>> male announcer: WELCOME TO TRAVELSCOPE, WITH JOSEPH ROSENDO, WHERE EACH WEEK, YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT.

>> Rosendo: TODAY ON TRAVELSCOPE, I BEGIN MY INDIA ADVENTURE IN DELHI AND THEN DIVE HEAD FIRST INTO THE HEART OF INDIA, THE STATE OF MADHYA PRADESH.

>> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.

DK CITY AND COUNTRY GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, HOTEL AND DINING CHOICES, GUIDED WALKS, AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.

DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.

>> Rosendo: WELL, I FINALLY MADE IT BACK TO INDIA, BUT MY LUGGAGE STAYED IN THE U.S.

THIS IS WHY I ALWAYS SUGGEST THAT YOU PUT ANYTHING THAT'S REALLY IMPORTANT IN YOUR CARRY-ON LUGGAGE.

SO I'M A LITTLE SHORT OF CLOTHES, BUT AIR INDIA IS TAKING CARE OF IT.

[percussive Indian music] ♪ ♪ HEY.

>> HOW ARE YOU?

>> Rosendo: GOOD.

RUNNING AROUND OLD DELHI, CHECKING OUT THE MARKETS.

I'M HOPING THERE'S GOING TO BE A CLOTHES MARKET.

INDIA IS A NEVER-ENDING CIRCUS.

THREE BLOCKS, YOU SEE THINGS YOU'VE NEVER SEEN BEFORE, YOU SMELL THINGS YOU'VE NEVER SMELLED BEFORE.

LOOK AT THE RED FORT FROM HERE OVER THE TOPS OF THE BUSES AND THE CARS AND THE MASSES OF PEOPLE.

LOOK AT THAT.

THAT LOOKS GREAT.

OBVIOUSLY, WHEN YOU COME TO THE MARKET, FOOD IS A VERY IMPORTANT PART OF IT TOO, RIGHT?

>> YES.

IN FACT, THIS STREET IS ALSO FAMOUS FOR DIFFERENT KINDS OF THE FOOD.

THERE IS A VERY FAMOUS SNACK THAT IS CALLED THE SAMOSA AND SOME WHITE POTATO, YOGURT.

GREEN CHILI WE HAVE.

>> Rosendo: YOU MEAN THAT'S HOT?

>> YEAH-- >> Rosendo: THAT'S WHAT GIVES IT SPICE?

>> YES, IT IS PART OF THE SPICES THERE.

>> Rosendo: WHAT DO WE HAVE HERE?

>> THIS IS A VERY FAMOUS SWEET IN INDIA.

>> Rosendo: OH, THESE ARE JALEBI.

>> THIS SHOP IS MORE THAN 150 YEARS OLD.

SO IT IS LANDMARK HERE.

>> Rosendo: AND IT'LL BE HERE FOR ANOTHER 150 YEARS TOO.

>> I HOPE SO, YES.

>> Rosendo: LOOK HOW HE'S DOING IT OVER HERE.

SO HE MAKES THE LITTLE SWIRLS, AND THEN THEY TAKE IT OUT OF HERE ONCE IT'S COOKED, AND THEY DUMP IT INTO A SUGAR SYRUP.

OH, MY GOD.

THERE YOU GO.

>> HAVE IT.

>> Rosendo: OH, WELL, THANK YOU.

FREE JALEBIS.

WHAT MORE COULD YOU WANT?

>> IT'S BECAUSE MORE TASTY HERE.

THAT'S ABOUT THE SWEETEST THING I'VE EVER EATEN.

THIS IS WHERE ALL THE INDIAN PEOPLE GET THEIR ENERGY.

>> YEAH, THE SOURCE OF ENERGY.

>> Rosendo: THIS WILL KEEP YOU GOING FOR ABOUT A WEEK.

RAJ, HOW MANY PEOPLE LIVE HERE IN DELHI?

>> 14 MILLION PEOPLE LIVE HERE.

>> Rosendo: 14 MILLION?

>> 14 MILLION PEOPLE.

>> Rosendo: AND THEY'RE ALL ON THIS STREET TONIGHT?

>> NOT THESE PEOPLE, NO.

>> Rosendo: NO, THEY'RE ALL HERE.

>> SO NOT ALL THE 14s ARE HERE, BUT 45% OF THE TOTAL POPULATION LIVES IN THESE AREAS.

