>> WELCOME TO "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVELSCOPE," WHERE YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT.

[GRUNTS] >> TODAY, I TAKE A PATH LESS TRAVELED AND EXPLORE THE CARIBOO CHILCOTIN COAST REGION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA.

>> [SINGING] >> "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVELSCOPE" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY: VOLVO'S OVERSEAS DELIVERY PROGRAM, WHERE BUYERS CAN PICK UP A NEW VOLVO IN SWEDEN, USE IT IN EUROPE, AND THEN HAVE IT JOIN THEM AT HOME; NO-JET-LAG JET LAG PREVENTION; AUBERGE RESORTS' DISTINCTIVE COLLECTION OF LUXURY RESORTS, RESIDENCES, AND SPAS.

>> THE CARIBOO CHILCOTIN COAST REGION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA IS A WORLD A PART FROM THE CITY HUSTLE AND BUSTLE.

YOU SOON UNDERSTAND ITS MOTTO, LAND WITHOUT LIMITS, WHEN YOU DISCOVER YOU'RE OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN A COASTAL, MOUNTAIN, AND BACK-COUNTRY WILDERNESS.

THE 3 PARTS OF THE REGION ARE CHARACTERIZED BY THE CARIBOO MOUNTAINS IN THE EAST, THE CENTRAL CHILCOTIN PLATEAU, AND THE COASTAL FJORD LANDS IN THE WEST.

THE BELLA COOLA VALLEY STRETCHES 50 MILES FROM THE BASE OF THE CHILCOTIN PLATEAU TO THE HEAD OF THE FJORD, WHERE I BEGIN MY EXPLORATIONS ABOARD BELLA COOLA GRIZZLY TOURS' CHARTER BOAT.

NOW ARE PRAWNS THE ONLY THING YOU CAN CATCH HERE IN THE INLET?

>> A LITTLE BIT OF DUNGENESS CRAB, BUT YOU GOT TO GO OUTSIDE A LITTLE BIT TO GET INTO THE BETTER CRAB FISHING, BUT PRAWN FISHING IS BASICALLY WHAT WE OFFER HERE ON OUR DAY CHARTERS.

YOU GIVE A GOOD YELL AND LET ME KNOW WHEN IT'S COMING UP BECAUSE I CAN'T SEE IT IN THAT GLACIAL WATER, EH?

>> OK. IS THIS GONNA BE REALLY HEAVY COMING UP?

>> THEY'RE NOT A HEAVY TRAP, BUT HOPEFULLY THEY'LL BE HEAVY WITH PRAWNS.

UNCLIP IT AND THEN JUST BRING IT ABOARD.

THAT'S RIGHT.

>> THOSE ARE NICE SIZE.

>> YEAH.

PACIFIC SPOT PRAWNS AND THEN SOME COONSTRIPE PRAWNS WE CALL THEM.

>> GOT A LITTLE FISH IN THIS ONE.

NOW WHEN YOU GO OUT FOR THE BIG FISH, THAT TAKES HOW LONG TO GET OUT TO THE OCEAN?

>> 3 OR 4 HOURS RUNNING.

IT'S REALLY NICE OUT THERE.

THE SPRING SALMON BITE, THE HALIBUT BITE, THE BOTTOM FISH BITE, BUT IT'S KIND OF LIKE A 3-DAY, 2-NIGHT THING THAT WE DO.

>> OK. WELL, THAT'S THE LAST ONE.

LOOK AT THOSE GUYS.

>> YEAH, WE DID GOOD, JOSEPH.

>> WHOO-HOO!

IN SHE GOES.

>> WELL, WE'VE GOT ENOUGH FOR A LITTLE FEED THERE ANYWAY.

THAT'S PRETTY GOOD.

>> THAT'S ENOUGH FOR ME.

WHAT ARE YOU GONNA EAT?

>> HA HA HA!

>> GOSH!

THESE ARE BIG!

OK.

THERE THEY ARE.

>> WHEN YOU BLANCH THEM LIKE THAT, MAKES THE MEAT GO AWAY FROM THE SHELL SO THAT THEY PEEL A LITTLE BIT EASIER, YOU KNOW?

YOU DONE THAT BEFORE I CAN SEE.

>> OH, YEAH.

HERE WE ARE.

HEH HEH.

>> CHEERS.

>> MMM!

OH, MY GOSH!

IF YOU EVER NEED A DECKHAND, I'M AVAILABLE.

CHEERS!

>> CHEERS!

>> THE BELLA COOLA VALLEY IS THE HEART OF THE COAST, AND GETTING THERE IS HALF THE FUN.

DRIVING 620 MILES FROM VANCOUVER IS AN ADVENTURE, SO MANY FLY OR OPT FOR A SCENIC PASSAGE ABOARD B.C.

FERRIES, WHICH DOCKS AT BELLA COOLA, POPULATION 2,000.

WHILE EUROPEAN PRESENCE IN THE VALLEY DATES BACK TO EXPLORER ALEXANDER MACKENZIE'S TRANSCONTINENTAL CROSSING IN 1793, THE FIRST NATIONS NUXALK PEOPLE HAVE LIVED IN THE VALLEY FOR 10,000 YEARS.

TODAY THEY CONTINUE TO HARVEST THE COAST'S RESOURCES AND PRACTICE SKILLS THAT HARKEN BACK TO THEIR ANCIENT BEGINNINGS.

