

Lovund in Northern Norway: Hay Smoked Salmon
Season 8 Episode 805 | 26m 52sVideo has Closed Captions
On the island of Lovund, traditional fishing culture coexists with modern aquaculture.
Niklas visits the island of Lovund in Northern Norway, a community that has always relied on fishing and where this traditional way of life coexists with modern aquaculture. Niklas meets up with some locals and goes diving for scallops before he makes one of his favorite salmon dishes touched by smoke, Viking style.
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New Scandinavian Cooking is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Lovund in Northern Norway: Hay Smoked Salmon
Season 8 Episode 805 | 26m 52sVideo has Closed Captions
Niklas visits the island of Lovund in Northern Norway, a community that has always relied on fishing and where this traditional way of life coexists with modern aquaculture. Niklas meets up with some locals and goes diving for scallops before he makes one of his favorite salmon dishes touched by smoke, Viking style.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship>> Funding for this series has been provided in part by the following... >> Up Norway, curates Norwegian travel experiences in the footsteps of "New Scandinavian Cooking."
>> ♪ No, take me home ♪ Take me home where I belong >> Vgan, the full taste of chocolate.
>> Grieg Suites.
Chocolate with apples from Norway.
♪♪ Havila Voyages.
Pure Northern.
♪♪ >> Ekstedt: Today I'm on this amazing trip up in northern Norway.
These are the islands that form the most northern archipelagos of Scandinavia.
I'll also be visiting Lovund, this small little island out on the outskirts here.
And then it's off to this little town called Bodo.
This is "New Scandinavian Cooking," and I am Niklas Ekstedt.
♪♪ ♪♪ Lovund Island, where the archipelago ends.
Past it is only open water until North America.
The island got its name from the small forest on it.
The village of Lovund is surprisingly modern.
About 430 people live here, and almost all work in the salmon business.
Hello!
>> Hey.
>> Ekstedt: Hey.
Niklas.
>> Maria.
Welcome.
>> Ekstedt: Thank you.
I brought the beautiful weather with me.
>> [ Laughs ] You sure did.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
It's gonna be a windy ride, huh?
>> Yeah, it's storm and rain.
>> Ekstedt: Storm and rain.
>> But it's just how we're used to here.
>> Ekstedt: Okay, good.
We were supposed to visit a salmon farm in open water, but when the waves reached 20 feet and the wind increased to over 55 miles per hour, we really felt it in this small boat.
The weather decides up here, doesn't it?
>> Yes, it does.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
It's not... [ Laughs ] This is almost...
I think this is the windiest I've been out working in.
I mean, this is crazy.
>> Yeah, this is.
>> Ekstedt: So these are the fish farms, just down here?
>> Yeah.
These are the boat equipment.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
>> So men and women are working hard in this weather, and it's a normal weather for them to be working in.
>> Ekstedt: That's it.
This is a normal working day.
>> We have to adapt to the weather, so yeah.
>> Ekstedt: You're not kidding me.
>> The weather doesn't adapt to us.
>> Ekstedt: I mean, this is crazy.
People that settled along the rugged west coast of Norway did so because of the rich fishing grounds.
Those who live here today mostly do it for the same reason.
Aquafarming slowly developed into the success it is today.
The first fish farms were established in the 1950s.
♪♪ >> My name is Stain Amble.
I work as a biological controller.
>> Ekstedt: Okay >> We follow the growth to see if the fish grows right.
And also involved in the food-safety part, making sure that the fish is safe to eat.
Because of the conditions that we have, their natural -- >> Ekstedt: With the weather you got.
>> Yeah, we got the weather, and we also have the ocean.
The clear ocean.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
Big currents coming through.
>> The big currents coming through, which gives the salmon really a good condition to grow.
And, of course, all the islands, inlets that create good conditions for us to produce our salmon in.
>> Ekstedt: It takes two to three years for the salmon to reach the right size and end up at a dinner table.
The most important thing for all aquafarmers is the health of the salmon.
So a miracle happened.
The wind calmed down, and I even saw a little bit of sun just earlier.
So I'm very happy, because I'm now gonna cook for you.
