
San Luis Obispo County, California
11/28/2020 | 26m 58sVideo has Closed Captions
Head for San Luis Obispo County, known as a hub for oyster farming.
Chef Curtis Stone is joined by Chefs David Rosner and Sherry Yard to source local oysters. Together, the chefs prepare a menu of SLO County-sourced ingredients prepared in a variety of ways: raw oysters served with chili and ginger granita; grilled yellowtail tuna and fennel accompanied by roasted oysters; and a dessert of caramelized fennel and fruit strudel a la mode.
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Distributed nationally by American Public Television

San Luis Obispo County, California
11/28/2020 | 26m 58sVideo has Closed Captions
Chef Curtis Stone is joined by Chefs David Rosner and Sherry Yard to source local oysters. Together, the chefs prepare a menu of SLO County-sourced ingredients prepared in a variety of ways: raw oysters served with chili and ginger granita; grilled yellowtail tuna and fennel accompanied by roasted oysters; and a dessert of caramelized fennel and fruit strudel a la mode.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship♪ ♪ >> From the editors of Relish.com, we bring you Moveable Feast.
♪ ♪ >> STONE: Today, it's San Luis Obispo.
And our guest chefs are Sherry Yard... >> This fennel is just so beautiful.
>> STONE: And my good mate, Dave Rosner.
As a surfer, I don't eat shark because I believe in karma.
>> My karma, I don't even want to have this conversation, that's how deeply rooted my karma is.
>> STONE: We're sourcing herbs and veg direct from the local farmer... >> So Maureen, these little lady bugs wouldn't be here if you were working with pesticides.
>> That's correct.
>> STONE: We're suiting up in some very flattering garb.
I was hoping not to give away my religion, but hey... To see where oysters get their girth.
>> And that's the treadmill, the oyster gym.
>> STONE: And I gotta tell you, I've been doing this for a long time, but I've never before made this.
>> They say you should be able to read the newspaper through it.
>> STONE: Can you guess what it is?
(cheers and applause) >> Coming up next on Moveable Feast with Relish.
>> Major funding provided by: >> Ladies and gentlemen, your attention, please.
(gecko clears throat, feedback squeals) >> GEICO would like to take a moment to say thank you to our military service members at home and abroad for all their hard work and sacrifice.
We all sleep easier knowing you're out there keeping us safe.
And on a personal note... (jet engines roar, gecko's speech muffled) (crowd cheering) (exhales) Just needed to get that off my chest.
Thank you.
>> GEICO-- proudly supporting the military for over 75 years.
>> We can't just take from nature, so we collaborate.
Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way.
♪ ♪ >> Ocean Spray is a proud sponsor of Moveable Feast.
>> At Pure Leaf, the most important ingredient in making tea is saying no.
We're committed to saying no to artificial flavors and sweeteners in our brewed iced teas.
♪ ♪ >> I am Errico Auricchio, the founder of BelGioioso Cheese.
I came in 1979 from Italy with my family and the memory of Italian cheese.
>> La Panzanella-- bakers of Italian-inspired crackers.
Simple ingredients and non-GMO.
♪ ♪ >> Aquaman!
>> STONE: Phew!
I've got a wedgie, but I'm ready.
(laughter) ♪ ♪ >> Do you ever count like how many oysters it would take?
>> I think I'm somewhere a lifetime in the 400,000 range.
>> STONE: 400,000?
>> Yeah.
>> STONE: No way.
>> If you do the math.
>> STONE: Chef David Rosner was recently executive chef at Wine Cask restaurant in Santa Barbara.
Directly after high school, he apprenticed for chef Daniel Boulud, and is an alum of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park.
He's now the chef/owner of Big Eye Raw Bar in Santa Barbara.
>> I was at the Rainbow Room in New York City, and we had oyster Rockefeller towers, and we would do about 500 a night.
>> STONE: Chef Sherry Yard is a three-time James Beard Award-winning chef in Los Angeles.
She's been executive partner with Wolfgang Puck's empire for over 20 years.
