
Thailand From Golden Triangle to White Sands
6/5/2010 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Joseph travels for a bit of relaxation in the turquoise waters of the Krabi Peninsula.
Joseph travels south from Bangkok for a bit of rest and relaxation in the turquoise waters and on the fashionable beaches of the Krabi Peninsula then north to Myanmar and Laos to continue his adventure in the infamous Golden Triangle. He uncovers what Thais are doing to transform the Triangle’s ancient opium production to pursuits that will improve the lives of the area’s many Hill Tribe people.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Joseph Rosendo’s Travelscope is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Thailand From Golden Triangle to White Sands
6/5/2010 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Joseph travels south from Bangkok for a bit of rest and relaxation in the turquoise waters and on the fashionable beaches of the Krabi Peninsula then north to Myanmar and Laos to continue his adventure in the infamous Golden Triangle. He uncovers what Thais are doing to transform the Triangle’s ancient opium production to pursuits that will improve the lives of the area’s many Hill Tribe people.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
How to Watch Joseph Rosendo’s Travelscope
Joseph Rosendo’s Travelscope is available to stream on pbs.org and the free PBS App, available on iPhone, Apple TV, Android TV, Android smartphones, Amazon Fire TV, Amazon Fire Tablet, Roku, Samsung Smart TV, and Vizio.
Buy Now
Providing Support for PBS.org
Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship>> male announcer: WELCOME TO TRAVELSCOPE, WITH JOSEPH ROSENDO, WHERE EACH WEEK, YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT.
>> Rosendo: THIS WEEK ON TRAVELSCOPE, I CONTINUE MY THAILAND ADVENTURE WHEN I TRAVEL SOUTH TO KRABI PROVINCE FOR ISLAND PLEASURES AND THEN HEAD NORTH FOR CULTURAL ADVENTURES IN THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE.
>> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.
DK CITY, COUNTRY, AND DRIVING GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, 3-D MAPPING, AND ILLUSTRATIONS FOR KEY SITES AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.
DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.
>> Rosendo: [speaking native language] FROM BAMBOO ISLAND AND THE BEACHES OF SOUTHERN THAILAND.
JOIN ME AS I CONTINUE MY THAILAND ADVENTURE.
AFTER SUBMERGING MYSELF IN BANGKOK'S CULTURAL SOUP, I HEAD TO THE SOUTHERN PROVINCE OF KRABI FOR A SEASIDE RESPITE AMONG ITS MANY ISLAND RETREATS.
[exotic instrumental music] ♪ ♪ TALK ABOUT A CHANGE OF PACE.
I'M ONLY AN HOUR FROM BANGKOK, AND THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BANGKOK AND KRABI IS DRAMATIC.
♪ ♪ BEHIND ME IS BAMBOO ISLAND, ONE OF THE ABOUT 150 ISLANDS THAT ARE IN THE KRABI AREA.
IT'S ALSO PART OF THE NATIONAL MARINE PARK THAT INCLUDES PHI PHI DON AND PHI PHI LEH.
IT'S A WONDERFUL NATURAL AREA, GREAT FOR SUNBATHING, SNORKELING, ANYTHING THAT YOU CAN THINK OF TO DO THAT WILL ALLOW YOU TO TAKE IN THE BEAUTY HERE IN THIS PART OF THAILAND.
TONG AND I HAVE COME OUT HERE TO THAILAND BAY, AND WE'RE GOING TO FIND OUT ABOUT THE MANGROVES AND HOW THEY HELP KEEP THE BAY AND THE AREA ALIVE.
>> THE PEOPLE HERE, THEY ACKNOWLEDGE THE VALUES OF THE MANGROVE, SO THEY PROTECT IT.
>> Rosendo: WELL, I KNOW THAT THE MANGROVE IS A VERY, VERY AMAZING PLANT.
