AMERICAN PUBLIC TELEVISION PRESENTS THE SPLENDORS OF THE WORLD IN THE LIFELIKE REALITY OF HIGH-DEFINITION TELEVISION.

HI.

I'M RUDY MAXA.

THE PACIFIC RIM GLITTERS WITH EXOTIC DESTINATIONS AND PORTS OF CALL, BUT IF YOU'RE SEARCHING FOR ONE SPECIAL PLACE TO LEAVE YOUR HEART, THAT PLACE MIGHT JUST BE HERE, HIGH ON A HILL IN THE CITY BY THE BAY.

THIS TIME, WE'RE IN SAN FRANCISCO ON "SMART TRAVELS."

MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS WITH RUDY MAXA" IS PROVIDED BY... OVER THE YEARS, PUBLIC TELEVISION HAS SHOWN YOU THE WORLD, EDUCATED YOU ABOUT IT, AND INSPIRED YOU TO SEE IT FOR YOURSELF.

EXPEDIA CAN HELP YOU GET THERE, WITH FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES.

"SMART TRAVELS WITH RUDY MAXA" IS BROUGHT TO YOU IN PART BY THE PEOPLE AT EXPEDIA.

ADDITIONAL SUPPORT FROM MEDJETASSIST.COM, >> ADDITIONAL SUPPORT FROM MEDJETASSIST.COM.

MEDICAL EVACUATION MEMBERSHIP PROTECTION FOR TRAVELERS.

TAKE TRIPS, NOT CHANCES.

"SMART TRAVELS" IS A GRAND TOUR OF THE WORLD'S GREAT DESTINATIONS, THE PEOPLE, PLACES, AND UNIQUE LOCAL FLAVORS.

NOW TIPS, TRIPS, AND SECRET PLACES ON "SMART TRAVELS: PACIFIC RIM."

GOLDEN PORT PEERING THROUGH THE FOG, BEACON FOR ADVENTURERS, A FUSION OF CULTURES FLAUNTING A CHECKERED PAST-- SAN FRANCISCO'S VARIETY, ENERGY, AND OFF-BEAT SIGHTS ARE ENOUGH TO MAKE YOUR HEAD SPIN.

BUT IF THESE FAMOUS HILLS BRING ON A WAVE OF VERTIGO, DON'T WORRY.

THERE'S ALWAYS A FRESH BREEZE COMING IN FROM THE BAY TO BRING YOU TO YOUR SENSES.

SAN FRANCISCO'S DIVERSITY IS DIZZYING.

FOREIGN VISITORS SAY IT HAS THE MOST EUROPEAN FEEL OF ANY MAJOR AMERICAN CITY, BUT ASIAN, HISPANIC, AND A SLEW OF OTHER INFLUENCES WORK TO MAKE THIS ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST COLORFUL AND APPEALING DESTINATIONS.

[TROLLEY BELL DINGING] A NETWORK OF CITIES AND TOWNS CLUSTERED TOGETHER TO FORM THE SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA, BUT LOCALS ARE QUICK TO TELL YOU THAT ONLY SAN FRANCISCO PROPER IS REFERRED TO AS "THE CITY."

THIS TRIP, WE'LL BEGIN WITH SOME GREAT URBAN SIGHTS AND THEN HEAD NORTH TO THE SONOMA AND NAPA WINE COUNTRY.

SAN FRANCISCO'S FAMOUS FISHERMAN'S WHARF IS LAYERED IN HISTORY.

EARLY ON, THE EASILY NAVIGATED HARBOR ATTRACTED NATIVE AMERICANS AND EUROPEAN SETTLERS.

THEN THE GOLD RUSH OF 1849 TRANSFORMED THIS AREA FROM A SLEEPY VILLAGE OF A FEW HUNDRED PEOPLE TO A BOISTEROUS BOOMTOWN.

SOURDOUGH BREAD IS A TASTY TRADITION LEFT OVER FROM THOSE DAYS.

ALTHOUGH THE TANGY BREAD HAS ACTUALLY BEEN MADE IN ONE PLACE OR ANOTHER FOR AT LEAST 5,000 YEARS, IT HOLDS A SPECIAL PLACE IN THIS CITY'S HISTORY.

