MICHAEL: Welcome to Ireland with Michael.

I'm Michael Londra, and in this show, I get to tell you everything I love about my home country the best way I know how, through music.

Today, we're in County Donegal.

We'll begin at altitude at one of Europe's highest cliffs, often called the edge of the world.

And we'll explore why the geology here is an exact match for a spot on North America's East Coast.

Then we'll hop a bike with a little power boost to silently discover a spot where, just beyond the trees, a castle with a turbulent history now lies in serenity.

And then we'll try on some tweed and meet those who still use old school ways to produce clothes that last generations.

♪ ♪ ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael is made possible by- ♪ ANNOUNCER: The music, the folklore, and the hospitality.

It's all in Ireland.

ANNOUNCER: Since 1932, CIE Tours has welcomed travelers to discover Ireland's rolling green landscapes, cherished traditions, and Irish hospitality, creating memories that last a lifetime.

CIE Tours, where every journey becomes a story.

♪ MICHAEL: Whenever I come this far north, I make my way here to Sliabh Liag.

This is one of Mother Nature's enchanting wonders.

Just shy of 2,000 feet up, we can see Donegal Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, which, with fierce waves and strong winds, have carved this stunning beauty.

The history here offers up more than just breathtaking views.

There are tales of mysterious powers here that I'm inclined to respect.

Dare we question the folklore of my ancestors?

♪ So, David, you should know that I'm a little bit terrified here on the cliff's edge, but I love this part of the world.

I love to come up here.

It makes me feel alive.

You are a local.

So, did you- you grew up around these cliffs?

DAVID G.: I did, and I actually grew up, as a crow flies, just about a mile and a half on the other side of the cliffs.

So, when I'm looking at the Sliabh Liag mountain, I'm looking at the other side.

But these cliffs, I mean, it's a part of everybody's childhood around here.

But these cliffs, I mean, they're majestic, you know.

I mean, they're 1,972 feet high, and that's just at the very top there at the One Man's Pass.

So we're not quite at that height yet, but I'm sure you want to head up there after a while.

MICHAEL: I have no intention.

I think it's a great view from right here looking up there.

So, what is your job connected to- to the cliffs themselves?

DAVID G.: Okay, so, I work in the Sliabh Liag Experience and Visitor Centre, so I'm one of the tour guides there.

And I also- I'm just one of the general operatives down there.

But the best part of my job is for visitors, when they arrive here, and I get to take them up here and show them this majestic landscape behind us here.

That- I mean, that's really a dream job.

The great thing about here, with all the new paths, and you can see it all the way back up here, that, if you only just want to go to the viewing area there at the decking just right behind us, that's all you need to go.

Or, if you want to be wee more adventurous, you can carry on along the path, and you can walk for about an hour and a half, and it stops just shy of the One Man's Pass.

So there's something for everybody.

You don't have to be active, or you can be very active.

So that's- that's the great thing about it.

There's so many choices.

All the stone that's used on the path actually came from other parts of the mountain.

So we didn't have to outsource the material because, as you look around, there's no shortage of stones around here.

So that's one great thing.

We're able to incorporate that into the path.

MICHAEL: I imagine, if you see this every day, you can kind of take it for granted.

DAVID G.: You never take it for granted.

Like, I- I could be up here ten times a day with different groups or just with a single parent, and, every time we come up, it catches in the back of your throat, because the sun could be hitting a different part of the mountain.

If you come up here in ten minutes' time, hopefully the sun will be hitting this.

So you have a different view every time you go up, and there's no way you can take this for granted.

♪ MICHAEL: There's a grueling 3,000-mile hike along the U.S.

East Coast from Georgia to Maine known as the Appalachian Trail.

But did you know that there's an International Appalachian Trail extending from there to here?

Separated by an ocean today, if we turn the clock back, way back, to before continents drifted, the lands were connected.

We know that because experts have confirmed the rocks here are an exact match for the rocks along the U.S.

East Coast.

♪ The headlands beach where we are now is right next to a spot that was an important waypoint in the mid-1940s.

♪ It's World War II history that's hidden to most because, well, you need a bird's-eye view, which we have.

During World War II, Ireland was neutral, and this is how Irish leaders let those flying seaplanes know there was no fight to be had here.

The large stones spelling out Eire, Gaelic for Ireland, served as a navigation aid for the Allied aircraft.

It signalled they were flying over neutral Irish territory en route to land on the water at the Royal Air Force base in Lough Erne.

(seaplane sounds) ♪ (water splashing) After seeing the beauty and charm of this part of Ireland, English songwriter Phil Colclough was inspired to write the beautiful "Song for Ireland."

Here's David James giving us this classic.

