
L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Episode 15 | 45m 8sVideo has Closed Captions
James is in the adopted home of his food hero Keith Floyd.
James’s journey has brought him to the adopted home of his food hero, Keith Floyd – the pretty riverside town of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, where Floyd once had a restaurant. Buying produce from its floating market and a Floyd-style hat, James sets up his mobile kitchen on a bridge overlooking the river, and cooks peaches pain perdu in the sunshine.
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L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Episode 15 | 45m 8sVideo has Closed Captions
James’s journey has brought him to the adopted home of his food hero, Keith Floyd – the pretty riverside town of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, where Floyd once had a restaurant. Buying produce from its floating market and a Floyd-style hat, James sets up his mobile kitchen on a bridge overlooking the river, and cooks peaches pain perdu in the sunshine.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorshipBienvenue en France.
That's welcome to France to you and me.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'm traveling throughout this beautiful country to explore the very best in French cuisine.
Bon appetit.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): It's a personal journey.
It's just about the best place I've ever been to.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): It's where I learned to cook.
Now, this is spectacular.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And it was the home and inspiration for one of my biggest food heroes, Keith Floyd.
And what's more, I've bought his motor.
This was Keith Floyd's very own car for 16 years.
And it's now mine.
Gives me goosebumps.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): So join me as I rediscover the food destination that has it all.
Look at that.
[upbeat music] [theme music] ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Today, my French adventure has lured me to a little town hidden just beyond the beautiful Mont Ventoux, a place that became home and inspiration to my food hero, Keith Floyd.
This is L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, famous for its hustle and bustle, its small streets packed full of people and great shops.
And you can see the reason why Floyd fell in love with this place.
[upbeat music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue sits between the peaks of Mont Ventoux and the Provencal Southern Coast, just 50 miles from Marseille.
♪ ♪ The town straddles the Sorgue River, providing the resources for fishing and for driving the mills that produce commodities like oil and wheat.
♪ ♪ Back in the '70s, Floyd opened a restaurant in this very town.
The market would have been his idea of a goldmine.
And if it's good enough for Floyd, it's good enough for me.
[mellow music] But I reckon the food isn't the only reason Floyd loved this place.
They stock his trademark hat.
♪ ♪ Do you have it in black?
♪ ♪ Look at that.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Ooh, I think I'm getting told off.
Right?
WOMAN: No, no.
[french] - Don't do that.
Don't pinch it.
On your head.
♪ ♪ On your head.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Thanks.
I've always wondered where you put your hat.
Now, to see what's really special about this market.
You've got to get down to the river.
JAMES MARTIN: The River Sorgue has been at the heart of the town for centuries.
Its banks are littered with different mills that powered the industry over the years.
But now it's famous for another thing.
And that's food and its floating market.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue's floating market takes place just once a year on the first Sunday of August.
[mellow music] ♪ ♪ The little flat-bottomed boats glide to and fro, selling local produce, fruit, flowers and all kinds of veg.
Look, there's a leak.
Seriously, though, that's a lovely squash.
I wouldn't want to lose that overboard.
♪ ♪ Of course, you don't have to risk getting your toes wet.
There's plenty of fresh produce on dry land, too.
You've got your local classics like cheese, olives, and melons.
And you've got a huge array of cured meats, enough to keep any market goer happy.
But for my first dish, I've got my eye on these little beauties.
And I've managed to bag an amazing place right next to the market to cook.
You see?
How cool is this place?
I've got to say, I've been to a lot of places in France.
And this is definitely right up there with my top three.
It's amazing spot, full of inspiration all over the place.
And I'm inspired to do this dish.
It's really simple, really.
It's a classic pain perdue, which is kind of like eggy bread.
But why do eggy bread when I've got proper brioche.
And this is perfect for it.
Now, what I'm going to do with this is just basically cut it up into chunks.
That's the key to this.
So this is brioche, which is kind of an enriched yeast dough.
And it sounds more complicated than it is, really.
So think of it as a bread dough with the addition of sugar and butter.
And instead of using water to make bread, they use milk.
And that's why you end up with this brioche, classic brioche, wonderful rich texture, delicious flavor.
