AMERICAN PUBLIC TELEVISION PRESENTS...

THE SPLENDORS OF THE WORLD IN THE LIFELIKE REALITY OF HIGH-DEFINITION TELEVISION.

FROM THE TYRRHENIAN SEA TO THE SABINE HILLS, FROM OLIVE TREE GROVES TO ROLLING VINEYARDS, THIS COUNTRYSIDE SPAWNED A GREAT EMPIRE AND LATER BECAME ITS PEACEFUL PLAYGROUND.

NEXT UP, "OUT OF ROME" ON "SMART TRAVELS."

MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS" IS PROVIDED BY EXPEDIA.COM, A TRAVEL WEBSITE THAT OFFERS TRAVELERS A VARIETY OF WAYS TO CREATE THE TRIP THEY'RE LOOKING FOR, INCLUDING FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES.

EXPEDIA.COM: DON'T JUST TRAVEL.

TRAVEL RIGHT.

CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION Announcer: "SMART TRAVELS" IS A GRAND TOUR OF THE OLD WORLD-- THE PEOPLE, PLACES, SIGHTS, AND DISTINCTLY EUROPEAN FLAVORS.

OUR HOST IS TRAVEL WRITER AND COLUMNIST RUDY MAXA, PUBLIC RADIO'S ORIGINAL SAVVY TRAVELER.

NOW, TIPS, TRIPS, AND SECRET PLACES ON "SMART TRAVELS."

Rudy, voice-over: IN THE FIRST CENTURY B.C., THE ROMAN HISTORIAN LIVY WROTE, "NOT WITHOUT REASON DID GODS AND MEN CHOOSE THIS SITE FOR ROME.

"THE HEALTHY HILLS, A RIVER ADAPTED FOR TRADE, "THE SEA NOT TOO DISTANT-- ALL ALLOW ROME TO BE THE GREATEST CITY IN THE WORLD."

INDEED ROME ROSE TO GREAT HEIGHTS, AND ITS SIGHTS CAN ABSORB THE TRAVELER FOR WEEKS.

BUT OUTSIDE THE CITY, DOWN THE LONG, STRAIGHT ROADS THE ROMANS BUILT TO ALL CORNERS OF THE GLOBE, THERE LIES MUCH MORE TO EXPLORE.

FROM THE OLIVE TREES ON THE SABINE HILLS TO THE GREAT ROMAN VILLAS AND THE MEDIEVAL TOWNS, THE ENVIRONS OF ROME ARE A PLACE FOR EASY DAY TRIPS, SOME SOLITUDE, AND ESCAPE FROM THE SUMMER HEAT.

THE ROMANS CALLED THE COUNTRYSIDE AROUND ROME "CAMPAGNA."

WHETHER WANDERING THROUGH THE RUINS OF ROME'S ANCIENT SEAPORT OR LISTENING TO THE MUSICAL FOUNTAINS AT A VILLA, GETTING OUTSIDE THE CITY AND AWAY FROM THE CROWDS HELPS THE PAST TRULY COME TO LIFE.

ALL ROADS LEAD OUT OF ROME.

THE MASTER ENGINEERS BUILT MANY MAJOR ARTERIES LEAVING THE CITY.

YOU CAN STILL GET A FEEL FOR THESE GREAT ROADS ON THE OLD APPIAN WAY, THE ROMAN ROAD TOWARD GREECE, ASIA MINOR, AND EGYPT.

STROLLING HERE UNDER THE CYPRESS TREES IN THE APPIAN WAY PARK, JUST OUTSIDE THE CITY LIMITS, TIME SLIPS AWAY.

AN EDICT IN ANCIENT ROME FORBADE THE BURIAL OF THE DEAD WITHIN THE CITY LIMITS, SO FAMILIES BUILT TOMBS, CATACOMBS, AND BASILICAS ALONG THE ROUTE.

SOME PARTS OF THE ROAD STILL HAVE THEIR ORIGINAL ROMAN STONES.

WE HEAD OUT OF ROME IN ALL DIRECTIONS-- SOUTH TO THE ALBAN HILLS, TO OSTIA ANTICA, AND THE BEACH AT SPERLONGA.

NORTH TO THE SABINE HILLS AND THE CITY OF VITERBO.

WEST TO A GLORIOUS HOTEL.

