UM, WHAT MAKES A GREAT SANDWICH?

THE FRESHNESS AND, UH, THE BREAD.

A SANDWICH IS A PIECE OF BREAD WITH MEAT -- ANY KIND OF MEAT YOU WOULD LIKE ON IT.

WITH YOUR MEAT AND YOUR CHEESE, YOUR ONIONS.

ONIONS, PICKLES, LETTUCE, TOMATO -- ANYTHING.

NAME IT.

WE GOT ANY KIND OF SANDWICH YOU WANT TO EAT.

EVERYBODY LOVES SANDWICHES.

THAT'S PART OF AMERICA.

IT'S AN EASY MEAL, BUT THERE'S LOTS OF GOOD THINGS IN ONE LITTLE PACKAGE.

PUT IT ON THE BREAD SO YOU CAN HOLD IT IN YOUR HAND.

I THINK THE FOOD BECOMES MORE DELICIOUS WHEN YOU USE YOUR HANDS.

YOU CAN EAT A SANDWICH DOING ANYTHING.

WE ALL RELATE TO SANDWICHES.

YOU CAN HAVE YOUR FAVORITE FOOD PUT BETWEEN BREAD FROM ALL OVER THE COUNTRY.

IT COMES IN A MILLION DIFFERENT VARIETIES, BUT ALL THE ELEMENTS ARE BASIC AND SIMPLE.

IT'S THE SIMPLICITY OF THE SANDWICH THAT MAKES IT SO ENTICING.

A SANDWICH IS DEFINITELY A GUY THING.

IT GIVES PEOPLE A REASON TO TRAVEL, TOO.

AND, UH, AND THEY TASTE DAMN GOOD.

[ LAUGHS ] Sebak: WELL, LET'S SAY IT'S SATURDAY MORNING, AND YOU'RE IN PHILADELPHIA.

YOU'RE IN THE ITALIAN MARKET... YOU WANT ONIONS ON BOTH OF YOURS?

...WHERE MARK ONORATO RUNS A GREAT LITTLE SANDWICH SHOP.

THE REASON WHY I LOVE SANDWICHES SO MUCH IS IT'S FAST, IT'S EASY, YOU COULD GET IT, WHIP IT UP -- BING!

EAT IT, AND YOU'RE DONE.

Sebak: IT'S CALLED GEORGE'S SANDWICH SHOP.

Mark: WELL, GEORGE WAS MY GRANDFATHER.

HIS NAME WAS GEORGE VELLIOS.

Sebak: A GREEK IMMIGRANT, HE OPENED THIS LITTLE RESTAURANT IN 1936.

MARK STILL HAS ONE OF HIS GRANDFATHER'S OLD CALLING CARDS.

Mark: THIS IS THE LAST ONE LEFT, AND IT HAS A LOGO ON IT.

THE SLOGAN THEY USE SAYS IT ALL -- "SANDWICHES THAT YOU WILL LIKE."

I USED TO THINK WHEN I WAS A KID THESE WERE ALL MY UNCLES.

[ LAUGHS ] Sebak: WELL, THAT'S GONNA BE OUR TITLE -- "SANDWICHES THAT YOU WILL LIKE."

WE'RE GONNA GO AROUND AMERICA TASTING SOME REALLY GREAT SANDWICHES IN INTERESTING PLACES.

OBVIOUSLY, WE CAN'T INCLUDE ALL THE GREAT ONES, AND WE APOLOGIZE IF WE DIDN'T GET TO ONE OF YOUR FAVORITES, BUT WE HOPE THERE WILL BE MORE PROGRAMS LIKE THIS -- SERIOUSLY.

YOU CAN'T GET A SANDWICH LIKE THIS NOWHERE.

"SANDWICHES THAT YOU WILL LIKE" WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY CONTRIBUTIONS TO YOUR PBS STATION FROM VIEWERS LIKE YOU.

THANK YOU.

Sebak: SO, WHAT SORT OF SANDWICHES DO THEY HAVE THERE AT GEORGE'S IN PHILLY?

Mark: WE SELL ROAST PORK, ROAST BEEF, ITALIAN SAUSAGE.

WE MAKE IT ACCORDING TO WHAT YOU WOULD LIKE -- A SWEET OR A HOT, OR A REALLY BURN -- BURN MY...TYPE THING.

IT'S GONNA BURN TONGUE AND TEETH BEFORE ANYWHERE ELSE.

WE HAVE A BARBECUE SANDWICH, AND WE HAVE TRIPE.

UH, TRIPE.

UH, IT'S THE STOMACH OF A COW, AND THAT'S ALSO A VERY GOOD SELLER.

IT'S VERY DIFFICULT TO FIND.

PEOPLE DON'T COOK IT THAT MUCH ANYWAY.

Mark: PEOPLE COME TO THE WINDOW -- "CAN I HAVE A PORK SANDWICH?"

"SURE.

WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE ON IT?"

"HUH?"

THEY DON'T THINK OF -- YOU CAN GET SOMETHING ON THIS SANDWICH TO ENHANCE IT.

NOT THAT IT'S NOT GOOD THIS WAY -- JUST TO ENHANCE IT.

YOU MAY HAVE ANOTHER DIFFERENT FLAVOR.

ONIONS AND HOT PEPPERS?

CHEFS FROM ALL OVER THE COUNTRY MIX SWEET WITH TART AND DIFFERENT TYPES OF FLAVORS THAT, WHEN YOU BITE INTO IT, YOU GET THAT LITTLE BIT OF THIS AND A LITTLE BIT OF THAT, AND THAT'S WHAT MAKES A GREAT SANDWICH.

YEARS AGO, WHEN YOU WERE KIDS, YOUNGSTERS, WHAT WOULD YOU EAT?

PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY SANDWICH.

EVER SINCE I COULD EAT SOLID FOOD, I'VE BEEN EATING PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY SANDWICHES.

I'M A VEGETARIAN, SO PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY.

I'M 26 YEARS OLD AND AN ENGINEER, AND I GET RAZZED ON FOR BRINGING PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY SANDWICHES TO WORK.

AS A KID, I LOVED PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY, AND STILL DO.

IT HAS TO BE CHUNKY PEANUT BUTTER.

I'VE ALWAYS LOVED PEANUT BUTTER SINCE THE DAY I WAS BORN.

Sebak: LEE ZELBAN NOW OWNS AND RUNS AN UNUSUAL SANDWICH SHOP ON SULLIVAN STREET IN GREENWICH VILLAGE IN NEW YORK CITY.

Lee: I GOT THE IDEA FOR PEANUT BUTTER & CO.

WHEN I WAS IN COLLEGE.

MY FRIENDS AND I WOULD HAVE A CONTEST TO SEE WHO COULD COME UP WITH THE CRAZIEST, THE BEST-TASTING PEANUT BUTTER SANDWICH.

I ALWAYS WON, AND I THOUGHT IT'D BE A GREAT IDEA FOR A CAFE.

THIS IS THE COOLEST SANDWICH PLACE -- ALL THE OLD-FASHIONED POSTERS.

WE OPENED IN DECEMBER OF 1998, AND WE'VE BEEN MAKING SANDWICHES EVER SINCE.

I GOT A PEANUT BUTTER CLUB, BASICALLY A DOUBLE-DECKER, TOASTED.

THIS IS THE SPICY PEANUT BUTTER SANDWICH.

IT'S SPICY PEANUT BUTTER, PINEAPPLES, AND GRILLED CHICKEN.

YOU WANT SOME?

Lee: WE MAKE ALL OF OUR PEANUT BUTTER FRESH EVERY DAY.

WE MAKE SIX DIFFERENT KINDS.

Man: I GOT THE WHITE CHOCOLATE.

SHE GOT THE ELVIS.

I CAN'T REALLY EAT THAT MUCH PEANUT BUTTER WITH MY BRACES, SO I GOT A GRILLED CHEESE.

I CAME HERE TODAY BECAUSE I HEARD ABOUT THE ELVIS.

PUT SOME PEANUT BUTTER ON BOTH SLICES OF BREAD.

I HAD THE ELVIS.

Lee: WE'RE GONNA TAKE A BANANA.

EVERYBODY'S A BIG ELVIS FAN.

Lee: WE'RE GONNA SLICE IT INTO QUARTERS... Woman: PEANUT BUTTER AND BANANAS -- GOOD COMBINATION.

...AND LAY THEM DOWN JUST LIKE THIS.

I HAD AN ELVIS.

THEN WE'RE GONNA ADD SOME BACON.

THE BACON IS OPTIONAL.

A LOT OF OUR VEGETARIAN CUSTOMERS ORDER THIS SANDWICH WITHOUT BACON.

THIS IS WHY HE GOT REALLY FAT.

Lee: AND WE'LL ADD A LITTLE BIT OF HONEY.

IT SOUNDS STRANGE, BUT IT WAS ACTUALLY VERY TASTY.

Lee: NOW FOR THE FUN PART -- WE HAVE TO TAKE THIS TO THE GRILL.

ELVIS HEARD ABOUT THIS SANDWICH ONE DAY, AND IT WAS ACTUALLY BEING SERVED AT A RESTAURANT IN COLORADO.

I THINK IT'S JUST AN AMERICAN TRADITION.

Lee: HIM AND HIS BUDDIES HOPPED ON A PLANE AND THEY FLEW OVER.

IT'S UNREAL.

IT'S A TASTE YOU'VE NEVER HAD BEFORE.

Lee: HE HAD IT.

HE ABSOLUTELY LOVED IT.

HE GOT THE RECIPE, FLEW RIGHT BACK HOME, GAVE IT TO HIS COOK, AND HAD HER MAKE A BUNCH FOR HIM AND HIS FRIENDS.

Girl: IT'S THE BEST PEANUT BUTTER I'VE EVER HAD.

I USUALLY DON'T LIKE CHUNKY PEANUT BUTTER, BUT IT'S GOOD.

Man: IT'S VERY EASY TO ASSOCIATE A SANDWICH WITH A MEMORY.

YOU WAKE UP, YOU WATCH CARTOONS, YOU EAT A SANDWICH, PLAY FOR A LITTLE BIT, TAKE A NAP.

IT TAKES YOU BACK TO A GOOD TIME IN YOUR LIFE.

Sebak: AND YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN A SANDWICH MIGHT MAKE YOU REMEMBER SOMETHING YOU DID FOR HOMEWORK ONCE.

I THINK I KNOW WHY IT'S CALLED "SANDWICH."

THERE'S THE EARL OF SANDWICH OR SOMETHING, AND HE PLAYED CARDS ALL THE TIME, BUT HE COULDN'T SIT DOWN AND HAVE A BIG MEAL WHILE HE WAS PLAYING CARDS, SO HE JUST PUT SOMETHING IN BETWEEN BREAD, AND THEY CALLED IT THE SANDWICH.

Sebak: THAT'S RIGHT.

IN THE 18th CENTURY, THE EARL OF SANDWICH GAVE A NAME TO THE STACKING OF MEAT BETWEEN BREAD.

HE'S ALSO THE NAMESAKE OF THIS LITTLE MOTEL IN SANDWICH, MASSACHUSETTS, A TOWN ESTABLISHED LONG BEFORE "SANDWICH" MEANT A FOOD.

NOW YOU CAN FIND SANDWICH HISTORY IN OLD COOKBOOKS, SO WE WENT TO SEE BECKY MERCURI, A FOOD AUTHOR IN WESTERN NEW YORK, WHO HAS SOME 7,000 COOKBOOKS.

Becky: JOHN MONTAGU, THE FOURTH EARL OF SANDWICH, WAS THE FIRST PERSON CREDITED WITH THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE SANDWICH IN 1762.