And it's made out of butter, not margarine.
Proper stuff.
And then what we're going to do is basically just make eggy bread.
Really simple.
So just crack two eggs in here.
A little bit of sugar, just a touch, and then some milk.
You can use cream if you want, a little bit of milk.
Measure everything.
Mix this together.
[clatter] Just to follow on the theme with the brioche, we use some butter, a few knobs of butter.
And then what we do at the same time in here, dip the brioche in the egg, get that frying in.
[sizzling] There's really something magical about this place.
I've just been here for the morning.
But you can't help but fall in love with it.
It's just fantastic-- the people, the restaurants.
You can get everything-- Panama hats, bags, curtains.
What more do you want?
It's proper.
What are you doing, really, is just coloring this all the way around.
Once you've colored it, take that out.
You see, you've got this wonderful color.
These are the nice, fresh, organic eggs.
Lift that out.
Now you can eat that just on its own, even with a little bit of ricotta or a bit of honey, something like that.
But I couldn't resist.
Because all over Provence, I found these, these amazing peaches.
And I'm going to combine this with something that you don't normally combine peaches with, and that's basil.
But I'm very quickly just going to do a simple jam.
It's almost an instant jam really, really easy.
What you need to do now is just take the stones out of the peaches.
They're just delicious.
But I'm going to create a really simple quick jam or confiture, they call it over here, very, very easy to do.
It's just sugar, fruit, and a little bit of liquid, and a hot pan.
But to speed things up a bit because we want to cook it quite quickly.
The key to this, really, is taking a bit of sugar and just caramelizing the sugar in the bottom of the pan.
Now, normally when you make jam, you would whack in all the fruit, all the liquor and everything else and just boil it.
So check this out.
Look.
Bonjour.
Bonjour.
[speaking french] How cool is that?
I don't need butternut squash.
So he's gone off again.
Look.
Next, you've got this caramel in the pan.
That's the key to this.
It's going to speed up the cooking time.
Get in there, Rob.
Look.
The sugar starts to liquidize and caramelize in there.
Now, at that point, we can throw in the peaches.
[sizzling] And one thing you've got to do with this is leave it alone.
Don't mess around with the pan too much.
Just let the peaches just sit there.
Now, you can take this process and use whatever fruit you want-- blackberries, raspberries.
The same process applies.
But it's caramelizing the sugar, which speeds up the cooking time.
You can see there you've got the caramel.
Look at that.
Rob, get in there.
Look.
The caramel starts to ooze around the edge.
That's exactly what we want.
Shake the pan a little bit.
That's it.
Now, I'm going to flavor this with something quite unusual.
And that's basil.
When you put basil and soft fruit together, like raspberries, like peaches, particularly strawberries as well, when you taste it together, it tastes like pistachio nuts.
It's amazing, the combination.
But we throw in a little bit of fresh basil.
Now, at this point, if I was at home, I would use a bit of water.
I ain't going down there.
So I've got a bit of vino.
Nice glug of white wine.
[sizzling] And what we do now is just pop the lid on and just allow that to stew for about 10 minutes.
In the meantime, Rob and his fellow colleagues will take you on a tour of this amazing town See you in a bit.
Cheers.
[mellow music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): You can see why they call L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue the Venice of Provence.
And take a look at that.
He's actually selling newspapers from a boat.
It's a first for me.
What a great town.
But it's the Floyd connection that gives this place the edge.
You see, I told you it was a nice place.
Look, these are ready.
How good do they look?
And all we do just to simply serve this.
You've got some of your brioche.
Here, Rob, look at this.
This is how it goes.
Look, get in here.
Look.
It gets this lovely, sticky-- it's only taken about 10 minutes, 5, 10 minutes or so.
It stewed down nicely.
This combination of basil and peaches.
I've been going on about it for years, it makes the most amazing dessert.
Next time you do a peach Melba, or you get your Arctic roll, peaches and cream, a little bit of basil on the top makes all the difference.
Now, at home, if it wasn't 35 degrees, I would serve this with ice cream.
But the directors told me I need to think of people who are on a diet, people who like healthy food.
This is for them, yogurt, full fat, with brioche.
