

Santa Fe, New Mexico
11/28/2020 | 26m 44sVideo has Closed Captions
Santa Fe's culinary scene is full of mixed influences, flavors and ingredients.
Host Curtis Stone is joined by Chef Martín Rios and Chef Leslie Chavez in New Mexico. They visit The Rooted Leaf and Celestial Bee, a farm that produces exquisite bee honey and fresh, highly cared-for produce. They also visit a local chile farmer to see how Chimayo chile is dried and ground. Chef Rios makes rosemary-roasted turnips and Chef Chavez makes a sopaipilla with locally sourced honey.
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Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Santa Fe, New Mexico
11/28/2020 | 26m 44sVideo has Closed Captions
Host Curtis Stone is joined by Chef Martín Rios and Chef Leslie Chavez in New Mexico. They visit The Rooted Leaf and Celestial Bee, a farm that produces exquisite bee honey and fresh, highly cared-for produce. They also visit a local chile farmer to see how Chimayo chile is dried and ground. Chef Rios makes rosemary-roasted turnips and Chef Chavez makes a sopaipilla with locally sourced honey.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship♪ ♪ >> From the editors of Relish.com, we bring you Moveable Feast.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> STONE: We're in the Land of Enchantment-- Santa Fe, New Mexico.
>> This is not Mexican food.
This is New Mexican food.
>> STONE: Our cucineros today are chef Leslie Chavez... >> When you're from New Mexico and you smell that chili roasting, it smells like home.
>> STONE: ...and Martín Rios.
>> Duck fat helps tamales from getting too heavy.
>> STONE: I like the way you roll.
You're saying that the duck fat is going to keep it nice and light.
>> Right.
(laughs) >> STONE: We're sourcing microgreens and honey from a local farm overseen by a benevolent queen.
>> Oh, and look here.
This is a baby bee being born.
>> STONE: That's incredible.
>> That's amazing.
>> STONE: Look at her!
And take a side trip to the town of Chimayo, where chili isn't just a spice.
>> It's almost addictive.
>> STONE: And it is potent.
(coughing) Dude!
(coughing) I didn't know that you were going to kill half the crew.
(laughter) (singing) And together, we're throwing a homecoming reunion of sorts.
Where cultures collide and old friends and kids of old friends and families get together in one big, beautiful, blue corn, cheese-filled, chili-drenched enchilada.
>> Yummy, yummy, yummy, yummy.
>> Coming up next on Moveable Feast with Relish.
>> Major funding provided by: >> Ladies and gentlemen, your attention, please.
(gecko clears throat, feedback squeals) >> GEICO would like to take a moment to say thank you to our military service members at home and abroad for all their hard work and sacrifice.
We all sleep easier knowing you're out there keeping us safe.
And on a personal note... (jet engines roar, gecko's speech muffled) (crowd cheering) (exhales) Just needed to get that off my chest.
Thank you.
>> GEICO-- proudly supporting the military for over 75 years.
>> We can't just take from nature, so we collaborate.
Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way.
♪ ♪ >> Ocean Spray is a proud sponsor of Moveable Feast.
>> At Pure Leaf, the most important ingredient in making tea is saying no.
We're committed to saying no to artificial flavors and sweeteners in our brewed iced teas.
♪ ♪ >> I am Errico Auricchio, the founder of BelGioioso Cheese.
I came in 1979 from Italy with my family and the memory of Italian cheese.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> We are in northern New Mexico, just ten minutes north of Santa Fe.
This is the third season we have been on site.
So the first year we were just small, up in the upper herb garden that's now the perennial herb garden.
And over the last two years, we've expanded past the beehives.
>> This farm is my source of specialty herbs.
She started bringing me little samples here and there, and I just fell in love with them.
>> STONE: Chef Martín Rios and his wife, Jennifer, are co-owners of their award-winning restaurant, Martín.
A native of Guadalajara, Mexico, Martín grew up in Santa Fe, starting as a dishwasher at the age of 17.
