MICHAEL: Hello and welcome to Ireland with Michael.

I'm Michael Londra, and in this show I get to tell you everything I love about my home country, the best way I know how, through music.

I've just flown into Shannon Airport, gateway to the west of Ireland.

Instead of touching down in Dublin, this historic airport gives you direct access to the iconic scenery along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Today, we'll be exploring everything you can do on day one in County Clare.

It's all classic Ireland.

Deeply spiritual sites, which connect both to our patron saints and ancient goddesses.

A fascinating cave system that'll take you to another world.

And of course, amazing food that exemplifies Irish culinary tradition.

It's all available to you when you take Clare by Air.

♪ ♪ ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael is made possible by... ♪ ANNOUNCER: Whether traveling to Ireland for the first time, or just longing to return, there's plenty more information available at Ireland.com.

♪ ANNOUNCER: CIE Tours, sharing the magic of Ireland for 90 years.

♪ ANNOUNCER: Aer Lingus has been bringing people home since 1936.

If you are thinking about Ireland, Aer Lingus is ready when you are to take you home.

♪ MICHAEL: This is the historic Shannon Airport in a location originally scouted by aviation legend Charles Lindbergh.

In the 80 years since, it's constantly reinvented itself in an effort to make it the premier arrival point to Ireland, a reputation cemented by its many celebrity passengers.

I'm here to talk to Niall Kearns, director of the airport.

Niall, how are you?

I am so happy to be back here in Shannon Airport.

It's about 20 years since I've been here and it's a different place.

Tell me about Shannon Airport and the services it provides us to North America.

NIALL: Well, we're the only airport on the west coast of Ireland who have direct daily transatlantic services into the United States.

So we have flights into New York, Boston and Chicago on a daily basis.

MICHAEL: What's the benefit of- of using Shannon as opposed to Dublin Airport?

NIALL: When you fly into Shannon, we have- we pride ourselves on making it easy for our passengers and there's a number of ways that we try and do that.

So, for example, Shannon was the first airport outside of the Americas to have US pre-clearance.

So that means if you're a US passenger and you're flying back to the United States from Shannon, you clear US immigration here in Shannon and that saves you a lot of time on the far side.

MICHAEL: There's one really interesting fact about Shannon and its connection to duty-free shopping.

NIALL: Absolutely.

Shan- the duty free was actually invented here in Shannon Airport in this building in 1947.

MICHAEL: So if I fly in from New York, and I want to connect to the rest of the Europe, have- have I options?

NIALL: Absolutely.

Well, we've got 35 different routes to 11 countries all around Europe, so we can cater to wherever you need to go.

MICHAEL: And do a little bit of duty-free shopping while you're here?

NIALL: Absolutely, in the world's first duty free.

MICHAEL: I travel all the time and security, let's face it, it's a bit of a nightmare in airports around the world but I know that Shannon has a unique feature connected to security.

NIALL: Well, we really do.

We've upgraded all of our security screening equipment to the latest and greatest technology in the last number of years, and that has a huge benefit for passengers going through.

They can leave all of their liquids and gels in the bag they don't need to take them out.

And as well, they can leave all their electronics, their iPads, phones, tablets inside in the bag.

And in addition to that, when you're flying to the United States, we've combined our airport and TSA security checkpoints so you only have one security checkpoint to go through.

Again, we're trying to make it easy here in Shannon Airport for our passengers.

MICHAEL: Now, I know over the years you've had pretty important visitors, and there's a US connection to this airport in particular.

Can you tell us a little bit more about that?

NIALL: There absolutely is because Shannon is the most westerly airport in- in Europe.

And so as a result of that, we were a natural stopping point across the Atlantic for anybody flying from the United States.

So we would've had a lot of movie stars, Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, famous celebrities and even royalty.

King Charles, when he was Prince, flew into Shannon.

And we've had almost every US president since JFK here in Shannon Airport.

MICHAEL: It seems like every single VIP that's come through here gets their photograph on this wall.

President Kennedy, President Obama, I'm wondering where they're gonna hang my photograph.

Anyone?

♪ Steal away, steal away ♪ Steal away to Jesus Derek, I can't believe that I am right in the heart of Clare.

In Shannon Airport of all places talking to one of the leading gospel groups in Ireland, how in the name of God did you end up being a gospel choir in the middle of the west of Ireland?

DEREK: It happened about 14 years ago.

We went to a workshop up in Dublin and we'd never felt anything like it because we're used to musical theater and performing in shows.

But when you sang what they were teaching us, it came out of your chest as opposed to your throat or your diaphragm.

MICHAEL: Right.

DEREK: It was pure energy.

And what it got us into was the meaning of the songs and delivering the songs.

'Cause sometimes difference between a chamber choir and a gospel choir is, you know, that you feel the energy and it supports the message of the song.

MICHAEL: When I think of choirs in Ireland, I think of those church choirs that we all kinda grew up with.

So it's a huge leap, a leap of faith really to be able to sing in choirs where it's all very fixed and small, singing very ordered Christian music to something that involves raising your hands.

God forbid you should dance and have a great time, but that's what I love about you.