[clicks] [mellow music] ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Sauteed peaches with basil, pan-fried brioche with yogurt or ice cream.
[upbeat music] My culinary journey through France has brought me to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a town where the legendary foodie Keith Floyd once set up shop.
And it's no surprise magnificent markets like this are a magnet for cooks.
But so often, we don't think about where these excellent ingredients come from.
And in France, sometimes it's just up the road or just up the mountain.
Around 30 miles northwest of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue are the slopes of Mont Ventoux, a land too poor for pasture but absolutely ideal for goats.
[light music] ♪ ♪ This is La Grange Neuve, where ex-pat Leanne Vermare and her French husband Guillaume and their 60 goats produce organic cheese and yogurt of the finest quality, which they sell to nearby markets and restaurants.
But it's not always been the life of a goat herder for Leanne.
I was originally in the tourist industry, completely different.
But no, I really enjoyed the-- the change in direction.
My husband was already in agriculture.
So for him, it was quite natural.
He just moved from sheep to goats and would quite like to move back to sheep sometimes because they're much easier.
When you've got animals is that it's seven days a week.
So it's difficult to get away.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): You're not wrong, Leanne.
It's an idyllic setting.
But that far up the mountain, I bet it gets a bit parky.
We're at 750 meters here.
So in the winter, it's quite cold, especially in the morning when we get up to milk at 5 or 6 o'clock or even 4:00 when it's a market day.
It can be, like, minus 5 or minus 7.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Yeah, cheese making is no picnic.
This is just one of the daily chores, turning the cheese.
It's essential for helping the whey to escape through the tiny holes in these containers, aiding the maturation of the cheese and maintaining a good shape.
And you have to do it a lot.
Sometimes I'm turning almost 1,500 cheeses every-- every evening.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Yeah.
And if that wasn't enough, there's also the odd billy goat to keep your eye on.
And they can be a bit gruff.
Isn't that right, Guillaume?
He has a good character, a strong character.
But you have to take care each time you are with him because he could-- could fight you with his horn.
And it's very painful.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I believe you.
Now, if it weren't for the likes of these guys slogging their way up the mountains, we wouldn't be able to enjoy these incredible cheeses.
Just think about that next time you pop a slice of goat cheese on your cracker.
And goats are also prized for their meat.
But I feel a bit mean cooking one after that.
So I've got a great recipe you can try with lamb, or goat if you like.
Now, this is a fantastic dish of slow-braised shoulder of lamb with Parisienne potatoes.
I'm going to use a shoulder of lamb for this.
You can use shoulder of goat.
It works brilliantly with shoulder of pork.
Either one, slow roast shoulder is the cut of meat that you need.
But first of all, I'm going to give you a biology lesson.
So we're going to start off-- [chalk clacking] With a sheep.
If you want to use a pig, you can use a pig.
If you want to use a goat, you can have a goat.
Now, the parts of the animal that does the most amount of work are the best tasting.
So you can split those into two places, the back end and the front end.
That does the most amount of work.
Then you have the shoulder of lamb, which requires slow cooking, the piece that I'm going to use.
Then at the back here, you have the leg and the rump, which is here.
Now, when you get to this area here, which we call the prime cuts, you can split this into two again.
Underneath here, you have the belly, fantastic for baking, slow cooking, wonderful crispy crackling, that kind of stuff.
But then on the top, you have the pure prime cuts.
This is where you'll find your sirloin of beef, your loin of lamb, your fillets, all that kind of stuff.
And particularly on lamb, if you cut it through, and not in half, you end up with your bouncy chops, a long way away from France.
So there you go.
Now you know.
But I'm going to use shoulder of lamb for this one.
So we start off with some onions because this is going to be slow cooked in the oven.
A couple of onions will be great for this, though.
Large white onions contain tons of flavor in there as well.
The garlic, a whole bulb of garlic, the entire lot, straight into your tray.
Throw the onions and the garlic all in.
Because this is going to cook for a good three, four hours, it'll all break down anyway.
Now, a little bit of fresh thyme, you can sprinkle that over the top.
And then we've got our lamb here, our shoulder of lamb.
This is fantastic.
It's a beautiful cut of meat.
