♪ ♪ (Rudy Maxa) I'm sailing the warm waters of the Andaman Sea in search of an island paradise with pristine white beaches, secret coves, spicy, flavorable food, and spectacular sunsets.

The only trouble is choosing.

Paradisiacal spots are everywhere here on Thailand's Andaman Coast.

(woman) "Rudy Maxa's World," proudly sponsored by The Leading Hotels of the World.

Quests for travel begin at LHW.com, where you'll discover a collection of nearly 450 unique hotels worldwide... including the distinctive family of Taj hotels, resorts, and palaces.

♪ ♪ Every quest has a beginning-- online at LHW.com.

Additional funding for "Rudy Maxa's World" provided by: Medjet.com, medical evacuation membership protection for travelers.

Take trips, not chances.

And by... Yokoso!

Or "Welcome to Japan," And by Delta--serving hundreds of destinations worldwide.

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♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ Southern Thailand's Andaman Islands are a haven for sun worshipers, wind surfers, and divers.

Phuket Island is famous for its endless white sand beaches and lavish resorts.

Yet there's much more to these islands than surf and sand.

Traditional fishing villages and sea gypsies make their home among these islands, and spectacular limestone formations reveal hidden worlds deep within.

Phuket is Thailand's largest island.

It lies off the country's southern coastline in the Andaman Sea.

♪ ♪ Phuket is a launching point for exploring many of the Andaman's smaller islands.

The Song Thai, a 2-masted Indonesian Schooner, makes daily voyages from Phuket to the surrounding islands.

Few things are as relaxing as sailing the tropical waters of the Andaman Sea or walking the white sands of isolated beaches.

In Thailand, it's possible to find small islands where everyday worries slip away in the unhurried rhythm of wind and water, sunrise, and sunset.

♪ ♪ Just off Phuket's southern tip is Buddha Island, a small secluded spot where monks come to meditate.

Aside from the monks, not much else is here, and that's perhaps the island's greatest appeal.

♪ ♪ Buddha Island is just one in a series of small islands surrounding Phuket.

Some of the neighboring islands are better known, not for their beaches, but for their spectacular coral reefs.

♪ ♪ [loud splash & gurgling] ♪ ♪ Coral reefs evolved between 250 and 400 million years ago.

♪ ♪ There are more than 600 distinct species of coral, and reefs are home to an even greater diversity of fish.

♪ ♪ Back aboard ship a performance is underway, and what could be a more fitting setting for sea gypsy music than a vessel at sea?

♪ ♪ The folk music of Ussaleemala takes its inspiration from the ancient rhythmic sounds of Rong-Ngeng.

Like the sea gypsies themselves, the music is a mix of different cultural influences.

Koom, the band's leader, talks about some of these influences.

This is, we call Rong-Ngeng, the music combination from Asia and Europe.

That means violin and glong.

That's what we call Glong Ramana.

So it's a blend of European and Asian music.

Is that about 200 years old?

About 400 years ago.

400 years ago?

From Portugal Portugal, Holland.

Yeah.

(Rudy) Koom set out to preserve this ancient music by preserving the traditional rhythm and sound.

♪ ♪ The fishermen's songs reflect common themes for those out at sea.

The songs are about missing loved ones and the rigors of life at sea.

Koom grew up among the Andaman Islands, and for him, the music of Ussaleemala is the sounds of a vanishing way of life, a seafaring culture that's disappearing from the islands.

♪ ♪ Today a sea of yellow sails covers Nai Yang Beach as windsurfers from around the world prepare for Thailand's first international windsurfing rally.

The rally is held in honor of his Majesty the King for his 80th birthday.

The King, revered in Thailand, was born on a Monday, and yellow is the traditional Buddhist color associated with Monday.

Athletes from 21 different countries will participate in the event.

I had a chance to speak with Peter Wells, an American from Newport Beach, California.

It's not a race for points or prize money or anything like that, more of an international goodwill event to celebrate the King's birthday, but Thailand also invited us all here, and we're all happy to be here.

[a horn sounds] ♪ ♪ The race begins with what seems like an awkward start.

But once on the water, the true grace of the sport is realized.

