PBS Hawaiʻi Presents
Kai Piha: Diamond Head Makai
Special | 58m 45sVideo has Closed Captions
Learn the little-known history of surf spots around Diamond Head from Kapiʻolani Park to Kāhala.
Author, historian and waterman John Clark takes viewers on an educational tour of the surf spots and kai lawaiʻa or fishing grounds around Lēʻahi, better known as Diamond Head on the south shore of Oʻahu.
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PBS Hawaiʻi Presents is a local public television program presented by PBS Hawai'i
PBS Hawaiʻi Presents
Kai Piha: Diamond Head Makai
Special | 58m 45sVideo has Closed Captions
Author, historian and waterman John Clark takes viewers on an educational tour of the surf spots and kai lawaiʻa or fishing grounds around Lēʻahi, better known as Diamond Head on the south shore of Oʻahu.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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John Clark/Narrator: Aloha mai kākou.
Welcome to Diamond Head Makai.
I'm John Clark.
Diamond Head is one of Hawaiʻi's iconic landmarks, and it's also one of its most popular visitor attractions.
Every year, thousands of people find their way into the crater and hike up to the summit, which is approximately 700 feet above sea level.
Today, we're going to do something a little different.
Instead of walking into the crater and hiking up to the summit, we're going to head makai towards the sea and we're going to follow the shoreline of Diamond Head from Black Point to Kapiʻolani Park.
We're going to take a look at some of the inoa kahakai, the shoreline place names.
And we're also going to take a look at some of the wahi pana the famous places that are on that shoreline from Black Point to Kapiʻolani Park.
Diamond Head got its name in the early 1800s from British sailors.
They actually found calcite crystals on the slopes of the crater, and they thought they had found diamonds.
They named the crater Diamond Hill.
Hawaiians heard that English name and they imitated it by saying Kaimana Hila, Diamond Hill.
Hawaiians, of course, had their own name for the crater.
They called it Lēʻahi.
In 1877, the editor of the Hawaiian language newspaper Kuokoa.
He wrote an article about the name of Diamond Head about Lēʻahi.
And this is briefly what he said.
Lēʻahi doesn't make any sense unless you consider it a contraction of Lae ʻAhi and Lae ʻAhi translates as forehead of the ʻahi fish.
It looks exactly like the front dorsal fin on the ʻahi fish.
The reason we say Lēʻahi today is because that's what the Hawaiians preferred to say.
They prefer to say the contraction rather than Lae ʻAhi.
When that editor in 1877 put out a call to his readers they responded and they agreed with him that Lēʻahi is a contraction.
If you do a search in the Hawaiian language newspapers and look up the place name Lēʻahi, you get about 2000 hits.
If you look up Lae ʻAhi, you only get several hundred.
So you can see what the Hawaiians preferred.
Black Point also has a Hawaiian name.
It's Lae ʻo Kūpikipikiʻō.
And that means the point of the rough sea.
Black Point is the southernmost tip of the island of Oʻahu.
And so itʻs exposed to every direction of swells, except those coming from the north.
So it's a very appropriate name.
It is a stormy point.
Mariners who were transiting the shoreline of Oʻahu in the 1800s saw very clearly that Lae ʻo Kūpikipikiʻō was made out of dark basalt.
So they named it Black Point and that name's been with the point ever since.
In comparison to Black Point, Diamond Head is a totally different volcanic material.
It's obviously not basalt because it's not black.
Diamond Head is made out of tuff which is consolidated ash, and it has a very different look, it’s brown.
So the black of Black Point contrasted very, very well with the brown of Diamond Head.
A lot of people don't realize that Diamond Head is in the ahupuaʻa, or the land division of Waikīkī.
Almost everyone thinks that Waikīkī is strictly the resort area that's bounded by the Ala Wai Canal and Kapiʻolani Park.
But Waikīkī actually extends all the way to Black Point.
If you look at the early maps, you can see the boundary line of Waiʻalae Nui that divides Waiʻalae Nui from Waikīkī and that boundary line comes from mauka all the way up on the Koʻolau Mountain Range, makai to Black Point, and it actually bisects the point where it comes right down to the ocean.
Now, there is a sub land division within Waikīkī that's called Kapahulu.
Most of us associate Kapahulu with Kapahulu Avenue.
That starts over at Leonard's Bakery and it runs past Rainbow Drive In and it ends up down in the Waikīkī resort area right next to the Honolulu Zoo.
But Kapahulu, the ʻili ʻāina of Kapahulu, that sub land division also extends all the way over to that boundary between Waikīkī and Waiʻalae Nui.
So Diamond Head is not only within the ahupuʻa of Waikīkī, it's within the ʻili ʻāina of Kapahulu.
The boundary that I've been referencing that comes down to the ocean in the center of Black Point also splits two kai lawaiʻa.
Kai lawaiʻa were fishing grounds or fisheries.
