(bells chiming) - [Lynn] I'm Lynn Elmhirst.

I'm a travel journalist with a deep passion for sailing the high seas.

My most cherished travel experiences have been by water.

The spectacular scenery, fascinating ships, and maritime traditions you can only experience when you cruise.

When the whole world went into dry dock, I bided my time by diving into my library of footage to relive some of my favorite travel memories on the "World's Greatest Cruises."

(upbeat music) Many European river cruises wind through several countries, but a cruise along the Rhone is a purely French affair.

- Bon jour!

- Bon jour!

- [Lynn] We're among just 150 guests on board the Amadagio sailing up river from Arles to Lyon.

Our voyage follows the primary waterway of the fabled south of France, where the water's kissed by sunshine, the river banks are dotted by historic towns and rise to steep hills covered in vineyards that produce some very famous wines.

No surprise that land also nurtures some of France's iconic flavors and on "World's Greatest Cruises" today, we're on a culinary river tour de France.

The Rhone river's an ancient communications route that even predates the Romans in what we now call France.

Our river cruise retraces that historic route through the countryside and between the riverside towns of the south of France.

You could drive our route in about half a day, but taking the week long slow boat helps connect us to the authentic spirit of the river and dive into the culinary magic of the south of France.

Before where we sail away, we do a little walkabout in Arles.

Two of the town's most famous landmarks date from about a millennium apart.

It's amphitheater is an unmistakable relic of Roman times and a cafe immortalized in a painting by Van Gogh a mere century ago, is still picture perfect and serving customers in the square today.

Away from the river banks, the rolling hills of Provence are covered, not in vineyards but olive groves.

- In the Valley Les Baux, it's special place for olive trees because we have lot of little producers.

And when it's time, when the fruit is ready, they pick all the olives.

And after, they bring to us to the mill, to press and make the olive oil.

(olive tray shaking) - So these trees are only about 12 years old?

- Yes, yes.

- Yes.

- You can see, we have only one trunk.

You can recognize like this.

- Oh, so if it's one trunk, it's a young tree.

- Yes, exactly right.

Uh-oh, we haven't got the rake the most important.

- It looks like something I would use at the beach.

- Yes!

(both laughing) - Perfect, this is the technical equipment.

- Yes.

- So you're gonna show me the good technique?

- Yes.

- Okay.

- So you can see, you have the case and the net is like this.

- So the net catches the olives, goes in the case.

- Exactly.

- Voila.

- Voila, yeah this is the word in French.

(both laughing) So you take the branch and like this.

- So you get lots of leaves too, I see.

- Yes.

You want to try?

- Of course I do, thank you.

- And once we begin a tree, we harvest all the olives.

- And you're not worried about- - Quickly, quickly, quickly, quickly.

- Oh quickly.

(both laughing) - Work faster!

So how many, we didn't get too many.

How many olives or what's the weight of a good tree?

Would you say, "Oh, this was a good year."

- So the average 20 kilos per tree.

- And 20 kilos then makes 20% of that would become olive oil.

- Four liters.

- Four liters of olive oil from one tree on average.

- Yes.

- Per year.

- Yes.

- So olive oil should be more expensive.

(Lynn laughs) - Yes, when you work like this- - [Lynn] It's a boutique product.

- [Charline] Yes.

- Yes.

The ancient Greeks who introduced olive trees to France 2,500 years ago, wouldn't recognize these modern machines but the process of turning olives into olive oil has remained basically the same since the very beginning.

The olives are first washed to remove any dirt.

Then they're crushed to release the oil trapped in cells, inside the fruit.

And since as we know, oil and water don't mix using a bit of water helps separate the olive oil from the rest of the mash.

So oil comes out here.

- [Charline] Yes.

- And the water in the residue goes out the back.

- [Charline] Yes.

- So this is the final step.

- Yes, exactly.

- And is this what we're going to taste?

- I'm going to show you.

- Okay.

- You take and... - Around your mouth.

- [Charline] Yes.

- Okay.

- Very special, very green.

Come yes, the side of the tongue.

- Mm.

- It's fresh.

It's the grass, it's bitter.

