(bell dings) - I'm Lynn Elmhirst.

I'm a travel journalist with a deep passion for sailing the high seas.

My most cherished travel experiences have been by water.

The spectacular scenery, fascinating ships and maritime traditions you can only experience when you cruise.

When the whole world went into dry dock, I bided my time by diving into my library of footage to relive some of my favorite travel memories on the World's Greatest Cruises.

Today on World's Greatest Cruises, we celebrate a river of wine.

We're sailing on an AmaWaterways river cruise along France's fabled Rhone River, embarking in the south of France at Arles and sailing upriver to Lyon.

This is not specifically a wine cruise.

AmaWaterways does operate wine themed cruises, but sailing along the Rhone takes us through some of the most renowned wine regions of France.

Local wine weaves its way through our on board and AmaWaterways shore experiences from wine pairings and gastronomic dinners, tastings and educational experiences on our ship to meeting winemakers and learning how the river's unique lands have shaped these prized wines.

And we meet other makers who also preserve traditions of the region's unique soil.

Our journey continues with a post cruise extension celebrating one of my own favorite wines, champagne.

How could I resist?

We disembark so close to the region that gave its name to this famous wine.

It even makes the angels smile.

I often quote Winston Churchill's quip about champagne, "In triumph I deserve it, in tragedy I need it!"

And luckily, our AmaWaterways river cruise on the Rhone and my personal post-cruise pilgrimage to Champagne is one triumph after another, including meeting someone who's name is on the bottle of one of the last family-owned French champagne houses to vineyard and cave explorations and maybe the most unexpected place to taste champagne in the region today, in the treetops.

When it comes to a wine river cruise in France, I like to say, "There's no place like Rhone."

The Greeks brought viticulture to the south of France in the 4th century.

But it was the Romans who established the Rhone as their north-south highway from the Mediterranean into the Alps and recognizing the valuable wine terrain along the way.

The Rhone is a long river, over 500 miles.

Storied vineyards are rooted along both banks from below the Burgundy wine region in the north down to Provence in the south.

One of our Ports of Call took us to a famous appellation where we learned what makes many Rhone wines so unique.

With different climates and soils and grape varietals, there's one thing Rhone wines have in common, the river itself.

The glaciers that carved out the Rhone river valley millennia ago, are responsible for some of the steepest vineyards in all of France.

Drainage and sun and wind exposure nurture vines.

The different soils and heat give them unique character.

- This estate was created in the 12th century.

St. Peray was one of the first nine appellations in France in 1936 when the appellations were created.

And one of the first four in the Rhone valley.

Here, we only produce white wine, still white wine and sparkling white wine, which is unique to this appellation in the Rhone valley.

In St. Peray, you have limestone.

And actually one reason why St. Peray is called St. Peray is because Peray is a corruption of 'pierre' which means 'stone'.

And it's because of the limestone here and like Chateau Crussol is made of limestone.

That's like the rocky soil here.

(Remis speaking in French) - This soil is the limestone.

Very important for the taste of wine.

(Remis speaking in French) The taste of wine.

(Remis speaking in French) Is coming the soil.

- Inside, we get to taste the effect of this specific 'terroir' in the wine.

So it's fermenting in these oak barrels and you could smell it and you can hear it.

It's very busy in there.

- So Remis, now we get to taste.

(Lynn speaking in French) - Yes.

(Remis speaking in French) With white wine St. Peray appellation.

- And this is the famous wine for this appellation?

- Yes.

- I'm interested for you to tell me why the unique flavor.

- The limestone.

- So, the limestone and it's a smoky flavor?

- Yes, smoky flavor.

- And that's the 'terroir' of the limestone.

- You see the color of the wine.

(Remis speaking in French) - Ah, gold color.

- Gold, gold color.

(Remis speaking in French) - And a little bit green.

- Yes.

- And when you smell it, you smell the.

(Remis speaking in French) - Peaches, apricots, very fresh summer fruits?

- Yes.

- Hmm, it's delicious.

- Yes, it is strong and thin and you have long time in the mouth.

- It does.

Yes, that lingers in your mouth.

- And the second white wine of domain is Caveau la Beylesse.

This wine is made in oak barrel in one year.

- So ages one year in oak barrel?

- Yes, my favorite wine.

- I see.

- Yes.

It's more complex when you smell the wine and when you taste in the mouth and more long time in the mouth.

- Ah!

I can smell already.

- The difference.

- The difference, yes.

Much richer, I think.

(both speaking in French) - It's the same grapes.

All the difference is the selection of grapes and oak barrel.