And they were actually a resource unit that was part of the ahupuaʻa.
Traditionally we think of the ahupuaʻa going from mauka to makai, but it actually in my opinion, it actually extended out into the ocean with the kai lawaiʻa, with these fishing grounds.
So going back to that boundary at Black Point on the east side of the boundary is the kai lawaiʻa of Kāhala.
And on the west side of the boundary line is Kaʻalāwai.
The kai lawaiʻa were very important resource units to the ahupuaʻa back in the day.
One of the things that came with the Western concept of land ownership, though, was that you could also own the kai lawaiʻa and they into the 1900s, they were actually bought and sold.
When we became a territory and the territorial legislature was established, a lot of people complained to their legislators about the private ownership of the ocean waters.
So in 1923, for example, the Honolulu Advertiser printed a huge article about the kai lawaiʻa, and it went into their history and it included a map of all of the kai lawaiʻa around the island of Oʻahu.
The end result of all of this attention to the kai lawaiʻa and to them being privately owned was that eventually the territory of Hawaiʻi acquired them all and they all became territorial waters.
Even though the kai lawaiʻa are gone today, they're still with us.
Theyʻre still culturally important.
If you go back to the shoreline subdivision, such as Kāhala, you'll find the kai lawaiʻa names on the street signs, and they're often found in the shoreline communities and sometimes even in our shoreline beach parks.
One of the things I'm pointing out is that sometimes the names of the kai lawaiʻa moved on land.
An example would be Kāhala.
Kāhala move to the land when the subdivision of the Kāhala lots was created.
This also happened at Kaʻalāwai when the Kaʻalāwai lots were created back in the 1890s.
If you're thinking about the kai lawaiʻa of Kāhala, you have to realize it includes half of Black Point.
So that area, the East side of Black Point, was actually marketed as the Kāhala Cliffs.
The Kāhala subdivision eventually became a very popular place to live.
And Queen Liliʻuokalani had a summer home right where Kāhala Beach intersects Black Point.
You can see evidence of this in the street signs that say Kāhala Avenue and Royal Place.
Right now, we're going to begin our kaʻahele, our tour of the shoreline of Diamond Head, and we're going to use the four kai lawaiʻa, the four fishing grounds that line the shoreline from Blackpoint to Kapiʻolani Park.
Those are Kaʻalāwai, Kuilei, Keʻauʻau and Kaluahole.
Right now we're at Kaʻalāwai.
Kaʻalāwai is actually three words Ka, which is the, ʻalā which is water warn basalt, and wai, which is fresh water.
So the literal translation is the water worn basalt.
But actually what the name is referring to are the freshwater springs that come up all along the edge of Black Point.
Hawaiians were well aware of these springs.
In fact, one of them was famous.
In 1906, a historian named William Westervelt actually wrote an article for The Paradise of the Pacific.
And in that article, he identified the most prominent spring at Kaʻalāwai.
He called it a Punaluʻu.
Punaluʻu was actually two words.
It's Puna for spring, and for luʻu dive, so it means that diving spring.
the true meaning of Punaluʻu, is actually going after fresh water that's emerging within salt water.
It was fairly common for people to ride along the beach back in the day, and horses would smell the fresh water that was coming up in the salt water.
And especially at low tide, it was readily accessible.
So the horses would actually wade out into the shallow water and drink what was for them brackish water wai kai.
There are certain types of limu that are attracted to fresh water.
And there were three types that grew here at Kaʻalāwai.
One was limu ʻeleʻele, which is a dark limo that grows on the shoreline rocks.
The second was limu Manauea.
And manauea grows a little further offshore on rocks on the sea bottom.
And it's it likes the fresh water and it's usually found down current.
The third type of limu that was found here was limu wāwaeʻiole.
Wāwaeʻiole means ratʻs feet.
And the limu is bunched, looking almost like claws of a rat.
But it's a dark limu.
It almost tastes like olives.
And even to this day, when I walk the beach at Kaʻalāwai to go surfing, I see limu wāwaeʻiole on the beach.
Most of the kai lawaiʻa, including Kaʻalāwai, had Kapu Iʻa.
That means the fish was reserved specifically for the owner of the kai lawaiʻa.
The Kapu Iʻa here at Kaʻalāwai was the ʻanae, the full grown mullet.
In 1935, Doris Duke got married and she was known as one of the richest women in the world at the time.
She married a man named James Cromwell, and they came here to Hawaiʻi on their honeymoon.
Doris Duke really loved Hawaiʻi and decided to build a home here.
So she bought four acres of land at the base of Black Point and turned it into her home, which she called Shangri La.
Now let's learn a little bit more about Doris Duke.
Navid Najafi/Associate Curator of Programs, Shangri La: Doris Duke was a tobacco heiress and philanthropist.
Her father, James Buchanan Duke was the founder of American Standard Tobacco.