>> Rosendo: OKAY, WELL, I'M GONNA HAVE TO FIND A NEW SHIRT BECAUSE I FEEL OUT OF PLACE HERE.

SO THIS IS THE WAY TO THE CLOTHES SHOP?

>> YEAH.

>> Rosendo: FABULOUS, LET'S GO.

HELLO.

>> HELLO.

>> Rosendo: YOU KNOW, I'VE BEEN WEARING THIS SHIRT SINCE MY LUGGAGE DIDN'T COME LAST NIGHT.

>> WHY DON'T YOU BUY A NEW ONE?

>> Rosendo: YEAH, THAT'S WHAT I THOUGHT.

>> I'LL GIVE YOU SOMETHING, INDIAN SHIRT NICELY HAND-EMBROIDERED.

CHECK OUT THESE.

>> Rosendo: CAN I TRY IT ON?

>> SURE.

>> Rosendo: I HOPE THIS WORKS 'CAUSE I'VE BEEN HOT ALL DAY.

>> IT FEELS LIKE A/C INSIDE IT, AIR CONDITIONED.

>> Rosendo: OOH, IT IS LIGHTWEIGHT.

OH, YEAH.

THAT'S GONNA BE FINE.

WELL, OKAY, HOW MUCH IS THIS?

>> 210 RUPEES ONLY.

>> Rosendo: 210 RUPEES.

THAT'S ABOUT $5.

AND HOPEFULLY MY LUGGAGE WILL COME TONIGHT, SO THEN I'LL-- >> HEY, FRIEND, WE HOPE THE BEST FOR YOUR LUGGAGE.

>> Rosendo: THANK YOU.

THANK YOU.

>> BYE.

[drumming and brass music] ♪ ♪ WHOA, INDIA, I LOVE IT.

I'M NOT SURE EXACTLY WHAT THAT WAS, BUT YOU KNOW, IF YOU STICK AROUND IN THE STREETS OF INDIA, SOMETHING MAGNIFICENT WILL HAPPEN TO YOU.

[music and horns honking] [train horse whistling] [Indian flute music] ♪ ♪ AFTER THE CHAOS AND CROWDS AND ELECTRICITY OF DELHI, IT'S GREAT TO BE ON THE SHATABDI EXPRESS HEADING INTO THE HEART OF INDIA TO THE STATE OF MADHYA PRADESH.

INDIA HAS A BILLION PEOPLE.

AND YET 75% OF THE POPULATION LIVE IN RURAL COMMUNITIES.

BY GOING TO THE HEART OF INDIA, WE'RE GONNA BE ABLE TO EXPERIENCE THAT RURAL LIFE AND GET A NEW PERSPECTIVE ON INDIA.

MOST TOURISTS TAKE THE SHATABDI EXPRESS, THE FASTEST TRAINS IN INDIA, FROM DELHI TO POPULAR TOURIST SITES LIKE AGRA AND ITS TAJ MAHAL.

IN MY SEARCH FOR RURAL INDIA, I BEGAN MY ADVENTURE 73 MILES SOUTH OF AGRA IN GWALIOR.

THE CITY'S MAIN ATTRACTION IS ITS MASSIVE FORT, OFTEN CALLED THE GIBRALTAR OF INDIA.

TELL ME ABOUT THE PEOPLE WHO BUILT THIS FORT.

>> ACTUALLY, THIS FORT WAS FOUNDED IN THE SIXTH CENTURY.

THEN AFTER MANY RULERS, THEY SUCCEED THE GWALIOR FORT.

>> Rosendo: WHAT WAS IT ABOUT THIS TOWN THAT MADE THIS A VERY IMPORTANT PLACE?

>> BECAUSE THIS IS THE CENTER OF THE HEART OF THE COUNTRY, YOU KNOW.

AND THIS IS VERY RICH AGRICULTURAL AREA.

SO NOW YOU ARE GOING TO ENJOY THE TOP FLOOR OF THIS KARAN MAHAL PALACE.

THE KING AND THE QUEEN, THEY ENJOY THE GRAND PANORAMA OF THE GWALIOR.

AND THE PEOPLE, THOSE WHO WORKED DIRECTLY FOR THE KING AND KINGDOM, THEY WERE ALLOWED TO LIVE INSIDE.

