will make it, but you have to help as well.

Now, Michael, I'm not going to do this all by myself.

So, look, apron on the ready.

MICHAEL: Okay.

CATHERINE: Get this on you.

Come on.

MICHAEL: If I must.

CATHERINE: And I'm going to put you to work here now.

MICHAEL: Right.

Okay, go on.

CATHERINE: Okay.

So, here we go.

MICHAEL: The ingredients of soda bread?

CATHERINE: Ingredients of soda bread is our soda bread flour.

What you can use is plain flour and a level teaspoon of baking soda.

I would say about three.

MICHAEL: Three heaped.

CATHERINE: About three heaped tablespoons, which would be the equivalent of about ten ounces.

This is buttermilk, about half a pint.

So, you're adding in your treacle.

Some people call it like a molasses.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

CATHERINE: Okay, so what we're doing here is we're adding about two dessert spoons.

You pour it in there, Michael, gradually now, nice and easy, because we don't want it- keep going, keep going- we don't want it too sticky.

MICHAEL: How long do you do that?

Until you just- CATHERINE: Until it comes- MICHAEL: It's kind of all blended and it- Yeah.

Okay.

CATHERINE: So, look at it the way it is, you know by looking at it.

So, perfectly fine.

You're putting your mixture out onto the board.

So, look, not even a rolling pin is needed.

You're using the heel of your hand, okay, and you're just flattening it out.

So, what we're going to do now is we're going to cut it.

So, would you like to cut it into four?

MICHAEL: Yeah.

CATHERINE: So, give it a good cut right through.

Good man.

That's you.

So, you're just lifting this and you're putting it onto your griddle.

MICHAEL: Right.

CATHERINE: Okay.

MICHAEL: Now, do you know how long you leave it on the griddle?

CATHERINE: Oh, yes.

It will need to be on the griddle, I would say, for about 15 minutes.

What you want to happen here is you want that bread to form a skin, okay?

MICHAEL: Yes.

CATHERINE: So, once it forms a skin on underneath, then we're going to flip it.

MICHAEL: You flip it?

Right.

CATHERINE: Okay, and we'll be flipping it, I would say, about three times, maybe four, just depends.

MICHAEL: Very good.

CATHERINE: And then we're going to finish it off on their edges.

MICHAEL: Catherine, you're going to flip this.

CATHERINE: Aye.

MICHAEL: Can I have a go?

CATHERINE: Definitely not.

An apprentice?

Not a chance.

No, no, no, no.

I'm going to flip first, and then, if you're really good, I'll let you do the next one.

Is that okay?

MICHAEL: It's not okay, but I guess it'll have to do.

CATHERINE: It'll have to do.

Yeah.

So, here we go.

MICHAEL: Oh, yeah.

CATHERINE: So, that's forming a lovely crust.

MICHAEL: Fantastic.

CATHERINE: And you can see the way the bread is starting to rise nicely there in the middle, as well.

So, that's the raising agent within your flour, okay.

MICHAEL: Yes.

CATHERINE: So, Michael, we're ready for another flip.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

CATHERINE: Do you think ye up for this?

MICHAEL: (laughs) Of course I am, Catherine.

CATHERINE: Are you sure?

MICHAEL: Watch me.

Trained professional.

(Catherine laughs) So, in underneath it.

CATHERINE: Yeah.

Be quick.

MICHAEL: Oh, Janey Mac.

Yeah.

CATHERINE: Janey Mac is right, it's roasting hot.

MICHAEL: Okay.

CATHERINE: We need a few more wee flips in that, and then what I'm going to do is I'm going to put it up on its edges.

Okay, Michael, here we go.

Are you ready?

MICHAEL: Yeah.

Oh, I'm ready.

CATHERINE: This is the good stuff.

MICHAEL: Fantastic.

Oh, look at it.

And the smell of it.

CATHERINE: Gorgeous.

MICHAEL: So do you put butter or jam on your soda bread?

CATHERINE: Oh no, no, no, no, no, butter.

Full butter.

MICHAEL: Me too.

CATHERINE: Look, full, good Irish thick butter.

MICHAEL: Yeah, yeah.

CATHERINE: So, take a piece of the bread there.

MICHAEL: I will, yeah.

CATHERINE: Now, do you know what I do too, Michael?

Just to get more butter through it?

Stab it.

MICHAEL: Oh, that is outrageous.

CATHERINE: Give it a good stab on there.

MICHAEL: And I'm going to totally do it.

CATHERINE: Yep.

And then take a wee bit of butter.

MICHAEL: Where's your butter?

CATHERINE: That was supposed to be for the two of us, Michael.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

Do I have to wait for you?

CATHERINE: No, indeed, you do not.

Just get to tuck in.

Tear in.

Enjoy.

MICHAEL: Cheers.

Do you know what I love?

I love the crispy edge.

CATHERINE: It's gorgeous, isn't it?

MICHAEL: Absolutely beautiful.

♪ When I think of Donegal, I think of two people: the legendary singer that is Daniel O'Donnell, and you, Eleanor Hanna, because you were the first person to welcome Ireland with Michael to Donegal town back, I'm going to say, three or four years ago at Hanna Hats.

ELEANOR: It's an honor to be up there with Daniel O'Donnell.

MICHAEL: (laughs) So, when I think about Donegal, I can't quite describe it.

It's a very special county, but you, I think, can tell me what the essence of this county is.

ELEANOR: Well, I think it's to do with the people, it's to do with the landscape.

MICHAEL: You're famous for one thing in particular, your clothing.

Now, why do you think that is the case?