And Doris Duke inherited her family's wealth when she was 12 years old, and in her early twenties, she got married and went on a honeymoon trip around the world, spending extensive time in Southern Europe, North Africa, West Asia, South Asia.
And after visiting Mughal architectural sites in India like Red Fort and Taj Mahal, she was inspired to commission a large marble bedroom and bathroom suite to be built by artists in Agra, India.
And at the time, in the 1930s, there was a revitalization of traditional Indian craft happening in India, sort of spearheaded by Gandhi, as as a direct opposition to British colonial rule.
It was Indians trying to sort of rediscover and reclaim their artistic tradition and practices and in a sense reclaim their culture.
So, Doris Duke, being there at that time was just great timing for her to be able to commission artists working on that movement.
And a lot of the sites that she visited had recently been renovated through that process and her commissioning this large bedroom and bathroom suite actually helped that movement.
Now, that may not have been her intention directly, but it definitely helped reclaiming this traditional artistic practice.
So on the last leg of that honeymoon trip, they stopped in Honolulu.
She decided to build her winter home here and had that large marble bedroom and bathroom suite shipped here instead.
And that sort of became the nucleus of this new estate that she was building, which she called Shangri La.
And I think coming to Hawaiʻi people generally cared less who she was.
I feel like she probably had some anonymity here and also fell in love with the culture as well as the environment.
You know, she was 22 years old.
She was very active.
She learned how to surf.
She learned how to spear dive, how to throw net.
And she was also lucky that she connected with with native Hawaiians and most famously with the Kahanamoku family.
And I feel like she felt like she was somewhere that she could really be herself.
The name Shangri La actually comes from a novel written in 1933 by James Hilton called Lost Horizon.
And it's a sort of a Western perspective on the East in terms of finding this utopia up in the Himalayas known as Shangri La.
So it was something that was in the popular culture at the time.
And for Doris, it appears that coming to Hawaiʻi and building this estate here, she was really searching for her own Shangri La or her own sort of utopian paradise that she was building for herself.
Shangri La is the only property that Doris Duke built herself.
Her other properties she had inherited from her family.
So Shangri La is really entirely her vision.
Doris Duke lived here for about 60 years, and she collected art from around the world, and she commissioned artists from around the world to create different works of art and architectural elements and also traveled a lot and collected items as she traveled and also documented the places that she traveled.
Then asking the architects who are working here on site to incorporate these elements.
So it is a very significant space, and a significant collection.
And it was in 1965 where she made the additions to her will to create the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, the mission to promote the learning and understanding of Islamic art and culture, and then also carry on this tradition that Doris Duke started of working with contemporary artists.
Shangri La has been here for nearly 100 years, and it's a museum now that is a part of the community, and it's a resource for the community to not only learn about this idea of Islamic art and culture, but a lot of these areas where this artwork comes from, they have a long and extensive history beyond Islam as well.
And the idea of Islam in Hawaiʻi is not new.
And it goes back to the Hawaiian Kingdom days, where the Hawaiian kingdom actually established diplomatic relationships with countries that are now represented in the collection here at Shangri La like Iran, for example, the King of Iran in the 1880s established diplomatic relationships with King Kalākaua.
Royal orders were exchanged, and the royal order that was sent here from Iran, the Royal Order of the Lion and the son, you could see it at ʻIolani Palace today.
Also, diplomatic relationships were established with Egypt, with the Ottoman Empire, which our collection extensively represents.
So this idea of Islam in the Pacific is nothing new.
This is a resource that we have now in the community, and it's an opportunity to use these resources to really broaden our understanding globally and to connect people in Hawaiʻi to these places around the world.
Deborah Pope/Former Shangri La Executive Director: She, I think, from a pretty early age, determined that she was not going to be defined by society's expectations of her.
She kept a pretty low profile and she did enjoy her privacy, but she also enjoyed a lot of freedom and independence.
And some examples of that are the extent to which she was the decision maker for everything about the purchase of this property and the design of the house.
She manages to define her own life and make her own decisions.
Such an extraordinarily beautiful place.
Every aspect about it, the landscape, the proximity to the ocean, to Diamond Head, all the vegetation, the architecture, the artwork.
One thing about Shangri La is it's the opposite of the city on the hill.
It's the opposite of the Grand Mansion on the mountaintop for everyone to see.
It's a very almost female landscape itʻs terraced, itʻs carved in.
You can't actually see into this place from outside.
And those are all things that were also true of its founder, Doris Duke.
She's very private person.
She kept most of what was important to her and who she really was to herself and to a small circle of friends.
So they are kind of a mirror to each other.
John Clark/Narrator: Doris Duke bought her four acres of land here at Black Point in 1935.
She started construction on her home.
During that construction process in 1937 she built a small boat harbor at the foot of her estate.
The main breakwater was set up only to block the swells coming into the harbor from the east.