>> THESE ARE JUST SMALL, LITTLE GUYS.

>> THESE ARE THE SMALL, LITTLE GUYS.

OK. WE BEGIN THE PROCESS BY-- >> I'LL START BY CUTTING THESE FINS HERE OFF FIRST.

>> SO YOU DON'T DO LIKE WE WOULD NORMALLY DO, CLEAN IT, GUT IT.

>> IT MAKES IT HARDER FOR SLICING.

LIKE, THE WAY THEY SLICE HERE.

>> UH-HUH.

NOW THAT LOOKS LIKE EDIBLE IN THAT HEAD THERE, RIGHT?

DO YOU EAT THAT?

>> YES.

WE EAT THEM ALL.

>> YOU WERE TALKING ABOUT THE WAY YOU'RE CUTTING IT.

YOU'RE CUTTING IT TRADITIONALLY.

IS IT TRADITIONAL THAT THE MEN PREPARE IT FOR THE WOMEN TO SLICE IT OR JUST IN YOUR FAMILY?

>> MY LATE MOTHER USED TO DO IT ALL ON HER OWN.

>> SHE'D DO IT ALL.

ALMOST WAS WOMAN'S WORK.

YOU'RE HELPING OUT.

GOOD!

SO THINGS HAVE CHANGED.

FEMINISM HAS MOVED IN.

>> YEP.

>> OK. THAT'S IT.

THAT'S READY TO GO.

>> THAT ONE'S READY TO GO.

>> OK. >> SLUQ.

>> "SLOOK"?

>> "SLUHK."

>> SLUQ.

WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?

>> THAT'S A DRIED SALMON.

>> I'M LEARNING A LITTLE BIT OF NUXALK HERE.

SLUQ.

NOW WHAT'S DAISY DOING HERE, FRANK?

>> SHE'S GONNA PUT THE SALMON SLICES INTO THE WATER, BRINE WATER HERE.

THIS IS SALT AND WATER, AND WE LEAVE THEM IN THERE FOR 10 MINUTES AND TAKE THEM OUT AND HANG THEM.

>> WELL, WHAT WOULD HAPPEN IF YOU DIDN'T SET THE TIMER, DAISY, AND YOU WAITED 15 MINUTES?

WHAT WOULD HAPPEN TO THE FISH?

>> IT WOULD BE SALTY, AND YOU COULD EAT IT.

>> TASTE SALTY.

YEAH.

>> YOU'LL HAVE IT WITH YOUR BEER.

>> HA HA HA!

10 MINUTES IS THE TALLIO WAY.

>> THAT'S WHAT MY PARENTS TAUGHT ME.

>> THAT'S WHAT YOUR PARENTS TAUGHT YOU.

NOW, LORRAINE, YOU'RE SHOWING A TALENT THAT VERY FEW PEOPLE CAN DO, CUTTING THIS REALLY, REALLY THIN.

I UNDERSTAND THAT FRANK'S MOTHER TAUGHT YOU HOW TO DO THIS.

>> YEP.

>> HOW LONG DID IT TAKE YOU TO LEARN IT TO HER SATISFACTION?

>> UM, IT TAKES PRACTICE.

>> I KNOW, BUT WHEN DID SHE SAY, "OK. NOW YOU'RE DOING IT RIGHT"?

>> HEH HEH.

>> WAS IT A WHILE?

>> A WHILE.

>> YEAH.

I BET IT WAS.

SO WE'RE GONNA HANG SOME SALMON HERE.

I THINK IT'S GREAT THAT YOU HAVE YOUR DAUGHTER PARTICIPATING AND HELPING, TOO, BECAUSE THAT HELPS KEEP THE CULTURE ALIVE, RIGHT?

>> YEP.

MY PARENTS TAUGHT US THAT IF WE WANT TO EAT THIS WE NEED TO HELP PREPARE IT, AND SO I TAUGHT THAT TO MY CHILDREN.

THEY GOT TO COME OUT INTO THE SMOKEHOUSE AND HELP, AND SO THEY DO.

>> THAT'S GREAT.

JUST ADMIRING MY WORK OR AT LEAST THE WORK I WAS ABLE TO SHARE IN.

ALWAYS A WONDERFUL WAY TO GET AN INSIGHT INTO A CULTURE, AND SO EVEN FROM SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS HANGING FISH THAT'S BEING PREPARED FOR DRYING AND SMOKING, YOU GET A LITTLE INSIGHT INTO A PEOPLE AND A CULTURE.

LIKE MANY INDIGENOUS PEOPLE, THE NUXALK NATION AND THEIR CULTURE NEARLY DISAPPEARED.

DURING THE SMALLPOX EPIDEMIC OF 1862, A PRE-EUROPEAN-CONTACT POPULATION OF 35,000 WAS REDUCED TO 240 SOULS.

SURVIVORS WERE PLACED ON A RESERVATION AND IN GOVERNMENT RESIDENTIAL SCHOOLS.

NUXALK LANGUAGE, CEREMONIES, AND ART WERE FORBIDDEN AND ALMOST FORGOTTEN.

ONLY RECENTLY HAVE THE NUXALK ONCE AGAIN EMBRACED THEIR CULTURE.