IT TAKES THE SALT OUT OF THE SALTWATER AND MAKES IT FRESH SO THAT IT CAN GROW, AND THESE PODS THAT HANG FROM THEM ARE ACTUALLY SEED PODS, AND THEY'RE LIKE A LITTLE TORPEDO THAT GOES STRAIGHT DOWN INTO THE MUD, IMBEDS ITSELF IN THE MUD, AND THEN THE MANGROVE COMES RIGHT OUT OF IT.
IT'S LIKE MAGIC.
>> YES, YES.
>> Rosendo: IT'S FABULOUS.
WHAT KIND OF SEA LIFE LIVES IN THE MANGROVES?
>> WELL, WE HAVE MANY KIND OF FISH, CRABS, AND MANY KIND OF SEASHELL.
YOU CAN SEE MONKEYS, MANY WILD MONKEY.
LOOK AT THAT.
ON YOUR RIGHT-HAND SIDE, WE HAVE SOME ROCK ORCHID.
DO YOU KNOW THE RHODODENDRON?
>> Rosendo: YES.
>> YEAH, IT LOOKS SIMILAR.
>> Rosendo: BEAUTIFUL.
BUT, YOU KNOW, IT DOESN'T MATTER IF YOU DON'T SEE ANYTHING, BECAUSE IT'S JUST BEAUTIFUL BEING HERE, A MANGROVE ADVENTURE.
WATCH YOUR HEAD.
WATCH YOUR HEAD.
>> THANK YOU.
YES, JOSEPH, WE HAVE A TIME LIMIT, BECAUSE WE HAVE TO LEAVE THE LAGOONS BEFORE THE WATER GOING TOO LOW.
OTHERWISE, YOU DON'T HAVE ENOUGH WATER TO PADDLE OUT OF THE LAGOON.
>> Rosendo: WELL, LET'S MAKE SURE WE GET OUT IN PLENTY OF TIME.
>> [laughs] NO WORRY, JOSEPH.
WE WILL TAKE YOU OUT.
[chirping noise] >> Rosendo: TONG, WHAT IS THAT NOISE?
>> THIS IS THE SOUND FROM THE CRICKET.
WE CALL IT THE SOUND OF NATURE.
>> Rosendo: OH, THIS IS LIKE A FANTASY LAND.
>> THIS IS THE CANYON OF KRABI.
YOU KNOW, WHEN WE ARE INSIDE THE CANYON, WE WILL JUST STAY QUIET AND LISTEN TO THE SOUND OF NATURE.
[crickets chirping] >> Rosendo: [exhales] WERE YOU BORN IN KRABI?
>> YES, I WAS BORN HERE, SO I LOVE NATURE HERE, THE NATURE OF KRABI.
>> Rosendo: NOW, DO YOU WORRY ABOUT THE DEVELOPMENT, BECAUSE THERE'S A LOT OF DEVELOPMENT IN KRABI.
>> WELL, I THINK WE CAN'T STOP THE GROWING--THE DEVELOPMENTS-- BUT I THINK PEOPLE SHOULD LEARN AND UNDERSTAND NATURE AND TRY TO LIVE WITH IT FOR THE SUSTAINABLE.
>> Rosendo: SO YOU CAN'T STOP THE DEVELOPMENT, BUT YOU CAN STILL PROTECT NATURE.
>> YES, THAT'S MY IDEA.
YEAH.
>> Rosendo: OF THE 150 OR SO ISLANDS THAT ARE IN THE KRABI AREA, PHI PHI DON IS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR.
IT WAS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND THEREFORE BECAME THE MOST COMMERCIAL WITH RESTAURANT AFTER RESTAURANT AND ACCOMMODATIONS, AND THERE IS ALSO A CULTURE THAT STILL SURVIVES HERE.
THEY'RE REFERRED TO AS SEA GYPSIES.
>> ANYTHING WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW?
>> Rosendo: YES, HOW LONG HAVE THE PEOPLE LIVED HERE ON-- >> YEAH, ABOUT OUR HISTORY: SINCE 200 YEARS AGO.
>> Rosendo: 200 YEARS HERE ON THE ISLAND.
>> YES.
>> Rosendo: THAT'S ALL.
>> THAT'S ALL.