AND IN AMERICA, WHEN THE SANDWICH FIRST BECAME POPULAR, AND THAT WAS IN THE EARLY 1800s, THEY WERE VERY DAINTY LITTLE THINGS, AND MOSTLY THEY WERE MADE OF HAM.

IT WASN'T UNTIL BREAD WAS COMMONLY AVAILABLE IN LOAF FORM IN THE EARLY 1900s THAT THE SANDWICH BECAME MORE OF A LUNCHEON ITEM, AND THEN IT WAS IN THE 1920s AND 1930s WHERE YOU SEE THE MORE BURLY SANDWICHES THAT WERE SOLD AND EATEN BY WORKING-CLASS FOLKS.

Sebak: WELL, WHAT ABOUT A GREAT SANDWICH IN BECKY'S PART OF THE WORLD?

Becky: THE BIGGEST SANDWICH BY FAR IS BEEF ON WECK.

IT'S PRACTICALLY A RELIGION HERE IN THE BUFFALO AND WESTERN NEW YORK AREA.

Sebak: SO WE WENT TO SCHWABL'S.

PEOPLE THAT GET OFF THE AIRPLANE, THIS IS THE FIRST PLACE THEY COME.

I'VE BEEN COMING TO SCHWABL'S SINCE I WAS 16.

Woman: BASICALLY, EVERYTHING IS HOMEMADE HERE, WHICH MAKES IT SO SPECIAL.

A SPECIAL IS SERVED WITH YOUR CHOICE OF POTATO AND COLESLAW.

Man: I THINK WHAT PEOPLE REALLY LIKE ABOUT IT IS 'CAUSE IT'S JUST A SMALL, LITTLE CORNER RESTAURANT, AND IT'S GOT SOMETHING VERY UNIQUE.

I HAVE AN ORDER FOR A SANDWICH ON KUMMELWECK, AND THE PEOPLE WOULD WANT IT RARE.

SO I'M GONNA MAKE A RARE SANDWICH.

Sebak: IT IS A RARE AMERICAN SANDWICH, PRIMARILY BECAUSE OF THE UNUSUAL KUMMELWECK ROLL, THE SO-CALLED "WECK."

Man: AND IT'S COVERED WITH A COARSE SALT AND CARAWAY SEEDS.

"KUMMEL" IS THE GERMAN WORD FOR "CARAWAY."

Woman: "KUMMELWECK" -- IT'S A "U."

AND IT'S W-E-C-K.

A LOT OF PEOPLE SAY "WICK."

IT'S NOT "WICK," IT'S "WECK."

Sebak: YOU FILL THE WECK WITH BEEF -- HERE, WONDERFUL, BIG CUTS OF BEEF THAT ARE CARVED IN THE DINING ROOM BUT ROASTED IN THE RESTAURANT'S SMALL KITCHEN.

Man: AND ALL OF OUR BEEFS ARE COOKED ROUGHLY 4 1/2 HOURS, AND WE START 'EM AS EARLY AS 6:00 IN THE MORNING.

THAT ONE THERE -- THAT'S 36 POUNDS AND ROUGHLY 4 1/2 HOURS.

Woman: THE SANDWICH ORIGINATED IN THE DAYS WHEN THE SALOONS AND TAVERNS IN THE AREA OFFERED A FREE LUNCH, AND OF COURSE THE OBJECTIVE WAS TO SELL MORE BEER.

Man: THESE BEEFS ARE ALL SLOW-ROASTED.

WE DON'T DO ANYTHING FANCY TO THEM.

IT'S JUST SALT AND PEPPER.

Woman: SO FOOD WAS TYPICALLY SERVED AS SALTY AS YOU COULD POSSIBLY GET IT, AND YOU CAN IMAGINE WHAT A SUCCESS THE ROAST BEEF ON WECK WAS.

Man: OKAY, AND THE SECRET IS CUT IT THIN.

THAT'S WHY THESE KNIVES ARE SO SHARP.

THEY'RE LIKE RAZOR BLADES.

YOU CAN GET IT NICE AND THIN, SO IT'S NICE AND TENDER.

TRIM OUT THE GRISTLE.

WE DIP THE ROLL IN THE AU JUS, GIVE IT A LITTLE MOISTURE AND SOME FLAVOR.

THERE'S YOUR SANDWICH.

OKAY, NOW WE WAIT FOR THE NEXT ORDER.

[ LAUGHS ] Man: AND THE WAITRESSES KEEP YOU IN LINE.

THEY'LL TELL YOU IF IT'S NOT GOOD.

Sebak: SO, THE WAITRESSES RULE.

AND ALL THE SERVERS HERE WEAR WHITE -- WHITE JACKETS FOR THE MEN, WHITE DRESSES FOR THE WOMEN.

Woman: IT IS A NURSE'S UNIFORM.

IT'S A WHITE-DRESS UNIFORM THAT ALL THE GIRLS WEAR.

Man: YOU PUT ON THAT WHITE COAT AND YOU FEEL LIKE, "I'M HERE AT WORK.

THIS IS MY JOB, AND I LOVE IT."

YOU JUST FEEL LIKE A PART OF SOMETHING SPECIAL.

IT'S JUST EXCEPTIONALLY GOOD.

[ LAUGHS ] Woman: NOTHING'S MORE GLAMOROUS THAN A BEEF SANDWICH.

Sebak: YEAH?

WELL, HOW ABOUT A BEEF SANDWICH AT THE BEACH?

THIS IS REVERE BEACH ON BOSTON'S NORTH SHORE.

Man: REVERE BEACH IS THE OLDEST PUBLIC BEACH IN THE UNITED STATES.

WE COME DOWN HERE TO GET A SANDWICH AND TO SIT BY THE WATER AND ENJOY THE BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.

Woman: AS SOON AS I HAD MY LICENSE, I USED TO DRIVE DOWN HERE AND CRUISE THE REVERE BEACH AND EAT KELLY'S ROAST BEEF SANDWICHES.

IT'S A RITE OF PASSAGE -- WHEN SUMMERTIME COMES, YOU HAVE TO COME TO KELLY'S.

Sebak: IT'S A WALK-UP SANDWICH SHOP WITH OCEAN VIEW.

BRIAN McCARTHY KNOWS A LOT OF ITS HISTORY.

Brian: KELLY'S WAS FOUNDED BY MY FATHER, FRANK McCARTHY, AND HIS PARTNER, RAYMOND KERRY, JULY 3, 1951.

IF YOU'VE NEVER EATEN HERE, YOU'VE AT LEAST HEARD OF KELLY'S.

THEY'RE SITTING AT THE BAR, AND I KNOW IT'S HARD TO BELIEVE -- TWO IRISHMEN AT THE BAR -- BUT THEY WERE SITTING AT THE BAR AT NIGHTTIME, TALKING ABOUT BUILDING THIS STAND, AND THEY WERE SAYING, "OH, LET'S CALL IT McCARTHY'S."

HIS PARTNER SAID, "NO, WE'RE GONNA CALL IT KERRY'S."

THE BARTENDER THAT WAS WORKING THERE WAS ONE OF MY FATHER'S AND MR.

KERRY'S BEST FRIENDS.

HIS NAME WAS TOM KELLY.

AFTER HALF A DOZEN COCKTAILS OR SO, "TO HELL WITH IT!

WE'RE GONNA CALL IT KELLY'S."

EVERYONE KNOWS ABOUT IT.

YOU COME TO KELLY'S.

DIDN'T YOU SEE "GOOD WILL HUNTING"?

THEY HAVE SEVERAL LOCATIONS, BUT THIS IS THE BEST LOCATION -- THE REVERE BEACH.

IT'S THE ATMOSPHERE OF THE BEACH AND...EXTRA MAYO -- LARGE ROAST BEEF WITH EXTRA MAYO.

Brian: HOW WE SLICE IT, HOW WE COOK IT, HOW WE TOAST THE ROLL, IS ALL OUR OWN FORMULA.

WHO -- WHO WANTS ROAST BEEF WHEN YOU'RE COMING BY THE OCEAN?

YOU WANT SEAFOOD.

YOU DON'T WANT RED MEAT.

I GET THE CHICKEN FINGERS, AND I'M BRINGING MY HUSBAND A LOBSTER ROLL.

THE ONLY THING TO COME HERE FOR IS THE ROAST BEEF.

SANDWICHES ARE THE BEST.

Man: ...EXCEPT FOR SOME PEOPLE THAT COME UP TO THE WINDOW AND SAY, "DO YOU HAVE ROAST BEEF HERE?"

NOPE.

Man: DIE-HARD PEOPLE LIKE MYSELF, WE EVEN COME IN THE DEAD OF WINTER 'CAUSE IT'S OPEN ALL YEAR 'ROUND.

Brian: EVEN ON A WARM DAY, PEOPLE BUY THEIR PRODUCT, GO INTO THEIR CARS, TURN THE AIR CONDITIONING ON 'CAUSE THAT'S HOW THEY EAT KELLY'S FOOD.

IF IT'S WARM, I'LL GO SIT OVER THERE BY THE WATER.

YOU HAVE TO HAVE LOVE, AND YOU HAVE TO HAVE PRIDE.

IT'S PRIDE IN MY FATHER STARTING THE BUSINESS AND HAVING PRIDE IN WHAT HE DID EVERY DAY, AND THE PRIDE OF ALL THESE PEOPLE COMING HERE, KNOWING THEY'RE GONNA GET THE SAME PRODUCT YEAR AFTER YEAR.

IT'S JUST MORE THAN A JOB.

IT'S A LOVE I HAVE FOR THE BUSINESS.

Woman: THEY HAVE THE BEST ROAST BEEF IN THE WORLD, AND I'VE LIVED ALL OVER THE WORLD, SO I CAN SAY THAT.

Sebak: SAY WHAT YOU WILL, IF YOU LIVE IN CHICAGO, OR IF YOU'RE JUST VISITING, YOU'D DO WELL TO LISTEN TO PAT BRUNO, AUTHOR AND FOOD CRITIC, WHO KNOWS ABOUT ITALIAN BEEF.

Pat: IT'S A CHICAGO THING, OKAY?

IT'S WHERE IT STARTED AND WHERE IT GREW UP.

AN ITALIAN BEEF IS SO INDIGENOUS TO CHICAGO THAT YOU CAN ONLY GET IT HERE.

MY FAVORITE -- IT'S ITALIAN BEEF.

IF I GO TOO LONG WITHOUT HAVING ONE, I START GETTING CRAVINGS.

AS SOON AS YOU BITE INTO IT, YOU CAN JUST FEEL THE BEEF AND THE JUICES GOING THROUGH YOUR VEINS -- IT'S EMPOWERING.

IT'S THE GIARDINIERA, THE BEEF, THE GRAVY -- JUST THE WAY THEY MAKE IT.

A NICE GROUP OF GUYS, TOO.

Man: THEY'RE GREAT GUYS, FIRST OF ALL.

THEY'RE ALWAYS HERE.

THEY'RE ALWAYS WORKING THE BUSINESS.

THESE GUYS KNOW WHAT THEY'RE DOING.

Sebak: "THESE GUYS" AT MR.

BEEF ARE DOMINIC ZUCCHERO AND HIS BROTHER JOE.

Joe: DOM USUALLY TAKES CARE OF FRONT, AND I USUALLY TAKE CARE OF THE BACK.

I DON'T DO TOO MUCH ANYMORE, YOU KNOW?

Sebak: BACK IN THE KITCHEN, TODD KRUCZEK DOES A LOT OF THE WORK.

Todd: THIS IS HOW WE MAKE OUR GRAVY.

I STARTED WITH THE SALT.

PUT SO MUCH SALT IN -- I CAN'T TELL YOU.

I CAN'T REVEAL TOO MUCH SECRETS, OKAY?