- But you're right.

So fresh and the grass is amazing.

- So the olive oil straight out of the pipe.

(Lynn laughs) - Yes.

- Is just fresh and these are different?

These are older.

- No.

This one is the same.

- Ah, the same.

It's the first day's we pressed.

And this one is one year old.

- Ah, and is one year like the optimal time to taste olive oil?

- The optimal time is six months after the production and after it doesn't change during two years.

- Oh okay.

- So now it's not and can you see the color?

- The color, yes.

- This one is very clear and all the sediment stays in the container.

The big containers you could see.

- So this is very filtered now.

- [Charline] Yes, but it's not filter.

It's a sedimentation.

- [Lynn] Right.

- [Charline] It's natural.

- The sediments fall to the bottom.

- Exactly.

- They stay in the tank, the oil goes in the bottle.

- Exactly.

- Gotcha.

- And here.

- Right so this one's much thicker looking and greener looking too.

- Exactly.

- Ah, so shall we try?

- Yes.

- Okay.

- So the same way.

- Same technique.

- Yes.

- Into your mouth, you don't just drink it.

- No.

- Move it around your mouth.

- Yes.

- Mm.

- And you tasted the grass, but it's not.... - It's different, it's smoother.

- Exactly.

- It's smoother now and the grass comes later.

- Yes.

- I think.

- And can you- - And now I got the spice.

- Yes.

(Lynn laughs) - And can you taste the artichoke flavor.

- Artichoke, yes now.

So you're talking like a wine expert.

- Exactly.

- This is how, tasting notes for wine.

So olive oil is the same?

They have tasting notes?

- Yes.

- And also they taste like the terroir, the land that they came from.

- Exactly, exactly.

You have the variety that brings the flavors and also one variety in a special place, bring one special flavor.

- A relaxed daytime sailing's one of the joys of river cruising.

The small size of our ship makes it feel like a home away from home.

And it also ensures we fit through the navigational canals and locks.

The room may have been a vital route in the south of France since before the Romans.

But there have been a few modern improvements like these locks, which allow our Amadagio to climb the falls as we go up the river.

(boat horn blaring) (upbeat jazz music) As we dock along the way, the Amadagio actually restocks with fresh and local food products.

- This is the best place in Avignon where you can buy the most fresh products.

And we do it every week to come into the local markets and get the freshest products that you can get.

- [Lynn] So what would you say the Avignon Market is the best for?

The best, what?

- Well, when you are in the Provence region, obviously everything that comes to fruits and vegetables, they are the freshest you can get.

But also not only, you have one of the best regions for certain cheeses.

And the charcuterie in this particular region of France is very rich.

- [Lynn] So the cured meats.

- Yes.

- [Lynn] Cured meats is beautiful here?

- [Luis] Yes, excellent.

- Excellent.

So is this where you get your charcuterie?

Your cured meat?

- Yes, he has really traditional handmade ones.

So this is definitely one of the points that I will like to come and do my purchase.

(Luis speaking in French) (relaxing jazz music) (Luis speaking in French) Even has some escargots inside, wow.

- [Lynn] Sorry?

- Even has some escargots inside.

- Even has a snail.

It has a live snail in it still, that's fresh.

(Luis speaking in French) - Of course it's fresh.

- So it's two in one.

- Yes.

- You'll have the (speaking in French) and you will have (speaking in French) escargots.

(Luis speaking in French) - And now is cheese?

Is cheese your guilty pleasure when you're at the market?

- Oh my God.

Oh my god, I can be arrested for.

(Lynn laughs) (Luis speaking in French) I love all this kind of (indistinct) region cheeses, the semi-hard cheeses.

There are something really- - Really special?

- Oh my God.

(clerk speaking in French) (Luis speaking in French) (Lynn speaking in French) - Of course every chef need (speaking in French) rose salt.

Can't you just think of a million things to use rose salt in?

I'm gonna have to think for a minute to figure one out.

I'm very excited to be looking at macaron.

I think we need some, you have to have a macaron.

Cheers.

- Cheers.

- Cheers.

- Breakfast of champions.