AND WE BEGIN JUST EAST AT HADRIAN'S VILLA.

WHAT THOSE ROMAN ENGINEERS DID NOT BUILD IS THE CRAZY RING ROAD THAT NOWADAYS ENCIRCLES ROME.

IT CAN BE A CONGESTED NIGHTMARE, SO TRY TO AVOID RUSH HOUR ON YOUR WAY IN AND OUT OF THE CITY.

OUTSIDE OF ROME, ALONG ALL OF THE GREAT ROMAN ROADS, EMPERORS AND NOBILITY BUILT VILLAS IN THE COUNTRYSIDE.

VILLA ADRIANA, OR HADRIAN'S VILLA, IS A GREAT ESTATE BUILT BY THE ROMAN EMPEROR HADRIAN IN 118 A.D.

IN TIVOLI ON THE EAST SIDE OF ROME, JUST ABOUT AN HOUR BY CAR OR BUS.

STATESMAN, GENERAL, ARCHITECT, GREEK SCHOLAR, PAINTER, AND SCULPTOR, HADRIAN WAS A LEARNED AND ACCOMPLISHED MAN AND CONSIDERED ONE OF THE BEST RULERS OF ROME.

AMONG OTHER THINGS, HE'S KNOWN FOR REBUILDING THE PANTHEON IN DOWNTOWN ROME IN A REVOLUTIONARY WAY AND DESIGNING THIS MAGNIFICENT VILLA, A MAJOR WORK OF WESTERN ART.

HADRIAN PREFERRED TO ESCAPE HERE RATHER THAN STAY IN ROME, PARTIALLY BECAUSE THE ROMAN SENATE DISLIKED HIM.

A NUMBER OF HIS ENEMIES WERE ASSASSINATED SHORTLY AFTER HE WAS NAMED EMPEROR, AND ALTHOUGH HE DENIED ANY PART IN IT, THE SENATE NEVER TRUSTED HIM.

THE VILLA COVERS 200 ACRES OF LIBRARIES, BATHS, GARDENS, THEATERS, AND POOLS.

THE MARITIME THEATER, NAMED FOR THE CIRCULAR SHAPE OF THE BUILDING, ACTUALLY SERVED AS A RETREAT FOR THE EMPEROR.

HADRIAN DESIGNED A MINIATURE VILLA ON AN ISLAND WHERE HE COULD DINE AND SLEEP.

BRIDGES TO THE ISLAND WERE REMOVED AT NIGHT TO KEEP HIM SAFE FROM HARM.

HADRIAN TRAVELED EXTENSIVELY, AND AT HIS VILLA, HE RE-CREATED SOME OF THE WONDERS HE DISCOVERED AROUND THE WORLD.

HADRIAN CALLED THIS POOL THE CANOPUS AND MODELED IT ON A CANAL THAT LED TO ALEXANDRIA IN EGYPT.

HE THREW LAVISH BANQUETS HERE AT NIGHTTIME, THOUGH HE HIMSELF RARELY SOCIALIZED WITH HIS GUESTS.

FEW OF THE ORNATE MOSAICS AND STATUES THAT ONCE ADORNED THE VILLA REMAIN.

MOST WERE STOLEN OR DESTROYED YEARS AGO.

ANOTHER CITY ESCAPE TAKES US SOUTH FOR A REFRESHING CHANGE OF PACE.

PICTURESQUE TOWNS PERCHED ON VOLCANIC CRATERS, SPARKLING LAKES AND A TASTE OF THE REFRESHING LOCAL WINE-- THIS EASY DAY TRIP SOUTH OF ROME FOLLOWS THE ROUTE OF THE VIA APPIA TO THE COLLI ALBANI, OR ALBAN HILLS.

SINCE THE 17th CENTURY, POPES HAVE COME TO THE ALBAN TOWN CALLED CASTEL GANDOLFO TO ESCAPE THE SUMMER HEAT.

THE TOWN OVERLOOKS A VOLCANIC CRATER, LAKE ALBANO.

THE PAPAL PALACE CANNOT BE VISITED, BUT YOU CAN FOLLOW THE POPES' LEAD AND RELAX IN THIS TINY LAKESIDE TOWN.

SCHOLARS BELIEVE THAT AN ANCIENT TOWN HERE CALLED ALBA LONGA PREDATED ROME.