ON A WALK THROUGH THE RAIN FOREST ALONG THORSEN CREEK, SACRED FACES, FIGURES, AND SIGNS ETCHED IN STONE 7,000 YEARS AGO ARE STILL VISIBLE.

THEY AND OTHER NUXALK ICONS HAVE BEEN REBORN THROUGH THE MASKS AND HOUSE POLES OF ELDER CARVER SILYAS SAUNDERS.

WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON HERE?

>> EH, JUST MAKING A POLE.

>> JUST MAKING A POLE?

>> YEAH, THIS IS A MEMORIAL POLE FOR SCOTT MOODY, BUT IT ALSO DESCRIBES A LOT OF NUXALK.

>> SO IT'S A HISTORY OF THE NUXALK PEOPLE BUT ALSO A PERSONAL HISTORY OF THE MAN WHO JUST DIED.

>> YEAH.

TOP ONE THERE IS THE SUN AND 4 CARPENTERS, AND THOSE ARE THE HANDS THAT THE 4 CARPENTERS USED TO BUILD OUR NUXALK WORLD.

>> SO ARE YOU STILL CREATING WORKS OF ART THAT YOU'RE SELLING OR JUST-- >> NO.

EVERYTHING THAT I SHOW, THERE'S STUFF ALL OF THE WORLD, BUT I NEVER SEE THEM AGAIN, YOU KNOW, AND IT KIND OF--IT BOTHERS ME.

SO I WANT TO KEEP THE POLES HERE IN MY HOMETOWN, AND YOUNG PEOPLE CAN SEE IT.

>> THAT'S WONDERFUL.

I UNDERSTAND YOU'RE ONE OF THE LAST PEOPLE WHO STILL SPEAK THE NUXALK LANGUAGE.

WHAT IS BEING DONE TO HELP PRESERVE THE LANGUAGE?

>> YEAH.

THEY'RE TEACHING THEM IN THE SCHOOL.

THEY HAVE LANGUAGE CLASSES WHERE THE ADULTS THAT NEVER, EVER SPOKE OUR LANGUAGE.

>> WELL, HOW ABOUT "THANK YOU"?

>> "SHTAY-TOOH-NEE-CHOO."

>> "SIH-TIH-NEE-CHOO"?

>> "SHTAY-TOOH-NEE-CHOO."

>> "TIK-OOH-NEE-CHOO"?

WELL, SHAY-TOOH-NEE-CHOO.

THANK YOU FOR HAVING ME.

>> SHTAY-TOOH-NEE-CHOO.

>> WHILE USUALLY HERITAGE IS PASSED DOWN TO THE NEXT GENERATION, AMONG THE NUXALK, THE UPSWING IN CULTURAL PRESERVATION HAS ALSO RECEIVED ITS IMPETUS FROM YOUNGER MEMBERS LIKE SILYAS' SON SKIP.

WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON, SKIP?

>> I'M WORKING ON A FINBACK WHALE.

>> NOW IS THE FINBACK WHALE A VERY IMPORTANT PART OF THE CULTURE AS A SYMBOL?

>> YES.

IT'S ACTUALLY WHAT IT IS IS A CREST, ONE OF MY FAMILY'S CRESTS.

SOME OF THESE PIECES THAT WE HAVE HAVEN'T BEEN REPRODUCED FOR 30, 40, 50 YEARS.

>> REALLY?

>> YEAH.

>> WHAT'S BRINGING IT BACK?

>> IDENTITY.

IN THE LAST 10 YEARS OR SO, 15 YEARS, THERE'S BEEN A RESURGENCE OF PEOPLE WANTING THIS STUFF IN THEIR LIVES NOW.

IT TELLS YOU WHO THEY ARE.

THESE THINGS ARE NOT RELIGIOUS ICONS.

THEY'RE OUR WAY OF DOCUMENTING HISTORY.

>> IT'S TO DEPICT THE STORY OF LIFE.

>> YES.

>> WHAT IS THE NUXALK BELIEF AS FAR AS NATURE IS CONCERNED AND SPIRITS?

>> EVERY LIVING THING HAS A SPIRIT, EVEN TREES.

EVEN THE BLADE OF GRASS HAS A SPIRIT.

>> DO YOU SEE YOUR JOB TO BRING THAT SPIRIT... >> OUT OF THE WOOD?

>> THAT'S IN THE TREE OUT OF THE WOOD?

>> NO.

THIS IS JUST A VEHICLE FOR MY--FOR MY--FOR WHAT'S IN MY MIND, RIGHT?

>> YOU'RE NOT PULLING THE SPIRIT OUT OF THE WOOD.

YOU'RE GIVING YOUR SPIRIT TO THE WOOD.

>> YES!

EXACTLY!

>> THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.

>> FROM OUR CULTURE.

IT COMES FROM OUR FAMILY.

LAST NIGHT, WE JUST HAD A TALK ABOUT THAT, LIKE, PRESERVING OUR CULTURE AND STUFF LIKE THAT, AND HE WAS SAYING, "SKIP, MAN, I REALLY APPRECIATE WHAT YOU'RE DOING."

IT JUST SENT CHILLS UP MY SPINE, RIGHT?

"WOW!

THESE GUYS REALLY APPRECIATE IT, RIGHT?"

AND I NEVER THOUGHT OF IT AS THAT.

FOR ME, THIS STARTED OUT AS A WAY TO STAY SOBER.