Man: EVERYBODY'S GOT THEIR OWN LITTLE, DIFFERENT "SECRET."

CAN'T GIVE OUT THE SECRET.

OREGANO, AND A LITTLE BIT OF CRUSHED RED.

BUT THE REAL SECRET, IN MANY PLACES -- GARLIC JUICE.

AND GARLIC JUICE -- GOT THE NATURAL JUICES FROM THE BEEF MIXED WITH THE SPICES AND THE WATER.

IT MAKES A BEAUTIFUL GRAVY.

THIS IS KIND OF DISGUSTING.

ALL MY ITALIAN FRIENDS TELL ME THIS IS PRETTY GROSS.

I USUALLY ASK FOR THE JUICE ON THE SIDE, AND I'LL DRINK THAT STUFF LIKE IT'S SOUP.

THAT'S HOW MUCH I LIKE ITALIAN BEEF SANDWICHES.

Todd: SOME PEOPLE LIKE IT DRY.

SOME PEOPLE LIKE IT DIPPED IN THE GRAVY.

JUST HOT PEPPERS AND DIPPED.

SOME PEOPLE LIKE THE COMBO.

YOU GET SAUSAGE ON THE BOTTOM WITH A LITTLE BEEF ON TOP.

WHOEVER INVENTED IT SHOULD GET A NOBEL PRIZE.

YOU GOT TO PUT YOUR FEET ABOUT AS WIDE AS YOUR SHOULDERS.

WHEN I FIRST CAME, I COULDN'T IMAGINE STANDING UP AND EATING.

NOW YOU GO... AFTER ABOUT TWO TIMES, I REALIZED IT'S THE ONLY WAY TO EAT A BEEF.

MMM.

GOOD.

WHOA!

NEVER DO THAT.

[ LAUGHS ] I NEED FOUR TO GO.

Sebak: OKAY, WE'LL GO, TOO -- ON TO MARSHALLTOWN, IOWA, WHERE A SMALL VINTAGE FRANCHISE RESTAURANT CALLED TAYLOR'S MAID-RITE MAKES AN UNUSUAL GROUND-BEEF SANDWICH KNOWN AS A MAID-RITE.

IT'S JUST LIKE HAMBURGER, BUT IT'S LOOSE MEAT.

JUST A LOOSE-MEAT SANDWICH AND A BUNCH OF MEAT ON A BUN.

Man: OUR MOST-ORDERED MEAL WOULD BE ONE OR TWO MAID-RITES AND A MALT.

WE HAVE REALLY GOOD MALTS AS WELL, BUT MAID-RITES ARE OUR STAPLE.

Sebak: DON TAYLOR SHORT AND HIS ANCESTORS HAVE BEEN MAKING MAID-RITES FOR QUITE A WHILE.

Don: TAYLOR'S MAID-RITE WAS STARTED IN 1928 BY MY GREAT-GRANDFATHER.

WE STARTED ACROSS THE STREET.

WE WERE THERE FROM 1928 TO 1958.

1958, WE MOVED INTO OUR CURRENT LOCATION.

AND IF YOU LOOK AROUND, YOU CAN SEE WE'VE TRIED VERY HARD NOT TO CHANGE ANYTHING.

Woman: TASTES GOOD, THE BEEF.

IT'S DIFFERENT, FRESH.

IT'S IOWA.

THE BEEF IS HOMEGROWN, AND THEY GRIND IT IN THE BASEMENT.

Man: MOST PEOPLE KNOW THERE'S A BASEMENT FOR THE STUFF FOR THE COWS, BUT THEY'VE NEVER BEEN DOWN HERE TO SEE IT.

Don: THIS IS OUR MEAT LOCKER.

WE GET IN FRONT QUARTERS AND HINDQUARTERS.

THEY COME IN LIKE THIS WITH THE BONES IN THEM.

WE BONE THEM OUT.

WHAT WE DO IS JUST GET THE MAJORITY OF THE BONES OUT.

THEN WE'LL TRIM ALL THE BONES LATER.

Don: WE USE ALL THE CUTS OF THE MEAT.

MOST PLACES THAT HAVE HAMBURGER, IT'S JUST THE TRIMMINGS.

WE USE ALL THE PRIME CUTS.

WE GO THROUGH PROBABLY 300 TO 400 POUNDS OF HAMBURGER PER DAY.

Man: BY NOON HOUR, SHOULD BE UPSTAIRS IN THE COOKER.

Don: THIS COOKER WAS ACROSS THE STREET AS THEIR -- STAINLESS-STEEL TABLE HAS BEEN REBUILT AROUND IT, BUT IT'S STILL THE SAME COOKER.

Sebak: IT'S JUST BEEF -- NO SEASONING -- BUT YOU ALWAYS GET WATER AND A SPOON.

THAT SPOON IS THE FIRST THING THAT HITS THE COUNTER.

IT'S FUN TO EAT A HAMBURGER WITH A SPOON.

IT THROWS PEOPLE.

WITHOUT THE SPOON, IT'S NOTHING.

ONCE YOU GET DONE WITH THE SANDWICH ITSELF, THEN YOU HAVE TO GO IN AND GET THE REST OF IT OUT.

THAT'S WHAT MAKES IT SO GOOD.

I EAT ABOUT FIVE OF THESE EVERY DAY.

SO FAR, THREE.

I JUST ORDERED ANOTHER ONE.

Don: AND THEY'RE A THIRD OF A POUND OF BEEF...PLUS THE BUN.

WE ARE A REGIONAL FOOD.

I SAY WE'RE AN ETHNIC FOOD, AND THE ETHNIC IS IOWA.

Woman: YOU DON'T FIND THESE ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE NATION, AS FAR AS I KNOW, AND I'VE LIVED ALL OVER THE NATION.

IT'S JUST PART OF YOUR CHILDHOOD THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE WITH THE CHILDREN.

Don: MARSHALLTOWN IS VERY PROTECTIVE OF TAYLOR'S MAID-RITE.

IT'S ISN'T JUST -- IT'S A FAMILY STORE THAT MY FAMILY'S HAD THE OPERATIONS ON DAY-TO-DAY, BUT THE COMMUNITY OWNS IT IN THAT THEY USE IT ALL THE TIME, OR WE WOULDN'T BE HERE.

Sebak: COMMUNITIES DO BECOME FIERCELY LOYAL TO THEIR LOCAL SANDWICHES.

IN PHILADELPHIA, WHERE THE WORD "STEAKS" OFTEN MEANS "STEAK SANDWICHES," MANY PLACES, LIKE HERE AT DALESANDRO'S IN ROXBOROUGH, HAVE CHAMPIONS WHO CLAIM THAT THIS ONE IS THE BEST.

BUT AT SOME POINT, EVERY TRUE SANDWICH LOVER IS GONNA MAKE THE PILGRIMAGE TO SOUTH PHILLY... WHO'S NEXT, PLEASE?

...TO THE INTERSECTION OF NINTH AND PASSYUNK FOR AT LEAST ONE CHEESESTEAK.

Man: USUALLY, IT'S A RIB EYE OF BEEF THAT'S SLICED EITHER THIN OR THICK, AND IT'S JUST THROWN ON THE GRILL AND COOKED.

Sebak: WE MET HOLLY MOORE THERE.

HE'S A FOOD WRITER WITH A WEBSITE CALLED hollyeats.com, AND HE KNOWS PHILADELPHIA.

Holly: HERE THEY GET CHEESESTEAKS.

YOU GO ANYPLACE ELSE, YOU GET THE SAME SANDWICH, YOU GET A PHILLY CHEESESTEAK.

Man: THIS IS PHILADELPHIA CULTURE -- CHEESESTEAKS, EATING OUTSIDE IN SOUTH PHILADELPHIA.

SOMETIMES WE MAKE A SPECIAL ROAD TRIP AND COME TO EAT, AND THEN WE'LL DRIVE RIGHT BACK.

EVERY TIME WE'RE AROUND ATLANTIC CITY OR PHILADELPHIA, WE STOP HERE.

I HAVE THREE STEAK SANDWICHES, AND ONE OF THEM'S GOING BACK TO NORTH CAROLINA.

Holly: THERE'S REALLY TWO CHOICES.

FIRST IS WHETHER YOU WANT ONIONS OR DON'T WANT ONIONS ON IT.

CHEESE WITH ONIONS.

WITH, W-I-T-H.

WITH.

CHEESE WITH ONIONS.

Holly: AND SECONDLY AND MORE IMPORTANTLY IS WHETHER YOU WANT IT WITH CHEESE OR WITHOUT CHEESE.

AND IF YOU GO CHEESE, WHETHER YOU WANT CHEEZ WHIZ OR WHETHER YOU WANT PROVOLONE OR AMERICAN CHEESE.

SHE LIKES HERS WITH WHIZ.

I LIKE MINE WITH AMERICAN.

I LIKE PROVOLONE WITH ONIONS OR WHIZ WITH ONIONS.

Holly: FOR SOME REASON, CERTAIN THINGS JUST GO TOGETHER.

CHEEZ WHIZ AND A PHILADELPHIA CHEESESTEAK.

THE TWO BIG CHEESESTEAK PLACES IN SOUTH PHILLY ARE GENO'S AND PAT'S.

Man: WHEN I WAS A KID, I USED TO GO TO PAT'S.

Holly: AS FAR AS I KNOW, THE CHEESESTEAK STARTED AT PAT'S.

AND A GUY NAMED PAT OLIVIERI OPENED UP.

I WAS A YOUNG KID.

I WENT TO PAT'S.

THEN I STARTED COMING TO GENO'S BACK IN, SAY, '77.

YOU CAN STAND RIGHT HERE IN THE CENTER BETWEEN PAT'S AND GENO'S AND ASK PEOPLE WALKING BY, YOU'LL PROBABLY GET 50-50.

GENO'S IS THE PLACE.

PAT'S IS THE BEST.

BEHIND ME IS THE FLASHIER GENO'S, AND OVER HERE IS WHERE THE REAL SANDWICH IS -- PAT'S.

Sebak: PAT'S KING OF STEAKS IS A FUNKY LITTLE PLACE -- BEEN HERE SINCE 1930.

THE LINE CAN BE LONG.

Woman: IT'S CRAZY -- CRAZIEST PLACE TO COME.

IT'S BEEN FROM OUR FATHERS TO OUR GRANDFATHERS.

HE GETS THE EXTRA CHEESE.

YOU CAN TELL FROM HIS T-SHIRT.

Woman: OUR CHEESESTEAKS ARE GOOD.

NOT BECAUSE I WORK HERE, BUT THEY'RE GOOD.

Holly: PAT'S IS MORE GUTSY.

IT'S SOUTH PHILLY.

IT'S WHERE THE PEOPLE WHO GREW UP EATING PAT'S NOW COME TO PAT'S.

AND THE PEOPLE WHO MAYBE MOVED INTO TOWN, THE YUPPIES AND ALL, LIKE GENO'S BECAUSE IT'S A LITTLE MORE CIVILIZED, MORE GENTRIFIED.

Man: MORE SPACE.

AND THAT'S A HELLHOLE OVER THERE.

IT'S A FRIENDLY RIVALRY, BUT NOT THAT FRIENDLY.

Man: JOE VENTO'S THE OWNER.

BACK IN 1966, HE HAD AN IDEA FOR A STEAK STOP.

SO HE FIGURED, "WHERE'S THE BEST PLACE TO OPEN THAN ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE SO-CALLED KING?"

HE OPENED UP.

THEY GAVE HIM SIX MONTHS.

AND HE STRUGGLED FOR A WHILE, AND HE BUILT IT INTO A MULTIMILLION-DOLLAR EMPIRE.

THIS IS VERY GOOD.