Got the blade running through the center.
Don't get the butcher to get rid of that blade.
Keep it in there because it keeps the meat nice and moist as well.
So you just take the entire lot.
There's no really need to prep it.
That's it.
Salt and pepper over the top.
We've got a decent hit of red wine over there, just a little bit.
And then grab some tin foil.
You really don't need to take it out and keep basting it.
All you've got to do is just tin foil it like this and stick it in the oven.
Now, a lot of people will have slow cookers nowadays, generally in the back of the cupboard, next to the spiralizer covered in dust.
Stick this in the oven for three hours.
But I'm not going to put it in there.
I'm going to do it outside.
[mellow music] ♪ ♪ Now, for these pommes Parisienne, and it's a potato dish that I haven't done since I was at college.
But it all starts with the Parisienne bit.
And that is using one of these, a Parisienne scoop, or people call it north of Watford, a melon baller.
But there's nothing wrong with that.
You take the Parisienne scoop and scoop them out.
♪ ♪ Right.
Now, get a pan.
What we have to do to these is saute them.
Now, the definition of shallow frying is "half immersed in butter," which is technically what we're going to do.
♪ ♪ [sizzling] ♪ ♪ Now, what we end up with is the potatoes start to color at this point.
So we need to drain off the excess butter like that.
And then put these back in the pan and crank up the heat.
So crank it high.
Now, this is the important bit.
You can either use chicken stock or beef stock, but it's got to be liquid form.
It's no good using the stock cubes.
And we almost half cover them and now rapidly cook them.
The beef stock reduces down.
And it gets thicker and thicker and thicker and creates this wonderful glaze to go with our potatoes.
So while that's happening, I'll go get the lamb.
♪ ♪ Now, this is worth waiting for.
[laughs] Lovely.
And you see, you've got these lovely juices in there as well.
It's just wonderful, is this.
So often, people just go off a leg of lamb.
But a shoulder of lamb, if you've got the time, it's so much nicer, so much more flavor as well.
So as these potatoes start to reduce down, all we need to do now is just grab a little bit of parsley just to finish this off.
Now, what you could do as well is, you as you could finish it off with mushrooms or whatever you want.
But I've got a little bit of this left over.
This is black truffle, the famous black truffle, black gold.
Can't waste any of this.
So I'm just going to put this in right at the last minute with the parsley.
And you can tell when this is ready when it starts to glaze.
It's like a potato version of toffee apple.
Some parsley and a little bit of truffle, why not, just to finish this off.
Finally, just glaze this.
And they all go lovely and sticky.
Pinch of salt over the top, a bit of black pepper.
And then-- ♪ ♪ One left.
♪ ♪ It's not going to be 28 years before I do it again.
[upbeat music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): My gastronomic roam through this stunning slice of Provence has shown me incredible markets in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, traditional farming, alive and well on Mont Ventoux.
And now, how about one of Provence's hidden gems?
Now, if there's one thing in life I've learned is never judge a book by its cover.
Because right by this busy main road-- [vehicle zooms] Is this place, famous for serving black truffles and white truffles.
And it just happens to have one of the greatest wine lists in France.
Madness.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And here's the man responsible, Chef Guy Jullien, with some of his truffles.
For over 40 years, his restaurant, La Beaugraviere, has been a temple to the remarkable Perigord truffle and the finest of French wines.
And I've been told Guy can often be found down in his cellar seller, contemplating his favorite tipple.
The oldest bottle of my cellar.
Guy, how are you?
- How are you and you?
- How are you?
Look at this.
Incredible.
Incredible.
Is that what I think it is?
Yeah.
Before the French Revolution.
- That's champagne?
- No.
Ratafia de champagne.
Champagne at this time didn't exist.
Wasn't even invented.
So basically, it's got no bubbles in it at all.
This one-- this one, incredibly, 1743.
Now, I've been to a few cellars in my time.
And this place is-- there's 35,000 bottles in here.
It's incredible - Yes.
JAMES MARTIN: But, Guy, look, you've got some in here for 1929.
GUY JULLIEN: This bottle, it's an old bottle.
JAMES MARTIN: Yeah.
But it's drinkable.