YOU KNOW, IT WAS A WAY TO LOOK AFTER MYSELF.

IN OUR CULTURE, WE HAVE THIS THING CALLED [SPEAKS NUXALK], AND THE SPIRIT IN THE BOY IS WILD, RIGHT?

"ARR."

HE'S ALL, "ARR!"

SO WHAT THEY DO IS THEY BANISH HIM, RIGHT?

THEY GOT TO TAME THAT SPIRIT.

THIS IT WHAT TAMES MY WILDE SPIRIT.

IT IS.

THIS IS FOR ME IS NOT JUST A FORM OF ART.

IT'S A FORM OF MEDITATION.

I LIVE AND BREATHE THIS.

AT THIS ONE MEETING, I STOOD UP, AND I SAID, "OUR CULTURE'S JUST ABOUT DYING.

OUR MASKS ARE DYING," AND THIS ELDER STOOD UP, AND HE SAYS, "THEY'RE NOT DYING.

THEY'RE JUST ASLEEP."

I SAID, "WELL, I GUESS I'M HERE TO WAKE IT UP THEN, RIGHT?"

>> AS OPPOSED TO THE COASTAL PART OF THE REGION, THE CHILCOTIN STRETCHES FROM THE COASTAL MOUNTAINS TO THE FRASER RIVER, AND IT IS A 3,000-SQUARE-MILE PLATEAU WHERE YOU'LL FIND GRASSLANDS AND GUEST RANCHES, RIVERS, STREAMS, LAKES, AND FISHING LODGES.

LOCATED IN THE WESTERN CHILCOTIN, STEWART'S LODGE ON NIMPO LAKE IS A GATEWAY TO OUTDOOR ADVENTURES THAT INCLUDE WORLD-CLASS HIKING, CANOEING, AND FISHING.

THERE MAY BE LAKES AND RIVERS THAT RUN THROUGH IT, BUT THERE ARE NO ROADS.

A FLOAT PLANE IS THE BEST WAY TO EXPLORE THE CHILCOTIN WILDERNESS.

FIRST STOP, TURNER LAKE FOR A WALK TO SPECTACULAR HUNLEN FALLS.

>> AND HERE IT IS.

THIS IS HUNLEN FALLS, AND IT'S, YOU KNOW, OVER A THOUSAND FEET STRAIGHT DOWN.

>> I UNDERSTAND IT'S THE THIRD HIGHEST WATERFALL IN CANADA.

>> IT COMES RIGHT OUT OF THIS TURNER LAKE THAT WE LANDED ON IN THE FLOAT PLANE, AND THEN IT RUNS DOWN THROUGH THE BELLA COOLA VALLEY AND COMES OUT AT THE OCEAN AT BELLA COOLA.

>> THIS IS SUCH A BEAUTIFUL, REMOTE AREA, BUT WE ARE NOT ALONE HERE.

>> THAT'S RIGHT.

THERE'S A FEW MOSQUITOES.

>> A FEW TRILLION MOSQUITOES HAVE COME TO GREET US HERE.

>> IT'S BEEN A WET SEASON, YEAH.

>> AND THAT'S WHAT MAKES SO MANY OF THEM?

>> THAT'S RIGHT, YEP.

>> WOW.

>> SO THIS IS THE LONESOME LAKE VALLEY.

THERE WAS AN OLD TRAPPER THAT HOMESTEADED DOWN HERE AT THE FAR END OF THE LAKE IN THE EARLY 1900s BY THE NAME OF RALPH EDWARDS.

>> AND WHY CALLED LONESOME VALLEY?

JUST BECAUSE NO ONE EVER CAME TO VISIT HIM?

>> IT WAS A LONESOME PLACE, VERY ISOLATED BY THE COAST MOUNTAINS.

>> THANK YOU FOR BRINGING US OUT HERE.

THIS IS BEAUTIFUL.

IF LIKE PIONEER RALPH EDWARDS YOU FANCY THE AREA'S SOLITUDE, THE FOLKS AT STEWART LODGE CAN SET YOU UP IN THEIR ISOLATED CABIN ON DAVIDSON LAKE, WHERE YOUR ONLY NEIGHBORS ARE THE GRIZZLY BEARS.

>> DID YOU FLY ALL THIS STUFF IN?

>> YEAH.

IT ALL CAME IN ON A FLOAT PLANE.

WE HAVE 9 LITTLE CABINS LIKE THIS ON DIFFERENT LAKES, AND PEOPLE SPEND A FEW NIGHTS OUT HERE.

>> THIS IS REALLY NEAT.

HOW MANY WILL IT SLEEP?

>> IT WILL SLEEP 3 PEOPLE.

>> THIS IS PRETTY REMOTE.

DO YOU, UH, EVER HAVE ANY WILDLIFE VISITING?

>> WE DO.

IT'S KIND OF A MIGRATION ROUTE FOR THE BEARS.

>> GRIZZLY BEARS?

>> YEAH.

THEY HIBERNATE UP IN THE MOUNTAINS, MIGRATE DOWN THROUGH HERE IN THE SPRINGTIME.

IN FACT, YOU CAN STILL SEE WHERE THEY'VE WALKED RIGHT THROUGH HERE, AND WHAT THEY DO IS THEY'LL PUT THEIR PAWS DOWN LIKE THIS AND TWIST THEM.

>> UH-HUH.