- Can I taste now?

- You taste the.

(Remis speaking in French) - Vanilla?

- Yes.

- You have the fruits.

(speaking in French) Same as this wine.

And you have the.

(speaking in French) - Hazelnuts.

Hazelnuts, perfect!

Okay.

Hmm, much richer complex.

- Yes.

(Remis speaking in French) - Yes, very big in your mouth and I can taste the oak too.

This is beautiful.

Maybe this is my favorite wine now too.

- Yes.

- Cheers, thank you.

Cheers!

- [Lynn] Sailing north upriver on the Rhone through changing landscapes, we discover the unique terrain of the Rhone river valley doesn't just manifest itself in wine, you also need vessels to serve and drink it.

Apparently the banks of the Rhone are full of clay.

You can imagine for hundreds and hundreds of years, people in this region have been using clay for clay tiles for the roofs and pots.

But over the years, the ancient ways have died out.

Nowadays in this region, there is apparently only one potter left who keeps these traditions alive.

And today, we get to meet him.

(both speaking in French) Nice to meet you.

(both speaking in French) This is beautiful here.

(both speaking in French) - [Lynn] It's a 200-year-old workshop.

(Lynn speaking in French) (Potter speaking in French) - So, his style now, retains this sort of country rustic style of pottery, animals and he wants people to have a sort of smile on their face.

Have you been a potter all your life?

(both speaking in French) 38 years.

(both speaking in French) So he had a chance to apprentice with the potter who was here before.

(both speaking in French) - [Lynn] So, three years of apprentice.

(Potter speaking in French) So, three years of apprenticeship, but really you need seven years of study and practice to be a good potter.

So can I learn now?

- Yes, sure.

- Okay.

What are we making today?

(Potter speaking in French) - Ah!

A little lesson, and I have a feeling this is gonna get messy.

(Lynn laughs) (Potter speaking in French) - So, five gestures, five hand movements we have to learn.

(Potter speaking in French) - To center the clay.

(Potter speaking in French) - Push it really hard.

(Potter speaking in French) - And keep it steady.

(Potter speaking in French) - [Lynn] Okay, so the second thing, with your thumb, push in.

(Potter speaking in French) - [Lynn] Okay.

(Potter speaking in French) - [Lynn] Third thing.

(Potter speaking in French) - Like a fork, okay.

Of course, we know I have zero artistic talent.

So we'll see.

I have a feeling it's not gonna go quite so smoothly for me.

(both speaking in French) So to bring out the waist.

(Potter speaking in French) - Left hand inside, right hand on the outside, creating the shape.

(Potter speaking in French) - Almost hold your breath.

You have to keep it so still.

(Potter speaking in French) - The fifth thing.

(Potter speaking in French) - Ah, so the lip of the edge.

(both speaking in French) Oh, it is very soft still.

And now we have this pot.

(Lynn speaking in French) For now.

(Lynn gasps) (Potter speaking in French) - Okay, I will try it now.

(Lynn laughs) In the middle.

(Potter speaking in French) (Both breathe in and out) - Okay.

(Potter speaking in French) - Get your hands wet.

(Potter speaking in French) - More water.

(Potter speaking in French) - As strong as you can.

(Potter speaking in French) - Okay, with your thumb, try to make a hole.

(both speaking in French) Oh, too much.

Get more water.

(Potter speaking in French) - I think this is where I got a two in kindergarten and it was an ash tray.

(Lynn laughs) (Potter speaking in French) - Ah, like a fork.

(both speaking in French) Not too much force.

(both speaking in French) It'll take three more years to be any good.

(both laugh) (Potter speaking in French) - Left hand on the inside, right hand on the outside.

Ah, I feel it.

There really is a magic to the strength of your touch.

Too strong, it destroys, too little and it doesn't react.

You really have to like close your eyes and feel the clay.

And let go very gently.

It's not bad.

It's a little uneven.

(Lynn laughs) (both speaking in French) Now, you cut it off.

(Potter speaking in French) - Okay, I can do this.

(Potter speaking in French) - That works.

So now, I have the pleasure of destroying my creation.

The sense of satisfaction.

Three, two, one.

(Both laugh) (both speaking in French) Our week-long cruise comes to its final port in Lyon.

But our journey's not over.

Our post-cruise extension is in what may be the most famous wine region in the world.

Everyone knows the name, Champagne.

This is my first visit to the region that gave its name to the famously bubbly wine that makes any occasion a celebration.

It may surprise you to learn, champagne is on the northern limits of wine's production world wide, a UNESCO world heritage site on the same parallel as the US-Canada border.

