
Morocco: The Heart of Morocco - The Middle
Season 7 Episode 7 | 25m 12sVideo has Closed Captions
From the ancient city, the medina in Fes we learn of the history and music.
From the ancient city, the medina in Fes we learn how the history and music intertwine to bring out the depth of culture extremely rich and diverse.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Music Voyager is a local public television program presented by WLIW PBS

Morocco: The Heart of Morocco - The Middle
Season 7 Episode 7 | 25m 12sVideo has Closed Captions
From the ancient city, the medina in Fes we learn how the history and music intertwine to bring out the depth of culture extremely rich and diverse.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorshipEdgar: On the northern edge of Africa, dividing the coastal plains and Saharan Basin stand the snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains.
♪♪♪ These mountains are one of the major reasons that the Sahara is known as the largest hot desert on Earth.
♪♪♪ Mighty and majestic, cutting right through the heart of one of Africa's most exotic countries.
These mountains have had a major influence on the civilizations that have thrived in and around them.
♪♪♪ But they are also why the country of Morocco has some of Africa's most beautiful landscape and geography.
♪♪♪ But it's the people, the music, and their history that all blend together to create the natural wonder and stunning beauty that is the heart of Morocco.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Forged over millions of years, the peaks of the Atlas Mountain range rise in the southwest territory of Morocco and stretch to the northeast region.
It's this massive mountain range, more than 2,000 kilometers in length, that separates the fertile green lands along the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea from the dry and always shifting sands of the Sahara.
[ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicks ] Laurent Le Gall, a documentary filmmaker and his friends, Nouamane Lahlou, a superstar singer, songwriter and producer, and Hassan Hakmoun, a master Gnawa musician, are heading into the most sweeping and diverse part of Morocco.
♪♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ This is Fes, one of Morocco's largest cities.
Seated in a valley surrounded by beautiful peaks on the north side of the Atlas Mountains, it was once the capital of the Moroccan kingdom.
This enchanting city can be viewed through two different lenses -- the modern, urban and sophisticated metropolis, lush and green, confident and enlightened.
The other, more well-known area of Fes... is the Medina.
♪♪♪ Called Fes el Bali, this is one of the original sections of the city.
Over the last millennium, Fes has been called by some the Athens of Africa.
Others have called it the Mecca of the West.
Built in 789 AD, Fes has played many important roles in Morocco's history, including her independence.
This is the first manifest in Morocco signed back in 11th, January 1944, to ask for the independence of Morocco sent to the French government.
Why did it happen in Fes?
Because it was signed in Fes, and guess what?
It didn't happen here.
It happened in this house.
Nouamane grew up here.
He and Laurent venture into the Medina.
This is one of the 14 gates surrounding the Medina of Fes called the Blue Gate, also called the Bab Bou Jeloud or Military Gate.
Medinas like this were fortified to protect the citizens from invading armies.
...blue from outside and green from the other side, and blue refers to astrology and the sky.
Ah.
The color of the sky, yeah.
Magnifique.
Yeah.
♪♪♪ [ Men singing in native language ] The narrow streets and cobblestone roads of the Medina are lively and active.
Spices, incense, clothing, and food have been bought and sold inside these walls for over 1,200 years.
Oh, look at that.
You know what's that?
No.
It's a clock back from the 14th century.
A clock.
Yes.
You can see the woods.
There are 12 pieces related to the 12 numbers of the clock.
Okay.
Whenever the sun touches one of them, it's 1:00 PM, 2:00 PM, 3:00 PM, and then again, it's called Madrasa al Bou Inania, probably one of the oldest clocks in the world.
And oldest wood as well because it's like -- The wood is original from the 14th century.
Very important to the monument in Fes.
[ Men singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ Within this ancient city are several historical landmarks that Nouamane shows his friend.
This is the house of the first sociologist and historian in the world called Ibn Khaldun.
So a very, very, very long time ago.
14th century.
14th century.
Yeah.
Okay, a long time.
So this fountain here and this place here is called Fountain in Place of Nejjarine, dated to 17th century.
And you see, you know, this place here was also a social place where people -- and they all get to know each other and get in -- A little café... And girls that want be to married dress well and come here so as men can see them and boys can see them and they getting married.
Did it happen to you?
No, not to me.
[ Chuckles ] ♪♪♪ Well, this is Fes.
This is the oldest university in the world.
It's a mosque also called Al-Qarawiyyin.
Built in 828 by Fatima al-Fihri, coming from Tunisia.
At that time, used to teach here medicine, sociology, mathematics at the ninth century.
And when I say the oldest in the world, it's older than Oxford, older than Sorbonne, the oldest university on the globe.
