

Taos, New Mexico
11/28/2020 | 26m 39sVideo has Closed Captions
Experience the history of Taos, New Mexico and sample the region’s native ingredients.
Host Curtis Stone meets Christopher Lujan, who grows ancient heirloom blue corn in the high-elevation mountains of Taos Pueblo. Curtis also visits Romero Farms, known for growing everything from oats to heirloom varietal chilies. These ingredients come together with the help of Chef Andrew Horton and Chef Chris Maher, as they serve up the best of New Mexican cuisine.
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Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Taos, New Mexico
11/28/2020 | 26m 39sVideo has Closed Captions
Host Curtis Stone meets Christopher Lujan, who grows ancient heirloom blue corn in the high-elevation mountains of Taos Pueblo. Curtis also visits Romero Farms, known for growing everything from oats to heirloom varietal chilies. These ingredients come together with the help of Chef Andrew Horton and Chef Chris Maher, as they serve up the best of New Mexican cuisine.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship♪ ♪ >> From the editors of Relish.com, we bring you Moveable Feast.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> STONE: Welcome to Taos, New Mexico.
Comes with your passport-- when you move to New Mexico, you get a never-ending supply of green chili, and you have to use it all the time.
>> I'm still not sick of it.
>> STONE: Where we're prepping up a Native-inspired feast for 15 or so friends and family.
We're working with chefs Chris Maher... >> Yeah, I have a problem.
I can't stop eating the chicos.
>> I share a similar affliction.
>> STONE: And Andrew Horton.
>> Salt and sugar here.
>> STONE: Salt and sugar.
All about the balance.
>> STONE: Why salt and sugar?
>> We're cooking, baby.
>> STONE: I like that.
Sourcing veg-- where else-- at the local farmers' market.
>> Let's get two bags, please.
>> Whoa, he's not messing around.
>> Yeah.
>> STONE: And blue corn from the even more local Taos Pueblo.
>> You know, the invitation to come and share a meal?
That's how you make friendships.
>> STONE: Cheers.
>> ALL: Cheers.
>> Coming up next on Moveable Feast with Relish.
♪ ♪ >> Major funding provided by: >> Ladies and gentlemen, your attention, please.
(gecko clears throat, feedback squeals) >> GEICO would like to take a moment to say thank you to our military service members at home and abroad for all their hard work and sacrifice.
We all sleep easier knowing you're out there keeping us safe.
And on a personal note... (jet engines roar, gecko's speech muffled) (crowd cheering) (exhales) Just needed to get that off my chest.
Thank you.
>> GEICO-- proudly supporting the military for over 75 years.
>> We can't just take from nature, so we collaborate.
Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way.
♪ ♪ >> Ocean Spray is a proud sponsor of Moveable Feast.
>> At Pure Leaf, the most important ingredient in making tea is saying no.
We're committed to saying no to artificial flavors and sweeteners in our brewed iced teas.
♪ ♪ >> I am Errico Auricchio, the founder of BelGioioso Cheese.
I came in 1979 from Italy with my family and the memory of Italian cheese.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> Hey.
>> STONE: How are you doing?
>> How's it going, fellows?
>> STONE: Good.
>> Ready to go see a farmers' market?
>> STONE: Oh, for sure, hop on in.
So tell me about Taos.
>> It's a small town, Taos, New Mexico, but really great food.
You know, you can see the beauty.
It's very different waking up here than waking up in Manhattan or Los Angeles.
♪ ♪ Every Saturday, middle of May until middle of October, this market occurs.
>> STONE: It's cool.
It's, like, not just fruit and vegetables.
There's, like, artists and honey sellers.
>> People that make soaps, and people that make lotions.
And these guys make kind of a hippie-ish artisan bread.
>> STONE: That's cool.
>> What's up, brother?
How are you?
>> STONE: Are you a native?
>> I am not.
I grew up in Boulder, learned to cook in New York City.
