La Joie de Vivre in Quebec City, Canada
6/29/2013 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Joseph celebrates the joy of living in Quebec.
Joseph heads to Quebec City for a lively cultural adventure among the French-speaking Québécois. Joseph strolls the village’s atmospheric streets, joins into the colorful nightlife, samples world-famous cuisine, savors the area’s natural beauty and generally celebrates the joy of living with the largest Francophone population outside of France. Vive les Québécois! Vive la Ville de Quebec!
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Joseph Rosendo’s Travelscope is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television
La Joie de Vivre in Quebec City, Canada
6/29/2013 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Joseph heads to Quebec City for a lively cultural adventure among the French-speaking Québécois. Joseph strolls the village’s atmospheric streets, joins into the colorful nightlife, samples world-famous cuisine, savors the area’s natural beauty and generally celebrates the joy of living with the largest Francophone population outside of France. Vive les Québécois! Vive la Ville de Quebec!
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship>> Welcome of "Joseph Rosendo's Travelscope"... >> Ha ha ha!
>> where you join us as we accept the world's invitation to visit.
>> Today on Travelscope, I celebrate la joie de vive, the joy of life, in Quebec City, Canada, with historic, culinary, and cultural adventures.
>> "Joseph Rosendo's Travelscope" is made possible by San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.
San Antonio--Deep in the Heart.
And No-Jet-Lag jet lag prevention.
[Accordion playing waltz] >> Founded by French explorer Samuel de Champlain in 1608, Quebec City is North America's oldest permanent settlement and the capital of Quebec.
Quebec is Canada's only official French-speaking province, and Quebec City is considered the cradle of French civilization in America.
Its perch atop Cap Diamant's 300-foot cliffs inspired Churchill to dub it the "Gibraltar of North America."
The French and English used this strategic location as a military outpost for centuries.
Begun by the French in 1750 and finished by the English in 1850, the star-shaped La Citadelle is one of the city's most visited attractions and still an active home of the Royal 22nd Regiment.
>> [Shouting orders] [Shouting orders] >> How did you happen to come by having a goat as the mascot of the 22nd Regiment?
>> This is a gift from the Queen Elizabeth in 1955, and he represents courage.
>> Is it hard to be a goat?
>> Yes, because he had a tough character.
>> He's a tough character.
>> Yeah, sometimes.
>> He's a little ornery?
>> Yes.
>> What's his name?
>> Batisse.
>> Batisse, don't let them ever call you an old goat.
You look wonderful.
In 1914, the 22nd Battalion was formed so that French Canadian men could join the Canadian armed forces.
In 1920 after returning victorious from World War I, they were made a regiment, and in 1921, they were given a royal title.
>> [Shouting orders] >> The Royal Vingt-Deuxieme Regiment, the Van Doos.
Every summer, the changing of the guard takes place here at the citadel in Quebec City, Canada.
>> [Shouting orders] >> According to its UNESCO World Heritage Award, Quebec is the only city in North America still surrounded by its authentic fortified walls.
Built between 1608 and 1871, the fortifications give the town its special flavor.
On a wall hike with a park's Canada Ranger, I am literally walking on history.
That's what I call walking the walls.
>> Yeah.
Be careful.
>> That's a long drop.
>> Ha ha ha!
Here's the Saint Louis Gate, one of the first gates built by the French.
Now we have 3 different gates in Quebec City, but at one time, there were built 5 different gates around the fortifications.
>> Now, did they close the gates at night and keep people out?
>> Yes, with the curfew.
>> If you didn't get in-- >> It's too late.
Ha ha!
Here is Kent Gate, named in the honor of Queen Victoria's father.
>> Simon, how long is the walk on the fortifications?
>> The fortification are 4.6 kilometer, but the guided tour is one hour and a half.
It's on the major point of those fortifications, and if you'll look all around, we are in the center of the city, but we're surround by nature.
Here's the Saint John's Gate, and if you'll look on your right, we have Saint John Street, the most popular street in the Old City... >> Looks great.
>> and here on the left is Place D'Youville, a place with theater and a skating rink in winter.
>> These walls were put up originally to keep out strangers, but they were kept up to welcome friends.
>> Yeah.
>> Merci beaucoup.
>> It's a pleasure, but it's not the end of the 4.6 kilometer.
Please follow me.
Ha!
>> The historic heart of the walled city is Place Royale, the site of the original 17th-century village.
Costumed characters from the Museum of Civilization transport you back to the days of New France.
>> Now, who is this fellow?
>> Oh, it's Louis XIV.
He was our king in 1676.