>> AND MAKE THESE--MAKE THEM LOOK BIGGER THAN THEY ARE, AND THEN WHEN THEY GET TO A TREE, A LOT OF TIMES, THEY'LL REACH UP AS HIGH AS THEY CAN, AND RIGHT HERE, YOU CAN SEE WHERE THEY'VE SCRAPED ON THE TREE.

YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE BEARS HAVE COME, AND THEY'LL KIND OF BITE ON THE LOGS A BIT.

YOU CAN SEE THE TOOTH MARK RIGHT HERE.

>> YEAH.

HE WAS TRYING TO EAT THE CABIN.

>> THAT'S RIGHT.

THEY DON'T LIKE THE CABIN BEING HERE IN THEIR TERRITORY.

>> WELL, LET'S GO OUT AND GET INTO THEIR TERRITORY AND DO A LITTLE FISHING.

DAN, I'VE FLY FISHED IN MANY PLACES, BUT IT'S ALWAYS GOOD TO GET A REFRESHER COURSE.

HELP ME OUT HERE.

>> SO JUST GIVE IT A CAST, AND THE WAY YOU'RE GONNA BE CASTING THIS ROD IS YOU'RE GONNA BE BRINGING IT RIGHT OVER YOUR SHOULDER.

>> OH.

>> RIGHT THERE.

HOLD IT AND THEN CAST IT OUT BUT MORE OF A GENTLE CAST, SO IT'S KIND OF MORE IN YOUR WRIST.

SO THERE YOU GO.

JUST PRACTICE THAT MOTION.

THAT'S PRETTY GOOD.

>> "A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT."

DO I LOOK LIKE BRAD PITT AT ALL?

>> IF YOU GET TO BE A LITTLE TALLER, YOU'D BE BRAD PITT.

>> OH, OK. JUST TALLER?

NOTHING ELSE, HUH?

OK, OK!

WHOA!

>> THERE WE GO!

>> THAT'S THE FIRST TIME I EVER CAUGHT A FISH FLY FISHING.

>> ALL RIGHT.

JUST SLOWLY STRIP IT IN.

>> BRING HIM IN?

>> THAT WILL BE ENOUGH RIGHT THERE.

>> OK. >> JUST NOW SLOWLY DRAG HIM TOWARDS ME.

>> WHOA, HO HO!

HE'S A LIVELY ONE.

LET'S HAVE HIM GROW FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS.

>> THERE YOU GO.

>> THERE HE GOES!

ALL RIGHT!

>> RIGHT ON.

>> HEY!

I'M NOT A BAD STUDENT.

>> HA HA HA!

NO.

YOU DID VERY WELL.

ALL RIGHT, JOSEPH.

WELL, WHY DON'T YOU REEL IN YOUR LINE?

>> OHH!

ALL RIGHT.

>> I'M SORRY.

>> ALL GOOD THINGS HAVE TO COME TO AN END, I GUESS, THEY SAY.

THANK YOU SO MUCH.

I JUST NEED TO BE IN A BEAUTIFUL PLACE LIKE THIS SO I CAN TRY--HEY!

LOOK!

AS I'M COMING IN HERE!

HA HA!

>> ON THE LAST CAST.

>> ON THE LAST CAST.

LOOK AT THAT.

>> BEAUTIFUL.

THERE YOU GO.

LAST FISH OF THE DAY.

>> THAT WAS A FINAL FAREWELL.

FINAL FAREWELL.

LET'S PUT HIM BACK IN THE WATER.

HE'S A LITTLE ONE.

THAT WAS A GOOD SIGN, DAN.

>> THAT WAS GREAT.

>> THEY WERE SAYING, "COME ON BACK."

AFTER AN EXCITING DAY OF CATCHING FISH AND BATTLING MOSQUITOES, WE HEAD BACK TO THE COMFORTS OF STEWART'S LODGE TO CELEBRATE WITH A HOME-COOKED MEAL AND A FRIENDLY CHAT AROUND THE CAMPFIRE.

YOUR FATHER WAS ONE OF THE FIRST PEOPLE IN THIS AREA.

WHAT BROUGHT HIM UP HERE?

>> WELL, HE WAS JUST AN ADVENTURER.

HE WANTED TO EXPLORE BRITISH COLUMBIA, AND HE LOVED TO HUNT AND FISH AND CAME OUT HERE.

THERE WAS NO ONE HERE, SO HE BOUGHT 40 ACRES OF LAND FOR $400, AND HERE WE ARE 60 YEARS LATER.

>> YOU KNOW WHAT'S IMPRESSIVE TO ME BEING HERE IS THAT EVEN THOUGH THIS IS KIND OF LIKE A LITTLE SETTLEMENT HERE, RIGHT OVER THERE AT THE END OF THE LAKE WILDERNESS STARTS, AND THEN YOU DON'T SEE ANYBODY FOR A LONG, LONG TIME.

>> YEAH.

I THINK A LOT OF THE PEOPLE LOVE THE FACT THAT THE COUNTRY'S SO WILD AND THERE'S STILL PLENTY OF ANIMALS, MAYBE SEE A BEAR AND ENJOY THE QUIETNESS.

>> IT'S REALLY QUIET HERE.

IT IS INCREDIBLY QUIET EXCEPT FOR THE LOON, WHICH IS POETRY.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALLOWING ME TO SHARE IT WITH YOU.

