LANDMARKS
LANDMARKS: Highway 23
5/28/2020 | 55m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Follow Minnesota photographer and storyteller Doug Ohman along Highway 23
Follow Minnesota photographer and storyteller Doug Ohman along Highway 23 which runs in a diagonal line from Minnesota’s southwest corner into the heart of Minnesota and hear the unique stories from small towns along the way.
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LANDMARKS is a local public television program presented by Pioneer PBS
This program is made possible by contributions from the voters of Minnesota through a legislative appropriation from the Arts and Cultural Heritage Fund and viewers like you.
LANDMARKS
LANDMARKS: Highway 23
5/28/2020 | 55m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Follow Minnesota photographer and storyteller Doug Ohman along Highway 23 which runs in a diagonal line from Minnesota’s southwest corner into the heart of Minnesota and hear the unique stories from small towns along the way.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship(singular woodwind ethereal music) - [Doug] During the late 19th century, the railroad provided the primary means of overland travel for most Americans.
A century later, road tripping began a movement that would grow into an American pastime.
During these early years, neither automobiles nor auto touring could be considered within reach for most Americans.
As time went on, automobiles became more popular, thanks to rising wages, falling prices for used cars, expanding opportunities to buy these machines on credit, and especially at the introduction of Henry Ford's revolutionary Model T in 1908.
Along with the availability of automobiles, roads that were once just wagon trails, began to be built and improved upon.
Governments at the local, state and federal levels, began to invest in road networks and building bridges.
By the end of World War I, Minnesota tourists might still encounter thousands of miles of battered, gravel trails littered with potholes.
Soon, the increasing pace of improvements, made it far easier to drive through the state than it had been for those who had attempted such a journey only a decade before.
(upbeat bass music) My name is Doug Ohman, and I'm a Minnesota photographer and historic storyteller.
I want to invite you to ride along with me on one of my favorite highways in the state, Highway 23.
As we travel together from south to north on the highway, we will encounter many interesting landmarks with stories just waiting to be told and experienced.
Along with these landmarks we will see many towns and villages that are fun places to explore.
At one time, many portions of the old Highway 23 went right through many towns, and actually made up many main streets.
Today in a lot of places, unfortunately, the highway zips us around on a bypass, never stopping long enough to experience, or even know the many interesting stories found along this historic byway.
For that reason I want to encourage you to sit back, enjoy the ride, as we road trip together, driving slow, stopping off and on a old-fashioned road trip.
(swinging horns band music) Our trip begins in the very Southwest corner of Minnesota.
We will drive northeast, and if we continue on that highway for nearly 350 miles, we will eventually arrive at the Port of Deluth.
Along this amazing highway we will hear some of the best Minnesota stories, see some great landmarks, meet amazing people, and enjoy miles of Midwest beauty.
Remember, it's not the destination, but the journey.
(flowing, swinging jazzy horns music) (insect chirping) (upbeat, jazzy trumpet and horns band music) Every road trip has a beginning.
And it think a good place to start is at a little known landmark just a short distance from where Highway 23 technically begins.
South of Interstate 90, at the very corner of three states, South Dakota, Iowa, and Minnesota, sits the Tri-State Iron Post historical marker.
As I get out of my car to see this landmark up close, I think about what this small corner of the frontier looked like in 1859, when the marker was first set in place to designate the Minnesota and Iowa border.
(upbeat swinging horns music) Back in the car, let's head north on a county road to find the actual beginning of Highway 23.
(car tires crunching) I wish for a more glamorous or exciting beginning of the highway, but we must deal with reality.
That our highway actually starts on the overpass on Interstate 90.
Leaving the noise of the interstate, we are ready to continue our road trip northward.
The road is smooth and effortless as it gently rolls by farms, and an occasional country church.
This part of Rock County might give the traveler the feeling of slow motion, or that life is to be enjoyed at a slower pace.
(upbeat, swinging, jazzy horns and piano music) Construction of the current highway in this part of Southwest Minnesota was started in 1937 and completed a year later.
Before this time, in order to get from town to town, travelers had to take secondary roads that are today only used by the locals.
Our first town is Jasper.
And we are greeted by what might be the largest town sign in Minnesota.
Jasper Yards is painted on the side of an old lumberyard building as you come into town.
One of the first things after the sign that you notice about Jasper is the downtown buildings.
Many of these historic buildings were constructed using local stone called Sioux Quartzite, which gives the town its visual identity.
Who better to tell us this story of this town, and who built it, than local historian and legend, Geraldine Pederson.
- Hello, there.
We're so lucky to have you come today.
And we want to tell you a little bit about our Jasper.
The town's history begins with the five Ray Brothers.
They found the quarry deposits in 1887.
Now there wasn't a town here.
There wasn't anything except the pioneers.
(lively bagpipe music) They had been stone masons in their own country, Scotland.
(lively bagpipe and drums music) Right away, all they needed to start a quarry was stone hammers and chisels.