>> Rosendo: YOU LOST YOUR LAND, BECAUSE THEY SOLD...DEVELOPMENT.
>> EXACTLY.
>> Rosendo: SO HOW DO YOU MAKE YOUR LIVING NOW, STILL ON THE SEA?
>> Rosendo: WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT TOURISM?
IS IT GOOD OR BAD?
>> Rosendo: NOT SO GOOD.
>> YES.
>> Rosendo: THERE'S A PRICE TO PAY FOR THAT.
>> YEAH.
>> Rosendo: WELL, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
>> YOU'RE WELCOME.
[both speaking native language] >> Rosendo: FROM OUR CHANCE ENCOUNTER WITH THE CHAO LEI, THE "PEOPLE OF THE SEA," TONG AND I TRAVEL INTO A TROPICAL FOREST TO THE TIGER CAVE TEMPLE, A MEDITATION RETREAT, PART OF WHICH IS PERCHED 1,920 FEET AND 1,237 STEPS UP THE MOUNTAIN.
[exhales] >> ARE YOU OKAY?
>> Rosendo: I'M GREAT.
YOU KNOW, YOU HAVE TO MAKE AN EFFORT IF YOU'RE GONNA GET TO NIRVANA, RIGHT?
>> YES.
>> Rosendo: A JOURNEY OF 1,000 STEPS BEGINS AT THE BOTTOM, BUT ULTIMATELY, IT GETS TO THE TOP.
THIS IS LIKE CLIMBING EVEREST.
YOU GET A SENSE OF THRILL WITH YOUR COMPATRIOTS WHO WENT UP WITH YOU.
WOW.
[both speaking native language] >> Rosendo: QUITE A LITTLE CLIMB, BUT MANY STEPS LATER, WE HAVE A SAYING IN SPANISH CULTURES--IN MY CULTURE, WE SAY, VALER LA PENA: "IT'S WORTH THE EFFORT."
>> MM-HMM.
>> Rosendo: OTHERS REGULARLY MAKE THE EFFORT AS PART OF THEIR JOURNEY ALONG BUDDHISM'S EIGHTFOLD PATH.
AS SOMEBODY WHO IS INTERESTED IN MEDITATION, ME--I'M INTERESTED IN MEDITATION--DO YOU HAVE ONE BIT OF ADVICE FOR ME?
>> [speaking native language] >> Rosendo: SO IT HAS TO DO WITH YOUR-- >> Rosendo: SO WITH EACH STEP-- >> Rosendo: GOOD, GOOD.
NO, I AGREE WITH YOU.
I KNOW.
MEDITATION'S GOOD FOR ME.
>> MM.
>> Rosendo: THANK YOU FOR YOUR HEALTH.
[ethereal music] ♪ ♪ >> Rosendo: WHILE THE BUDDHA SLUMBERS ON THE MOUNTAINTOP, LIFE IS JUST BEGINNING IN KRABI'S NIGHT MARKET.
ALL THROUGHOUT ASIA, THE NIGHT MARKETS ARE A HUGE EVENT FOR THE WHOLE COMMUNITY.
PEOPLE COME OUT.
THEY GATHER HERE.
AND FOR THE VISITORS, IT'S WONDERFUL ENTERTAINMENT.
IT'S, LIKE, THE TOP KIND OF ENTERTAINMENT, BECAUSE YOU SEE PEOPLE DOING WHAT THEY WOULD DO ON THEIR REGULAR LIFE, AND ALSO, YOU GET TO FIND SOME VERY UNUSUAL THINGS, AND HERE'S A DURIAN.
WHAT'S INSIDE OF THIS HUGE FRUIT ARE THESE CUSTARDLIKE PODS, AND THEY TASTE JUST LIKE CUSTARD.
IN FACT, YOU KNOW, WHAT THEY SAY ABOUT DURIAN: IT'S THE FRUIT THAT SMELLS LIKE HELL, TASTES LIKE HEAVEN, AND IT'S TRUE.