It wasn't set up to stop swells coming in from the south or from the west, which are prevalent during the summer months.
So, that harbor was never used as a boat harbor all the way back to 1937.
It became one of the most popular swimming areas for all of the neighborhood kids and for a lot of other people that lived nearby.
My personal experience with the harbor actually goes back to 1952.
My parents bought a lot at Kaʻalāwai and they built a home there, which became our family home for 40 years.
I grew up swimming in the harbor and I got to know it very well.
I got to know the surge in there especially well during the summer surf.
Going all the way back to the 1930s, everyone who swam there called it Cromwells because at the time Doris Duke built it, she was Doris Duke Cromwell.
She got divorced in 1943 but even after that, the name remained.
And Cromwell's has been the name of the harbor ever since.
Now that name’s migrated, and it's migrated to Kaʻalāwai Beach.
When Doris Duke bought her property here at Black Point, she already had a neighbor.
His last name was Carter.
He was the second Governor of the territory of Hawaiʻi.
The Carter Estate was built in 1907, and it stayed here all the way through Governor Carter's death in 1933 until 1953.
That estate was named Kaikoʻo, which means strong sea.
And when the family sold the Carter Estate in 1953, the real estate developer called the subdivision Kaikoʻo.
And the street leading down to it is Kaikoʻo Place.
If you go to the top of Kaikoʻo Place, the street signs there say Pāpū Circle and Kaikoʻo Place.
I've always been a really big fan of street signs especially in older communities like this one.
The street signs carry a lot of history with them, and Pāpū actually came from Pāpū Ruger, which is Fort Ruger.
At the time Fort Ruger was built in 1909, it extended all the way down to Black Point, and there was actually a battery, a gun emplacement up at the top of Black Point that overlooks the ocean.
So Pā is one word, Pū is the second.
Pā means an enclosure and pū means gun.
So that's how the Hawaiians said Fort, Pāpū.
There are a number of surf spots here on the shoreline of Kaʻalāwai that were named after homes on the land.
The first one is Kaikoʻo, which we know was the former Carter Estate.
And most of the surfers today just call it Kaikos.
The next spot down the line was Patterson’s.
And this is a large channel in the reef that was straight off from the Patterson Cottages.
They were built in 1946 by Elizabeth Patterson and her husband and they rented these beach cottages out to whoever wanted to stay at Kaʻalāwai.
Those were eventually torn down and converted into six beachfront homes.
The next channel in the reef west of Patterson's was called Mahoney's.
The Mahoney's neighbor was a man named George Brown and his estate, ʻĀinamalu, went all the way from Diamond Head Road down to the beach.
Straight out from Mahoney's is a deep water surf spot, and that was named Brown's early on for ʻĀinamalu, for the George Brown Estate.
Kaʻalāwai ends at the last beach home going west along Kaʻalāwai Beach.
Straight out from those homes is a surf spot called Mansions and Mansions was the name for the palatial homes not only on the beach, but that are on the sea cliffs between the beach and Diamond Head Road.
Before we leave Kaʻalāwai, let's learn a little more about its history from Denby Fawcett.
Denby Fawcett/Author and Historian The 1895 rebellion was an effort to bring Queen Liliʻuokalani back on the throne.
She'd been overthrown in 1893, and this rebellion was led by Robert Wilcox and Samuel Nowlein.
And Nowlein was part of the Queen's household Guards.
They were very upset and they wanted to regain and restore the Hawaiian kingdom, which had been overthrown by a small group of American businessmen.
People look at Diamond Head today and think, oh, what a peaceful place, you know, overlooking Waikīkī, all the tourists, so pleasant.
But actually, Diamond Head was the site of a bloody battle that involved Winchester repeating rifles, cannons and even bombs, some of them made out of coconuts.
And Robert Wilcox and his supporters gathered support, not only from Hawaiians, but also some haoles who wanted to retain the Hawaiian kingdom.
So what they did, you'd think, how do they do this?
They're up against the Americans.
They purchased weapons in San Francisco, 30,000 rounds of ammunition and Winchester repeating rifles, 288 of them to be sent to Hawaiʻi on a ship that landed secretly, stealthily on Rabbit Island, where the weapons were transferred to a smaller inner-island vessel to be sent, some of them to Kāhala, by where the Waiʻalae Country Club is now, and others were supposed to go down to Kakaʻako, near the palace, but someone had blabbed and told about it, so they felt they were compromised.
So they picked a second place.
So the weapons were landed at Kaʻalāwai Beach below Diamond Head, and then taken to two homes of supporters.
One of them was Henry Bertelmann, who'd been in the Queen's Guard, very loyal to the Queen.
He was a part German, part Hawaiian man.
So when they're unloading the weapons at Bertelmann's house, word got out that weapons were being unloaded.
So a group of police came to Bertelmann's house to investigate.