(tools clinking) They didn't have to have big mechanized equipment.
- [Doug] They probably didn't even have mechanized equipment back in those days.
- Oh no, (laughs) nothing.
But they got the quarry up and running the very first year they opened.
And Jasper didn't have any kind of transportation then except horse and buggy, or walking.
- [Doug] Wow.
- But the very next year in 1888, Jasper got train service.
The train came to Jasper.
(train steam huffing) (plaintive piano music) And by 1922, Jasper had grown to 1,000 people.
Jasper has over two dozen stone buildings, churches, school, business places.
- [Doug] Do you have a favorite?
- I used to say they were all my favorites, but now I know which one is truly my favorite is the school that I went to for all my life.
I started there as a first grader, and I graduated there.
- [Doug] Now, is it the school right up the street here?
- Absolutely.
- Okay.
- And it's very important to me.
And it's just been named to the National Historic Register in the last month.
(elegant piano music) - [Doug] Isn't it great how all of these things tie together?
The quarry, the railroad, the town, Highway 23, the state park, everything works to keep this part of Minnesota alive.
(building strings music) Saying goodbye to Geraldine, we are ready to see the quarry in action.
Brian Phelps is the general manager of the quarry.
And he has agreed to give us an up close tour.
It's great to be out at your quarry.
I call it your quarry.
- Well, well thank you.
- It's the Jasper quarry.
Right?
- You betcha.
Out of Jasper, Minnesota, we take the quartzite stone, which is actually one of the world's hardest stones, it's about eight times harder than granite.
And, I like to tell people infinitely harder than limestone.
But it's hard, it's almost as hard as a diamond.
- Is that right?
- And we quarry it out of the ground.
We drill holes, use dynamite, blast it with explosives, and try to bring stone out of the ground about the size of a pickup truck.
And from there we saw it under our big, a diamond saws that come out of Italy.
And we make things like for the industrial market, for big industrial mills.
We make things for headstones, we do architectural for buildings, building facades, interiors and exteriors, landscaping.
And, we're also doing road gravel for construction, aggregates, railroad ballasts, things of that nature out of this quarry.
Because it is so hard, and it's such a desirable stone.
- How deep does the stone that you want go?
- Well, quartzite runs, it's very unique.
It's the only place in the world that exists.
It goes from about Mitchell, South Dakota, through Southern Minnesota to the Wisconsin Dells.
And it's a band about 30 to 40 miles wide.
And nobody really knows how deep it goes.
We like to think it goes about a mile deep into the ground.
(machine whirring) - Well Brian, I've really enjoyed being here at the quarry today.
You've shown me how the rock starts, and how you guys, your process starts.
How do we get it to market?
- [Brian] Here in Jasper, everything goes in and out via Highway 23.
- [Doug] 23 is where it starts.
- Where it starts.
- Highway 23?
- Right off of 23.
- Thank you my friend.
- You bet, Doug.
(tires crunching) (ethereal low music) - [Doug] Just north of Jasper, travelers can't help but notice an amazing collection of historic windmills.
Terry Rodman and his wife Kris, began collecting and constructing windmills on their farm in the late 1990s.
Today they have a collection from all over the world.
It almost makes you feel that you are in the united nations of windmills.
From South America to Africa, from Canada to Europe, the Rodmans have traveled far and wide to find windmills.
My favorite is one from right here in Minnesota, the Northwest Wind Engine Company, made in Minneapolis.
- Well, we started about 20 years ago, 1999.
And had just, we put one up and people wanted to know if you got that one, do you want another one?
And, well yeah okay.
So we go get that and pretty soon, "Well I got one, do you want that?"
"Well I got one," it just grew from there with them.
You know, and then we started looking for windmills also, after we had a few of them up.
(light acoustic music) - Now we're right on 23.
People come over.
- Yes.
- They gravitate to this one, don't they?
- Yes they do, yeah.
We have a guest book in there, and ask people to sign it.
- [Doug] So you encourage people to come here?
- [Kris] Oh sure, mm-hm.
- But they come right off the highway because they see you.
- Yes, yes.
(light, peaceful acoustic guitar music) (building ethereal strings music) (adding peaceful flute music) (truck engine roars) - We soon arrive at one of my favorite towns along the route, Pipestone.
I'm anxious to learn the history of this town, but first thing's first, I'm hungry.
Lang's Cafe, where old friends meet, is a place that not only has good food, but a great story.
And that should be told by no other than Steve Lang himself.
Steve, I've been driving up Highway 23.
And I have to stop at Lang's.
It's a landmark right here in Pipestone, isn't it?
- Yes it is, and I thank you for stopping here, because it's customers that keep the door open.
- [Doug] The story starts in 1955 when Steve's dad and uncle decided to buy this restaurant.
The original restaurant was in this location on Highway 23 since 1931.
- I actually was nine years old when my dad and uncle bought the restaurant.
And I was a skinny kid until then.
(both laugh) And then I found out that french fries and malts were really good.