BACK IN 1849, WHEN GOLD WAS DISCOVERED IN "THEM THAR HILLS," THE GREAT RUSH WAS ON.

THOSE MINERS WORKED UP SOME FIERCE APPETITES WITH ALL THAT PANNING, BUT THEY OFTEN HAD TO GO FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME WITHOUT ACCESS TO FRESH FOOD.

SO THEY TOOK A PRIZED POSSESSION WITH THEM TO THE FIELDS-- A SOURDOUGH STARTER.

IN THE DAYS BEFORE COMMERCIAL YEAST, MINERS COULD BAKE LEAVENED BREAD IN CAMP, USING A STARTER, A MIX OF FLOUR, WATER, AND HELPFUL BACTERIA THAT COULD BE KEPT INDEFINITELY.

MEANWHILE, IN A TINY FRENCH BAKERY IN THE CITY, ISIDORE BOUDIN BEGAN FORMING SOURDOUGH INTO THE SHAPE OF TRADITIONAL FRENCH LOAVES.

INCREDIBLY, THE BAKERY'S BREAD IS STILL MADE WITH A PORTION OF THE ORIGINAL "MOTHER DOUGH" THAT DATES BACK TO THE VERY FIRST LOAF.

Man: THE SECRET ABOUT SOURDOUGH--THIS IS IT.

WE DON'T HAVE THIS, WE'RE OUT OF BUSINESS.

SO, DO YOU JUST TAKE A LITTLE BIT OFF TO START NEW EVERY DAY?

EVERY DAY.

HOW MUCH?

IMAGINE, IF THIS WAS MY LAST BATCH, OK, I'LL TAKE 3/4, AND I PUT FLOUR, WATER, AND SALT, AND THAT BECOMES BREAD, AND THE OTHER FOURTH, IT GETS REPLENISHED AGAIN FOR THE NEXT DAY.

SO GO AHEAD.

RIP IT.

RIP IT, AND THEN INHALE.

WHOA!

I HAVEN'T SMELLED THAT SINCE I'VE BEEN AT A BREWERY.

IT'S LIKE BEER.

[TROLLEY BELL DINGING] SAN FRANCISCO HAS SOMETHING TO SATISFY JUST ABOUT EVERY TRAVELER'S TASTES.

THERE ARE A THOUSAND ACRES OF NATURE AND ART IN GOLDEN GATE PARK AND A WORLD-CLASS OPERA HOUSE AND SYMPHONY HALL.

WE'RE HOPPING ABOARD THE ONLY NATIONAL HISTORIC LANDMARK THAT YOU CAN RIDE--A FAMOUS SAN FRANCISCO CABLE CAR-- TO CHECK OUT ONE OF THE CITY'S MUST-SEE NEIGHBORHOODS.

FROM EXOTIC RED AND GOLD LANTERNS TO THE PUNGENT AROMAS OF FOOD STALLS, CHINATOWN IS A SENSORY EXPLOSION.

MANY U.S. CITIES HAVE CHINATOWNS, BUT SAN FRANCISCO'S IS THE OLDEST, LARGEST, AND MOST VISUALLY STRIKING.

BEGINNING IN THE MID-1800's, IMMIGRANTS FROM CHINA CAME THROUGH THIS PORT CITY IN SEARCH OF GOLD, RAILROAD WORK, OR OTHER OPPORTUNITIES.

THIS NEIGHBORHOOD GREW INTO A HOME AWAY FROM HOME FOR THE TRANSPLANTED CHINESE, WHO COULD FIND FAMILIAR FOOD, NEWSPAPERS, AND WELCOMING FACES HERE.

AFTER THE DEVASTATING 1906 EARTHQUAKE, SOME CITY PLANNERS TRIED TO MOVE THE CHINESE TO A NEW LOCATION, BUT LOCAL LEADERS SAVED THE COMMUNITY FROM BEING UPROOTED.

WITH A LONG TRADITION OF ASIAN IMMIGRATION, IT'S NOT SURPRISING SAN FRANCISCO RECENTLY OPENED ONE OF THE LARGEST MUSEUMS IN THE WESTERN WORLD DEVOTED TO ASIAN ART.

THIS BUILDING, WHICH DATES TO 1917, WAS ONCE THE CITY'S MAIN LIBRARY.

