
Morocco: The Gateway to Africa - The North
Season 7 Episode 6 | 24m 38sVideo has Closed Captions
Three friends and a Film Director and Producer, meet in Casablanca to travel the length of Moroco.
The three friends and a Film Director and Producer, meet in Casablanca to travel the length of Morocco.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Music Voyager is a local public television program presented by WLIW PBS

Morocco: The Gateway to Africa - The North
Season 7 Episode 6 | 24m 38sVideo has Closed Captions
The three friends and a Film Director and Producer, meet in Casablanca to travel the length of Morocco.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorshipNarrator: It's a doorway into one of the most exotic continents on earth.
From the shoreline of the Atlantic Ocean to the peaks of the high Atlas Mountains and into the dunes of the Sahara.
The landscape is just a backdrop against one of the most diverse countries in all of Africa.
[ Camera shutter clicks ] With its blend of cultures, languages, religion and cuisine.
It's an oasis of diverse customs and traditions that have heavily influenced this part of the world for centuries.
♪♪♪ Yet it's the heartbeat of this country's traditions and customs that can be found in the faith and music of the people.
This is the gateway to Africa.
This is Morocco.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Morocco's history stretches back more than a millennium, from the Amazigh dynasty more than a thousand years ago, up to its restoration as a sovereign nation from the French protectorate, Morocco is an exotic country filled with culture and tradition.
And at the heart of this nation's cultural heritage is her music.
To explore the music of Morocco would be a voyage unlike any other.
♪♪♪ Journeying across Morocco and visiting 10 cities over 15 days, these three friends will travel through the heart of this exotic country.
I'm going to show you Morocco in style.
Nouamane Lahlou is a Moroccan superstar singer, songwriter and producer.
Hassan Hakmoun is a master Gnawa musician who has performed with many international artists, including Peter Gabriel.
Laurent Le Gall is a documentary filmmaker looking for his next great story to tell.
[ Camera shutter clicks ] The history of Morocco's music continues to weave threads into the fabric of today's melodies.
It's what these three friends hope to explore on their journey across the northern part of Morocco.
Their voyage begins in Morocco's largest city, Casablanca.
The city is a remarkable blend of modern architecture with old world charm, a unique fusion of 21st century life and Islamic heritage.
It's a thriving, pulsing center of culture and history.
A perfect representation of Morocco's commitment to heritage and tradition can be found in Casablanca at one of the largest and most exquisite mosques were built.
Built along the Atlantic Ocean, This is the Hassan II mosque.
It's beautiful, it's one of the largest in the world and it's named after the current king's father.
But we are here on the water.
We're on the water.
We're on the water.
It's built on the water.
And even when you're praying, you're praying, you see the water.
It's the third biggest mosque in the world and the highest minaret in the world.
Started in 1986 until 1994.
Day and night, 24 hours a day.
But what -- what's what is fantastic for me is that every single piece here has been made by hand.
No machine has worked in the whole mosque.
And this wood ceiling opens in the summer.
♪♪♪ One of the beautiful things I like most about Casablanca is the Hassan II Mosque.
It's one of the best places in Morocco to visit.
And the most beautiful thing about this mosque is that all the Moroccan have participated in the building of it by giving a lot of money.
People from Casablanca are very proud of this site here in Morocco.
♪♪♪ Bloody as in Boulder.
He.
Narrator: One man who had a profound influence on today's music in Morocco resides here in Casablanca.
Abdelwahab Doukkali.
His penthouse high above the city, displays his numerous music awards from his career, including medals from Pope John Paul II and Pope Benedict XVI.
He invites the three friends over where they ask about his musical influences.
[ Speaking in native language ] Lahlou: When I first started getting in love with art in general and in music in particular, was Master Mohamed Abdel Wahab, my idol.
[ Speaking in native language ] I tried at the beginning to sing and compose all the feelings of the people, sad things about the things that they cannot express themselves.
I try to put all the subjects in my songs to be very close to these people.
Is that right?
Is that right?
Hakmoun: Yes, completely.
Why don't you -- Why don't you take it?
Yeah.
I mean, what he's what he's doing is actually writing his music through how the people feel in life so he can connect with their problems and what they're going through in life.
And that's how he connects with the people, singing their feeling and their problems.
And today we -- [ Speaking in native language ] So what he's trying to say that what's happening today and the musicians today, the kids, the new generations they are doing the music today that you hear, he already started doing that in 1970s, you know, started doing that.
And he have done it.
And for him, you know, and through my eyes and what he's seeing, it's amazing to see 50, 60 years it just arrived what what he already done that for the people.
[ Rapping in native language ] ♪♪♪ Narrator: Another artist whose music includes messages for the people of Morocco is Don Bigg.
He is one of the hottest rap artists in the country, and he is finishing his latest track, a song dedicated to his son.
[ Rapping in native language ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ [ Singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ He takes the friends around the corner to a little restaurant called Zayn?
