- Outsiders call this country Tajikistan.

But Tajiks say Tojikiston.

The word "toj" means "crown," and it's more than an apt description.

With mountains covering 90% of the country, Tajikistan is the world's third highest.

In this episode of "FLY BROTHER," my friends, both old and new, show us incredible hospitality, delicious food, and a culture millennia in the making.

Let's fly to Tajikistan, crown of the world.

I'm Ernest White II... storyteller, explorer.

I believe in connecting across backgrounds and boundaries.

- I mean, look at us.

We're chasing the sunset.

- Join me and my friends... What's going on, boy?

♪ ...and discover that, no matter the background, no matter the history, the whole world is our tribe.

♪ Come with me.

Whoo!

"FLY BROTHER."

- Major funding for this program is provided by... Marie Roberts De La Parra -- personal coaching, executive leadership, and self-empowerment.

Courageous Conversation Global Foundation.

Promoting racial justice, interacial understanding, and human healing.

MetalShake by Sweden.

Additional funding provided by the following.

- Tojikiston!

♪ Tajikistan.

It's a land of mountains that reach up to the sky... of electric-blue water melting from the world's southernmost glaciers... of unexpected beauty in every hidden valley and atop every stunning peak.

It might be a little rough sometimes, but Tajikistan is gorgeous.

♪ ♪ ♪ We're here in the Fann Mountains of Tajikistan, one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Have a look for yourself.

♪ Landlocked in the heart of Central Asia, mountains cover some 93% of the surface area of Tajikistan, a country northwest of the Himalayas and around the same size as the U.S. state of Wisconsin.

Despite its small area, the country's elevation ranges from 980 feet at its lowest point to 24,590 feet at the top of Ismoil Somoni Peak.

Tajikistan is high, and many of these heights can be reached, or seen, only an hour or two outside of the capital city.

♪ I first came to Tajikistan on assignment in 2016 to update a guidebook to the country.

While I knew travel and guidebook writing fairly well, my knowledge of Tajik and Russian was nonexistent.

And the combination of majestic mountain landscapes and welcoming people made a deep impression on me as a traveler and as a human.

♪ Stunning and often surreal, I've never been any place like it.

♪ Smell the<i> archat.</i> You smell it?

Let's go.

I'm here at the spectacular Iskanderkul, a lake, they say, was named for Alexander the Great, who came through here centuries ago.

But right now, I'm about to go up to a waterfall to meet my friend Bakhriddin, who's an amazing photographer, and he's going to show us all about the beauties of Tajikistan.

♪ I met photographer Bakhriddin Isamutdinov in professional circles, and his keen eye for natural beauty is contagious.

♪ [ Speaking Russian ] - [ Speaking Russian ] - I bet y'all didn't know I spoke Russian.

Kind of.

♪ Landlocked in the mountains some 900 miles inland from the nearest ocean, nomadic and urban life in what is now Tajikistan dates back some 6,000 years.

The area has always been prized by larger neighboring empires, starting with the vast Achaemenid Empire under Cyrus the Great, followed by the even vaster Macedonian Empire under Alexander the Great, who married Roxana, daughter of a local nobleman.

City-states flourished in the valleys along the Silk Road over the centuries, absorbing the mix of cultures, traditions, and religions.

Islam predominated from the 8th century, and the region excelled in the arts and sciences under the Persianate Samanid Empire in the 9th and 10th centuries.

Later, conquerors Genghis Khan and Tamerlane laid claim to the region before it shuffled through the hands of various Uzbek khans and emirs, finally landing in Russian hands in the late 19th century.

In the 20th, Communist Russia expanded into the Soviet Union, encompassing a Tajikistan that would only become an independent nation in 1991.

At night, the capital city of Dushanbe sparkles.

And this night, I'm headed to visit noted Tajik designer Khurshed Sattorov at his atelier to help myself blend in a little more while in the city.

♪ - Hi!

- Hey, Khurshed!

How are you?

Good to see you again, man!

Khurshed is a top fashion designer in the region, known for his beautiful, intricate designs that meld classic Persianate and Central Asian patterns with modern silhouettes and styles.

Oh, my God, that is beautiful.

I love it.

- Okay.

- Alright, we have a beautiful, modern Tajik design.