And I'm gonna cook for Maria, as well, and she's gonna come down here, hopefully.
I have these two amazing dishes for her.
One is gonna be scallops, straight into the fire, with a little bit of butter, and then I'm gonna make a Japanese/Swedish-style tartare.
You'll see.
So I want to cut the fish into !sanmai-oroshi, like Japanese, "in three pieces."
I just learned this technique, so bear with me.
Gonna cut right down here.
And one cut here.
So cut sideways down on this side.
And then one cut straight down here.
This part here is actually really delicious.
And we can scrape that and use that in the tartare.
And then we flip the fish over.
And from the belly to the tail, we do one cut, okay?
So then cut from the skin, like that.
And then one clean cut straight down the bones.
That's the fillet.
So I'm gonna use that for later cooking.
With a thicker knife, we're gonna finish the de-boning.
So we have two fillets we can use, 'cause now I want to use this.
The meat that's on the bone, that's what I'm gonna scrape off and make into beautiful tartare.
Okay?
You see how oily that is, that meat?
That's so good.
That's where all the flavor is, in the fat.
Like bacon.
This is the bacon from the sea.
[ Chuckles ] Okay.
Want to get rid of all this meat.
Nothing left.
Just bone.
Now we're gonna make the marinade for the tartare.
Want some onion in there.
Finely chopped shallots.
I'm gonna try not to cut my finger.
Chopped shallots.
[ Chuckles ] Some garlic.
So, we're gonna make this tartare Japanese/Scandinavian-insp So instead of wasabi, we're gonna put some mustard in there, and then regular vinegar.
And then soy sauce.
♪♪ [ Smacks lips ] So good!
So simple.
The most delicious things are simple, aren't they?
I'm gonna just go through the tartare once more with a knife.
You could eat this now.
Just put this on a little, like, crispy bread and have it as a canapé.
Or you can let this rest for a while, and it's gonna have even more flavor.
Let's put this on the side, and I'm gonna finish off the scallops.
Super simple scallop recipe.
The scallops in Lovund are hand-picked by divers.
This guarantees high quality, and the continuation of a healthy population of scallops.
Look at that.
You can actually see how fresh this is.
With a knife, we're gonna cut this down on this side, like this.
Gonna remove it.
And then this thing here is the roe.
Pink is the roe.
In Norway, they say if you eat this every day, you'll turn 200.
And then we clean out the shell.
So, put the pan -- the shell, the scallop, whatever you want to call it -- straight into the fire like that.
Scandinavian invention.
Butter.
So can you hear how hot that is?
[ Butter sizzling ] And then I'm gonna cut my scallop in two.
Because this is a quick one.
Okay.
Now you fry the scallop and the roe in this.
[ Scallops sizzling ] Maybe little bit, pinch of salt on that.
You just need to give that, like, 1 minute and 20 seconds on each side, and it's done.
The dish is done, and it's the most stunning and delicious scallop you've ever had, I promise.
You can find all our recipes on our website, newscancook.com.
♪♪ >> It looks delicious.
>> Ekstedt: Good.
Thank you.
>> Yeah, very good.
>> Ekstedt: Kind of like Asian/Nordic.
Japan meets Norway.
>> Very good.
>> Ekstedt: And then the scallops.
>> Very nice.
>> Ekstedt: Try that, as well.
So I must admit, I was a little nervous cooking salmon for you, because you've probably had all kinds of salmon, right?
>> At least in several ways.
>> [ Laughs ] Okay, great.
>> In many ways.
>> Ekstedt: But your life is out here on the island.
>> Yes, it is.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
>> Mm.
>> Ekstedt: You got the kids in school, and -- yeah.
>> Yeah.
>> Ekstedt: It's a very different way of life.
I mean, compared to living in the city, right?
>> It has become quite international.
>> Ekstedt: Oh, really?
>> There's a lot of different nationalities living here.
>> Ekstedt: They come to work within the fishing industry?
>> Yeah, yeah.
>> Ekstedt: And that needs different professions, and then your hire them from other countries.
>> Yeah, or Norway.
>> Ekstedt: I mean, that's kind of unusual.
I mean, a lot of rural areas around the world get less people, the more people move into the cities.
