Southern Ethiopia – Tribal Lands and Primeval People
1/26/2022 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
This Travelscope adventure offers a look at prehistoric cultures in transition.
Joseph’s adventures along the shores of Lake Abaya and Chamo, two of the lakes of the 2,400 mile Rift Valley where modern man is said to have originated. During his stay in the valley, he has close encounters with the Konso, Hamer and Mursi people where he shares in their ancient customs and ceremonies. This Travelscope adventure offers an unforgettable look at prehistoric cultures in transition.
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Joseph Rosendo’s Travelscope is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television
Southern Ethiopia – Tribal Lands and Primeval People
1/26/2022 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Joseph’s adventures along the shores of Lake Abaya and Chamo, two of the lakes of the 2,400 mile Rift Valley where modern man is said to have originated. During his stay in the valley, he has close encounters with the Konso, Hamer and Mursi people where he shares in their ancient customs and ceremonies. This Travelscope adventure offers an unforgettable look at prehistoric cultures in transition.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship>> WELCOME TO "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVEL SCOPE," WHERE YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT.
>> TODAY I JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA'S SOUTHERN REGION FOR CLOSE ENCOUNTERS WITH THE TRIBAL PEOPLE OF THE OMO VALLEY.
>> "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVEL SCOPE" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY VOLVO'S OVERSEAS DELIVERY PROGRAM, WHERE BUYERS CAN PICK UP A NEW VOLVO IN SWEDEN, USE IT IN EUROPE, AND THEN HAVE IT JOIN THEM AT HOME.
NO-JET-LAG, JET LAG PREVENTION.
AUBERGE RESORTS, DISTINCTIVE COLLECTION OF LUXURY RESORTS, RESIDENCES, AND SPAS.
[CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY FRIENDS OF NCI] >> I'VE BEEN TO AFRICA MANY TIMES, AND ONE OF THE THINGS I LOVE MOST ABOUT IT IS EARLY MORNING.
IT DOESN'T LAST VERY LONG, BUT IT IS DRAMATIC.
AND EVERY PART OF AFRICA I'VE BEEN IN HAS BEEN COMPLETELY DIFFERENT, AND HERE IN SOUTHERN ETHIOPIA, IT'S DIFFERENT AGAIN.
WHILE IN SOUTHERN AFRICA IT MIGHT BE ABOUT THE ANIMALS AND THE WILDNESS.
HERE IN ETHIOPIA, A COUNTRY THAT HAS BEEN THE SITE OF MAJOR CIVILIZATIONS AND EMPIRES FOR THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS OF YEARS, IT'S MORE ABOUT PEOPLE.
AND WE HEAR IT THIS MORNING.
WE HEAR THE TOWN NEARBY WAKING UP.
RIGHT NOW WE'RE ON THE EDGE, THE TRANSITION BETWEEN CIVILIZATION AND PEOPLE AND THE NATURAL AREA BEFORE US, THE GREAT RIFT LAKES.
MORNING IN AFRICA: IT'S DIFFERENT HERE, BUT EQUALLY AS BEAUTIFUL.
300 MILES SOUTH OF THE CAPITAL OF ADDIS ABABA, ARBA MINCH IS THE GATEWAY TO EXPERIENCES WITH THE PEOPLE OF ETHIOPIA'S SOUTHERN REGION.
IT'S NOT FAR FROM THE CITY TO OUR FIRST CULTURAL ENCOUNTER.
WELL, AS OUR FIRST INTRODUCTION TO THE ETHNIC TRIBES OF SOUTHERN ETHIOPIA, THIS IS A WONDERFUL WELCOME.
THE DORZE PEOPLE.
THE LIVE HIGH, AT ALMOST 9,000 FEET.
THEY'RE A CHRISTIAN SOCIETY, AND THESE LADIES JUST CAME FROM A SAINT'S CELEBRATION THAT HAS BEEN TAKING PLACE IN THE CHURCH RIGHT BEHIND US.
IT'S REALLY NICE TO SEE SO MANY SMILING FACES.
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> [CHANTING] >> AN OMOTIC PEOPLE, THE MOUNTAIN-DWELLING DORZE LIVE IN A COOPERATIVE WHICH OPENS ITS DOORS TO VISITORS INTERESTED IN LEARNING ABOUT THEIR TRADITIONAL WAY OF LIFE.
THIS IS PART OF THE VILLAGE.