- [Doug] A number of years later, after returning from Vietnam, Steve started helping his mom run the restaurant after his dad had passed away.
And for the next 46 years, Steve has kept Lang's open as a landmark along Highway 23.
Before I leave Lang's I have to ask Steve about the story of the front door keys.
Is it true that when you laid the cement sidewalk that you took the keys for the front door, put them in them wet cement, buried them and said you would never close.
- Well that wasn't me.
(laughs) - [Doug] Okay that wasn't you.
Was that your dad?
- That was my dad and uncle.
- Okay.
- And, the front door that is still the door, that is the exact door that they put on in 1961 when they put the first addition, real addition on to this business.
Put a double door entry in.
And they did, they took the keys for those two locks, walked out front, and as they were pouring the sidewalk, ceremoniously said, "Here's to never closing," and dropped the keys in the cement.
- [Doug] He dropped the keys in the cement.
- And that is a true story.
And people say, every time I've added on then I'm out there hammering cement and they ask me what I'm up to, and I said, "I'm still looking for the darn keys."
- (laughs) That's a great story.
And that's what I love about these stops on 23.
There's always a good story.
And Lang's is certainly the story of Pipestone, or part of that story, anyway.
- [Steve] Well thank you.
- [Doug] After enjoying a cup of coffee with Steve, I can't wait to see and hear the story of Pipestone, from the man that knows and loves it, Myron Koets.
I have agreed to meet Myron at the historic Veteran's Monument on the courthouse lawn.
What I didn't expect was a trip back in time.
(amusing, bouncy woodwinds music) - I'm standing in front of the Civil War statue, and this is kind of an interesting story.
In that as much as Pipestone was not even an incorporated city during the Civil War.
So why, do you ask, do we have a Civil War statue here?
Well one of the entrepreneurs that came to Pipestone was Leon Moore, and he was an artist.
And also was a owner of the quarry for a period of time.
And with that, he decided to dedicate this statue to the men of the Civil War, and of the Spanish American War who actually settled here in Pipestone.
Took him nearly two years to build.
Now what's interesting about this, just last year in 1900, this courthouse was dedicated, and so was the statue in honoring the early settlers of Pipestone.
- [Doug] As much as I want to stay in the past, I really want to see Pipestone today.
Myron travels through time and meets me on Main Street out in front of the historic Calumet Hotel.
(car revving up) - Hi Myron!
- Hey Doug, welcome to Pipestone!
- Thank you.
- How has been your trip up Highway 23?
- Oh it's been great.
- Has it really?
- Yeah, you know I've had so much fun, I ate at Lang's.
- Did you?
Okay good.
- Your landmark right here in Pipestone you know that.
- Did you have one of the cinnamon rolls?
- I had some pie.
- [Myron] Oh, sour cream raisin!
- [Doug] Oh their pie is the best.
- [Myron] Yes it is, yes it is.
- So I'm in Pipestone, love your town.
I always have loved Pipestone.
- Well thank you.
- You know what I like about it?
It's so unique, the buildings, the architecture.
- [Myron] Yes, because it was all founded on the Sioux quartzite stone that was quarried just to the north of Pipestone here, close to the National Monument.
- [Doug] Is it the same kind of stone as a quarry in Jasper?
- [Myron] No, it's not.
Actually when you look at buildings in Pipestone, there's kind of a redder stone, and then there's a pink stone.
- [Doug] So what do you do here in Pipestone?
- Well.
- This is your home.
- Yes, it's my home, born and raised here, left for a number of years, came back, and became mayor, which is always an interesting subject.
- You're the mayor?
- I'm the mayor.
- Let me shake your hand again.
- Oh thank you!
(Doug laughs) Is that in sympathy or in congratulations?
- Well maybe, I'll let you answer that.
(laughs) - (laughs) Okay.
- [Doug] Now Highway 23 is pretty important to your town, isn't it?
- Absolutely, because Highway 23 is unique, in it's the only highway that runs from southwest to northeast, diagonally across Minnesota.
So there's a lot of commerce that'll come off of Interstate 90, move on up in that direction.
So it's very important for tourism, especially during the fishing season there's a lot of traffic that comes through from Nebraska and wherever.
(low, ethereal music) - [Doug] A traveler can't come to Pipestone without a visit to the Pipestone National Monument.
Lauren Blacik is the current superintendent of the monument, and is waiting for me to arrive for a personal tour.
- Pipestone National Monument was designated in 1937, making it the first National Parks Service unit in the state of Minnesota.
And it had a really unique purpose from the beginning.
Pipestone National Monument (tool clinking) was designated to protect the rights of Native Americans to quarry pipestone here.
And for over 3,000 years, Native Americans have been coming to this place to quarry pipestone used to carve pipes that are use in prayer, and in ceremony.
So this has been a sacred, important place for a very long time.
- [Doug] And how does Highway 23 work for you here at the monument?
- Yeah, we're very close to Highway 23, of course.