I'M SURE YOU'VE HEARD ME SAY THIS BEFORE, THAT THE FRUITS OF ASIA ARE A WONDER.
THIS LOOKS LIKE APPLES AND BECOMES VERY PROSAIC WHEN YOU THINK ABOUT SOMETHING LIKE DRAGON FRUIT.
TAKE THE HEAD OF THE DRAGON RIGHT OFF THERE.
AND THESE ARE LYCHEES, WHICH ARE ONE OF MY FAVORITES.
>> 15 BAHT.
>> Rosendo: 15 BAHT.
THANK YOU.
>> THANK YOU.
>> Rosendo: [speaking native language] WELL, THE NIGHT MARKET IN KRABI IS QUITE FUN, AND I ALSO UNDERSTAND THAT PEOPLE COME DOWN HERE AND PICK UP THE FOODS AND GO DOWN TO THE RIVER AND HAVE DINNER RIGHT AFTER COMING TO THE NIGHT MARKET.
MANY OF THE NIGHT MARKETS I'VE BEEN TO AN ASIA ALSO HAVE CLOTHING AND HOUSEHOLD GOODS.
THIS ONE SEEMS TO CONCENTRATE ON PRODUCE, A LITTLE BIT OF MAIN COURSES, THEN PREPARED FOODS FOR EXACTLY THAT REASON.
PICK UP THE FOOD.
TAKE IT DOWN TO THE RIVER OR TAKE IT HOME AND HAVE YOUR MEAL FOR THE NIGHT.
IN ANY CASE, THEY'RE ALWAYS A LOT OF FUN.
THE BRILLIANT SUN THAT SETS IN THE ANDAMAN SEA RISES TO WELCOME ME TO THE ANANTARA RESORT IN NORTHERN THAILAND'S GOLDEN TRIANGLE.
[birds chirping] IT'S BEAUTIFUL AND PEACEFUL HERE IN THE ANANTARA RESORT GOLDEN TRIANGLE RIGHT ON THE MEKONG RIVER.
YOU SEE LAOS AND MYANMAR IN THE DISTANCE, THE BIRDS, THE SUN RISING.
IT'S A GREAT WAY TO START THE DAY.
HERE IN NORTHERN THAILAND, ONE OF THE DESTINATIONS FOR TOURISTS IS SOP RUAK, "THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER."
IT'S WHERE THE RUAK RIVER AND THE MEKONG RIVER COME TOGETHER, AND THE TOWN HAS BECOME A TOURIST CENTER FOR THOSE IN SEARCH OF THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE.
ITS NOTORIETY COMES FROM THE GREAT OPIUM TRADE THAT TOOK PLACE HERE AFTER THE SECOND WORLD WAR AND STILL ADDS A LOT OF COLOR TO THE AREA.
WHILE THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE HAS BEEN NOTORIOUS FOR OPIUM TRADING SINCE THE 1950s, OPIUM POPPIES HAVE BEEN HARVESTED IN INDIA SINCE THE 7TH CENTURY.
THE DRUG WAS SPREAD BY THE COLONIAL POWERS TO CHINA AS A WAY OF BALANCING THEIR TRADE.
BANNED IN CHINA, GREAT BRITAIN FOUGHT TWO OPIUM WARS IN ORDER TO CONTINUE THE TRADE.
AS A RESULT, AT ONE TIME, THERE WERE 14 MILLION CHINESE ADDICTS.
YUNNAN IMMIGRANTS BROUGHT THE DRUG TO THAILAND, WHERE IT FLOURISHED UNTIL 1989, WHEN THE PRINCESS MOTHER INITIATED A CROP SUBSTITUTION PROJECT THAT UPROOTED POPPIES AND SOLD COFFEE, TEA, AND MACADAMIA NUTS INSTEAD.