She's been the one catering all those post-Oscar parties, all the Grammy Awards.
She's been a leading player in L.A.'s pastry scene, and is considered one of America's finest pastry chefs.
>> All right, this is our little office, our little hole in the wall.
>> STONE: It's not a bad office.
>> We're going to try and find some oysters that we can take to the feast, so why don't we look through some bags.
>> STONE: So these are the bags here?
Can we cut one open, have a look?
>> Yeah, let's do it.
Let's dig in.
So I got an oyster knife if you guys want to see what some of these look like inside.
>> STONE: Oh yeah.
>> Oh yeah.
>> STONE: Oh, my god.
>> Tastes luscious, and salty, and briny.
>> STONE: It's sweet.
Why are some oysters sweeter than others?
>> California got a lot of rain this year, so you get a little bit of fresh water coming from the creeks over the farm, and that fresh water translates to sweet on your palate.
>> The best oyster I've ever had.
>> Aw, thanks.
>> Amazing.
>> STONE: So back it up for me, tell us about the birds and the bees of the oyster.
>> Adult oysters, there's male and female, they spawn in the water, and that becomes larvae.
Oyster larvae seek out other shells.
They have chemoreceptors, which is basically a nose.
The assumption is that when you have this vast ocean and your plankton floating around, you need some kind of marker to say, "Hey, my friends live here, "let's drop to the bottom and live here, too, this must be good territory."
In the wild, the oyster would just wanna grow in a cluster.
If you did it like nature, you would throw a cluster of oysters in the middle of a plate and there'd be six of them attached to each other, you know.
>> STONE: That'd be a good way to sell half dozen oysters.
(laughing) >> So if humans didn't intervene, basically the oyster would be living in row housing in the suburbs.
You'd have oyster after oyster just all piled up on each other in condominiums back-to-back.
What man has done is recreate the spawning process in a controlled environment.
They'll pulverize oyster shell and sieve it out until it's so fine that only one larvae can fit on every grain.
And that larvae then settles on the shell, and that's how you get an individually cultured oyster that ends up on your plate in the half shell.
>> STONE: What do you guys think?
What are you gonna make?
>> I think it's time for something a little chilly and cold to go along with the water we're in.
Maybe a little granita with some chili and ginger.
>> STONE: Get that delicious cold, I love super cold oysters.
>> You know how to light a fire?
>> STONE: Yeah, I'm your man, I can help you out.
>> I'm thinking about doing something on the grill with them, a little charbroiled.
>> STONE: Maybe I'll poach them and just treat them really delicately.
>> I'll take them however I can get them.
>> STONE: I'm with you.
Can you come for dinner tonight?
>> Yeah, I'm in.
>> STONE: Okay, we'll see you there.
♪ ♪ >> Maureen, Jerry, you spoil me every week.
I go to the farmer's market in Santa Monica, and everything comes so fresh and incredible.
>> Thank you, Sherry.
>> STONE: The beautiful thing about farmer's markets is you get to meet the people that actually grow the food.
I've never met a farmer that says no, you can't come to my farm.
>> That philosophy has enabled us over the last 35 years to be successful.
The community invited me on the farm with the idea that I would not use any pesticides.
We use organic farming practices-- chicken manure, fish emulsion, and green manure cover crops.
All of those things help the soil fertility, and makes the plants happy, I think.
>> STONE: So who decides what you guys are gonna plant?
>> Me.
(laughing) We grow 35 different things on the farm right now: beets, broccoli, broccolini, the strawberries are really good.
>> Raspberries!
>> You know my favorite thing to do, I like to make candy fingers.
>> STONE: Awesome, tarragon.
>> French tarragon.
This is one of the few perennial herbs that we grow on the farm.
>> STONE: Tarragon is just the perfect marriage for an oyster because it has that anise kind of a flavor.
Imagine an oyster and taste that.
That's how I do it.
When I try and think of a dish, I imagine what I want to do and then I taste something.
>> I think it'll work, I'm looking forward to tonight's meal.