And when they came, then the the Wilcox supporters, they got in a shootout, a firefight.
And a policeman, a Hawaiian policeman was injured and also a very prominent Caucasian man who was a supporter, Charles Carter.
So then the provisional government declared a state of emergency, and that was when the war started.
The date was January 6th, 1895.
Well, Bertelmann's house is down on Diamond Head on the beach.
So from there, it moved initially to Kapiʻolani Park.
But then the American troops, the forces of Dole, were fighting Wilcox and his supporters.
So they go up the slope of Diamond Head.
By then, the Americans had a cannon in the park shooting up at them.
The Americans also had a tugboat shooting up at Diamond Head.
The tugboat called the ʻEleu.
And they're shooting up.
So Wilcox's troops become beleaguered and eventually five of them are killed.
And this happens when the American forces go up on Diamond Head above them and shoot down on them.
So it's very terrible for them.
So they start moving.
They're on the run.
They move to Kaimukī, Mōʻiliʻili, Mānoa, Nuʻuanu, and they're dropping out along the way because they're not trained soldiers, and this is not good.
But Wilcox keeps going, and eventually he's arrested in Iwilei, where he's hiding out in a house, hoping to get passage to the neighbor Islands to get away.
And also, Queen Liliʻuoklani is arrested because the Americans claim she knew all about this and she helped them and they even claim she was hiding guns, and not true.
Wilcox and five others are charged with treason.
And if they were sentenced, they were to be sentenced with death.
But this played out over many months and his sentence was reduced, as was Liliʻuoklani.
Eventually, Dole ended it.
Let them go and it was over.
It's interesting with Wilcox, when Hawaiʻi was annexed to the U.S., we then got to have a non-voting delegate in Congress.
And Wilcox, for all of his fighting, of everything happening with the Americans, was elected by the Hawaiian people to be Hawaiʻi's first delegate to Congress.
Wilcox was a hero.
Hawaiians never stopped loving him and respecting him.
And so they voted for him.
And there's even a statue to him now downtown that on the bottom, it says he was regarded by many of his countrymen to be a great hero.
I think it's always important to know the history of places that you just look at and you think, oh, this is a nice beach, or even Diamond Head, oh, what a beautiful volcanic crater.
But it makes it so much richer and more exciting and gives it a texture and a drama that makes you like it even more, appreciate it more.
So when you look at Kaʻalāwai beach, it's not just the great surfing place.
It's a place where an important event in history happened, and one that's very exciting and dramatic and like, like it belongs in a movie.
John Clark/Narrator: Right now we're standing right alongside Diamond Road and we're in Kuilei Cliffs Beach Park.
Kuilei is the name of the kai lawaiʻa, the fishing grounds that are at the base of the sea cliffs.
Those fishing grounds start with the last home at Kaʻalāwai, and they extend all the way down to the Diamond Head lighthouse.
The original Diamond Head Road was built in 1901.
It was improved in 1930.
In 1953, the City and County of Honolulu acquired the sea cliffs.
Fortunately, someone in the city realized the Hawaiian name of this area, which is Kuilei.
So they added the word cliffs to the name of the park and called it Kuilei Cliffs Beach Park.
So surfers, all the way back then started calling the surf spot in front of the park, cliffs.
And that's still its name till this day.
The center lookout is special for another reason besides just stopping to look at the ocean, look at the surfers, look at the waves.
There's a memorial there to Amelia Earhart.
Amelia Earhart was a pioneer in early American aviation.
She was one of the first 20 women to be certified as a pilot.
She loved flying and she accomplished many flights that even her male counterparts hadn't done.
So she was famous.
She was a role model for women.
The memorial commemorates a flight that Amelia Earhart made solo from Hawaiʻi to the mainland in 1935.
And she was the first pilot to ever accomplish that.
A group of women in Hawaiʻi decided to commemorate that flight.
The women asked Kate Kelly who was a well-known artist here in Hawaiʻi, to design a bronze plaque that would be set into a stone, and the entire monument would be placed here at the center lookout.
The memorial was dedicated in March of 1937.
That was two years after Amelia Earhart made her flight.
Sadly, several months after the dedication, she was lost at sea along with her navigator.
She was attempting to become the first woman to fly around the world.
She was flying over the Pacific heading towards Hawaiʻi.
And she and her navigator were lost at sea.
That was in July of 1937.
No trace of her airplane or of her and her navigator have ever been found.
People don't realize that Diamond Head, the crater rim actually comes down and touches the ocean.
When you go the beach here, where Kuilei is, you're actually at the base of Diamond Head.
And the surfers realize that, too, because they have walk down trails to get from Diamond Road down to the beach.
So they're actually walking down the edge of Diamond Head to reach the water.
If you really think about it, the scenery here hasn't changed at all.
If you look at the historic photos of these sea cliffs, the kiawe trees were always here from the very beginning.
