
Mid Wales
Episode 9 | 44m 59sVideo has Closed Captions
James is joined by Gareth Ward in the beautiful Welsh Cambrian Mountains.
James Martin is joined by Michelin-starred chef Gareth Ward. They arrive in the beautiful Welsh Cambrian Mountains, where they drive through breathtaking scenery in James's Mini. They take a trip to one of the highest apple orchards in the UK, where they taste the delicious “Mountain Cider" and Gareth feeds beer to local Wagyu cows!
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback

Mid Wales
Episode 9 | 44m 59sVideo has Closed Captions
James Martin is joined by Michelin-starred chef Gareth Ward. They arrive in the beautiful Welsh Cambrian Mountains, where they drive through breathtaking scenery in James's Mini. They take a trip to one of the highest apple orchards in the UK, where they taste the delicious “Mountain Cider" and Gareth feeds beer to local Wagyu cows!
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Where to Watch James Martin's Islands to Highlands
James Martin's Islands to Highlands is available to stream on pbs.org and the PBS app.
Providing Support for PBS.org
Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship[theme music] Here we go.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'm going on my most ambitious British adventure yet-- Yes!
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --meeting some of the finest chefs in the world.
You've been sweating over, James.
Aw, poor James.
Aw.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Cooking my way from the far South.
Duck on a barbecue is just off the charts.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): --to the northernmost reaches of the land.
It's a magical experience.
JAMES MARTIN: You've got to do this.
It's amazing!
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And using some of the best produce you'll find anywhere.
FARMER: Come on, pigs.
Come on.
Come on.
GALTON BLACKISTON: Look, look at him.
How can you miss that mouth?
[laughs] JAMES MARTIN: And some of the places require a little bit more effort to get to.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'll be traveling by land, air, and sea.
TONY SINGH: Yeah, look.
Look, dolphins!
TONY SINGH: Dolphins.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): So join me as I explore the British Isles, from islands to highlands.
[upbeat music] ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): My adventure continues.
And today, I'm exploring the rolling hills of Mid Wales, where I'm joined by a man who's made this magnificent part of the world home, Michelin star chef Gareth Ward.
So I cannot believe you've never been in a Mini.
Mate, my whole family have had Minis.
My dad's had one.
My uncle's got one sat in his drive.
I've never been in it.
I think if you're going to donate one to me, I'll have one.
I'll look after it for you.
Yeah, I bet you will, yeah.
What do you think makes Welsh produce so unique?
Well, I mean, obviously, it's the land.
The land is insane.
Everyone's-- a lot of small producers.
It's not big.
JAMES MARTIN: So where are we now, then?
Where is-- where is this?
- I don't know.
I was hoping you'd tell me.
Well, you know where it is.
[laughter] Are we lost?
See, I come here, I find a local person.
I haven't got a clue.
I was enjoying the view.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): We're actually winding our way through the Cambrian Mountains, an area known as the green heart of Wales.
And our first destination on the trip is Llanidloes, the first town on the River Severn.
The scenery is just stunning.
And so I can take it all in.
I think Mini virgin Gareth should take me for a spin.
JAMES MARTIN: Get in and drive it, look.
It's the first time you've driven a Mini.
Yeah, how do I get out of it first?
How do you get out?
- Where is it?
- That one.
That one?
Pull it down?
JAMES MARTIN: No, pull it up.
- Up?
Oh, yeah.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Something tells me he's used to summat a bit bigger.
GARETH WARD: How am I going to do this?
See, if cooking doesn't fail, you could do the Gareth Ward-- Getting inside of cars.
Getting in and out of cars.
JAMES MARTIN: And an automatic.
GARETH WARD: How do I get in reverse?
That's still forward.
Is there a special way?
- No.
GARETH WARD: Is there not?
Right, clutch down.
Are we in reverse or what?
James, I'm going to get out and push it.
I would put it in reverse, but I don't want to-- - I think you should.
- I don't want to molest you.
GARETH WARD: Get it in reverse for me.
One second.
GARETH WARD: Oh, there he is, oh.
Never touched me there before.
I tell you what-- Let go.
--for such a small car, it's hard to turn around, innit?
I need a wet wipe now.
GARETH WARD: We're away.
JAMES MARTIN: I tell you what, if there's one car that suits you, it's got to be this.
I'm all over this.
I'm going to get one of these.
[laughter] Well, yeah.
You're happy with this?
GARETH WARD: Yeah.
JAMES MARTIN: See?
GARETH WARD: I'm loving it.
JAMES MARTIN: It's all right, innit?
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And we're finally on our way.
Next stop, Welsh mountain cider, a beautiful six-acre smallholding run by Bill Bleasdale and Chava Richmond.