You can drink this bottle now.
And it's a perfect wine, really.
1929.
'29.
No problem.
You can have a car like that, and it's no problem No problem.
It's very good.
This, I don't know.
This, you don't know, this-- [laughs] I mean, just look at this.
If a bottle could tell some stories, I mean, just look at this.
1743, before champagne was even invented, just look at it.
[french] is the date of creation of the house [french].
And it's amazing.
They call this the angel's share.
This is the bit that disappears out of the cork.
This is-- Basically, this would have been full.
And the angel's share is basically that bit as it evaporates through the cork and into the air.
What an amazing story.
You better hold this.
It's too expensive.
What is this?
It's a special year.
Right.
It's the greatest wine of Spain.
Vega Cecilia, '72.
'72.
Wine.
Because an important bottle for me because it's the wedding with my wife, Tina.
JAMES MARTIN: Now, there's another good thing in 1972.
I was born.
Ah, you was born in-- All the good things come from 1972.
Congratulations.
I didn't have a choice in it, did I?
Really, wasn't my choice.
Was that really-- [laughter] GUY JULLIEN: Well, you'll come in Mondragon.
Yeah.
- And we'll drink this bottle.
- Absolutely.
I'm up for that.
Wine is meant to be drunk.
Absolument.
Not for sitting on the shelf.
Absolument.
I like this man.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Now, whilst Guy cooks one or two of his famous truffle dishes, I'm going to browse the wine list.
Did I say list?
Sorry, I meant book.
Just let me-- just let me cut through some of the prices in here.
2005 bottle of Montrachet, which is my favorite wine, which I absolutely adore, 3,900 euros.
You can't help but be amazed at this w-- I mean, these wines, some of these are incredible.
And the fact that it's all handwritten, it just means that this guy shares an equal love of food and truffles.
Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa.
Now, this is-- now, we're talking right.
I'll tell you what I'm going to have.
I'm going to have-- I'm going to have-- what [laughs] I'm going to have is, I'm going to have the set truffle menu at 135 euros.
But then what I'm going to have is a bottle of 2005 Romanée Conti, which is one of the greatest wines, I think, around.
Now, there is-- the decimal point is in the right place for this one.
Are you ready for this?
9,000 euros a bottle.
9,000 euros a bottle.
Keith Floyd's Citroen was half that price.
My agent eats here.
And she recommended this place.
Clearly, we need to renegotiate.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): But is the food as eye-opening as the wine list?
[upbeat music] Guy is cooking me a terrine de canard with truffle followed by poulet de bresse with, yes, you guessed it, truffle.
Nicely done, Guy.
But does it tastes as good as it looks?
GUY JULLIEN: Bonjour, Monsieur.
JAMES MARTIN: Bonjour.
GUY JULLIEN: Voila.
La terrine de canard truffe.
JAMES MARTIN: C'est bon.
GUY JULLIEN: C'est bon.
Guy, have a seat.
Thank you.
You've been working hard.
And have a glass.
So terrine de canard.
Terrine de canard.
That's duck terrine.
With truffle.
[crunching] Um.
And only two chefs, you and one other.
Two.
That's it.
Only.
It's a phenomenal amount of work, this.
But two people just-- makes it's on bread and everything else.
But we have a lot of workers also.
Tremendous amount of work.
This-- this terrine is fantastic.
So why-- why truffle?
80% of French truffle are produced here.
La poulet de bresse?
- No.
- No?
C'est de la bresse, c'est la poulet.
Poulet.
Just let me just say that before he explains, poulet de bresse is the greatest chicken in the world.
End of.
But I've been told differently.
- No, no, no.
Poularde.
Poularde de bresse is only female.
And the [french], de la poulet is different.
What he's saying is that the poulet de bresse that I'm so familiar with can be male and female.
Yes.
But the poularde, as soon as it starts to produce eggs, GUY JULLIEN: Only.
JAMES MARTIN: Then it's ready to eat.
GUY JULLIEN: Yes.
[speaking french] Do you understand?
- No.
What does that mean?
What does that mean?
Translate.
Translate it.
I feel it's-- I feel it's something a bit rude.
Go on then.