>> YES, PART OF THE VILLAGE, AND THIS HOUSE YOU'RE ABOUT TO SEE HERE ARE THE TRIBE HOUSES WHICH THEY MAKE THEM FROM BAMBOO TREES AFTER THE SHAPE OF AN ELEPHANT.
>> OH!
DO A WHOLE FAMILY LIVE IN ONE OF THESE HOMES?
>> YES, THEY DO, AND ALSO THEIR ANIMALS.
>> THEY BRING THE ANIMALS INTO THE HOUSE, THEY BECOME PART OF OF THE HEATING SYSTEM.
SO SHE'S SCRAPING OFF THE PULP-- >> YES.
>> FROM THE STEM OF THE BANANA TREE.
>> SO THEN AFTER SHE MAKES THIS HERE, THEY'RE GOING TO MAKE THE BREAD FROM THIS.
>> SHE'S BASICALLY CUTTING UP AND MAKING ALMOST A FLOUR OUT OF IT.
>> JUST TO MAKE IT MORE SOFT AND MORE SMOOTH.
SHE'LL USE WATER--SHE PUT WATER, POUR INTO THIS--AND SO THAT WHEN IT GETS SMOOTH, SHE CAN MAKE THE BREAD FROM THE SHAPE THAT SHE WANTS.
>> NOTHING IS WASTED.
>> NOTHING IS WASTED.
>> THEY USE THE BANANA LEAF TO COOK IT IN.
>> YES.
>> THEY MAKE A KNIFE OUT OF THE BAMBOO.
>> YEAH.
SO HERE IS WHERE THEY MAKE THE BREAD.
>> UH-HUH.
>> WHERE THEY BAKE IT, JUST ON THE OPEN AIR.
>> OOH.
IT SMELLS QUITE NICE.
>> YEAH.
>> THE SMELL?
>> OH, YEAH.
>> IT HAS A VERY STRONG BANANA FLAVOR TO IT.
>> THEN AFTER SHE FINISH, WE'LL SERVE IT WITH PROBABLY THE HOTTEST SAUCE IN THE WORLD.
>> WHAT'S INTERESTING TO ME IS THAT THIS WAS NOT MADE USING THE FRUIT OF THE BANANA, IT'S MADE FROM THE STEM OF THE BANANA TREE.
IT'S NOT MADE BY THE FRUIT.
IT'S MADE BY THE-- >> FALSE BANANA TREE.
>> THE FALSE BANANA TREE?
>> YEAH.
IT'S A BANANA.
IT'S A...
THE FAMILY OF A BANANA, BUT IT ONCE PRODUCED BANANA.
>> OH!
OK.
SO THIS ISN'T EVEN A BANANA TREE.
>> THIS IS A FALSE BANANA TREE.
>> BUT THEY STILL GET FOOD OUT OF IT.
>> YES, THEY STILL GET FOOD OUT OF IT.
>> THIS IS A CULTURE WHERE YOU LEARN STEP BY STEP.
>> YES.
>> ALL YOUR PRECONCEIVED IDEAS ON WHAT SOMETHING SHOULD BE GET CHANGED AROUND A LITTLE BIT.
THIS LOOKS LIKE THAT HOT SAUCE THAT YOU WERE TALKING ABOUT.
>> YEAH.
THAT ONE'S THE HOT SAUCE, AND THIS ONE IS HONEY.
>> THIS IS HONEY?
>> YES, THAT'S HONEY.
WHEN YOU GET VERY HOT YOUR MOUTH-- I MEAN WHEN YOU GOT YOUR MOUTH ON FIRE, YOU CAN USE THE HONEY TO COOL DOWN.
>> LOOK AT THAT.
WELL, THAT-- >> AND IT'S ALSO-- [LAUGHS] >> I CAN SMELL IT.
OK, LET'S TRY IT.
HOW DO WE DO IT?
>> YOU TAKE A PIECE... >> OK.
I'M A LITTLE BIT-- >> AND YOU HAVE THE CHOICE TO USE THE HOT SAUCE... >> I SEE YOU USE JUST A LITTLE BIT.
OK, I'LL DO IT, TOO.
>> MMM.
>> THAT'S PRETTY HOT.
>> OH, YEAH.
>> YEAH.
I GOT THE HICCUPS.
>> MMM.
MMM.
YUMMY.
>> EVEN HE THINKS IT'S HOT.
>> THAT'S HOW LIFE IS.
NICE...AND HOT.
>> HOT AND SWEET.
>> HOT AND SWEET.