WE'RE PICKING MACADAMIA NUTS, SO IMAGINE, IF YOU CAN, ALL THESE HILLSIDES COVERED WITH POPPIES AND THEN THE PRINCESS MOTHER COMING UP WITH THE IDEA THAT IF SHE CAN GET THE HILL TRIBE PEOPLE TO SUBSTITUTE OUT THEIR CROPS FROM THE PRODUCTION OF POPPIES FOR OPIUM TO CROPS LIKE MACADAMIA NUTS, THEY WILL NOT ONLY MAKE MORE MONEY AND LIVE BETTER LIVES; IT WILL BE BETTER FOR THE COUNTRY AND CERTAINLY FOR THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT.
CONSIDERING THAT POPPY PRODUCTION USED THE OLD SLASH-AND-BURN TECHNIQUE OF AGRICULTURE, ALL THESE BEAUTIFUL HILLSIDES WOULD BE BLACKENED AT DIFFERENT TIMES OF THE YEAR.
METU IS ONE OF THE WORKERS HERE IN THE PROJECT, AND, METU, WHAT IS YOUR TRIBE?
WHAT IS YOUR HILL TRIBE?
>> [speaking native language] >> Rosendo: AND BEFORE WORKING WITH THE MACADAMIA NUTS, WHAT DID YOUR TRIBE GROW?
>> [speaking native language] >> Rosendo: CORN.
>> [speaking native language] >> Rosendo: IS THIS KIND OF PRODUCTION BETTER FOR YOUR PEOPLE THAN WHAT YOU WERE DOING BEFORE, THAN THE POPPY AND THE OPIUM PRODUCTION?
>> [speaking native language] >> Rosendo: IT WAS BALD BEFORE.
YES.
WELL... [speaking native language] LET'S GO PICK SOME MORE STUFF.
ONE OF THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS FOR PEOPLE WHEN THEY COME TO THE CHIANG RAI PROVINCE IS TO VISIT THE HILL TRIBE COMMUNITIES, AND HOW DO YOU DO THAT IN A RESPECTFUL AND A DECENT WAY?
AND I THINK THAT THE WAY YOU DO IT IS, YOU COME, AND YOU WALK SOFTLY, AND YOU LISTEN, AND YOU WATCH, AND YOU MAKE AS MUCH SENSE OF IT AS YOU CAN IN YOUR LIFE, AND IF YOU CAN BUY SOMETHING TO HELP THE COMMUNITY OR BUY SOME OF THEIR ARTS AND CRAFTS, THAT'S WONDERFUL, BUT THE MAIN THING TO DO IS TO LOOK AND LISTEN, AND IF YOU CAN COMMUNICATE, DO, AND APPRECIATE.
NOW, YOU HAVE A PLACE FOR PEOPLE TO STAY?
>> SOMETIMES.
>> Rosendo: SOMETIMES, SO YOURS IS VERY MODEST.
YOU WELCOME PEOPLE, BACKPACKERS.
DO YOU TEACH THEM ABOUT THE AKHA PEOPLE WHEN THEY'RE HERE?
>> THEY COME HERE.
THEY NEED OUR STUDY.
SOMETIMES THEY GO TO WORK IN THE FIELD AND SOMETIMES GO TO TREKKING.
>> Rosendo: TREKKING, OKAY.
>> AND TREKKING OR JUST GO TO A HILL TRIBE VILLAGE.
>> Rosendo: THEY GO TO ANOTHER VILLAGE.
>> LISU VILLAGE AND LAHU VILLAGE AND TOUCH AKHA LIFE.
>> Rosendo: SO IF PEOPLE STAY HERE, YOU TEACH THEM ABOUT THE AKHA, BUT YOU ALSO TEACH THEM ABOUT THE LISU AND THE OTHER TRIBES AS WELL.
>> YEAH.
>> Rosendo: THAT'S REALLY GREAT.
SO, YOU KNOW, IF YOU REALLY WANT TO HAVE AN EXPERIENCE WITH THE HILL TRIBE PEOPLE, THIS IS ONE WAY TO DO IT.
YOU'LL HAVE A HOMESTAY, AND IN THIS CASE, YOU CAN GET TO TOUCH AKHA LIFE.