What is it?
All in the world, the female are best than the-- the men.
Really.
So he's saying that, basically, all animals, female are better.
Yeah.
I can't disagree with you.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Well, it's certainly food for thought.
But I have to admit, I didn't find out the gender of the fish I used for my next dish.
But they're delicious nonetheless.
Now, what a fabulous place L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is.
There's so many different types of ingredients to choose from.
And so many dishes that I could create.
But I'm going to create an amazing classic French dish, soupe de poisson.
But it, first of all, contains a little bit of leek.
And for that, we just need to chop up the leek.
Now, there's no onion in here.
It uses the leek, a little bit of fennel.
You can chop that in as well.
Fennel is the classic sort of thing you often get in a lot of fish soups in France.
So garlic as well, plenty of garlic in there.
Although the garlic is going to be used as a garnish as well with the aioli, we still put garlic in the soup.
So what you need is a preheated pan and a good glug of olive oil to get that starting.
[sizzling] Then into here now we can put our selection of fish.
Now, often in France, this is actually sold as a dish.
You go to the fish counter and ask for a kilo of soupe de poisson, it can be a variety of different fish, generally smaller fish.
But usually, it's got gurnard in.
And I've got some bream.
I've got a little bit of horse mackerel.
This is quite a great little fish as well.
The whole lot just goes in the pan.
So you just take the fish and throw it in.
[sizzling] And then we top this up with some water.
I've been wanting to use this pot, to be honest with you, because I bought this in the market.
Now, what we need to do now is bring this to the boil and gently simmer this for about 15 to 20 minutes.
While that's happening, we can make our aioli, this classic mayonnaise that's flavored with garlic and saffron.
So first of all, what you need to do is just soften the garlic slightly.
And for that, you grab a bit of white wine.
We can take our garlic.
Now, this garlic has been blanched.
And what you do is just blanch it in boiling water.
It just gets rid of a lot of the excess flavor from it, i.e.
the sharpness of the garlic so it's not too strong.
You don't end up with garlic breath.
Put it that way.
Grab some of this amazing saffron.
Put a little bit of saffron in there.
And then I'm going to infuse that with the wine, with the garlic.
And I'm going to use this to flavor our mayonnaise.
We've got our egg yolks.
We've got some mustard.
I've got some oil.
You can use olive oil for this.
But I'm just going to use rapeseed oil.
It's a milder flavor of oil.
Now, it's going to lend itself far better to go with everything else that's in here, particularly the garlic.
We don't want anything too strong.
[tapping] So a bit of mustard, egg yolks, [whirring] And then pour on some of this.
[mellow music] ♪ ♪ So there you have your mayonnaise.
Now, to turn this into aioli, you utilize this garlic and the saffron.
You see, it's almost reduced down to nothing.
[clattering] All that into your blender and blitz it.
[whirring] ♪ ♪ Now also, so often, you might need to add a touch of lemon juice, some black pepper, and some salt.
Now, this is a classic accompaniment with a French fish soup.
[whirring] Beautiful.
Smells amazing.
Look at the color from that.
Now, this rapeseed oil will help the color nicely and turn it even more yellow.
This is delicious.
Saffron, just to color our soup nicely, a little bit more.
Now, what we need to do now is leave this gently simmering away for about 20 minutes.
[mellow music] Right.
Just to finish off the soup, a little bit of oil on the top.
And then we'll pass the soup through the mouli.
You crush all the bones.
So you keep passing it through a sieve.
Look, you can see all the flavor coming out into the bottom.
Right.
Now, what we end up with is this delicious soup.
♪ ♪ Mm-mm-mm.
This is a classic garnish that goes with it.
You've got this aioli on croutons.
And you just basically pop these in and amongst the soup like that.
Little drizzle of oil.
And then finally, what I like is a Gruyere cheese over the top.
So there you have it, a classic French soupe de poisson with croutons, aioli, and Gruyere cheese.
That is delicious.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): My adventure in French gastronomy has taken me to some unforgettable places.
But coming to the town where Floyd chose to open one of his restaurants, well, that makes it extra special for me.
But he and I have another shared passion, antiques.