And that's one of the neat features of this park, is that it's undeveloped sea cliffs.
This is probably the only spot in urban Honolulu that has those features.
Before we leave Kuilei Cliffs Beach Park, we're going to interview three of the regulars out here, three of the body boarders.
Laurie Tyau/Body Boarder: Our excitement builds from the walk down because we're looking at the water and watching those waves coming in and all the lines coming in.
We know we're going to have fun.
Ricci Keltz/Body Boarder: And then as we're going down, we, we talk to all the surfers coming up, we ask them how it was.
Karen Spellmeyer/Body Boarder: Once we're in the water, we're paddling out, and then we start seeing all the regulars and all so-and-so's there.
And so it's just like it's just the best feeling in the world.
Laurie Tyau/Body Boarder: I'm just excited to get out there.
Can't wait till I catch the first wave.
But on the way out, I'm just looking at the reef below and seeing how beautiful it is, and then I'll turn around and look up and I get to see Diamond Head.
Ricci Keltz/Body Boarder: It's just incredibly beautiful, especially when we have the rainbows.
You see Diamond Head with the rainbows and then the current on the ocean, itʻs kind of chicken skin.
Karen Spellmeyer/Body Boarder: Every time we come, like any surf spot, you know, you see the regulars and itʻs just a community feeling, a family feeling.
We all kind of look out for each other.
We cheer each other on when they catch a good wave.
It's just the best feeling of all.
Laurie Tyau/Body Boarder: On a nice, windy day, the waves just peak and they pick up quickly, which is great for the body boarders because we get a quick takeoff and the drops are exhilarating.
We just ride that wave down and it just makes you feel alive and it's just fun.
Karen Spellmeyer/Body Boarder: I like the feeling of being in the wave as opposed to on top of it.
I just I don't know.
I love it.
I feel like a kid again.
And to just enjoy the waters here and being able to partake of that.
The ancestors of Hawaiʻi have been doing this for hundreds of years.
Ricci Keltz/Body Boarder: It's kind of like a church like experience to me.
It's very spiritual.
When I come out, I do my, I call to my ancestors.
I talk to my dad and I invite my ancestors to surf with me.
I feel like I'm not alone, even when I'm on the wave.
Laurie Tyau/Body Boarder: I love Kuilei because here it seems to be more of a local surf spot.
And I like it that way.
That sense of community that we've gotten over the years of the people keep coming, coming every single day and enjoy the waves with us and that's what makes it special.
John Clark/Narrator: Right now we're at the third kai lawaiʻa that fronts Diamond Head Crater.
It's called Keʻauʻau.
Keʻauʻau starts at the Diamond Head Lighthouse, which is also the end of Kuilei Cliffs Beach Park, and it goes to Lēʻahi Beach Park, which is a small mini park that's alongside Diamond Head Road.
I've never learned the moʻolelo or the story behind the name Keʻauʻau.
In 1922, a woman named Blanche Hummel placed a legal notice in the Hawaiian language newspaper Kūʻokoʻa.
In it, she stated that she was the owner of the kai lawaiʻa of Keʻauʻau.
She also made several other points that are actually of historical interest.
One was, she said that the iʻa kapu, the reserved fish for Keʻauʻau, the fish reserved for her, was the ʻamaʻama or the mullet.
She also says that Keʻauʻau was formerly a property that belonged to the Lunalilo Trust.
When King Lunalilo died in 1874, his will stated that his estate, the lands that he owned, should be placed in a trust.
He also directed his trustees to sell those lands in order to build and maintain a home for Native Hawaiians who were elderly and in need of assistance.
The first home was built in Makiki and it was near the President Roosevelt High School.
The home moved later to the ahupuaʻa of Maunalua, which we now know as Hawaiʻi Kai, and it's still there today located off of Lunalilo Home Road.
One of the lands in the Lunalilo Trust was the ʻili ʻāina of Kapahulu.
We know that that ʻili ʻāina is very large and that it includes all of Diamond Head Crater and it actually goes all the way to Black Point.
I happened to see an article in the Advertiser about a sale of some of the lands in Lunaliloʻs Trust in 1884.
One of the parcels that was up for sale was the entire crater of Diamond Head.
So, I looked a little further in 1884 and I found the results of the sale.
It said that Diamond had Crater had been purchased by His Majesty.
That would have been King Kalākaua.
Blanche Hummel’s legal notice in the Kūʻokoʻa newspaper is a good example that kai lawaiʻa were regarded as property.
Beach Road has been used for over 100 years to reach the shoreline of Diamond Head Crater.
It originally was a trail that led from Waikīkī kai to the white sand beach that runs along the shoreline of Diamond Head.
If you wanted to go manaʻe, if you wanted to go to the east towards Black Point.
This was the quickest and the fastest way to get around the crater.
The makai side of the crater has lots of deep gulches, and it would have been much simpler, it was much simpler, to simply walk along the beach to get to Black Point.