>> Rosendo: YOU KNOW, I CAN JUST IMAGINE ALL THESE PEOPLE BEING HERE AND EVERYTHING BEING BEAUTIFUL AND LUSH AND WELL MANICURED.

IT MUST HAVE BEEN QUITE A LIFESTYLE.

>> YES.

[bell ringing] SO HERE IS THE TEMPLE OF SHIVA.

YOU ARE NOW RIGHT NOW GETTING A BLESSING FROM A BRAHMAN PRIEST.

AND HE JUST OFFERED YOU AS A HOLY WATER, ONE OF THE RITUAL, JUST FOR YOUR PURIFICATION.

>> Rosendo: NOW, TO BECOME A PRIEST, DID HE HAVE TO GO THROUGH ANY STUDY?

IS THERE ANYTHING?

>> SEE, HE SAYS THAT ONE HAS TO BE IN THE FAMILY OF A BRAHMAN.

SO ALL HINDU TEMPLE PRIESTS ARE NORMALLY BRAHMAN.

>> Rosendo: I SEE.

NOW, WHY DID HE RING THE BELL?

>> SO WHENEVER YOU ARE GOING TO PERFORM A PRAYER, YOU ARE GOING TO GIVE A BELL.

THAT IS KIND OF ATTENDANCE.

AND YOU ARE SAYING THAT "I AM IN YOUR COURT.

I'M IN YOUR PRAYER.

SO PLEASE BLESS ME."

THIS IS TO THE GOD.

>> Rosendo: KIND OF GETTING THE GOD'S ATTENTION.

>> YES, SIR.

>> Rosendo: TELL HIM THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR ME.

>> [speaking native language] NO, HE'S GIVING YOU THE PALM, FULL PALM.

>> Rosendo: OH, WOW.

>> FULL BLESSINGS TO YOU.

>> Rosendo: THANK YOU.

>> FOR YOUR HAPPINESS.

[water dripping] >> Rosendo: SO CHANDRA, WHAT ARE THESE FIGURES?

>> ACTUALLY, YOU KNOW, RIGHT NOW WE ARE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FORT.

AND YOU KNOW, THE ROCK IS CARVED OUT WITH THESE JAIN TIRTHANKARS.

>> Rosendo: NOW, IF I UNDERSTAND CORRECTLY, IN THE JAIN RELIGION, THIS WOULD BE LIKE OUR EQUIVALENT IN CHRISTIANITY AS PROPHETS.

>> YEAH.

SO IN THEIR RELIGION, SOME DIFFERENT PRINCIPLES ARE, LIKE, THEY NEVER USE CLOTHINGS ON THE BODY, AND IN THEIR LIFE IS VERY STRICT THE PRINCIPLE OF CELIBACY.

>> Rosendo: AND THEY'RE VERY NONVIOLENT TOO, AREN'T THEY?

>> YEAH, YOU ARE RIGHT.

>> Rosendo: TO EVEN ANIMALS AND PEOPLE.

>> THAT'S WHY THEY NEVER USE EVEN SHOES.

>> Rosendo: REALLY?

>> BECAUSE OF THEN THEY'RE GOING BY WALK, SMALL INSECTS MAYBE CAN BE, YOU KNOW, UNDER THE SHOE.

THAT'S WHY THEY WANT TO PROTECT.

AND HERE YOU CAN SEE A VERY BIG ONE.

18 METER HIGH, THE FIRST JAIN TIRTHANKAR KNOWN AS THE NAME AJITNATH.

AND I'M SORRY TO MENTION HERE, BECAUSE DURING THE TIME OF THE MUGHALS, THEIR FACES, FIGURES WERE DEFACED AND CHOPPED OFF.

BECAUSE, AS YOU KNOW, THE MUGHALS, THEY WERE FROM THE ISLAM RELIGION.

>> Rosendo: YES.

>> AND THEIR RELIGION IS NO IDOL, NO DEITY PRAYERS.

SO THEY OPPOSE ALL THESE.

BUT NOW SAME FACES YOU ARE LOOKING ARE MADE BY THE ARCHEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA.

>> Rosendo: CHANDRA, WHAT THIS SIGNIFIES TO ME IS, THERE HAVE BEEN SO MANY DIFFERENT INFLUENCES.

AND WHEN THEY GET TOGETHER, IT'S LIKE THEY ALL GET ABSORBED BY INDIA.