>> HOT AND SWEET.
WHAT DO THEY MAKE THIS FROM?
>> CHILI.
DIFFERENT KINDS OF CHILI AND SPICES.
>> HOW DO YOU SAY "GOOD" AGAIN?
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] I'M GONNA TAKE ANOTHER.
OH, MY GOSH.
>> HERE YOU HAVE THIS, UH-- >> SOLUTION.
>> YEAH, SOLUTION.
>> WHAT IS IT?
>> IT'S AN ALCOHOL THAT'S MADE FROM SORGHUM.
IT CAN GET SOMETIMES STRONG BECAUSE IT HELPS THE PEOPLE TO KEEP THEMSELVES WARM ON THIS HIGH ALTITUDE.
>> YEAH, IT KEEPS THEM WARM, AND IT CALMS DOWN THE BURNING FROM THE SPICE.
HOW DO YOU SAY "CHEERS" IN ETHIOPIAN LANGUAGE?
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] OH, YEAH.
NOW I DON'T FEEL THE SPICE ANYMORE.
I FEEL THIS BURNING DOWN MY THROAT.
[SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> AT THE DORZE VILLAGE, I SAMPLE SPECIALTIES UNIQUE TO THEIR CULTURE.
BACK IN TOWN, BIRUK AND I HEAD TO A LOCAL RESTAURANT FOR A MEAL THAT INCLUDES THE FOODS THAT ALL ETHIOPIANS KNOW AND LOVE.
SO THROUGHOUT ETHIOPIA, YOU COULD EXPECT TO HAVE THE BASE.
>> YES.
>> THE INJERA.
>> AND DIFFERENT SAUCES FROM THE DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE COUNTRY.
>> YOU HAVE LIKE A LITTLE TOUR OF ETHIOPIA-- >> YES.
>> DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU GETTING ON YOUR PLATE.
>> EXACTLY.
THIS IS MADE FROM LENTILS.
TAKE A PIECE OF INJERA.
>> OK. >> AND JUST PUT IT ON THE SAUCE THAT YOU WANT.
>> WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST?
>> THE VEGETARIAN SAUCE.
THEN USE 5 OF YOUR FINGERS... TO PULL IT UP.
>> MMM.
>> YUMMY, YEAH?
>> THAT IS YUMMY.
WOW.
AND YOU KNOW, THE INJERA, IT'S A LITTLE BIT... >> A SOUR TASTE.
>> I WOULDN'T SAY SOUR, BUT IT HAS THAT LITTLE--YEAH, A LITTLE SOUR TASTE.
IT ADDS PERFECTLY-- WITH THE DIFFERENT SAUCES.
>> YES.
>> WELL... [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] ARBA MINCH AND THE DORZE VILLAGE AND STEPPING STONES IN MY TRAVELS TO ETHIOPIA'S UNDEVELOPED SOUTH.
ON ROUTE 9, A PERIODICALLY PAVED HIGHWAY, WE DRIVE FOR 4 HOURS THROUGH THE HOT, DRY PASTURE AND AGRICULTURAL LANDS OF THE SOUTH OMO TRIBES.
CHILDREN STATION THEMSELVES ALONG THE ROAD AND DO THEIR BEST TO CATCH THE EYES AND COINS OF PASSING TOURISTS, WHILE STREAMS OF VISITORS MAKE THEIR WAY TO THE GAFFAR MARKET.
I FOLLOWED THEM TO WHERE THE PAVEMENT ENDS AND MY REAL JOURNEY BEGINS.
IT'S THURSDAY.
IT'S MARKET DAY FOR THE BANNA AND THE TSAMAI PEOPLE, AND HERE AT THE MARKET, THEY CAN BUY AND SELL SPICES AND CLOTHES AND CRAFTS AND ARTS.
BUT THE REASON THEY COME HERE IS NOT SO MUCH FOR THE BUYING AND SELLING--AND THEY'VE COME A LONG DISTANCE TO COME HERE TO THE MARKET PLACE--IT'S TO COME TOGETHER.
[SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> VERY NICE TO MEET YOU.
NOW, WHAT DO YOU HAVE HERE?
>> THIS IS FOR THE HANDLE-- >> UH-HUH.
>> THIS IS FROM THE BONE-- >> NOW, DID YOU MAKE THIS YOURSELF?
>> YEAH, YEAH.
>> IT'S MADE FROM COPPER?
>> YEAH, FROM COPPER.