THE ATMOSPHERE, THE PEOPLE... THE SAUTé OF THE ONIONS.

AND THEY WIN THE SPIFFY SPARKLY AWARD, TOO.

WE GOT TO RATE GENO'S NUMBER ONE.

AND TELL GENO HE OWES ME FOR THAT.

Holly: THE MOST INTIMIDATING THING ABOUT YOUR FIRST TIME IS HOW TO ORDER.

Man: PEOPLE FROM OUT OF TOWN DIDN'T KNOW HOW TO ORDER.

AND THEY WOULD HOLD THE LINE UP UNTIL WHICH TIMES THE GUYS IN LINE MADE IT REAL SHORT -- "YOU WANT IT WITH?

YOU WANT IT WITHOUT?"

Man: YOU GOT A LINE AROUND THE BUILDING.

"CAN I GET A COKE?"

NO, NEXT WINDOW.

"CAN I GET FRIES?"

NO, NEXT WINDOW.

"WHY?

WHY CAN'T I GET FRIES?

WHY CAN'T I GET A COKE?"

WHY?

BECAUSE WE'RE BUSY OVER HERE.

GO TO THE OTHER WINDOW!

SOMETIMES THEY SAY WE'RE RUDE, BUT WE'RE TRYING TO ACCOMMODATE ALL THESE CUSTOMERS OUT HERE.

IT'S HARD WHEN YOU'VE GOT ONE PERSON SITTING AT THE WINDOW.

Woman: THEN THE NEXT PERSON WILL COME, "CAN I GET A COKE AND FRIES AND A CHEESESTEAK?"

NO!

I JUST TOLD THAT PERSON!

GO TO THE NEXT WINDOW!

Holly: AND YOU GOT TO COME OUT AND YOU GOT TO SAY, "WHIZ WITH."

AND YOU GOT TO SAY IT RIGHT.

YOU CAN'T, LIKE, SAY, "I WANT A CHEESESTEAK, AND I WANT IT WITH FRIED ONIONS."

THAT'S WAY TOO MUCH TIME.

CAN'T TAKE THE SOUTH PHILLY OUT OF ME.

I'M SORRY.

Holly: YOU GOT TO DECIDE FOR YOURSELF.

YOU GO TO PAT'S FIRST.

YOU GO TO GENO'S FIRST.

THEN YOU GO TO THE OTHER PLACE.

Sebak: AND EVENTUALLY YOU MAY DECIDE TO GO ON TO OTHER CITIES -- TO ST.

LOUIS, FOR EXAMPLE, WHICH HAS MANY UNUSUAL SANDWICHES.

IN NORTH COUNTY, AT ONE C&K BARBECUE RUN BY DARYLE BRANTLEY, YOU CAN TASTE A PIG-EAR SANDWICH AND "SNOOTS" MADE FROM PIG SNOUTS.

Daryle: BAKED TILL THEY'RE REAL CRISP, SMOTHERED WITH OUR BARBECUE SAUCE AND A SCOOP OF POTATO SALAD ON IT.

Sebak: POTATO SALAD AS A TOPPING IS A NICE THOUGHT, BUT, YOU KNOW, IN ST.

LOUIS, YOU CAN GO TO A NEIGHBORHOOD BAR LIKE FERGUSON'S AND GET A BRAIN SANDWICH.

IT'S GOOD BRAIN.

GOOD BRAIN SANDWICH.

YEP.

Sebak: BUT IF YOU'RE IN ST.

LOUIS AND YOU'RE NOT INTO INNARDS, THERE'S ALWAYS THE UNUSUAL ST.

PAUL SANDWICH.

Man: YOU CAN PRETTY MUCH COUNT ON GETTING A ST.

PAUL SANDWICH AT ANY STOREFRONT CHINESE RESTAURANT, ESPECIALLY IN THE CITY OF ST.

LOUIS.

Sebak: THOMAS CRONE IS A FREELANCE WRITER WHO WROTE AN ONLINE ARTICLE ABOUT ST.

PAUL SANDWICHES.

HE AND HIS BUDDY KURT GROETSCH LED US TO KIM VAN RESTAURANT, WHERE THEY SAID THE ST.

PAULS WERE PRETTY GOOD.

OH, MAN, THEY'RE DELICIOUS.

THERE'S JUST -- IT'S A GOOD TASTE.

IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR JUNK FOOD, IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR CHEAP JUNK FOOD, YOU CAN'T DO ANY BETTER.

IT'S VERY FILLING.

I'D LIKE A VESS PINEAPPLE AND A PLAIN ST.

PAUL, PLEASE.

PLAIN.

Thomas: SO, IF YOU'VE GOT $2 IN YOUR POCKET, YOU KNOW YOU CAN ALWAYS GO IN A PLACE LIKE THIS AND GET ONE FOR MAYBE $1.20, $1.50.

Woman: AND A ST.

PAUL IS MADE LIKE EGG FU YUNG PATTIES, AND THEY MAKE FROM EGGS AND HOT OIL.

Kurt: I'VE HAD THE SPECIAL BEFORE.

I'VE HAD THE PORK BEFORE.

I'VE HAD THE SHRIMP ST.

PAUL SANDWICH BEFORE, AND I TEND TO PREFER THE PORK.

Woman: EVERY CHINESE RESTAURANT WE HAVE IT, BUT THEY MAKE THE SAME WAY.

BUT THE SAUCE -- THEY HAVE DIFFERENT WAY THEY DO.

Sebak: JENIFER NGUYEN AND HER HUSBAND, ISLAND, HAVE RUN KIM VAN SINCE THE MID-'90s, BUT THEY AND THOMAS KNOW NO HISTORY OF THIS SANDWICH WITH ITS ODD NAME.

Thomas: I'VE ASKED SEVERAL PEOPLE ABOUT THE NAME AND HAVE NEVER GOTTEN A REALLY CLEAR ANSWER ON THAT, BUT I REALLY DON'T HAVE ANY IDEA WHY IT'S CALLED A ST.

PAUL.

AS I OPEN IT UP, YOU SEE THE BASIC INGREDIENTS, WHICH IS TWO PIECES OF WHITE BREAD, LIBERALLY SLATHERED WITH MAYONNAISE.

YOU'VE GOT YOUR RATHER THICK SLICE OF TOMATO, YOUR EGG FU YUNG PATTY... MMM.

AND THAT'S A GOOD SANDWICH.

IT'S ALSO KIND OF A UNIQUE LOCAL THING.

SO IT'S KIND OF COOL JUST TO EAT A ST.

PAUL, ESPECIALLY WITH PEOPLE WHO ARE FROM OUT OF TOWN WHO MAY NOT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE.

WELL, JENIFER AND ISLAND ARE ORIGINALLY FROM VIETNAM, AND THIS IS NOT LIKE ANY SANDWICH THEY KNEW BACK HOME.

OH, VIETNAM, THEY DON'T HAVE IT.

THEY HAVE A DIFFERENT TYPE OF THE BREAD.

Island: IN VIETNAM, THEY SAY "BANH MI."

Jenifer: BANH MI.

IT MEANS BREAD WITH THE SPECIAL MEAT.

Sebak: BANH MI ARE SPECIAL SANDWICHES -- VIETNAMESE SANDWICHES THAT YOU CAN FIND IN MANY CITIES WHERE'S THERE'S A VIETNAMESE NEIGHBORHOOD, LIKE HERE IN SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA.

Man: THE NAME OF THE STORE IS HUONG LAN SANDWICH.

"HUONG" IS LIKE THE SMELL OF THE FLOWER, AND "LAN" IS LIKE THE NAME OF THE FLOWER, JUST "FLOWER."

Sebak: THAT'S PATRICK LAM.

HIS PARENTS STARTED THIS BUSINESS SOME 20 YEARS AGO, NOW THEY'VE GOT FOUR LOCATIONS HERE AND IN SACRAMENTO.

SANDWICHES ARE THEIR SPECIALTY, MADE HERE ON SMALL LOAVES OF CRUSTY BREAD, WHICH THE FRENCH TAUGHT THE VIETNAMESE TO MAKE.

THEY CALL BANH MI.

Patrick: BANH MI IS JUST THE BREAD.

Woman: BANH MI IS JUST BREAD, BUT YOU HAVE TO SAY WHAT KIND OF MEAT YOU WANT OR WHAT KIND OF INGREDIENTS AND STUFF IN IT.

IF YOU WANT CHICKEN, YOU WOULD SAY, "BANH MI YA."

THAT'S LIKE, "I WANT CHICKEN BREAD."

WE PUT JALAPEÑOS, CILANTRO, ONIONS, CARROTS, HAM, AND HEAD CHEESE AND PATé.

WE GOT THE PORK, RIGHT, GUYS?

I GOT THE BARBECUED CHICKEN.

NUMBER SEVEN IS GRILLED PORK.

THE GRILLED PORK SANDWICH IS VERY GOOD, SO I LIKE IT.

Patrick: AND THAT'S A GRILLED PORK AND A LITTLE PEANUT AND THAT LITTLE ONIONS.

THE BREAD IS NICE AND CRISPY AND FRESH.

THEY HAVE IN VIETNAM, THE SAME THING.

ACTUALLY, I NEVER TASTED SANDWICH THERE.

WE STARTED FROM HERE.

WE NEVER HAD THIS KIND OF SANDWICH IN VIETNAM BECAUSE WE WERE OVER HERE LITTLE.

WELL, IN VIETNAM, I NEVER HAD THIS KIND OF SANDWICH 'CAUSE WE'RE SO POOR.

AT FIRST THEY CUT THE BREAD, AND THEY PUT THE HOUSE BUTTER.

AND THEN THEY PUT THE MEAT IN AND THEN ALL THE VEGETABLE, AND THE LITTLE SPICY -- YOU KNOW, SALT AND PEPPER AND SOY SAUCE -- AND WRAP IT UP, AND THAT'S A SANDWICH.

THIS IS RELATIVELY INEXPENSIVE FOR US, YOU KNOW, SO IT'S LIKE $1.75.

UH-HUH.

IT'S VERY CHEAP.

REALLY CHEAP.

Patrick: OUR 12 SANDWICHES HAVE DIFFERENT TASTES, ALL DIFFERENT TASTES SO THAT'S WHY WE ATTRACT CUSTOMERS IN -- BECAUSE IT'S TASTY AND IT'S REASONABLE PRICE.

IT'S AFFORDABLE... AND IT TASTES GOOD.

Sebak: BANH MI DO TASTE GOOD.

I LEARNED TO LIKE THEM IN PITTSBURGH, WHERE LUCY SHEETS SELLS THEM IN WHAT'S CALLED THE STRIP, THE WHOLESALE PRODUCE DISTRICT.

THAT'S ALSO WHERE YOU'LL FIND PRIMANTI BROTHERS, WHERE TONI HAGERTY MAKES PITTSBURGH'S MOST FAMOUS SANDWICHES, ALL SORTS OF GRILLED MEATS, FRENCH FRIES, TOMATOES, AND COLESLAW, ALL BETWEEN TWO SLICES OF BREAD.

THAT'S A PRIMANTI'S SANDWICH!

BUT AMONG PITTSBURGHERS OF A CERTAIN AGE, THE MOST BELOVED SANDWICH MAY BE A CHIPPED HAM SANDWICH, PREFERABLY FROM AN ISALY'S.

CHIPPED HAM WAS OUR FAVORITE.

MATTER OF FACT, MY BROTHER -- IT WOULD BE NO BIG DEAL FOR HIM AT ALL -- HE'D GET SANDWICH BUNS FROM ISALY'S AND EAT SEVEN OR EIGHT SANDWICHES AT NIGHTTIME.

Man: A WHOLE GENERATION OF PITTSBURGHERS GREW UP EATING ISALY'S PRODUCTS.