♪ Steal away, steal away home ♪ ♪ I ain't got long to stay here ♪ ♪ Green trees are bending ♪ Poor sinners stand a-trembling ♪ ♪ The trumpet sound within my soul ♪ ♪ I ain't got long to stay here ♪ MICHAEL: What do you do now?

Do you perform locally or do you tour?

Do you record?

DEREK: We started off singing in- in church originally, and Jesus, they didn't know what to do with us, you know, because... MICHAEL: Now you're- Now you're playing it in- in rock festivals.

DEREK: Yeah.

MICHAEL: And pop festivals.

DEREK: And then we were asked...

There's a friend, he's become a friend, but Paddy Casey would be a well-known singer songwriter.

Even in the States, he would've been on David Letterman.

MICHAEL: Yeah, we know him.

DEREK: And he asked us to sing on a couple of songs on The Secret Of- Secret Life Of, and we went and did three songs on that.

♪ Steal away, steal away ♪ Steal away to Jesus ♪ Steal away, steal away, steal away ♪ ♪ Steal away, steal away, steal away ♪ ♪ Steal away to Jesus, yeah, yeah ♪ MICHAEL: Can I just ask, how does being Irish make you a better gospel singer, do you think?

DEREK: Um, storytelling probably.

We're all storytellers and we like listening to stories and we like telling stories.

And I think the songs that we choose to do have a message behind it.

We don't kind of, we wouldn't pick any chart song.

It has to have something positive and be inspiring.

♪ Steal away home ♪ I ain't got long to stay here ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: I am in the heart of the peaceful countryside of County Clare.

And you expect to find the occasional gorgeous little pub, but what you don't expect is what Kate Sweeney and Aidan McGrath have opened here in Lisdoonvarna.

Not only a pub, but a Michelin-star pub.

Let's go in and find out.

So, Aidan, how in the name of God does a Michelin-star chef end up in a beautiful village here in the middle of County Clare?

AIDAN: Um, we had a restaurant in Bunratty, and after that we thought we'd like to get something with rooms.

This came up.

My call- always felt like doing something in a pub and... MICHAEL: It's the center of our business and social life.

AIDAN: It was our social life, you know, and I thought then, you know, perhaps if I- you know, our restaurant before was a little bit stuffy and I wanted to have a more relaxed environment for- for serving food.

Probably might help business in a way, and- and maybe attract a wider audience.

MICHAEL: And obviously it worked.

AIDAN: Well, we changed in August of 2009, we stopped dead in our tracks for two days, change- made a change, and we got a visit from the Red Guide, the Michelin Guide in September of that year.

And we just thought it was a normal guide.

We're going get into the guide.

That's great.

Anyway, and lo and behold, we got a Bib Gourmand when it was published in January 2010.

And then in '17 we got a Michelin star which was... MICHAEL: Wow.

AIDAN: The top- the top award.

MICHAEL: So, what I want to know is, obviously you're classically trained in the art of French cooking.

How do you apply that to Irish cuisine?

AIDAN: Well, the- the- the techniques are French and the basics are French, and- and the fundamentals are French, but, you know, Ireland by and large has got very good pasture land, very good cattle, very good sheep, very good game in the winter time.

And we have an abundance of fish in the sea, so, you know, ideally the west coast is a great place to cook.

MICHAEL: What are you cooking today?

AIDAN: I've got different things on the menu tonight.

I've got ham hock terrine, I've got a lobster royale, which is lobster from the local fishermen here.

He just fishes off Doolin, Michael, seaweed butter, the greenhouse courgette and broad beans, pork cheeks, field mushrooms, fresh garden peas, puff of velouté, a ribeye steak, crushed celeriac, hand cut chips with sauce béarnaise, strawberries, dairy cream, some meringue, strawberry sorbet.

That's it.

MICHAEL: All this talk about food.

And I just wanted you to know that I'm kind of starving.

Is there any chance that I could taste something that you have?

AIDAN: Well, I actually have a nice sauce on the go there.

MICHAEL: Oh, lovely.

AIDAN: And you can just taste a little bit of that.

It's-it's- it's made from the- the- braising liquid of the pork.

And then we reduce that down with some lovely fresh Irish dairy cream, shallots, and then we add a truffle purée into it, and that's gonna be with the pork cheeks.

MICHAEL: Speaking of decadent.

AIDAN: So- so there you go.

You can taste that.

MICHAEL: All right.

AIDAN: It's- it's- it's almost, you know, I think there's always this taste of more of that sauce, you have one spoon and you just want more.

Yeah, you got the idea.

MICHAEL: Oh my God.

That is gorgeous.

AIDAN: It's delish.

♪ MICHAEL: Beneath the Karst landscape of The Burren, an environment defined by water carving away its surface limestone, a similar process is taking place underground beneath the Aillwee, Irish for Yellow Cliff Mountain which sits above us.

Over the millennia, flowing water has sculpted a kilometer of passages and caverns a world unto itself, totally removed from the blooming mountain above.

Just be sure to mind your head.

(water trickling) Nuala, we're here in the depths of the Burren in the heart of County Clare and I can't quite believe that I am in Aillwee Caves.

It's the first time in about 20 years.

But what I've just found out is that this is a family business.