>> NOW WHAT IS--I'M VERY INTERESTED IN THE GOURDS.
>> OK, THIS ONE'S FOR THE BANNA BAG, NOW, THIS ONE.
>> BANNA BAG?
>> THEY PUT FOOD AND THE MONEY-- >> OK. >> FOR THE FEMALES.
AND THEY CAN MAKE LIKE THIS.
>> DO YOU PUT WATER-- >> NO, NO, THIS IS NOT FOR WATER.
>> WHAT ARE THESE?
>> OK, THESE ARE FROM THE BANNA PEOPLES, THE HAMER AND THE TSAMAI, THE TRIBES.
THEY MAKES, THEY SIT IN, THEY SLEEP NOW LIKE THIS.
>> SO IT'S A PILLOW?
>> YEAH, YEAH.
>> SO YOU PUT YOUR HEAD ON?
>> YEAH, YEAH.
>> AND YOU ALSO SIT ON IT.
>> YEAH.
>> PRETTY INGENIOUS.
>> YEAH.
>> WHICH TRIBE IS THIS?
>> THIS IS FROM HAMER BANNA.
>> CAN YOU GIVE ME A DEAL ON IT?
>> YEAH.
>> 150?
>> OK, I GIVE IT TO YOU BECAUSE WE ARE FRIENDS NOW.
>> OK. >> OK. >> NOW, HOW DO I SAY "THANK YOU?"
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> WHAT?
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> EXCUSE ME.
CAN WE TAKE YOUR PICTURE?
OK?
UH, TWO?
TWO?
OK. GOOD?
OK.
SO THIS IS ONE OF THE BANNA LADIES THAT ARE HERE AT THE MARKET--AND LOOK HOW COLORFULLY DRESSED THEY ARE.
AND A LOT OF THE BEAD WORK IS HANDMADE.
THANK YOU.
THANK YOU.
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> OH, SHE WANTS HIM TO GET THAT OUT OF THE WAY.
SO WE'RE TALKING ABOUT GETTING THE SOUND, THE BOOM, OUT OF THE WAY.
OK. UM, THIS HAS BEEN A VERY...
IT'S BEEN A VERY DIFFICULT EXPERIENCE FOR US OVER THE COURSE OF THE LAST COUPLE HOURS THAT WE'VE BEEN HERE AT THE MARKET, BECAUSE AS OPPOSED TO OTHER PLACES WE HAVE BEEN IN THE WORLD, WHEN YOU GO TO THE MARKET YOU CAN HAVE EXCHANGES WITH PEOPLE, AND WE CAN NORMALLY FILM THEM BY PURCHASING SOME GOODS OR THEY'RE HAPPY TO TALK TO US.
AND IN FACT, THEY'RE QUITE PLEASED BY THE FACT THAT WE EVEN SHOW AN INTEREST IN THEM.
BUT THAT'S NOT THE SITUATION HERE.
THIS IS MUCH MORE CONNECTED TO THEM ALLOWING US TO SHOOT THEM IF WE PAY FOR THE PRIVILEGE.
SO JUST KEEP THAT IN MIND, AND IF YOU CAN KEEP THAT IN MIND AND NOT CAUSE TOO MUCH OF A--OF A CHAOS, LIKE WE'RE BEGINNING TO CAUSE NOW, THEN THIS IS A EXCELLENT--IT COULD BE A GREAT EXPERIENCE FOR US.
OK. >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> OH, SHE WANTS MORE.
ONE MORE?
OK?
THANK YOU.
THANK YOU.
AFTER YEARS OF TRAVEL, I'VE LEARNED THAT GOOD THINGS COME TO THOSE WHO PERSEVERE.
THIS PART OF THE MARKET, THEY'RE SELLING COFFEE BEAN SHELLS.
FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND IS THAT IN THIS PART OF THE VALLEY, THEY LIKE TO MAKE COFFEE OUT OF COFFEE BEAN SHELLS BECAUSE IT'S ACTUALLY STRONGER.
AND OF COURSE IT'S LESS EXPENSIVE.
ETHIOPIA, BY THE WAY, IS THE BIRTHPLACE OF COFFEE.
THE STORY GOES THAT THERE WAS A GOAT HERDER UP IN THE HILLS, AND HE NOTICED THAT WHEN HIS GOATS CHEWED ON A PARTICULAR BERRY, THEY GOT ALL FRISKY.
SO HE THOUGHT HE'D GIVE IT A TRY.