Pretty common Taos tale.
I wasn't planning on moving here.
Came to visit a friend, and never left.
>> STONE: A native of Boulder, Colorado, chef Andrew Horton attended the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan after discovering his love of food at his first job as dishwasher at a local Mexican restaurant.
After working at several restaurants in New York, Horton became the chef de cuisine at Common Fire in Taos, where he celebrates the local ingredients and the way-above-sea-level fish available in the region.
>> It's called the Land of Enchantment, but I prefer to call it the Land of Entrapment.
(laughter) >> STONE: Chef Chris Maher was born in Alexandria, Egypt, but made his way to North America with his family in the 1960s.
He attended acting school in New York, and made an effort to pursue both these great passions by working as a waiter and in the kitchen at the Tavern on the Green.
Before moving to Taos, Chef Maher owned several restaurants in Los Angeles.
He is now the chef and owner of the Cooking School Taos, where he incorporates some of his Middle Eastern heritage into a uniquely New Mexican cuisine.
>> I was living in Los Angeles, and I just took a trip out to the desert.
And I was going to spend one day here.
I spent five, and on my fifth day I bought land.
>> STONE: Do I have to call my wife and kids and tell them something that they weren't expecting?
(laughter) >> This guy raises hogs naturally.
The meat's fantastic.
It's a product of the way the hogs are raised.
>> Sustainable raised beef is mainly my family, now we sustainably raise pork.
>> What have you got in the cooler today?
>> Pork chops, pork roast, pork ribs.
We have Boston shoulder roast, butt roast.
>> Let's see the pork butt.
I might be able to use that tonight.
>> So here's a nice Boston butt.
>> STONE: That's fabulous.
I love the marbling.
That intermuscular fat looks really good.
>> Absolutely.
>> What would you make with it?
>> What about a green chili stew?
>> STONE: Oh, yeah.
>> With that beautiful pork butt it's got a nice bone in it, some onions, some garlic, oregano.
>> STONE: Sounds fantastic.
>> Yeah, it'll be great.
>> If you're doing pork, I think I'm going to see what they have in the way of beef.
What have you got in the cooler?
>> We have a top sirloin steak.
>> Top sirloin, let me take a look at that.
>> What are you thinking of making with it?
>> Maybe we could do beef tartare with a green chili aioli, and find some fresh vegetables here at the farmers market.
>> STONE: That sounds delicious.
>> That sounds great.
>> Let's go ahead-- I'll take it.
♪ ♪ >> STONE: So what do you usually get from this guy?
>> Got some killer beans.
>> Beans.
>> STONE: Oh yeah?
>> These are pinto beans.
>> STONE: Wow, they're all different colors.
>> That's the real deal.
>> Pretty much every New Mexican restaurant will have this on the menu.
>> STONE: Right.
>> Looks like some radishes.
>> STONE: Peas.
>> Let's go ahead and get some of those for the steak tartare.
>> STONE: This is the red chili you were telling me about.
>> So red chili is green chili that's gone ripe.
>> STONE: Yeah.
So you dry it out, grind it, and that's it.
>> That's it.
>> So I think Chris is going to use this to make a sauce.
Is that correct, chef?
>> Yep.
>> Get a bag of this as well.
>> Okay.
>> Is it mild, medium, or hot?
>> This is medium.
>> Okay, let's do two bags, please.
>> Two bags of the medium.
>> STONE: Whoa.
>> He's not messing around.
>> Yeah.
(laughter) >> STONE: So tell me, what else should we see in town?
>> Let's go check out the pueblo.
We can get some blue corn from there.
>> STONE: Oh, yeah.
♪ ♪ >> We're at Taos Pueblo.
We're the oldest continually inhabited village in North America.
>> STONE: Wow.
>> Unlike our brothers and sisters who have been removed and placed on small reservations, this is our original homeland.
We've never been removed.