I HAVE A FRIEND IN MARYLAND WHO MOVED FROM PITTSBURGH, AND EACH TIME I GO DOWN THERE, HE ALWAYS ASKS ME TO BRING HIM SOME CHIPPED HAM.

THERE'S NOTHING LIKE ISALY'S CHIPPED CHOPPED HAM.

DON'T LET ANYONE TELL YOU OTHER.

Sebak: WELL, THERE WERE ONCE SOME 80 ISALY'S DAIRY STORES IN THE PITTSBURGH AREA.

THERE ARE VERY FEW LEFT.

THIS WONDERFUL ONE IN WEST VIEW IS RUN BY TOM AND GAYLE WEISBECKER.

THEY KNOW WHAT CHIPPED HAM IS.

HAM CHIPPED THIN.

THIN, THIN, THIN.

IT'S PIECES OF CHOPPED HAM IN BASICALLY A SYRUP, LIKE A SPAM PRODUCT, SLICED WAFER THIN.

BETTER THAN SPAM.

WELL, IT'S SO TASTY, AND IT'S NOT GREASY.

I JUST GREW UP EATING IT, AND THERE'S NOTHING LIKE ISALY'S CHIPPED HAM.

Sebak: WELL, YOU CAN GET A LOT OF THINGS AT THIS ISALY'S.

YOU CAN GET BREAKFAST.

YOU CAN GET LUNCH.

YOU CAN GET ICE CREAM.

CHIPPED HAM SANDWICHES.

YOU CAN GET LOST IF WE DON'T LIKE YOU.

YEAH, YOU CAN GET LOST IF WE DON'T LIKE YOU.

Sebak: BUT THEY DO HAVE A WIDE ARRAY OF GREAT SANDWICHES, SOME WITH FUNNY NAMES.

THE BOMBER.

CLUB SANDWICHES, THE RISER, WHICH IS MADE WITH EGGS, CHEESE, LETTUCE, AND TOMATO, AND SOME CHIPPED HAM, AND, OF COURSE, THE SLAMMER.

YEAH, THE SLAMMER.

IT'S ACTUALLY A HALF-POUND OF CHIPPED HAM.

HERE WE ARE, MAKING THE WORLD-FAMOUS SLAMMER.

WE ARE SAUTéING DELICIOUS SWEET ONIONS.

IT GOT ITS NAME BECAUSE EVERY WEDNESDAY, MR.

DEVLIN, THE JUSTICE OF THE PEACE ACROSS THE STREET, HOLDS COURT.

AND WE NOTICED A LOT OF OUR CUSTOMERS THEN SEEMED TO BE GOING FROM HERE TO THERE, SO WE DECIDED TO NAME OUR SPECIAL ON WEDNESDAY SOMETHING APROPOS FOR THE CLIENTELE THAT GO IN AND OUT OF THE JUSTICE DEPARTMENT.

BAM!

SO WE CALLED IT THE SLAMMER.

Sebak: IT'S NOT A COMPLICATED SANDWICH, BUT THEIR BUNS HERE ARE SO NICE.

LIGHT AND AIRY.

AND BAKED RIGHT HERE ON THE PREMISES.

YOU END UP WITH ONE EXTRAORDINARY PITTSBURGH SANDWICH.

CHIPPED HAM SORT OF GIVES YOU A TASTE OF THE PAST... A PITTSBURGH PAST.

Man: THERE'S SOMETHING ABOUT PITTSBURGH IN IT.

I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS.

I GUESS 'CAUSE NO ONE SEEMS TO KNOW ABOUT IT EXCEPT PITTSBURGHERS.

YOU GO ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE COUNTRY, AND THEY LOOK AT YOU FUNNY.

Sebak: WELL, IF YOU'RE IN LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY, NO ONE WILL LOOK AT YOU FUNNY WHEN YOU ORDER A HOT BROWN SANDWICH.

IT WAS NAMED FOR THE BROWN HOTEL THAT WAS NAMED FOR J. GRAHAM BROWN, ITS FOUNDER IN THE EARLY '20s.

THE CHEF THERE TODAY, JOE CASTRO, SAYS HE'S KNOWN ABOUT HOT BROWN SANDWICHES SINCE HE WAS A BOY.

Joe: MY MOM IS FROM KENTUCKY, SO AS WE GREW UP, SHE MADE SURE WE TRIED ALL THE WONDERFUL THINGS FROM KENTUCKY.

ONE OF THOSE STOPS WAS, NATURALLY, HERE AT THE BROWN.

WE SAT DOWN AND HAD A HOT BROWN.

YOU CAN HAVE THE HOT BROWN REALLY THROUGHOUT THE STATE OF KENTUCKY, BUT IT WAS INVENTED HERE AT THIS HOTEL.

THERE WAS A CHEF HERE IN 1923 NAMED FRED SCHMIDT, AND HE INVENTED THIS, THEY SAY.

AND IT WAS SERVED LATE AT NIGHT AFTER PEOPLE HAD BEEN DANCING AND DRINKING AND ALL THAT.

AND NOW AT DERBY TIME, THE PHONE JUST RINGS OFF THE HOOK 'CAUSE EVERYBODY WANTS TO MAKE A HOT BROWN ON DERBY DAY.

Sebak: JOE SAYS YOU START WITH A ROUX OF BUTTER AND FLOUR AND HEAT UP SOME MILK AND CREAM.

WE TAKE OUR PARMESAN CHEESE, WHISK THIS IN.

IF YOU'VE EVER MADE AN ALFREDO, IT'S THE SAME IDEA.

WE'RE GONNA WORK THIS CHEESE IN TILL IT'S FULLY DISSOLVED.

MY FIRST TASTE OF ONE, AND I NEVER HEARD HEARD OF IT.

I WAS DATING A YOUNG GIRL WHEN I WAS IN MY TEENS, AND HER MOTHER MADE ONE AT HOME.

WE'LL GO AHEAD AND WE'LL TAKE OUR ROUX, AND WE'RE GONNA COOK THIS IN AS WELL.

I'VE LOVED IT EVER SINCE.

IT'S ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I EVER ATE.

WE'RE GONNA ADD SOME SALT AND PEPPER.

IT'S A GREAT SANDWICH 'CAUSE IT'S HOT... AND THIS IS WHERE THE FUN COMES IN.

WE'RE GONNA TAKE OUR EGG YOLK.

WE'LL TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF OUR CREAM MIXTURE, AND THIS IS CALLED TEMPERING AN EGG.

YOU'RE GONNA MIX THAT IN.

PLENTY OF CHEESE.

LOTS OF BACON.

AND ONCE YOU HAVE A BEAUTIFUL SAUCE LIKE THIS, WE CAN GO AHEAD AND GET READY TO PREPARE OUR HOT BROWN AND GET IT IN THE OVEN.

YOU CAN GET THEM OTHER PLACES, BUT THEY'RE NOT IDENTICAL TO THIS.

WE'LL TAKE SOME BREAD.

THIS IS AN EGG BREAD WHERE WE'VE TRIMMED THE CRUST AWAY.

WE'LL TAKE SOME FRESH-ROASTED TURKEY, SHINGLE IT ACROSS THE TOP.

Woman: THE TURKEY WAS TENDER AND WITH THE BRACES, IT'S HARD TO EAT THINGS THAT ARE KIND OF CHEWY AND TOUGH, AND THAT WAS -- IT MELTED IN YOUR MOUTH.

WE'RE GONNA TAKE OUR SAUCE WE MADE EARLIER AND POUR IT ALL OVER THE TOP.

IT'S A GOOD COMFORT FOOD.

IT WOULD BE GOOD ON LIKE A COLD WINTER'S NIGHT I THINK, SO I REALLY LIKE IT.

WE'LL ADD SOME TOMATO... AND SOME PARMESAN CHEESE.

AND FROM HERE, YOU'RE READY TO GO IN AN OVEN AT 450 DEGREES UNTIL IT'S BUBBLY AND GOLDEN BROWN.

ANYWHERE IN LOUISVILLE ALMOST, FOR LUNCH, WILL TYPICALLY HAVE A HOT BROWN.

THEY VARY DIFFERENTLY.

EVERYWHERE.

I'VE SEEN PEACHES ON THEM.

I'VE SEEN CHEEZ WHIZ ON THEM.

I MEAN, YOU NAME IT, IT'S ON THERE.

BUT THIS IS WHAT THE TRADITIONAL ONE IS LIKE.

THOSE OTHER ONES ARE GOOD, BUT THIS IS WHERE IT STARTED, SO WE TRY TO KEEP IT THE WAY IT SHOULD BE.

Sebak: THE WAY A SANDWICH SHOULD BE CAN BE DISPUTED.

BUT WHEN THERE'S A GREAT ONE, PEOPLE WILL GO ANYWHERE TO FIND IT, EVEN TO A LITTLE ROADSIDE STAND.

Al: THIS BUILDING HERE USED TO BE A TRAILER.

BEEN HERE SINCE '38.

AND WHEN I BOUGHT IT 25 YEARS AGO, I KEPT THE NAME -- RED'S.

Sebak: SO AL GAGNON, WHO OWNS THIS PLACE AND MAKES THE SANDWICHES, IS NOT NAMED RED.

NO, NO.

I BOUGHT THE BUSINESS.

AND AUTOMATICALLY, I TURNED TO RED...WITH THIS.

[ LAUGHS ] ONE OF THE ORIGINAL OWNERS' NAME WAS RED DELANO.

AND EVERYONE JUST KEPT THE NAME, RED'S EATS.

Sebak: THAT'S AL'S DAUGHTER, DEBBIE CRONK.

TOGETHER THEY RUN THIS PLACE THAT'S A LANDMARK ON ROUTE 1 IN WISCASSET, MAINE.

WELL, SOMEBODY SAID THIS -- YOU HAVE THE BEST LOBSTER ROLLS IN MAINE HERE.

THAT'S ABSOLUTELY CORRECT.

PROBABLY IN THE COUNTRY, THEN.

IN THE UNIVERSE.

Debbie: PEOPLE THINK ABOUT LOBSTER, THEY THINK ABOUT MAINE.

THAT'S TOGETHER.

AND WHEN THEY COME TO MAINE, THAT'S WHAT THEY WANT TO EXPERIENCE IF THEY'VE NEVER EXPERIENCED IT, SO... TOLD HER, I SAID, "AHH, WE'RE IN MAINE.

WE'RE GONNA GET A LOBSTER SANDWICH."

I CAME HERE YESTERDAY FOR THE FIRST TIME, AND IT WAS SO GOOD, I CAME BACK TODAY.

Sebak: AND REMEMBER HOLLY MOORE FROM PHILADELPHIA?

HE WAS THERE, TOO.

Holly: USUALLY WHEN I'M HERE, THERE'S GONNA BE A LINE OF MAYBE 5 OR 10 PEOPLE AHEAD OF ME.

THERE'S ALWAYS LONG LINES, BUT IT'S WORTH IT.

I'VE ALWAYS TOLD THE NEW PEOPLE, "DON'T LOOK AT THE LINE."

Holly: IT'S GONNA TAKE ABOUT 20 MINUTES TO GET MY LOBSTER ROLL.

BECAUSE IF YOU LOOK AT THE LINE, YOU'LL GO CRAZED.

Holly: THERE'S NOTHING FANCY ABOUT IT, NO WAITERS OR WAITRESSES.

YOU GO UP -- NUMBER 48, ALL SET.

YOU GO UP, YOU PLACE YOUR ORDER.

THE LOUDSPEAKER COMES ON WHEN YOUR ORDER'S READY.

YOU CARRY IT ON A TRAY BACK.

YOU EAT IT.

IT'S LOBSTER, LOBSTER, AND LOBSTER.