AND SURE ENOUGH, IT MADE HIM PRETTY EXCITED AND MADE HIM FEEL GOOD, TOO.
HOW YOU DOING?
>> [LAUGHS] >> LAUGHING AND SMILING AND BEING HAPPY.
SO THEN HE TOOK IT TO THE MONKS, AND HE GAVE IT TO THEM, AND THEY RIPPED IT AWAY FROM HIM BECAUSE HE WAS EATING THE DEVIL'S FRUIT, AND THEY THREW IT INTO THE FIRE, AND IT STARTED ROASTING.
AND THE SMELL OF THOSE COFFEE BEANS ROASTING MADE THE MONKS CHANGE THEIR MIND, AND WE'RE SO HAPPY THEY DID.
HERE.
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> AFTER OUR MIXED RECEPTION AT THE GAFFAR MARKET, I HEAD TO JINKA, A NEARBY BACK-COUNTRY TOWN NOTED AS THE JUMPING-OFF POINT FOR MARGO NATIONAL PARK AND VISITS TO THE MURSI TRIBE.
THE ESTIMATED 7,000 NOMADIC MURSI RAISE CROPS, GRAZE THEIR COWS, AND IN RECENT YEARS PROFIT FROM TOURISM.
PRIMARILY BECAUSE OF THE TRADITIONAL LIP PLATES WORN BY THE WOMEN, THE PEOPLE HAVE BECOME A TOURIST ATTRACTION.
LED BY THEIR KACHUMBAS, ETHIOPIAN GUIDES, CARLOADS OF INTERNATIONAL TOURISTS ARRIVE AT THE MURSI CAMPS EXPECTING AN UNTOUCHED WORLD AND INTERESTED IN CAPTURING IMAGES OF PRIMITIVE PEOPLE.
SEEKING AN INTERACTION THAT CONSISTS OF MORE THAN A PHOTO-OP, THOUGH MY GUIDE, I ASK THE MURSI CHIEF AND HIS REPRESENTATIVE ABOUT HIS PEOPLE.
THIS IS THE CHIEF?
>> YES, HE'S THE CHIEF.
>> KARAMANEL.
>> JOSEPH.
CAN YOU ASK HIM HOW MANY PEOPLE ARE IN HIS VILLAGE HERE?
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> THERE ARE ABOUT 500.
>> ABOUT 500 TOTAL IN HIS VILLAGE.
NOW, HOW LONG DO YOU NORMALLY STAY WITH THE TOURISTS WHEN YOU COME?
>> THEY COME AND THEY JUST TICK, TICK, TICK, TICK, AND THEY GO BACK.
>> IS THERE ANYTHING THAT I CAN DO AS PART OF BEING HERE WITH THEM--PARTICIPATE IN ANY OF THEIR ACTIVITIES IN ANY WAY?
>> EVEN IF YOU STAY ONE DAY, TWO DAYS, OR 30 DAYS, YOU ARE ALWAYS A GUEST.
>> ALWAYS A GUEST.
ALWAYS A GUEST.
THE ONGOING COMMERCIALIZING OF THE MURSI TRIBE HAS SET THE STAGE FOR MY SOULLESS MEETING WITH CHIEF KARAMANEL.
TRY AS I MIGHT TO ENGAGE HIM, RATHER THAN SHARING HIS CULTURE, HE'S MORE INTERESTED IN NEGOTIATING HIS FEE.
>> HE SAY IT'S ENOUGH.
>> IT'S ENOUGH?
OK.
THE MURSI HAVE A REPUTATION FOR BEING AGGRESSIVE, PARTICULARLY THE WOMEN, WHICH IS WHY I AVOID THEM.
AFTER DECADES OF TOURISM, THE MURSI HAVE LEARNED THE RULES OF ENGAGEMENT.
SO WHAT'S THE SITUATION?
>> SO YOU GIVE ME...20 NOW.
>> THE TOURISTS WANT THEIR PICTURES.
THEY WANT THE TOURISTS' MONEY, AND EVERY AGREED-UPON FEE IS JUST ANOTHER POINT OF CONTENTION.
>> IT'S NOT ENOUGH.
>> IF RATHER THAN SNAPSHOTS, YOU WANT A GENUINE EXCHANGE WITH THE NATIVE POPULATION, AN EXCURSION TO THE MURSI WILL MOST LIKELY DISAPPOINT, AND CONTINUED VISITATION TO THIS TRIBE IS AS DETRIMENTAL TO THEM AS TO THE VISITORS.