IN FACT, ROME'S FOUNDERS MAY HAVE COME FROM THIS SPOT.

ONE OF THE GREAT PLEASURES OF TRAVELING IS TRYING THE LOCAL WINE, AND HERE IN CASTEL GANDOLFO, THEY'VE GOT THEIR OWN RED AND WHITE.

THIS IS AN INTERESTING ONE.

IT'S A DESSERT RED AND A LITTLE DIFFERENT THAN YOUR AVERAGE RED WINE BECAUSE...

IT'S SWEET BUT NOT CLOYING, AND IT'S GOT A LITTLE BIT OF FIZZ, SO IF YOU'RE HERE AND YOU'RE VISITING THE POPE'S HOUSE DOWN THE STREET, COME ON DOWN HERE AND TRY A LITTLE OF THE LOCAL JUICE AS WELL.

THE UNIQUE LITTLE STORE ARTE E VINO COUPLES ANTIQUES WITH THE LOCAL WINE, AND IT'S AN INTOXICATING WAY TO SHOP.

THE SMALLEST AND MOST CHARMING OF THE ALBAN HILL TOWNS IS LITTLE NEMI ON THE SLOPES OF LAKE NEMI.

KNOWN THROUGHOUT THE REGION FOR ITS PLUMP STRAWBERRIES, NEMI ATTRACTED THE ANCIENTS AS WELL.

THE CRUEL EMPEROR CALIGULA BUILT ENORMOUS PLEASURE BARGES DECORATED WITH MARBLE AND STATUES THAT FLOATED ON LAKE NEMI.

IN THE 1930s, MUSSOLINI HAD THE LAKE DRAINED AND FOUND THE 2,000-YEAR-OLD BARGES.

INCREDIBLY, THE NAZIS BURNED THEM ON THEIR RETREAT IN WORLD WAR II.

JUST AS ROMAN EMPERORS RETREATED TO COUNTRYSIDE VILLAS, SO, TOO, CAN THE MODERN VISITOR.

MY PERSONAL COUNTRY VILLA IS LOCATED ON THE TYRRHENIAN SEA, ABOUT 20 MILES FROM ROME.

LA POSTA VECCHIA USED TO BELONG TO A 17th-CENTURY PRINCE, THEN A 20th-CENTURY OIL TYCOON, AND NOW IT'S A 5-STAR DELUXE HOTEL AND A RETREAT FIT FOR AN EMPEROR.

LA POSTA VECCHIA MAKES A NICE BASE FOR EXPLORING THE REGION-- OR A LOVELY EVENING RETREAT WHEN EXPLORING ROME BY DAY.

WHEN YOU STAY AT LA POSTA VECCHIA, YOU'RE A GUEST IN THE HOME OF ONE OF THE WORLD'S RICHEST MEN.

OIL BILLIONAIRE JEAN PAUL GETTY RENOVATED THE PROPERTY, INTENT ON FINDING SECLUSION AND PEACE.

IN THE PROCESS OF RESTORING THE BUILDING, GETTY UNCOVERED RUINS OF TWO ANCIENT ROMAN VILLAS FROM THE SECOND CENTURY B.C.

THOSE FINDS ARE NOW ON DISPLAY IN THE HOTEL'S PRIVATE MUSEUM.

THE RESTAURANT ALONE IS WORTH A VISIT.

THE PARISIAN-TRAINED CHEF SCULPTS INCREDIBLE WORKS OF ART LIKE THIS VARIATION ON A MOZZARELLA AND TOMATO SALAD.

AND FOR DESSERT, FRESH PAPAYA AND CANNOLI STUFFED WITH CREAM.

OH, MY.

THE POSTA VECCHIA IS AN EXCLUSIVE EXPERIENCE-- PART LUXURY HOTEL, PART MUSEUM, PART PRIVATE HOME.

JUST SOUTH OF ROME AND AN EASY TRIP FROM THE HOTEL OR A SUBWAY RIDE FROM THE CITY LIES OSTIA ANTICA, ROME'S POMPEI.

THE WELL-PRESERVED RUINS AND STUNNING DETAILS OFFER AN ALMOST UNCANNY EXPERIENCE OF EVERYDAY CITY LIFE IN ANCIENT TIMES.