>> So Maureen, these little lady bugs wouldn't be here if you were working with pesticides.
>> That's correct.
There's no pesticides or sprays in the field, and they love the fennel.
>> This fennel is just so beautiful.
I'm inspired to make a filling with the strudel.
And some apples and some fennel with it, candy the fennel.
I think it'll be really incredible.
And then use the frond right on top for garnish.
>> For your feast tonight, how about we gather some of the godetia here, and make your table look a little bright?
>> Incredible, it'd be like fireworks.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> STONE: I get so excited when I get to stand in a kitchen with you, surrounded by flour, and sugar, and salt, and all things baking.
>> We are going to make the most incredible dessert ever, it gave me my Austrian passport, it is strudel.
We went to the farm this morning and there were all these incredible ingredients, and I thought what better than a strudel dough that will just be the wrap around all that beautiful fruit.
So we have eggs here, and a little bit of oil.
The oil is gonna give it that elasticity to the dough.
And while you're doing that, I'm adding in some water.
>> STONE: Can I be your commis chef?
>> You can be my commis chef, and just like you're really mad, get mad at it.
>> STONE: Okay.
>> While you're doing that, I'm going to put the dries in the bowl.
Bread flour and pastry flour.
So one makes it tender, and the other one gives it the strength to be able to stretch.
And then a whisper of salt.
Kind of like when you make pasta dough, we're gonna put a well in the center and mix that salt in at the same time.
We're gonna pour your wet ingredients into the center of the dry ingredients.
And I'm turning the bowl.
Work the dries into the center.
Almost like you're a little machine yourself.
>> STONE: You're like a big stand mixer right now.
>> Yeah, I'm a big stand mixer right now.
And you can see it's starting to come together kind of like a paste at first.
>> STONE: So did you really cook in Austria?
>> I did.
You know, it's the whole Austrian-Hungarian empire, that's truly where pastries and things like the croissant were made.
Now you could see it comes together, kind of looks like rags at this point, right?
Gonna turn it out onto the table.
>> STONE: So are you gonna knead it and turn it into a smooth dough?
>> I am.
The heel of my hands right here, I'm pushing away, and kneading, and pushing in.
It's my body that's doing the work, not really my hands.
>> STONE: It's a bit of a rhythm, it's a bit of a rock.
>> This is good, you don't need to go to the gym.
You see this?
This takes about ten minutes.
>> STONE: Well, my love, while you knead your dough, I'm gonna go and see what Dave's doing.
>> Okie doke.
>> STONE: Davey, boy.
>> Curtis, I'm gonna make grilled local yellowtail.
>> STONE: Yum.
>> Going to be grilling some oysters as well.
So we're gonna make a little bit of a ponzu out of this tamari, Japanese gluten-free soy sauce.
Season it with citrus.
I like to use the zests, I feel like that gives it a little more punch.
You could smell it right now.
>> STONE: As soon as you start.
>> Yeah.
>> STONE: It's all those essential oils, right?
Just being released from the zest.
What's your philosophy on sustainable seafood?
>> I'm a surfer.
It's very important to me to keep an eye out for, you know, what's best for the ocean, and our children's fun in the ocean.
I like to go with local, also stuff that's line-caught.
It's less distress on the sea life and the marine life.
>> STONE: As a surfer, I don't eat shark.
Because I believe in karma, I'm not messing with that.
Do you eat shark?
>> My karma, I don't even want to have this conversation, that's how deeply rooted my karma is.
>> STONE: All right, so this is gonna be the dressing for the oysters that you're gonna grill.
>> For the yellowtail we have a kaffir lime vinaigrette.
>> STONE: That's amazing.
>> Just to balance out the spice that we're putting in with the fish.
>> STONE: Sherry, get a taste of this.
>> Mm... incredible.
>> STONE: How good is that?
>> You want every bite to just kind of bring you back to the beginning, so you just keep eating more and more and more.
We're gonna add a little bit of this yuzu kosho.
So it's a yuzu paste with red chilies.
Don't go too... it's spicy.