We've got traditional patterning on a contemporary black T-shirt that is going to have me looking fly as I traipse around the streets of Dushanbe.

I'm excited.

And...something else?

- This toqi.

- Alright.

Toqi, which is a traditional hat from Tajikistan and Central Asia.

- Yes.

- Alright!

I love it!

Tajik textiles and design patterns reflect centuries of artistry and craftsmanship, fostered by the constant historical trade in staples and luxuries between East and West, a flowering of culture and design.

♪ I love it, man.

Thank you.

Thank you guys so much.

<i>Rahmat!</i> I will be wearing this as I tour Dushanbe and I'm excited to go out looking a little bit more like a local.

[ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪ Thank you, man.

I really appreciate it.

♪ The next morning, a little jet-lagged but happy to be back in TJ, I meet up with one of my best buds in the city, Mohammad Istam, who was my tour guide into the Fann Mountains on my first trip.

Mohammad is smart, funny, talented, and passionate about his homeland.

So, as a tour guide, you take tourists from all around the world to all the different parts of Tajikistan.

What do they love about it the most?

- The answer to this question, it depends, actually, because there are many types of tours who come to Tajikistan.

For example, the tours who come from Russia, they are not much interested in nature.

But those who come from Europe, they love to see mountains, and that is something that attracts most of the tourists.

- Since you've been all over the country, what do you love about Tajikistan?

- Yeah, very challenging question, actually, because you're asking me a question, like, do you like more drinking or eating?

So, to that question, I would tell -- actually, when I think about Tajikistan, whatever crosses my mind first, that is something that I love about my country.

- So the first thing you think about is what you love about it?

- Exactly, exactly.

Whenever I think about Tajikistan.

So right now, I'm thinking about Fann Mountains because I'm going to Fann Mountains tomorrow... - Okay.

- ...in order to guide a group of tourists.

So, right now, I love the Fann Mountains.

You know, I'm the best guide in Tajikistan.

- I know it, man.

You are.

- Thank you, thank you.

- Alright!

The capital of Tajikistan is Dushanbe, a medium-sized city of some 750,000 people.

Tajikistan itself has around 9.5 million citizens, spread out among the country's cities, towns, and rural areas.

Dushanbe's a center of business and culture, and during the Soviet era, culture played a large part in Tajikistan's relationship to the much larger Russia.

Intricate tile murals from this time period celebrate Tajik art, science, and folklore.

♪ One notable cultural icon is the teahouse, or <i> chaykhona,</i> in which people gather for business and pleasure over a steaming pot of tea.

And Dushanbe hosts the largest teahouse of them all, the palatial Kokhi Navruz, complete with waterfall, cinema, and bowling alley.

I'm big.

The Kokhi Navruz... way bigger.

♪ ♪ - I am very glad seeing you in Tajikistan.

- Thank you very much.

- In our palace.

This palace called Kokhi Navruz.

- Kokhi Navruz.

- That is translated Navruz Palace.

- Okay.

- And Navruz is our ancient holiday of Tajik people and has 6,000-year history.

- Wow.

- Yes.

Here, you can see our Tajik national handicrafts.

- It's beautiful.

- 40,000 square meters is handmade.

And during this construction, only local masters, artists from all different regions of Tajikistan.

- Wow.

Okay.

- Construction started in 2009 and finished in September 2014.

- Okay.

- My best regards... - Yes, thank you very much.

- ...for American people.

- That was wonderful.

- I love you.

- I love you, too.

- I love you very much.

- Thank you so much.

- Thank you.

Thank you.

- Thank you.

From the super-modern Kokhi Navruz, we head to the mid-century modern Chaikhona Rokhat to meet up with my friend Audrey Jannin.

Hey, Audrey, how are you?

Good to see you again.

- Hi!

- So, what do you love about Tajikistan?

- Um, mainly, I would say, first, the mountains.

Those rocky mineral mountains.

- Beautiful.

- And second, people.

- Yes.

- They are just so kind, you know?

- Very welcoming and friendly.

- Yes.

You feel at home.

- The Chaikhona Rokhat marries elaborate traditional Tajik craftsmanship with the brutalist concrete design of the Soviet era.

It's an odd pairing, but I find it interesting and attractive.

It's the perfect spot for tea and people-watching.

♪ So, what drew you to Central Asia in the first place, do you think?