So this is the monument of Fes.
But we cannot go inside?
We cannot go inside because it's not allowed for non-Muslim.
I understand.
I love Fes because of tradition, customs, and elegance.
So Fes is the intellectual capital.
Of course it is the handicraft capital because of the tannery, the oldest tannery, and are the best artisans in Morocco.
Edgar: The history of tanning leather in Fes stretches back more than a thousand years.
Numerous stone vessels filled with a vast range of dyes and various liquids are spread out like a tray of watercolors.
This process, utilizing natural ingredients such as limestone and vegetables, has been used since the 11th century.
The magic and charm of Fes has caught Laurent's attention.
The look and feel of the Medina, with its history and culture, provide a stunning backdrop for a possible documentary.
[ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ [ Speaking French ] Edgar: Laurent's ancestry certainly comes in handy while visiting Morocco... [ Both speaking French ] ...as French is one of the major languages spoken throughout the country.
Clothes for men.
Is that that direction?
Yeah, in this direction.
It's easy.
Yeah, okay.
I think this one is really nice.
So how much would it be for that?
Give 50 dirham and I'll give a small gift for you.
Oh, that's okay.
Okay, all right.
Okay, thank you very much.
You're welcome.
What did you buy?
Look at that.
Very nice.
What did you buy?
Beautiful, no?
Very beautiful.
And what's that?
It's a scarf.
Palestinian.
Okay.
[ Laughs ] [ Men singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ [ Hammers pounding ] This is what we call the Brass Square.
Yeah.
And it's very famous in Fes, this square here.
And this...
The two friends make their way deeper into the Medina.
The sounds of brass and copper being forged by hand fills the air.
♪♪♪ Not just known for its handcrafted goods, Fes is also renowned for its food.
The cooking is really the best in Morocco.
It's really spectacular.
Edgar: Nourredine, who works at the hotel where Laurent and the friends are staying, accompanies Laurent into the souk.
It's the market within the Medina.
And here you can find everything you want.
Everything you need, everything you want.
This is the market we can find the meat, the vegetables.
All, all things, you will find it here.
The goal is to buy the necessary fresh ingredients to make a classic tajine dish.
I love -- I love those black ones.
Is it possible -- Yeah, yeah.
Yes?
Yeah, we use them for dinner.
Because they are so tasty.
♪♪♪ In Morocco, it is still customary for men to go into the souk and purchase the fresh ingredients for cooking... and for the women to prepare and cook the tajine.
The name comes from the clay pot the ingredients are slowly cooked and served in.
Mm, this is lamb.
Very tender.
Very juicy.
It's gamey, it's like, mm.
It's an enchantment.
[ Woman singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ Edgar: The day comes to a close with a private concert by television superstar and musician Majda Yahyaoui on the rooftop overlooking Fes.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Having explored Fes, the friends continue on their voyage.
♪♪♪ The friends head into the mountains.
The landscape of Morocco is so diverse.
It's absolutely beautiful.
♪♪♪ Edgar: The Mid Atlas Mountain range, which runs through the very heart of the countryside, is one reason for Morocco's diverse and exotic landscape.
As the friends and their families travel into the mountains, they find a region that is lush and vibrant.
We're going to go through Khenifra.
Khenifra is in the Mid Atlas, and we use what we call Ahidus.
It's a style of life, dancing men and women playing drums and dancing and moving.
[ Performers chanting and drumming ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Hakmoun: We are in the countryside, one miles above the sea level.
I mean, this is only one part of Morocco where you can see certain things that you don't see, like, for example, in the south of Morocco.
Where there is the Sahara and all the dunes and the sand.
That's right.
[ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ So many different sceneries and geography.
It's crazy.
Absolutely.
So Morocco is not just sand and desert.
There is many different climates.
Edgar: Here, 1000 meters above sea level, life is very simple.
The residents are very close to the land and lead more natural lives.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ But life in this part of the country can have its hardships.
A Moroccan artist whose folk music expressed the joys and sorrows of the people who left their villages in the Middle Atlas Mountains to make a living in Morocco's urban centers is Mohammed Rouicha.
Raised in Khenifra, he was an award-winning musician who performed all over Morocco up to his death in 2012.
Rouicha: [ Singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ His son, Ahmadallah Rouicha, continues to carry on his legacy and is himself an award-winning musician and was even decorated by the King Mohammed VI.
Leaving no stone unturned, Hassan takes Laurent to meet him.
I believe your father was a very influential artist here in Morocco.
Would you tell me about him?
[ Speaking native language ] "My father was the one and only famous, and you can call him as a king, of the Amazigh music in the Middle Atlas Mountain."
♪♪♪ I believe you are a very famous artist too.