>> The colony is doing well... >> Yes.
>> but always under threat by the British.
>> Yes.
If you look on the church, you can see that we won a lot of fights against the British, and to commemorate these victories, we renamed the church-- >> Notre Dame Des Victoires.
>> Exactly.
Victoires.
So here we are with the cannons that were brought by the French in 1691 to protect us.
>> How did they do?
>> They only served once in 1759... >> 1759?
>> when the commander Wolfe of the British Army tried to seize the city from our hands.
It worked.
He won the Battle of the Plains of Abraham September 13 of the year 1759.
>> New France has never been the same since.
>> No.
You're right.
Ha ha!
[Accordion playing] >> In the early days, Petit Champlain is where Quebec's artists and craftsmen lived and in later years, the dock workers because of the shipbuilding that took place along the banks of the Saint Lawrence River, which used to come right to its edge.
Today Petit Champlain is still where everyone comes sooner or later.
There's parks.
There's restaurants.
There's cafes, and there are still shops where the artisans continue to create their own art.
Alain.
>> Hi, Joseph.
>> Hi.
Very nice to meet you.
You're still carving away at your work here.
>> Always.
Look.
I've been taking all this off.
>> How long you been doing this?
>> I've been carving for 40 years.
>> Wow, and here in Petit Champlain?
>> 32 years.
>> Extraordinary.
>> This is the best one.
It's easy to be the best when you're the only one.
>> Ha ha ha!
It's the way I feel sometimes.
>> Yeah.
Me, too.
>> That's wonderful.
>> So we're the best.
>> We're the best.
So now, this Petit Champlain has gone through some transitions over the years.
>> Many.
>> Craftsmen back in the early days lived here, and then it went into neglect, and when did it come back?
>> In 1979.
>> And is it still the old Petit Champlain?
>> There's a soul here that will never leave.
There was already a soul, and we just put life in it again.
>> Well, I hope that you continue to stay.
>> Have a nice trip to Quebec.
You're welcome.
>> There's been a funicular on this site since 1879 connecting the Basse-Ville and the Haute-Ville, the Lower Old Town and the Upper Old Town.
Traditionally, the Basse-Ville was where the craftsmen were, and the Haute-Ville were where the government offices were, schools, and after 1893, the iconic Chateau Frontenac.
Genevieve, what was the inspiration behind this beautiful hotel?
>> Well, the majestic Chateau Frontenac was built by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company.
Back in the days, they built beautiful hotel palaces.
We were the second one to be built in 1893, but also, it's the site where the French and English governors built their chateaus back 400 years ago.
>> How do you continue to serve your community?
>> The Chateau Frontenac is a very symbolic property for the people of Quebec.
I mean, it's really got that special, emotional connection, and in some way, the Chateau Frontenac belongs to them.
>> Within easy reach of Quebec City are an abundance of natural and cultural experiences.
After Quebec's conquest by the British, the French population struggled to retain its heritage.
During those dark days, the church helped preserve French language and culture.
Founded in 1658, the Sanctuaire de Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre has been a pilgrimage site for more than a century, and each year, a million and a half people stand before Saint Anne's relics and ask for a healing from the city's patron saint as well as receive inspiration from the shrine itself.
>> This is the Shrine of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre.
The shrine was built since the year 1923, but before that, there was more than 200 years of great devotion to Saint Anne, and this shrine was born from the devotion of the people.
>> And the person who laid that first brick, they knew they would never see the end of it.
I think that's extraordinary devotion.
>> Personally, I saw the basilica growing always.
When I arrived here in 1951, I was 13 years old at that time.
Even the column was not done.
It was just the metallic structure, and you see, all around the basilica tells us of God, and even on the floor, you have something to learn because when you enter in the basilica, you see 7 medallions for the 7 capital sins.
We have to walk on that, you know... >> Ha ha ha!
>> and on each pew, you will see animals.
It's the presence of the nature of God and the creation, the free gift of God, you know?
>> So one of the obligations to your parishioners is to come here, be still, and let the stones speak to them.
>> Yes.
It's good.
They must learn to listen, you know?
>> It's good for us to do the same, huh?
>> Yes.
>> In the language of the Algonquin, one of Quebec's native inhabitants, "Quebec" means "narrow passage."
Situated upriver from the city at the opening to the narrows is the 18-mile-long Ile d'Orleans.
Much of the local produce in Quebec's shops and markets is grown in the island's orchards, farms, and fields.
>> So this is the flowers of the blackcurrant.
>> Now, how does the blackcurrant do in this weather here in Quebec?
It gets a little cold.