FOR 800 YEARS, OSTIA SERVED AS ROME'S SEAPORT.

IT BEGAN AS A MILITARY POST AND DEVELOPED INTO A HUGE COMMERCIAL CENTER.

HADRIAN BUILT OR RENOVATED MUCH OF THE TOWN IN THE SECOND CENTURY A.D. OSTIA THRIVED.

THE STREETS BUSTLED WITH SAILORS AND MERCHANTS, SENATORS AND SLAVES.

WAREHOUSES, TEMPLES, PUBLIC BATHS, AND BARS LINED THE BUSY STREETS.

BETWEEN 60,000 TO 80,000 PEOPLE INHABITED THIS VIBRANT SEAPORT.

IN THE CENTER OF TOWN, A THEATER SEATING 3,000 PEOPLE HELD PLAYS AND SPECTACLES.

THE ACTORS WORE MASKS TO PLAY A VARIETY OF CHARACTERS IN DIFFERENT STATES OF MIND.

BEHIND THE THEATER, THE PIAZZALE DELLE CORPORAZIONI WAS OSTIA'S MALL, WHERE THE TRADING COMPANIES SET UP SHOP.

THE BLACK-AND-WHITE MOSAICS ON THE FLOOR DEPICT THE SHIPS, THEIR CARGO-- EVERYTHING FROM VASES TO ANIMALS FOR THE GAMES-- AND SOMETIMES WHERE THE GOODS CAME FROM.

OSTIA'S RUINS CONTAIN A NUMBER OF PRIVATE DWELLINGS, SOME QUITE LAVISH.

A DINNER GUEST TO THIS FINE HOME WOULD FIRST WAIT OUTSIDE ON A BENCH TO BE RECEIVED.

ONCE INSIDE, HE PASSED THROUGH THIS COURTYARD, DECORATED WITH A LARGE MARBLE FOUNTAIN.

JUST THROUGH THE COURTYARD, A SUMPTUOUSLY DECORATED DINING ROOM AWAITED, WITH MOSAICS MADE OF STONE IMPORTED FROM AFRICA.

PUBLIC LIFE IN OSTIA CENTERED AROUND THE SHOPS, THE FORUM, AND THE PUBLIC BATHS.

NO PRIVATE HOME HAD RUNNING WATER, SO EVERYONE, INCLUDING THE SLAVES, MADE USE OF ONE OF THE 18 PUBLIC BATHS IN TOWN.

AT THE FISHMONGER'S SHOP, OSTIANS SHOPPED FOR SEAFOOD.

ONE CAN STILL SEE THE MARBLE SLAB WHERE THE FISH WAS PREPARED.

AND ON THE WAY OUT, NOTE THE GROOVES THAT THE SWINGING DOOR MADE, SO MANY CENTURIES AGO.

A FAVORITE OSTIAN HANGOUT WAS THE THERMOPOLIUM, A BAR THAT SERVED HOT DRINKS.

ON THE WALL, A SIGN ADVERTISES SOME OF THE MENU CHOICES.

THE JOY OF OSTIA IS THE CHANCE TO WANDER THE STREETS OF A ONCE-VIBRANT CITY AND FEEL A CONNECTION ACROSS THE CENTURIES.

WHILE YOU MIGHT NOT ASSOCIATE BEACHES WITH ROME, A LONG DAY TRIP OR PLEASANT OVERNIGHT EXCURSION TAKES IN THE LOVELY WEST COAST OF ITALY.

I'M IN SEARCH OF A QUIET BEACH TINGED WITH ANTIQUITY.

THE SEASIDE TOWN OF SPERLONGA, LOCATED ABOUT 60 MILES SOUTH OF ROME, RANKS AS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BEACH TOWN NEAR THE CITY.

SET HIGH ON A CLIFF TO WARD OFF INVADERS, THE TOWN IS NAMED FOR A NEARBY GROTTO.

SPERLONGA EVOKES A GREEK ISLE TOWN WITH ITS WHITEWASHED HOUSES...

TINY, WINDING STREETS... AND OCCASIONAL VIEWS TO THE SEA.

THE CLEAN BEACHES ENCOMPASS BOTH PRIVATE BEACHES, WHERE YOU MUST PAY DURING THE SUMMER SEASON, AND PUBLIC FACILITIES.