GARETH WARD: This is it.
Look at that.
JAMES MARTIN: Prospect Orchard.
GARETH WARD: Ready to taste some cider.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And being in the mountains, their orchard is apparently one of the highest in the United Kingdom.
So how did it all start?
BILL BLEASDALE: Well, about 15 years ago, I had the opportunity to buy this six-acre plot.
And my dad makes a bit of cider in Somerset.
And I thought I'd plant an orchard.
We've got over 500 varieties of apple and pear.
So every single tree here is a different variety.
JAMES MARTIN: A lot of people would say that you shouldn't grow apples at altitude.
I mean, this has got to be one of the highest apple orchards in the country, hasn't it?
CHAVA RICHMOND: Generally, you can see, like, they're all growing.
And I think you've just got to try things and hope for the best.
I think the trouble with like, obviously, being at altitude with heavy winds and the weight of the trees when they're full of apples.
Last year we had a few broken branches because there was so much fruit.
But generally, they stand up to it pretty well, yeah.
So you take the apples from here, and the cider that you produce, I mean, that is purely, purely natural stuff.
Yeah, we press them here.
We ferment them naturally, so it's just the juice.
We don't add anything, no sulfites, no sugar, no yeast.
And it's become really popular, this, because not only you've got your own stuff, you're actually encouraging people to come and visit.
So every winter we sell orchards by post.
Every winter we send out around 20 acres of orchard all around the UK, to Europe as well.
So we're really into spreading the knowledge of how to make proper cider.
So I'm looking forward to trying some, aren't you?
Can't wait, mate.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): They make around 14 different vintages every year, from rich dark blends to a light white-wine-style cider made mostly from dessert apples.
JAMES MARTIN: So tell me what we've got in here.
We've got some to taste then.
The first one is our Flanders Cox.
So that's a single variety cider.
So it's just one type of apple in there.
That's a good one, innit?
I tell you what, that's all right, innit?
It's all right that, chef.
JAMES MARTIN: But the great thing about this, it's not sweet, it's not sharp.
It's totally different to commercial cider, I mean, in every sense of the word.
- It is.
It's very well balanced.
It's very well balanced but pure in terms of its flavor.
Like a really, really good unpasteurized cheddar, there's flavors that keep coming a minute after you've-- I was going to say you can still taste it, still taste it, yeah.
And that to us is what makes a truly great cider.
This is the nicest cider I've ever had.
Yeah, it's delicious.
JAMES MARTIN: It really is because you get the sweetness, you get the sharpness.
But it's like really good wine.
And this is what you were saying about-- you leave it for a period of time.
It's aged.
This was made in the end of November, beginning of December 2013, this cider.
- Well, thanks for that.
- Cheers again.
- Which one was that again?
- That was this one.
I'm going to have that one.
I'm going to have that one as well.
Lovely.
I'm going to go cook with this now.
- Enjoy.
- Thank you very much.
Amazing.
And don't drink too much of it.
You take your time, chef.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Why does he keep calling me chef?
Anyway, there's no way I can taste cider like that and not cook with it.
So I'm going to use it in a delicious dessert.
I thought I'd use some of this fantastic cider to create a wonderful little fritter dish, all using some great apples.
We're going to do a little cider, fritter cider, butter cider, custard cider in everything really.
For our custard, I've got some nice cider over here.
I've got some cream, I've got some eggs, and a bit of sugar.
That's all you really need.
The French call this creme anglaise.
It's custard.
We take a little bit of our cider.
We've got our cider in here because it's not too sweet, which is exactly what we want for this.
We can then add our cream.
Now, really for this, you need to measure the amount of liquid, because that's all to do with your egg yolks.
Roughly, a standard custard would be eight egg yolks set to about a liter of liquid.
So I've got a few egg yolks here.
You can either sweeten this with a touch of honey, or I like to use a bit of sugar.
It is important when you're doing this not to add the sugar too early, particularly to egg yolks.
It will cure the egg yolks and actually start to cook them.
So good tip for that is to add a little bit of sugar to the eggs and the rest to our pan over here.
What we want to do is just bring this to a gentle sort of simmer.
Now, the flavorings in there, you can vary the flavorings as you want.
But I'm just going to use a little bit of vanilla.
But inside the vanilla you've got these amazing seeds.
And these are the prized ingredient, really.
So you take out the seeds like that.
Keep the vanilla pods because these are quite expensive.
They actually trade vanilla like gold.
So literally, keep these.
Pop them in a little bit of sugar like that and you can use it for vanilla sugar.
Now, this is starting to boil now.
So you can take the egg yolks and the sugar.
Give this a quick whisk up.
Now, the mixture over here is starting to boil.