Each day for the next 4 days, these windsurfers will journey a total of 60 miles from Phuket's north end to the very southern tip.

Thailand's in first place at the moment, which is appropriate enough.

We got a request for a water from the entrant from Italy.

See if we can deliver it.

Okay.

♪ ♪ Suddenly the wind's died down.

There's very, very little wind.

It's amazing they're all still standing.

At times, surfers desperately try to move forward by creating their own wind.

♪ ♪ On their long journey south, these windsurfers will pass some of Phuket's most breathtaking beaches.

♪ ♪ The beaches of Phuket and throughout Thailand are public property, so while resorts gobble up beachfront sites, the sand remains free for everyone.

♪ ♪ 30-some years ago, backpackers stumbled upon Phuket and what a jaw-dropping discovery it was-- lovely white beaches lined with only grass huts.

The loveliness hasn't faded, but the loneliness has.

4 to 5 million tourists annually make this 30-mile island their holiday paradise.

Still, there remains secluded bays and golden sunset beaches.

Miles of gorgeous beaches are the reason for Phuket's wealth today.

The beaches of the West Coast range from sweet, lonely bays to an action-packed people-watching extravaganza.

♪ The most rowdy and tourist-filled is Patong.

By day it swarms with jet skiers, long-tail boats, parasailers, and sunbathers recovering from last night's party.

♪ ♪ The nightlife ranges from bars and cafes to discos and girly bars.

If you're in the mood for a little entertainment, check out one of the Thai boxing matches.

It's hard not to miss the lively advertisement.

Or hang out at the bar as your bartender whips up something fiery.

Then stroll the crowded streets packed with nightclubs and bars until you settle on a venue.

There's no end to the variety of nightlife here.

[woman speaks Thai] Thank you, not now, but thank you.

♪ ♪ Phang Nga Bay on the east side of Phuket is one of the most spectacular natural marvels on the planet.

A maze of monster limestone pillars rise out of the ocean to form a chain of more than 40 islands.

These spectacular limestone formations hold secrets deep within.

To explore this hidden world, we will literally go inside the island.

♪ ♪ The brittle limestone is eroded by rainwater, hollowing out large rooms, or hongs, in the center of the islands.

Wow, this is gorgeous!

This is dramatic, very dramatic!

(man) Come on in Rudy.

(Rudy) Naturalistic John Gray has been exploring the hongs of Phang Nga Bay for nearly 20 years.

This is the hong or Thai for "room."

(John) Exactly, yeah.

(Rudy) This is the room on the island.

Oh my goodness!

This is so stunning!

It's so quiet, and it's almost-- I mean, this is the old original forest primeval, isn't it?

Stone primeval.

(John) Yeah.

(Rudy) Limestone primeval.

When I first came here on January 24, 1989... Was there anyone here?

No.

Nobody here at all.

Take your breath away?

Oh sure.

Yeah, it was absolutely spectacular.

It's so spectacular, I never get bored with it.

♪ ♪ (Rudy) Anyone know how old this stone is?

(John) It varies, but it's anywhere from 200 to 360 million years.

(Rudy) So in high tide some hongs are inaccessible.

(John) Oh, absolutely, yeah, and it's very easy to get caught inside.

I've rescued many folks that get trapped in the hong on high tide.

(Rudy) Oh my goodness!

(John) It's a pretty spooky experience.

(Rudy) I'm about to find out just how spooky it can get.

♪ ♪ Inflatable kayaks squeeze through narrow gaps only 11 inches high.

♪ ♪ Inside the island is a vast network of narrow caves.

Bats cling to the ceiling above our heads.

♪ ♪ Entering the hong is like drifting into Arthur Conan Doyle's "Lost World," an entire universe isolated from the outside.

These hongs are micro ecosystems unto themselves.

Inside the shallow lagoon is a fragile world, home to a diversity of species, some found only here.

In the center of the hong is a thriving forest of mangroves, their twisted roots providing a home for crabs and mudskippers.

Above, the distant call of hornbills can be heard.

And along the edge, crab-eating macaques scurry for cover.

As the tide rises, getting out of the hong is even more challenging than getting in.