>> YOU'RE SO WELCOME.

[LOON CALLS] [LOON CALLS] >> FROM THE EXPANSIVE CHILCOTIN PLATEAU I JOURNEY EAST ACROSS THE FRASER RIVER INTO THE CARIBOO.

KNOWN FOR RANCHES, RODEOS, REMOTE LAKES, AND STUNNING MOUNTAINS, 150 YEARS AGO, THE CARIBOO WAS FAMOUS FOR ITS GOLD!

IN 1862, BILLY BARKER PULLED SO MUCH GOLD OUT OF WILLIAMS CREEK THAT THEY NAMED THE TOWN THAT SPRUNG UP AFTER HIM.

AT ONE TIME, BARKERVILLE WAS THE LARGEST SETTLEMENT NORTH OF SAN FRANCISCO AND WEST OF CHICAGO, AND WHILE THE BOOM WENT BUST, THE TOWN AND THE GOLD RUSH LIVE ON IN HISTORIC BARKERVILLE... >> MORE GOLD.

HOLY SMOKES!

>> WHERE YOU CAN STILL PAN FOR GOLD IN BILLY'S CREEK.

>> GONNA PUT ENOUGH WATER IN OUR PAN JUST TO COVER OUR DIRT.

WE'RE GONNA GIVE IT A GOOD SHAKE.

WHAT YOU NEED TO REMEMBER IS YOUR GOLD IS 7-10 TIMES THE WEIGHT OF YOUR DIRT, ABOUT 20 TIMES THE WEIGHT OF WATER, SO WHEN YOU SHAKE IT, IT'S GOING TO THE BOTTOM.

>> KIND OF NERVE-RACKING.

I MAY BE THROWING $1,000 OUT THERE.

>> YOU GOT TO KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE PAN AT ALL TIMES.

>> MY GOSH.

>> HARDEST PART ABOUT GOLD PANNING IS GETTING OVER THE FEAR THE GOLD'S LEAVING THE PAN.

AND THERE WE ARE.

YOU CAN SEE RIGHT THERE.

>> THERE YOU GO.

NOW BILLY BARKER PULLED OUT $600,000 AT A TIME WHEN GOLD WAS $18 AN OUNCE.

NOW IT'S $1,500 AN OUNCE.

THAT WOULD BE ABOUT $50 MILLION!

>> AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT, HE ENDED UP DYING POOR, COMPLETELY PENNILESS.

>> THAT'S OFTEN THE STORY OF THE PROSPECTORS, ISN'T IT?

>> YEAH.

IT'S A FAST RISE, AND IT'S A FAST FALL.

>> WELL, YOU KNOW, MOST OF THEM DID IT FOR THE THRILL, AND THE MONEY, THAT DIDN'T REALLY MATTER.

>> YOU BET YOU.

>> THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND YOUR EXPERTISE, MAN.

>> ABSOLUTELY.

>> WE'VE GOT GOLD!

>> YOU'VE GOT GOLD!

>> WHEN THE GOLD RUSH BOOM ENDED, BARKERVILLE'S FORTUNES FADED.

BY 1958, IT WAS IN NEED OF SOME RENOVATION.

THE RESIDENTS AND THE FRIENDS OF BARKERVILLE PETITIONED THE PROVINCE OF BRITISH COLUMBIA TO CLOSE THE ROAD, DECLARE IT AN HISTORIC SITE, AND OPEN IT FOR VISITORS.

SOME OF THE STORES THAT ARE HERE TODAY LIKE MASON & DALY WERE PART OF THAT REBIRTH.

THIS IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE STOPS, A CANDY STORE.

LOOKS TOO GOOD, SIR.

>> HOW DO YOU DO?

>> VERY NICE TO MEET YOU.

NOW UNDERSTAND YOU AND YOUR FAMILY HAVE BEEN HERE FOR OVER 20 YEARS IN THIS BUILDING.

>> THIS IS OUR 31st SUMMER.

>> 31st!

MAYBE I COULD SAMPLE SOME OF YOUR GOODS HERE.

>> ABSOLUTELY!

>> WHAT WOULD YOU SUGGEST?

>> HOW ABOUT A BLACK FOREST FUDGE?

>> WHOA!

LOOK AT THAT.

>> WE SOAK THE CHERRIES IN OVER-PROOF BRANDY, AND THEN WE HAVE A RESULT I THINK YOU'LL ENJOY.

>> OH, MY GOSH.

THAT'S WONDERFUL.

DO YOU EAT A LITTLE BIT OF IT YOURSELF?

>> WELL, IT SHOWS, DOESN'T IT?

>> HA HA HA!

THANK YOU FOR SWEETENING UP MY DAY.

>> OH.

MY PLEASURE.

>> WANT TO SPEND THE NIGHT IN BARKERVILLE?

THE ONLY ROOMS IN TOWN ARE AT THE SAINT GEORGE HOTEL.

EXCUSE ME, MADAM.

>> YES.

>> IS THIS A NICE HOTEL?

>> IT'S A LOVELY HOTEL.

IT'S MINE.

>> OH.

OH, GOOD.

WELL, THEN GOES WITHOUT SAYING THAT IT'S A WONDERFUL HOTEL.

>> IT WAS BUILT IN 1898 ORIGINALLY AS A SALOON AND BROTHEL, BUT THESE DAYS, YOU NEED TO BRING YOUR OWN WOMAN.