We are in the middle of traditional hood called [speaks native language] and this is Zayn's place.
In my personal view, this is the best place you can be and must have thing is the tea because we are in a traditional restaurant.
So you drink tea after every lunch, every meal, every...?
-All day long.
-All day long.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
After all, within.
[ Laughter ] [ Speaking native language ] Okay.
But in your song, I like one thing.
When you was talking about school to your kids.
The most important thing is the is to study.
Even if you're an artist, you need to get some knowledge.
-Yes.
-Some background.
It helps.
Education is very.
Important.
Yeah, it's definitely the most important thing in life.
Yeah.
This is what it's all about in Morocco.
So it was all about -- Talking about education.
You are speaking a very good English.
Where did you learn?
It's very well, very well.
Well, thanks to MTV.
[ Laughter ] [ Camera shutter clicking ] ♪♪♪ [ Speaking native language ] [ Laughter ] ♪♪♪ [ Man calling in native language over loudspeaker ] Narrator: The northern part of Morocco can be divided in two.
The side that borders the Atlantic Ocean and the side that meets the Mediterranean Sea.
And in between is the next stop on this voyage.
Le Gall: This is Tangier.
To the west, the Atlantic Ocean.
To the east, the Mediterranean.
Behind me, I can see Spain.
And in front of me, this is the gateway to Africa.
♪♪♪ Narrator: Throughout Morocco's history, Tangier has been the entrance into this amazing country.
The city's origins date back to 500 AD.
Over the centuries, the Romans, Arabs, French and many other countries have all controlled Tangier in some way or another before it was restored to Morocco in 1956.
Le Gall: It seems that Tangier changed a lot.
Actually the change is thanks to our King Mohammed VI with all his huge efforts.
The city seems modern, more modern.
Yes, yes.
Absolutely, yes.
Laurent meets with Kaoutar Berrani, one of the most popular singers in Morocco.
I'm graduated from the Higher International Institute of Tourism of Tangier, and I used to live here for like five years.
And my hometown is actually -- it's actually known for its different culture.
The Amazigh culture.
The Amazigh?
Amazigh?
Yes.
The twist in the Amazigh culture is we have, like, our special language, which is [speaks native language].
[Speaks native language].
Yes.
You're good at that.
Yes, absolutely.
We have special language, and it's considered as the -- as one of the official languages in Morocco.
Me, as a Moroccan Amazigh, of course, I speak dialect Moroccan and I speak Amazigh.
And we have also like different traditions, different traditional clothes, jewelries.
So it means you speak, you you sing in Amazighian language.
Yes.
With different words, different language, different spirits and different instruments.
I mean, we use like basic instruments, not a lot of these new ones.
♪♪♪ Kaoutar's music is rooted in the Amazigh style, but she has recently begun to explore more modern arrangements, [ Singing in native language ] Such as in her latest single, "Game Over."
♪♪♪ [ Singing in native language ] Intrigued, Laurent asked Kaoutar to show him some examples of Amazigh culture.
They head down the street to a local shop.
I'm going to show you carpet with a Amazigh twist.
So...
So this one, for example?
This one, for example.
It's pure, pure Amazigh.
You can see it's beautiful.
Why?
Because of this little decoration, for example.
It's handmade.
Yeah?
Is it wool?
It's wool.
Yes.
It's beautiful.
Le Gall: This shop is amazing.
Can you see this beautiful piece of art?
This is a mirror, actually.
You can open it.
Oh, I see.
Oh, it's very nice.
The shape is Amazigh, actually.
The shape is very cool.
It's very, very new.
Yes.
It's new to you, but it's not new to us.
I know.
Because I'm used to it.
Yes.
There is a twist.
Amazigh twist in this mirror.
How would you say in Amazighian language it's beautiful, it's splendid?
[ Speaking in native language ] It's long.
It's long, but it's beautiful.
[ Singing in native language ] Narrator: As night falls, the city comes to life.
Kaoutar takes Laurent to one of the most popular places in all of Tangier.
It's called [speaks native language], which means that people a long time ago used to come here to take rest and to take breath again.
The view is spectacular.
The view is wonderful.
Really wonderful.
♪♪♪ Do you know a good place where we can eat tonight?
Yeah, I think if you want to eat something good here, we can go there.
Yeah.
[Indistinct] is a friend of Kaoutar and helps Laurent find a late night meal.
They're close to the city's Medina, one of the oldest parts of Tangier and the best places to get authentic Moroccan cuisine.
The bread, it's something that is super important.
Very important.
In Moroccan cuisine?
It's like rice in China.
Oh, yeah?
Yeah, course.
Because we use that with everything.
Too dip.
Yeah, too dip dishes.
We have a dish, and then we eat with bread.
It's like our spoon.
It's our spoon.
[ Conversing in native language ] Oh, my gosh.