NUALA: Aillwee Caves is a privately run, family-run business, and it always has been since we opened to the public back in 1976.

MICHAEL: It's all very well opening a cave but there's a lot of work needed to preserve what's inside it.

NUALA: That's right.

MICHAEL: Not only the rockery around us.

NUALA: That's right.

MICHAEL: But also the animals that live here.

NUALA: That's right, yeah.

Absolutely.

No, no, we really do see ourselves, yes, we invite people to come underground with us and see the Burren landscape.

I mean, you'll spend time overground and there's nothing quite as unique as the Burren region here in North Clare.

When you come underground, you know, there's different colors, there's different textures, there's different sounds all that sort of thing.

And yeah, we are the custodians is what we kind of look at it.

MICHAEL: I know you have some animals living right here, actually just next door to us here.

NUALA: That's right.

That's right.

MICHAEL: And I'm delighted to hear that you share your cave with them.

NUALA: We do.

We do.

We share the cave with them, and people go, "Oh geezus bat?

What might that be?"

They're the lesser horseshoe bat, yes absolutely.

A species of bat that is on the protected list, but what's great about it is- is that our species of bat is on the rise.

And in 2018 we had about 70, last year we counted 110.

You know, the cave itself, it's a dried-up riverbed essentially is what it is and that's- and that's what we're following along the cave tour.

MICHAEL: Will we go have a look?

NUALA: I'd love to bring you.

Absolutely, Michael.

Let's go.

MICHAEL: Let's go.

♪ (water trickling) So Nuala, this is the biggest part of the cave that I can see, right?

NUALA: Most certainly.

This cavern is called the Highway, would you believe?

MICHAEL: Oh!

NUALA: And it's one of my favorite parts of the cave.

MICHAEL: You know what I really noticed is whatever about the sound, the acoustics, it might- it might be the right place to do a bit of a song with it.

NUALA: Yeah, Michael, I think you should give it a go.

Absolutely.

Please do.

MICHAEL: You know, I am a singer.

NUALA: I know that.

(both laughing) ♪ My young love said to me ♪ ♪ My mother won't mind ♪ And my father won't slight you ♪ ♪ For your lack of kind ♪ She stepped away from me ♪ ♪ And this she did say ♪ It will not be long, love ♪ ♪ Until our wedding day ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: In the hugely varied topography of Ireland, you'll find not only massive cave complexes but also natural wells and springs.

Us Irish, being in truth a deeply spiritual people, have long dedicated many of these wells to patron saints.

None can compare however to the one located between Liscannor and the Cliffs of Moher and dedicated to St. Brigid.

Her importance as one of Ireland's patron saints is owed to the earlier Celtic goddess, tales of whom almost certainly influenced the biography of the historical Brigid.

She embodies for many modern Irish womanhood, so much so that as of 2023, St. Brigid's feast day is now a national holiday.

Thousands come here every year to ask for healing for themselves or for their loved ones.

All around are touching tributes, rosaries and ribbons, placed here by those seeking comfort.

♪ ♪ James, now if I'm right, you are a Killaloe man, are you?

JAMES: I am indeed, yeah.

My father started a grocery store here in the town.

MICHAEL: But you were the boat man and you've been doing it a while.

JAMES: Yeah, we started back in 1991.

We've went from a four-person boat to a 12 to a 50 and now we're at an 80.

MICHAEL: So tell me, what- what do you see on a- on a boat cruise around Killaloe?

JAMES: Yeah, well Killaloe is an ancient town.

It's- it's a really, really old town.

We have a bronze-age burial in the site here.

We pass by a ring fort that's a thousand years old.

Our cathedral is 800 years old.

Mostly what you have here is pristine Irish landscape.

The Forty Shades of Green are here all year round and that's why our visitors love our cruise.

MICHAEL: The real appeal to this part of Clare, down the eastern side of it, is that it's completely different to the coast.

You come to the Hidden Heartlands, to this beautiful lake just outside Killaloe, for rest and respite and take in the peace.

♪ Killaloe also has a very important place in Ireland's history.

Lying on the River Shannon, it was the base for Brian Boru, the High King of Ireland from 1002, who famously kicked out the Vikings until his own untimely death, fighting the army of Leinster at the Battle of Clontarf in 1014.

During that decade however, Killaloe was effectively the capital of all Ireland.

Not bad for a little town in Munster.

♪ So Deborah, the mayor of this town, someone very important, just described you as the Queen of Killaloe.

Are you indeed the Queen of Killaloe?

DEBORAH: No, I'm not the Queen of Killaloe, Michael, no, sorry.

MICHAEL: Well, I do- I do know that you know a lot about the whole town and in particular this magnificent building that we're in.

Could you tell me exactly where we are?

DEBORAH: Okay.

We're in St. Flannan's Cathedral, Killaloe's 13th- century church.

MICHAEL: Aside from the church itself, the ground and this particular area was a very, very important area for Ireland at a certain time.

DEBORAH: Oh, it was.

Well, Brian Boru was the king here, so- and he was unfortunately killed in the Battle of Clontarf in 1014.

He is credited with running the Vikings out of Ireland.

But his- his descendants became Scando-Hibernian.

They became friends with the Norse people.

And so there was good relations, intermarrying, et cetera.

MICHAEL: That's why you have all the redheads going around Ireland to this day.

DEBORAH: Apparently, yes, yes, yes exactly.

Yeah.

MICHAEL: The church is used... DEBORAH: Every week, twice a week on Sundays and on Tuesdays.

And were also- it's also used as a concert venue.

And ar- we have art exhibitions in the nave out there.

MICHAEL: Hold on a minute.

Did Deborah just say St. Flannan's gets used as a concert venue?

Well, then I can't think of a better place to chat with music legend Tommy Hayes.

Tommy, I can't believe that I am here.

It's not often that I get to use the word legend, and indeed- TOMMY: Old.

MICHAEL: Old.

(Tommy laughing) TOMMY: That's what I think people say- MICHAEL: That's another word for legend.

I'll grant you that.

But in this case, I know I'm right.

You are a legend, a legendary player of this amazing instrument.

And our paths nearly crossed once.

You started in the original Riverdance, the reason that you were in the original Riverdance is because you are the original and the best.

Actually, that's what- this is a good place to start.

Tell me about the- the bones, the bare bones of this instrument.

TOMMY: Okay.

So it's a frame drum.

The name of it is bodhrán which translates as deaf person.

MICHAEL: Yes.

TOMMY: Okay?

It's a frame drum.

So the- the classical definition of a frame drum is that the diameter of the skin is larger than the body of the drum, okay?

MICHAEL: Ah.

What's it made of?

TOMMY: This is- this is solid piece of wood and goat skin.

MICHAEL: Goat skin.

Is it always goat skin?

TOMMY: No.

This thing is- this one down here is kangaroo skin.

MICHAEL: Oh, so that's your international version.

I take it.

TOMMY: Absolutely, absolutely.

MICHAEL: Is the kangaroo more rhythmic than the goat?

(Tommy laughing) All right.

Well, I'd love you to give us a quick bash on the bodhrán, first of all, to give a taste of what it's all about.

TOMMY: Okay, okay.

So I suppose the unusual thing about it is it's a drum that's played with a single stick and you play both sides of the stick.

♪ MICHAEL: Now, there's a pitch to it.

That was almost a scale.

TOMMY: Yes, yes.

MICHAEL: How does that happen?

How do you make that?

TOMMY: With my left hand.

MICHAEL: Oh, with tension?

TOMMY: With tension, so squeezing the skin.

MICHAEL: Are you able to adjust it for- TOMMY: Yes.

MICHAEL: You know, for different types of music?

TOMMY: Yeah, it's a- it's a- it's a tunable drum, okay?

MICHAEL: Oh, very good.

TOMMY: Originally, that would not have been tunable, but in the last 20-odd years, more and more professional drums are now tunable.

MICHAEL: Oh, very good.

TOMMY: So with Irish music, D and G is kind of standard so I usually tune it to A. MICHAEL: Yes.

TOMMY: So it- so it stays around that pitch, you know.

I mean, they're never perfect.

It's relative.

MICHAEL: Right.

TOMMY: But at the same time.

Yeah, yeah.

And then depends on who you're playing with.

I've played with a lot of jazz outfits over the years.

That's a different story, but then I would have a lot more- I'd have a lot more drums with me so I could switch between keys.

MICHAEL: Oh, very good.

TOMMY: Yeah.

MICHAEL: I'd love you to- to show me some of your virtuoso stuff now.

Be it on the kangaroo or the goat, I don't care as long as you throw us a few beats.

TOMMY: Okay.

♪ Okay, I'll play it.

I'll play something in six.

MICHAEL: Sure.

♪ ♪ ♪ Tommy Hayes, you are truly a legend.

(Tommy laughing) TOMMY: Thank you.

MICHAEL: Thanks for joining me on my travels around County Clare.

I'm Michael Londra and I hope to see you next time on Ireland with Michael.

But for now, sláinte.

Cheers.

ANNOUNCER: Want to continue your travels to Ireland?

Your choice of Ireland with Michael DVD Season One, Two, or Three, with bonus concert footage, is available for $30.

Ireland with Michael: A Musical Journey CD, with songs from Michael and his guest artists, is available for $20.

Ireland with Michael Companion Travel Guide, featuring places to visit, as seen in all seasons, is also available for $30.

This offer is made by Wexford House.

Shipping and handling is not included.

MICHAEL: To learn more about everything you've seen in this episode, go to IrelandWithMichael.com.

ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael was made possible by... ♪ ANNOUNCER: Whether traveling to Ireland for the first time, or just longing to return, there's plenty more information available at Ireland.com.

♪ ANNOUNCER: CIE Tours, sharing the magic of Ireland for 90 years.

♪ ANNOUNCER: Aer Lingus has been bringing people home since 1936.

If you are thinking about Ireland, Aer Lingus is ready when you are to take you home.

MICHAEL: OK, put your hands up in the air!

Come on, let's get a-waving.

♪ In my heart its rightful queen ♪ ♪ Ever loving, ever tender ♪ MICHAEL: That's it.

♪ Ever true ♪ Like the Sun your smile has shone ♪ MICHAEL: Go on, Wexford.

♪ Gladdening all it glowed upon ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: Hello and welcome to Ireland with Michael.

I'm Michael Londra, and in this show I get to tell you everything I love about my home country, the best way I know how, through music.

I've just flown into Shannon Airport, gateway to the west of Ireland.

Instead of touching down in Dublin, this historic airport gives you direct access to the iconic scenery along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Today, we'll be exploring everything you can do on day one in County Clare.

It's all classic Ireland.

Deeply spiritual sites, which connect both to our patron saints and ancient goddesses.

A fascinating cave system that'll take you to another world.

And of course, amazing food that exemplifies Irish culinary tradition.

It's all available to you when you take Clare by Air.

♪ ♪ ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael is made possible by... ♪ ANNOUNCER: Whether traveling to Ireland for the first time, or just longing to return, there's plenty more information available at Ireland.com.

♪ ANNOUNCER: CIE Tours, sharing the magic of Ireland for 90 years.

♪ ANNOUNCER: Aer Lingus has been bringing people home since 1936.

If you are thinking about Ireland, Aer Lingus is ready when you are to take you home.

♪ MICHAEL: This is the historic Shannon Airport in a location originally scouted by aviation legend Charles Lindbergh.

In the 80 years since, it's constantly reinvented itself in an effort to make it the premier arrival point to Ireland, a reputation cemented by its many celebrity passengers.

I'm here to talk to Niall Kearns, director of the airport.

Niall, how are you?

I am so happy to be back here in Shannon Airport.

It's about 20 years since I've been here and it's a different place.

Tell me about Shannon Airport and the services it provides us to North America.

NIALL: Well, we're the only airport on the west coast of Ireland who have direct daily transatlantic services into the United States.

So we have flights into New York, Boston and Chicago on a daily basis.

MICHAEL: What's the benefit of- of using Shannon as opposed to Dublin Airport?

NIALL: When you fly into Shannon, we have- we pride ourselves on making it easy for our passengers and there's a number of ways that we try and do that.

So, for example, Shannon was the first airport outside of the Americas to have US pre-clearance.

So that means if you're a US passenger and you're flying back to the United States from Shannon, you clear US immigration here in Shannon and that saves you a lot of time on the far side.

MICHAEL: There's one really interesting fact about Shannon and its connection to duty-free shopping.

NIALL: Absolutely.

Shan- the duty free was actually invented here in Shannon Airport in this building in 1947.

MICHAEL: So if I fly in from New York, and I want to connect to the rest of the Europe, have- have I options?

NIALL: Absolutely.

Well, we've got 35 different routes to 11 countries all around Europe, so we can cater to wherever you need to go.

MICHAEL: And do a little bit of duty-free shopping while you're here?

NIALL: Absolutely, in the world's first duty free.

MICHAEL: I travel all the time and security, let's face it, it's a bit of a nightmare in airports around the world but I know that Shannon has a unique feature connected to security.

NIALL: Well, we really do.

We've upgraded all of our security screening equipment to the latest and greatest technology in the last number of years, and that has a huge benefit for passengers going through.

They can leave all of their liquids and gels in the bag they don't need to take them out.

And as well, they can leave all their electronics, their iPads, phones, tablets inside in the bag.

And in addition to that, when you're flying to the United States, we've combined our airport and TSA security checkpoints so you only have one security checkpoint to go through.

Again, we're trying to make it easy here in Shannon Airport for our passengers.

MICHAEL: Now, I know over the years you've had pretty important visitors, and there's a US connection to this airport in particular.

Can you tell us a little bit more about that?

NIALL: There absolutely is because Shannon is the most westerly airport in- in Europe.

And so as a result of that, we were a natural stopping point across the Atlantic for anybody flying from the United States.

So we would've had a lot of movie stars, Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, famous celebrities and even royalty.

King Charles, when he was Prince, flew into Shannon.

And we've had almost every US president since JFK here in Shannon Airport.

MICHAEL: It seems like every single VIP that's come through here gets their photograph on this wall.

President Kennedy, President Obama, I'm wondering where they're gonna hang my photograph.

Anyone?

♪ Steal away, steal away ♪ Steal away to Jesus Derek, I can't believe that I am right in the heart of Clare.

In Shannon Airport of all places talking to one of the leading gospel groups in Ireland, how in the name of God did you end up being a gospel choir in the middle of the west of Ireland?

DEREK: It happened about 14 years ago.

We went to a workshop up in Dublin and we'd never felt anything like it because we're used to musical theater and performing in shows.

But when you sang what they were teaching us, it came out of your chest as opposed to your throat or your diaphragm.

MICHAEL: Right.

DEREK: It was pure energy.

And what it got us into was the meaning of the songs and delivering the songs.

'Cause sometimes difference between a chamber choir and a gospel choir is, you know, that you feel the energy and it supports the message of the song.

MICHAEL: When I think of choirs in Ireland, I think of those church choirs that we all kinda grew up with.

So it's a huge leap, a leap of faith really to be able to sing in choirs where it's all very fixed and small, singing very ordered Christian music to something that involves raising your hands.

God forbid you should dance and have a great time, but that's what I love about you.

♪ Steal away, steal away home ♪ ♪ I ain't got long to stay here ♪ ♪ Green trees are bending ♪ Poor sinners stand a-trembling ♪ ♪ The trumpet sound within my soul ♪ ♪ I ain't got long to stay here ♪ MICHAEL: What do you do now?

Do you perform locally or do you tour?

Do you record?

DEREK: We started off singing in- in church originally, and Jesus, they didn't know what to do with us, you know, because... MICHAEL: Now you're- Now you're playing it in- in rock festivals.

DEREK: Yeah.

MICHAEL: And pop festivals.

DEREK: And then we were asked...

There's a friend, he's become a friend, but Paddy Casey would be a well-known singer songwriter.

Even in the States, he would've been on David Letterman.

MICHAEL: Yeah, we know him.

DEREK: And he asked us to sing on a couple of songs on The Secret Of- Secret Life Of, and we went and did three songs on that.

♪ Steal away, steal away ♪ Steal away to Jesus ♪ Steal away, steal away, steal away ♪ ♪ Steal away, steal away, steal away ♪ ♪ Steal away to Jesus, yeah, yeah ♪ MICHAEL: Can I just ask, how does being Irish make you a better gospel singer, do you think?

DEREK: Um, storytelling probably.

We're all storytellers and we like listening to stories and we like telling stories.

And I think the songs that we choose to do have a message behind it.

We don't kind of, we wouldn't pick any chart song.

It has to have something positive and be inspiring.

♪ Steal away home ♪ I ain't got long to stay here ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: I am in the heart of the peaceful countryside of County Clare.

And you expect to find the occasional gorgeous little pub, but what you don't expect is what Kate Sweeney and Aidan McGrath have opened here in Lisdoonvarna.

Not only a pub, but a Michelin-star pub.

Let's go in and find out.

So, Aidan, how in the name of God does a Michelin-star chef end up in a beautiful village here in the middle of County Clare?

AIDAN: Um, we had a restaurant in Bunratty, and after that we thought we'd like to get something with rooms.

This came up.

My call- always felt like doing something in a pub and... MICHAEL: It's the center of our business and social life.

AIDAN: It was our social life, you know, and I thought then, you know, perhaps if I- you know, our restaurant before was a little bit stuffy and I wanted to have a more relaxed environment for- for serving food.

Probably might help business in a way, and- and maybe attract a wider audience.

MICHAEL: And obviously it worked.

AIDAN: Well, we changed in August of 2009, we stopped dead in our tracks for two days, change- made a change, and we got a visit from the Red Guide, the Michelin Guide in September of that year.

And we just thought it was a normal guide.

We're going get into the guide.

That's great.

Anyway, and lo and behold, we got a Bib Gourmand when it was published in January 2010.

And then in '17 we got a Michelin star which was... MICHAEL: Wow.

AIDAN: The top- the top award.

MICHAEL: So, what I want to know is, obviously you're classically trained in the art of French cooking.

How do you apply that to Irish cuisine?

AIDAN: Well, the- the- the techniques are French and the basics are French, and- and the fundamentals are French, but, you know, Ireland by and large has got very good pasture land, very good cattle, very good sheep, very good game in the winter time.

And we have an abundance of fish in the sea, so, you know, ideally the west coast is a great place to cook.

MICHAEL: What are you cooking today?

AIDAN: I've got different things on the menu tonight.

I've got ham hock terrine, I've got a lobster royale, which is lobster from the local fishermen here.

He just fishes off Doolin, Michael, seaweed butter, the greenhouse courgette and broad beans, pork cheeks, field mushrooms, fresh garden peas, puff of velouté, a ribeye steak, crushed celeriac, hand cut chips with sauce béarnaise, strawberries, dairy cream, some meringue, strawberry sorbet.

That's it.

MICHAEL: All this talk about food.

And I just wanted you to know that I'm kind of starving.

Is there any chance that I could taste something that you have?

AIDAN: Well, I actually have a nice sauce on the go there.

MICHAEL: Oh, lovely.

AIDAN: And you can just taste a little bit of that.

It's-it's- it's made from the- the- braising liquid of the pork.

And then we reduce that down with some lovely fresh Irish dairy cream, shallots, and then we add a truffle purée into it, and that's gonna be with the pork cheeks.

MICHAEL: Speaking of decadent.

AIDAN: So- so there you go.

You can taste that.

MICHAEL: All right.

AIDAN: It's- it's- it's almost, you know, I think there's always this taste of more of that sauce, you have one spoon and you just want more.

Yeah, you got the idea.

MICHAEL: Oh my God.

That is gorgeous.

AIDAN: It's delish.

♪ MICHAEL: Beneath the Karst landscape of The Burren, an environment defined by water carving away its surface limestone, a similar process is taking place underground beneath the Aillwee, Irish for Yellow Cliff Mountain which sits above us.

Over the millennia, flowing water has sculpted a kilometer of passages and caverns a world unto itself, totally removed from the blooming mountain above.

Just be sure to mind your head.

(water trickling) Nuala, we're here in the depths of the Burren in the heart of County Clare and I can't quite believe that I am in Aillwee Caves.

It's the first time in about 20 years.

But what I've just found out is that this is a family business.

NUALA: Aillwee Caves is a privately run, family-run business, and it always has been since we opened to the public back in 1976.

MICHAEL: It's all very well opening a cave but there's a lot of work needed to preserve what's inside it.

NUALA: That's right.

MICHAEL: Not only the rockery around us.

NUALA: That's right.

MICHAEL: But also the animals that live here.

NUALA: That's right, yeah.

Absolutely.

No, no, we really do see ourselves, yes, we invite people to come underground with us and see the Burren landscape.

I mean, you'll spend time overground and there's nothing quite as unique as the Burren region here in North Clare.

When you come underground, you know, there's different colors, there's different textures, there's different sounds all that sort of thing.

And yeah, we are the custodians is what we kind of look at it.

MICHAEL: I know you have some animals living right here, actually just next door to us here.

NUALA: That's right.

That's right.

MICHAEL: And I'm delighted to hear that you share your cave with them.

NUALA: We do.

We do.

We share the cave with them, and people go, "Oh geezus bat?

What might that be?"

They're the lesser horseshoe bat, yes absolutely.

A species of bat that is on the protected list, but what's great about it is- is that our species of bat is on the rise.

And in 2018 we had about 70, last year we counted 110.

You know, the cave itself, it's a dried-up riverbed essentially is what it is and that's- and that's what we're following along the cave tour.

MICHAEL: Will we go have a look?

NUALA: I'd love to bring you.

Absolutely, Michael.

Let's go.

MICHAEL: Let's go.

♪ (water trickling) So Nuala, this is the biggest part of the cave that I can see, right?

NUALA: Most certainly.

This cavern is called the Highway, would you believe?

MICHAEL: Oh!

NUALA: And it's one of my favorite parts of the cave.

MICHAEL: You know what I really noticed is whatever about the sound, the acoustics, it might- it might be the right place to do a bit of a song with it.

NUALA: Yeah, Michael, I think you should give it a go.

Absolutely.

Please do.

MICHAEL: You know, I am a singer.

NUALA: I know that.

(both laughing) ♪ My young love said to me ♪ ♪ My mother won't mind ♪ And my father won't slight you ♪ ♪ For your lack of kind ♪ She stepped away from me ♪ ♪ And this she did say ♪ It will not be long, love ♪ ♪ Until our wedding day ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: In the hugely varied topography of Ireland, you'll find not only massive cave complexes but also natural wells and springs.

Us Irish, being in truth a deeply spiritual people, have long dedicated many of these wells to patron saints.

None can compare however to the one located between Liscannor and the Cliffs of Moher and dedicated to St. Brigid.

Her importance as one of Ireland's patron saints is owed to the earlier Celtic goddess, tales of whom almost certainly influenced the biography of the historical Brigid.

She embodies for many modern Irish womanhood, so much so that as of 2023, St. Brigid's feast day is now a national holiday.

Thousands come here every year to ask for healing for themselves or for their loved ones.

All around are touching tributes, rosaries and ribbons, placed here by those seeking comfort.

♪ ♪ James, now if I'm right, you are a Killaloe man, are you?

JAMES: I am indeed, yeah.

My father started a grocery store here in the town.

MICHAEL: But you were the boat man and you've been doing it a while.

JAMES: Yeah, we started back in 1991.

We've went from a four-person boat to a 12 to a 50 and now we're at an 80.

MICHAEL: So tell me, what- what do you see on a- on a boat cruise around Killaloe?

JAMES: Yeah, well Killaloe is an ancient town.

It's- it's a really, really old town.

We have a bronze-age burial in the site here.

We pass by a ring fort that's a thousand years old.

Our cathedral is 800 years old.

Mostly what you have here is pristine Irish landscape.

The Forty Shades of Green are here all year round and that's why our visitors love our cruise.

MICHAEL: The real appeal to this part of Clare, down the eastern side of it, is that it's completely different to the coast.

You come to the Hidden Heartlands, to this beautiful lake just outside Killaloe, for rest and respite and take in the peace.

♪ Killaloe also has a very important place in Ireland's history.

Lying on the River Shannon, it was the base for Brian Boru, the High King of Ireland from 1002, who famously kicked out the Vikings until his own untimely death, fighting the army of Leinster at the Battle of Clontarf in 1014.

During that decade however, Killaloe was effectively the capital of all Ireland.

Not bad for a little town in Munster.

♪ So Deborah, the mayor of this town, someone very important, just described you as the Queen of Killaloe.

Are you indeed the Queen of Killaloe?

DEBORAH: No, I'm not the Queen of Killaloe, Michael, no, sorry.

MICHAEL: Well, I do- I do know that you know a lot about the whole town and in particular this magnificent building that we're in.

Could you tell me exactly where we are?

DEBORAH: Okay.

We're in St. Flannan's Cathedral, Killaloe's 13th- century church.

MICHAEL: Aside from the church itself, the ground and this particular area was a very, very important area for Ireland at a certain time.

DEBORAH: Oh, it was.

Well, Brian Boru was the king here, so- and he was unfortunately killed in the Battle of Clontarf in 1014.

He is credited with running the Vikings out of Ireland.

But his- his descendants became Scando-Hibernian.

They became friends with the Norse people.

And so there was good relations, intermarrying, et cetera.