So this moment in time we then take our boiling mixture and pop it straight into our egg yolks.
Mix this all in.
[gentle guitar music] ♪ ♪ So now what you need to do is keep your eye on it.
Because the thing about custard is you've got to take it to about 72 degrees.
If you boil it, it will split.
And you'll end up with scrambled eggs.
And there's no way of bringing it back, literally no way.
This mixture is starting to get a little bit thicker, starting to thicken up.
We grab our sieve.
Like that.
Now, you can tell when it's just perfect is that it just starts to curdle around the edge of the pan.
You see that.
It's nice and thick.
But it's not glow-in-the-dark fluorescent yellow custard.
It's proper custard.
Next, I'll turn my attention to the batter.
Now, the batter itself, we're then going to deep fry our fritters in our nice little batter.
So the batter itself is done with flour, a little bit of corn flour in there.
Touch of sugar.
We can sweeten that up.
There's two ways to sweeten it-- a bit of sugar or a touch of honey.
A little drizzle of Welsh honey.
That's going to go in.
Touch of cinnamon.
And then we can grab some cider.
And you can use our cider to flavor your batter.
We're just going to mix all this lot together to create our nice batter.
But that's what you want, really, that sort of nice batter, fish and chip batter.
That looks about right to me.
And then our apples.
We can then cut these into nice slices.
Now, you can use whatever apples you want, as long as they're British apples, of course.
You can even use Bramleys.
It's up to you.
And then just remove the little core out.
Pop that in there.
Then we take our piece of apples and chuck it into your batter.
And then we grab our nice fritters.
And we'll just deep fry these.
Make sure you deep fry them without too much batter on it, because you want that hole in the apple as well.
So when all your apples are in like that, just cook these for about three or four minutes.
So with these, once you get a nice bit of color on one side, just turn it over really like that.
Just keep checking them.
Really, just make sure the oil is not too hot.
Otherwise, the apples won't cook in the center.
So they're quite happily cooking away nicely.
Now, I thought I'd do this with a nice cider butter.
Touch of butter, a bit of icing sugar.
So I'm going to take my influence for this from Christmas, i.e.
brandy butter.
And we're going to make cider butter, so butter, icing sugar, and a little bit of cider.
I'm happy with these.
Look at these.
Take these out.
[gentle music] ♪ ♪ And then sprinkle with a bit of sugar, like classic fritters should be.
And then to plate this, just so happens I've got a nice little platter over here.
You can take your custard.
Nice bit of custard on the top.
You just pop your fritters on.
A dollop of cider butter.
We've got an amazing selection of people who make this show who said, you need to put apple blossom on it.
It's where apples come from.
When you've got apples on the trees, there's no blossom.
So I'm left with pansies.
So there they are, cider-infused apple fritters inside a custard, topped with pansies.
Pretty.
They look good.
Let's see how they taste.
BILL BLEASDALE: Look at that lovely butter.
Mm, delicious.
Let's have some custard too.
Wow, that's amazing.
Oh, you can really taste the cider.
JAMES MARTIN: I'd say they're a hit.
[gentle guitar music] I'm exploring magnificent Mid Wales with Michelin-starred chef Gareth Ward.
Are we in reverse or what?
Chef, I'm going to get out and push it.
JAMES MARTIN: He still keeps calling me chef.
Anyway, we've sampled some fine Welsh cider.
This is the nicest cider I've ever had.
Yeah, it's delicious.
JAMES MARTIN: And now Gareth is off to meet one of his suppliers.
Upper Bryntalch Farm is home to Ifor's Welsh Wagyu, a 100-strong cattle farm that produces Wagyu beef.
It's a family-run business and nephew Michael Humphreys is going to show him around.
- How are you doing, Gareth?
- How are you doing?
Are you OK?
Yeah, good.
Thank you.
Nice to see you.
Look at this.
What a place to meet.
MICHAEL HUMPHREYS: Yes, there's worse places.
GARETH WARD: There is indeed.
So, Wagyu, why Wagyu?
What makes it so unique?
So Wagyu are noted for their high levels of marbling.
They have higher concentrates of monounsaturated fats, which make them actually a healthier breed.
And they just taste great.
That's the be-all and end-all, really.
GARETH WARD: So how is the farming different?
Is it different with these animals?
MICHAEL HUMPHREYS: Yeah, so these differ from conventional cattle in the respect that we have to keep them for 30 months.
The longer you keep them, the better grade of marbling.
They're fed beer and massaged.
- Beer?
- Beer, yeah.
What a life.
And massage.
Everyone loves a bit of beer and a massage.
So the reasoning behind that, in Japan, historically, they were kept in quite small environments.
And they were massaged to-- Keep them moving, isn't it?