Now, in amongst the busy cafes and bars in this area is a vast selection of antique shops.
And you see, this moment in time I'm going to blame my mother for my love of hoarding.
I'm a magpie.
I just crave stuff.
I don't know what is it about us Brits.
And then you sell it at a car boot sale.
But one of which, one of the most famous things I've ever bought, was two lamps.
And Sharon Stone and I were fighting it out, not literally, but we were arguing about the price in a particular Paris market.
I managed to get the lamps before she did.
But I love this place.
It's just packed full of stuff, including amazing dogs.
Just check him out.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): But it's a bit hard getting a dog through customs.
So I'll stick to antiques, souvenirs.
And this is the town to be in.
It has the greatest concentration of antique shops in the whole of France.
[light music] ♪ ♪ I told you there were some amazing dogs round here.
♪ ♪ Ah.
Now you're talking.
A nice glass table would look-- whoa!
All right, James, time to turn on the old Yorkshire charm.
Watch this.
It's tres chic.
Tres chic, really.
Really, very, very chic.
So what's your best price?
And I'm on one knee.
And I've got my lucky hat on.
It's-- my best is 1,200.
And really, it's for you.
That's very good.
And it's a very good price.
I hope you appreciate.
It's beautiful.
Can I take the dog as well?
No.
My dog is not for sale.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Ah, never mind.
Anyway, I've got my final dish to cook.
But there's just enough time for a very important detour first.
And I'll be back for you later.
You see, back in the 1970s, a little way down these winding streets and through this rather unassuming old archway was Keith Floyd's very own restaurant, just beyond that red door.
So I just had to pay my respects to my favorite food hero before I head back to the river and get cooking.
JAMES MARTIN: Now, this is the ultimate one-pot dish, really.
And I say the ultimate because I'm going to use scallops at its heart.
These fellas over here, look at these, I couldn't resist, beautiful, hand-dived scallops.
Aren't they fantastic?
And I'm going to serve those with just some beans and a little bit of chorizo.
I found this in the market, which is kind of just the other side of that building there.
There's two different types, one of which is spicy.
One's not spicy.
But this is the real hot one.
This is chili.
And the guy on there said this is really, really hot.
So I don't need to add any chili to this.
But at home, if you wanted to chop a bit of chili to this, it would work great.
Few tomatoes, a bit of garlic and a bit of shallot.
But what you do, first of all, is basically just have everything ready, really, and prepared because it is actually quite quick and simple, this.
But just a touch of garlic, you want about a couple of cloves for this, not too much.
You don't want to overpower the flavor of the scallops, really.
But basically, just a little bit of garlic.
Don't be too fussy with it.
[chopping] Touch of shallot.
I like to use shallot where possible.
When everything's to do with quick cooking, use a little bit of shallot rather than white onion because it's much more milder.
But you just chop that ready.
[chopping] A little bit of shallot and then, really, get a hot pan on.
And talk about the scallops, and get these on to cook.
So we just want to touch the butter in the pan, just a little bit of butter.
You can use oil if you want as well.
And then simply to prepare the scallops, now, a lot of this work has been done for you.
Now, I like the roe.
Some people take it off.
Personally, I like to leave it in.
But it's got a little muscle on it here.
Now, this bit really needs to be removed.
You just literally lift it and almost pinch it with your fingers because you don't want to break the scallops.
So just carefully remove that.
Pinch it on the other side so you keep the scallops nice and whole, but you remove the little muscle off it.
[light music] ♪ ♪ Now, once the scallop is in your pan of course, we're going to get letters on programs.
I've been on this.
20 years.
I've been doing it now.
[swishing] I'm washing my hands.
♪ ♪ There's soap down there as well.
♪ ♪ Happy now?
Now, the scallops are just going to cook away nicely.
We don't want to color these too much.
It's basically just one-pot cooking.
So don't be too fancy with it.
So at the same time, we can prepare a nice, little chorizo.
Now, this is the hot and spicy one.
There's chili in this one.
[distant singing] Look.
This is the spicy one.
The word "picante" is what you need to look for when you're looking at chorizo.
But that often refers to the paprika, the spice in there.
You get lots of oil from this.
However, this one's got chili in, so it's a bit fiery.