MICHAEL: That's why you have all the redheads going around Ireland to this day.

DEBORAH: Apparently, yes, yes, yes exactly.

Yeah.

MICHAEL: The church is used... DEBORAH: Every week, twice a week on Sundays and on Tuesdays.

And were also- it's also used as a concert venue.

And ar- we have art exhibitions in the nave out there.

MICHAEL: Hold on a minute.

Did Deborah just say St. Flannan's gets used as a concert venue?

Well, then I can't think of a better place to chat with music legend Tommy Hayes.

Tommy, I can't believe that I am here.

It's not often that I get to use the word legend, and indeed- TOMMY: Old.

MICHAEL: Old.

(Tommy laughing) TOMMY: That's what I think people say- MICHAEL: That's another word for legend.

I'll grant you that.

But in this case, I know I'm right.

You are a legend, a legendary player of this amazing instrument.

And our paths nearly crossed once.

You started in the original Riverdance, the reason that you were in the original Riverdance is because you are the original and the best.

Actually, that's what- this is a good place to start.

Tell me about the- the bones, the bare bones of this instrument.

TOMMY: Okay.

So it's a frame drum.

The name of it is bodhrán which translates as deaf person.

MICHAEL: Yes.

TOMMY: Okay?

It's a frame drum.

So the- the classical definition of a frame drum is that the diameter of the skin is larger than the body of the drum, okay?

MICHAEL: Ah.

What's it made of?

TOMMY: This is- this is solid piece of wood and goat skin.

MICHAEL: Goat skin.

Is it always goat skin?

TOMMY: No.

This thing is- this one down here is kangaroo skin.

MICHAEL: Oh, so that's your international version.

I take it.

TOMMY: Absolutely, absolutely.

MICHAEL: Is the kangaroo more rhythmic than the goat?

(Tommy laughing) All right.

Well, I'd love you to give us a quick bash on the bodhrán, first of all, to give a taste of what it's all about.

TOMMY: Okay, okay.

So I suppose the unusual thing about it is it's a drum that's played with a single stick and you play both sides of the stick.

♪ MICHAEL: Now, there's a pitch to it.

That was almost a scale.

TOMMY: Yes, yes.

MICHAEL: How does that happen?

How do you make that?

TOMMY: With my left hand.

MICHAEL: Oh, with tension?

TOMMY: With tension, so squeezing the skin.

MICHAEL: Are you able to adjust it for- TOMMY: Yes.

MICHAEL: You know, for different types of music?

TOMMY: Yeah, it's a- it's a- it's a tunable drum, okay?

MICHAEL: Oh, very good.

TOMMY: Originally, that would not have been tunable, but in the last 20-odd years, more and more professional drums are now tunable.

MICHAEL: Oh, very good.

TOMMY: So with Irish music, D and G is kind of standard so I usually tune it to A. MICHAEL: Yes.

TOMMY: So it- so it stays around that pitch, you know.

I mean, they're never perfect.

It's relative.

MICHAEL: Right.

TOMMY: But at the same time.

Yeah, yeah.

And then depends on who you're playing with.

I've played with a lot of jazz outfits over the years.

That's a different story, but then I would have a lot more- I'd have a lot more drums with me so I could switch between keys.

MICHAEL: Oh, very good.

TOMMY: Yeah.

MICHAEL: I'd love you to- to show me some of your virtuoso stuff now.

Be it on the kangaroo or the goat, I don't care as long as you throw us a few beats.

TOMMY: Okay.

♪ Okay, I'll play it.

I'll play something in six.

MICHAEL: Sure.

♪ ♪ ♪ Tommy Hayes, you are truly a legend.

(Tommy laughing) TOMMY: Thank you.

MICHAEL: Thanks for joining me on my travels around County Clare.

I'm Michael Londra and I hope to see you next time on Ireland with Michael.

But for now, sláinte.

Cheers.

ANNOUNCER: Want to continue your travels to Ireland?

Your choice of Ireland with Michael DVD Season One, Two, or Three, with bonus concert footage, is available for $30.

Ireland with Michael: A Musical Journey CD, with songs from Michael and his guest artists, is available for $20.

Ireland with Michael Companion Travel Guide, featuring places to visit, as seen in all seasons, is also available for $30.

This offer is made by Wexford House.

Shipping and handling is not included.

MICHAEL: To learn more about everything you've seen in this episode, go to IrelandWithMichael.com.

ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael was made possible by... ♪ ANNOUNCER: Whether traveling to Ireland for the first time, or just longing to return, there's plenty more information available at Ireland.com.

♪ ANNOUNCER: CIE Tours, sharing the magic of Ireland for 90 years.

♪ ANNOUNCER: Aer Lingus has been bringing people home since 1936.

If you are thinking about Ireland, Aer Lingus is ready when you are to take you home.

MICHAEL: OK, put your hands up in the air!

Come on, let's get a-waving.

♪ In my heart its rightful queen ♪ ♪ Ever loving, ever tender ♪ MICHAEL: That's it.

♪ Ever true ♪ Like the Sun your smile has shone ♪ MICHAEL: Go on, Wexford.

♪ Gladdening all it glowed upon ♪ ♪