>> I'LL KEEP THAT IN MIND!

YOU HAVE THAT NEW INVENTION, IN-HOUSE BATHROOMS?

>> OH.

WELL, DESPITE IT'S 18th CENTURY CHARM, WE DO HAVE 21st CENTURY AMENITIES.

>> HA HA HA!

WELL, THIS IS SAYA, WHO'S ALSO MY PROPRIETOR HERE NOW AT THE SAINT GEORGE HOTEL, AND I UNDERSTAND THAT YOU ACTUALLY LIVE HERE.

>> I'M BARKERVILLE'S ONE AND ONLY RESIDENT.

>> NOW WHAT'S THAT LIKE?

>> IT'S EXCELLENT.

MY RELATIONSHIPS WITH MY NEIGHBORS IS FANTASTIC.

>> DOESN'T IT GET LONELY?

>> NOT AT ALL.

EVERY NIGHT ,I HAVE PEOPLE HERE FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD.

>> THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HOSPITALITY WHILE I'VE BEEN HERE.

LET ME BE THE GENTLEMAN.

>> THANK YOU.

>> MOST OF BARKERVILLE'S POPULATION LIVES IN NEARBY WELLS, WHICH HAD ITS GOLD RUSH DURING THE GREAT DEPRESSION OF THE 1930s.

TODAY THE TOWN'S WEALTH IS ROOTED IN ITS BEAUTIFUL SETTING AND THE ARTISTIC AND COMMUNITY SPIRIT OF ITS 250 RESIDENTS.

IT'S CALLED AMAZING SPACE, AND CERTAINLY IT HAS A CELESTIAL SOUND TO IT.

IT WAS A CHURCH.

>> WELL, IT WAS THE HOLY ROSARY CATHOLIC CHURCH, BUILT IN 1939.

THERE WAS 5,000 PEOPLE LIVING HERE THEN.

>> SO AS THE BUILDING HAS EVOLVED FROM BEING A CHURCH TO THIS WONDERFUL ART GALLERY, CERTAINLY THE TOWN HAS CHANGED, TOO.

I UNDERSTAND IT'S BECOME AN ARTIST COMMUNITY.

>> IT HAS A HISTORY OF THAT.

FRED WELLS, WHO FOUNDED THE TOWN, WOULD ALWAYS HIRE MINERS WHO EITHER PLAYED A MUSICAL INSTRUMENT OR PLAYED SPORTS.

>> OH!

>> AND SO IT WOULD KEEP A NICE, WELL-ROUNDED COMMUNITY.

>> WHAT IS IT ABOUT THIS PLACE THAT INSPIRES ARTISTS AND YOURSELF?

>> WELL, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.

IT'S A VERY REAL PLACE, AND THE PEOPLE HERE ARE AS AUTHENTIC AS YOU CAN FIND ANYWHERE, AND IT'S A WONDERFUL FEELING THAT WE HAVE.

>> WELL, DURING OUR STAY HERE, WE CERTAINLY HAVE SEEN THE MANY DIFFERENT SIDES OF THIS LITTLE COMMUNITY.

SO THANKS FOR ADDING TO IT.

>> THANK YOU.

>> THE MOST COMMUNAL OF ALL HOLIDAYS IS A COUNTRY'S NATIONAL DAY, AND I'M FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO BE IN THE CARIBOO IN TIME TO JOIN IN BARKERVILLE'S CANADA CELEBRATIONS.

JULY 1, 1867, SEVERAL OF THE PROVINCES OF WHAT WE NOW CALL CANADA CAME TOGETHER TO FORM CANADA.

IT'S CANADA DAY OR DOMINION DAY.

THERE'S LOTS OF FESTIVITIES GOING ON, A PARADE, AND LOTS OF FUN AND GAMES.

>> WHOO!

[GUNSHOT] HAPPY DOMINION DAY!

>> HAPPY DOMINION DAY!

>> IN BARKERVILLE, THE FOLKS WHO REENACT THE PAST LIVE IT WITH SUCH FERVOR THAT AFTER A DAY OF BEING HERE I'VE CAUGHT THEIR SPIRIT, AND I'M LIVING IT MYSELF.

>> WHOO-HOO-HOO-HOO!

>> YAY!

>> THANK YOU SO MUCH.

THAT WAS SO NICE.

NEARBY, BOWRON LAKES PROVINCIAL PARK IS NOTED FOR ITS 72-MILE CANOE CIRCUIT WHERE PADDLERS TRAVEL THROUGH A CHAIN OF LAKES AND CONNECTING RIVERS, STREAMS, AND PORTAGES AND AFTER ABOUT A WEEK END UP WHERE THEY BEGAN.

>> WHAT I THINK IS ONE OF THE CROWN JEWELS OF THE PARK IS RIGHT HERE IN THE BOWRON MARSH.

IT'S JUST A HALF-DAY TRIP FROM THE HEAD OF THE LAKE SYSTEM.

IT'S SURROUNDED BY BEAUTIFUL MOUNTAINS, AND IT'S JUST TEEMING WITH WILDLIFE.

LOOK.

THERE'S A MOOSE, JOSEPH, ON THE LEFT.

>> WOW.

>> THIS IS ONE OF THE GREAT THINGS ABOUT THE BOWRON MARSH.