(all laughing) (butcher singing in French) - He's singing (Lynn speaking in French).

(butcher speaking in French) (Lynn speaking in French) (cheerful jazz music) We went shopping this morning with Luis and we went to the beautiful market in Avignon.

So what are we going to make today?

- It's appetizer with grilled vegetables, arugula, French cold cuts, goat cheese crustini, and cheery tomatoes.

- Right so these are some of the things for example, these cured meats we bought in the market this morning.

- Yes.

- Some cheese, the arugula, you took the snail out though.

There was a snail in there, did you see it?

- No, the snail is stealing still inside.

- He's still there.

- No, of course it's outside.

(Lynn laughs) Well, little protein never hurt anyone, right?

So what's our first step and make me do some work.

What can I do?

- What can I do?

Well, first I just prepared already, this is the grilled vegetables.

- So, you've done a lot of work already.

We're doing the easy part now.

- The easy part.

We just prepare this grilled (Chef Richard speaking in French).

- So grilled (Lynn speaking in French) or eggplant.

- Zucchini.

- And zucchini.

- Yes, bell peppers.

- So these are all very local (Lynn speaking in French) and zucchini, very Provencal flavors.

- Yes, of course.

- Yes?

- Of course.

(Chef Richard speaking in French) - [Lynn] Mushrooms.

- It's all grilled, salt and pepper, then you can put the cold cuts.

- The colds cuts.

- You have three different ones this- - [Lynn] yes.

- Then you make arugula.

You wanting both in the morning just put salt and pepper.

- Salt and pepper, and now let me guess, olive oil in balsamic vinegar?

- Yes.

- [Lynn] Perfect.

- Vinegar and olive oil.

- Fresh Provence olive oil.

- Yes, I will put some cherry tomatoes inside here.

- Ah, perfect.

Look at how ripe they are, perfectly ripe.

- Perfect.

- You just marinate, toss it.

- Lightly mix it up, perfect.

- And you put it on the plate.

Cherry tomatoes on top.

- Cherry tomatoes.

- And then end we put a go cheese baguette or you can use also toast bread.

- So what did you do here?

- You just chop the goat cheese and- - On toast?

- [Chef Richard] On toast- - Basically?

- And (indistinct) it.

- Perfect.

Chef, can you tell us about our dish?

- This is called the salad de chef for short, which is grilled vegetables, French cold cuts, arugula marinated with balsamic and olive oil, and goat cheese baguette.

- Okay, ready one, two, three.

Mm, that's wonderful.

- [Chef Richard] It's good?

- A taste of Provence.

Just to show you our market trip and cooking demonstration, weren't all for the cameras, our Provencal salad had a place of honor or on the menu that evening during the festive Provencal themed night.

Even the serving staff dressed the part.

So I got to see just how much my fellow cruise guests love the local flavors as much as I do.

(fog horn blaring) (upbeat jazz music music) (Bossa Nova music) Traveling by land, you might only hit up the major cities on your route, but our river ship docks in off the beaten track places close to some of the real treasures of Provence.

Bon jour.

- Bon jour.

- Nice to meet you.

We're on an early morning culinary quest for France's famous truffles.

And we discover that truffle hunting is a dog's life.

So these are truffles.

I didn't realize there were so many different types of truffles.

- This is a black winter truffle.

We find this truffle November to March.

This is the beginning of the season.

And this is autumn truffle.

We find this truffle October to January and the white Italian winter truffle, the most expensive tr in the world.

Very famous.

- These are the very famous truffles.

- We just find a few truffles like this.

And a lot of black winter truffle.

- The room is just... (Lynn inhales) The room is such a powerful smell.

It's really, do you love this smell?

- Yes.

- Yes, of course.

And all of these truffles grow here?

- Yes, yes.

Just a few this one, a few this one, and a lot black winter truffle.

- So are truffles a happy accident or can you farm them so you know you have truffles.

- Yes, we produce truffle tree and we plant truffle tree.

- And do you plant not truffle seeds, but do you take spores to plant?

- [Gilles] Yes.

- [Lynn] You do?

- [Gilles] Yes.

- So you're seeding?

- Yes.