But this is no North Dakota or Manitoba climate and here, the soil is chalky, storing heat from the sun, allowing for drainage and light and refined wines.

The great champagne houses took root here beginning in the 1700's.

The villages and towns of the region are rooted in history as the cradle of sparkling wine.

(speaking French) The famous wine of champagne is made with bubbles.

It's a protected process.

It's a protected name.

The real champagne is only from Champagne in France.

What's particular in Champagne it's the climate, the grapes, the process which is specific and that altogether make the famous champagne.

In Champagne, you got three of four main series, Epernay, which is the capital of Champagne.

If you come to Champagne, I think you gonna come back very soon.

- So I think, it's the best moment of the day.

- The best moment of the day?

- Yeah.

Tasting champagne.

- Tasting champagne.

I like your ideas.

(both laughing) Champagne has come a long way since they figured out how to trap bubbles created by fermentation inside wine bottles using the 'methode champenoise'.

- We begin the tasting with this champagne coming from the North of Reimes, in the Montagne de Reims region, where you have only chardonnay inside this one.

And champagne, the chardonnay is made for the aperitive.

Nothing else, only aperitive.

- [Lynn] Only aperitive.

- Indistinct is at the center of the different valley (speaking French) So, it's very very easy to have all of the different tastings possible to have in champagne, because we're the center of the region.

- Center of the champagne universe.

- Yes.

(both laugh) So you begin with the first one, the chardonnay, please.

- Cheers!

- Cheers!

- So tell me what you think about it.

- It's very light.

- Yes, so now try midori champagne.

This one is coming from the Condrieau village.

It's a very famous village where you have pinot noir and just group of chardonnay.

So this is the highest level of the appellation.

Very very high.

Really really.

It's one of the best we have here.

- Really?

- Yeah.

- Mh, it's sweeter, first of all, and much richer flavor.

- You have a nice palate, really.

- Thank you.

- It's not easy to taste the champagne because we have indistinct black grapes.

Pinot noir and pinot minus.

But we make not red wine, just white wine.

- Right, right here in Champagne?

- And at Champagne, we just press the grapes and take off the skins.

- This was the pinot minus?

- Yes, and the pinot minus in champagne is the fruity.

You have these kind of grapes everywhere in Champagne.

But the real valley for this grape is in the direction of Paris, the valley Llama.

- That is very fruity.

- Yeah, really.

It's possible to heat with this kind of champagne.

Not for the first one with chardonnay because it's too light for that.

But with this kind of champagne, every time, everywhere, likely hot.

- [Lynn] And then for this one.

- Yes, for this one, now you have indistinct black grapes.

It's bloody and fruity wine.

But we put the coteaux champegnois, the still wine just made with the pinot noir.

So it's very fruity.

And rosé in Champagne is really the champagne.

- [Lynn] Well, it's the champagne of celebration.

- Yes, but we drink it.

- Any time.

- Any time.

- There's always something to celebrate.

(Lynn laughing) - They are very different kind of champagne because you have the red fruit.

It's very very interesting.

And you have this kind of taste only in rosé.

- So with so many choices, do you have a favorite?

- No, depends the moment of the day.

If it's for my business or with my friends, there's no good time for the champagne.

We enjoy to drink it every day.

- Of course.

- It's our wine region.

It's our wine.

For us, in Champagne, it's not only for the important moments in our life, it's every time, everyday if it's possible.

- I think it's possible.

- Yes, and me too.

Welcome in champagne.

- [Lynn] Thank you.

Even before the wine of Champagne became sparkling, Reims was a city of celebration, nicknamed 'Coronation City' as traditionally, the kings of France were crowned in its 1000-year-old cathedral.

Much of its stained glass is more recent though following war damage, like the heavenly blue stained glass by modernist artist Chagall.

And the windows celebrating the wines of Champagne and the contributions of local Dom Perignon.

But maybe my favorite work of art is 'the Smiling Angel' statue whose delight pretty clearly to me comes from the invisible glass of wine she seems to be holding.

It's also home to one of the last remaining family-owned champagne houses with a modern cathedral to champagne built right over top of its chalk champagne caves.

- So we're going back in time now.

It's not very modern anymore.

So how old are these caves?

- They have two origins, 4th century, 13th century.

4th century was a Gallo-Romans.

And the 13th century was the Benedictictine monks.

- [Lynn] And how many bottles are there down here?

- [Tour Guide] We have nearly 3 million bottles stacked.

- [Lynn] 3 million bottles?

- [Tour Guide] Yes.