When Kapiʻolani Park was dedicated in 1877, there was a lot more traffic coming down Beach Road.
There were hikers, there were walkers, there were horseback riders, even people in carriages that wanted to see the shoreline of Diamond Head.
One of the uses the territory of Hawaiʻi made for it, was to run a water line along Beach Road and across the beach that fronts Diamond Head Crater.
That water line went all the way to the homes at Kaʻalāwai.
Those homes started to be built in the 1880s and 1890s.
To lay that water line across the beach they actually had to dig a trench through some of the rocky shelves.
There are still trenches here at Keʻauʻau and at Kuilei that used to carry the pipeline.
In fact, if you look at the trench at Kuilei there's still a remnant of the pipe still in the trench.
The white sand beach that starts at the end of Beach Road and runs all the way to Black Point has some very small grains of calcite crystal.
Those grains sparkle in the sun.
The Hawaiians call these sparkling sands one ʻanapa or one ʻalohi.
These sparkling sands are not unique to Diamond Head, they're also found elsewhere in the Hawaiian islands.
One of the wahi pana on the shoreline of Diamond Head is Diamond Head Lighthouse.
Hawaiians called lighthouses Hale Ipukukui.
Hale is house and ipukukui was a traditional lamp.
So, Hale Ipukukui really translates as the house of light.
Let's learn a little more about the Diamond head lighthouse from Admiral Day, whose home, his residence, is on the grounds of the lighthouse.
Admiral Michal Day/U.S.
Coast Guard: Diamond Head’s been used for years as a sentinel to the sea, to warn mariners from danger.
If you look over my shoulder, there's a buoy that marks a reef.
Prior to that buoy being there, the lighthouse was here, and our records go back to 1878 when fires were lit along Diamond Head just to let mariners know they were approaching a dangerous situation.
Just to arrive here they’ve traveled a great distance and out to 18 miles they will see that white beam of light, that strobe from the lighthouse.
The Coast Guard’s had a presence here at Diamond Head since 1939.
Back when we had light keepers here, it was very austere.
You see old pictures and going up the road there were no homes.
It didn't look like it does now.
And you read some of the narratives and they talked about a bus that would come occasionally and take them into town.
They were on call twenty-four seven.
There was oil that kept the lights on before it became electrified.
I think it's one most unique experience as a Coast Guard Admiral can have is living here.
It's iconic in nature.
It's beautiful.
It's something that I think we all aspire to.
The Coast Guard's work is twenty-four seven, 365 days a year.
It's such a great vocation.
It's a great career.
It's a job where you get to help people and it really has a lot of meaning to me and to the men and women of the Coast Guard.
They join to help people.
This lighthouse serves as a visual reminder of the maritime history and the connection that the Coast Guard has to the people of Hawaiʻi, providing safety to those at sea.
John Clark/Narrator: The History of the Diamond Head Lighthouse, Hale Ipukukui, is an important part of Diamond Head’s story.
Keʻauʻau ends at Lēʻahi Beach Park.
It's a small mini park that's just off of Diamond Head Road.
That little park was formerly a private residence, but the family donated it to the city and county of Honolulu.
And today it's used as a small park.
Directly off shore from Lēʻahi Beach Park, is a deep channel through the reef.
This channel is a typical feature that Hawaiians would have used to mark the boundary between kai lawaiʻa.
Right now we're at Kaluahole.
Kaluahole is the fourth and final kai lawaiʻa fishing grounds that fronts Diamond Head.
Kaluahole is actually three words ka - the, lua - hole, and āhole, which is a fish.
Most fishermen in Hawaiʻi know this fish as āholehole.
But Hawaiians differentiated between the juvenile fish, āholehole, and the mature fish āhole.
So this place name is referring to the mature fish kalua āhole.
Right now I'm standing in Makalei Beach Park and Makalei Beach Park is right in the middle of the kai lawaiʻa of Kaluahole.
Makalei is actually the name of a fishing heiau that was on the slopes of Diamond Head inland of the park.
In 1925, a developer bought a large parcel of land on the inland side of Diamond Head Road.
He used the name of the heiau, Makalei, for his development.
He called it Makalei tract and the road leading into it, off of Diamond Head Road, is still known today as Makalei Place.
So when the City and County acquired this house lot that's now the neighborhood park, they chose the name Makalei Beach Park for this particular neighborhood park.
The name Makalei comes from a supernatural tree and that was its name, Makalei.
And this supernatural tree had power.
It had the power to attract fish.
So if you think about it, that's a very appropriate name for a fishing heiau.
Makalei Beach Park is very popular, not only with beachgoers and fishermen, but with surfers too.
And they've given a lot of colorful names to the surf spots that are straight offshore.
So from east to west, you have Sleepy Hollow, you have Suicides, Graveyards, the Winch, Radicals, Tonggʻs, Rice Bowls and Zeros.