- So, why I decided to come to Central Asia?

It has always been fascinating, you know, this little grey spot on the zone that very little people know about.

And so, that's why I was interested.

I studied Central Asia at university -- like, specifically, Central Asia.

- Okay.

- Then, I was like, "I want to go to live there, to see for real."

- Okay.

Tell me about the hiking project that you have going on right now.

- It's called "Women Rockin' Pamirs."

Those camps are for, like, one week every year, usually in June, beginning of July.

We bring girls from, like, 15 to 18 years old in the mountains.

And they learn about, like, geology, fauna, flora, observing wildlife, observing stars.

Most of the time, people who are in towns never go outside.

- Okay.

- So, they really have no idea, what is the environment.

And also, most of the time, then, they come back after this training, and they're like, "Oh, now I understand why tourists are coming/ We live in a beautiful place."

- Yes.

- And I'm like, "Yes.

you have a beautiful area around you -- beautiful mountains, wildlife.

Everything is gorgeous."

- It absolutely is.

I mean, Tajikistan's so beautiful.

I think it's important for people outside of the country to see that beauty, but also people inside the country to see it, as well.

So, it's great that you're a part of that.

Visiting those teahouses helped me work up an appetite.

And in Tajikistan, there is plenty on the menu.

For lunch, we head to Toqi Restaurant, named for the ubiquitous hat in the region, and recommended to me on my first trip a few years ago by my cab driver.

Hearty beef stews are just the beginning.

The salads, mains, and of course, tasty Tajik bread, are all made from fresh ingredients, and with love.

We sit in a private dining area to meet up with my bud, Valijon Juraev -- a college student with all the personality in the world.

- Hi!

- Hey, Valijon!

How are you doing, man?

It's good to see you.

Come on in.

- Ah, brother, thank you.

- Good to see you.

- Good to see you, too.

♪ - Lunch is a filling rice-based dish called "plov," a cousin to pilaf, heaped with carrots, onions, spices, and succulent beef.

After ribs, it's the world's tastiest sleeping pill, but there's no time for a nap.

♪ ♪ Next, Valijon takes me to the Mehrgon Market, where his knowledge of Tajikistan's agricultural bounty is evident, and impressive.

- Most of the tourists, they come here for our fruits, which are really fresh, and we don't use any chemicals.

- Okay, so it's all organic.

- Yeah.

- Tajikistan has long been a producer of agricultural products, and exports tons of apricots, almonds, onions, grapes, and nuts to neighboring countries, including China and Russia.

In fact, the fruit looked so enticing, and the sales lady so convincing, I had to expand my own palate a little.

I usually don't eat apricots, but I guess I am now.

Later this afternoon, I connect with another lady who loves the outdoors -- Nigina Kudratova.

Nigina has scaled to stunning heights all over the world, but it's the natural beauty of her home country that she cherishes most.

So, what do you love about this nature that we're sitting in right now?

- Well, the nature of Tajikistan is very diverse, and you can find so many different places and sceneries, like landscapes, in different parts of Tajikistan.

And what I love about it is that it takes only half an hour of ride, and you can go to the mountains, and just climb, and walk around, and get unplugged, you know?

And, yeah, be peaceful, stay in the moment, be with your friends, and just enjoy the moment.

- Hm.

Okay.

Okay.

I can see that.

It's so peaceful.

It's so beautiful here.

We've got a waterfall nearby.

- Yeah.

- Just incredible mountains.

And I keep saying it all the time, with every turn of a corner, there's just a new landscape in Tajikistan.

- Yeah, exactly.

- Nigina, how did you get into rock climbing?

- Well, I've been always into outdoors.

Three years ago, I discovered rock climbing, and it totally blew my mind.

It eventually became my lifestyle.

So, basically, when I get a chance, free time, what I do is just go out into the mountains, and climb.

Because it actually helps me to stay focused, be in the moment.

It's like a sort of meditation, for me.

Yeah, it's great.

- What's your day job, then?

- I work as communications expert for the Project on the Prevention of Domestic Violence.

It's a nonprofit organization.

And we help women who've experienced domestic violence, provide psychological and legal support.

- Okay.

- Also, we have a shelter where they can stay.

- So, it's important work.

- Yeah.