But all I'm going to do is just basically throw the chorizo in.
Now, chorizo and fish is just a classic combination, particularly white fish, like cod, and seafood like scallops.
It's just wonderful.
Now, you cook this treated down with the shallots, with the garlic for literally about two or three minutes.
And then all we need to do now is grab some tomatoes.
Now, I couldn't resist.
This market is full of them-- this and shorts and tea towels, tablecloths, and stuff, just stuff.
That's why the Brits love it.
Why do we have an obsession with just stuff?
Talking of tea towels, [blows] Nope.
That's-- [chuckles] I might need a new one.
So chop the tomatoes and throw these in.
Now, the key to this, I think, are these fellows over here, haricot blanc, white beans.
Just a good sprinkling of white beans in there.
Now, I was going to put a knob of butter in.
But because it's 32 degrees out here, we'll put 75 mils of melted butter and a little glug of white wine.
Didn't want too much, just a little glug.
Bit of black pepper, [grinding] Touch of salt.
and then some herbs.
Before we get even more letters, this is basil in here.
Look.
Nowhere to put it.
We just sprinkle that over the top.
Yeah, get in there.
Rob, look.
And then we just cook that with a lid on for about five minutes.
Gives me enough time to buy another tea towel.
[mellow music] ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And one quick shopping trip later.
JAMES MARTIN: See, now we're talking.
Anything in just one pot like this is perfect.
Now I'm going to do is just finish this with a bit more basil just roughly chopped, a little squeeze of lemon juice right at the end.
Have a quick taste.
A bit more black pepper, just a tad more salt, and a squeeze of lemon.
And then just serve it.
It's one of those dishes that doesn't need anything else, just simple, full of flavor, doesn't need anything else.
Well, I don't think it needs anything else.
However, our team here criticize me quite a lot, saying I need to decorate it up a bit.
Happy?
[mellow music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): There you go, beautiful, hand-dived scallops, spicy chorizo, white haricot beans with a generous glug of white wine and a hint of flambé tea towel.
Tasty stuff.
Well, these guys seem to think so.
JAMES MARTIN: Now, you've been sat here like a group of wasps hanging around.
I thought I'd give you some-- give you some food.
♪ ♪ What do you think?
It's delicious, really delicious.
- Happy with that?
- Delicious.
Good that there isn't a pattern on the plate, isn't it?t You just scrape that off.
Do they feed you at home or what?
Hey, it's all right.
I'll wash up as well.
Typical English.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): It's with a heavy heart that I have to bid au revoir to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
It's difficult to see what's not to like about this place.
It's just perfect.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): No wonder Floyd loved it here.
The market stalls are like something from another time.
And fine wines are treasured like gold.
There's 35,000 bottles in here.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And for an antique fiend like me, it's like being a kid in a sweet shop.
So what's your best price?
And I'm on one knee, and I've got my lucky hat on.
And, Rob, if we're coming back, we're bringing a bigger truck because these antique shops are amazing.
[theme music] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Fried brioche with yogurt or ice cream.
[theme music] Coming up on my gastronomic rummage around L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, we get an insight into the life of a Provencal goat farmer.
♪ ♪ And I give a biology lesson.
So we're going to start off with a sheep.
[theme music] [mellow music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): My culinary journey through France has brought me to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a town where the legendary foodie Keith Floyd once set up shop.
[upbeat music] It's not going to be 28 years before I do it again.
♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Coming up on my French foodie escapade in and around L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, I find a dream wine list that's a little on the pricey side.
Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa.
9,000 euros a bottle.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And I cook up my own version of a French classic in my home kitchen.
[theme music] [theme music] [mellow music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): My gastronomic roam through this stunning slice of Provence has shown me incredible-- JAMES MARTIN: That is delicious.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Still to come on my French adventure in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, I put my bartering skills to the test.
Can I take the dog as well?
No, my dog is not for sale.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And I cook my final dish and the tea towel.
Might need a new one.
[theme music] [theme music] [mellow music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): My adventure in French gastronomy has taken me to some unforgettable places.


- Food
Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television
Transform home cooking with the editors of Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine.








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