THEY DON'T STAY SEPARATE.

THEY JUST ALL GOT ABSORBED.

>> THAT'S 100% TRUE.

[percussive flute music] ♪ ♪ >> Rosendo: THERE'S MANY WAYS TO NAVIGATE YOURSELF THROUGH THE TRAFFIC IN INDIA, BUT ONE OF THE BEST WAYS IS BY TAKING THE AUTO SHAW.

IT'S CALLED LOTS OF THINGS IN ASIA.

IT'S CALLED A TUK TUK.

IT'S CALLED A TROLLEY SHAW.

THEY'RE INEXPENSIVE WAYS TO GET AROUND TOWN, AND THEY REALLY KNOW HOW TO WEAVE IN AND OUT OF THE TRAFFIC.

SO IF YOU TAKE ONE OF THEM, YOU'RE LIKELY TO GET TO WHERE YOU'RE GOING JUST A LITTLE BIT QUICKER THAN IF YOU WERE WALKING.

[woman vocalizing] ♪ ♪ AS YOU KNOW, COWS ARE REVERED IN INDIA.

AND THERE'S AN EXAMPLE.

HERE WE ARE RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF TOWN, AND HERE'S A COW TAKING IT EASY.

IT REALLY IS A SEVEN-RING CIRCUS, ISN'T IT?

I THOUGHT I CAME TO MADHYA PRADESH TO GET THE RURAL EXPERIENCE.

THIS IS KIND OF LIKE DELHI LIGHT.

GWALIOR MAY NOT HAVE BEEN THE RURAL EXPERIENCE THAT I EXPECTED, BUT I DON'T HAVE TO GO FAR TO FIND IT.

TRAVELING THE BACK ROADS OF MADHYA PRADESH TO ORCHHA, I TAKE A GIANT LEAP BACK IN TIME AS INDIA'S UNCHANGED AND ENDURING FACE BEGINS TO MATERIALIZE.

[man vocalizing rhythmically] ♪ ♪ NAMASTE.

[splashing] BEFORE SUNRISE THE NEXT MORNING, I JOIN THE BATHERS AND WORSHIPPERS ALONG THE BETWA RIVER.

AS IS OFTEN THE CASE IN INDIA, WHAT STARTS OUT AS AN OBSERVATION OF INDIAN LIFE BECOMES AN INVITATION TO LIVE IT.

[birds chirping] [bell rings] [bell rings] [men vocalizing] [bell ringing] [man vocalizing] [rhythmic clapping] [clapping, ringing, and singing] >> [speaks in native language] [vocalizing in native language] >> Rosendo: NAMASTE.

THAT WAS QUITE A WONDERFUL EXPERIENCE... AND AN UNEXPECTED EXPERIENCE.

AND THAT'S KIND OF INDIA-- A WONDERFUL EXPERIENCE, AN UNEXPECTED EXPERIENCE.

THIS IS JUST A SMALL TEMPLE THAT'S ALONGSIDE THE RIVER.

THERE'S A LARGE ONE IN TOWN.

BUT THEY HAVE ALL SORTS OF RESTRICTIONS ABOUT WHETHER YOU CAN FILM PEOPLE OR WHETHER YOU CAN RECORD PEOPLE OR WHETHER YOU PROBABLY CAN EVEN PARTICIPATE.

BUT NOT HERE.

SO IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR IT IN INDIA, IT'S ALWAYS THERE AVAILABLE FOR YOU.

TAKING IT EASY ON THE TEMPLE STEPS WITH A LOCAL HOLY MAN AND HIS FAMILY.

HOW DO YOU BEAT THAT, EH?

PRETTY NICE.

[slurping] AH.

THANK YOU.

NAMASTE.

THANK YOU.

NAMASTE.

>> NAMASTE.

[shrill flute music] ♪ ♪ NOW, HERE'S THE FORT OF ORCHHA AND ONE OF THE MANY TEMPLES AND PALACES HERE, WHICH ARE WONDERFUL BACKDROPS.

BUT PRETTY MUCH THEY'RE DEAD THINGS, YOU KNOW, MEMORIALS AND BUILDINGS.

BUT THEY'RE BACKDROPS TO ALL THE LIFE THAT'S HERE IN INDIA.

AND THAT'S WHAT YOU'RE AFTER.

[horn honking] >> COCA-COLA?