- [Lynn] My goodness!

This bottle is bigger than my head.

- [Tour Guide] The cellar workers come in, turning them.

- [Lynn] Turning them?

- [Tour Guide] Yes.

- [Lynn] Do many people visit here?

- [Tour Guide] A lot of people.

We receive nearly 60,000 people each year.

- [Lynn] Really?

From everywhere in the world?

- [Tour Guide] Yes, everywhere.

- [Lynn] So who's that?

- It's St. John, the baptist.

- St. John, the baptist?

- Yes.

- What's he doing here?

- [Tour Guide] He's the patron center of the cellar workers here in Champagne.

- Do they get his day off?

- Yeah, they get a day off once a year in June.

- [Lynn] For him?

- [Tour Guide] Yeah.

- So, all this chalk, the soil must be very chalky here.

- Yes, and this is really typical of this Champagne region and that's the thing that gives to the champagne, very mineral taste and it's unique taste.

- So that's why champagne from here tastes like no other type of sparkling wine in the world?

- Exactly.

- Look at this wall of bottles!

Do you know how many there are?

- Yes, we've got here over 95,000 bottles.

- Oh, it's right on the sign.

- Yes, and it's written here.

- [Lynn] Oh, my goodness.

- [Tour Guide] We say sometimes like a pool of champagne.

- [Lynn] Oh it is!

So 95,687, unless I take one.

- Yes.

(both laugh) - So, we're going deeper.

- Yes.

Actually this is the deepest part of this cellar.

Now we're nearly 20 meters underground.

- 20 meters?

- To me, it's the most beautiful place here.

- Oh, looks like a cathedral for champagne.

- [Tour Guide] Yes, it is.

- [Lynn] Back on ground level, we get to discover what the love of champagne is like as a family affair.

(Lynn speaking in French) It's so nice to meet you.

(speaking in French) So what are we drinking?

Which champagne are we drinking?

- We will drink.

We'll taste.

(champagne bottle pops) - Oh, beautiful sound.

- Very good noise.

- We will taste the Brutesere, which is the most important for us because it's about 80% of our production.

So, cheers!

- Cheers!

- So you have in this champagne, a blend of chardonnay, 40% and the rest in pinot noir and pinot minus.

This wine is really comfortable and easy to drink.

We try to do the same every year, just to be faithful to our consumers.

- And what is the future of Taittinger?

Where are you going next?

- I hope we will continue to keep this business in family and I really hope that we will continue to work here with the 250 people.

They are making the champagne with love here.

And I hope that it will continue in the same spirit.

- There is something about the word 'champagne' that is really magic for people.

- It means love, it means party, it means family, it means celebration, it means happiness to many beautiful things and fantastic symbol for us.

So our job is to make very good wine and to nourish this symbol.

- Well, I will drink to that.

Cheers!

I have done a lot of tasting here in Champagne already.

But as I like to say, the last time I turned down a glass of champagne, I didn't understand the question.

Besides, there was one more champagne tasting I just couldn't miss, combining my love of this celebratory wine and my love of nature and outdoor life.

A tree house may be the most unusual place to drink champagne in the region, but it highlights how here, every moment is a champagne occasion.

That's a philosophy after my own heart.

- Thank you.

Cheers!

- Cheers!

- And I love how everything here is suspended, just like bubbles floating in champagne.

- We are in the Perching Bar.

This is a champagne bar in the trees and we are in the forest of the park regional de la Montagne de Reims.

There is the climbing park around the Perching Bar.

It was an idea to propose people who want to climb in the trees and after, to take a drink of champagne.

I think, from my precit, champagne, you need to taste in a place very special.

I have a friend who is architect.

This is Germain Morisseau.

This is a man who have realized the design inside.

All is suspending.

And this is the concept here because we are suspending the trees, the seats, which we are suspending too.

You have the bottle if champagne but they are suspended too.

The energy comes from the sun because we have nothing here.

We are in the forest.

We want to be in harmony with the nature here.

This is the concept of the Perching Bar.

- Until next time on World's Greatest Cruises, wishing you fair winds and following seas.

More information about World's Greatest Cruises and the ship and Ports of Call featured on today's program, on our website at www.worldsgreatescruises.com.

(bell chimes) Next time on World's Greatest Cruises, a Danube river cruise to discover the culture of Germany, Austria and Hungary.

The river takes us to the doorsteps of historic capitals through countryside scenery that highlights how the river played a part in history.

I get hands-on at a museum of the future.

Oh, the flip!

And I try my hand at some of the astonishing skills of real-life Hungarian cowboys.