But here, it's the opposite.
>> Yeah.
It's quite a unique trend along the coast of Norway.
>> Ekstedt: Really?
And that's thanks to the salmon and the fish?
>> Yes, it is.
>> Ekstedt: The beautiful walk from the harbor to Lovund Hotell is over in less than 10 minutes.
♪♪ Wow.
A new day, and thank God it's less wind.
I will meet a Scotsman who's diving for scallops here in Lovund, and he'll show me some tricks of the trade.
These my scallop divers?
>> Hello.
>> Hey, man.
>> Hey.
I'm Neil.
>> [ Speaks indistinctly ] '>> Yeah.
You want to come on?
We want to go.
>> Ekstedt: Gonna get those scallops.
>> Yeah.
Exactly, yeah.
>> Ekstedt: So, Neil is my new friend from New Castle, who ended up as a diver in the Arctic.
>> That's me.
>> Ekstedt: [ Laughs ] And you collect scallops mostly?
>> Yep.
Mostly it's the scallops.
We got a big monkfish yesterday.
>> Ekstedt: Really?
>> Yeah.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
Wow.
>> Yeah.
It was good.
>> Ekstedt: So, how did a New Castle boy end up in northern Norway fishing for scallops?
>> Well, I did the same thing in Scotland, and then... Yeah.
I came up here.
I guess not many people have been here, and it's such a beautiful place.
It's such a nice place to work.
So, yeah.
Get as far away from New Castle as I can.
>> Ekstedt: [ Laughs ] Yeah, this sure beats New Castle.
>> Yeah, yeah.
That's for sure.
>> Ekstedt: So, what's life like fishing out here?
It must be cold, getting into the water, right?
>> Yeah.
2 degrees in the winter.
You're pretty restricted by the light.
December, January, can't really do a lot.
So the summer months are the best.
>> Ekstedt: You can't see the scallops anywhere.
You don't have anything to... >> Not till I get down there.
>> Ekstedt: No.
>> That's the gamble.
>> Ekstedt: And what depth are you looking for?
You're looking for, like...?
>> So look.
So it's right there.
It's around 20 meters.
>> Ekstedt: 20 meters.
>> Yeah.
21.
That's fine.
>> Ekstedt: So you're trying to find a good spot?
>> Yeah, just through experience, what I know best.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
>> And then see what's there.
>> Ekstedt: The seabed is filled with wild scallops.
These beautiful and tasty creatures can actually swim by blowing out water from within their shells.
Here in the Norwegian cold water, they are big and full of flavor.
>> [ Laughs ] >> Ekstedt: You find some?
Oh, you found a mahogany clam, too, and scallops.
>> Just for you, though.
>> Ekstedt: Whoo-hoo-hoo- hoo-hoo!
>> Oh, it's beautiful down there.
>> Ekstedt: Was it?
>> So nice, yeah.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah?
[ Laughs ] Look at that!
Beautiful, big scallops.
And these famous Norwegian mahogany clams.
This is way more than I expected.
I never though you were gonna find these.
>> Oh, really?
[ Laughs ] They're not as hard as Rod makes out as.
[ Laughter ] >> Ekstedt: Great.
But before I get to taste the mahogany clams, I'll meet Tomas Nilsen.
Tomas is the celebrity chef on Lovund, and together we will catch one of his favorite food.
Okay, Tomas.
You've been a chef here for like 12 years?
>> Yeah.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
>> Something like that.
>> Ekstedt: That's great.
We're now gonna go and pick sea urchins, one of the most favorite ingredients for chefs.
>> Yeah.
The sea urchins from this area is big and juicy-tasting.
>> Ekstedt: Okay.
Great.
And you just pick them just straight out of the dock?
>> Yeah.
On this island, they grow straight to the dock.
You just take these tools that we have now, and just picking them straight up.
>> Ekstedt: Great.
I mean, sea urchins are my absolute favorite ingredient.
I just love them.
>> Yeah, the umami taste is very intense.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
Oooh, hoo-hoo-hoo!
My first one.
That's massive!
This must be the biggest uni I've ever seen.
>> Of course, I've seen bigger.