IT WAS REDESIGNED BY THE SAME ARCHITECT WHO CONCEIVED THE MUSEE D'ORSAY IN PARIS.

AS THE MUSEUM'S CURATOR SUGGESTS, THE CONCEPT OF ASIA IS REALLY AN INVENTED LABEL GIVEN TO A DIVERSE GROUP OF CULTURAL REGIONS.

THE CURATOR STRUGGLED WITH HOW TO ORGANIZE SUCH A COMPLICATED SERIES OF COLLECTIONS.

ONE WAY WAS TO USE BUDDHISM AS A LOOSE ORGANIZING PRINCIPLE.

IT'S ONE OF THE FEW CULTURAL ELEMENTS PRESENT ALMOST EVERYWHERE IN ASIA.

SO YOU'LL SEE THE SLEEK, RELAXED IMAGES OF INDIA'S BUDDHA, THE GILDED METALWORK OF BURMESE ARTISTS, AND THE MORE SERIOUS REMOTE BUDDHAS OF CONFUCIAN CHINA.

ASIAN ARTWORK OFTEN FOCUSES ON NATURE, RELIGION, AND RITUAL.

IT GIVES US INSIGHT INTO BELIEF SYSTEMS DEVELOPED CENTURIES AGO, AS WELL AS THE CONTINUITY OF THOSE TRADITIONS TODAY.

WITH THAT IN MIND, THE ASIAN ART MUSEUM OFFERS HANDS-ON ACTIVITIES AND LIVE DEMONSTRATIONS.

WE WERE LUCKY ENOUGH TO VISIT WHEN TIBETAN MONKS WERE CREATING A SACRED SAND MANDALA.

[SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] THIS MYSTIC DIAGRAM SYMBOLIZES THE COSMOS AND IS USED IN BUDDHIST RITUAL.

THE MANDALA IS A TEMPORARY CREATION, AND AFTER MEDITATING ON IT, THE MONKS WILL POUR THE SANDS INTO A NEARBY RIVER OR STREAM SO THAT THE SPIRITS OF THE OCEAN WILL CARRY ITS HEALING ENERGIES TO THE WORLD.

TO ME, SAN FRANCISCO IS A CITY OF CELEBRATION, REVELING IN DIVERSITY, IN ART, AND I'M VERY HAPPY TO SAY, IN FOOD.

HERE ON THE DOCKS, WHERE FERRY BOATS COME AND GO, THE BAY AREA'S AGRICULTURAL BOUNTY AND CULINARY TRADITIONS ALL COME TOGETHER UNDER ONE ROOF.

IN THE FERRY BUILDING MARKETPLACE, YOU'LL FIND POPULAR RESTAURANTS, SUCH AS THE SLANTED DOOR, WHICH SPECIALIZES IN VIETNAMESE CUISINE.

THE BUILDING'S MARKET STALLS SERVE UP FRESH PRODUCE FROM SMALL REGIONAL FARMERS AND RANCHERS, MUCH OF WHICH IS CERTIFIED ORGANIC.

OTHER TEMPTING OFFERINGS INCLUDE SPECIALTY CHEESES AND OLIVE OIL.

OH, THAT'S NICE.

CONSIDERING THE AREA'S ABUNDANCE OF FRESH PRODUCE, IT'S NOT SURPRISING THAT VEGETARIANS THRIVE HERE.

THE FORT MASON CENTER, A FEW MILES UP THE WATERFRONT, FEATURES ONE OF THE CITY'S BELOVED INSTITUTIONS-- GREENS RESTAURANT.

THIS DECADES-OLD VEGETARIAN EATERY IS RIGHT AT HOME IN A CITY THAT REJOICES IN ALTERNATIVE LIFESTYLES.

ANNIE, IS THERE ANY OTHER CITY IN THE COUNTRY WHERE A RESTAURANT LIKE THIS COULD HAVE BEGUN AND THRIVED?

Annie: I WOULD SAY THAT SAN FRANCISCO'S THE BEST BET FOR A RESTAURANT LIKE THIS.

JUST THE HISTORY OF THE CITY AND THE CITY BEING OPEN TO ALL KINDS OF ECLECTIC, NEW THINGS, UNUSUAL THINGS, AND THE NUMBER-ONE INSPIRATION IS JUST ALL THE AMAZING PRODUCE, THE INCREDIBLE CHEESES, THE FABULOUS OLIVE OIL, THE OLIVES, THE NUTS, ALL OF THE INGREDIENTS.