>> STONE: I mean, I can only imagine, because I don't have a history that's gone on for a hundred years, let alone a thousand years or more.
So when you walk into this village, and you know it's your people's village, how does it feel?
>> Like my ancestors are with me.
Almost as if time has stood still, and we still have our dances and our ceremonies.
And we need to keep them for us.
We know who we are, and we know what makes us special, and that we've got to hold on to it with everything we have.
>> Tell us a little about the agriculture historically with the pueblo, or this area in general.
>> Well, Taos Pueblo, we've always been an agricultural society.
Our civilization relied entirely on corn, bean... those were our main staples, and which is a really beautiful thing.
People have gone back to our beginnings, to our roots.
>> That's where blue corn comes in.
>> That's where the real indigenous component comes in.
>> The comeback of the blue corn is very important to us, you know, in all Native communities.
♪ ♪ >> So, my friend Christopher Lujan, my source of blue corn, and chicos.
The chicos are roasted in the horno.
>> STONE: So you dry it first, and then you roast it?
>> No, you leave it overnight, and what it does, it steam bakes it.
It brings out that husk flavor.
It's just the aroma of it.
It's just like... it's incredible.
>> STONE: It's so good.
>> It's fabulous.
>> It's very juicy inside.
(laughter) >> STONE: You know, like, in mixed company, that could mean many things.
"You've got very nice chicos," but right now, I'm telling you, these are fabulous.
>> This is what people tell me.
My chicos are the best.
>> Okay, don't be promoting yourself.
I've got to tell you, his chicos are the best.
(laughter) >> STONE: Well, how do you get it off the cob?
>> I have this sheller here.
You just drop this here, and it turns the cob.
♪ ♪ And it just shoots out the cob on this other side.
>> That is phenomenal.
>> STONE: So, Chris, how are you going to use the chico in your cooking?
>> So we're making the green chili stew.
We're going to add the chicos and mix them in.
This adds a whole other layer of flavor onto it.
>> And texture.
>> Absolutely.
>> You're already tasting the flavor.
(laughter) >> That is blue corn.
You going to grind some for us?
>> Yeah, same process.
Really amazing machine.
See how it's doing it?
>> Who invented that?
>> Cornwell Huskington.
(laughter) >> In the old days, what they'd do is hand grind it, and now we've got this stone grinder.
(grinder whirring) >> So what are the flavor profiles of blue corn as opposed to yellow or a white sweet corn?
>> Blue corn has more pungency to it.
It sounds silly, but more of a corn flavor.
>> STONE: It's cornier.
(laughter) I'm so intrigued by this.
I'm thinking of cooking, like, a really rustic blue corn fritter.
>> It should be delicious.
>> Maybe on top of that we'll put a smear of crème fraîche.
>> With the green chili in it.
>> STONE: Ooh, yeah.
>> With some of those beautiful heirloom tomatoes that we picked up from the market today.
>> STONE: Hallelujah.
Will you come for dinner tonight, and let us cook you dinner?
>> Yes.
>> Love to see you.
>> Thank you so much.
>> Okay, I have a problem-- I can't stop eating the chicos.
>> Yeah, I share the similar affliction.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> This is my home in Taos, New Mexico.
And I constructed this home specifically for cooking and for teaching cooking.
♪ ♪ >> STONE: Tell me what you're cooking tonight.
>> We're doing green chili stew and lamb tacos.
>> STONE: I love that.
Horton?
>> Well, I'm about to make beef tartare.
>> STONE: Oh, nice.
>> I've got some nice hot green chilies over here.
I was kind of feeling the green chili vibe, wanted to show off northern New Mexico cooking.
And I thought steak tartare would go really well with green chili aioli.
>> STONE: I'm so intrigued by this blue cornmeal and these tomatoes.
These beauties rival tomatoes anywhere I've seen in the world.
>> They're fabulous, and they're grown just down the road.
>> STONE: So I thought what I'd do is a really rustic corn fritter.
>> Right on.
>> STONE: So to make my batter, I'm going to take some of that blue corn.
I'm just eyeballing this.
I've never made it, obviously, but we'll see how it goes.
A little bit of all-purpose flour.
A little baking powder.
And I'm going to put just a tiny bit of that chili powder.
And then I went for a little excursion with your son Milo, what a sweet kid.
He showed me his chickens, and he picked some eggs.
(chickens clucking) But I saw these onions.
What are they?
>> Those are Egyptian walking onions.
>> STONE: You didn't bring them from Egypt with you, did you?
>> No, no, no.
My wife planted them.
They're absolutely delicious, and they grow like crazy.
We give them away every year to our friends.
>> STONE: So I need some eggs, and I know just the man to ask.
Hey, Milo, buddy, come over here.
So these eggs we just picked up from the chicken coop, would you crack me, like, four of those in there?
So who's a better cook: mom or dad?
>> Dad.
>> Yeah, good boy.
(laughter) >> I'll give you a buck later.
Come on, do it with one hand.
No shell.
>> STONE: Oh, yeah, good job.
Give it a whisk for me, and then I'm going to add just a little milk.
Sweet corn cut straight off the cob.
A little bit of salt.
Mate, I think we're pretty good.
I'm going to call you back when it's time to cook these.
Is that all right?
>> Yep.
>> STONE: Thanks, buddy.
This beautiful basil, it's just stunning.
I wouldn't think that you'd grow such delicate herbs in Taos.
I think of this climate as being really harsh.
>> The harshness comes from altitude.
Right now we're standing at 7,700 feet.
>> STONE: (whistles) I'm just going to sprinkle a little balsamic vinegar and just a touch of extra virgin olive oil.
And then just keep slicing tomatoes.
We'll just keep layering it up so it kind of develops a bit of a marinade.
Horton, you were going to do something with crème fraîche for me, right?
>> Yeah, I think I'm going to do red chili crème fraîche.
since we're doing green chili aioli.
>> STONE: Yeah.
>> Switch it up a little bit.
>> STONE: I love that.
>> Give this a whisk, see how it tastes.
More red chili, for sure.
When I have friends over for dinner, I take my ego out of it.
I want to make delicious food.
There's nothing in the world that makes me happier than making people happy with my food.
And I try to bring that every day when I cook.
I think we're there.
>> For the lamb tacos, this is a boneless lamb shoulder raised about 30 miles from here.
We're stuffing it with half cloves of garlic.
And then we're rubbing the outside with extra garlic, salt and pepper, and finishing it with olive oil.
That's going to go into the wood-burning oven, and roast until medium to medium rare.
It's going to be fabulous.
>> STONE: I'm going to start cooking these fritters.
And all I need is my sous chef Milo.
Milo!
Oh, brother, we are going to fry some fritters.
So what we're going to do is pick up a pretty big spoon, like, that kind of size, bring it over here to the oil, and just be careful, and hope that it floats.
Good job.
And I'll just flip them around because we want them to get golden brown.
So you've got three dogs, two bunnies.
How many chickens?
>> 16.
>> STONE: 16 chickens!
>> Including the baby chicken.
They almost look like meatballs.
>> STONE: They do a bit, don't they?
Next let's make a mess on the plate first.
So if you just dip your spoon in, and then like do like that, and then just sort of pull it through.
A little bit of abstract art.
That's going to give our tomatoes somewhere to land.
But I'm not going to use all the herbs.
Just going to place them right down the center, go for whatever colors you like; this one is a beauty Looks good.
So then let's have a look at our fritters.
So we can tear them open.
Then we just get a little bit of this sauce.
And this is where all those nice herbs come in.
A little bit of salt, and that's it.
Try that.
Give it a score out of ten.
>> Nine and a half.
>> STONE: Oh, yes!
Well done.
Tell me what you're making.
>> We're doing green chili stew, which is one of the quintessential dishes of northern New Mexico.
>> STONE: There's a ton of onions in this.
>> Once they're sautéed, they're going to go down to nothing.
So now I'm going to put garlic in.
>> STONE: Yes.
>> Coriander.
>> STONE: Right.
>> This is whole toasted cumin seed, and five pounds of fire-roasted green chilies.
>> STONE: Amazing.
>> And that's the body of the stew.
>> STONE: You know, one thing that really stands out to me about this dish, and so many dishes that I've experienced in New Mexico, is I think of chili peppers as something you add for just a little heat or a little spice.
But here quite often you think about it as the center of the dish.
Like, this is a stew of green chilies.
>> Correct.
>> STONE: Oh, smells amazing.
>> I can smell it over here, guys.
>> STONE: It's beautiful, isn't it?
>> Smells great.
>> Ten more minutes, then we'll add the potatoes and the stock.
>> STONE: Okay, good; well, what are you up to, Horton?
>> Well, I'm about to make our green chili aioli for the beef tartare.
>> STONE: Nice.
>> Go ahead and whack some minced garlic in there.
>> STONE: Yep.
>> Some of this beautiful fire roasted green chili.
Stuff's pretty hot, so look out.
>> STONE: Comes with your passport.
When you move to New Mexico, you get a never-ending supply of green chili, and you have to use it all the time.
>> I'm still not sick of it.
>> STONE: Me neither.
Let's go ahead and throw some lime in here, get our acid right.
Egg yolks.
You don't get color like that from any other eggs in the grocery store.
>> STONE: Milo does a good job.
>> He is quite the eggsman.
Salt and sugar here.
>> STONE: Salt and sugar.
>> All about the balance.
>> STONE: Why salt and sugar?
>> We're cooking, baby.
>> STONE: I like that.
>> Let's go ahead, get this thing rocking.
(processor whirring) Emulsify this with some neutral oil.
>> STONE: This is the best way of doing it.
>> I defy anyone to make better aioli in a bowl than you can make at home in a Cuisinart.
>> STONE: So true.
I bet that's full of flavor.
Oh, my God.
>> That's right about where you want it.
>> STONE: Let's quit our restaurants and start bottling the stuff.
(laughs) >> Go ahead and spread that on the crostini.
Take some of our beef.
Dress these babies up.
Going to put a little bit of shallot.
We've got some beautiful cornichons here, chopped up.
These are raw peas, and that's just going to bring the vegetal quality of this dish up exponentially.
We've got these beautiful carrots we got earlier today at the farmers' market.
A little bit of the sea salt, and finish it off with a little bit of olive oil.
Let's see what we've got, gentlemen-- dig in.
>> Gorgeous.
The smoothness of it and the flavor of the beef is just so subtle and nice.
>> STONE: That's going to get this feast started off right.
♪ ♪ >> Beef tartare?
>> Yes, please.
>> Just grab it and...
Beef tartare, green chili aioli, and topped with some fresh veggies we picked up at the farmers market today.
>> Oh, awesome.
>> Awesome.
>> STONE: Is it good?
>> Just the right amount of kick.
>> Curtis, this is my husband Matthew.
>> STONE: Hey, Matthew.
>> Matthew, Chef Stone.
>> Delicious.
>> STONE: We had so much fun looking around your village.
It's really quite something.
>> And I came home so excited and bubbly.
(indistinct chatter) ♪ ♪ >> What you're having right now is my green chili stew.
It's made with pork.
And that is unique, which are chicos from Christopher Lujan's farm on the pueblo.
Chicos are chewy, which is really nice.
We were eating them raw at his farm.
We couldn't stop.
>> STONE: Oh, so good.
(laughter) >> So enjoy.
>> Thank you.
(applause) ♪ ♪ >> Chris, how did you like the green chili stew?
>> It was really great.