>> Ekstedt: Have you?
>> But for today, I think you are truly happy with this size.
>> Ekstedt: [ Laughs ] I mean, it's just an amazing umami flavor in these, aren't they?
>> Yeah.
Very crisp umami flavor.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
Strong one.
>> Yeah.
>> Ekstedt: Oh, I love this.
Can't wait to cook this.
Let's cook.
>> Ekstedt: These sea urchins are so beautiful.
So I think I'm gonna keep them raw, but I'll do something cooked with them.
So I'm gonna take cabbage, and I'm just gonna cook it quickly in the fire to give it that grilled flavor.
And then I'm gonna use some salmon, of course, some sashimi salmon, and then put the sea urchin on top.
And with this cabbage and sea urchin, we're gonna eat these 200-year-old clams.
I don't want to do that much with these, either.
I just want to eat them raw.
So we're gonna open these in a second.
But first I'm gonna open this sea urchin.
It's actually the roe that we want.
It's on the side of the sea urchin.
So we're gonna open it up with scissors.
But first we're gonna pierce with the knife on the side here.
Pierced hole with the knife, and then just cut in a circle around the sea urchin so you open it from the top.
So you get a type of lid on top like that.
Look at that roe.
That's like caviar, and it's so delicious.
And that's what they pay hundreds of dollars for in sushi bars in Tokyo.
Okay?
So cabbage, I'm just quickly gonna give some color and flavor in the fire.
I'm gonna brush them with a little bit of butter, like this.
I'm gonna put the sea urchin and the salmon in the bottom, here.
So this is the side that I'm gonna put into the fire.
And then I'm gonna cut some few slices of salmon sashimi with this bite.
'Cause there's not a lot of meat in that sea urchin.
It's more flavor.
It's more like caviar.
So you just want to top it off with that.
When the cabbage is burnt on the side like that, I'm just gonna put the salmon in here, and then a little bit of !uni is gonna be on top of this.
Okay.
Look how delicious that looks.
Like a fish taco, with a lot of umami from the sea urchin.
[ Laughs ] It's just so good.
I'm just gonna open the clam.
That's about it.
That's all I'm gonna do with that.
So it's 200 years old, so I really want to do this carefully.
♪♪ Look how beautiful that is.
Just like with the salmon, just a sashimi of this.
Thin slices.
I'm gonna eat this raw with a little bit of lemon.
Okay.
Remember, you can find all our recipes on our website, newscancook.com.
How are you?
You guys want to dig in?
>> Yeah, love to.
So this one's the sea urchin?
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
The sea urchin with salmon sashimi, and then grilled cabbage.
So eat it like a taco.
Taste of sea, huh?
>> Lovely, yeah.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
So, these are 200 years old.
Mmm!
Those are good.
>> These are one of my favorites.
>> Ekstedt: It's like the best oyster you've ever had, and then times two.
>> Yeah.
>> Ekstedt: So good.
>> So sweet, yeah.
>> Ekstedt: Thank you so much, Tomas.
Beautiful island.
I mean, so beautiful.
And thank you for the clams and the scallops.
>> Any time.
>> Ekstedt: Here in the north, the sea has always been crucial for survival.
It's actually been the distinction between riches and hunger.
This is beautiful Bodo Harbor in northwestern Norway, just on the Arctic Circle.
This is one of the windiest cities in Norway, and the tidal currents out there are super strong, among the strongest in the world.
But the seafood is amazing.
One of the reasons for my visit to Bodo is to meet the chef at Thon Hotel, Daniel Lind.
Daniel is in charge of the food at the hotel, and he will try my last dish.
I heard that you're the local celebrity here.
You're the most famous chef from Bodo >> If you say so.
[ Laughs ] >> Ekstedt: Yeah?
>> Yeah.
>> Ekstedt: Let's say so.
I need some advice.
I mean, I'm trying to cook an authentic Bodo dish, so I need your help.
>> Okay.
Yeah.
>> Ekstedt: So, what's Bodo famous for?
What's the local ingredients that I should use in a dish?
>> We have a lot of salmon.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah.
Check.
>> Yeah.