Like many a good chef, Martín learned from his grandmother at her restaurant in Guadalajara.
She'd be quite proud, as her grandson was a semifinalist for the 2011 James Beard Award, Best Chef Southwest.
>> We don't just grow turnips.
We say, "What happens if we let a turnip grow to seed?"
"What happens if we use the flowers of turnips in a dish?"
"What happens if we find just the right day "to pick the seed pod of the turnip "where it pops in your mouth and you get the spice of the turnip?"
>> STONE: You're a chef's dream, by the way.
You know, you grow all this super-interesting stuff.
>> So the cilantro right now is flowering, so again, multiple ways of using one plant that starts to express itself in a different direction.
>> STONE: Oh, my goodness, I want to see that.
Come on, show us.
>> Yeah.
>> STONE: So that's cilantro?
>> So this is cilantro, and down below, this is really the leaf that we're used to when we think of cilantro.
>> STONE: Right.
>> But when it bolts-- it's called bolting when the plant goes to seed.
First, it'll start with these beautiful white flowers, which are incredibly edible.
>> STONE: Looks like Queen Anne's Lace.
>> It does look like Queen Anne's Lace, exactly.
And from there, after it's pollinated, and before it becomes coriander, it'll make these capers here, which are incredibly delicious.
And they pop coriander flavor.
>> STONE: So let's taste it.
>> Yeah.
>> STONE: Wow, that's cool.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> It's a great pop.
>> It really explodes.
You can taste a young cilantro and the spiciness of the flower, also, you know?
>> STONE: Could I take a little, because... >> Please!
>> STONE: ...I'm thinking of doing like a raw fish dish with these little pops, these explosions of flavor.
It'll be so good.
>> The flowers will be amazing.
I'm thinking of making, like, a chilled gazpacho, and I think it's going to give some beautiful color.
>> STONE: So you take the flowers, I'll take the seeds.
>> There you go.
>> STONE: Leave the leaf.
>> Yes, exactly.
>> STONE: It's way too boring.
(laughter) I'm noticing a ton of bees.
>> Yes.
>> STONE: Do you have a lot of bees here?
>> (chuckles) Well... >> STONE: So if you look like a spaceman...
While Martín and I seek out the queen bee, Les is with her daughter up at our venue, the Hacienda CortaCaro, prepping the tortillas for the quesadillas.
>> This is fun for Madeline and I.
We haven't worked together in a while.
I taught my daughter to cook.
She also took classes from me when I was instructing at the community college.
>> I was supposed to call her "Chef," but I refused.
It was weird.
>> STONE: Chef Leslie Chavez is a New Mexico local who won Chef of the Year in 2013 from the New Mexico Restaurant Association.
She's currently a chef at Adobo Catering and chef-partner for Coriander Catering.
Leslie won her award while cooking for a family restaurant, Tecalote, a well-known establishment in Santa Fe.
>> We'll see if we can't find the queen in here.
This is a brand new comb.
This is white honeycomb.
So they're in a space of expansion right now.
They're really pumping out the wax production here.
When a hive is healthy enough, the bees say, "Hey, we're getting big enough that we want to actually become two entities."
So there's the queen bee.
>> STONE: Wow.
>> Yeah.
So her abdomen is a lot longer than the rest of the hive.
>> STONE: Look how pampered she's getting.
>> Those are her attendants-- she's laying an egg right now.
The queen bee will start to lay a lot of eggs, and the worker bees, when they're making a new queen, will start to draw out a queen cell on the end of particular eggs, and they'll pack that really tight and heavy with royal jelly.
Whoever emerges first after being incubated, the first virgin queen, will find all of the other queen cells in the hive and sting them and kill them before they hatch.
So the twisty funnel things are the cells where the virgin queens were killed, and then the worker bees worked the queen larvae out that never emerged because somebody else emerged before they did.
Oh, and look here-- this is a baby bee being born.
>> STONE: No way!
>> Whoa, wow, that's incredible.
>> Yep, see the wax cap that's coming off.
She needs to open up that wax cap on her own and... Oh, look-- her head just got out.
>> STONE: That's incredible.
>> That's amazing.
>> STONE: Look at her!
>> And just give her some time here, and her whole body will emerge.
>> STONE: Welcome.
>> What an amazing thing.
>> Oh!
Way to go, babe, way to go.
>> STONE: Oh, we're so lucky to see that.
♪ ♪ >> Hi, Leslie.
>> Hey!
>> How are you?
>> Nice to see you.
>> Welcome to Chimayo.
>> Thank you, thank you for having us.
>> STONE: I'm Curtis.
>> Welcome to Chimayo.
>> STONE: They say it's the best place in the world to grow chilis-- is it true?
>> Yes.
>> What are you going to show us today?
>> I will show you how to ground Chimayo chili.
>> STONE: So you can't call it a Chimayo chili unless it's grown here?
>> The soil makes the difference.
For 100 years, the seed is still here.
>> STONE: You know, in France, they talk about their wines in that way-- it's not a Burgundy unless it comes from Burgundy.
Where are you from, originally?
>> I'm from Durango, Mexico.
>> STONE: Uh-huh.
>> I have 60 years here in Chimayo.
>> STONE: Yeah.
>> It's like Durango-- you can see mountains everywhere.
>> STONE: It's beautiful.
>> Beautiful, yeah.
>> STONE: You're the biggest grower in Chimayo?
>> Right now.
>> STONE: Show us the chili-- what's it look like?
>> Right here we have the Chimayo chili.
>> STONE: Oh, my goodness.
>> Wow.
>> They're beautiful.
>> STONE: Look at the... Can I touch it?
>> Yes.
>> Oh, man.
>> I open it and I put it on the tables over there.
>> STONE: Yeah?
>> Two, three days to dry, and see how they're crispy?
Then put it in a machine.
>> STONE: Oh, let's see it.
>> Okay.
(engine starting) ♪ ♪ (coughing) >> It's like mustard gas!
>> Pepper spray.
>> STONE: How do you do this?
(laugh) I need a bandanna!
>> A gas mask.
>> STONE: If you grind ten pounds, how much do you end up with?
>> Nine.
>> STONE: You lose one pound per... >> Yes, if I ground 100 pounds I lost ten pounds.
>> STONE: Well, I think I breathed half of that in.
>> (laughing) >> STONE: (coughing) Can I take a little bit with me?
Because I'm going to make, like, an avocado crema.
And I'm going to serve it with some raw fish.
>> You can put it in anything.
In your scrambled eggs, and your pineapple, and your orange... >> Jicama.
>> ... and your popcorn, and your jicama.
>> STONE: Are you going to use it, too?
>> I'm going to use it, too.
I'm going to put it into my bacon-wrapped shrimp.
>> STONE: Oh, yum.
>> Can't wait.
>> STONE: Thank you so much.
>> This is so exciting.
Thank you!
Ai!
(laugh) >> Hey, how about an elbow?
>> STONE: This is how they invented a fist bump.
(laughter) ♪ ♪ >> Today, I'm going to make some miniature quesadillas with calabacitas inside.
A quesadilla is a tortilla with cheese.
>> STONE: What is calabacitas?
>> It's Spanish for zucchini and squash.
>> STONE: Oh, okay.
>> So we have summer squash, yellow squash.
The Spaniards brought the wheat and the cream, they made the cheese, so then the Natives, they had the calabasas, the corn.
You combine them, match made in New Mexico.
Hear that popping?
That's a good sound.
So I'm going to throw in my green chilis as well.
>> STONE: So these are the famous Hatch chilis.
>> They are.
When you're from New Mexico or have spent any time here and been around the chili season, and you smell that first chili roasting, it's, like, "Oh, it's here!"
>> It's sweet, it's a little smoky.
>> STONE: That's the smell of your summer.
>> It's the whole town, just smells like that.
>> And it brings everybody out, you know?
It brings family together.