A HALF MILE SOUTH OF TOWN, THE ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE THE GROTTO OF TIBERIUS ONCE SERVED AS THE OUTDOOR DINING ROOM FOR THE FIRST-CENTURY ROMAN EMPEROR TIBERIUS.

THE GROUNDS HOLD A SMALL VILLA-- THE EMPEROR'S RETREAT FROM ROME-- AS WELL AS A GROTTO BY THE SEA.

INSIDE THE GROTTO, ONCE DECORATED WITH HUGE SCULPTURES, THE EMPEROR AND GUESTS DINED ON AN ARTIFICIAL ISLAND.

THE MEAL WAS SERVED ON LITTLE BOATS THAT FLOATED TO THE TABLE.

AN ADJACENT MUSEUM DISPLAYS SOME OF THE VILLA'S MARVELOUS STATUES.

IN 1957, WHEN THE SCULPTURES WERE DISCOVERED, THE RESIDENTS OF SPERLONGA ERECTED ROADBLOCKS TO KEEP THE ARTWORK FROM LEAVING TOWN.

THIS EXQUISITE LITTLE MUSEUM IS THE FRUIT OF THEIR LABOR.

SEVERAL COLOSSAL SCULPTURES ONCE FILLED THE INTERIOR OF THE GROTTO.

THE MOST SIGNIFICANT CAPTURES ODYSSEUS BLINDING THE MONSTER CYCLOPS.

MONKS DESTROYED THE ORIGINAL STATUE, AND SCHOLARS SPENT YEARS CONSTRUCTING A REPLICA BASED ON 7,000 PIECES OF THE ORIGINAL.

NORTH OF ROME, YOU CAN SAMPLE ITALY'S FINEST OLIVE OIL, WANDER THROUGH MEDIEVAL TOWNS, AND DELIGHT IN A VILLA FILLED WITH FOUNTAINS.

THE ROMAN VIA SALARIA HEADS NORTHEAST TO THE SABINE HILLS.

IT'S AN ANCIENT TRADE ROUTE, AND I'M ON A SHOPPING MISSION MYSELF-- TO STOCK UP ON THE REGION'S FINEST OLIVE OIL.

THE OLIVE TREES IN THE SABINE HILLS ARE SOME OF THE OLDEST AND LARGEST IN EUROPE, AND THE ARID LAND AND WARM BREEZES ENHANCE THE FLAVOR.

BABYLONIAN RECORDS MENTION THE QUALITY OF OLIVE OIL FROM THESE HILLS AS FAR BACK AS 1700 B.C.

THE ANCIENTS RUBBED OIL ON THEIR BODIES AFTER BATHS AND WHEN THEY FELT UNWELL.

IN ANCIENT GREECE, CUTTING DOWN AN OLIVE TREE WAS PUNISHED BY DEATH.

THE ABBEY OF FARFA, AN IMPORTANT RELIGIOUS CENTER IN MEDIEVAL TIMES, TODAY HOUSES AN OLEOTECA, A STORE WHERE YOU CAN SAMPLE THE INCREDIBLE VARIETY OF OIL FROM THIS REGION.

NOW, WE'RE IN AN ABBEY RIGHT NOW.

WHY ARE YOU SELLING OLIVE OIL IN AN ABBEY?

THE MONKS HERE IN FARFA, THEY STARTED TO DO OLIVE OIL THOUSANDS OF YEARS AGO.

SO DO YOU TASTE OLIVE OIL LIKE WINE?

DO YOU LOOK AT THE COLOR?

YOU SMELL BEFORE, YES, AND IT'S IMPORTANT, THE SMELL.

GREEN SMELL, SOMETHING LIKE LEAVES OR GRASS.

THAT IS REALLY GREAT.

IT IS VERY LIGHT.

YOU'RE RIGHT.

WITH FINE WINE, YOU OFTEN WANT IT TO BE 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 20 YEARS OLD.

IS OLIVE OIL THE SAME?

DOES IT GET BETTER AS IT GETS OLDER?

NO, IT'S NOT THE SAME.

WE SAY OLD WINE AND NEW OIL.

THAT'S BECAUSE-- OLD WINE IS GOOD, AND NEW OIL IS GOOD.

SO YOU SHOULD USE OLIVE OIL WHEN YOU BUY IT.