>> Ekstedt: [ Laughs ] >> Right now, at the moment, we have a lot of forest mushrooms.
>> Ekstedt: Oh, right.
>> Yeah.
>> Ekstedt: Nice.
>> And we have also reindeer from Saltfjellet.
>> Ekstedt: Okay.
But salmon is kind of like a year-round product?
It never goes out of season.
It's always there.
>> That's true.
>> Ekstedt: Okay.
So, I'm cooking for you this kind of, like, Bodo hot pot with two types of salmon on top -- one cured and one smoked.
Sounds good?
>> Sounds really good.
>> Ekstedt: Yeah?
So you can join me out there?
>> Of course.
♪♪ >> Ekstedt: Now I'm gonna cook for Daniel.
So I'm cooking a Norwegian dish for a Norwegian chef.
So I'm gonna start off with salt and hay, and burn into ashes, and then I'm gonna make a gravlax of that, a cured salmon with burned-hay ashes.
So what we want here is, we want the ashes.
We want all the hay to be burnt up.
Now just mix the salt and the burnt hay.
This is the best piece of the salmon, the middle piece, for this dish.
So the salt and the ashes.
Just gonna drizzle that on top like this.
So see how the ashes from the hay get onto the fish like that?
That's actually really good.
So this is real Viking food.
So if you like, like, sashimi, like raw style of salmon, you can just let this sit for half an hour, 20 minutes, and it's done.
But if you like your salmon more cured, you can just sit overnight in the fridge.
Okay.
And now I'm gonna do the smoked salmon.
What I usually use is the belly of the salmon.
It's way more fat content, and it's just better for smoked salmon.
So I'm just gonna use, again, just regular hay.
So while there are flames in the hay, you just cover it up with a lid, kill the fire, and you just let this rest.
And this will be done in like 20 minutes.
So, with the cured salmon and the smoked salmon, I'm gonna make a hot pot with vegetables and beans, and then I'm gonna finish that off with some Norwegian butter and cream, of course.
♪♪ So, we want to give these a little bit of flavor from the fire.
I'm gonna finish the dish off with some raw carrots.
It's just gonna give the dish an extra kind of, like, texture.
♪♪ Now I just finish off with the beans.
The beans just need to be heated.
They're pre-cooked.
Tablespoon of this soured cream in here.
Beans and vegetables.
Little bit of these microgreens on top of here.
I actually heard that Daniel is gonna bring some mushrooms, as well, that he picked the other day, so that might be really good for this dish, actually.
Look at that.
Look how cool that looks.
Go that black-coated salmon on top, and then red in the middle.
Really nice.
There it is.
There's Daniel's dish.
The hot pot with the smoked salmon and then the gravlax, the cured salmon with ashes from hay.
For exact details on our recipes, just go to our website, newscancook.com.
Daniel!
>> Hello.
So, I got some of my mushrooms.
>> Ekstedt: Great!
These are local mushrooms?
>> Yes.
Just picked today.
>> Ekstedt: Really?
They're beautiful.
They're chanterelles?
>> Yes.
>> Ekstedt: Amazing ones.
I'm gonna fry these in some Norwegian butter, of course.
>> It was really good flavors.
>> Ekstedt: Was it?
Great.
I think it's gonna be even better with your mushrooms.
[ Chuckles ] They look beautiful.
Look at that.
Wow.
>> Mmm.
>> Ekstedt: Give it a different flavor, right?
The ashes gives it kind of like a smokiness.
>> Yeah.
It's really good.
>> Ekstedt: Lovund and Bodo, with its rugged weather, really made me feel alive.
I will definitely visit again.
Thank you for joining me.
See you next time.
♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ >> For more of the "New Scandinavian Cooking" experience, visit our website or Facebook page.
♪♪ >> Funding for this series has been provided in part by the following... >> Up Norway, curates Norwegian travel experiences in the footsteps of "New Scandinavian Cooking."
>> ♪ No, take me home ♪ Take me home where I belong >> Vgan, the full taste of chocolate.
>> Grieg Suites.
Chocolate with apples from Norway.
♪♪ Havila Voyages.
Pure Northern.
♪♪
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New Scandinavian Cooking is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television