- What do you want people outside of Tajikistan to know about the country?

- Tajikistan is a very unique country, in terms of that you can find a combination of wild nature and people's hospitality.

And you can go to remote areas, and just get connected with people, learn their stories, and connect to nature.

You can find such interesting places, like Yaghnob.

It's in the north part of Tajikistan, where people still speak this ancient Persian dialect.

- Oh, wow.

- And yeah, you can find people who live by the traditions of their ancestors, and it's like time traveling, you know?

You would never experience things like that somewhere else.

And it's very -- It's amazing.

But I always felt like there's a reason for me to come back to Tajikistan, and enjoy everything the country has to offer.

- Alright, so let's enjoy it!

- Let's do it!

♪ - We hit the road again, this time for a much longer excursion to the arid south of Tajikistan.

Here, the traditions of the rural heartland truly come alive amid incredible natural beauty.

♪ ♪ The region of Khatlon is the center of Tajikistan's cotton-growing sector, with friendly people and a long, proud history.

Here, we stop by the Hulbuk Museum, intricately detailed, and full of stories.

♪ ♪ It's beautiful.

Is that you?

- 41 years.

- That was you?

That's him, guys, 41 years ago.

Nice.

♪ So, it was 1,100 years ago where they painted this red.

But over the 1,100 years, the painting -- the paint rubbed off.

I'm such a geek.

I travel to learn things.

This is a 10th century baby bottle.

So, what you've got here is the pitcher for the milk.

And then, you've got the bottle that the 2-year-old, I believe, would be fed from.

So, they poured the milk in here, and then they served it through this little spout.

This is 11 centuries old, and he gave it to me to hold.

♪ This is heavy.

Good think I work out.

You went down into it.

You found 5 skeletons when you were down there?

Impressive.

You've made history.

So, this is a fragment of the original central gate of the Hulbuk Palace, which is right outside these doors.

This recreation of Hulbuk Palace, a medieval fortress offering protection and luxury, was first excavated in the 1950s.

Abdullo worked as an archaeologist on the site as a young man.

Alright.

Thank you.

Thank you very much.

Let's go take a look at the Hulbuk Palace.

♪ ♪ They had a piped water system to provide water to every room in the palace, including the pool, the harem, et cetera.

The kitchen.

- Service.

- Mm-hmm.

- Service.

- Service.

Five-star.

Top-notch.

Best hotel on the Silk Road.

♪ Abdullo speaks at least four languages, and I have a couple under my belt, too.

But in Tajikistan, the people understand even without words.

They're gracious and kind.

♪ ♪ On my first trip, I was told that, culturally, it's a sin and a shame to let a traveler pass without offering food and shelter.

In the harsh environment of these mountain passes, arid in summer, icy in winter, hospitality could mean saving someone's life.

I'm here in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of Tajikistan.

It's the largest region of the country.

And I'm right on the edge, across the beautiful River Panj, an ancient river that separates the two countries of Tajikistan and Afghanistan.

This is exciting for me, because it's just two countries that have shared cultures and languages amidst this beautiful mountain scenery.

And there's one particular mountaintop retreat that's worth the long trek.

Castle Karon dates back some 2,000 years BC.

It was a major stopping point on the Silk Road between Europe and Asia.

This huge complex overlooks the River Panj in both directions, and it served as a place of protection and comfort for merchants and traders on the Silk Road.

♪ In this remote, sparsely populated area of Tajikistan, Castle Karon sprawls over 250 acres -- some 12,000 feet in altitude.

Dating back over 4,000 years to the region's Zoroastrian era, archaeologists estimate the complex was a wealthy trading center, with various altars, living chambers, gold processing spaces, and a polo field with capacity for some 10,000 spectators.

Karon was truly a city on a hill, and but one of Tajikistan's innumerable treasures.

♪ Beautiful, endearing, inspiring.

With every visit, in ways big and small, Tajikistan captures my heart.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ - Major funding for this program is provided by... Marie Roberts De La Parra -- personal coaching, executive leadership, and self-empowerment.

Courageous Conversation Global Foundation.

Promoting racial justice, interacial understanding, and human healing.

MetalShake by Sweden.

Additional funding provided by the following.

To join the "Fly Brother" travel community or to order your own copy of this episode, visit flybrother.net.

♪