I JUST PUT THE MEAT IN THE BUN.

I PUT THE CLAWS ON EITHER SIDE.

Holly: RED USES A WHOLE -- I MEAN, THIS IS MORE THAN A WHOLE LOBSTER.

YOU GOT THE WHOLE TAIL.

Al: AND FILL THE MIDDLE AND PUT THE TAILS ON THE TOP.

Holly: THERE'S NO GUNK ON IT.

YOU GET TO ADD YOUR OWN GUNK -- EITHER MAYONNAISE OR THE BUTTER.

Al: OR BOTH IF THEY WANT.

BUT THERE'S NOTHING ON THE MEAT.

Holly: THIS HAS TO BE ON A MAINE-STYLE, A NEW ENGLAND-STYLE HOT DOG BUN.

Al: YOU JUST GRILL 'EM ON THE GRILL, BOTH SIDES.

Holly: SO WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU EAT A LOBSTER ROLL IS THAT YOU'VE GOT THE WARM OUTSIDE, AND THEN YOU'VE GOT THE NICE COLD LOBSTER AND THE SWEET LOBSTER ON THE INSIDE.

WHY DO ALL THE WORK OF CRACKING OPEN A LOBSTER AND ALL THAT HARD WORK WHEN ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS HAVE THEM DO THE WORK FOR YOU AND JUST KIND OF EAT AWAY?

YOU CAN GET IT DOWN MUCH FASTER, IT'S MUCH MORE EFFICIENT, AND IT'S EASIER TO EAT A SECOND ONE.

OH, IT'S GOOD.

HEY, I COULD -- I COULD RETIRE IF I WANT.

I'M NOT GONNA RETIRE.

WHAT THE HELL.

I'M TOO YOUNG, HUH?

[ LAUGHS ] Sebak: YOU KNOW, A GOOD SANDWICH DOESN'T NEED A FANCY BUILDING.

IN FACT, A NONDESCRIPT NEIGHBORHOOD BAR IS OFTEN THE IDEAL PLACE FOR A CLASSIC CRUSTY SANDWICH.

Woman: IT'S DOMILISE'S PO-BOYS.

WE'RE UPTOWN NEW ORLEANS.

WE'RE ON THE CORNER OF BELLECASTLE AND ANNUNCIATION STREET.

Sebak: THE PLACE IS RUN BY PATTY DOMILISE AND HER MOTHER-IN-LAW, DOT.

WE'RE KNOWN FOR OUR SANDWICHES.

THAT'S WHAT WE'RE KNOWN FOR.

AND THE KINDNESSES OF THE PEOPLE WHO WORK HERE.

Patty: PO-BOYS.

THAT'S ALL WE HAVE IS PO-BOYS.

IT'S A NEW ORLEANS TRADITION.

PEOPLE LOVE PO-BOYS.

IT USED TO BE THE MEAL FOR THE LABORERS, AND THEY WOULD COME IN.

AND THEY WERE GIVEN, FOR A NICKEL, A PO-BOY, SO THE POOR BOYS GOT THEIR SANDWICHES.

Patty: THE MOST POPULAR ARE ROAST BEEF, SHRIMP, OYSTER.

Dot: WE COOK OUR OWN ROAST BEEF.

WE MAKE OUR OWN GRAVY.

SEAFOOD, WE FRY, BUT NOT AHEAD OF TIME.

JUST WHEN YOU'RE READY FOR IT, YOU KNOW?

Man: WHEN YOU GROW UP IN NEW ORLEANS, YOU KNOW ABOUT THIS PLACE.

IT'S A WAY OF LIFE.

EVERYONE IN TOWN KNOWS OF DOMILISE'S -- EVERYBODY.

Man: IT'S A LOCAL LANDMARK.

Patty: PLENTY PEOPLE CAN'T FIND IT.

I MEAN, PEOPLE COME IN ALL THE TIME, SAY THEY GOT LOST.

THIS IS THE PLACE TO COME ON A FRIDAY, CASH YOUR CHECK, AND DRINK A COUPLE BEERS, AND GET A SANDWICH.

I'VE BEEN COMING HERE SINCE I WAS A LITTLE GIRL WITH MY DAD.

I MEAN, YEARS AGO.

Man: 30 YEARS BEEN COMING HERE.

Dot: WHAT I WAS TOLD WAS MY FATHER-IN-LAW BOUGHT THIS, LIKE 72, 73 YEARS AGO.

IT'S BEEN A BUSINESS PLACE ON THIS CORNER ALL THOSE YEARS, OPEN TO THE PUBLIC.

THE DECOR AND EVERYTHING HASN'T CHANGED IN 30 YEARS.

I MEAN, WHERE YOU GONNA FIND THAT?

I TRIED TO GET A FRIED SHRIMP OTHER PLACES.

IT'S JUST NOT THE SAME.

THERE'S SOMETHING ABOUT IT.

EVERYTHING IS DIFFERENT.

THAT'S WHAT MAKES IT SO GOOD.

SANDWICHES ARE READY.

OKAY.

THANK YOU.

WAIT.

HE'S IN THE MIDDLE OF FILMING.

I DON'T CARE.

I HAD A HOT SAUSAGE, HOT SAUSAGE CHILI.

TRYING TO KILL MY STOMACH.

IT'S JUST A TRADITION.

IT'S NEW ORLEANS.

ALLEN, CAN I HAVE SOME MONEY, PLEASE?

THAT'S A TRADITION, TOO.

Dot: EVERYBODY'S TASTE IS NOT THE SAME.

SEE?

I'M NOT A SHRIMP PERSON.

I'M AN OYSTER PERSON.

SO SOMEBODY SAYS, "WHICH IS THE BEST, THE SHRIMP OR THE OYSTER?"

I JUST TELL THEM, "IT'S YOUR TASTE."

BECAUSE I'M NOT A SHRIMP PERSON, BUT I EAT 'EM AND I LIKE 'EM.

HMM.

I LIKE THE ROAST BEEF.

I LOVE THE...ROAST BEEF.

DRESSED.

Patty: MOST PEOPLE KNOW WHAT THE PO-BOY IS.

THEY JUST DON'T KNOW WHAT "DRESSED" IS.

IF YOU ASK, "DO YOU WANT IT DRESSED?"

THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS.

ALL THE WAY.

DRESSED.

THAT'S JUST EVERYTHING.

YEAH.

DRESSED.

Dot: IF YOU COME UP AND SAY "DRESSED," WE JUST PUT MAYONNAISE, LETTUCE, PICKLES, KETCHUP, AND HOT SAUCE.

BARQ'S.

THIS IS WHAT YOU DRINK WITH IT.

A BARQ'S ROOT BEER, COLD BARQ'S.

YEP.

Man: BARQ'S IN A BOTTLE.

YOU HAVE TO HAVE IT IN A BOTTLE.

UNLESS YOU HAVE A DRAFT.

THESE SAME LADIES HAVE BEEN HERE EVER SINCE I CAME HERE, WHICH I THINK IS KIND OF UNUSUAL IN THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS.

Patty: I DON'T KNOW HOW LONG MISS DOT'S BEEN HERE.

50-SOMETHING YEARS, I GUESS.

Man: SHE'S LIKE MY MOM.

COMING HERE 30 YEARS, MY FAMILY KNEW HER.

I MEAN, SHE'S LIKE MY SECOND MOM.

Dot: I LOVE THE PEOPLE.

I'VE MADE SO MANY FRIENDS THAT MOST OF THEM ARE LIKE MY FAMILY.

I THINK THESE ARE THE BEST IN NEW ORLEANS.

WE TRY TO MAKE IT THE BEST.

WE TRY.

IT'S THE ATMOSPHERE.

THE FOOD'S LAGNIAPPE.

I KNOW I MOVED AWAY FOR ABOUT SIX OR EIGHT MONTHS, AND IT WAS LIKE WE WERE GOING CRAZY WITHOUT PO-BOYS AND ROOT BEER.

ROOT BEER AND A PO-BOY.

THAT'S NEW ORLEANS.

Sebak: WELL, THAT'S NEW ORLEANS UNLESS YOU'RE ON DECATUR STREET IN THE FRENCH QUARTER, WHERE YOU'LL FIND THE CENTRAL GROCERY, HOME OF THE MUFFULETTA.

Woman: FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THIS PLACE, YOU'D NEVER THINK THERE'S A GOOD SANDWICH INSIDE.

Man: WELL, IT'S THE OLD-WORLD UNIQUENESS.

Man: ANYTIME I'M DOWN HERE, THIS IS WHERE WE ALWAYS COME TO GET ONE OF THESE.

Man: I'M IN THE QUARTER EVERY DAY, BUT I PICK UP THESE, MAN, EVERY TUESDAY AND SATURDAY.

I GREW UP IN SLIDELL, PARENTS BROUGHT ME DOWN, SAID THIS IS THE GREATEST SANDWICH THERE EVER WAS.

USED TO GET MORE THAN THAT WHEN I WORKED ON THE RIVERFRONT BEFORE I RETIRED.

WENT TO COLLEGE AT LSU, AND WE'D COME DOWN ABOUT EVERY WEEKEND AND PARTY HERE IN NEW ORLEANS, AND THIS IS ALWAYS STAPLE FOOD.

USED TO PICK 'EM UP FOR THE FELLAS, YOU KNOW?

THEY'D KNOCK A WHOLE ONE OUT IN NOTHING FLAT, MAN.

I THINK A LOT OF PEOPLE COME HERE BECAUSE WE'RE SO WELL-KNOWN, SUCH AN OLD BUSINESS.

WE GOT A GREAT PRODUCT, AND THE QUALITY IS SECOND TO NONE.

Sebak: THAT'S LARRY TUSA.

HE AND HIS BROTHER FRANK ARE JUST TWO OF THE PARTNERS HERE WHERE THE MUFFULETTA BEGAN.

THE SANDWICH HAS GROWN IN THE LAST FOUR DECADES TREMENDOUSLY.

IT'S GAINED MORE POPULARITY, AND WE JUST MAINTAIN THE SAME QUALITY AS WE USED YEARS AGO.

Larry: THE GROCERY'S A VERY OLD GROCERY, LIKE MANY, MANY BUSINESSES HERE IN THE QUARTER.

IT WAS STARTED BY SALVATORE LUPO.

IT GREW FROM SOMETHING SMALL TO WHERE WE ARE TODAY.

WHEN YOU COME DOWN HERE, YOU GET INSPIRED TO EAT THIS 'CAUSE THIS IS LOCAL, AND THIS IS THE ONLY PLACE YOU CAN GET THIS, SO WHEN IN ROME... Man: I READ ABOUT IT IN A TOUR BOOK SOMEWHERE.

I KNEW IT WAS THE ORIGINAL MUFFULETTA, SO... Larry: IT'S PRONOUNCED MANY DIFFERENT WAYS, BUT I THINK THE ORIGINAL WAY AND THE REAL WAY OF SAYING IT, WITH A LITTLE SICILIAN DIALECT, WOULD BE "MUFFU-LET-TA."

Sebak: WELL, VIOLA JONES KNOWS ALL ABOUT MAKING MUFFULETTAS.

Viola: THIS IS SPECIAL BREAD.

IT'S NOT A BREAD YOU CAN WALK IN THE STORE AND GET.

IT HAS TO BE MADE.

Larry: THE NAME CAME FROM THE BREAD.

Frank: IT'S A ROUND LOAF WITH SESAME SEEDS, MADE IN AN ITALIAN-STYLE BREAD.

BASICALLY, YOU CAN SEE THE INGREDIENTS.

WE GOT OLIVE SALAD RIGHT ON THE TOP HERE, AND WE GOT THREE MEATS, AND THIS ONE HAS TWO CHEESES.