[putt-putt of a motor] Among Phang Nga Bay's hidden treasures are a scattering of small fishing villages.

Some have been around for more than 200 years.

The island of Koh Yao Noi, it's like stepping back in time.

What is life like here for the people?

[with Thai accent] The people here, no money.

They come from Indonesia or Malaysia.

Like fishing people, they come to look for some land or some island to live here.

But this island is perfect to live.

Like a nice natural and enough room for together live here.

(Rudy) Most of the people are Muslim?

(man) Muslim, 99% Muslim people right here.

(Rudy) How many people live on the island?

(man) More than 5000 now.

Guess, how many have ever been to Bangkok?

Just 10% from.... Maybe 500?

So they like to stay right here.

Yeah.

(Rudy) Kusama was once a fisherman, but now works as a guide.

He grew up on the island and now lives here with his family.

The quaint fishing village of Koh Yao Noi has changed little over the years.

People here still largely depend upon the bounty of the sea.

Long-tail boats are the most common vessel.

They're wood canoes outfitted with large car engines and long tails with a prop on the end.

The boats are designed to navigate shallow channels at low tide.

♪ ♪ It's a difficult existence for traditional fishermen.

Yet despite their hardships, the people here are warm and welcoming.

♪ ♪ I'm here at the Phuket Market with Pat Tienthong, a local chef who's going to teach me the secrets of Thai cuisine.

Pat, how often do you shop in a market?

(Pat, with Thai accent) We shop every day.

(Rudy) Every day for that day's food?

(Pat) Yeah, that day food.

(Rudy) The key to Thai cooking is to use fresh ingredients.

You like to smell, the kaffi lime leaf?

Oh yes, I smell Thai food.

This are the curry paste.

The curry paste, the chili base.

Yeah.

This is green one that we will use today.

And this red stuff, red curry paste.

And what are these?

That's for the south people.

Special for the south people who can take it really hot?

Really hot.

(Rudy) What are we making here, Pat?

Chicken Green Curry.

In Thai they call Gang Kiew Wan Gai.

What we have, we have chicken.

We have eggplant.

What else do we have?

Sweet basil.

Sweet basil.

This is a kaffir lime leaf, the one you smell many in Thai food.

I could just inhale this all day.

Beautiful smell, beautiful fragrance.

And good for your hair.

Well, we don't have to worry about that too much!

Now it's time to cut the eggplant.

Will you not follow me?

I'll follow you.

Yeah, we go together.

Everything is hands on in my class.

♪ ♪ (Pat) Okay, that's enough.

(Rudy) There goes the mother of all curry pastes.

♪ ♪ [coughs] Wow, well, that clears the sinuses!

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ Now see, this is re colorful than 4 of the plates I make at home generally.

This has got more colors going on here-- orange, 18 shades of green.

Um-hum... Pat, this is fabulous!

♪ (Rudy) After the tsunami, many travelers who'd experienced the beauty and the joy of the Andaman Coast returned to help with the relief effort.

In Ban Talae Nok, one project offers visitors the opportunity to support and experience life in a traditional fishing village.

The 2004 Tsunami killed 47 of the village's 228 residents and washed away half the houses.

Western volunteers established Andaman Discovery to help villagers recover and rebuild their lives.

♪ ♪ Now, this village looks fairly new.

This is the tsunami village that was rebuilt to replace the 20 houses that were destroyed from the old village.

(Rudy) Kelly May works for Andaman Discoveries.

Her life was completely turned around by the tragic tsunami.

Now, how did you wind up in southern Thailand?

I was based in Bangkok originally working as the publisher of a celebrity magazine, then I heard on the news that the tsunami had struck.

After seeing all the devastating news in the newspapers and TV, I knew I couldn't stay in Bangkok.

So I jumped on a plane, came down, and was volunteering in the morgue.

Then I went back to Bangkok, couldn't get back into the corporate world after experiencing everything I had, so I decided to join an organization that was started by Bodhi Garrett called the North Andaman Tsunami Relief.

Kelly now works full time for Andaman Discoveries helping to support small coastal villages through low impact community-based tourism.