Yeah, improve muscle tone and fat distribution.
And they enjoy it as well.
GARETH WARD: Yeah.
So you're going to give me a-- give me a demonstration.
Let's go for a look.
Let's go.
This is Abramovich, our bull.
You give him nice, broad, long strokes down the side.
That looks amazing.
If you've got any spare time, you can always have a go on me if you want.
So, yeah, we just give them a nice scratch.
So the massaging bit sounds great, but the next bit, it sounds amazing.
You feed them beer and what's it all about?
So we feed them beer just to keep them nice and relaxed and calm.
So where's that done then?
Just down in the farmyard.
- Should we go and give a look?
- Yeah.
Awesome.
Let's go.
[gentle music] ♪ ♪ So this is the beer, then.
Yeah, as you can see-- This one here is already trying to get in there.
So what sort of beer is it then?
So it's Monty's Brewery.
They're three miles down the road.
We have the waste beer, so the bottom of the barrel.
We have a few others in their range, but I find that they prefer this.
GARETH WARD: This one's the one, is it?
MICHAEL HUMPHREYS: Yeah.
We just feed them a couple of pints every morning.
GARETH WARD: Right.
I mean, I think I should join them, really.
Well, funny you should say that, I thought you might ask.
Oh, wow, look at that.
So I brought you a cup.
Let's have a taste.
Lovely.
I can understand why they all love drinking that.
Yeah, this one especially.
GARETH WARD: Cheers, mate.
Thanks very much.
MICHAEL HUMPHREYS: Iechyd da.
GARETH WARD: Thank you.
JAMES MARTIN: Some chefs have all the luck.
And having seen those happy, healthy cows, I can't resist cooking some beef to create a tasty dish.
Now, a great piece of beef needs a great sauce.
And this is a fantastic recipe.
It uses marrow bone.
And I'm going to roast it and serve it with this amazing bit of Welsh Wagyu.
And this particular cut is quite unusual.
It's called a Denver cut.
It runs under the shoulder blade, the flat part of the shoulder blade.
And I'm just going to simply cook it and then serve it with a fantastic sauce.
So we're going to season it up with some salt and pepper first.
So get about a 10-ounce steak.
And you can see this beautiful marbling you get on particularly wagyu.
I've got a really hot pan here.
And then you use a combination of oil and butter.
So a little bit of oil.
The butter will give it a nice color.
The oil will take it to a higher temperature.
And as s as you get to that stage and the butter is foaming, then we add our steak straight in.
Nice hot pan.
Keep the temperature of the pan going and get that nice and hot.
Meanwhile, I'll just quickly wash my hands.
Now, the bone marrow itself, this is how you would buy it from the butchers.
Soak it overnight and then roast it in the oven.
Just plain and simple for about 40 minutes, 180 degrees.
And I've got one that I've got in here.
I'm going to use some of it for our sauce.
But what you can do, it makes a nice little garnish.
So you can take a couple of these.
I'm just going to simply top this with some pickled onions chopped up with a little bit of parsley.
But turn our attention to our steak.
You've got this lovely color.
You can see that when you turn this over, you get this gorgeous color with it.
Piece of steak like this no more than two to three minutes on both sides.
That's all you need.
I've got some parsley here, which I can chop up nice and fine.
Together with a little bit of pickled onion.
We take the whole lot and chop them all up together.
You see, while the steaks cooking, a lot of people would just panic at this point in time.
You just leave it.
Keep your eye on it, of course, but just leave it.
So I've got my nice little bit of pickled shallots and parsley.
You can top the bone marrow with a bit of mustard over the top.
And then we can sprinkle it with this.
But remember, this has already been cooked.
So all what we're going to do now is just warm it in the oven.
And for that, it only takes about five, six minutes.
Meanwhile, our steak looks pretty good.
[meat searing] You just take your nice little bit of butter and pop it over the top of the steak.
Take it out and just leave it to rest.
It's really important that you leave it to rest.
And meanwhile, we can concentrate on our sauce.
And for two steaks, two shallots.
Two cloves of garlic.
Chop these up as well.
Now, in the same pan that we cooked our steak in, a little knob of butter.
We've got all the nice flavor from the steak in the pan.
We can add our shallots and garlic.
Cook this for a couple of minutes.
♪ ♪ So once your onions and garlic have softened, we can then deglaze this.
A little bit of red wine.
It's a really good quality wine.
Whatever you put in the pan, you should put in the glass.
Rubbish wine, rubbish sauce.
And then I've got here some reduced stock.
You can buy this stuff nowadays.
It's not in its powdered form.
It's got to be this.
You can see already it's nice and thick.
We start off with a mixture like that and then we reduce it down by half.