>> Rosendo: NO.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: NAMASTE.

NAMASTE.

NO, I CAN'T USE THAT RIGHT NOW.

BUT THANK YOU.

NAMASTE.

HERE, NO, NO.

[laughs] SHE'S TYING IT ON.

NAMASTE.

NAMASTE.

YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT BACK.

>> NO.

>> Rosendo: OH, HERE, I'LL PUMP THE WELL.

OKAY, HERE.

YOU WANT TO WASH YOUR HANDS?

OH, HERE, YOU-- HERE, YOU PUMP THE WATER, AND I'LL WASH MY HANDS.

OH, IT'S FOR YOUR FEET.

NAMASTE IS AN INDIAN GREETING THAT MEANS "I BOW TO THE GOD IN YOU."

I DISCOVER THAT SAYING IT REMINDS EVEN THE MOST PERSISTENT VENDOR OF OUR HUMAN, NON-COMMERCIAL CONNECTION.

NAMASTE.

>> NAMASTE.

>> NAMASTE.

>> NAMASTE.

NAMASTE.

WHAT KIND OF FOOD DO WE HAVE?

>> IT'S PAKORAS.

>> Rosendo: WHAT IS IT?

>> YOU KNOW, IT'S-- WE PURCHASE SOME, LIKE, FLOURS.

FLOURS.

>> Rosendo: FLOUR, YEAH.

>> FLOURS, AND THEN WE MIX WATER AND, LIKE, SOME SPINE-ACH.

>> Rosendo: SPINACH, YEAH.

>> YES, AND SOME ONIONS.

THEN AFTER, WE FRY IT IN THE OIL.

AND THEN WE GOT IT.

>> Rosendo: OH, WELL, THANK YOU.

THIS IS GOOD.

[crunching] OH, YEAH, IT'S VERY TASTY.

>> YES.

AND NO IS SPICY.

>> Rosendo: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

THANK YOU FOR TEACHING ME.

AS YOU WALK THROUGH THE SQUARE HERE, THERE ARE LITTLE ART PIECES THAT HAVE BEEN DRAWN ON THE STONE.

AND THE MEDIUM IS COW MANURE.

YOU USE WHAT YOU HAVE.

THAT'S ONE OF THE THINGS YOU LEARN IN INDIA.

BUT YOU KNOW, A LOT OF PEOPLE THINK THAT SOME ART IS COW MANURE.

HERE COW MANURE IS ART.

[twangy sitar music] ♪ ♪ HERE'S SOMETHING THAT'S INTERESTING.

SO WHAT DO YOU USE THESE COLORS FOR?

>> IN MARCH, WE CELEBRATE HOLY.

>> Rosendo: IN MARCH, YOU CELEBRATE HOLY?

>> YEAH, YEAH.

>> Rosendo: AND WHAT DOES IT-- WHAT ARE YOU CELEBRATING?

>> AND WE THROW COLORS ON EACH OTHER.

>> Rosendo: YES.

>> IT'S A SIGN TO SHOW THE FRIENDSHIP TO EACH OTHER.

>> Rosendo: OKAY, THROW PAINT AT EACH OTHER.

>> AND HOW MUCH COLOR YOU THROW ON SOMEONE, IT SHOWS YOUR LOVE TO YOU.

>> Rosendo: THAT'S A VERY GOOD TRADITION.

WE NEED IT IN THE UNITED STATES.

I'LL BRING IT HOME WITH ME.

>> WHY NOT?

PLEASE.

>> Rosendo: THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

ORCHHA IS ONE OF THE FIRST TOWNS WHERE IT REALLY DOES HAVE THE RURAL VILLAGE FEEL.

IT LOOKS LIKE A SMALL TOWN.

IT FEELS LIKE A SMALL TOWN.

AND OF COURSE, IT IS.

THERE'S ONLY 8,000 PEOPLE HERE.

THIS IS WHY YOU HAVE TO GO OUT AND EXPERIENCE RURAL INDIA.

BECAUSE YOU WILL GET A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE THAN FROM WHAT YOU THINK ABOUT INDIA.

[plucked sitar music] ♪ ♪ THE CHANDELA TEMPLES AT KHAJURAHO MAY BE THE CROWNING TOURIST SITE OF MADHYA PRADESH.

YET THE JOURNEY FROM ORCHHA IS GUARANTEED TO BE ANYTHING BUT BORING.