So we get a lot of visitors coming off of Highway 23.
We see over 70,000 visitors a year here at the monument.
And, some of our visitors have come back many times.
This is a place of connection and peace, and a place they want to keep coming back to.
We also have a number of visitors who don't neccessarily know what to expect when visiting here.
They see the sign and they come, and I think are really, struck by the story and the cultures that Pipestone National Monument exposes people to, yeah.
(tools clinking) (bright acoustic guitar music) (engine roars) - [Doug] Back on the highway heading north of Pipestone, the most notable roadside landmarks are the hundreds of modern wind turbines dotting the fields and hillsides.
We are now traveling across the geological formation known as the Buffalo Ridge.
The Ridge stands at 1,995 feet above sea level, and runs about 60 miles long through many of the counties in Southwest Minnesota.
Because of the elevation, the area is ideal for capturing wind energy.
It also is a drainage divide separating the watersheds of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers.
From Pipestone to the next major town of Marshall, Highway 23 bypasses a number of sleepy villages that were once vibrant hamlets.
(truck engine roars) (light orchestral music) Highway 23 was Main Street, and with that businesses thrived in these towns, thanks to the constant stream of travelers.
Especially during the summer months.
(light orchestral music) Today the quiet streets and vacant storefronts tell another story.
(light orchestral woodwinds music) Just south of Marshall, we will stop at Camden State Park.
(car swooshes) Camden is one of only a few parks in Minnesota that was constructed by the New Deal work program during The Great Depression, known as the VCC, the Veterans Conservation Corps.
(low bass music) (amusing bass oboe music) My visit will start with my old friend, Bill Dinesen who is the park supervisor.
I just came off of Highway 23.
Want to spend some time at Camden State Park today.
Do I need a park sticker?
- You do.
By Minnesota State Law you do need a vehicle permit for your car, it's either $7.00 for daily permits, or the annual permit that's good for 12 months from when you buy it, is $35.
And it's good at all Minnesota State Parks.
- [Doug] I gonna ask you that, can I use it anywhere in Minnesota?
- Correct.
- [Doug] Well that's not a bad deal, is it?
- That's a wonderful deal.
- [Doug] And the money goes to support our parks?
- [Bill] Correct, the money all comes back into our state parks.
- [Doug] That's great, love that.
Bill, this time of year, what's the high point of your park?
- Probably the fall colors, - Okay.
- And the changing of seasons.
Our park has a wide variety of prairie, or hardwoods.
And then you're gonna have the bottom land hardwoods at the Redwood River.
So the changes of the colors of the oaks, the maples, the basswood, to the sumac, to the prairie grasses and wildflowers, so quite spectacular some years.
- [Doug] Now you wouldn't know that from Highway 23.
- [Bill] No, driving along Highway 23 it gives you one view of the park, but when you come into the park, you can drop down into the Redwood River valley.
And it's about 200 feet elevation difference than up where we are here at the office.
And it's a quite a difference in environment and tree and shrub species there.
- [Doug] How big is the park?
- [Bill] The park is about 2,400 acres.
- [Doug] That's a good size park.
- [Bill] It's a very good sized park.
We're about two miles and about three miles long.
(easy going acoustic guitar music) - [Doug] Leaving the park station with my car sticker in hand, I am excited to meet up with local historian, Bill Palmer, who grew up coming to the park as a kid.
- Bill, great to see you again.
- Doug, it's good to be seen again.
Welcome back to Camden.
- [Doug] Great state park.
- [Bill P.] Camden is a place where I kind of grew up with Camden.
My folks believed in camping, and we lived in Marshall.
- [Doug] Okay.
- [Bill P.] So seven miles away, so we would come to Camden pretty regularly for camping and for some picnics.
And so I spent a lot of time exploring it as a kid, and swimming at the beach here in water that felt way too cold all the time.
- [Doug] Well, it's spring fed, isn't it?
- [Bill P.] It is, yup spring fed.
- This park, besides being a great recreational park today, didn't start today.
It has rich history, doesn't it?
- Oh absolutely.
August 10, 1934 was the date that 200 veterans, so it wasn't a CCC camp, it was a VCC camp, Veteran's Conservation Corps camp.
They were the older guys.
They were all World War I veterans, 200 of them, got off the train in Marshall, and then a caravan of army trucks to come down here.
And they set up a temporary tent camp, we drove right through it on the way down here.
They started building Camden.
(flowing, contemplative orchestral music) - Now as I look at the buildings here, I'm impressed with the stonework.
Where did the stone come from?
- It was all field stones, collected from this park-- - So this all local.
- It's all local.
- It wasn't brought in.
- The thing that was brought in was the stonework for like the windowsills and stuff that had to be sort of finally cut.
And that came out of Mankato.
- [Doug] Okay, okay.
- [Bill P.] But otherwise, everything we're seeing here is fieldstones, and if you look carefully, you can see the marks on the fieldstones where they used hand drills, - [Doug] I can see that right here.