The name Suicides represents danger.
It doesn't actually mean that someone took their life there.
It's simply referring to the fact that if you go surfing there, you have to be careful of the shallow reef that's inshore.
You have to realize that a lot of these colorful names were given back in the 1950s, 1960s, and that's before we had surf leashes.
So if you are surfing at Suicides and you lost your board, it went up on this shallow reef and maybe the board would get damaged or you would get cut chasing the board over that shallow reef.
The name Graveyards for the surf spot, actually it goes back to surfing slang from back in the day.
We used to say when I was in my teens that if you caught a wave that was steep and you actually got into the tube, got into the barrel of the wave, but the wave broke on you and you didn't come out - you got buried.
So that's the connection between Graveyards and surfing.
On the Waikīkī side of Kaluahole, the spot that's called the Winch actually goes back to a shipwreck in 1913.
The name of the ship was the S.C Allen, and she was a lumber carrier.
She went aground on the shallow reef where the surf spot is located.
The boat was salvaged.
The ship was salvaged along with all of her cargo, the lumber.
But her winch was left on the reef and that became the name of the surf spot.
Probably the best known spot at Kaluahole is called Tongg’s.
That name actually goes back to a man named Rudy Tongg.
He was a local businessman.
He was the founder of Aloha Airlines.
And he was also the owner of Tongg Publishing.
There's a small beach that's just adjacent to the beach park here and Rudy Tongg had his family home there from 1946 until 1961.
Two of his children, surfed - Michael and Ronnie.
And their home on the beach was a gathering place for all of the surfers in the neighborhood.
And they would all go surfing at the very end of the reef at Kaluahole.
So that spot was just referred to as Tongg's, and that's still its name till today.
Back in the day, Native Hawaiian surfers named their surf spots just like we do today.
When non-Hawaiian surfers got involved in surfing, they started renaming the spots with English names.
And that's pretty much what we've ended up with today.
Personally, I've made it a mission to try and find the old Hawaiian names for the surf spots and I've been able to come up with about 100 of them.
The problem is, is that the references to them in the Hawaiian language newspapers are often very brief.
So we don't know exactly where those spots were.
As far as fishing for āhole goes for here in Kaluahole.
I've only heard of one person that's done that, and that was a good friend of mine, Mike Tongg.
And he told me that the very shallow reef, directly in front of his house, was the one spot among all the reefs out here that had āhole fish.
The reef where the āhole hole is has some metal pipes sticking out.
And I heard from some of the old time residents that those are remnants actually from World War II.
After the attack on Pearl Harbor there was an effort to fortify the South shore of Oahu.
Those famous photos that we've seen of Waikīkī with barbed wire would have been part of that fortification effort against landings.
There is a deep channel that bisects the reefs at Kaluahole.
It comes straight into shore through a little pocket sand beach that fronts the Kai Nalu condominium.
That deep channel separates the surf spots.
Sleepy Hollow and Suicides are on the east side of the channel and Graveyards and all the other spots down to Tongg’s and Rice Bowls are on the west side of the channel.
This brings us to the end of our tour of the shoreline of Diamond Head.
We've looked at the place names from Black Point to a Kapiʻolani Park, focusing specifically on the four fishing grounds that front Diamond Head; Kaʻalāwai, Kuilei, Keʻauʻau and Kaluahole.
Thank you for joining us.
A hui hou.
CREDITS John Clark/Narrator: A lot of people think that throwing net fishing is a traditional Hawaiian activity.
But actually, it was introduced in the early 1900s by Japanese immigrants to Hawaiʻi.
As soon as the Hawaiians saw it, they loved it and they adopted it as their own.
Hawaiians call throw net fishing ʻupena kiloi.
ʻUpena is net and kiloi means to throw.
They also had a poetic name for the throw nets.
They call them ʻupena hoʻolei.
Hoʻolei means to open like a lei and that's because the thrown nets are circular when you throw them.
Steve Kim/Throw Net Fisherman: Well, I feel like I'm a part of history, I guess.
And not too many throw net fishermen that I know of.
When I throw my net, I look at couple of things, I look at the - you've got to see the fish, actually see the fish or they're feeding and that's the ideal time to throw your net because they're distracted.
Another, another way is that if you know they're in the area and the waves come in, there's white water foam, you can throw over that because they won't the net come in.
Right?
You know, they don't want it to hit them.
I started coming here around 1951 or 52, and I was around 3 years old.
And I came with my dad.
You know, mullet season was usually around November, December, January.
That was the main mullet season.
And so my dad would throw net here for mullet a lot.
He would stand out in the reef for a couple of hours at a time just waiting for that mullet to come in.
I really aloha this area because it was so much a part of my life and I grew up here enjoying this and it is, you know, I'm so grateful that I was able to do that and that the ocean and sea life here provided so much for me to enjoy.
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