What is your style?
[ Speaking native language ] "I am following the footsteps of my father.
I have the same costumes that my father used to wear and I play the same instruments that my father left me, and I play the style that he used to play, which is called the Amazighian music from the Middle Atlas Mountain."
The friends continue their journey through the mountains with a full day of driving ahead of them.
Laurent asks Nouamane about the differences between Eastern and Western music.
In Western music, the alphabet is 12 tones because we divide the tone into half, sharp, and flat.
In Eastern music, we divide it into four.
We have sharp, we have flat, we have half sharp and half flat.
What do we call, quarter tone.
And let me explain to you in my instrument.
For example, let's play a C major.
[ Singing ] ♪ Do-re-mi fa-so-la-si-do ♪ Now, I'll go through this E and divide it into two again, which what we call quarter tone.
[ Singing ] ♪ Da, dee-da-da, la-da-da-da-uh ♪ ♪ La-da-da-da-da-daaa ♪ ♪ La-di-di-di-diii ♪ So it's more rich.
As they discuss the music of Morocco, their voyage out of the mountains is leading them into a new frontier.
What I love about Morocco is the diverse climate and landscape there are.
For instance, the -- if you go up to the north, you have all the beaches and with the sand and everything.
But if you go -- if you drive a few hours just next to Tangier or if you go up to Marrakesh, you have all the mountains and right next to it, you can go skiing, for instance.
In just a few hours, you can go from the beach to the mountains, and in just a couple of hours after that, you're right down at the desert.
Edgar: The large peaks of the Atlas Mountains, many rising over 3,000 meters above sea level, are a natural barrier for weather patterns that come from the Atlantic Ocean.
As a result, the southern side of the Atlas Mountains is dry and barren.
♪♪♪ This is the beginning of the largest hot desert on earth -- the Sahara.
Covering almost all of North Africa, its size is comparable to that of the United States.
The Ziz River snakes 280 kilometers from the Atlas Mountains into the Sahara and feeds a large and vibrant oasis.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ The friends' journey continues south into the desert to a town called Merzouga.
♪♪♪ It sits just 50 kilometers from the border of Algeria.
♪♪♪ Almost one third of the land on our planet is desert, and its most iconic feature is the sand dune.
[ Camera shutter clicks ] [ Camera shutter clicks ] [ Camera shutter clicks ] And a sunrise in this part of the world is a one-of-a-kind experience.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ In my region, Tafilalt, we love to play a guitar.
[ Group singing and playing instruments ] ♪♪♪ [ Singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ We had all the music.
We listened to English music, for example, we can say Robbie Williams, we can say Spanish music like Enrique Iglesias.
But first, our first music and all the time in our house especially or everywhere is Berber music.
[ Group singing in native language ] Edgar: The musician Miloud Missaoui is popular throughout Morocco for infusing African jazz into his music, which relies on the pentatonic scale, an ancient musical scale that is still popular in today's modern music.
Well, the music played in this region is a Merzougian music mixed with West African music and also Middle Eastern music.
[ Group singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ You know what's amazing about this place here in the desert in Merzouga, people here, the musicians, they play any kind of things around them, like, for example, the stones, you know, rocks.
[ Percussion breakdown ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ I mean, look around you.
Musicians here used whatever is around them to play music.
♪♪♪ But you know what?
Stop talking about music and stuff.
Let's go have some fun now.
What do you mean?
I'm telling you, man, you're gonna enjoy it.
Trust me.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Whoo!
[ Laughs ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Laurent: Hassan.
Hassan: Yes, brother.
That was amazing!
This is it, man.
We are here in the desert of Merzouga.
The whole region here is called Tafilalt, and the 16th century used to be called [Indistinct].
Amazing place.
Should we go there?
Yes, let's go.
All right, then.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ The dunes of Merzouga make for a great environment for four-wheeling.
But life in the Sahara means traversing this environment for more than just fun.
Like Yaseen, who Laurent met while enjoying the arid weather of the Sahara.
He drives across these dunes daily to get to his job.
His Mobylette is the modern-day camel.
[ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ As the day fades to night, Nouamane, Hassan, and Laurent gather with their friends to jam, to tell stories, and reflect on their adventure.
[ Group singing in native language ] ♪♪♪ Traveling more than 600 kilometers over the Mid Atlas Mountains from the Medina of Fes to the heights of Khenifra into the dunes of the Sahara.
This experience has opened up the story of Morocco for Laurent and his friends.
[ Singing continues ] ♪♪♪ It's clear that this country has many more surprises to discover, but for now, under the stars and the night sky, they embrace the chance to just live in the moment and take in the sounds of Morocco.
[ Singing continues ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪


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