- [Bill P.] To drill the rock and then split it.
- Well Bill this has been great.
Let's walk around the park, show me a couple other interesting buildings or landscapes that help tell the story.
- [Bill P.] Absolutely.
- [Doug] After seeing the park up close with my new friend and guide, Bill Palmer, I realize that we are so lucky to have state parks throughout Minnesota, to help us get back to nature.
And also to appreciate our history.
I am left with a new sense of gratitude to those veterans of long ago, who during a dark chapter in American history worked so hard to leave us this legacy landmark.
(engine roars) (upbeat bass and acoustic guitar music) Arriving in the town of Marshall there are a few sections of the old road in town.
But to find it, you have to know where to look.
Marshall is a regional center in Southwest Minnesota, and the county seat of Lyon County.
Most of us know the town as the headquarters of the Schwan's food company, and home of Southwest State University.
(elegant piano music) Before arriving in Hanley Falls, we will pass a couple more towns with charming names.
(flowing classical piano music) These towns are trying to hold on to their identity in a fast paced world of the 21st century.
(flowing strings and acoustic guitar music) If you love to visit and explore historical museums you will not want to miss taking an hour or two to see the best tractor museum in Minnesota.
It's even called the Minnesota Machinery Museum.
The museum has a lot to offer, including a general store, vintage automobiles, tractors, railroad memorabilia, along with farm toys, country art and a nice gift shop.
Laurie Johnson is the director of the museum.
And she wants to show us her favorite pieces in the collection.
So this is the car.
- This is the car, it's a 1911 Maxwell Touring Car.
It was donated to us by the Bert Ennisfield family from Sacred Heart.
- [Doug] I love it, it is a beauty.
So Laurie, you have some other real interesting relics here in the museum.
- We do, we have this glider that was built in the early 1930s by Matt and Elvin Slededall from the Wood Lake area.
They were 18 and 21 when they were in Granite Falls, bought a aviation magazine and got the bug to do this.
(bluesy, easy going horns music) - [Doug] So Laurie, what are we gonna look at?
- [Laurie] We're gonna look at some of Dorothea's original paintings.
- [Doug] So who is Dorothea?
- [Laurie] Dorothea was a lady from Wharton, Minnesota who farmed with her husband.
And even after he passed away she continued to farm.
And also did painting on the side.
And loved doing farm scenes.
(flowing, old timey horns music) (upbeat swinging piano music) - [Doug] Before leaving, Laurie wants us to see a very interesting railroad model display in the museum.
It's called the Railroad Y.
In 1901, the Supreme Court of the United States ordered the installation of a transfer track between the Great Northern Railroad, now the Burlington Northern, and the Minneapolis and St. Louis Railroad, now the Chicago Northwestern.
Without this example, it would be hard to understand it.
- [Laurie] Right.
- But I love how it works here in the display.
A train going east west, can get on a north south line by using the Y.
The farmer could say, "I want my goods shipped "on this railroad, not this one."
- [Laurie] Right.
- Because of pricing.
(swinging muted horns music) After seeing the model in the museum, standing at the actual rail tracks makes sense.
I love finding out these little known facts about Minnesota history.
(ascending, amusing music) (air whooshes) In a few miles we soon arrive at another town with the word falls in its name, Granite Falls.
Granite Falls is the county seat of Yellow Medicine County, and is rich in history.
(stoic snare drum music) Before arriving in downtown Granite, let's stop at Minnesota's newest airplane museum.
(stoic marching drum music) Fagen Fighters WWII Museum is home to a pristine collection of fully operational active aircraft and vehicles from World War II.
(plane engine rumbles) (building stoic percussion and low horns music) (plane engine rumbles) (stoic percussion music) Leaving the museum, I have gained a new appreciation of the popular phrase, the greatest generation.
(loud percussion music) If you're like me, you like to stop and read the historic landmark signs along the road.
On the banks of the Minnesota River in Granite Falls, are two such signs that are worth a quick stop.
The first sign is one claiming to be on the site of the world's oldest rock.
Whether a rock of nearly four billion years is the world's oldest, or not, who am I to argue?
But if it is, I am glad to stop and actually touch a piece of geological history.
Not far from the historic rock marker stands another sign that tells a more recent story.
In the early 1870s a man by the name of Henry Hill built a flour mill and a dam along the Minnesota River.
Soon, a small town was platted, and before long Granite Falls was born.
To help the town grow, Henry also gave free lots to anyone who wanted to call this town home.
(playful piano music) Did you know that Granite Falls was in the national spotlight in 1919, because of a local Minnesota congressman, Andrew Volstead?
His name will always be connected to the National Prohibition Act, the banning of alcohol.
Andrew drafted the bill, and it was named the Volstead Act after its author.
Today, the house is a historic museum that is open during the season to help tell a most interesting American story.
(playful horns and piano music) Before leaving Granite Falls, let's take a walk downtown.