- The truffles around the trees.

- Yes.

- Ah, I see.

And how long does it, this one for example, look how big this truffle is.

Can I let her smell it?

Oh, not lick it.

(Lynn laughs) Just smell.

And this is not even the biggest truffle, right?

Is this a big truffle, average size, small?

- Average is like this.

- Average like this.

So how long does it take to grow that?

Is that one year?

- Yes one year.

All black winter truffle born in May.

And grow May to November now.

And how much in maturity, November too much.

- So I have a question.

So we've seen one of your dogs.

Where are the pigs?

I thought it was pigs.

- No, we never use pigs.

My great-grandfather in 1870 used dogs.

- Dogs.

- Yes.

- It's not easy to have a pig at home.

(Lynn laughs) - I guess not.

So tell us about the dogs.

How do you train them to find truffles?

- When we need dog, we buy a puppy.

Nine weeks old, very early.

And when the puppy arrive at home, it eats some piece of truffle to love the taste of the truffle.

After we hide the truffle in the soil to learn to the puppy to dig the truffle.

And after a few weeks it's okay, we have a good dog for the truffle.

- That's it?

A few weeks of training and that's good.

- Yeah it's a few weeks, but we have a very good dog after two years.

And a very, very good dog after four years.

- Ah, I see.

So the dogs get to eat truffles that's a very spoiled dog, no?

- Yes, the dog love the taste of the truffle.

- [Lynn] Oh, we're ready to get some truffles.

- [Gilles] Let's go!

(Lynn laughs) - Gonna get some truffles.

(cheerful jazz music) - Aria.

(Gilles whistles) - She's ready to go.

She's very excited.

- Yes.

- Oh, a treat?

- One.

- Two treats.

- Two, to begin.

(Gilles speaking in French) - She's found one?

You think she has one?

(Gilles speaking in French) This is so exciting, it's like treasure hunt.

(Lynn laughs) (Gilles speaking in French) - Let it go.

- Ah, it's here.

- [Lynn] No?

- Yes, yes.

- It is, we found one!

Let's see?

- It's a white truffle, it's name is (Gilles speaks in French).

- His name is tuber?

- There exist about 30 variety of truffles.

- Ah, and so this is a white one?

- The smell is very good.

It's a variety.

- So we (indistinct) good work.

Good work, good dog!

Success!

(Lynn laughs) The dog got her treats and now we get one too.

A truffle tasting.

Ah, the truffle and a shaver.

- To wash a truffle with water and brush.

Voila.

And after we just- - Look, she wants that truffle.

(Lynn laughs) (truffle shaving) - Want to try?

- Yes, I'd like to try.

So I just... (truffle shaving) - Voila, quickly.

- Very quickly.

Ah, there you go and very thin.

Wafer thin slices, look at that.

- A few olive oil.

- Ah, olive oil on top of there?

Nice, little olive oil.

Okay so I'll do little salt.

So toast, and truffle, and olive oil, and salt.

The perfect- - [Gilles] It's okay, yes.

- [Lynn] The perfect combination?

- It's very good.

Cheers.

- Cheers.

Mm.

Mm.

I think we have to cut because I don't think I want to talk and lose the flavor.

(Lynn laughs) It's like the forest is alive in my mouth.

(Lynn laughs) (cheery jazz riff) (French jazz music) Our sail in to Lyon marks where the Rhone and the Saone rivers converge.

Lyon is France's third largest city, but it has one of Europe's largest intact Renaissance districts.

Forget Paris, Lyon is France's culinary capital where delicious food doesn't always have to be fancy.

Getting a crepe.

You have to when you come to France, you have to get a street crepe and eat it in your hand, walking down the street.

(Lynn speaking in French) A lemon crepe, the classic.

Just simple lemon and sugar.

(Lynn chef kisses) Mm, simplest thing, best street food ever.

As we sail through wine region after wine region along the Rhone, you're probably wondering where's the wine?

Well, it's everywhere.

Including onboard where local wines are part of our daily dining experience and shipboard tastings of local wines connect us to the terroir.

The unique qualities of the vineyards growing along the river banks as we sail past.