♪ ♪ Walking all the day near tall towers ♪ ♪ Where falcons build their nests ♪ ♪ Silver wings they fly ♪ They know the call of freedom in their breasts ♪ ♪ Saw Black Head against the sky ♪ ♪ Where twisted rocks ♪ They run down to the sea ♪ ♪ Living on your western shore ♪ ♪ Saw summer sunsets ♪ Asked for more ♪ I stood by your Atlantic Sea ♪ ♪ And sang a song for Ireland ♪ MICHAEL: David, I always think that there's something in the air in Donegal when I come here, be it walking through the streets, be it walking up the mountains, or when, especially, I meet Donegal people.

What do you think is different about Donegal to the rest of Ireland?

DAVID J.: Donegal is just such a beautiful place, and the people of Donegal are very authentic Irish people, I would say, hardworking people.

We've got some of the most beautiful scenery in the whole of Ireland.

So I think that's what separates us from the rest.

MICHAEL: I will also say that there's something special about the music up here.

DAVID J.: There certainly is.

You know, music has a really rich heritage here in Ireland as a whole country, but especially here in Donegal, and Irish country music is very prominent here in the northwest of Ireland, and I suppose Irish country music is an amalgamation of both traditional American country music and Irish traditional music.

♪ Drinking all the days ♪ In old pubs ♪ Where fiddlers love to play ♪ ♪ Someone touch the bow ♪ He played a reel, it seemed so fine and gay ♪ ♪ Watched the Galway salmon run ♪ ♪ Like silver dancing ♪ Darting in the sun ♪ Living on your western shore ♪ ♪ Saw summer sunsets ♪ Asked for more MICHAEL: You now are heading out as a young recording artist in the Irish country scene.

DAVID J.: Yeah.

MICHAEL: So, what does that involve?

DAVID J.: We're actively touring all the time.

We would travel the length and breadth of Ireland playing at mostly dances and some concerts, and the dances are something that are, once again, probably unique to Ireland.

We would have people of all ages from three to 103 coming out to the dances, and myself and the band would be on stage, and we'd be playing what's known as jives.

We'd come out and do a set of jives, and people would be dancing on the floor to that.

And then we'd do some waltzes, some country foxtrots, and, you know, we would do a real mixture of everything.

♪ Living on your western shore ♪ ♪ Saw summer sunsets ♪ Asked for more ♪ I stood by your Atlantic sea ♪ ♪ And sang a song for Ireland ♪ ♪ Yes, I sang a song for Ireland ♪ ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: The landscape of Glenveagh National Park is a dramatic tapestry woven by immense geological forces over millions of years.

The rocks here in the park, granite and quartzite, are among the hardest on Earth, but no match for other natural forces as this area was shaped into this spectacular setting by glaciers during the ice age.

If you're as gobsmacked as I am, then you've hit upon what the Irish people hold dear, respect for Mother Nature.

♪ (water splashing) There is a great, great song from up here called "The Hills of Donegal," and, when we arrived here, I thought very much of that song.

We are standing in the middle of Glenveagh National Park.

Tell me about your role up here.

CLARE: Well, my job here, Michael, is the head guide.

I've worked here for 18 years and, basically, my job is all about taking people into the hills of Donegal and telling them all about the wonderful history and culture and landscape here, in particular about the nature and conservation work that happens in the national parks.

MICHAEL: It's a very diverse park, it's enormous.

If you could give me a big picture idea of everything that encompasses Glenveagh.

CLARE: It is, it's huge, it covers something like 40,000 hectares, and, when visitors come here, they sometimes can be forgiven for spending an hour or two going to the castle and the gardens and thinking that that's it, but there's actually a lot more to it.

So we like to tell people everything as far as your eye can see, it's all Glenveagh.

It's a huge glaciated valley, it's made up of beautiful uplands, woodlands, freshwater lake, and peatlands, as well.

And nestled in the middle of the valley, we're very lucky to have Glenveagh Castle and Gardens, which are really beautiful, but they're only part of the story.

MICHAEL: So, when somebody comes here, it's not just about just going to see the castle.

Can they explore the whole park, or did you fix- tie it to one area?

CLARE: Absolutely, there's a number of trails, some of them are quite short, like the walk to the castle, it's about three kilometers long, it's a lovely gentle easy stroll, you can hire a bike and cycle along there.

But there's other trails that take you up onto the heights around the Viewpoint Trail at the back of the castle, and you can take in views of the whole valley, and, on a clear day, it's possible to almost see right out onto the coastline of Donegal.

So there's something for all tastes, all ages, all abilities, it's very unique in that- that way, so.

MICHAEL: So, Glenveagh Castle is about two miles up the road, probably all uphill.

But what the crew doesn't know is that I've got myself an e-bike.

♪ You know, you may think that cycling two miles over the valleys and the mountains of Glenveagh, that you need to be somewhat fit, but, really, an e-bike helps a lot.