Now what we need to do is just take the bone marrow out of this, because I'm going to add this to the sauce at the last minute.
So just go around with a knife and then you can use a spoon and then just push the bone marrow out, scrape it out.
And this will just enrich it.
It's a fantastic flavor in this.
A little bit of Dijon mustard.
Keep that pan going.
Keep reducing.
A little bit of Worcester sauce.
Just a little bit more chopped parsley.
Now, the French have a wonderful term.
It's called monter au beurre, and it's done with a lot of different sauces.
You take a little bit of butter and the butter enriches the sauce.
And it actually starts to thicken it.
You get a wonderful glaze from it as well.
So to cut through that richness, we add a touch of sherry vinegar.
But it must be sherry vinegar, not chip shop vinegar, sherry vinegar.
There's a big, big difference in flavor.
We can then add our bone marrow now.
And this starts to enrich in our sauce.
And of course, we've got our bone marrow that's in the oven.
Nice little bit of bone marrow.
We've got a wonderful steak.
I'll lift this out.
If you want to carve this up, carve it straight through.
Like that.
And then we've got our beautiful bone marrow sauce.
Over the top.
Finishing it off with a little bit of watercress.
Uses Welsh Wagyu.
Do not go and ruin it by putting some of that revolting horseradish all over it.
[country music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'm in Wales with my traveling companion and Michelin-starred chef, Gareth Ward.
JAMES MARTIN: So where are we now then?
Where is-- where is this?
I don't know.
I was hoping you'd tell me.
Well, you know where it is.
[laughter] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): We've been to a cider orchard high in the hills.
JAMES MARTIN: But the great thing about this it's not sweet, it's not sharp.
GARETH WARD: It's very well balanced.
Very well balanced but pure in terms of its flavor.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And Gareth's had a pint with a few of the locals.
Oh, lovely.
I can understand why they all love drinking that.
Yeah.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And now I'm heading down the road to taste a proper treat.
Now, Wales is famous for so many great places to eat.
And I'm en route now to another one.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Tyddyn Llan is a hidden gem in the Welsh countryside.
It's owned and run by husband-and-wife-team Bryan and Susan Webb, who have been working together for 27 years.
They took this place on when they moved from London 17 years ago.
How on Earth did you end up from London to where we are now?
SUSAN WEBB: Well, Bryan's Welsh, and so we used to come here when Bridget and Peter owned it as our little bolthole from London.
And we were up here and Bridget said, we're thinking of retiring.
We'd really love for you to take this place and knowing that we'd probably take care of it as much as they had.
Some fool lent us some money, and here we are 17 years later.
So how do you sustain it for so long working together?
SUSAN WEBB: I know.
Well, Bryan's my best friend.
Never take an argument home ever.
JAMES MARTIN: I mean, the Michelin plaque on the wall as well.
Michelin men all over the place.
SUSAN WEBB: That was a surprise.
I mean, it was so overwhelmed because I think with the Michelin, I don't think you go looking for stars.
You cook the food that you want to cook, and then if they like you, they award you a star.
And I think that's the way it goes.
Well, thanks very much for that.
Very welcome.
I better go take my seat then, hadn't I really?
I think you might, yeah.
OK.
[gentle music] ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN: Bryan prides himself on seasonal cooking with fresh, local produce.
And today, he's making one of his signature dishes, wild sea bass with laverbread beurre blanc.
I can't wait.
♪ ♪ Hi, James.
There you go.
I'll tell you what, that smells all right, doesn't it?
I hope so.
I've been cooking it for a long time.
This is one of your trademark dishes, is it?
That's one of my trademark-- that's me on a plate.
JAMES MARTIN: That's you on a plate.
BRYAN WEBB: That's wild bass with laverbread butter sauce.
I know you like butter.
Classic beurre blanc, basically.
Some new potatoes and some samphire.
JAMES MARTIN: The best sauces I've ever tasted in my life are by three chefs.
This is one of them.
Thank you.
John Williams at the Ritz is the other one.
BRYAN WEBB: I agree with that.
And Pierre Koffmann is the other one.
Well, that sounds a good threesome.
Thank you.
JAMES MARTIN: A beurre blanc is a classic butter sauce.
And it's either right or it's wrong.
It's the acidity.
It's the consistency.
It's the seasoning.
It's not an easy thing to get right.
And you start putting a bit of laverbread in there.
Well, when you've been doing it for 44 years, you should be able to get it right.
I've got 16 more years then, have I?
I mean, being here must be extra special in terms of the produce.
You are surrounded by some amazing stuff.
Yeah, we've got fantastic beef, lamb.
The laverbread, that's obviously very Welsh, the seaweed from the coast.
This is fabulous, absolutely fabulous.
And what a great place you've got.