IN INDIA, THE ELEPHANT IS STILL VERY VITAL TO THE LIVES OF THE PEOPLE WHO LIVE HERE.

IN SOME PARTS OF THE WORLD, ELEPHANTS DON'T WORK ANYMORE.

THEY'VE BEEN REPLACED BY TRACTORS, ET CETERA.

BUT HERE THEY'RE STILL USED IN THE COUNTRYSIDE IN THE RURAL AREAS.

NOW, THIS GENTLEMAN ACTUALLY USES HIS ELEPHANT TO JUST TRAVEL AROUND THE COUNTRY.

THEY'RE A GROUP OF PEOPLE WHO ARE FOLLOWING A SPIRITUAL CALLING.

SEEMS LIKE A FUN WAY TO BE TRAVELING AROUND THE COUNTRY.

AND EVERYTHING THEY HAVE TO EAT IS RIGHT HERE ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.

WHAT IS THIS, BREAD?

>> NAAN.

>> Rosendo: OH, HE'S EATING VEGETABLES RIGHT NOW.

OH, OKAY.

THERE HE GOES.

EVEN THE ELEPHANTS HAVE THE MARK FROM HAVING GONE THROUGH PRAYERS.

THANK YOU.

>> THANK YOU.

>> Rosendo: NAMASTE.

>> NAMASTE.

[monkey calling] >> Rosendo: THE CHANDELA TEMPLES AT KHAJURAHO ARE ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT SITES IN INDIA.

IT'S A WORLD HERITAGE SITE, AND MY GUIDE, SHIVA, HERE IS GOING TO BE GIVING ME A TOUR AND A LITTLE BACKGROUND ON ALL OF THESE BEAUTIFUL TEMPLES.

SHIVA, WHO BUILT THESE?

>> THIS TEMPLE BUILT BY CHANDELLA DYNASTY.

THEY BUILT ABOUT 9 TO 11 CENTURY A.D. >> Rosendo: SO THESE TEMPLES HAVE BEEN HERE FOR CENTURIES.

>> THIS IS THE RAJPUT CLAN, AND THEY BUILT 85 TEMPLE HERE, BUT 22 TEMPLE REMAINS.

>> Rosendo: OKAY.

>> ALMOST TEMPLE DESTROYED BY THE MUSLIM INVADER HERES.

>> Rosendo: SO, SHIVA, WHAT TEMPLE IS THIS?

>> KANDARIYA MAHADEV.

>> Rosendo: IS THIS THE LARGEST ONE HERE?

>> YEAH, LARGEST TEMPLE IN KHAJURAHO.

TEMPLE LOOKS LIKE HIMALAYA.

>> Rosendo: OH, AND IT'S MADE OUT OF SANDSTONE.

>> MADE OF TOTALLY SANDSTONE AND NO CEMENT.

YOU SEE THAT THIS TEMPLE HAVE A LOT OF FEMALE FIGURE.

>> Rosendo: I SEE THAT.

>> BECAUSE THIS TEMPLE, EVERYTHING REPRESENTING SOMETHING.

'CAUSE WHEN YOU ARE GOING WITH DESIRE TO THE TEMPLE, YOU ARE SO SAD.

BUT WHEN YOU SEE THIS BEAUTY-- BEAUTY OF THE LIFE OF HUMAN LIFE, YOU UNDERSTAND YOUR LIFE.

>> Rosendo: SO THE MEN WOULD COME AND SEE THESE FIGURES, WHICH REPRESENT WOMEN IN A VERY DESIRABLE AND VERY SENSUOUS FASHION, AND THEY WOULD BE ABLE TO LIVE THEIR DESIRE VICARIOUSLY.

>> YEAH.

YEAH.

>> Rosendo: RID THEMSELVES OF THE DESIRE, AND THEN SO WHEN THEY WENT TO WORSHIP SHIVA IN THE TEMPLE, THEY WERE CLEAR AND PURE.

>> BECAUSE WHEN YOU ARE GO WITHOUT DESIRE TO THE GOD, YOU ARE IN HEAVEN.

>> Rosendo: I SEE.

SO THIS IS A CELEBRATION OF LIFE... >> CELEBRATION OF THE LIFE.

>> Rosendo: CELEBRATION OF WOMAN... >> WOMANS.

>> Rosendo: AND A CELEBRATION OF THE SPIRITUAL THE SAME WAY.

>> YEAH, YEAH, SAME THING.

>> Rosendo: NOW, SHIVA, THERE'S SO MANY THINGS I LIKE ABOUT KHAJURAHO, BUT WHAT I REALLY LOVE IS THE PARKLIKE SETTING HERE.

IT'S SO SERENE AND PEACEFUL AND CALMING.

IT'S LIKE YOU'VE COME TO NIRVANA.

>> WHEN YOU ARE HAPPY, THIS IS THE NIRVANA.

THERE, UH, ONE CARVING WHICH IS TO SHOW YOU DAILY LIFE HERE, WHICH IS THE WOMAN ARE TAKING THE THRONE ON THE FOOT.

>> Rosendo: TAKING HER THORN FROM HER FOOT.

>> HER FOOT.

>> Rosendo: OH, YES.

I CAN SEE THAT.

>> BECAUSE WOMEN WORK IN THE FIELD.

THEY DON'T USE... >> Rosendo: SHOES.

>> SHOES OR SOCKS.

IF THE PEOPLE DID SOME WRONG BAD KARMA IN HIS DAILY LIFE, THEY HAVE A LOT OF THORN INSIDE THE BODY.

>> Rosendo: AS MANY LAYERS AS THERE ARE CARVINGS, IT'S THAT MANY DIFFERENT MEANINGS.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: IT'S AMAZING.

I LOVE THIS PLACE.

SHIVA, YOU'VE BEEN TALKING ABOUT THESE DIFFERENT CARVINGS AND, YOU KNOW, THEY DEPICT BASICALLY LIFE THE WAY IT WAS 1,000 YEARS AGO.

HOW ABOUT TODAY?

ARE THE TRADITIONS STILL AS STRONG AS THEY WERE?

HAVE THINGS CHANGED?

>> CHANGING DAY BY DAY, DAILY LIFE.

BUT THERE'S STILL WE HAVE SOME PLACES IN INDIA.

THEY ARE NOT CHANGING.

IF YOU GO TO THE COUNTRYSIDE NEARBY KHAJURAHO, THERE IS PEOPLE STILL LIVING LIKE A LONG TIME PEOPLE LIVED.

>> Rosendo: WELL, THAT'S GREAT.

MAYBE WE CAN VISIT SOME OF THE LOCAL VILLAGES AND GET A LITTLE SENSE OF WHAT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT.

[woman singing in native language] >> Rosendo: 75% OF THE INDIAN PEOPLE LIVE IN RURAL COMMUNITIES LIKE THIS.

SHIVA, WHERE ARE WE?

>> ABOUT 25 KILOMETER FAR FROM KHAJURAHO.

>> Rosendo: 25 KILOMETERS, THAT'S ABOUT 15 MILES FROM ONE OF THE MAJOR TOURIST AREAS IN MADYAH PRADESH.

>> 99% PEOPLE FROM THIS VILLAGE ARE FARMER.

>> Rosendo: FARMERS.

WHAT DO THEY FARM?

>> IN THE WINTER SEASON, THEY GROW UP MORE WHEAT.

AND THE RAINY SEASON, THEY GROW MORE VEGETABLES.

>> Rosendo: OH, I SEE.

>> THEY ARE MAKING DINNER NOW.

THIS IS SMALL FISH.

>> Rosendo: THEY'RE SMALL FISH?

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: WHERE DID SHE GET THE FISH?

>> [speaking in native language] >> [speaking in native language] >> SHE SAY, "MY HUSBAND CATCH THIS FISH IN THIS LAKE."

>> Rosendo: SHIVA, LIKE IN THE OTHER TOWNS THAT SEEM TO BE CLOSER TO THE TOURISTS, THEY SEEM TO-- I DON'T KNOW.

THIS TOWN LOOKS MORE NEAT, AND PEOPLE KEEP IT UP.

IT'S CLEANER.

AND IT'S FUNNY, BECAUSE THESE PEOPLE THAT ARE HERE, YOU'RE SAYING THEY'RE KIND OF FROM THE LOWER CASTES.

>> YES, YEAH, YEAH, YES.

>> Rosendo: THIS IS IT RIGHT HERE.

SHE'S DOING THE SAME THING.

>> SWEEPING IN COW DUNG.