I just left the Volstead House.
I'm gonna spend a little time in downtown Granite Falls.
Of all the towns I have been to on my trip so far, this town might have the best Americana feel of all.
It's almost like the town was designed by Norman Rockwell.
Flags on the lamp posts, historic storefronts, it's perfect.
But let's be honest.
The best part of Granite Falls, might be the famous Carl's Bakery, right here on Main Street.
In 2018, Carl's won the Best Bakery in Minnesota Award.
I got to check it out.
(flowing horns music) I just left Carl's Bakery.
And I want to visit another site in Granite Falls, the historic suspension bridge.
It crosses the Minnesota River.
It's a bridge that was built back in the 1930s by the Roebling Company.
The Roebling Company was a bridge company out of New York that's credited for building the Brooklyn Bridge that we know today.
Today, the bridge here in Granite Falls, gives you a great view of the river, the town, we have an art project over here on the right.
On the left we have a park system.
One of the best views of the waterfall and dam is off to my left over here.
So it's a great bridge for the people in the community here to enjoy the river, and enjoy their town.
(water rushing) (upbeat bass and horns music) Before leaving Granite Falls, I want to stop at one more historic site, right here in downtown.
In 1919, Granite Falls opened up a popcorn stand.
And it's still operating today.
Every night in the summer, hundreds, if not thousands of visitors and locals come out to Main Street in Granite to enjoy some Jolly Time Popcorn.
And of course, drink a cup of that famous 1919 root beer.
Did I say Granite Falls is truly Americana?
(upbeat, swinging horns music) As we make our way north from Granite Falls, let's stop at a historic spot that most travelers would ever even know about, because there are no historic road markers to tell the story.
The historic Yellowstone Trail intersects Highway 23 just a mile or two outside of Granite Falls.
I'm standing out here on the actual Yellowstone Trail.
Imagine what this placed looked like.
In 1913, when Michael J. Dowling, one of the early founders of this trail took his family on a historic trip from Minneapolis to Yellowstone Park, in an open touring car.
Imagine that trip on this road.
Today, a grass roots organization called the Yellowstone Trail Alliance of Western Minnesota, is working on bringing this historical story to the public.
(ragtime swinging piano music) (low bass strings and piano music) In a small town in Chippewa County there is a restaurant that is known throughout the state, Budger's Dinner House sits on Main Street in Maynard, just off of Highway 23.
Budger's Dinner House has been in business since 1963.
"You would be hard pressed to find a better meal anywhere," one visitor is quoted as saying.
Another customer writes, "Budger's has a history "of good food and service.
"And I have been eating here for over 40 years."
Bill Beasley has kept the restaurant open since taking over from his father, who was known locally as Budger.
Bill grew up living upstairs from the restaurant, and today he and his wife are determined to do all they can do to keep the restaurant open and vibrant in the community.
- [Doug] Good morning, Bill.
- Good morning.
(chuckles) Welcome to Maynard.
(laughs) - [Doug] Thank you it's great to be here.
It's been a lot of years since I've been here.
But I'll never forget as a kid coming to your restaurant.
Bill, I love the collection that you brought out here today.
These old pictures of Maynard.
I take it that's your father.
- That's my dad, that's Budger himself.
(light acoustic guitar music) Back in the-- - Same kitchen that you have today.
- That same kind of kitchen.
A little different, we designed it a little bit different after years-- - I think you're wearing the same apron.
- Probably, I think so.
(both laugh) I don't wear the hat, though.
I never-- - You don't wear the hat?
- [Bill] No I couldn't get used to it.
- Oh Bill, you got to wear that hat.
- I know I couldn't get used to the hat.
- It's part of the deal here.
- [Bill] I couldn't get used to the hat.
- [Doug] And this is the-- - [Bill] This is after we remodeled, after we turned it into the Supper Club, this would be like '68 or so.
- And that's railing's gone isn't it?
- [Bill] Railing's gone, we kind of had to, once the new building went up next door, then we kind of thought we'd tie it in to, how their front looked.
It was starting to get deteriorated, and a lot of maintenance to keep it going.
- [Doug] Tell me about these two.
- [Bill] And this one here is looking down Main Street going north and south, I guess if you were coming into town.
- The old green elevator there.
- The old green elevator.
- And that's where your restaurant is today, right?
- Restaurant there, and there was a grocery store there, and I think this was the telephone office, and then there was a gas station.
There was an old hotel right on Main Street.
When we got to town it was still in '63, there was a couple of people that rented rooms there, but it was getting pretty shabby looking, and eventually that got tore down.
- [Doug] What's happened to Maynard, today?
- It's kind of everything I suppose, it's just kind of like everything.
Guys, the kids kind of all moved out, you know, kind of moved to the urban areas.
And like you say, less farmers.
(plaintive piano music) Everybody kind of went their own ways.
- [Doug] After spending time with Bill, and hearing the story of this local landmark, I am more than ever convinced of the importance of local businesses in small town America.