And congratulations, a shiny Michelin star.
BRYAN WEBB: Yeah, thank you very much.
What was that like when you got the phone call for that one?
I think I was in the car and I went around the roundabout about four times.
Yes, I'm very proud of it.
Well, I would say cheers, but you've got to go back to the kitchen.
So I want to say thank you.
- No problem.
Thank you very much.
- I'm looking forward to pud.
OK.
Thank you.
- I'll see you in a bit.
Do you know what, I love food like this.
It's just so, so nice.
♪ ♪ I don't normally do this, but-- [spoon scraping] When you know that something's good on the plate, you don't want to leave anything.
There you go.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): What an absolute treat.
That was so delicious.
I can't resist cooking a fish dish of my own.
Now, Bryan's the master at cooking classics.
And this is a real classic, skate with beurre noisette.
It's a fish that's often underused.
Chefs love it because it's really simple to cook, tastes amazing.
And it's got a simple bone running right through the center.
It's not really a bone, it's more like a cartilage.
But it's a beautiful, beautiful piece of fish that we can simply cook.
So for that, use a little bit of flour.
Just dust it over the top.
Add some salt and pepper.
A bit of seasoning.
And then just lightly flour it on both sides.
Now, what the flour will do is just crisp it up a little bit, but it will protect the flesh.
Then you start it off in veg oil.
The butter is the sauce bit.
It's not the cooking vessel for the fish.
You start in oil first.
Get the pan nice and hot and pop that in there.
The flour will help the color as well.
While that's cooking away nicely, just wash your hands.
[fish sizzling] [upbeat music] ♪ ♪ You can actually see them cooking halfway up the side as well, which is exactly what we were looking for.
You can then turn this over.
[fish sizzling] ♪ ♪ And then take the entire lot and pop it in the oven.
Now, these are quite thin.
So about 180 degrees, these are going to take about three to four minutes.
While that's happening, we can get our pan on the stove.
Get it heated up ready for our sauce.
So the first thing we're going to do is grab our shallots.
And for that, we want to finely dice them.
The reason why I use shallot is they're much more milder in flavor than onions.
And you make sure they're nice and fine.
Now, I've had variants of beurre noisette before, some of which haven't got shallot in.
But this is the classic way that I was always taught by a French chef in London.
You do the same thing with the parsley.
Get it nice and finely chopped.
But if you master the art of simple and great sauces, you're almost there.
You're relying on the quality of the ingredients, the fish or the meat to go with it.
We can then turn our attention to our lemon.
All I'm going to do is basically segment the lemon.
And the way to segment the lemon is just follow the edge, the little white pith that goes with it.
Just follow that with a knife.
So the idea is when you finish off taking the peel off, it's supposed to look like a lemon, not like a square.
Lose that.
And then either side of the little white lines go in with your knife and flick out the segments like that.
It's important not to get the little seeds in there as well.
So look, we've got a nice little bit of lemon, plus an extra little bit of lemon as well to go with it.
All you've got to do, though, is you've got to get this pan really hot.
Our fish can then come out because this is ready.
We can pop that straight on the plate as well as the sauce is going to be that quick.
Isn't that magical?
Just a lovely little simple bit of fish.
Meanwhile, a very, very hot pan.
You need to get this really hot.
Now, if you're watching this while you're going at the gym, turn the machine a bit higher because this is a classic beurre blanc, which is butter.
[butter sizzling] Steaming, steaming hot pan.
Straightaway you can see it going nut brown.
It's the nut-brown color that we want.
It's not burnt.
It's brown.
It's very, very important, and there is a difference.
As it starts to foam up like that, that's when we take it off the heat.
We can add our shallots in there as well.
We can then put it back on the heat.
This is the key to cooking great sauces.
I love doing this Sure, we can do all the fancy stuff, but it's all about this.
So nut brown butter.
In we go with the capers.
In we go with the parsley and then the lemon juice.
Right at the last minute, we put the lemon segments.
Then turn the heat off.
You get this amazing flavor from this.
Bit of black pepper.
And you're done.
Take this brown butter sauce over the top of the fish.
If you want to garnish it with anything, all it needs is a little bit of watercress.
And there you have it.
It is a real true classic but one that should be on every single menu.
In fact, that is going on my menu tonight.
It's brilliant.
[gentle music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'm in Mid Wales with a Michelin-starred chef who also happens to be my buddy, Gareth Ward.
See, everybody needs a Mini in their life.
I think if you're going to donate one to me, I'll have one.
I'll look after it for you.
Yeah, I bet you will, yeah.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): There's so much to see here.
So we're splitting up again.
I'm going to take in some of the finest scenery Wales has to offer with my bestest of best mates, Cooper.