Maxa: HELPING TO PIONEER VEGETARIAN CUISINE IN THE U.S., GREENS WAS FOUNDED BY THE SAN FRANCISCO ZEN CENTER.

Annie: GREENS WAS ONE OF A NUMBER OF BUSINESSES THAT WAS OPENED IN THE SEVENTIES TO HELP SUPPORT ZEN CENTER AND TO ALSO MAKE IT POSSIBLE FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE INTERESTED IN BUDDHIST PRACTICE AND WERE MAKING BUDDHIST PRACTICE THEIR LIFE TO MAKE IT THEIR LIVELIHOOD AS WELL.

BUT YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE BUDDHIST TO HAVE FUN EATING HERE?

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO BE A BUDDHIST TO HAVE FUN HERE EATING.

OK, I WANT YOU TO MELLOW OUT NOW AND RELAX YOUR MIND BACK TO 1967.

IT'S THE SUMMER OF LOVE.

THE PEACE MOVEMENT'S COME INTO FULL SWING.

IT'S A TIME OF WAR PROTESTS, FLOWER CHILDREN, DRUGS, AND FREE LOVE.

OH, MAN.

THOSE WERE THE DAYS.

YOUNG PEOPLE, ATTRACTED BY THE HAIGHT NEIGHBORHOOD'S CHEAP RENTS AND CAMARADERIE, MADE THIS THE PLACE TO BE.

THE GRATEFUL DEAD, JEFFERSON AIRPLANE, AND JANIS JOPLIN FOUND MUSICAL INSPIRATION HERE, AND THE CORNER OF HAIGHT AND ASHBURY BECAME A SYMBOL OF THE FLOWER-CHILD GENERATION.

THOUGH THE IDEALISM OF THE SIXTIES HAS WEATHERED A BIT WITH AGE, THE NEIGHBORHOOD REMAINS A HUB OF POLITICAL ACTIVISM.

ALL YOU AUDIOPHILES OUT THERE WON'T WANT TO MISS AMOEBA MUSIC ON THE NEIGHBORHOOD'S WESTERN EDGE.

AMOEBA IS THE LARGEST INDEPENDENT MUSIC SELLER IN THE COUNTRY, AND "ROLLING STONE" MAGAZINE ONCE CALLED IT THE BEST RECORD STORE IN THE WORLD.

IT'S HOUSED IN A FORMER BOWLING ALLEY, AND THERE'S SOMETHING HERE TO SATISFY EVERY TASTE, FROM CUTTING-EDGE TO HOPELESSLY DATED.

HOLDING FIRM TO ITS ACTIVIST ROOTS, THE STORE DONATES PART OF ITS PROFITS TO PRESERVE RAINFORESTS.

TRAVEL WRITERS ARE UNANIMOUS.

WE ALL AGREE THAT THE BEST WAY TO SEE SAN FRANCISCO IS ON FOOT.

"GO WEST, YOUNG WOMAN," 10 DARING DIVAS WHO DID IT THEIR OWN WAY.

WE'RE TALKING ABOUT WOMEN WHO, DESPITE THE CULTURAL OR SOCIETAL CONFINE OF THE TIMES, BE IT RACISM, SEXISM, CORSETS...

THEY DID WHATEVER THEY WANT WHENEVER THEY WANTED IT, AND THEY DID IT THEIR OWN WAY.

Maxa: AND TO MAKE WALKING THIS ECLECTIC CITY EVEN MORE FUN, WE'VE HOOKED UP WITH A TOUR GROUP CALLED, APPROPRIATELY ENOUGH, FOOT.

Whitehorse: SO, THIS STATUE WAS DEDICATED IN 1903 BY PRESIDENT THEODORE ROOSEVELT FOR ADMIRAL DEWEY... BLAH, BLAH, BLAH, BLAH.

WE DON'T CARE ABOUT THOSE GUYS.

WE'RE TALKING ABOUT THE LADY AT THE TOP OF THE STATUE-- MISS ALMA DE BRETTEVILLE SPRECKLES.

Maxa: PROUD OF THEIR LIBERAL WAYS, SAN FRANCISCANS HAVE ALWAYS MARCHED TO THE BEAT OF THEIR OWN DRUMMERS, AND THIS TOUR IS NO EXCEPTION.

Whitehorse: WHAT I DO WANT TO TELL YOU IS THAT SHE STARTED OUT HER GOLD-DIGGING CAREER AS A YOUNG GIRL IN SAN FRANCISCO.

Maxa: I'M READY FOR A LITTLE COFFEE BREAK, AND I'VE FOUND JUST THE SPOT.

ONE OF SAN FRANCISCO'S SENSORY PLEASURES IS THE SMELL OF ROASTED COFFEE BEANS WAFTING THROUGH THE NORTH BEACH NEIGHBORHOOD.

THE AREA WAS SETTLED BY ITALIAN IMMIGRANTS MORE THAN 130 YEARS AGO, AND IT'S STILL LARGELY ITALIANO.

AND EVEN AFTER SO MANY GENERATIONS, YOUNG AND OLD STILL COME TOGETHER HERE TO SHARE A MEAL OR A CUP OF ESPRESSO.

[MUSIC PLAYING] [SINGING IN ITALIAN] THE COZY CAFFE TRIESTE WAS FOUNDED BY IMMIGRANT GIANNI GIOTTA IN 1956.

ON SATURDAYS, CUSTOMERS ARE ENTERTAINED BY THE OWNER'S FAMILY SING-ALONGS.

BACK IN THE FIFTIES, THIS WAS A HANGOUT FOR THE BOHEMIAN CROWD, AND JACK KEROUAC AND ALLEN GINSBERG WERE REGULARS.

THE BEAT GENERATION FOUND CAFES A PLEASANT ESCAPE FROM THEIR OFTEN CRAMPED AND CHILLY APARTMENTS.

LATER, A YOUNG FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA WOULD WRITE PART OF THE SCREENPLAY FOR "THE GODFATHER" HERE.

[APPLAUSE] SAN FRANCISCO'S RANGE OF ACCOMMODATIONS IS AS DIVERSE AS THE CITY ITSELF.

IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR SHEER INDULGENCE, ITS LUXURY HOTELS RANK AMONG THE WORLD'S FINEST.

THE FOUR SEASONS, A FAVORITE WITH CELEBRITIES, HAS A GREAT LOCATION RIGHT ON MARKET STREET.

THE ELEGANT ROOMS AND FIRST-CLASS AMENITIES ARE A SPECIAL TREAT.

WHILE HOTELS ARE PLENTIFUL HERE, TO GET YOUR FIRST CHOICE, IT'S ALWAYS SMART TO MAKE RESERVATIONS, ESPECIALLY DURING SUMMER MONTHS.

NOW FOR ACCOMMODATIONS OF A DIFFERENT SORT.

SAN FRANCISCO'S MOST POPULAR DAYTRIP HAS TO BE THE BOAT RIDE TO ALCATRAZ, A 15-MINUTE JAUNT ACROSS THE BAY.

"THE ROCK," AS IT'S KNOWN, HOLDS THE DUBIOUS HONOR OF BEING THE MOST FAMOUS OF ALL U.S. PENITENTIARIES.

THE ISLAND WAS ONCE A U.S. MILITARY POST AND PRISON.

THEN IN THE 1930's, THE GOVERNMENT BEGAN LOOKING FOR SOMEWHERE TO HOUSE THE CIVILIAN POPULATION'S WORST OFFENDERS.

ALCATRAZ SEEMED LIKE AN OBVIOUS CHOICE.

IT WAS CLOSE TO LAND BUT ISOLATED BY TIDES, CURRENTS, AND FRIGID BAY WATER.

FOR 34 YEARS, IT SERVED AS A MAXIMUM-SECURITY PENITENTIARY, THE END OF THE LINE FOR HARDENED CRIMINALS WHO COULDN'T BE HANDLED ANYWHERE ELSE.

ALCATRAZ WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO ESCAPE FROM... OR SO EVERYONE THOUGHT.

EVERYONE WAS WRONG, BECAUSE IN 1962, 3 MEN WRIGGLED OUT THROUGH AIR VENTS, FLED THE ISLAND ON A HOMEMADE RAFT, AND WERE NEVER HEARD FROM AGAIN.

DID THEY SURVIVE?

WELL, WE MAY NEVER KNOW.

BUT THE INCIDENT WAS MADE FAMOUS BY THE MOVIE "ESCAPE FROM ALCATRAZ," STARRING CLINT EASTWOOD.

THE LONELY CELLS AND COLD METAL BARS PAINT AN EERIE PICTURE OF DAILY LIFE IN THIS DARK FORTRESS.

WHILE THE PRISON'S MORE INFAMOUS RESIDENTS INCLUDED THE LIKES OF AL CAPONE AND "MACHINE GUN" KELLY, IT'S THE BIRDMAN OF ALCATRAZ THAT WE'VE ALL HEARD SO MUCH ABOUT.

HIS GIVEN NAME WAS ROBERT STROUD, AND ALTHOUGH HE DID RAISE CANARIES WHILE INCARCERATED AT LEAVENWORTH PRISON IN KANSAS, HE ACTUALLY WASN'T ALLOWED TO KEEP BIRDS DURING HIS TIME AT ALCATRAZ.

OK, SO EVERYBODY KNOWS ABOUT ALCATRAZ, BUT MANY VISITORS TO THE BAY AREA OVERLOOK THIS BIG ISLAND RIGHT NEXT DOOR.

SOME FIND ANGEL ISLAND EVEN MORE INTERESTING THAN ITS FAMOUS COUSIN, AND WITH AN ISLAND-HOP TICKET, YOU CAN VISIT BOTH IN ONE DAY.

THE 740-ACRE PARK IS A KIND OF MICROCOSM OF U.S. MILITARY HISTORY, BEGINNING WITH ITS DAYS AS AN INDIAN HUNTING GROUND RIGHT ON THROUGH ITS USE AS A MISSILE BASE DURING THE COLD WAR.

HOW DID THIS COME TO BE A MILITARY BASE, AND WHEN?

Man: IN 1863, DURING THE AMERICAN CIVIL WAR, THEY WANTED TO PROTECT THE BAY FROM THE CONFEDERATES INVADING.

WAIT.

THE CONFEDERATES INVADING CALIFORNIA?

EXACTLY.

WHY WOULD THEY DO THAT?

WELL, WE HAD THE GOLD RESERVES IN SACRAMENTO.

SO AS YOU CAN TELL, THIS TIME OF YEAR, AS THE FOG ROLLS IN, IT COVERS THE WHOLE BAY.

AND SO IT'S EASY FOR A SHIP TO SNEAK IN UNDER THE COVER OF THE FOG AND GO INTO SACRAMENTO AND INVADE AND STEAL THE GOLD.

Maxa: ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE ISLAND, FORT McDOWELL WAS A HUB OF ACTIVITY DURING THE SPANISH AMERICAN WAR AND DURING BOTH WORLD WARS, WHEN THOUSANDS OF MEN PASSED THROUGH HERE ON THEIR WAY TO THE PACIFIC.

THIS IMMIGRATION STATION EARNED ANGEL ISLAND ITS NICKNAME-- ELLIS ISLAND OF THE WEST.

WHAT HAPPENED HERE?

THIS IS THE ANGEL ISLAND IMMIGRATION STATION.

IT WAS A PROCESSING CENTER FOR MAINLY CHINESE IMMIGRANTS.

Maxa: HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF ASIAN IMMIGRANTS WERE PROCESSED HERE BETWEEN 1910 AND 1940.

THE DETAINEES WERE OFTEN HELD FOR MONTHS AND SOMETIMES EVEN YEARS BEFORE BEING ALLOWED TO ENTER THE U.S. OR BEING TURNED AWAY.

200 PEOPLE IN ONE ROOM-- HOT, COLD SOMETIMES, JUST STUFFY AND LOUD.

IT WAS A VERY UNPLEASANT EXPERIENCE FOR THEM.

Maxa: "AT LAST, THE MIGHTY TASK IS DONE, RESPLENDENT IN THE WESTERN SUN."

SO BEGINS A POEM BY JOSEPH STRAUSS, THE CHIEF ENGINEER OF THE GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE.

THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE CONNECTING SAN FRANCISCO WITH MARIN COUNTY IS AN ICON THE WORLD AROUND.

THE GREAT SPAN TOOK MORE THAN 4 YEARS TO BUILD AND COST 35 MILLION DEPRESSION-ERA DOLLARS.

PUNDITS OF THE DAY ASSERTED THAT NO ONE COULD BRIDGE THE PERILOUS WATERWAY KNOWN AS THE GOLDEN GATE.

NEVERTHELESS, THE LONG, LOVELY BRIDGE OPENED TO VEHICLES ON MAY 28, 1937, AND HAS FAITHFULLY SERVED SAN FRANCISCANS EVER SINCE.

THE BRIDGE TAKES US OUT OF THE CITY, AS WE HEAD NORTH TO THE SONOMA AND NAPA VALLEYS AND THE TOWN OF CALISTOGA.

THE SCENERY UNFOLDS INTO MILES OF FARMLAND AND PICTURESQUE VINEYARDS.

A HUNGARIAN COUNT LAUNCHED THE WHOLE WINEMAKING BUSINESS BACK IN 1857.

"CALIFORNIA," HE SAID, "CAN PRODUCE AS NOBLE AND GENEROUS A WINE AS ANY IN EUROPE."

HE CARRIED BACK THOUSANDS OF VINE CUTTINGS FROM HIS EUROPEAN TRAVELS AND STARTED AN ENTIRE INDUSTRY.

BUT EVEN THOSE WHO AREN'T INTO WINE WILL FALL IN LOVE WITH THE BEAUTY AND SERENITY OF THIS LANDSCAPE.

AT CORNERSTONE GARDENS IN SONOMA, AN EVER-CHANGING SERIES OF WALK-THROUGH GARDENS INTRODUCES VISITORS TO INNOVATIVE DESIGNS FROM SOME OF THE WORLD'S FINEST LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTS.

MODELED AFTER THE INTERNATIONAL GARDEN FESTIVAL AT CHAUMONT-SUR-LOIRE IN FRANCE, THE PROJECT CELEBRATES THE CONNECTION BETWEEN ART, ARCHITECTURE, AND NATURE.

CHRIS, WHAT'S THE CONCEPT BEHIND CORNERSTONE GARDENS?

Chris: THE IDEA WAS TO INVITE 22 LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD AND GIVE THEM EACH A SPACE, ABOUT 2,000 SQUARE FEET, AND INVITE THEM TO DESIGN A GARDEN.

ANYTHING THEY WANTED?

ANYTHING THEY WANTED.

SO THE GARDENS TURNED OUT TO BE VERY CONCEPTUAL SOMETIMES, WHIMSICAL, FUN, SOMETIMES TRADITIONAL.

A GARDEN CAN BE WHATEVER YOU WANT IT TO BE, AND A GARDEN CAN BE JUST AN IDEA OF OBJECTS.

IT CAN BE PRETTY FLOWERS AND TRADITIONAL PLANTS, BUT FOR US, IT CAN JUST BE-- IT CAN BE A GARDEN OF IDEAS.

NOW, ABOUT THAT WINE TASTING.

ONE OF MY FAVORITE WINERIES IS CLOS PEGASE, NEAR THE TOWN OF CALISTOGA.

THE FREE-SPIRITED VINTNER DRAWS INSPIRATION FOR HIS WINEMAKING FROM ANCIENT MYTH AND FINE ART.

MR. SHREM, WHAT MAKES YOUR WINERY DIFFERENT THAN OTHER WINERIES?

CLOS PEGASE IS A MARRIAGE OF WINE AND ART.

IN GREEK MYTHOLOGY, WHERE THE PEGASUS LANDED ON MOUNT HELICON, HIS HOOVES RELEASED WATER, THE SPRING OF THE MUSES.

THE VINES OF BACCHUS DRANK THOSE WATERS, AND WINE WAS BORN.

THE 9 MUSES DRANK THE WINE, AND ART WAS BORN.

AND YOU DO A MERLOT, A CABERNET?

A SAUVIGNON BLANC AND A CHARDONNAY.

A PINOT NOIR AS WELL, YES.

AND THIS IS THE MERLOT?

THIS IS THE MERLOT, AND IT'S A VERY UNUSUAL PROCESS CALLED SAIGNEE IN FRENCH, IN THAT WE BLEED OFF ABOUT 15% OF THE FIRST-RUN JUICE.

WHAT THAT MEANS IS THAT THE REMAINING 85% GETS ALL THE SKINS.

VERY CONCENTRATED.

SHALL WE TOAST TO BACCHUS?

YES, WE'LL TOAST TO BACCHUS.

YOU KNOW, HE WAS A RASCAL, AND I'M HIS DISCIPLE.

CHEERS.

IT WAS CALIFORNIA'S WINE COUNTRY THAT SPAWNED AMERICA'S PASSION FOR SPA TREATMENTS.

VOLCANIC SOIL AND MINERAL SPRINGS PROVIDE AMPLE OPPORTUNITY FOR THERAPEUTIC SOAKS AND MUD BATHS.

DR. WILKINSON'S IS THE OLDEST SPA IN CALISTOGA, AND THOUGH NOT AS TRENDY AS SOME OF THE COMPETITION, IT HAS A DEDICATED FOLLOWING OF RETURN VISITORS.

THIS IS DR. WILKINSON'S SPECIAL BLEND OF MUD.

SPECIAL BLEND?

IT'S A MIXTURE OF VOLCANIC ASH AND THE HOT MINERAL WATER, BOTH OF WHICH COME RIGHT HERE IN THE TOWN OF CALISTOGA.

THE MUD HAS A VERY DEEP PENETRATING HEAT.

SO IT RELAXES THE DEEPER MUSCLES AND JOINTS.

IT HELPS GET RID OF THE STRESS OF THE DAY.

ALSO, THE MUD HAS AN EXFOLIATING EFFECT.

SO IT CLEANSES THE PORES.

IT WILL HELP YOU LOOK YOUNGER AND MORE HANDSOME.

WILL IT HELP ME LOSE WEIGHT AND GROW HAIR?

I'M ON THE ETERNAL QUEST FOR THAT.

THEN THE LAST TOUCH IS GOING TO BE CUCUMBERS OVER YOUR EYELIDS.

NOW YOU JUST LAY BACK AND RELAX.

AH... JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED.

FROM THE CULTURAL COLLAGE OF SAN FRANCISCO'S NEIGHBORHOODS TO THE DIZZYING SUMMITS OF CITY HILLS TO THE MELLOW VINES OF THE WINE COUNTRY, THE BAY AREA IS SURE TO TURN YOUR HEAD AND WIN YOUR HEART.

HERE'S TO SAN FRANCISCO AND THE BAY AREA, CELEBRATING ART, DIVERSITY, AND LIFE.

YOU KNOW, I'VE BEEN TRYING TO FIGURE OUT EXACTLY WHERE IT WAS I LEFT MY HEART.

FOR NOW AT LEAST, I FOUND IT RIGHT HERE.

I'M RUDY MAXA.

SEE YOU NEXT TIME.

TO ORDER THE 3-EPISODE DVD OR VHS OF SAN FRANCISCO, SEATTLE, AND VANCOUVER OR ANY OTHER "SMART TRAVELS" DESTINATIONS, PLEASE VISIT US ONLINE AT SMARTTRAVELS.TV OR CALL 800-866-7425.

DVD's AND VIDEOS ARE $24.95 EACH PLUS SHIPPING.

EACH DVD INCLUDES MORE THAN AN HOUR OF EXCLUSIVE BONUS CLIPS AND RUDY'S TRAVEL TIPS.

ORDER AT THIS TOLL-FREE NUMBER OR ONLINE.

MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS WITH RUDY MAXA" IS PROVIDED BY... OVER THE YEARS, PUBLIC TELEVISION HAS SHOWN YOU THE WORLD, EDUCATED YOU ABOUT IT, AND INSPIRED YOU TO SEE IT FOR YOURSELF.

EXPEDIA CAN HELP YOU GET THERE WITH FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES.

"SMART TRAVELS WITH RUDY MAXA" IS BROUGHT TO YOU IN PART BY THE PEOPLE AT EXPEDIA.

ADDITIONAL SUPPORT FROM MEDJETASSIST.COM, >> ADDITIONAL SUPPORT FROM MEDJETASSIST.COM.

MEDICAL EVACUATION MEMBERSHIP PROTECTION FOR TRAVELERS.

TAKE TRIPS, NOT CHANCES.