(car whooshing) (upbeat full acoustic guitar music) (engine rumbles) So on our trip so far, we have encountered a lot of motorcycles, heading both directions on the highway.
(engines rumbling) Many of the bikes are the popular Harley Davidson.
Harley Davidson is an iconic American motorcycle that was founded in 1903 ina small shed in Milwaukee, by William Harley, and his good friend Arthur Davidson.
(light strings and piano music) In the small town of Raymond, population around 700, is one of Minnesota's top Harley Davidson dealers.
It all began in 1972, when Joe Apol had a dream of selling motorcycles.
I had the opportunity to sit down with Joe, and hear his inspirational story.
- Well my dad had a gas station on this corner for 48 years, and I bought and sold motorcycles ever since I've probably been 14, 15 years old.
- [Doug] It all started when he was a young man in his 30s.
And one day, he writes a check for $5,000 with no money in the bank to buy a bunch of motorcycle parts.
Joe's dad didn't think that was such a good idea.
- So I went home, told my dad, and he just shook his finger at me, and he just blew up.
I mean he was mad.
He said, "I went through the Depression.
"You owe me, you owe Dr. Tyler, "you ain't got no money."
I said, "No, I know I don't have any money, "but you'll go sign the loan, I know you will."
"No I won't," he said.
- [Doug] (laughs) Oh no.
- And he pointed his finger at me like this, and said, "You're going to jail."
And back in that day you went to jail.
- [Doug] Luckily, Joe didn't go to jail.
And through hard work and dedication he quickly paid off the loan.
And as they say, the rest is history.
- My dad taught me never to lie, always tell the truth, and always be positive and never negative.
(truck engine roars) - [Doug] You've always been in this location?
- I've always been in this location.
So we've been on this corner for just about 100 years.
'Cause I bought it from my dad, and my dad had it for 48.
And we've been a Harley dealer for 40, since '72, it'll be 47 years.
But I am the oldest Harley Dealer in the state of Minnesota.
- [Doug] You're the grandfather of Harley for Minnesota.
- That's correct.
- [Doug] Today, Joe's dealership has become a destination along Highway 23.
(engines whirring) Tell me Joe, how has the highway, worked for you?
- Highway 23 is a great highway.
I did not know that Highway 23 was the second biggest highway in the state of Minnesota 'til you said it to me.
- [Doug] Mm-hm.
- And, during Sturgess, all the bikers from up north, and especially Canada come through here.
And we're probably the first stop besides St.
Cloud.
- [Biker] Yeah, I'm doing all right, just tired.
- [Doug] As I wrap up my visit with Joe, it is clear he feels fortunate to have lived his passion for motorcycles for over 50 years.
Joe, you don't work, look at this.
If you work around this, it's not work.
- There isn't a day that I come to work that I'm not happy.
Yeah, it's quite a story.
When I give speeches at various clubs, I always call my story the $5,000 whim.
'Cause when I was a young guy I thought, I want to be that, and I don't believe that you could build a multi-million dollar business with $5,000 invested.
But I am a living proof of that, 'cause that's what I did.
And that's where I am now, and I got a multi-million dollar business.
(light ethereal strings music) - [Doug] Leaving Raymond on northbound Highway 23, the landscape continues to be flat as a pancake, with the only interruption, that of a passing freight train.
(light acoustic guitar music) It won't be long until we arrive at our largest town so far on the trip, Willmar.
I've always like the Central Minnesota city with its lakes and bike trails in its history.
In fact, the county slogan states it well.
Where the lakes begin.
There are actually 360 lakes in Kandiyohi County.
This area has been a tourist destination for years.
As I stand at a major intersection where the old highway ran into town, it's somewhat hard to imagine when Willmar was a tourist attraction for highway travelers.
Today, most if not all the old tourist cabins are gone.
And if it wasn't for some old postcard images, their memories would be lost to history.
Besides the abundant lakes in rich tourist history, this area is known for its railroads.
Willmar has been a railroad hub for more than 120 years.
Older maps and photos of the Willmar area clearly show the importance of the railroad.
Today, Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railway handles freight coming through Kandiyohi County with a main line connecting Chicago to the Pacific coastal states.
The Willmar switching yard is a very busy place.
They have three lines, and accommodate more than 40 trains per day.
(light strings music) After seeing the busy rail yard, from the bridge on Highway 23, I stop in at the county historical museum to learn more about the city of Willmar and its rich history.
Out in front of the museum is a massive Great Northern steam engine, Number 2523.
It was moved to the site in 1963, and has become a tourist stop ever since.
Engine 2523, is one of just two locomotives of its kind that remain in the nation.
The other is preserved in Washington State.
Built in 1923, the engine was part of the Great Northern Railway fleet.
Looking through historic images at the museum, I am impressed with the immensity of the project.
But more impressed with the foresight and vision that saved this landmark.
(bright, rapid horns music) (syncopated digital music) Another story from Willmar that I didn't know much about, that the museum helped me learn, is the story of Jennie-O Turkey.