It's chilled out, innit, Coops?
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): While I treat Gareth to a sightseeing trip he won't forget in a hurry.
Yes, Gareth is going for a hair-raising spin with none other than rally champion Jade Paveley.
OK, so I'm a teeny bit jealous.
GARETH WARD: Jade.
JADE PAVELEY: Hi.
- Lovely to meet you.
Lovely to meet you as well.
What has James done to me?
Yeah, so, have you done this before?
I've never done this before, no.
Right.
OK, so this is a 300 brake horsepower Jaguar F-Type rally car.
There's only two of them in the world, so.
It can be quite hairy at times.
It's very, very slippy, especially today.
It's a bit like driving on ice.
No way.
JADE PAVELEY: Yeah.
GARETH WARD: I can't wait for you to take me out in it.
It's going to be insane.
Let's do it.
Come on, this way.
Ready to go?
GARETH WARD: Ready to go.
3, 2, 1.
[engine roaring] [energetic music] Whoa!
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Now 26, Jade started competing at the tender age of just 15.
[laughs] And in 2018, was third in the Welsh tarmac championship.
[cheers, laughs] And while Gareth clings on for dear life, Cooper is taking me for a much more gentle spin down the road.
Heel.
They do say a man's best friend is a dog, and it's easy to see why really.
I always wanted a dog.
It's a unique bond, is having a dog.
And this one's a special one.
[soft music] Now, you're probably wondering why I'm dressed like this.
Well, this is for a reason.
This is a training jacket, really.
Because in here, in my back pocket is you've got different shapes, different size dummies.
And then these are launched using this thing.
You put a cartridge in here and fire it off.
And it goes to different lengths.
It can go up to 300 yards so probably right down to the end of that road there.
And this is to simulate game, i.e your lunch, be it a pheasant, partridge, rabbit in the wood.
And it's attracted not by the animal or the fur or anything else, but by the scent, the gunpowder from it.
And that requires years and years of practice.
Because when he gets it, they then have to bring it back but very, very carefully in their mouths so it doesn't get broken.
So when it's cooked, it tastes really good.
Right, now it's my turn to have a bit of fun.
You ready, Coops?
[shot fired] Go, boy!
[whistle blows] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Trust me, it's taken years to train Cooper to do this.
But it's time well spent out of the kitchen.
Good lad.
Good lad.
The whole point about training a dog is that this is the reward.
Not treats, not biscuits, this.
Affection.
And he likes it, don't you?
Good lad.
You're mad, but you're good.
I suppose we'd better see how Gareth's getting on.
[upbeat music] Hold on, wahey!
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Ow, I bet that hurt.
Now, this track at Alwen Forest is used for the British GB Rally Championships.
[laughs, cheers] It's tricky to navigate, so not for the faint hearted.
[engine roaring] [upbeat music] ♪ ♪ [coughing] Bit dusty, chef.
You look a bit snug in there Oh, I'm a bit-- I'm very snug.
What was it like as co-driver?
- It was amazing.
- Were you squealing a bit?
- A little bit.
- I'm a little bit deaf now.
But it's all fine.
JAMES MARTIN: You're a little bit deaf.
Your ears are aching.
I'm like a sardine.
Now I know what it feels like.
- You enjoyed it?
- I loved it, mate.
Thank you very much.
JAMES MARTIN: Anyway, I'll leave you for about four hours to get out.
Oh, cheers, chef.
Thanks for that.
You can always give me a hand.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Do you know what, I'll leave you to it.
I've got some cooking to do, and I've found the perfect place for my mobile kitchen.
It's times like this when you want to burst into song, really.
The hills are alive.
Well, actually, they're not alive.
They're actually over here on a table.
Now, for my final dish, this is going to be fabulous.
It's a bacon and cockle Welsh rarebit.
And I'm going to utilize this bacon.
Look at this, proper bacon.
I haven't seen this since I was a young kid.
You've got the belly, which is what you want here and then the back, which is what you want here.
We're just going to take our bacon and just pop it in our dish.
With a little bit of butter.
Just a touch.
Just a few bits of butter.
I'm going to take the bacon and pop it into the oven.
Because everybody who cooks on the side of a Welsh hill has got an oven like this on an old barrel in an apple orchard.
While that's happening, turn my attention to the rarebit.
The whole point about rarebit is great quality Welsh cheese.
Now, because of this stuff, this, this stuff here, you have amazing dairy and pasture around here.
Because of that, this, you have amazing cheese.
Then what I'm going to do is grab our cheese and grate this.
The thing about Welsh rarebit, you can make it in advance.
You don't need to make it as and when you want it, because this in the fridge is amazing.
It's a nice little brunch dish, a little bit of breakfast.