>> STONE: Yeah, you can smell it, like whoo!
>> Whisk in a little bit of extra virgin olive oil to make the emulsion.
>> STONE: I'll make myself useful.
>> It's about time.
>> STONE: So Sherry, you know Dave and I, when I first got to America, we worked together for like, what, two years?
>> Yeah.
>> STONE: So if you hear him giving me some backhanders... >> You always hurt the one you love.
(Curtis chuckles) >> Just give that a little taste.
>> STONE: Whoo, that's gotta kick, doesn't it?
(high-pitched cough) Whoo!
>> So let's marinate this fish up.
And we're gonna use the grill kind of like a one-pot wonder.
>> STONE: Instead of just standing here and looking good, Dave, I'll give you a hand.
>> Thank you, mate, that's what friends are for.
Now we're grilling our oysters that we hit with the ponzu.
(fire crackling) I like to shuck my oysters first, so they eat like a medium rare steak.
When you see people just throw them on the grill, you know, all closed up, by the time they pop open and everything... >> STONE: They're totally cooked.
>> Cooked like a medium well.
>> STONE: All right, fish is going on.
>> We're going to grill this side of the fish first.
So when we flip, we're flipping right on top.
Our fennel stalks, fronds, and our lime leaves.
The bottom of the fish will get a little bit of smoke, a little extra layer of fennel and citrus.
>> STONE: Burnt into the fish.
>> Burnt in from the bottom.
>> STONE: Oh yeah.
♪ ♪ So I'm gonna poach some oysters.
Start with the shallots.
I'm gonna sweat them without color.
Add my wine.
(sizzling) Reduce that down, almost to a glaze.
Then add some delicious fish stock.
Then I'll reduce that right down as well.
Put a little cream, bring it to the boil and strain it.
I'm gonna put some dill, some cucumber skin, and some stinging nettles.
I have no idea who the first person to eat a stinging nettle was, because normally you touch it and you're like, "Ah!"
And that's it, you know.
And of course they're a pest, and we're out there at the farm today.
He was pulling one out, and I was like I pay a lot of money for those in L.A., I'm taking them.
So you gotta be pretty careful with them.
There's stingers on the leaf and there's stingers on the stem.
You get those little stingers in your fingers-- I've got a couple of them in my fingers right now.
Drop them into the sauce and just blanch them really quick.
Blend that up, and release some of that flavor and color.
(loud whirring, no words spoken) (whirring stops) You know what I mean?
♪ ♪ And you see the pigment from those vegetables have come out.
We've strained all the solids out, so you get a nice velvety sauce.
Drop the oysters in for just 30 seconds, that's it.
Oysters need just a tiny bit of poaching.
♪ ♪ And I've pickled some cucumber that I've just cut into sort of matchsticks.
I've never done this before with oysters, so I don't know how it's gonna go.
But cucumber has a really interesting flavor.
And if you can bring some sweetness to it, I think it'll work well with the poached oysters.
>> Hey!
Are you ready?
Are you ready to roll?
>> STONE: That looks like fun.
>> This is our tablecloth, and we're ready to roll our strudel dough.
And so I always say that when you dust the table, it should be like when you're throwing a baseball, a slider.
Our dough has rested for about 20 minutes or so in a warm place.
>> STONE: Okay.
>> Okay, and I just start out with a gentle roll.
I always ask my strudel-pulling partner if you've ever put on pantyhose.
>> STONE: I might have taken it off, but I've never put it on.
>> When you do put on your hose, you use the back of your hands because you don't want your fingernails to go through the hose.
>> STONE: Ah!
>> So that's the key.
So when we lift up, we're gonna use the back of our hands, and we're gonna work like you're doing the dance, like the swim, okay?
Okay, so we're gonna lift up and we're gonna head towards the end of the table.
>> STONE: Just this little piece gonna cover... >> This little piece is gonna do everything for us, ready?
One, two, three.
And you can see how it pulls?
Beautiful, huh?
And I pull it into the corner.