THE ROADS ARE DEVELOPING IN SOUTHERN ETHIOPIA, AND SOME DAY THERE WILL BE PAVED ROADS THAT WILL TAKE YOU FROM THE MAJOR CITIES INTO THE OMO VALLEY.
AND THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT IT'LL BE A MUCH MORE COMFORTABLE RIDE, A QUICKER RIDE.
BUT OF COURSE IT'LL MAKE IT EASIER FOR MORE AND MORE PEOPLE TO COME INTO THE VALLEY, WHICH WILL EVEN MORE DRAMATICALLY AFFECT THE NATIVE PEOPLE, THE DIFFERENT TRIBES.
THEY'RE ALREADY BEING AFFECTED BY TOURISM, AND I'M SURE THAT IN THE FUTURE, THEIR CLOSE CONTACT WITH TOURISM WILL CERTAINLY CHANGE THEIR WAY OF LIFE, IF NOT COMPLETELY, EVENTUALLY MAKE IT DISAPPEAR.
DISILLUSIONED AND DISHEARTENED, I HEAD BACK TO JINKA, WHERE MY WIFE AND PRODUCER JULIE AND I WALK THE STREETS.
DURING OUR WANDERINGS, WE MEET FREYO, A STUDENT WHO GRACIOUSLY INTRODUCES US TO HIS FRIEND, A WEAVER FROM THE AARI TRIBE.
CASSAHOUM SHARA WELCOMES US INTO HIS HOME AND SHARES HIS CRAFT WITH US.
EARLY THE NEXT MORNING, WE RETURN WITH OUR CREW TO WATCH HIM WORK.
HE'S WORKING ON WHAT WE WOULD CALL A LOOM, AND IT'S A VERY INTRICATE CONTRAPTION.
CORN COBS MAKE THE WHEELS THAT TURN THE FOOT PEDALS.
WHAT DO THEY CALL THIS IN HIS LANGUAGE?
>> THEY CALL IT "DIR."
>> AND CAN YOU ASK HIM HOW LONG HIS FAMILY HAS BEEN WEAVING?
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> HE SAID HIS FATHER'S BEEN DOING FOR 60 YEARS.
>> 60 YEARS.
>> 60 YEARS.
MOST MEN DO-- >> MEN?
>> MEN DO.
BUT THE WOMAN ONLY LOOK FOR THE DESIGN.
>> AHA.
>> BUT THEY DON'T WORK LONGER.
THEY DON'T STAY LONGER THAN THE MAN.
>> SO THEY CREATE THE DESIGN, THE WOMEN-- >> YEAH.
>> AND THE MEN DO ALL THE WORK.
>> YES.
>> IT'S A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT.
>> IT TAKES LONG TIME.
AND THE MEN SIT AND DO IT, YOU KNOW?
>> HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO MAKE ONE OF THE BEAUTIFUL SHAWLS?
>> ABOUT 15 DAYS.
>> AND THIS IS WORN AS PART OF THE TRADITIONAL DRESS FOR FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS?
>> MOST PEOPLE DRESS THIS TRADITIONAL SCARF DURING NEW YEAR.
>> AND THERE'S A PARTICULAR WAY TO WEAR IT.
>> WHEN YOU GO TO THE CHURCH, YOU HAVE TO COVER ALL YOUR HEAD, JUST LIKE THIS.
>> AH.
I UNDERSTAND.
SO IT'S A SIGN OF RESPECT WHEN YOU GO TO CHURCH TO COVER YOUR HEAD.
THESE PARTICULAR COLORS, THESE LOOK LIKE THE COLORS OF ETHIOPIA.
>> YES.
>> SO THIS IS A REAL, TRUE ETHIOPIAN SCARF THAT HE'S MAKING, WITH THE COLORS THAT WILL BE WORN AT THE HOLIDAY TIME.
SO THIS IS A CELEBRATION OF NOT ONLY HIS TRIBE BUT OF ETHIOPIA.
>> YES.
>> THAT'S REALLY WONDERFUL.
>> AS A SOUVENIR, I'LL GIVE YOU THIS.
>> OH, REALLY?
FABULOUS.
SO THIS, HE GAVE IT ME AS A... AS A GIFT.
UM, AS A REMEMBRANCE FOR COMING HERE AND GIVING A DEMONSTRATION TO ME OF HOW HIS CULTURE AND HIS PEOPLE CREATE SOMETHING THAT IS INDIGENOUS TO THEIR CULTURE.
[SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> THE SOUTH OMO IS ONE OF 21 ZONES THAT MAKE UP THE SOUTHERN NATION'S NATIONALITIES AND PEOPLE'S REGION OF ETHIOPIA.
56 ETHNIC GROUPS LIVE IN THE REGION, WITH DISTINCT HOMELANDS, LANGUAGES, TRADITIONS, RITUALS, AND VALUES.
DURING YOUR JOURNEY, THERE ARE MANY UNEXPECTED OPPORTUNITIES FOR CULTURAL ENCOUNTERS.
SO, THESE GENTLEMEN, ARE THEY FROM THE HAMER TRIBE ALSO?
>> THEY'RE FROM THE HAMER TRIBE.
>> AND THEY'RE ALL--THIS IS PART OF THAT DECORATION, BECAUSE THE HAMER PEOPLE LOVE TO DECORATE THEMSELVES.
>> YES, IN DIFFERENT MANNERS.
>> WHAT HAVE THEY BEEN DOING?
>> THEY'RE LOOKING AFTER THEIR CATTLE, THEIR GOATS, AND THEIR SHEEPS.
>> OH.
THESE ARE THE SHEPHERDS.
>> THE SHEPHERDS, YEAH.
>> WELL, THEY CERTAINLY HAVE COVERED THEMSELVES WITH THE SOIL FROM THE RIVERBANK.
>> UH-HUH.
>> SINCE THEY ARE PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO DECORATE THEMSELVES, THEY DO.
>> YES, BECAUSE THEY HAVE ENOUGH TIME TO DO IT--BY LOOKING AFTER THEIR COWS.
>> IF WE HAD MORE TIME, WE WOULD MAYBE BE MORE DECORATIVE.
AND BE AS GOOD-LOOKING AS THEY ARE.
THIS IS THE SATURDAY MARKET HERE IN DIMEKA, WHICH IS THE ADMINISTRATIVE CENTER FOR THE HAMER PEOPLE, WHICH IS ONE OF THE LARGEST SOUTHERN OMO VALLEY TRIBES.
LET'S GO SEE WHAT THEY HAVE FOR SALE.
NUTS, CHILIES, TOMATOES, AND POWERED OCHRE FOR COVERING THE WOMEN'S BEAUTIFULLY BRAIDED HAIR ARE A FEW OF THE HIGHLY-SOUGHT ITEMS AT THE HAMER MARKET IN DIMEKA, AS WELL AS GOURDS FOR PURSES AND CALABASHES FOR WATER CONTAINERS.
SO THESE ARE, UH-- >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> EVEN WHEN THEY AGREE IN ADVANCE, SOME TRIBAL PEOPLE STILL REFUSE MY EFFORTS TO REACH OUT.
HAVE OTHER TRAVELERS MADE THEM SO DISTRUSTFUL?
I'M NOT SURE.
BUT IF AT FIRST I DON'T SUCCEED, I STILL TRY AGAIN.
BUT THIS TIME I ASK MY HAMER GUIDE THOYAD TO JOIN ME IN COMMUNICATING MY GOOD INTENTIONS.
SALAAM.
I'M JOSEPH.
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> JOSEPH.
AND HER NAME?
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> ERBO.
>> ERBO.
AND LOOK HOW BEAUTIFULLY ARRAYED ERBO IS, 'CAUSE THE HAMER PEOPLE ARE NOTED FOR THEIR DECORATIONS.
WHERE DO THEY GET THESE SHELLS?
>> FROM KENYA.
>> FROM KENYA.
WHAT ABOUT THE MARKS ON HER BODY?
IS THAT JUST DECORATION?
>> NO.
WHEN'S SHE'S SICK, THEY DON'T GO TO CLINIC.
THE WANT TO OUT...THE BLED.
>> AH, THEY BLEED OUT SO THAT THE HUMORS GET OUT OF THEIR BODY, THE BAD HUMORS.
DOES SHE HAVE JUST ONE HUSBAND?
OR IS THERE MANY?
>> SHE HAS ONE, BUT HE HAS TWO WIVES.
>> I UNDERSTAND THAT THE HAMER PEOPLE ARE A POLYGAMOUS GROUP-- >> YES.
TWO, THREE, FOUR-- >> THE MEN CAN HAVE MANY WIVES.
>> YES.
>> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> [LAUGHS] >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> [SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE] >> TODAY'S HAMER COMMUNAL COMING TOGETHER DOESN'T END AT THE MARKET.