>> Did you enjoy it?
>> Very much.
>> The chicos I've had before are very crunchy.
>> We put the chicos in five minutes before I served it.
>> Wow!
>> And they went from really crunchy to al dente.
>> Almost al dente, yeah, exactly.
>> We should try that.
>> Yeah, we're going to do that.
♪ ♪ >> I'm slicing up the fat very small.
Where's the cabbage?
We got cabbage?
>> Oui.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> We're doing a lamb taco.
And the lamb is from Tierra Amarilla, right over the mountains here, cooked in a wood-burning oven.
Below the lamb on the taco is a lime cilantro jalapeño sauce.
And of course, local pinto beans.
>> STONE: We had the pleasure of coming out to the pueblo this morning.
So I took that blue cornmeal, and I made fried crispy corn fritters seated over top of tomato, with a little sauce that Mr. Horton made from crème fraîche and red chili.
>> Oui.
>> STONE: Bon appétit.
>> Wow.
(applause) (dog barking) >> STONE: Even the dog's happy.
♪ ♪ Taos, what a fantastic place.
I don't know what I liked more-- the incredible mountains, or the beautiful produce, or meeting some unbelievable locals.
Who knows, maybe next time we'll be in your backyard.
Cheers.
♪ ♪ (laughter, chattering) ♪ ♪ >> For more information about this episode, recipes, and behind-the-scenes fun, make sure you go to Relish.com, follow us, @MoveableFeast_TV, on Instagram, and like us on Facebook.
See you next time on a Moveable Feast with Relish.
>> Major funding provided by: >> Ladies and gentlemen, your attention, please.
(gecko clears throat, feedback squeals) >> GEICO would like to take a moment to say thank you to our military service members at home and abroad for all their hard work and sacrifice.
We all sleep easier knowing you're out there keeping us safe.
And on a personal note... (jet engines roar, gecko's speech muffled) (crowd cheering) (exhales) Just needed to get that off my chest.
Thank you.
>> GEICO-- proudly supporting the military for over 75 years.
>> We can't just take from nature, so we collaborate.
Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way.
♪ ♪ >> Ocean Spray is a proud sponsor of Moveable Feast.
>> At Pure Leaf, the most important ingredient in making tea is saying no.
We're committed to saying no to artificial flavors and sweeteners in our brewed iced teas.
♪ ♪ >> I am Errico Auricchio, the founder of BelGioioso Cheese.
I came in 1979 from Italy with my family and the memory of Italian cheese.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> I am rolling.
>> ALEX: We're in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
Welcome to Ogunquit, Maine.
Today we're in Boston.
We're in Martha's Vineyard.
We're headed to Cottage City Oysters.
♪ ♪ And how often do you hand-shape them?
>> Every time we handle the oyster, we're actually chipping them by hand.
>> This time of year, we've consolidated a lot of the growing to this little market garden right here.
>> You can try, too, if you want to cut one.
>> ALEX: I would love to.
>> Yeah, perfect.
>> ALEX: Nailed it.
♪ ♪ We're doing something a little unusual today.
I'm milking a cow, oh, my God.
♪ ♪ (cow moos) >> So we're going to hop on into the bog.
So you just want to stay right on these planks till you get to the end.
We don't want you to go swimming yet.
>> ALEX: No!
Knowing me, I'm going to fall in.
This dish is a celebration of ingredients here in New England.
♪ ♪ This is real farm cooking.
>> Farm cooking.
♪ ♪ >> ALEX: This guy's a big guy.
(laughter) I just wanted to say thank you for joining us for tonight's feast.
♪ ♪ Eggs are very temperamental.
>> Correct.
>> It's amazing to be able to watch the steps go and then... (indistinct chatter, laughter) ♪ ♪ >> ALEX: Cheers, everybody.
Thank you for having us.
>> Thank you.
>> ALEX: Cheers, everybody.
(people whooping) ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪


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