Lose this out of the way.
Now, pop our cheese into our pan.
What you can do is you flavor this.
I'm going to use a touch of my beer.
Only a little bit because this is good beer.
We're going to supplement the rest with a bit of milk.
Just a touch your milk.
And then, really, to give this a nice kick, you've got some Worcester sauce.
A bit of Tabasco, as hot as you want.
And then English mustard, one of the few times, really, I actually use English mustard.
And then on the heat.
Now, the key to a rarebit is whatever you do, don't boil it.
Because otherwise, the fats from the cheese separate.
And you'll end up with this gooey mess, this split mixture that looks like a separated dressing, really, where the fats actually separate from the cheese.
So while that's happening, a bit of salt and pepper, Black pepper, a pinch of salt.
So we're nearly there with this cheese.
Now, so often with Welsh rarebit you can have this on toast.
And sure enough, you can.
But literally, if you just pop this on toast, it's just going to fall off.
So what you do is you thicken this up slightly.
You just need a little bit of flour, just some plain flour.
And as it starts to heat up but not boil, this is when we add a little bit of flour.
Now, just enough to hold this together.
So keep it on the heat.
So just mix this all together.
You can see now it's just nicely starting to thicken up like that.
Perfect.
Now, because I'm going to put this back in the oven just to color nicely, I'm going to flavor this with some eggs.
Now, you can either use whole eggs or egg yolks.
It's entirely up to you.
[upbeat music] Probably three in this.
And then mix the egg yolks in.
You can have a quick taste.
Just tastes amazing.
But we've got our bacon.
Oh!
Look at that.
And then I'm going to use some cockles.
Look, you've got some amazing cockles.
And we can take this and pour our cheese over the top.
And then simply take the whole lot and put it back in the oven.
Now, if it's hot like this, a grill at home would be ideal.
On a grassy knoll, this is as good as it gets.
I'm going to leave that to cook for about five minutes, which gives us enough time to make our chutney.
Yes, I'm actually going to do chutney with this because this is fabulous.
Starts off in the pan just with some sugar.
And what you want to do is caramelize the sugar.
The same time as caramelizing the sugar, you add your sultanas because you want these to puff up.
Now, while that's caramelizing in there, I can take a little bit of shallot and chop this up.
But this is the boring bit of TV.
So while I'm doing that, the director will cut to a nice shot of countryside.
I'll see you in a bit.
[gentle music] ♪ ♪ So you can see now they start to caramelize in here.
They start to toffee up.
A bit of white wine vinegar.
In the pan.
Take your tomatoes, your onions, a bit of tarragon.
Just a touch.
Salt, pepper.
Cook this for about two or three minutes.
So meanwhile-- ♪ ♪ Cheers to me!
You wouldn't believe this.
I was-- 10 minutes ago, I was reading the instruction kit of how to use that.
Look at that.
Nice.
Now, your chutney should be cooked as the tomatoes start to soften up.
But that with a bit of white wine vinegar is not bad.
Grab myself a spoon.
And just take a nice dollop of chutney.
Now, you can thicken this up if you want.
Cook it for a little bit longer.
But is there any need really?
Because when you've got it with this, you want all the nice fresh flavors with the cockles, the bacon, the nice sweet, the nice sour of the chutney.
There is no finer dish on a hillside in Wales right at this moment in time than that.
I'm quite happy with that.
I don't normally do this on TV, but-- ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And there is my decadent take on a Welsh rarebit.
A feast in a pan.
[upbeat music] What a way to finish an incredible trip with the great Michelin-starred chef Gareth Ward.
So what an amazing part of the world you live in.
It's incredible, isn't it?
Yeah, very lucky.
And we've only just seen a snippet of it.
But I mean, you just feel like there's so much more to explore.
I mean, the Wagyu beef is amazing.
GARETH WARD: Wagyu beef is insane.
For me, it's the best beef in the world.
I think it's incredible.
If you've got any spare time, mate, you can always just have a go on me, if you want.
The cider.
Cider was unreal, wasn't it?
I mean, wow, the flavor was incredible.
You get the sweetness.
You get the sharpness.
But it's like really good wine.
You're the new brigade, but you've got the old brigade as well.
Bryan's still behind the stove, still cooking.
Very classic, very-- GARETH WARD: Very honest.
Very honest and very proper food, I was going to say.
This is one of your trademark dishes.
That's one of my trademark-- that's me on a plate, that is.
JAMES MARTIN: That's you on a plate.
This whole area is a culinary delight.
I'll be back for more.
[laughter] Oh.
♪ ♪ [theme music] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

New Episode- Food
Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television
Transform home cooking with the editors of Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine.



New Episode







Support for PBS provided by:
