
Seattle, Washington
11/28/2020 | 26m 20sVideo has Closed Captions
Travel to Seattle to get a memorable taste for the region known as Cascadia
Curtis Stone jumps aboard a seaplane with Chef Tom Douglas as they head to Coupeville on Whidbey Island. First stop: a visit to Penn Cove to see where mussels. Meet up with Georgie Smith of Willowood Farm. The chefs then collaborate on creating a true regional feast that includes steamed mussels, a spiced mussel and saffron soup and a grilled whole salmon with Walla Walla onions and fava leaves.
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Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Seattle, Washington
11/28/2020 | 26m 20sVideo has Closed Captions
Curtis Stone jumps aboard a seaplane with Chef Tom Douglas as they head to Coupeville on Whidbey Island. First stop: a visit to Penn Cove to see where mussels. Meet up with Georgie Smith of Willowood Farm. The chefs then collaborate on creating a true regional feast that includes steamed mussels, a spiced mussel and saffron soup and a grilled whole salmon with Walla Walla onions and fava leaves.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship♪ ♪ >> From the editors of Relish.com, we bring you Moveable Feast.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> STONE: Welcome to Seattle, Washington... >> When we eat fish in the Northwest, we eat fish with bones.
No whining, just pick them out, it's okay.
>> STONE: ...where we're throwing a wine-soaked feast with two of the region's finest: Renee Erickson and Tom Douglas.
I think between the two of them, they own 50% of the restaurants in Seattle.
(laughter) We're cooking with all the elements today: air... Woo-hoo!
Sea, land...
Even fire.
♪ ♪ Sustainable stuffed wild-caught salmon.
Sustainable mussels served two ways.
>> Ooh!
Thank you.
>> STONE: Of course.
What more could you want?
Except perhaps limitless free-flowing wine?
This recipe calls for a bottle of wine, minus a glass, which is very convenient, because I have an empty glass in front of me.
Cheers, guys.
>> ALL: Cheers.
>> Coming up next on Moveable Feast with Relish.
>> Major funding provided by: >> Ladies and gentlemen, your attention, please.
(gecko clears throat, feedback squeals) >> GEICO would like to take a moment to say thank you to our military service members at home and abroad for all their hard work and sacrifice.
We all sleep easier knowing you're out there keeping us safe.
And on a personal note... (jet engines roar, gecko's speech muffled) (crowd cheering) (exhales) Just needed to get that off my chest.
Thank you.
>> GEICO-- proudly supporting the military for over 75 years.
>> We can't just take from nature, so we collaborate.
Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way.
♪ ♪ >> Ocean Spray is a proud sponsor of Moveable Feast.
>> At Pure Leaf, the most important ingredient in making tea is saying no.
We're committed to saying no to artificial flavors and sweeteners in our brewed iced teas.
♪ ♪ >> I am Errico Auricchio, the founder of BelGioioso Cheese.
I came in 1979 from Italy with my family and the memory of Italian cheese.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> STONE: Woo-hoo!
♪ ♪ So I had no idea Seattle from the air looks just like a big waterway.
>> Surrounded by water.
>> STONE: Chef Renee Erickson has been a real fuse lighter in the foodie boom of Seattle.
A native of Woodinville, Washington, Renee won the 2016 James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Northwest.
Renee is the author of the cookbook A Boat, a Whale, and a Walrus, which highlights the best of fresh seafood in the Pacific Northwest.
>> Think back to the sea days, Indian tribes owning each and every little inlet.
You know, the campfires, what that must have looked like, huh?
Spectacular.
>> STONE: Unbelievable.
You can't talk about Seattle cuisine without giving props to Tom Douglas, one of the region's most celebrated chefs.
Tom was awarded Outstanding Restaurateur by the James Beard Foundation in 2012.
Just one of three to add to his collection.
Growing up in Delaware, where he took homemaking in high school, the self-taught chef employs almost a thousand people at his many restaurants, each fulfilling Tom's culinary mission: deliciousness served with graciousness.
Where exactly are we right now?
>> We're going up to Penn Cove Shellfish.
They farm mussels on rafts that float on top, it's super cool.
>> STONE: How cool.
>> And the mussels say it's the perfect spot, too.
>> STONE: Are they good?
>> Yeah, they're really good.
>> Oh look, you can see the rafts right down there, floating.
♪ ♪ >> STONE: Wow, they just look like little pontoons.
♪ ♪ >> Thank you!
Thank you very much.
♪ ♪ >> This is a mussel raft.
We have 42 of them out here in Penn Cove, and what we have here is mussels that we've been growing that are ready to be harvested.
>> STONE: So how do you even grow a mussel?
(laughter) They attach themselves to these ropes?
>> They sort of attach to everything-- the sides of the rafts, the bottom of the boat.
If that plane you came on were to stay here it'd have mussels on it in a couple of days.
(Renee chuckles) Basically, all these mussels will spawn, and release sperm and egg into the water.
And then fertilization takes place in the water.
And then they're just floating around looking for a place to call home.
So right before that happens, we hang out our collector lines.
So in a year's time, that line will turn into this one.
>> Want help?
>> STONE: They're wild.
>> That's beautiful.
>> Isn't that nice?
>> STONE: Do we get to taste one?
>> Sure!
>> STONE: 'Cause I guess a lot of people wouldn't even realize that you can eat them raw, right?
>> Sure you can.
You're going to see there's quite a bit of meat inside there.
>> STONE: It's beautiful.
>> It tastes good, huh?
>> STONE: It's sweet.
>> Tastes like the sea, yeah.
>> STONE: Why is this cove so special to grow mussels in?
>> Way out west, we're behind the Olympic Mountain range.
So we get a little more sunshine here than Seattle or Bellingham.
So the nutrient-rich water and the added sunlight just promotes algae growth.
And shellfish love to eat phytoplankton.
That's what they feed on.
>> STONE: They're filter feeders, right?
So what happens, the shell opens and closes in the water?
>> Correct.
An adult mussel will filter like 18 gallons of water a day.
>> STONE: Wow.
Which makes it like a super green way of producing shellfish, right?
>> It's really one of the most sustainable operations I've ever worked at.
You know, we collect the seed naturally ever spring, and we let Mother Nature do the rest.
>> STONE: So who's got a recipe?
What are we going to cook with the mussels?
>> I think I'm going to steam them and then chill them down and make a salad.
And tossing them with some vegetables that we find at the farm today on a piece of grilled bread with some aioli.
I really like them cold, especially when it's sunny and warm out.
>> STONE: Sounds good.
>> I'm a chowder guy.
>> STONE: Well, I'll do something a bit like a chowder, just for you, all right?
I'm going to make something that sort of resembles a chowder in some way.
>> All right, cool.
>> STONE: Creamy soup, get ready.
>> In a bowl.
♪ ♪ >> Hey, guys!
>> Hi, Georgie.
>> Welcome to Willowood!
>> STONE: Hi, Georgie.
>> This is Peanut.
>> Hi, Peanut.
>> Hey, Peanut.
>> We're on a national reserve, which is a unit of the National Park Service.
So it allows people like us to keep farming.
Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve is preserving a true working agricultural community.
So we're not like a Colonial Williamsburg, we're actually modern farmers.
And the preservation of the land helps us to keep farming.
>> STONE: So it stops the farmers from getting squeezed out, basically.
>> Yeah, exactly, that's exactly what it is.
>> Awesome.
>> STONE: That's awesome.
>> This land has been in my family since the late 1800s, and I'm the third generation to farm here.
>> STONE: I like the look of that rhubarb.
>> Yeah.
When you pick rhubarb, you don't want to break it, you want to just pull it.
That makes it keep growing.
But if you break it, then it doesn't keep producing more leaves.
That was a good job, Renee.
>> Did I do all right?
>> Oh, yeah, that's a good one.
(snap) Oh, yeah, see, you broke it.
(laughter) >> STONE: I'm so sorry.
>> You're fired.
>> STONE: I feel horrible.
>> Yeah, no, you got to put your hand down lower.
>> STONE: Gotta get down lower.
>> Just pull it.
>> Pull it up, slow.
There, that's better.
>> STONE: See, there's the rest of it.
>> You're a pro.
>> STONE: Yeah, pathetic.
(chuckles) Rhubarb's one of those plants you actually can't eat the leaf, can you?
>> No, the leaves and roots are both poisonous.
>> STONE: Right, it's the blowfish of the veggie patch.
>> Take your chances.
(laughing) >> STONE: If it's prepared properly, it's okay.
♪ ♪ >> Here's the fava beans coming along.
>> They look luscious.
>> The beans aren't yet, of course, here, but they're great if you want to eat the leaves.
>> They taste like the bean.
They have that like creamy fattiness.
>> I never knew you could eat the leaves until you guys ordered them.
>> STONE: Does that happen often when you get a call from a chef like Renee and she's like, "Hey, I want the leaves?"
And you're like, "You can eat the leaves?"
>> That happens all the time.
(laughter) >> STONE (stage whisper): And then you get paid twice.
>> That's the secret.
>> You're welcome, Georgie.
(laughter) >> See that?
Look at how cute he is.
He's working the hedge rows for nests.
Peanut is a rat terrier.
His job on the farm is rodent patrol.
>> STONE: Are you for real?
I thought you were joking.
>> I love it, watching him go up and down.
That's what they're bred to do, it's instinctual.
He knows his job and he wants to do it.
(Curtis whistles) >> STONE: Peanut.
>> I need some radishes.
>> And turnips.
>> Love these.
We're gonna go check out some garlic scapes.
The fun thing about garlic scapes is you only get one per garlic per year.
It's like popping a huge zit.
It has that great, you know... >> ...satisfaction.
>> The satisfaction.
Yeah.
>> Oh, you've been busy.
>> STONE: How's that?
>> They look okay, that's gor... you're doing a good job.
>> STONE: So what do you do, you pickle them, you... >> Chop them up, they're great grilled, like just a little bit of olive oil, put them on the grill.
>> You know those mussels we were picking out today?
>> STONE: Yeah.
>> Perfect combination.
>> STONE: Okay, sounds like a challenge, I'm going to do it.
♪ ♪ Tonight's venue is the Columbia Winery in Woodinville, Washington, which just happens to be where Chef Erickson was born.
Columbia was founded by a group of ten friends, who were out to prove that the vast hilly landscapes, mountainous microclimates and soil conditions of the region could sustain a decent wine culture.
Spoiler alert: it could.
♪ ♪ So what's cooking, good looking?
(Renee laughs) Whatcha making?
>> That's a good way to start.
I am making a mussel toast, basically, with some pickled rhubarb, and aioli.
>> STONE: Some of Georgie's beautiful rhubarb.
>> Georgie's rhubarb, yeah.
>> STONE: All right, show us your mussels.
>> All right.
Because this is a cold dish, I want to steam the mussels in advance.
And what I like to use is a little bit of olive oil.
Spring garlic.
Add in the wine.
I'm using the Riesling.
I think the sweetness of it is a nice addition to the mussel.
>> STONE: We could have just brought a really big straw and helped ourself to one of these barrels.
(Renee laughs) So these are the mussels that we harvested this morning.
I'm just going to cover these and let them steam open, and then they'll be done.
>> STONE: Beautiful.
What got you interested in cooking in the first place?
>> You know, I was an art student, and I got to travel to Rome.
And it just changed my mind around food.
And I planned on going to school and becoming an art teacher and ended up buying a restaurant and became a chef, so... Yeah, a little... a little change of events.
>> STONE: So what's a bigger influence on your cooking, French or Italian?
>> Oh... that's mean.
(Curtis chuckles) Probably French food, if I had to say.
>> STONE: Wow.
>> However, the first time that I really kind of fell in love with food was in Rome.
To go back as an adult, you just see other things and learn more stuff.
Rather than being a student and skipping meals for gelato, I learned more about food.
>> STONE: Which you should get a credit for, by the way.
>> Yeah, right, I know, right?
>> STONE: So mussel shucking.
>> Mussel shucking, which there's a fun trick.
The best way is to use them as a pincher.
>> STONE: Oh, that's cool.
>> Out they come, it's so much easier.
It's the polite way to eat them in France.
>> STONE: To use another mussel to pick it up.
>> Yup.
>> STONE: Oh yeah.
>> They're so sweet.
It's like what you do on a beach.
So I'm just going to let them cool down, toss a little olive oil on them.
I'm going to toast some bread next, and then I'm going to assemble it when that's done.
>> STONE: Gorgeous.
So while you do your toast, I'm going to make a delicious mussel soup.
Well, I hope it's gonna be delicious.
This is one of those soups that mussel farmers absolutely love because you actually use a lot of mussels to make a little bit of soup.
And we're going to throw a lot of the mussels out because we're going to cook them down till they're these tough little flavorless things, and all the flavor will be transferred into the soup.
So a little bit of butter.
And then I just sweat down some onions, some leeks and celery.
Okay.
And then I add a little saffron, a little curry powder, and a little cayenne pepper.
>> Curtis, I'm curious, what's the overwhelming influence down in Australia?
>> STONE: Australia has had a chip on its shoulder for a little while in the culinary world.
And now it's just overachieving.
>> In Melbourne?
>> STONE: Yeah.
When I did my apprenticeship, it was just common knowledge that unless you went and worked in Europe, you know, you weren't any good.
>> Or you didn't get a chef job.
>> STONE: Right.
But I didn't learn this soup in Australia, I learned it cooking in London.
This is a soup we used to serve at the Mirabelle.
So once you've softened it up with the spice that we've added, I throw my mussels in.
>> I gotta say, I've never seen anyone cooking down like you're talking about doing.
>> STONE: It almost feels sacrilege, to strain the mussels out of the soup, but I'm really interested to see how it works with these particular mussels.
Okay, so I've got just a little rosé, which I'm going to drink.
(Renee chuckles) >> Always helps.
>> STONE: Because this recipe calls for a bottle of wine, minus a glass, which is very convenient, because I have an empty glass in front of me.
Now I'm using a Riesling.
I think the sweetness will work well with that cayenne pepper.
Some fish stock.
And just a little white pepper.
So I'm going to bring this up to the boil, and then let it boil all the flavor out of those mussels and extract it into the soup, and then finish it with a little cream and strain it, and it's done.
>> Delicious.
>> STONE: So simple.
All right, Tom, salmon time.
>> Salmon time.
>> STONE: Gorgeous looking fish, Tom.
>> Thank you.
One of the Northwest's spirit animals, I call them.
Without the salmon, this town wouldn't be the same.
We're going to roast it whole over a applewood fire.
>> STONE: Ooh, yes.
>> And then serve it up in chunks for our diners this evening.
>> STONE: Love that.
>> Yeah.
It's rustic, very rustic.
>> STONE: Very cool.
All right, let's stuff this young beauty.
We have some lemons, dill, spring onions, the garlic scapes that we couldn't escape from.
(Curtis chuckles) >> STONE: And what kind of salmon is this?
>> This is a king salmon.
So there's a lot of different species here.
Three main ones are the sockeye, the Coho and the king.
This is the fattiest, so... >> STONE: So you're not removing any bones?
>> Nope.
What I say, because I have a moustache, you know.
I say eating fish without bones is like kissing a man without a mustache.
(Curtis laughs) I love what you're doing, too.
You're using all the tops and all the bits that aren't going to end up on the beautiful plate of vegetables.
There's still a use for them in the kitchen.
>> We're going to extract all that flavor like you are out of your mussels.
We're going to do the same out of every part of what we picked.
All right, you've probably done this before.
Take our string.
We're just kind of holding things together.
>> STONE: So this is just to keep all those flavorings and aromatics in the cavity.
>> Yeah, it basically just keeps them in place.
>> STONE: It's a beautiful way to cook for a group, a whole fish like that.
>> It is, but if you're buying a salmon in the marketplace and you go to the store and it's a filet of salmon there, you want it from the collar end.
So that's going to be the fattiest part.
It's the least amount of work.
This is the tail, right?
This does the most work.
>> STONE: Right.
>> So that's gonna be the toughest part, right?
This is the collar end, so that's going to be the fattiest part.
That does the least amount of work.
And this little bite under here, as we know, is the best bite on the salmon, right?
Right under this fin.
And leave this for somebody who doesn't know better.
>> Just the ones that want well done food.
(Tom and Curtis chuckle) Save the collar for us.
>> Off to the grill.
>> STONE: Very good.
How are my mussels looking?
Are you destroying them as instructed?
>> I am, yes, like they're losing all their flavor.
>> STONE: Love that.
I'm going to strain these out.
So if poor Tim could see his mussels now.
(Renee chuckles) >> STONE: Look, he'd say, "You've destroyed them," and he's right.
>> Yeah.
>> STONE: But I've stolen all of their flavor.
And it's going to be in this fantastic soup.
So I think I'll just steam a few more mussels and I'll just serve that with maybe some of those pea flowers and the chopped up garlic scapes.
>> Beautiful.
>> STONE: And that's it.
Do you want to taste it?
>> Yes.
Thank you.
>> STONE: What do you think?
Excellent, I love it.
♪ ♪ (sizzling) So this is a really quick dish with the baby turnips that we picked this morning.
And I've made some butter that has anchovy and preserved lemon in it.
>> STONE: Okay.
>> First up, we're just going to melt the butter in the pan.
>> STONE: So you just chop up the preserved lemon and the anchovy, mix it through the butter, and that's it?
>> Yeah, it should have that nice toasty, hazelnutty smell.
Baby turnips with the greens on.
This time of year the greens come out gorgeous and tender, so they're really great to use.
>> STONE: We juice our greens at home.
Get a bit of nutrition into the kids' breakfasts.
>> So L.A. of you.
>> STONE: Yeah.
I wear my aerobics pants to the supermarket as well.
>> And your Uggs?
>> STONE: Mm-hmm.
>> Awesome.
All right, so... (laughing) Some of the scapes going in.
And I'm going to grate in a little lemon peel to give it a little more brightness, and that'll do it.
>> STONE: So they don't take a lot of cooking.
>> No, the turnip will take some cooking, the greens are going to kind of overcook a little.
But if you keep everything kind of flat to the pan, they'll cook up pretty quick.
>> STONE: Smells so good.
>> I know, right?
And this is something you could cook in advance, too.
They're great room temperature.
>> STONE: Yeah.
>> A little thyme, and then delicious salty sheep's milk pecorino.
>> STONE: And if you don't mind, I'm just going to check it to make sure our guests are going to be happy.
>> Butter and turnips, the best.
>> STONE: Mmm!
Perfectly cooked.
>> Good.
(indistinct chatter) >> STONE: One tip for getting a good party started: get a drink in your guests' hands ASAP.
This being a winery.
(glass clinking) >> Today we've got Grenache rosé in our glass from the Horse Heaven Hills area, which is a little bit of a warmer climate.
This has a little what's called frisante.
So if you taste it and there's little bubbles in your mouth, and it goes down nice and easy, that's from frisante.
Most rosés you need to have a little bit of residual sugar, so it brings out kind of that strawberry, cranberry and cherry flavors, which is what makes rosé so popular.
So if you're a white wine drinker, you like rosé, right?
If you're a red wine drinker, you like rosé.
(chuckling) So cheers, everybody.
>> ALL: Cheers.
(glasses clinking) >> Thank you.
♪ ♪ (excited chatter) ♪ ♪ (loud crunch) ♪ ♪ >> STONE: I have been hosted by two of the best chefs in town.
I think between the two of them they own 50% of the restaurants in Seattle.
(laughing) I'm starting you off with a little soup.
It's made with saffron, Penn Cove mussels, and just a little bit of cayenne pepper.
>> And this is toast that we grilled with a little garlic aioli, steamed mussels, pickled rhubarb, pea vines, and some arugula.
>> STONE: Bon appétit, enjoy.
>> Thank you.
(excited chatter) >> It's really good.
>> How is the toast?
>> Oh, my gosh, incredible.
So many different layers of flavor there.
>> Good.
>> It was really spectacular.
>> It was divine, I loved every spoonful.
The broth is just the right amount of spice.
>> STONE: Oh, I'm so glad.
♪ ♪ (sizzling) >> These are some baby turnips sautéed in a preserved lemon and anchovy butter with thyme flowers and some pecorino on top.
>> We have a wild king salmon done over applewood.
When we eat fish in the Northwest, we eat fish with bones.
No whining, just pick them out, it's okay.
And then we also have Walla Walla sweet onions, Persian cress and fava bean leaves.
Cheers.
>> ALL: Cheers.
♪ ♪ How is it so far?
>> Oh, my gosh.
>> "Oh my gosh," that's good.
(man laughing) >> STONE: I've had so much fun up here in Seattle and the Pacific Northwest.
Beautiful ingredients and super friendly people.
♪ ♪ (glasses clinking) ♪ ♪ >> For more information about this episode, recipes, and behind-the-scenes fun, make sure you go to Relish.com, follow us, @MoveableFeast_TV, on Instagram, and like us on Facebook.
See you next time on a Moveable Feast with Relish.
>> Major funding provided by: >> Ladies and gentlemen, your attention, please.
(gecko clears throat, feedback squeals) >> GEICO would like to take a moment to say thank you to our military service members at home and abroad for all their hard work and sacrifice.
We all sleep easier knowing you're out there keeping us safe.
And on a personal note... (jet engines roar, gecko's speech muffled) (crowd cheering) (exhales) Just needed to get that off my chest.
Thank you.
>> GEICO-- proudly supporting the military for over 75 years.
>> We can't just take from nature, so we collaborate.
Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way.
♪ ♪ >> Ocean Spray is a proud sponsor of Moveable Feast.
>> At Pure Leaf, the most important ingredient in making tea is saying no.
We're committed to saying no to artificial flavors and sweeteners in our brewed iced teas.
♪ ♪ >> I am Errico Auricchio, the founder of BelGioioso Cheese.
I came in 1979 from Italy with my family and the memory of Italian cheese.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> I am rolling.
>> ALEX: We're in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
Welcome to Ogunquit, Maine.
Today we're in Boston.
We're in Martha's Vineyard.
We're headed to Cottage City Oysters.
♪ ♪ And how often do you hand-shape them?
>> Every time we handle the oyster, we're actually chipping them by hand.
>> This time of year, we've consolidated a lot of the growing to this little market garden right here.
>> You can try, too, if you want to cut one.
>> ALEX: I would love to.
>> Yeah, perfect.
>> ALEX: Nailed it.
♪ ♪ We're doing something a little unusual today.
I'm milking a cow, oh, my God.
♪ ♪ (cow moos) >> So we're going to hop on into the bog.
So you just want to stay right on these planks till you get to the end.
We don't want you to go swimming yet.
>> ALEX: No!
Knowing me, I'm going to fall in.
This dish is a celebration of ingredients here in New England.
♪ ♪ This is real farm cooking.
>> Farm cooking.
♪ ♪ >> ALEX: This guy's a big guy.
(laughter) I just wanted to say thank you for joining us for tonight's feast.
♪ ♪ Eggs are very temperamental.
>> Correct.
>> It's amazing to be able to watch the steps go and then... (indistinct chatter, laughter) ♪ ♪ >> ALEX: Cheers, everybody.
Thank you for having us.
>> Thank you.
>> ALEX: Cheers, everybody.
(people whooping) ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪


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