IT'S AN IDEAL MOOSE HABITAT.

>> IS THAT A NEWBORN?

>> THAT CALF IS 2, 3 WEEKS OLD RIGHT NOW.

LISTEN.

YOU CAN HEAR IT MEWING A BIT.

IT'S TO ITS MUM.

>> YEAH?

>> OH, LOOK.

THERE IT GOES.

[MEWING] BEAUTIFUL, ISN'T IT?

>> WONDERFUL.

>> THIS IS THE IDEAL SITUATION, YOU KNOW, WHEN THEY COME TO YOU.

CAN'T QUITE SEE, BUT IT MIGHT ACTUALLY BE LOOKING TO SUCKLE ON THAT COW RIGHT NOW.

THAT'S HOW COMFORTABLE THEY ARE WITH US RIGHT NOW.

>> I THINK THAT'S PRETTY GREAT.

>> YEAH.

ISN'T THAT AMAZING?

>> IT'S KIND OF A COMPLIMENT, ISN'T IT?

>> YEAH.

>> WHAT'S THAT NOISE?

IS THAT A MOTOR BOAT, DAVE?

I THOUGHT THERE WEREN'T ANY MOTOR BOATS ALLOWED ON THE LAKE.

>> IT'S ONE OF THE PARK WARDEN BOATS.

SO THEY'RE OUT ON PATROL RIGHT NOW.

JOSEPH, LOOK.

THAT POWERBOAT, IT SPOOKED THOSE MOOSE OUT OF THE WILLOWS.

>> HOO HOO HOO!

>> YEAH.

NOW THAT CALF'S GONNA HAVE TO START SWIMMING IN HERE.

>> HE CAN SWIM ACROSS THAT?

>> YEAH.

THEY CAN SWIM ALMOST IMMEDIATELY.

WHOA.

THIS IS AMAZING.

>> OH, MY GOSH.

HA HA HA!

>> HA HA HA!

OH, DEAR.

>> THIS IS A TOURISM POSTER.

>> I'M NOT SURE HOW TO MAKE IT ANY NICER FOR YOU THAN THIS.

>> BEAUTIFUL.

ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL.

THANK YOU FOR JOINING ME ON MY ADVENTURE.

CANADA IS THE SECOND LARGEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD, AND YET IT'S LESS POPULATED THAN CALIFORNIA.

CONSEQUENTLY IT HAS THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS OF MILES OF WILDERNESS.

HERE IN THE CARIBOO CHILCOTIN COAST REGION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA, WE'VE LEARNED THAT EVEN WHEN YOU FIND CIVILIZATION WILDERNESS IS NOT THAT FAR AWAY.

IT'S JUST OVER A MOUNTAIN, DOWN A RIVER, AROUND A BEND, AND WHAT'S NICE IS YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE A DIEHARD BACKPACKER OR EXPERT HIKER TO EXPERIENCE IT.

CARIBOO CHILCOTIN COAST HAS ALL THE COMFORTS, AS WELL AS ADVENTURES THAT CAN BE AS HARD OR SOFT AS YOU WANT, AND AS ALWAYS, MEETING AND LEARNING ABOUT THE PEOPLE WHO LIVE HERE IS ONE OF THEM.

FINALLY, THIS REGION REMINDS ME OF THE WORDS OF POET ROBERT SERVICE, WHO SAID, "IT'S THE GREAT BIG BROAD LAND WAY UP YONDER, IT'S THE FOREST WHERE STILLNESS HAS LEASE, IT'S THE BEAUTY THAT THRILLS ME WITH WONDER, IT'S THE STILLNESS THAT FILLS ME WITH PEACE."

TILL NEXT TIME, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN--"TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS."

HAPPY TRAVELING.

>> "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVELSCOPE" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY: VOLVO'S OVERSEAS DELIVERY PROGRAM, WHERE BUYERS CAN PICK UP A NEW VOLVO IN SWEDEN, USE IT IN EUROPE, AND THEN HAVE IT JOIN THEM AT HOME; NO-JET-LAG JET LAG PREVENTION; AUBERGE RESORTS' DISTINCTIVE COLLECTION OF LUXURY RESORTS, RESIDENCES, AND SPAS.

FOR A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S "TRAVELSCOPE" ADVENTURES, CALL 888-876-3399 OR ORDER ONLINE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET.

YOU CAN ALSO E-MAIL US AT TV@TRAVELSCOPE.NET OR WRITE US AT THE ADDRESS ON YOUR SCREEN.

>> NOW THAT WE'VE DISCOVERED NEW ADVENTURES IN BRITISH COLUMBIA, LEARN MORE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET, WHERE YOU CAN FOLLOW MY ADVENTURES THROUGH MY E-MAGAZINE, BLOG, PODCAST, AND ON FACEBOOK!

KEEP IN TOUCH.

888-876-3399 OR TV@TRAVELSCOPE.NET.

[CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY FRIENDS OF NCI] [CAPTIONED BY THE NATIONAL CAPTIONING INSTITUTE --www.ncicap.org--] >> THERE'S A FEW REAL SHRIMP FOR YOUR BARBIE.

>> THAT'S A GENTLEMANLY THING TO SAY, SIR.

>> ♪ THE MOSQUITO DANCE THE MOSQUITO DANCE THE MOSQUITO DANCE ♪ >> HA HA HA!

>> OHH!