>> STONE: What happens if you get a hole?
>> You have to buy everyone a beer.
>> STONE: Gee, it gets so thin.
>> Isn't this beautiful?
They say you should be able to read the newspaper through it.
>> STONE: Really?
>> And you can, you can see my hand right through it.
>> STONE: This is fun!
>> Isn't this wonderful?
I like to create a little air under the dough because it dries it out just enough so it doesn't stick together.
So I just kind of give it a little bit of a wave.
>> STONE: Kind of like making the bed.
>> It is.
>> STONE: If my wife was here, she'd be saying, "You don't make the bed."
(Sherry laughs) That little piece of dough did all that work.
>> STONE: All right, what's the next step?
>> Now we do the filling.
So if you butter the dough, and then I'll follow you with breadcrumbs.
>> STONE: What do you need: less or more?
>> You can just drizzle it over.
>> STONE: Oh, okay.
I feel like Jackson Pollock right now.
>> The butter works as a leavening agent.
As it goes in the oven, the butter turns into a gas, and then it separates the layers.
Yeah.
So now... okay, good, Curtis.
>> STONE: Okay.
>> So then we have all our beautiful ingredients that we got at the farm today.
The key to making a beautiful fruit filling with an apple is that your apple should be like the feather of a bird-- light and actually translucent.
Beautiful.
And so now I put lemon juice on it, so the lemon juice and some vanilla sugar, what happens is it starts to cook already in the bowl.
So what I did was poach the rhubarb, and then with the leftover juice, I put it in with the fennel.
>> STONE: So it stops it from going brown, it actually makes it go beautiful and pink.
>> And gives it a wonderful flavor.
>> STONE: Oh, I want to be a guest at this dinner.
(Sherry chuckles) >> I hand-picked these berries.
It doesn't get fresher than this.
And so now we have a little bit of cinnamon and vanilla sugar.
Butter and sugar, it fills in the lines.
(laughing) We are ready to roll.
This is what it's all about, this is what the tablecloth's for.
So we start to pull towards us, and fold over.
And pull, and fold.
And pull, and fold.
And voila.
>> STONE: Next year I'm not asking for a birthday cake.
>> I will make you a birthday strudel.
Lock off the ends so that all the fruit gets in there.
And I give it a pull, and then a twist, and a tuck.
Now, here's the fun part.
(Sherry giggling) >> STONE: Now there's a size issue.
>> We can make it a "C" for Curtis or an "S" for Sherry.
>> STONE: An "S" for Sherry.
>> Okay, so we do this first.
And then we go this backwards.
>> STONE: It's like working with an anaconda.
>> One, two, three.
>> STONE: One, two, three.
>> Voila.
And now we do a little brush of butter over the top.
And then we'll bake it at 375 degrees for about 40 minutes, and it'll be golden brown and perfect.
>> STONE: That is amazing.
I think it's more like an "S" for superstar strudel maker.
>> (imitating Austrian accent): Superstar strudel.
♪ ♪ >> These are Pacific Gold oysters with a gin and lime snowball.
>> I made snowballs, so this is a little lime and gin.
Cheers.
>> At the Raw Bar, I have a quote burned into the wall from Ernest Hemingway's A Moveable Feast.
"As I ate the oyster with the strong taste of the sea, "and their faint metallic taste, "and the cold white wine washed away, "leaving only the sea taste, and the succulent texture.
"And as I drank their cold liquid from each shell, "and I washed it down "with the crisp taste of the wine, "I lost the empty feeling, "and began to be happy and to make plans."
>> Cheers.
>> That was delicious.
(indistinct chatter) ♪ ♪ >> STONE: This is a bit of a different take on an oyster.
I've poached it.
We were out at Jerry's farm today, and I picked some stinging nettles, which he was very happy about.
(laughter) So this is actually a stinging nettle veloute with a little cucumber that's been pickled at the bottom of the plate, and the oysters that have been poached.
Bon appétit.
♪ ♪ >> I didn't know what to expect from a stinging nettle sauce, and it's delicious.