WE HAVE THE MORTADELLA, WE HAVE THE DANISH HAM, IMPORTED SWISS CHEESE... Larry: AND THE OLIVE SALAD WITH THE 40 INGREDIENTS THAT WE PUT IN, INCLUDING SPICES.

I MEAN, MOST OF THAT STUFF'S IMPORTED, TOO.

A LOT OF STORES MAKE 'EM, BUT I DON'T THINK THEY CAN BEAT CENTRAL.

Man: THE KEY IS IT'S A COLD-CUT SANDWICH.

A LOT OF PLACES MAKE SOMETHING SIMILAR, BUT THEY TOAST IT.

IT CAN'T BE HEATED.

IT'S GOT TO BE COLD.

Larry: AND IT'S A SANDWICH THAT HOLDS UP.

IT GETS MUCH BETTER AS THE DAY GOES ON.

WE'LL PUT IT IN THE COOLER.

WE'RE GONNA TAKE IT BACK.

WE HAD A COUPLE OF PARTIES IN HOUSTON.

WE HAD YOU PUT THEM ON DRY ICE AND SHIP THEM TO US.

WELL, WE STILL DO.

ACTUALLY, THE SANDWICH IS BETTER AS IT SETS UP 'CAUSE THE SALAD MARINATES WITH THE BREAD AND THE MEATS.

YOU CAN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY AND IT'S EVEN BETTER.

Sebak: WELL, SOME SANDWICHES DO GET BETTER WITH AGE, BUT BIG, FRESH, JUICY ONES ARE STILL WORTH SEARCHING FOR.

JUST EAST OF DOWNTOWN HOUSTON, TEXAS, IN WHAT'S CALLED THE THIRD WARD, YOU WILL WANT TO SEARCH FOR THELMA'S BARBQUE, RUN BY A FORMER TRUCK DRIVER NAMED THELMA WILLIAMS IN A SMALL, HOMEY, LITTLE BUILDING.

Thelma: THIS THE WAY I WANT IT.

I DON'T WANT A BIG, OLD, HUGE PLACE.

I WANT A LITTLE, DOWN-TO-EARTH PLACE WHERE PEOPLE CAN FEEL AT HOME WHEN YOU COME IN HERE.

HEY, BROTHER, IF YOUR SHOES HURT, YOU TAKE YOUR SHOES OFF.

RELAX!

SOME OF MY COWORKERS BROUGHT ME HERE FOR LUNCH ONE DAY.

I WAS ACTUALLY OUT LOOKING FOR WITNESSES WITH ANOTHER -- WITH A POLICE OFFICER -- WE GOT LOST AND STUMBLED IN HERE FOR LUNCH.

WE LIKE TO COME TO THELMA'S FOR OUR LUNCH.

I BEEN COMING BACK EVER SINCE.

I GOT HOOKED ON THAT FIRST DAY.

IT'S A GREAT PLACE.

YOU GOT TO HAVE A SANDWICH HERE.

I HAVE SLICED BEEF SANDWICH, RIB SANDWICH, LINK SANDWICH, HAM SANDWICH.

Sebak: LOTS OF BIG SANDWICHES, INCLUDING CATFISH, BUT SHE USES THE SMOKE FROM HICKORY AND PECAN WOOD TO MAKE THE MEATS.

Thelma: THIS IS DOWN-TO-EARTH LOUISIANA BARBECUE.

MY CHICKEN, RIBS, AND SAUSAGE IS COOKED IN THE MORNING.

ONLY THE BRISKET IS TO COOK ALL NIGHT FOR 18 HOURS.

EVERY TIME I COME IN, I GET SOMETHING DIFFERENT.

I SIMPLY ADORE THE RIB SANDWICHES.

TODAY I GOT THE LINK SANDWICH.

THEIR CHOPPED BEEF IS DIFFERENT THAN ANY OTHER CHOPPED BEEF.

THIS IS ACTUALLY BRISKET THAT'S CHOPPED UP FOR THE SANDWICH.

CHOPPED BEEF AND COLESLAW.

YEAH.

ACTUALLY, IT'S BETTER MEAT, YOU KNOW, BUT IT MAKES IT VERY DIFFICULT TO EAT AS A SANDWICH.

BUT YOU CAN'T REALLY PICK UP THELMA'S SANDWICHES.

YOU HAVE TO USE A FORK AND A KNIFE, BECAUSE THEY'RE DRIPPING WITH BARBECUE AND... THE BREAD IS TO SOP THAT SAUCE.

THAT'S ALL THE BREAD IS GOOD FOR -- SAUCE-SOPPIN'.

BUT THAT'S OKAY.

THAT'S PRETTY STANDARD AT THELMA'S.

YOU HAVE TWO SIDES OF THE BRISKET.

YOU HAVE THE TOP SIDE, CALLED THE LOOSE SIDE.

THAT'S A LITTLE FATTY, A LITTLE MOISTER.

THEN YOU HAVE BOTTOM SIDE.

IT'S THE LEAN SIDE.

YOU WANT THE LOOSE SIDE.

THIS IS A WONDERFUL HOUSTON SANDWICH.

I WOULD RECOMMEND IT TO ANYONE.

Thelma: YOU'LL GET FULL ON A SANDWICH.

IF YOU'RE NOT, THE SECOND ONE IS ON ME.

I'M FROM NEW ORLEANS, SO I KNOW A LITTLE BIT ABOUT GOOD SANDWICHES.

AND I'M GONNA TELL YOU, THIS IS NOT TYPICAL OF HOUSTON.

THIS IS MORE LIKE NEW ORLEANS KIND OF FOOD.

Sebak: THELMA IS FROM THE SMALL TOWN OF VILLE PLATTE, LOUISIANA.

Thelma: I LEARNED TO COOK BY WATCHING PEOPLE, PAYING ATTENTION, STAYING IN THE KITCHEN, STAYING ON MY MOTHER'S DRESS TAIL, STAYING ON MY DADDY'S FOOT.

THEY'D PUSH ME BACK.

I'D COME BACK.

THEY'D PUSH ME BACK.

I'D COME BACK.

I NEED YOU TO PUT ME SOME POTATO SALAD AND COLESLAW ON THERE, OKAY?

Sebak: NOW HER GRANDDAUGHTER, KEIRRA PIERRE, IS PAYING ATTENTION.

Thelma: KEIRRA FOLLOWS ME JUST LIKE I WAS WITH MY PARENTS.

THAT'S WHY I CAN'T PUSH HER TOO MUCH OUT OF THE WAY.

I DON'T HAVE NOTHING TO DO, SO I JUST GO UP IN THE KITCHEN WITH MY GRANDMA.

SHE WEARS A HAIRNET, SHE COMES IN THE KITCHEN, SHE WATCHES ME.

THEN SOMETIMES I LET HER STIR STUFF, YOU KNOW.

SHE STARTED WITH ME.

THE FIRST DAY I OPENED UP, THIS GIRL WAS WITH ME.

I DON'T GO TO A LOT OF DIFFERENT BARBECUE PLACES, BUT WHEN IT'S AS GOOD AS THIS, I'LL COME AND GET A SANDWICH.

I ALWAYS DID DREAM OF A BARBECUE PLACE.

THE BEEF IS REAL GOOD, AND THE BEER IS ALWAYS REAL COLD, AND IT'S A PERFECT PLACE FOR ME.

Thelma: IF YOU'RE NOT DOING WHAT YOU WANT TO DO, YOU'RE NOT SATISFIED -- YOU KNOW, YOU GOT, AND EVERY TIME I DRIVE TRUCK -- I DROVE TRUCK FOR WHAT?

'91 TO '99 AND IT -- MY MIND -- IN MY MIND WAS STILL SAYING, "YOU GONNA HAVE YOUR OWN PLACE."

SO MY BIG DREAM COME TRUE.

Sebak: SOMETIMES DREAMS AND HOPES CAN BE PART OF WHAT'S PUT INTO A SANDWICH.

IF YOU GO JUST WEST OF BOSTON TO WATERTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS, THERE'S AN INTERESTING LITTLE RESTAURANT NAMED SEPAL.

IT'S RUN BY A PALESTINIAN IMMIGRANT NAMED WALID MASSOUD.

Walid: ACTUALLY, I CAME IN THE '70s.

I DID MY SCHOOLING HERE, AND I FELL IN LOVE WITH BOSTON.

I REALLY DIDN'T WANT A RESTAURANT.

I WANT TO HAVE A FALAFEL SANDWICH, AND THAT'S WHERE I STARTED.

WHEN I COMPLAINED TO MY MOTHER, "I CAN'T FIND A GOOD FALAFEL SANDWICH," THAT'S WHEN SHE HANDED ME THE RECIPE THAT WAS WRITTEN IN 1929 IN ARABIC IN JERUSALEM.

AND SHE SAID, "DO THIS ONE SOMEDAY."

Sebak: WALID HAS SINCE EARNED THE RESPECT AND LOVE OF LOTS OF CUSTOMERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

Man: YOU HAVE FALAFEL IN LEBANON AND SYRIA AND PALESTINE AND ISRAEL AND EGYPT.

IT'S A REGIONAL FAVORITE.

Walid: AS FAR AS I KNOW, IT'S A PALESTINIAN INVENTION.

I CALL IT VEGETARIAN MEATBALL FOR PEOPLE WHO DON'T KNOW ABOUT IT.

BUT IT'S CHICK-PEAS THAT ARE GROUND UP WITH A LOT OF WONDERFUL SPICES.

Walid: WE GRIND THEM UP, AND WE MAKE A PATTY OUT OF THAT.

AND THIS PATTY, YOU CAN HAVE IT EITHER FRIED OR BAKED.

Man: IN HEBREW IN ISRAEL, YOU'RE GONNA SAY "FALAFEL IM PITA," WHICH MEANS "FALAFEL WITH PITA."

GRAB A NICE, CRISPY PIECE OF ROMAINE LETTUCE.

AND TWO OF THE MOST FAMOUS FALAFELS.

NOW, THE WAY IT'S MADE HERE, IT'S MADE DIFFERENTLY.

IT'S NOT THE SAME RECIPE.

I SHOULD WARN YOU.

A LINE OF CHICK-PEA DIP, SOME HUMMUS... Man: THE FALAFEL HERE IS EQUAL OR BETTER THAN ANYTHING I HAD IN THE MIDDLE EAST.

SOME OF THESE DELICIOUS, COLORFUL, AND TASTY PICKLED TURNIPS.

I'VE HAD FALAFEL IN THREE DIFFERENT RESTAURANTS AROUND THIS AREA, AND THIS IS, BY FAR, THE BEST.

SHEPHERD'S SALAD.

WHERE I LIVE, THERE ARE FOUR MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD RESTAURANTS.

AND TAHINI SAUCE.

AND I DON'T FREQUENT THEM.

I DON'T GO THERE.

THEY ALL MAKE FALAFEL.

I COME HERE.

Walid: AND HERE WE GO.

YOU'RE NOT GONNA SEE IT ANYMORE.

THAT'S IT.

YOU CAN ONLY EAT IT.

VOILà.

Man: AND HE HAS THIS THING ABOUT BRINGING THE JEWS AND THE ARABS TOGETHER THROUGH FOOD.

Walid: WHEN I FIRST OPENED UP, THERE WAS AN ISRAELI CUSTOMER OF MINE.

YOU KNOW, I ONLY COULD SPEAK WITH HIM A MINUTE OR TWO.

Man: IF PEOPLE CAN SIT DOWN AND HAVE A MEAL AND BREAK BREAD WITH EACH OTHER, THAT'S AT LEAST A BEGINNING.

Walid: AND THAT'S WHERE IT STARTED.

AND IF I THINK ABOUT IT, IT IS THE FALAFELS.