>> Right.
>> It smells like home.
>> STONE: How fantastic is that?
>> Yeah.
I'm going to take the corn off the cob.
And I have this little trick-- you get a bigger vessel, put a small bowl inside, set it here.
>> STONE: Oh, so it doesn't go all over the cutting board.
>> Yeah.
>> STONE: That's clever.
There's people all over the place right now, watching this, saying, "Wow, I've been doing it wrong my entire life."
You saw it here.
>> Let's start with sautéing the garlic.
And I'm going to go right in with the calabacitas.
So we have some toasted cumin, but I want to leave it a little chunky.
I'm going to put that right on top.
Not all of it.
>> STONE: Oh, the smell is unbelievable.
Sweet garlic.
>> So I hit it with some pepper.
>> STONE: Yum.
>> And, we're going to peel these chilis.
>> STONE: Even from just peeling a couple, I can feel, like, a tingling in my fingers.
>> Don't put it in your eye.
(laughing) >> STONE: I'm scared to touch anything now.
>> Now I'm going to toss this into the calabacitas.
>> STONE: Calabacitas-- love that word.
May I?
>> Please do.
>> STONE: Mmm.
>> And then we're going to hit it also with some fresh chopped... >> STONE: Whoo!
It's good.
>> ...cilantro from the Rooted Leaf.
>> STONE: What an incredible place.
>> Pretty amazing.
>> There.
>> STONE: Beautiful.
Tastes delicious.
>> Thank you.
>> STONE: Yum.
Martín, what are you cooking?
>> We're making a tamale.
>> STONE: Let's make a tamale.
>> All right.
So we're going to get our masa.
>> STONE: So, it's just ground dried corn.
>> Yes.
We are going to enhance it with organic cornmeal.
You can see the speckles.
They use three different kinds of corn.
>> STONE: Right.
>> They use the blue, yellow, and red.
Gives it a really nice texture, and different kinds of flavor to it.
>> STONE: I bet.
>> Add a little bit of allspice, toasted cinnamon.
>> STONE: Mm-hmm.
>> Baking powder, then we add our duck fat.
>> STONE: So the duck fat's more for flavor.
>> And also to prevent getting it too heavy.
>> STONE: I like the way you roll.
You're saying that the duck fat is going to keep it nice and light.
>> (laughs): Right.
And this is chicken stock.
You want a soft paste-- you don't want it to be too dry.
So this is kind of the texture that we want.
We're going to let it rest for just a couple of minutes, and we're going to make our stuffing.
Our stuffing has crushed black beans.
>> STONE: So you've cooked those in chicken stock?
>> Chicken stock, a little bit of aromatic vegetables and herbs.
Add some apple-smoked bacon.
>> STONE: Nice.
>> Our Hatch green chili.
Caramelized onions.
Pepper jack cheese.
A little bit of chicken stock, just to give some moisture to it.
And then we're going to add a little bit of chopped cilantro from our farm, the Rooted Leaf.
This is a basically our stuffing.
>> STONE: Great.
>> Okay?
So for the tamale, we're going to use a piece of aluminum foil and plastic wrap, okay?
>> STONE: Because normally now you'd be laying out some corn husks.
>> Some corn husks, right.
Exactly.
Yeah, if you can hold it there for... >> STONE: Two-man job.
>> Yeah.
You're basically using the same technique of making the classic tamale dough into a corn husk.
We're just doing it a little bit different.
>> STONE: This is going to taste so good.
>> So now we're going to enclose it.
So we use the plastic wrap kind of like the corn husk.
We're going to basically roll it.
>> STONE: So you're going to kind of steam it.
>> You're going to steam it, exactly.
But we're just giving it a little bit of a different shape.
>> STONE: Beautiful, perfect shape.
>> Bring it to the steamer, and then... >> STONE: So this is actually a chili roaster.
>> That's a chili roaster, but, you know, you have to improvise.
>> STONE: I love it.
>> We're going to wrap it around.
>> STONE: Kind of a makeshift lid.
>> Yeah.
We're going to let it steam there for about 25 minutes, and then when it comes out, it's going to be a beautiful huskless tamale, basically.
>> STONE: You're talking my language-- yum.
♪ ♪ When I was flying in here, I was thinking of all of the flavors of New Mexico-- the things that you grow so well.
Corn and chili peppers.
And to me, it just screams raw fish.
So I got a little hamachi, and I'm going to do, like, a crudo of sorts-- a raw fish preparation.
And I want the punchy heat of the Hatch chilis to really speak.
I'm going to make sort of a citrus lime-based marinade to go with it.
>> So it's going to be sort of like a ceviche.
>> STONE: Kind of like a ceviche, yeah.
>> The fattiness of the hamachi is going to balance really nice with the citrus.
>> STONE: That's what I'm hoping for.
And I want some of these really cool scallions.
I think these are the most interesting-looking scallions I've ever seen.
So who have we got coming tonight?
>> My two daughters, 20 and 16.
>> STONE: How fantastic.
>> Yeah.
>> STONE: I'm at the other end of the scale-- I've got a five-year-old and a two-year-old.
So my house is crazy right now.
So we thought, "Let's buy two puppies."
>> Oh, right on-- that's great.
>> STONE: I don't know if it's great, but it's going to happen.
The next thing I'm going to do is take these beautiful soft avocados and just throw them into a food processor with lots of fresh lime.
And so that not only will give it a nice zippy taste, but it will also stop it from oxidizing, or turning brown.
>> Right.
>> STONE: I was so inspired by this Chimayo red chili powder that we found this morning, so I'm going to add just a little.
It's such a delicate flavor.
>> It really is.
>> STONE: Okay, so we blend that.
I think our guests are arriving, so let's just have a little taste.
It's good, right?
>> Oh, wow.
>> STONE: Is that good?
>> Really good, great flavor.
>> STONE: When the guests arrive and the meal still has just a few minutes to go, a cocktail makes that time pass quite nicely.
>> The drink I'm making is called the Corn Maiden, and I went with that name because I'm starting with a corn-based vodka.
We start off by rimming the drink with a Chimayo red chili sugar.
I don't rim the whole glass.
I just give it a little lipstick kiss.
So I squeeze about half an ounce of lemon juice.
Next, I use about half an ounce of corn milk, made by cutting the kernels of fresh corn off the cob, blending them, and then extracting the juice from them.
And then about three-quarters of an ounce of a sage-infused pineapple juice syrup.
I put an ounce and a half of vodka infused with Chimayo red chili, because it has a beautiful savory quality that plays really nicely with the corn.
And to give it a little kick, I put half an ounce of a Meyer lemon ginger liqueur.
Then you want to shake that all with ice.
And I always say that when you're shaking a cocktail, if you smile, it always tastes better.
And then gently strain it into the glass rimmed with the lipstick kiss, so it looks like the corn maiden took a little sip before you got it.
♪ ♪ >> STONE: It's hamachi, which is served raw.
I marinated it in Hatch chili, a little lime juice.
There's an avocado crema, some local radishes, ice plant, and then a couple of local microherbs.
>> Wow, it's amazing.
>> STONE: So is this for real, you've never eaten raw fish?
>> Mm-hmm.
>> STONE: And you're going to give it a shot for me?
>> I am.
>> STONE: I love you.
What do you think?
>> It's not bad.
(laughing) >> STONE: That's the best compliment I've had all day.
>> Oh, my God.
>> STONE: Is it okay?
>> Mm-hmm, I can do this.
>> STONE: She liked it.
>> Yes!
>> ♪ She's leaving this August ♪ ♪ It's time for her to go ♪ ♪ And I'm knowing that she's growing ♪ ♪ And that I'll miss her so.
♪ ♪ Baby, come home, baby, come home ♪ ♪ Baby, come home, lay your love on me ♪ ♪ Oh, baby, come home... ♪ >> Tonight's party, there's a lot of connections.
My being friends with Martín, and my daughter being Martín's pastry chef.
Our cameraman has friends and family in Albuquerque.
He was born there, grew up there.
Our culinary producer had her best friend come out from New York to join for the party.
Natalie Bovis, the mixologist.
Lauren from Rooted Leaf.
So it's just all these connections.
I get the chills just thinking about it.
I just think it's so beautiful how food brings people together.
>> ♪ Baby, come home.
♪ (cheering and applauding) (people chattering) (blender whirring) ♪ ♪ >> Today we're serving a refreshing heirloom tomato watermelon gazpacho, served with a tostada topped with blackened shrimp and fennel cabbage slaw garnished with these beautiful flowers from our farm.
>> STONE: Enjoy.
(laughter) ♪ ♪ >> Today I have for you a quesadilla calabacitas.
So there's squash and zucchini, onions, Hatch green chili from New Mexico, and a tomatillo salsa.
And I also have bacon-wrapped shrimp marinated in our Chimayo chili with honey from Rooted Leaf.
>> STONE: And this is going to go on my table at my next barbecue.
They look so delicious.
>> Here we have a roasted pork loin garnished with a tamale that is stuffed with black beans, caramelized onions, and jalapeño jack cheese.
♪ ♪ >> STONE: How was everything?
>> Yummy, yummy, yummy, yummy.
>> Fantastic.
>> STONE: Well, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Cheers, guys.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> For more information about this episode, recipes, and behind-the-scenes fun, make sure you go to Relish.com, follow us @MoveableFeast_TV on Instagram, and like us on Facebook.
See you next time on a Moveable Feast with Relish.
>> Major funding provided by: >> Ladies and gentlemen, your attention, please.
(gecko clears throat, feedback squeals) >> GEICO would like to take a moment to say thank you to our military service members at home and abroad for all their hard work and sacrifice.
We all sleep easier knowing you're out there keeping us safe.
And on a personal note... (jet engines roar, gecko's speech muffled) (crowd cheering) (exhales) Just needed to get that off my chest.
Thank you.
>> GEICO-- proudly supporting the military for over 75 years.
>> We can't just take from nature, so we collaborate.
Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way.
♪ ♪ >> Ocean Spray is a proud sponsor of Moveable Feast.
>> At Pure Leaf, the most important ingredient in making tea is saying no.
We're committed to saying no to artificial flavors and sweeteners in our brewed iced teas.
♪ ♪ >> I am Errico Auricchio, the founder of BelGioioso Cheese.
I came in 1979 from Italy with my family and the memory of Italian cheese.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> I am rolling.
>> ALEX: We're in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
Welcome to Ogunquit, Maine.
Today we're in Boston.
We're in Martha's Vineyard.
We're headed to Cottage City Oysters.
♪ ♪ And how often do you hand-shape them?
>> Every time we handle the oyster, we're actually chipping them by hand.
>> This time of year, we've consolidated a lot of the growing to this little market garden right here.
>> You can try, too, if you want to cut one.
>> ALEX: I would love to.
>> Yeah, perfect.
>> ALEX: Nailed it.
♪ ♪ We're doing something a little unusual today.
I'm milking a cow, oh, my God.
♪ ♪ (cow moos) >> So we're going to hop on into the bog.
So you just want to stay right on these planks till you get to the end.
We don't want you to go swimming yet.
>> ALEX: No!
Knowing me, I'm going to fall in.
This dish is a celebration of ingredients here in New England.
♪ ♪ This is real farm cooking.
>> Farm cooking.
♪ ♪ >> ALEX: This guy's a big guy.
(laughter) I just wanted to say thank you for joining us for tonight's feast.
♪ ♪ Eggs are very temperamental.
>> Correct.
>> It's amazing to be able to watch the steps go and then... (indistinct chatter, laughter) ♪ ♪ >> ALEX: Cheers, everybody.
Thank you for having us.
>> Thank you.
>> ALEX: Cheers, everybody.
(people whooping) ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪
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