At Ban Talae Nok, tourists can stay with a local family, catch their own dinner with fishermen, and learn traditional skills that are part of daily life here.

(Kelly) Community-based tourism is a chance for people to have a real authentic experience, to really get to know the local way of life of the people, and it's also a way that tourists or volunteers can actually give something back to community.

80% of the cost of the trip goes straight back to the people-- the home stays, the boat guides, and also includes a 20% community fund which is used to sponsor the community center and community aerobics and youth education.

♪ ♪ [putt-putt of the engine] ♪ ♪ (Rudy) This morning I'm going fishing with the men of Ban Talae Nok.

♪ ♪ My nets are strung out from wooden long-tail boats.

Bamboo markers keep the line suspended like a curtain in the water.

For generations, the villagers of Ban Talae Nok have fished these waters.

But fishing is not the same as it once was.

10 or 15 years ago the day's catch would've been much bigger, but overfishing by commercial fisheries in these waters has depleted the stocks.

No longer can the fishermen rely on their catch to sustain themselves.

It's this crisis that makes the success of community-based tourism so important.

But the most unusual sight at Ban Talae Nok happens only once a day.

Like some ancient ritual, buffalo gather at the water's edge.

♪ ♪ Every night at sunset, as they have for generations, the water buffalo of Ban Talae Nok come bathe in the Andaman Sea.

There are few places that feel as peaceful and quiet as the beaches of Ban Talae Nok.

It's easy to see the attraction of simply wallowing in the shallows.

As the sea and sky merge in a golden glow, I think of what draws one here-- the eternal search for that perfect paradise.

♪ ♪ Gone are the days when you stayed on Phuket in a simple bungalow for a few bucks.

On the other hand, better roads, modern facilities, and all kinds of dining options make the island a first-class tourist destination.

Phuket's hippest resort is Indigo Pearl on secluded Nai Yang Beach.

The architecture is inspired by Phuket's tin mining past, and the hotel resembles a Thai factory from the turn of the 19th century.

Industrial design taken to the extreme with exquisite attention paid to every detail right down to the place setting at Tin Mine Restaurant.

Dive into any one of the 3 spectacular pools or lounge in your own private one.

And if it's the beach you want, it's practically at your doorstep.

They say you haven't seen Phuket until you've seen the sunset from Phromthep Cape.

At the southernmost tip of Phuket, a rocky stretch of land reaches out into the Andaman Sea.

From here, sunset is a spectacle that draws people from all over the island.

♪ ♪ Phuket and the Andaman Islands combine the ideal pleasures of a tropical retreat-- languid, do-nothing days on stunning white sand beaches and outdoor adventure.

From the utterly captivating underwater world to the serenity of gliding between limestone towers in a kayak to serene fishing villages, there's no shortage of mind-blowing beauty, cultural exploration, and sybaritic delights.

The biggest problem here is one that Buddha knew well.

It's way too easy to become attached to Phuket and suffer when it's time to go home.

♪ ♪ In Thailand, there's an expression, "Sabai Sabai," which means no worries, take it easy, I'm chill.

In Phuket, it's more than a phrase.

It's a state of being, and I hope to take a little of that home with me.

Reporting from Phuket, I'm Rudy Maxa.

Sawadee khrap.

(woman) For information on the places featured in "Rudy Maxa's World," along with other savvy traveling tips, visit... To order DVDs of "Rudy Maxa's World" or the CD of world music from the series, call or visit... ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ Cc--Armour Captioning & Twin Cities Public Television ♪ ♪ "Rudy Maxa's World," proudly sponsored by The Leading Hotels of the World.

Quests for travel begin at LHW.com, where you'll discover a collection of nearly 450 unique hotels worldwide, Including the distinctive family of Taj hotels, resorts, and palaces.

Every quest has a beginning, online at LHW.com.

Additional funding for Rudy Maxa's World provided by Medjet.com, medical evacuation membership protection for travelers.

Take trips, not chances.

And by... Yokoso!

Or "Welcome to Japan."

And by Delta--serving hundreds of destinations worldwide.

Information to plan your next trip available at delta.com.

[orchestral fanfare] ♪ ♪