ONE YEAR, 24 MONTHS-- MAXIMUM.

MAXIMUM.

Rudy, voice-over: JUST DOWN THE ROAD FROM THE ABBEY, THE LITTLE TOWN OF CASTELNUOVO DI FARFA LIVES AND BREATHES OLIVE OIL.

AFTER WANDERING PAST ROSE-HUED BUILDINGS AND DOWN NARROW STREETS, I CAME UPON AN INNOVATIVE MUSEUM THAT TELLS THE STORY OF OLIVE OIL IN A VARIETY OF WAYS.

THE MUSEUM DISPLAYS ANCIENT PRESSES AND TOOLS.

BUT MOST FUN ARE TRIBUTES TO THE OLIVE BY CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS...

INCLUDING A MESMERIZING SCULPTURE THAT CREATES MUSIC FROM DROPS OF OIL SYNCHRONIZED TO A SENSOR THAT READS THE TEXTURE OF AN OLIVE TREE.

A LONELY AND MAGICAL INTERPRETATION OF THE IMPORTANCE OF THE OLIVE SITS ATOP A HILLSIDE COVERED WITH THE SILVERY TREES.

THE CURATORS CLOSED AND RENOVATED THIS MEDIEVAL CHURCH, AND WHEN YOU ENTER, A SOARING MIDDLE AGES MELODY PLAYS WITH CONTEMPORARY LYRICS DEDICATED TO THE OLIVE TREE.

[WOMAN SINGING] Rudy, voice-over: ALL OVER THE SABINE HILLS, SMALL OLIVE GROWERS PRODUCE THE REGIONAL OLIVE OIL.

ONE FAMILY-OWNED FARM, LA MOLA, BELONGS TO SIGNORA ANNA MARIA BILLI.

SHE AND HER DAUGHTERS TURN OLIVES INTO LIQUID GOLD, PRODUCING SOME OF ITALY'S BEST OIL.

YOU CAN CALL AHEAD TO VISIT HER ESTATE, BUY THE OLIVE OIL, AND IF YOU HAVE A SMALL GROUP, EVEN DINE AT LA MOLA'S PRIVATE RESTAURANT.

BACK IN CASTELNUOVO, THE RESIDENTS CELEBRATE THEIR LONG LOVE AFFAIR WITH OLIVE OIL IN THE FESTA DELLA BRUSCHETTA.

[PLAYING LIVELY SONG] THIS SABINE VERSION OF BRUSCHETTA IS A PIECE OF TOASTED BREAD RUBBED WITH GARLIC, TOPPED WITH SALT AND FRESH OLIVE OIL.

OH!

[MAN SINGING IN ITALIAN] WHOO HOO!

THE VIA CASSIA, NAMED FOR A ROMAN CONSUL IN 171 B.C., LEADS NORTH OF ROME TO THE MEDIEVAL CITY OF VITERBO.

A DETOUR TO NEARBY VILLA LANTE TAKES IN A RIOT OF FANTASTIC FOUNTAINS.

VITERBO, THE CITY OF POPES.

DURING THE MIDDLE AGES, POPES OFTEN FLED HERE TO ESCAPE ROME'S POLITICAL HEAT.

IN 1271, A CONCLAVE OF CARDINALS SPENT MONTHS HERE TRYING TO CHOOSE A NEW POPE.

THE TOWNSPEOPLE GREW SO FRUSTRATED WITH THE DELAY, THEY CUT DOWN THE CARDINALS' FOOD SUPPLY AND TORE THE ROOF OFF THE BUILDING WHERE THEY WERE DELIBERATING.

A POPE WAS THEN PROMPTLY ELECTED.

THE SAN PELLIGRINO QUARTER IN VITERBO IS ONE OF THE MOST PERFECTLY PRESERVED MEDIEVAL QUARTERS IN ITALY.

MANY OF THE BUILDINGS ARE MADE OF PEPERINO, THE LOCAL DARK VOLCANIC STONE.

CERAMIC ARTS GO BACK CENTURIES IN VITERBO.

AT THE SAN PELLEGRINO LABORATORIO D'ARTE, ARTISTS WORK IN AN ANCIENT STYLE CALLED ZAFFERA, FAMOUS FOR ITS DARK COBALT COLOR.