ELEANOR: So, my grandfather started the business over 100 years ago.

MICHAEL: Oh, that's right.

It was last year was 100 years ago, wasn't it?

ELEANOR: 100 years last year we celebrated, which is fantastic.

MICHAEL: You don't look a day of it.

ELEANOR: (laughs) Thanks very much.

So, we make tweed hats and caps.

That's what we make in our factory, and we ship them all over the world, but America being our biggest market.

MICHAEL: What I've noticed, because I bring people on Ireland with Michael vacations up to Donegal, and we go- went to your factory.

ELEANOR: Yeah.

So, it's like a story.

We bring them onto the floor, and they see it from being cut to when it's been made on the floor and then pressed and packed and then ready to be shipped.

MICHAEL: I heard that the show had a little bit of an impact on ye locally.

ELEANOR: We get people in, and they think that they know me by seeing the TV.

I feel like a bit of a celebrity.

MICHAEL: Well, that's lovely.

I always figure that coming to a place like Donegal, particularly if your ancestors are from here, there's something very personal about those journeys.

So people are genuinely moved... ELEANOR: Oh, 100%.

MICHAEL: When they meet people from Donegal.

ELEANOR: Yeah.

And they want to know more about it, and they want to know if even going to what you wore when you were here and stuff like that there, as well.

MICHAEL: Well, does that make me like a fashion icon?

ELEANOR: 100%.

(both laugh) ♪ MICHAEL: Joanie, we're in one of my favorite pubs in the whole world and I'm with one of my favorite people in the whole world.

Tell me about Miltown Malbay, why it's so special to you, and why you think this place is special.

JOANIE: Well, we're in Friels Pub and- but if you go to the door, it says Lynch's.

MICHAEL: I know, the most Irish thing in the world.

JOANIE: For us, it's my local, and I come in here and they- they abuse you, by the way.

You know you love when they abuse you, and they you have the craic with the staff and the bartenders, and every night we make this beautiful music, and that's what this town is about.

It might not be the snazziest-looking town, but it's the greatest community.

Then of course, you have the Willie Clancy Week that takes place.

MICHAEL: Tell me more about that Willie Clancy Week.

I guess you were in the heart of it.

You never miss it, would you probably?

JOANIE: Oh, no.

I mean, this town is- is- is just the mecca.

Everybody comes from all over the world to come here.

There's not a house that isn't rented, there isn't a bedroom empty.

I don't care who you are, somebody's in the bed sleeping with you because there's no place for anybody to sleep.

All the hotels are packed, people come.

It started with just 200 people 52 years ago, and now it's- it's definitely- over a thousand students come to learn music, traditional music here.

MICHAEL: I know that there are legends all around here.

JOANIE: Yeah.

Séamus Ennis.

MICHAEL: And pictures.

But I also note that you are now one of those legends.

You have made the wall of shame.

JOANIE: (laughs) I finally made the wall.

You know, and I feel so good about that because, you know, I bought a house here thinking I'd spend a couple of weeks and I fall in love with the community and the people, you know, and the music that's here.

MICHAEL: So, you're a bit like me.

You like to be busy.

JOANIE: Yes.

(laughs) MICHAEL: And you've tours of Ireland, you've also got the biggest cruise of Irish music.

JOANIE: I'll tell you, Michael, in my wildest dreams- we had over almost 1,100 people on the last cruise.

And I only bring my buddies, my good friends.

Everybody's there for the craic.

And I have amazing- a massive amount of fantastic musicians who come to take their vacation with us because there's sessions all day.

We start music at 10 o'clock in the morning and we don't finish till 3:30 in the morning, and sometimes it doesn't finish then.

MICHAEL: So, I have one question.

JOANIE: Yeah.

MICHAEL: Do you ever lie down?

(Joanie laughs) JOANIE: We've kept very busy, and Cherish the Ladies is celebrating 40 years this year.

So an amazing, amazing thing, you know, and I'm very proud of what we've all accomplished as a band.

And still going strong and strong and keeping it- keeping going and, you know, I just love what I do.

I love making music, I love bringing people together, and I love touring with Cherish the Ladies and- and getting the chances, like, to meet and hang out with you.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: Thanks for joining me on my mad dash.

I'm Michael Londra and I hope to see you next time on Ireland with Michael.

But for now, cheers.

Sláinte.

ANNOUNCER: Want to continue your travels to Ireland?

Your choice of the Ireland with Michael DVD, Seasons 1 and 2 or Seasons 3 and 4, with bonus concert footage is available for $30.

Ireland with Michael, a musical journey CD with songs from Michael and his guest artists, is available for $20.

The Ireland with Michael companion travel book, featuring places to visit as seen in all seasons, is also available for $30.

This offer is made by Wexford House.

Shipping and handling is not included.

MICHAEL: To learn more about everything you've seen in this episode, go to IrelandWithMichael.com.

ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael was made possible by- ♪ ANNOUNCER: The music, the folklore, and the hospitality.

It's all in Ireland.

ANNOUNCER: Since 1932, CIE Tours has welcomed travelers to discover Ireland's rolling green landscapes, cherished traditions, and Irish hospitality, creating memories that last a lifetime.

CIE Tours, where every journey becomes a story.

MICHAEL: Okay, put your hands up in the air!

Come on, let's get a-wavin'!

♪ In my heart, its rightful queen ♪ ♪ Ever loving ♪ Ever tender That's it!

♪ Ever true ♪ Like the Sun, your smile has shone ♪ Go on, Wexford!

♪ Gladdening all it glowed upon ♪ ♪ ♪