So there is different kinds of fish here.
So you have your brochette.
Brochette is chicken or beef skewers, seasoned with herbs and spices and usually grilled.
Mmm.
[ Indistinct ] Everything is flavored.
Yeah.
Even, you know, the fish are the specialized.
Spicy.
Yeah, a little.
A little bit of spice.
How is your brochette?
It's great.
It's great?
You can taste it.
Yeah?
Is it a chicken?
Yeah, it is.
You know, and chicken, and you put a little bit of chicken in the harissa.
So we say harissa, How do you say harissa?
Harissa.
Harissa is a very strong spicy sauce.
Yeah.
[ Coughs ] Oh, my God.
Oh, this one is really [coughs] really spicy.
So when you -- when you order food in Morocco, it's not little.
You have fries, you have, like, the fish, you have the little olives.
You're talking about quality?
Yes.
Yeah, it's a big quantity.
We eat a lot.
The fish?
Yeah.
[ Indistinct ] It's very good.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ The Rif Mountains are Morocco's northernmost mountain range.
The highest peak rises over 2,000 meters above sea level.
They are home to the Amazigh people.
And nestled at the feet of these mountains is a city that will lure Laurent and his friends back in time.
Le Gall: We are on our way to Chefchaouen.
People tell me it's the jewel of the Rif Mountains.
Narrator: As they approach the city, dusk descends on the Medina... ♪♪♪ ...where the [indistinct] ensemble brings the town to life.
[ Singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ This is a traditional style of music called [speaks native language].
They are performing outside of the Casbah among the food vendors and shops.
♪♪♪ They are most famous for the tea tray dance, which is performed by one of the musicians.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ I woke up early this morning because I wanted to hear the first prayer of the day.
It's a very strange atmosphere.
The city is still asleep.
[ Man calling on loudspeaker ] That's it.
It's time.
5:55.
It's amazing.
[ Calling continues ] ♪♪♪ Narrator: As the dawn illuminates the Medina, Laurent explores the narrow side streets.
It's easy to get lost in this picturesque city.
[ Camera shutter clicking ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ Nouamane joins Laurent to show him around the Medina.
This is just showing the blue city, the jewel of the Rif Mountain built in the late 15th century by Mulay Ali Ben Rachid, who came from Andalusia within the Moorish civilization.
And since then, nothing has changed.
The city is always peaceful, blue, clean.
So we call that [speaks native language].
[Speaks native language] Blue.
Blue, [speaks native language] Blue, [speaks native language] Chefchaouen's Medina is one of the most beautiful in all of Morocco.
It has maintained its old world charm for over 700 years and is celebrated for its blue streets.
This house was built in 1471, from 1471 to 1511.
And the thing is, nothing has changed since that time.
Everything since then is the same.
The houses, the street.
So what is the story behind the blue?
It's actually, I think -- I asked and they told me that this is the color they used to have back in Moorish, Andalusia back in 1471.
So they tried to make like a copy of what they had -- they used to have in Andalusia.
And but it's like it's so clean everywhere.
They take good care of the city.
It's in the mind of the people here.
Each month you find the women's of the neighborhood getting together, buying this inexpensive paint, putting the powder and painting the walls and painting ground and painting so as the city will remain always very clean.
The idea of a laundromat is very different here.
You wash your clothes in paradise.
Narrator: Like his daughter, Radia, Chefchaouen has become a muse for Nouamane's song writing.
[ Both singing in native language ] [ Camera shutter clicking ] ♪♪♪ Le Gall: Nouamane is really popular.
Everywhere we go, people want a photo with him, like that.
♪♪♪ So, Nouamane, you're recognized on every corner of the street.
And you're going to see that I'm recognized in every corner of Morocco.
[ Laughs ] [ Camera shutter clicks ] The main kind of music in this whole region, Chefchaouen and the region in Chefchaouen is Hadra.
Hadra, it's an orchestra of women.
It's an Andalusian heritage, and it's pure Sufi, love with God.
[ Singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ I won't be long.
And they have a very special scale around this area called [speaks native language].
[ Vocalizing ] It's a kind of tune.
So I took this scale, and out of it, I did my song.
[ Singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ I did these songs, I thought, as I told you in 2006, I think 2005, called [speaks native language] Since then it started to be the official song of the city.
And when I had the 70,000 people public, I just start singing.
Then I quit, and the rest of 70,000?
[ Singing in native language ] Even the schools.
If we have time, we can go see a school and you see all the kids singing the song.
So you think a song can change the world?
Indeed.
♪♪♪ Narrator: Nouamane and Hassan and their families head to a local school to surprise the children.
[ Cheering ] [ Children singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Here, the traditions and music of the past continue to inspire the artisans of today.
For Laurent, Nouamane and Hassan, this journey through the northern part of Morocco has given them a new perspective on the future of music in one of the most diverse countries in the world.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪
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