SOME OF THE POTTERY IS MADE OF PEPERINO, THE SAME STONE AS THE CITY STREETS.

IN ADDITION TO SHOPPING, VISITORS TO THIS WORKSHOP CAN PAINT A MEDIEVAL STYLE CERAMIC PIECE, FIRE IT IN THE OVEN, OR TAKE COURSES IN CERAMIC ARTS.

JUST OUTSIDE OF VITERBO, THE ENCHANTING GARDENS OF 16th-CENTURY VILLA LANTE DANCE WITH FANCIFUL FOUNTAINS.

THE PROPERTY WAS OWNED BY THE BISHOP OF VITERBO.

A SERIES OF DIFFERENT CARDINALS LIVED HERE AND ADDED TO THE ESTATE.

THE RENAISSANCE GARDEN OFTEN PLAYED WITH AUTOMATED WATER DEVICES.

IT INCORPORATED THEMES OF LOVE, MYSTICISM, AND THE ANCIENTS.

WATER CASCADES, TUMBLES, AND SWISHES IN THE INGENIOUS FOUNTAINS.

THE WATER FLOWS IN A TROUGH ALL THE WAY DOWN THE TERRACED LANDSCAPE, DIVERTED NOW AND AGAIN INTO THE FOUNTAINS OR SPOUTS.

THE CARDINALS HELD LAVISH DINNER PARTIES HERE AT THIS TABLE.

THAT TROUGH OF WATER RUNNING DOWN THE CENTER WAS MEANT TO KEEP THE WINE BOTTLES CHILLED.

THAT'S MY KIND OF TABLE.

THERE ARE MANY LITTLE NOOKS AND CRANNIES TO BE EXPLORED AT THE VILLA LANTE-- A LITTLE GROTTO HERE, A TINY WATERFALL THERE.

THE VILLA AFFORDS YET ANOTHER GLIMPSE OF ONE OF ROME'S ELITE COUNTRYSIDE RETREATS.

ALONG THE GREAT ROMAN ROADS LEADING TO THE FAR CORNERS OF THE EMPIRE LIE THE GRAND VILLAS, QUAINT TOWNS, AND SWEET COUNTRYSIDE THE ANCIENTS KNEW SO WELL.

FOLLOWING IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS, VISITORS CAN DESIGN PEACEFUL, COOL ESCAPES FROM BIG CITY LIFE.

OFTEN IT'S THE LITTLE THINGS-- THE MARK A SWINGING DOOR ONCE MADE OR THE REFLECTION OF COLUMNS IN A POOL-- THAT STIR THE SOUL AND DISSOLVE THE CENTURIES.

TO REALLY KNOW ROME, YOU MUST ALSO KNOW THE SURROUNDING REGION AND ALL ITS INCOMPARABLE MAGIC.

IT'S BANQUET TIME HERE AT MY COUNTRYSIDE VILLA.

BESIDE ME IS THE SEA THAT ROMAN SAILORS NAVIGATED; BENEATH ME, A SECOND-CENTURY VILLA; AND ALL AROUND ARE THE SPIRITS OF ANOTHER AGE.

FROM CAMPAGNA, I'M RUDY MAXA.

ARRIVIDERCI AND CIAO.

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CALL 800-866-7425 FOR THE TWO-EPISODE DVD OR VIDEO ON ROME DAY TRIPS AND THE DALMATIAN COAST.

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CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION CAPTIONED BY THE NATIONAL CAPTIONING INSTITUTE --www.ncicap.org-- MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS" IS PROVIDED BY EXPEDIA.COM, A TRAVEL WEBSITE THAT OFFERS TRAVELERS A VARIETY OF WAYS TO CREATE THE TRIP THEY'RE LOOKING FOR, INCLUDING FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES.

EXPEDIA.COM: DON'T JUST TRAVEL.

TRAVEL RIGHT.

TRANSATLANTIC AND EUROPEAN FLIGHTS PROVIDED IN PART BY bmi, AN AWARD-WINNING FULL-SERVICE AIRLINE BASED IN THE UNITED KINGDOM.

WITH MORE THAN 2,000 FLIGHTS A WEEK TO OVER 35 DESTINATIONS, bmi FLIES MORE THAN 9 MILLION PASSENGERS A YEAR.