AND HE LIKED MY FALAFELS, AND THEN HE GOT TO LIKE ME.

IT WORKS.

I MET -- WE HAD A DINNER HERE A MONTH AGO.

HE HAD A VERY DIVERSE GROUP OF PEOPLE.

Walid: I'M REALLY IMPRESSED WITH MY OWN TRANSFORMATION AND TRANSCENDENCE, YOU KNOW.

Man: WE ATE AND TALKED AND... Walid: BEING WITH JEWS AND BEING WITH ISRAELIS, AND BEING ABLE TO TALK AND BE PART OF A DIALOGUE GROUP, YOU KNOW.

THE BEST WAY TO GET TO SOMEONE'S HEART IS THROUGH THEIR STOMACH.

Walid: THAT'S WHAT KEEPS ME GOING, ACTUALLY -- MY CUSTOMERS.

YOU SEE, IT'S ALSO A PERSONAL THING.

IT HAS TO COME OUT FROM THE SOUL.

IF YOU DON'T PUT YOUR SOUL IN THE FOOD, IT'S NOT GONNA COME OUT GOOD.

Sebak: AND GOOD FOOD IS WHAT THIS IS ALL ABOUT.

ON THE LOWER EAST SIDE OF MANHATTAN ON HOUSTON STREET, KATZ'S DELI SERVES SOME SANDWICHES THAT MAY SATISFY YOUR SOUL.

Man: HOW YOU DOING TODAY?

PASTRAMI ON CLUB.

AND THE MEN WHO MAKE THE SANDWICHES USUALLY GIVE SAMPLES.

MMM.

GOOD.

DELICIOUS.

IT'S GOOD.

YOU DON'T GO HOME HUNGRY HERE, THAT'S FOR SURE.

VERY GOOD.

WHENEVER I COME INTO NEW YORK, I HAVE TO COME HERE.

FIRST TIME IN NEW YORK CITY.

WALKED, LIKE, 3 MILES TO GET TO THIS PLACE.

Man: THIS IS THE REAL THING.

THERE ARE REAL PEOPLE HERE EATING REAL FOOD.

THERE'S NOTHING FANCY ABOUT IT, AND IT'S GOOD QUALITY.

THE BEST PASTRAMI IN THE WORLD.

I'VE BEEN COMING HERE FOR YEARS, FOR YEARS.

I THINK SINCE THEY OPENED UP.

KATZ'S DELI HAS BEEN HERE SINCE 1888.

Sebak: AND SINCE THE 1980s, ALAN DELL HAS BEEN ONE OF THE OWNERS HERE.

THANKS FOR COMING, GUYS.

APPRECIATE IT.

Alan: WE'RE THE ONLY PLACE LEFT THAT STILL MAKES IT THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY.

WE MAKE OUR OWN HOT DOGS, OUR OWN SALAMIS, PASTRAMI, CORNED BEEF, EVEN THE MUSTARD AND PICKLES.

PASTRAMI RIGHT NOW.

I LIKE THE CORNED BEEF ALSO.

SOMETIME I LIKE THE BRISKET.

A TURKEY AND CHOPPED LIVER ON RYE.

HOT DOG, MATZO BALL SOUP, KNISH... BRISKET SANDWICH.

I HAD -- WE HAD A LOT OF FOOD.

WE ALL ATE PASTRAMI.

Man: MY MOTHER INTRODUCED ME TO IT, AND I'VE LOVED PASTRAMI EVER SINCE.

Alan: ONE COW ONLY HAS ABOUT 6 POUNDS WORTH OF PASTRAMI.

FOUR PASTRAMIS WITH MUSTARD ON RYE.

I'VE NEVER TASTED PASTRAMI LIKE THIS ANYWHERE.

THE TYPICAL WAY TO REALLY EAT IT IS TO HAVE IT WITH MUSTARD AND THAT'S IT.

I GOT A BRISKET.

I GOT A PASTRAMI.

Alan: BY THE WAY, IT'S ONE OF THE ONLY PLACES LEFT THAT WE STILL CUT THE SANDWICHES BY HAND.

FIRST OF ALL, THEY'RE THE BEST COUNTERMEN AROUND.

AND THEY KNOW HOW TO CUT THE MEAT.

Alan: YOU COME UP AND TALK TO THE COUNTERMEN.

YOU WANT IT THICK, YOU WANT IT THIN, YOU WANT THIS CUT.

I HAVE A SO-CALLED LEAN PASTRAMI SANDWICH.

Alan: WHEN YOU GO TO THE COUNTER, "PASTRAMI ON RYE, JUICY" IS THE QUESTION.

LEAN AND EXTRA-LEAN -- I KNOW PEOPLE ARE HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, AND THEY WANT A LITTLE LESS FAT.

YOU SHOULDN'T BE HERE IF YOU'RE NOT GONNA EAT THAT.

JUICY IS THE KEY.

I'M HAVING PEOPLE COME FROM WASHINGTON, AND THEY WANT TO COME HERE WITH THE PASTRAMI.

THANK YOU.

YOU NEED YOUR TICKET BACK.

Alan: YOU COME INTO KATZ'S.

THIS IS ANOTHER OLD SYSTEM.

YOU GET A TICKET.

Man: YOU KNOW, I HAND OUT TICKETS TO THE PEOPLE COMING IN BECAUSE YOU CANNOT BUY WITHOUT IT.

AND YOU TAKE THAT TICKET, WALK UP TO THE COUNTER, AND TELL THE GUY WHAT YOU WANT.

Man: AND THE WAITERS SCRIBBLE ON IT.

WHEN YOU ORDER, THEY PUT YOUR PRICE ON IT.

AND WHEN YOU'RE LEAVING, YOU PAY.

Man: IN THE CHAOS OF THIS PLACE, IT ACTUALLY IS THE ONLY WAY POSSIBLE TO KEEP TRACK OF WHAT EVERY CUSTOMER HAS HAD TO EAT.

IT HASN'T BEEN HERE FOR 100 YEARS DOING SOMETHING WRONG.

WHEN I GOT OUT OF THE SERVICE IN '44, I STARTED COMING HERE.

1945.

I'VE BEEN DEALING WITH KATZ FOR A WHOLE LOT OF YEARS, OVER 30.

WHEN I WAS 17 YEARS OLD, I TOOK A GIRL HERE ON A DATE.

SHE REFUSED TO COME IN.

WE NEVER WENT OUT AGAIN.

Alan: WHEN I WAS A LITTLE BOY, IN MANHATTAN ALONE, THERE WERE OVER 500 DELIS.

NOW THERE'S ONLY ABOUT A DOZEN.

I'VE BEEN ALL OVER, AND THIS IS UNIQUE.

IT'S DIFFERENT, YOU KNOW.

YOU WALK INTO KATZ'S, IT BRINGS YOU BACK IN TIME.

MY GRANDFATHER CAME HERE IN THE '20s AND '30s TO EAT HERE.

THIS WAS FOUNDED BY JEWISH PEOPLE AND ORIGINALLY SERVED JEWS ON THE LOWER EAST SIDE.

IF YOU LOOK AROUND HERE, YOU'LL SEE PEOPLE FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD.

Alan: IT'S HARD TO BE ANGRY WHEN YOU'RE EATING SOMETHING YOU REALLY ENJOY.

Man: I AM ASKED ALMOST ON A DAILY BASIS FROM TOURISTS, "WHERE DO WE EAT IN NEW YORK?

WHAT'S THE REAL PLACE THAT THE NEW YORKERS GO AND EAT?"

AND KATZ IS THAT PLACE.

THE PRICE CHANGED, BUT THE SANDWICH DIDN'T.

ALL RIGHT.

I'M GONNA ENJOY MY LUNCH NOW.

Sebak: YOU KNOW, WE MAY TAKE SANDWICHES TOO MUCH FOR GRANTED.

Man: SANDWICHES ARE JUST DELICIOUS.

DEPENDS ON WHERE YOU GET THEM, OF COURSE.

Sebak: THEY CAN BE UNIVERSALLY APPRECIATED, YET WONDERFULLY LOCAL.

NOTHING EVER TASTES AS GOOD AS WHERE YOU'RE AT.

THEY CAN BE DELICIOUS REASONS TO TASTE DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE COUNTRY.

Man: WHERE I GO, I LOOK FOR SANDWICHES TO EAT -- ONLY 'CAUSE I LIKE SANDWICHES.

Woman: EVERYTHING THAT YOU WANT IS RIGHT THERE UNDER THE BREAD OR BETWEEN THE BREAD.

Sebak: THEY CAN BE LINKS TO OUR CHILDHOOD, OUR PARENTS AND GRANDPARENTS, SALTY REMINDERS OF OUR DIVERSE ORIGINS.

WE'VE BEEN EATING SANDWICHES HOW MANY YEARS TOGETHER?

IT'S WORKED.

Woman: PEOPLE FROM CHICAGO, NEW YORK, CALIFORNIA -- ALL OVER THEY COME FROM, ALL OVER THE WORLD.

SO MAYBE THE KEY TO SOLVING ALL PROBLEMS IN THE WORLD, RACIAL AND EVERYTHING ELSE, IS TO EAT A SANDWICH.

Sebak: SANDWICHES ARE JUST A GREAT, UNUSUAL AMERICAN FOOD.

Pat: BUT THAT'S THE GOOD PART OF IT, SEE, THAT WE CONTINUE TO DO THINGS THAT SORT OF MAKE IT AN IMPORTANT PART OF AMERICAN CULTURE, AN IMPORTANT PART OF EATING IN AMERICA, AN IMPORTANT PART OF OUR DAILY BREAD, IF YOU WILL.

TO ORDER A DVD OF "SANDWICHES THAT YOU WILL LIKE," CALL WQED AT... DID YOU COME UP WITH THIS IDEA?

YOU'RE THE MAN!

OH, I'D WATCH A SHOW ON SANDWICHES.

I'D GIVE MONEY.

THE REASON I LIKE SANDWICHES IS THERE AIN'T NO DIRTY DISHES TO WASH AFTERWARDS.

SO, WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO?

JUST BITE INTO IT AND SAY "MMM"?

OH, THAT WAS ON FILM!

Man: YOU NEED AN ASSISTANT.

YOU LOOK LIKE YOU EAT A LITTLE MEAT, YOU KNOW.

SOME PRETTY ODD PEOPLE THAT COME UP TO THE WINDOW SOMETIMES.

WE HAVE ALIENS COME HERE EVERY DAY.

IT'S...WAIT A MINUTE.

THAT'S WHY I COME HERE.

THEY DON'T CHARGE ME.

I'D LIKE TO GO WITH YOU, YOU KNOW, IF YOU'RE GONNA GO... I'M YOUR MAN.

...DO DOCUMENTARIES ABOUT FOOD.

Man: NOW I HAVE TO TURN THE HEAT UP, WHICH IS GOING TO STEAM UP HIS CAMERA.

Audrey: CUT IN HALF, CUT IN THREE-QUARTERS, WHATEVER YOU WOULD LIKE.

I'LL TAKE A SANDWICH FOR YOU IN THE LINE OF FIRE.

HOW ABOUT THAT?

YOU TAKE A BITE OF IT... I THINK MY TIME IS UP.

YOU COULD...YOU COULD DO HER.

IS THAT A WRAP?

THEORETICALLY, I'D SAY IT'S A PRETTY GOOD IDEA.

TAKE OUR MONEY, GIVE US OUR TOTE BAGS, AND GO MAKE A TV SHOW ABOUT SANDWICHES.

"SANDWICHES THAT YOU WILL LIKE" WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY CONTRIBUTIONS TO YOUR PBS STATION FROM VIEWERS LIKE YOU.

-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com THIS IS PBS.