>> Yeah, but it needs cold.
>> It does?
>> So here in Quebec area, we can't have peach or apricot or even grapes.
It's hard, but blackcurrant needs cold.
>> What are you making from the blackcurrant?
>> Some blackcurrant liquor.
The classic is to make the tea, a mix of white wine and blackcurrant liquor or, even better, Kir Royal with champagne.
>> Mm, with a little champagne.
Well, Bernard, this sounds like a very good occupation, almost as good as my job.
How long have you been doing it?
>> Boy, that's my grand-grandfather which was started to be a liquorist... >> In France.
>> in France.
My grandfather, I knew, was in that business, and my father had been working that.
My daughter and I are the fifth generations.
>> Well, normally when I'm sitting in a field with people who speak French, we are talking about wine, Bordeaux, Burgundy, and I always tell them that-- although the good wines, or the good cassis, is made in the field--proof of it is back in the bottle.
>> Yeah.
Why not?
Let's go.
This is an aperitif wine.
Let us try it.
>> Yes, definitely.
Oh.
Sante.
>> Sante.
>> Sante.
>> Oh, that's lovely.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> Tastes lovely.
Of course, the nose is tremendous.
Ha ha!
>> Yeah, of course.
>> Yeah.
I love it when people say, "Seems to have a lot of fruit."
This has a lot of fruit... >> Yeah.
>> and this is obviously, Catherine, the piece de resistance.
>> Yes.
I'm into it already.
It's our blackcurrant liquor, and it's balanced with sugar and alcohol.
So you will see, it's very balanced, like.
>> I saw it was great when you were pouring it.
It looked like syrup.
>> Yeah.
>> Mm mm.
>> That tastes like...fruit.
>> Yeah.
Yeah.
>> I just put some fruit in my mouth, the care, the artisan care that you put in, the devotion.
Merci.
Merci beaucoup.
>> Ah, merci a vous.
Thank you for your visit.
>> Merci for you and your 5 or 6 generations before.
Merci, merci.
>> Thank you.
>> A magnet for products from all over Quebec, le Marche du Vieux-Port is where locals acquire the makings of a fine meal.
Today Chef Christian and I are on the hunt for the right stuff for a perfect risotto.
>> First for our special dish today, we're gonna set out protein.
>> Protein.
>> Protein.
>> What's the protein?
>> That's the protein.
>> Oh, look at that.
Oh, bonjour, bonjour.
Look at these guys.
>> Can I choose my lobster myself?
>> Yeah.
Yeah.
>> They're all good.
Yes.
>> They're all huge.
>> Where are these from?
>> From Gaspe.
>> Gaspe.
Oh, right out here.
>> Yes.
You know Quebec map?
That's the Saint Lawrence River, and then we are here in Quebec, and Gaspe is right there.
So I'm gonna get the small one.
>> Can't get any fresher than that.
>> Yes.
That's the man... >> Ah, thank you.
>> and for a good risotto, we need that kind of herb.
How are you?
>> Good.
>> Bonjour.
>> Monsieur Michel.
>> Bonjour.
What do we need?
>> Well, ciboulette, chives in English... >> Oh, chives.
Yeah.
Mind if I have a little-- >> yes, for the onion taste, you know?
>> It's perfect.
>> Ha ha ha!
I need melissa.
>> What is this?
>> It's kind of mint but with a lemon touch in the smell and in the taste.
>> Oh, my gosh, that's so strange.
>> Keep it in your hand.
I need basil.
>> Oh, purple basil.
>> Smell this.
>> Fantastic.
>> I want this one, too.
>> You want that one, too?
All right.
OK. We got them.
All right.
>> Next up, cheese, fromage.
>> Fromage.
Bonjour.
>> Bon fromage pour un risotto.
>> Right.
>> "Cheese for risotto."
I understand that much French.
>> I like parmesan, but this one is a sheep parmesan.
>> Ah.
Just a little taste?
I mean, come on.
What's the use of going to the market if you're not eating things along the way, huh?
Part of the fun, part of the fun.
Merci.
>> [Speaking French] >> Ah, it's 6 month aged.
>> 6 months of age.
Mm.
Mm.
C'est bon.
>> C'est bon?
>> C'est bon.
>> Ha ha ha!
The first tomato of the season.
>> I love tomatoes.
>> Aha.
You have to taste that.
Do you like it?
>> Oh, my gosh, that's a real tomato.
Why is Quebec so good for these vegetables and fruits?
>> That's microclimate.
So that's the same--Famille, Ile d'Orleans.
There's not too much sun, not too much water.