It's so buttery.
>> STONE: The fish is going on.
>> This fish is ready to roll.
♪ ♪ I grilled up a local yellowtail over oak.
It was marinated with a little bit of kaffir lime ginger vinaigrette, yuzu and red chili paste, and some chargrilled oysters.
>> STONE: Pacific Gold oysters from Morro Bay.
They are gold all right.
(cheers and applause) ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ So not only do you have one of the best pastry chefs cooking dessert tonight... (cheers and applause) She went all the way to Austria to learn how to make this particular dessert, so tell them about it, Sherry.
>> Okay, tonight you have a Rutiz Farm strudel.
So it has apples, cherries, rhubarb, raspberries, and the pièce de résistance: fennel (singing): that I picked myself.
(cheers and applause) ♪ ♪ >> STONE: Guys, we have had so much fun and lucky things.
You've got beautiful beaches, fantastic wines, the best oysters I've ever tasted.
Cheers, guys.
>> ALL: Cheers.
(indistinct chatter) ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> For more information about this episode, recipes, and behind-the-scenes fun, make sure you go to Relish.com, follow us @MoveableFeast_TV on Instagram, and like us on Facebook.
See you next time on a Moveable Feast with Relish.
>> Major funding provided by: >> Ladies and gentlemen, your attention, please.
(gecko clears throat, feedback squeals) >> GEICO would like to take a moment to say thank you to our military service members at home and abroad for all their hard work and sacrifice.
We all sleep easier knowing you're out there keeping us safe.
And on a personal note... (jet engines roar, gecko's speech muffled) (crowd cheering) (exhales) Just needed to get that off my chest.
Thank you.
>> GEICO-- proudly supporting the military for over 75 years.
>> We can't just take from nature, so we collaborate.
Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way.
♪ ♪ >> Ocean Spray is a proud sponsor of Moveable Feast.
>> At Pure Leaf, the most important ingredient in making tea is saying no.
We're committed to saying no to artificial flavors and sweeteners in our brewed iced teas.
♪ ♪ >> I am Errico Auricchio, the founder of BelGioioso Cheese.
I came in 1979 from Italy with my family and the memory of Italian cheese.
>> La Panzanella-- bakers of Italian-inspired crackers.
Simple ingredients and non-GMO.
>> I am rolling.
>> ALEX: We're in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
Welcome to Ogunquit, Maine.
Today we're in Boston.
We're in Martha's Vineyard.
We're headed to Cottage City Oysters.
♪ ♪ And how often do you hand-shape them?
>> Every time we handle the oyster, we're actually chipping them by hand.
>> This time of year, we've consolidated a lot of the growing to this little market garden right here.
>> You can try, too, if you want to cut one.
>> ALEX: I would love to.
>> Yeah, perfect.
>> ALEX: Nailed it.
♪ ♪ We're doing something a little unusual today.
I'm milking a cow, oh, my God.
♪ ♪ (cow moos) >> So we're going to hop on into the bog.
So you just want to stay right on these planks till you get to the end.
We don't want you to go swimming yet.
>> ALEX: No!
Knowing me, I'm going to fall in.
This dish is a celebration of ingredients here in New England.
♪ ♪ This is real farm cooking.
>> Farm cooking.
♪ ♪ >> ALEX: This guy's a big guy.
(laughter) I just wanted to say thank you for joining us for tonight's feast.
♪ ♪ Eggs are very temperamental.
>> Correct.
>> It's amazing to be able to watch the steps go and then... (indistinct chatter, laughter) ♪ ♪ >> ALEX: Cheers, everybody.
Thank you for having us.
>> Thank you.
>> ALEX: Cheers, everybody.
(people whooping) This season on Moveable Feast with Relish, we're on the road again...
This guy's a big guy.
(chuckling): I'm milking a cow!
(moos) Doesn't get fresher than this.
...bringing together the country's most innovative chefs and food artisans to create what's best described as a culinary jam session.
♪ ♪ So bring your appetite.
You don't want to miss it.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪


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