>> Rosendo: SHE'S USING COW DUNG TO SEAL THE--TO CLEAN?

IS THAT WHAT IT'S FOR?

>> COW DUNG MAKE ANTIBIOTIC FOR THE BACTERIA.

>> Rosendo: REALLY?

>> YES, YOU KNOW THIS?

>> Rosendo: I DIDN'T KNOW THAT.

>> YEAH, THIS IS A VERY-- THIS IS THE ONLY ONE THING IS ANTIBIOTIC FOR BACTERIA.

ANY KIND OF BACTERIA, THEY NEVER COME TO THIS HOUSE.

>> Rosendo: SO SHE'S SEALING THE HOUSE UP WITH COW DUNG.

>> YEAH, YEAH.

>> Rosendo: WELL, THERE'S CERTAINLY--WILL ALL THE COWS AROUND, CERTAINLY ENOUGH MATERIAL.

>> YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.

THEY ARE LOOKING FOR YOU, BECAUSE YOU ARE A STRANGE-- >> Rosendo: STRANGE MAN.

>> STRANGE FOR THEM.

>> Rosendo: IN A STRANGE COUNTRY.

>> IN STRANGE COUNTRY.

>> Rosendo: IT'S QUITE OBVIOUS THAT WE'RE AN ATTRACTION BECAUSE OF OUR CAMERAS, BUT I THINK ANY VISITOR TO THIS LITTLE VILLAGE WOULD BE AN ATTRACTION.

THE FEELING IS THAT THE MORE RURAL PEOPLE GET, THE LESS THEY ARE KIND OF SPOILED BY TOURISM.

THERE'S A DIFFERENT FEELING IN THIS TOWN AS THEY'VE NEVER BEEN IN THE CITIES.

SO IF YOU HAD A DRIVER OR IF YOU HAD ACCESS TO TRANSPORTATION, OF COURSE, THIS IS THE KIND OF EXPLORATION THAT YOU COULD DO.

CERTAINLY I WOULD RECOMMEND THAT YOU HAVE A FRIEND LIKE SHIVA WITH YOU TO HELP WITH THE LANGUAGE AND BE A TOUR GUIDE FOR YOU.

>> [singing in native language] [orchestral music] ♪ ♪ >> Rosendo: NAMASTE.

THANK YOU FOR JOINING ME IN MY REDISCOVERY OF INDIA.

DURING THIS PART OF MY INDIA JOURNEY, I'VE LEARNED THAT IN 5,000 YEARS OF CIVILIZATION, INDIA'S HAD MANY RULERS.

THEY CAME.

THEY CONQUERED.

THEY VANISHED, THEIR PRESENCE ABSORBED INTO INDIAN CULTURE.

THEY ALL LEFT THEIR MARK: TEMPLES, PALACES, FORTRESSES, MONUMENTS TO THEIR POWER.

YET INDIA ISN'T FOUND IN ITS MONUMENTS BUT IN ITS STREETS, WHICH ARE TEEMING WITH LIFE AND VIBRATING WITH ENERGY.

INDIA IS ALWAYS A CHALLENGE, OFTEN OVERWHELMING, BUT NEVER DULL.

THAT'S WHY IT IS STILL ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST EXCITING DESTINATIONS.

JOIN ME NEXT TIME AS I CONTINUE MY INDIA JOURNEY.

UNTIL THEN, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN: "TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS."

HAPPY TRAVELING.

>> HELLO.

>> Rosendo: HELLO.

>> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.

DK CITY AND COUNTRY GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, HOTEL AND DINING CHOICES, GUIDED WALKS, AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.

DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.

TO ORDER A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S TRAVELSCOPE ADVENTURES, VISIT: OR CALL: VISIT US AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET TO LEARN MORE ABOUT TRAVELSCOPE AND TO JOIN JOSEPH'S WORLDWIDE ADVENTURES ON HIS BLOG.

KEEP IN TOUCH WITH US: OR EMAIL US AT: >> Rosendo: JOIN ME NEXT TIME ON TRAVELSCOPE WHEN I CONTINUE MY INDIA ADVENTURE AND EXPLORE INDIA'S RURAL HEART IN THE STATE OF MADHYA PRADESH.

Captioning by CaptionMax www.captionmax.com [exotic Indian music] ♪ ♪ BEAUTIFUL DAY IN INDIA.