>> Microclimate.
>> Uh-huh.
$3.00, Joseph.
>> $3.00?
I don't have $3.00.
>> I don't have, either.
Ha ha!
Next time.
Merci.
>> All right.
Let's get out quickly.
>> Ha ha ha!
Are you OK with that?
>> I'm fine.
I'm fine.
>> Now the mushrooms.
>> I know what a sous chef does now-- >> Yes.
>> carries everything.
OK. >> Bonjour, madame.
[Speaks French] >> Oui.
>> Pied bleu.
>> Blue feet.
I've never heard of blue feet mushrooms.
>> I love those one with lobster because you can use the top, the bottom, and they are really tasty.
Last stop... >> Last stop.
>> one of my favorite one.
>> Why?
>> Why?
There's a lot of spice.
There's a lot of tea.
There's a lot of everything that you don't find anywhere else.
>> So we're getting your spices here.
>> Yes.
>> OK. >> Look at that--pimentes but a cream, like a pepper, but the flavor is so powerful.
>> I'm ready to eat this wonderful risotto.
>> It's the last stop, but we need many thing here.
OK, Joseph.
Allez cuisine.
>> Allez cuisine.
>> Look at this wave.
>> The wave.
Yeah.
Whoo whoo!
>> You have to taste that, Joseph, before we plate it.
>> Oh, well, I-- >> Let me add a little more pepper.
>> OK.
This is right out of the pan, right into the pan to my mouth.
Mm, nothing like great risotto, and I can taste all those different flavors.
>> Imagine that with lobster.
>> Bon appetit.
Mm.
[Chuckles] In Quebec City, dining opportunities abound.
There's everything from sandwich shops to tourist stops... Bon appetit, mon ami.
to historic establishments, such as Aux Anciens Canadiens, where you can indulge in a traditional meat pie that's served with a pheasant and bison casserole.
Ooh la la.
Yet restaurants aren't the only purveyors of fine food.
In 1871, at a time when business was an English domain, French Canadian J.A.
Moisan began what has become the oldest grocery store in North America in the Quartier Saint-Jean-Baptiste.
The store still specializes in goods from the Quebec region and beyond.
>> Bonjour.
>> Ah, bonjour, bonjour, bonjour.
What do we have in here?
Let's see what he's got.
Ah, the, maple the.
>> It is.
Yeah.
>> Maple the.
This must be local, local.
What else?
These are cattail hearts.
I would never even think of picking a cattail, much less eating its heart.
Bonjour, madame.
>> Bonjour, madame.
>> Hey, very good.
We're saying it together now.
Wait.
>> Or hello... >> Hello would work, too.
>> from Saskatchewan.
>> This lady speaks English.
>> She's from Saskatchewan.
>> Oh, my gosh, do you know that this store has a lot of products from Quebec?
Did you ever hear that?
Is that why you came here?
>> Yes.
That's why I came.
>> Now, of all the products you have here, what percentage of them are from Quebec?
>> 50% are from Quebec province, 70% if we're talking about cheese.
Voila, Joseph, all the cheese I was talking about.
>> How many cheeses do you have?
>> Over 300 cheese and pate.
>> And pates, as well?
>> You want to taste some?
Start with this one.
This is-- Well, it's mild.
I would say mild...likeably.
>> Mm, that's very, very good.
>> Yes.
>> And this one?
>> It's a Swiss style, I would say.
>> Except much more flavor.
>> Lots of flavor.
Yes.
>> Wow.
Clement, do me a favor.
Never get rid of this store.
I'd come to Quebec just to come here.
>> We're in love with our store.
>> Merci beaucoup.
>> You're welcome.
>> [Singing] >> For centuries before the Europeans, the Quebec region was home to several aboriginal tribes.
Not far from Quebec City is Wendake, the only Huron-Wendat reserve in North America.
A visit offers the opportunity to become acquainted with one of Canada's 617 First Nations people and share in their culture.
>> The long house that we have here is recreation, and we can see how we lived and where we lived.
You see the beds, the second level where we stored everything.
>> Wow, how many people could live in a long house?
>> About 150 people.
The most important thing to have to live well in the big long house like this is to be respectful.
>> Now, I know that the story of the Huron-Wendat people is that you weren't originally here in Quebec.
>> We lived in the Great Lakes for thousands of years, but we had to move in the region of Quebec because the war.
We were allied with the French, and our enemies, the Iroquois, they were allied with the British.
So they pushed us away from our territory, and, unfortunately, it's because of that that we lost a lot of our tradition and our religion, our language.
We lost almost all of this because we were just 500.