♪ The castle here is relatively young compared to much of Ireland's history.

It was built slightly more than 150 years ago by a man who turned out to be somewhat of a villain.

He ruthlessly evicted those who lived nearby, but then he suddenly died.

His wife became a gracious and much-loved philanthropist and socialite.

During World War I, she opened the castle to care for wounded Belgian soldiers.

The remoteness and tranquility of Glenveagh would later become a draw for stars like Charlie Chaplin, Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, and Marilyn Monroe.

And now, as a national park, it's something for the rest of us.

♪ You know, Clare, walking around inside the castle, I'm really drawn to this room.

It feels very special.

Can you tell me a little bit more about it?

CLARE: Yeah, Michael.

So, this is the music room.

Obviously there are lots of different rooms in the castle, but this room is in the bottom floor of the ground tower, and it is, you'll notice, covered with this lovely tartan material.

And that would have been put there deliberately to improve the acoustics of the room, because this was somewhere where people would have retired to in the evenings to relax.

The gentlemen in particular would have come here later on after dinner and would have enjoyed a glass or two of something rather nice.

MICHAEL: I can almost hear the songs in the history of the walls of the castle, you know?

CLARE: Absolutely, yeah.

The castle was renowned as being a place for leisure, relaxation, for people's enjoyment.

You know, it was a hunting estate back in the late 1800s.

So you'll notice, as you look around the room, there's lots of artifacts and sort of things made of antlers from deer.

So people would have come here for sort of the hunting and for that sort of activity, leisure time.

So gentlemen would have gone out and hunted in the day and then come back down to the castle in the evening for their dinner and their evening of luxury, by the way.

MICHAEL: So, Clare, now that we're here, any chance of a song?

CLARE: [laughs] I don't sing.

Have you got one?

Would you like to give me one?

MICHAEL: If you only knew.

CLARE: [laughs] Go on then.

♪ MICHAEL: You've heard of fast fashion?

Well, this is anything but that.

We're at Magee 1866, where the journey from sheep to suit takes about two years.

♪ (loom sounds) Patrick, for about 25 years, I have the most gorgeous tweed jacket that I got direct from right here.

You are at the top of the tweed mountain, and I'm delighted to meet you.

PATRICK: Lovely to have you here, and you're most welcome to Magee's.

MICHAEL: So, you're in the heart of Donegal, in the heart of Donegal town.

PATRICK: Absolutely.

MICHAEL: And it's a massive operation.

I had no idea.

Tell me about how this all started in this town.

PATRICK: Founded in 1866 by John Magee.

The business model has always been weaving and tailoring, and, today, it's still weaving, tailoring, but also casual lifestyle collections.

We're sort of industrial-artisan, artisan-industrial, from- maintaining hand weaving, we continue to hand weave today.

It is human-powered, so it's a very sustainable way of producing fabric.

It's- it is- it is about those skills, enjoying them, maintaining them, and growing them into the future, and I pay great thanks and testament to all involved.

MICHAEL: So, from these threads, how long does it take these threads to become this pretty fantastic coat, I might add?

PATRICK: The creation of the yarn takes quite a while, and then the warping, weaving, and finishing process is also.

And then the garment manufacturing, we're looking at another 10 to 12 weeks.

So we're looking at a sort of 24-week lead time.

So we are very much in the slow fashion game here.

MICHAEL: Slow fashion.

♪ Patrick, this looks a little bit closer to what I'm familiar with when you say the word loom.

PATRICK: This is hand weaving.

These looms were designed in Keighley in Yorkshire in the 1920s.

They're a pedal loom, and, to Magee, hand weaving is still key to maintain into the future.

There's no point talking about the past if we can't relive- curr- currently live it in the future and continue to do so and to create lovely fabrics that are hand woven.

And it ticks an awful lot of environmental boxes because it's human-powered.

♪ (loom sounds) MICHAEL: So, Patrick, we're at the end, near the end of a rather long process, right?

I have heard the phrase being on tenterhooks before.

Never really quite knew where it came from, but you can tell me.

PATRICK: Well, this is where we stretch out now, Michael.

The fabric has just- it's- it's- been woven, and now, on tenterhooks is when it gets pulled out to its width, where we fix it then with heat inside this oven.

And the description on tenterhooks is these lovely little sharp pins that stretch the fabric out to its full width.

And so, when you're on tenterhooks, you're under pressure.

♪ MICHAEL: The journey to Harvey's Point is a wee bit time-consuming, but wow, worth every minute, especially if you inch along as we have.

There was a time when we used to buy film for our cameras, and we would call these Kodak spots.

Today, with our digital camera phones in hand, we can capture the breathtaking vistas that lead all the way to Harvey's Point.

But I urge you to also put the phone away, pause along your journey here, and just take in what Irish mythology calls Danu.