As we navigate further north up the Rhone, we leave the Provence and the Rhone Valley wine regions and my beloved Beaujolais.

- [Pascal] After you.

- Oh, thank you.

- So I want to show you my vineyards.

- I would love to see your vineyards.

- Because we taste wine perhaps we can, ask me where are your vineyards?

Here.

- [Lynn] Right here.

Out the back door.

- [Pascal] Yeah.

- [Lynn] And these are your Gamay Noir grapes.

- [Pascal] Yes.

- Good to see there grapes on the vine.

It's good time of year, we're lucky.

And so how many hectares of grapes do you have?

- I have not all here, but we work for 26 hectares.

- [Lynn] And how many bottles of wine can you produce every year?

- In all my production, half is sell to a cellar man.

- [Lynn] Oh, okay.

- And other bottle.

And bottle it's 44.. (Pascal speaking in French) (Lynn speaking in French) - 40,000.

- Thank you.

- 40,000.

- You help me.

- My pleasure.

- In general people know Nou Beaujolais.

Because Nou Beaujolais everybody knew in the world.

- Everyone talks about Beaujolais Nouveau.

- So I want to present them another one wine make.

So we have grapes.

The name of the grapes it's Black Gamay with white juice.

It's the name of the grapes.

- [Lynn] Right.

- In your country, every people try to find or buy some wine with the name of the grapes.

So in France we choose the wine with the place where it's made.

- Right.

- Is different, okay?

- Right.

- So we use name of the wine not the name of the grape.

- So the name of the wine is about the region.

- [Pascal] Yeah.

- Of the wine not the grape.

(cork pops) (wine pouring) - Please.

- Thank you.

- So in Beaujolais we drink like this.

You (indistinct) your glass and you see me.

- Of course.

- Yes because it's, you're my friend now.

- Yes that's right.

(cheering in French) Mm, that's a tasty wine.

- It's a Beaujolais.

It's a wine in general for France.

It's easy to open.

It's not very expensive and it's very good.

- So the next one we try is the rose.

- [Pascal] Yes.

- Perfect.

So this is Gamay Noir grape?

- Yes with white juice.

- With white juice.

- Okay, you learn.

- I am learning, yes.

(bottle pops) Best sound in the world.

- [Pascal] Okay.

- [Lynn] Okay.

(wine pouring) - So you see, when you smell it's very, very, very kind.

- It is very kind.

- Not strong.

- [Lynn] It's fresh and- - [Pascal] Exactly.

- And you can drink more.

(Lynn laughs) So now we taste the red?

- Let's try the red.

- Only if you want.

- If you insist.

(Lynn laughs) - I insist.

- A good Nou Beaujolais you must have in your glass, a lot of flower, a lot of smell, and less in color, not so red.

It's not very (indistinct).

- Yes.

- So you can see, before taste it's a young wine.

And more, it's more and more brown it's a old one.

- The older wine, yes.

- Okay, so in first you see.

- You look, okay.

- Second one, you smell.

And three, you taste.

- And three you taste, cheers.

Mm, yummy.

So what do you taste in this?

What do you, so it's floral.

- I said it perhaps in French, you smell cassis and (Pascal speaks in French).

- Ah, so first smell is black currents and the second is gooseberries.

- Some years I make a very good wine, another less.

Yes, it's true.

But in start, it's nature.

She give you a very nice grapes, you have more chances to make a nice, nice wine.

So when you ask me what's best, I said next year's.

(Lynn chuckles) - Or the next glass.

And on our last evening, we get to say farewell to our newfound friends on board and celebrate our shared experience cruising along France's fabled Rhone River.

Until next time on world's greatest cruises, wishing you fair winds and following seas.

(Bossa Nova music) More information about "World's Greatest Cruises" and the ship and ports of call featured in today's program on our website at www.worldsgreatestcruises.com.

Next time on "World's Greatest Cruises," America's last frontier.

We cruise along the coast of Alaska for its North Pacific seaside scenery, wildlife sightings, and seafood treats.

Thank you.

Oh, I just got myself in the eye.

(Lynn laughing) - Alaska, crabs.

(Lynn laughs)