>> From 30,000, the Huron-Wendat nation was decimated by war and smallpox to just 500.
They arrived in Quebec assisted by French Jesuit missionaries.
Their mutually supportive relationship with the French dates back to the days of the voyageur fur trappers.
>> When we met the French, we realized that they wanted a lot of beaver furs, and we started to hunt more beavers, and beavers were the first money here.
>> You know, what's so wonderful about being out here is, well, you're actually surrounded by Quebec... >> Yes.
We are in the city.
>> City of Quebec, and here you are, a little refuge.
It is a reserve.
>> Yes.
>> It's an interesting term.
>> Yeah.
>> It's a little piece of land and nature here that is reserved.
>> That's why our territory, the reserve, is called Wendake.
"Wendake" means "the great island."
>> Just stop here for a minute and... >> Mm-hmm.
>> be quiet.
It's really nice.
[Inhales] Mm... >> [Singing] >> Respect for everyone is a central principle of the Huron-Wendat.
They believe all deserve to be heard.
To ensure equal time, they conceived the speaking stick.
An elder of the Wendat Nation guides me in its creation.
>> I am very happy to make a speaking stick... >> A speaking stick.
>> speaking stick with you, OK, and I say thank you for all the thing we make the speaking stick.
Choice with your eyes and your heart.
>> Choose with my eyes and my heart.
>> And your heart, not with-- >> Not with your head.
>> No.
No.
>> OK. Well, this one attracted me right away... >> Good.
>> Because it's straight.
>> Yeah.
>> I also like because it is a little bit flawed.
>> Yeah?
>> So how do we go about making a speaking stick?
What do I do now?
>> OK. We put this on.
>> So we use the deerskin to tie on the wolf.
>> Now secret herbs--sage, cedar.
The sage is very strong.
>> So this is a masculine... >> Yeah, masculine.
Yeah... >> the grass that's in there.
OK.
So how are we doing this?
>> and tobacco is feminine and masculine at same time.
>> Both.
>> OK, and after, we make the feather.
>> OK, and these are feathers from-- >> The feather is white goose.
>> White goose.
>> You can say, "Give me teaching place and come out to inside my soul for to lie with me"... >> Hmm.
>> OK, for to help for the direction.
>> What are the beads for?
>> The beads, it's for to represent the 4 direction... >> 4 directions?
>> the 4 age, the 4 season, the 4-- >> People of the world.
>> Yeah--red people, white people, yellow people, and black people.
Yeah.
Yeah.
You know it's not a toy... >> No.
>> OK?
I said to the people, always-- Always the people, I said, "If you don't ask, you'll never receive."
Give me help in communication.
Give me a lesson.
Give me a message.
It's possible people said no today.
It's OK because it's not the time for you to receive.
For my people 300 years ago, it's not good, but today it's good, you know?
>> Yes.
Everything in time.
Tiawenkh.
>> Tiawenkh.
>> Tiawenkh.
>> Bienvenue.
Ha ha ha!
>> [Singing] >> ♪ Hey, hey, hey, hey ♪ >> Merci.
Thank you.
>> Thank you for joining me on my Quebec City, Canada, adventure.
In 1985, Quebec City was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site because of its famous fortified walls but foremost for being the cradle of French civilization in America.
Quebec City is the fountainhead of generations of New World French, yet Quebec City is not a piece of France in the Americas.
The Quebecois may speak a similar language and have many common cultural roots, yet Quebec City is no more France than Plymouth is England.
Quebecois have their own cuisine, music, and art.
They have a special sense of humor and an indomitable spirit, yet like their European brothers, they know how to celebrate la joie de vivre, and celebrating with them is one of the many joys of being here.
Until next time, this is Joseph Rosendo reminding you of the words of Mark Twain-- "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness."
Happy traveling.
>> "Joseph Rosendo's Travelscope" is made possible by San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.
San Antonio--Deep in the Heart.
And No-Jet-Lag jet lag prevention.
For a DVD of today's show or any of Joseph's "Travelscope" adventures, call 888-876-3399 or order online at Travelscope.net.
You can also e-mail us at TV@Travelscope.net or write us at the address on your screen.
>> Now that we've celebrated the joy of life in Quebec City, learn more at Travelscope.net, where you can follow my worldwide adventures through my e-magazine, blog, podcast, and on Facebook.
Stay in touch-- 888-876-3399 or TV@Travelscope.net.
[Cell phone rings] >> Oh...ha ha ha!
>> It's your turn to speak.
>> I received a message.
Hello?
>> You received a message, and you didn't even use the stick.
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