She is the Irish version of Mother Nature, whose name translates to divine waters, and divine they are indeed.

♪ ♪ (duck quacking) There are few people that I think can use just one name.

There's Sting, there's Cher, and I also feel there might be a Noel.

NOEL: You are just too kind.

MICHAEL: So, what do you think is the essence of Donegal?

Before we get to Harvey's Point, what do you think is the essence?

Because I'm trying to get to that secret.

NOEL: The essence of Donegal is that kind of unhurried approach to life.

You know, we are cool, we let things pass us by a little bit, and we are ever so grateful for exchange and talk about our culture, our history, our arts, our music, our scenery.

MICHAEL: Now, specifically Harvey's Point, here on the most magnificent lough.

The warmth when you walk in that front door and you're greeted by that staff, you feel like you are a part of the family here.

You feel like you're- you're not checking into a hotel, but you're checkin' into a home.

But then I walk in further and I sit down for, without a doubt, the single best dinner that I've ever had in a hotel anywhere.

Talk to me about the food here.

NOEL: The food, we would always consider ourselves fine dining and very good casual dining.

Not too kind of full of ourselves insofar as you want to provide good, wholesome food with a good, local story.

MICHAEL: Well, the Donegal weather may be giving us a bit of a hard time, but maybe we could go inside and have a- a- a swift pint to warm us up.

NOEL: That would be- that would be absolutely fantastic, or a good old Irish hot whiskey.

MICHAEL: I'm all in.

NOEL: Yes, absolutely.

♪ (fire crackling) MICHAEL: Paula, I was just doing some math, and I think it's 24 years since I saw you last.

PAULA: It could well be, Michael.

MICHAEL: We- we both belong to this small but very special club, being Riverdance cast members.

You came back after your years sharing your talent to nurture talent here in Donegal.

Tell me about Draíocht na hÓige.

PAULA: Yeah, so Draíocht na hÓige is a traditional Irish music orchestra.

It's for musicians aged 10 to 21.

So, really, Michael, we live in the most beautiful part of the world in northwest of Ireland in Donegal, and we have such a rich culture of traditional music and song and dance, and I was very lucky to have grown up in that beautiful environment to grow up in, where we played fiddle all day and danced all evening.

MICHAEL: You better explain what Draíocht na hÓige means.

It's a- pretty much- it's a mouthful.

PAULA: Yes.

MICHAEL: Particularly with your Donegal accent, I might point out.

PAULA: [laughs] Yeah, it's really the magic of youth.

MICHAEL: You know, we all- Irish people in general, we do learn how to- how to play instruments, or to- we learn about dances, or we learn about songs, or traditional poems, but really we rarely leave the house to perform them.

We- PAULA: True.

MICHAEL: We tend to perform for ourselves, really.

PAULA: Exactly, yes.

MICHAEL: So you take it to the next level.

PAULA: Yeah, and that's what we found, that the young people really weren't getting that opportunity to perform.

And to teach them the local tunes and the tunes that may be lost, you know, if we didn't try to teach the next generation and allow them the space and the creativity to perform those tunes.

And then we bring along our Irish dancers from the McNelis Cunningham School.

That's the school I set up once I left Riverdance.

And they come and perform with us, too, and it's always got that little cute factor for sure.

MICHAEL: You are spreading that legacy.

I have to tell you, I'm super proud of you.

PAULA: Thank you so much, Michael.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: Thanks for joining me on my travels around the Wild Atlantic Way north.

I'm Michael Londra, and I hope to see you next time on Ireland with Michael.

But for now, cheers.

Sláinte.

ANNOUNCER: Want to continue your travels to Ireland?

Your choice of the Ireland with Michael DVD, Seasons 1 and 2 or Seasons 3 and 4, with bonus concert footage is available for $30.

Ireland with Michael, a musical journey CD with songs from Michael and his guest artists, is available for $20.

The Ireland with Michael companion travel book, featuring places to visit as seen in all seasons, is also available for $30.

This offer is made by Wexford House.

Shipping and handling is not included.

MICHAEL: To learn more about everything you've seen in this episode, go to IrelandWithMichael.com.

ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael was made possible by- ♪ ANNOUNCER: The music, the folklore, and the hospitality.

It's all in Ireland.

ANNOUNCER: Since 1932, CIE Tours has welcomed travelers to discover Ireland's rolling green landscapes, cherished traditions, and Irish hospitality, creating memories that last a lifetime.

CIE Tours, where every journey becomes a story.

MICHAEL: Okay, put your hands up in the air!

Come on, let's get a-wavin'!

♪ In my heart, its rightful queen ♪ ♪ Ever loving ♪ Ever tender That's it!

♪ Ever true ♪ Like the Sun, your smile has shone ♪ Go on, Wexford!

♪ Gladdening all it glowed upon ♪ ♪ ♪