The company was founded by Earl B. Olson in 1940 and is now one of the largest turkey processing companies in the United States.
(light syncopated synthesizer music) Before leaving the museum, I am told to stop at a number of historical markers as I make my way northward.
One of these markers is near the highway and is perfect for a road trip.
It is a plaque and a statue dedicated to the young men of the Civilian Conservation Corps, who developed parks, roads and bridges during the 1930s.
The other historical site is a short drive off of Highway 23, but well worth it.
The Endreson Family cabin built in 1858, is a rare survivor of the US Dakota war period.
The cabin is interesting, but the story of Gurry Endreson is worth the short detour.
The cabin stands as a reminder to all of us of the heroic actions of this pioneer woman, who saved many lives during the US Dakota War.
(ominous low music) (happy acoustic guitar music) Back on the highway we soon arrive in the lake town of Spicer.
The town's history goes back to the 1880s.
But most of us know the town, because of beautiful Green Lake.
Just off of Highway 23 on the south side of the lake, sits the historic Stave Church.
(happy acoustic guitar music) The church was built in 1940 for $3,000.
And has retained many of its original features, including windows and pews.
It really is a beautiful replica of a Norwegian church from the 12th century.
I'm excited to stop at the church and hear the story from the former Camp Director Dave Eliason.
- [Dave] Glad to show you around this chapel.
It's a beautiful facility, heavily used.
And a lot of people know about this landmark, too.
So, we're happy to share its story.
- That's great, and I know it has a great story, and it goes back to the late '30s, early '40s?
- Yes, originally, it was built for Green Lake Bible Camp where it resides.
The camp had started a couple years previously.
And, there was no place for the campers to hold worship services.
They used to pitch a tent down on the campgrounds, and that's where they would do church.
- [Doug] The old tent revival.
Apparently they had a real one going on here.
- Yeah exactly.
(laughs) But it was always in the plans to have a chapel someday that they could use.
As it turned out, one of the pastors who was on the board of directors at the time, had a fellow in his congregation who happened to build churches.
His name was Peter Nasvik, he was a Norwegian.
And I believe he was first generation.
His parents had come over from Norway.
And he traveled back to see the homeland, as an adult, and was captivated by the stave churches that he saw there.
And he got so enamored with them, when he got back to the United States he made it known that he would love to build a stave church in America somewhere.
- Wow.
- Sometime.
- [Doug] Yeah.
- And so his pastor had heard this and said, "Hey Peter we've got this new Bible camp out "in the Spicer area.
"What about building your stave church out there?"
And he said, "Well, let's go check it out."
- [Doug] That is exactly what they did.
After looking at the Green Lake site, Peter Nasvik and the camp board members met in a cafe at the famous Leamington Hotel in Minneapolis.
From a design Peter drew on a hotel napkin, the chapel idea began to take form.
Don't you love those stories?
- Yeah.
- [Doug] On how these things get started, simple beginnings?
We're talking about in a cafe, in a hotel on a napkin.
- Yeah, I know it.
(laughs) - [Doug] Who paid for the meal?
- Yeah, good question.
- Is the question.
- I'm guessing the camp did, but.
(Doug laughs) - [Dough] You know what I like too, it's a historic story, great story.
But it's not just history, it's alive today.
- Very true.
In the summertime it's occupied every day.
- With kids?
- Either with kids, or weddings, - Sure that makes sense.
- [Dave] or, the local church services.
- Dave, before I get back on the road, heading up to 23.
How has this highway impacted the camp, the church here, the community?
- All of those little towns on Highway 23, almost all of them had a Norwegian Lutheran Church.
And they were the ones who built the camp.
Many of the people who wind up here at camp travel Highway 23 to get here.
- Well, I'm delighted to be here with you, thank you for showing me this beautiful treasure that you have here at the camp, right off my Highway 23.
And it truly is a landmark.
- [Dave] Thank you Doug.
- [Doug] Thank you.
- [Dave] Please to have you with us today.
- [Doug] Thank you.
(ethereal music) (flowing low horns music) Nearing the end of our road trip, I find a historical sign along the highway near the sleepy town of Howick.
It is called Battle of the Broom.
According to the sign, a settlers wife drove some Dakota away from her house with her broom.
Since they wanted no trouble with the settlers.
(flowing piano music) As we come to the end of our old fashioned road trip, I want to say it's been fun having you ride along.
From the historic Tri-State Marker, north to the lakes of Kandiyohi County, we have seen some of the best of Minnesota.
I hope you have enjoyed it as much as I have.
Thank you for letting me be your driver and your host.
And remember Walk Whitman's quote, "I take to the open road, healthy, free, "the world before me."
(slow, contemplative piano music) (upbeat jazzy big band horns and piano music)
Preview: 5/28/2020 | 30s | Follow Minnesota photographer and storyteller Doug Ohman along Highway 23 (30s)
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