BACK AT THE HAMER VILLAGE, THE CELEBRATING IS JUST ABOUT TO BEGIN.
>> [SINGING AND CHANTING] >> AFTER A LONG DAY OF WORKING, THEY START TO MAKE THEIR OWN SONG, AND THIS SONG AND DANCE AND HAVE FUN CAN CONTINUE TILL AROUND MIDNIGHT.
>> REALLY?
>> SONGS OF YOUNGSTERS ABOUT LOVE, FREEDOM, ABOUT NATURE, ALL THE THINGS.
>> THIS SOCIETY IS QUITE FREE.
>> IT'S A REALLY FREE AND RELAXED SOCIETY.
>> EVEN THE LITTLE KIDS ARE DANCING.
>> [SINGING] >> JOIN THEM AND DANCE.
>> OK. WHOO!
WHOA!
AAH!
[SINGING IN NATIVE LANGUAGE] WE MAY NOT BE ABLE TO UNDERSTAND THE LANGUAGE, BUT THERE IS A UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE.
THAT'S MUSIC AND SONG AND DANCE.
IF I COULD ONLY GET IN RHYTHM.
[LAUGHS] THANK YOU FOR JOINING ME ON MY SOUTHERN ETHIOPIA ADVENTURE.
IN SOME WAY OR OTHER, ALL TRAVEL OFFERS THE OPPORTUNITY FOR PERSONAL GROWTH.
THEREFORE, SOMETIMES A TRIP IS AS SIGNIFICANT FOR THE CHALLENGES FACED AS THE THINGS WE SEE AND DO.
IN SOUTHERN ETHIOPIA AND THE OMO VALLEY, TOURISM IS RELATIVELY NEW.
ACCOMMODATIONS ARE RUSTIC, TRAVEL DISTANCES LONG, AND ROADS DEVELOPING, AND ENCOUNTERS WITH THE ETHNIC TRIBAL PEOPLE ARE SOMETIMES FRAUGHT WITH MISUNDERSTANDINGS AND MISSTEPS, WHICH CAN BE DISAPPOINTING ON BOTH SIDES.
YET AMONG THE TRAVEL DEBRIS, THERE ARE GOLDEN NUGGETS.
HOW YOU DOING?
>> [LAUGHS] >> UNEXPECTED MEETINGS.
WARMHEARTED, GENUINE WELCOMES.
AMAZING PEOPLES.
THE OLD ROLLING STONES SONG SAYS "YOU CAN'T ALWAYS GET WHAT YOU WANT, BUT YOU GET WHAT YOU NEED."
IF YOU TRAVEL IN SOUTHERN ETHIOPIA WITH OPEN EYES, AN OPEN MIND AND AN OPEN HEART, YOU'LL GET WHAT YOU NEED.
TILL NEXT TIME, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO, REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN: "TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS."
HAPPY TRAVELING.
>> "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVEL SCOPE" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY VOLVO'S OVERSEAS DELIVERY PROGRAM, WHERE BUYERS CAN PICK UP A NEW VOLVO IN SWEDEN, USE IT IN EUROPE, AND THEN HAVE IT JOIN THEM AT HOME.
NO-JET-LAG, JET LAG PREVENTION.
AUBERGE RESORTS, DISTINCTIVE COLLECTION OF LUXURY RESORTS, RESIDENCES, AND SPAS.
FOR A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S "TRAVEL SCOPE" ADVENTURES, CALL 888-876-3399.
OR ORDER ONLINE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET.
YOU CAN ALSO E-MAIL US AT TV@TRAVELSCOPE.NET, OR WRITE US AT THE ADDRESS ON YOUR SCREEN.
>> NOW THAT WE'VE HAD CLOSE ENCOUNTERS IN SOUTHERN ETHIOPIA, LEARN MORE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET.
WHERE YOU CAN FOLLOW MY ADVENTURES THROUGH MY E-MAGAZINE, BLOG, PODCASTS, AND ON FACEBOOK.
KEEP IN TOUCH.
888-876-3399, OR TV@TRAVELSCOPE.NET.
[CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY FRIENDS OF NCI] >> WHEREVER I GO, I HAVE TO COME UP WITH A NEW WAY TO SAY "THANK YOU" AND A NEW WAY TO SAY "HELLO," BUT SALAAM OFTEN ALWAYS WORKS.
SALAAM.
Support for PBS provided by:
Joseph Rosendo’s Travelscope is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television