THESE DAYS, THE HILL TRIBE PEOPLE ALSO HARVEST TEA INSTEAD OF OPIUM POPPIES.
THE FIRST TEA PLANTS CAME FROM TAIWAN IN THE 1980s.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE FROM WHEN YOU PLANT THE TEA PLANT FOR IT TO BE READY FOR PICKING?
>> ABOUT THREE YEARS.
>> Rosendo: THREE YEARS.
>> IT DEPENDS... HOW DO YOU LOOK AFTER THAT?
IF YOU LOOK AFTER THEM VERY CAREFULLY, THEN TWO YEARS.
>> Rosendo: HOW MANY PEOPLE DO YOU HAVE WORK IN THE FIELDS?
>> ABOUT 50 PEOPLE.
>> Rosendo: 50 PEOPLE.
>> YES, THEY ARE ALL HILL TRIBE PEOPLE, AKHA AND ALSO LISU.
>> Rosendo: THEY COME DRESSED LIKE THIS EVERY DAY?
>> YES, YES, YES.
>> Rosendo: OKAY, NOW, THEY'RE WEIGHING THE TEA LEAVES HERE, AND WE HAVE THE MANAGER, WHO JOTS DOWN HOW MUCH THEY GET, AND, MYAN, HOW MUCH IS THIS?
>> THIS IS SIX KILOS.
>> Rosendo: SIX KILOS.
AND WHAT DO THEY GET PAID, MYAN?
>> 8 BAHT PER KILO.
>> Rosendo: 8 BAHT PER KILO, AND THEY'LL DO MAYBE HOW MANY IN A DAY?
>> FIVE TIMES.
>> Rosendo: FIVE TIMES THEY'LL COME AND DO THAT.
>> JUST HALF THE BASKET, THEN THEY COME UP TO WEIGH ONCE.
>> Rosendo: THAT MAKES A LOT OF SENSE, TO KEEP THE--YOU DON'T WANT TO CRUSH THE TEA LEAVES.
>> WE DON'T WANT TO HURT THE TEA LEAVES.
WE GO TO THE FACTORY NOW.
>> Rosendo: THE TEA LEAVES GO TO THE FACTORY?
>> YES.
>> Rosendo: AND SO DO WE.
IT'S FINISHED DRYING, AND NOW THEY'RE PUTTING IT HERE... >> TO FERMENT, YEAH.
>> Rosendo: AH, OKAY, BEAUTIFUL, AND THEY'LL BE HERE HOW LONG?
>> FOUR EIGHT HOURS FOR FERMENTATION.
SO OOLONG TEA IS SEMI-FERMENTED TEA.
IF WE MAKE GREEN TEA, THEN WE JUST--AFTER PICKING THE TEA LEAVES, TO THE FACTORY, AND THEN WE COOK IT.
THIS PROCESS WE HAVE TO MAKE MANY, MANY TIMES, 40 TO 50 TIMES.
>> Rosendo: SO YOU'RE TAKING MORE OF THE MOISTURE OUT OF IT.
>> YEAH, YEAH, AND THEN VERY-- WHAT DO YOU CALL--CAREFULLY, WE MAKE IT.
YEAH.
>> Rosendo: OKAY, SO THIS IS A SLOW, AN EXCRUCIATINGLY SLOW PROCESS IN A WAY TO END UP WITH THE RIGHT COMBINATION OF FLAVORS SO THEY STAY IN THE LEAF AND DON'T GET BURNT OUT AND EVAPORATE.
CAN WE HAVE A CUP OF TEA?
>> YEAH, SURE.
>> Rosendo: LET'S GO HAVE A CUP OF TEA, TEA FOR TWO.
AND NOW.
>> AND NOW, THAT'S IT.
>> Rosendo: WHAT PARTICULAR CHARACTERISTICS DOES THIS TEA HAVE?
BECAUSE I KNOW AROMA HAS A LOT TO DO WITH IT.
>> AROMA.
IT'S MILKY AROMA.
>> Rosendo: MILKY.
>> THIS ONE, WE CALL IT OOLONG NUMBER 12.
MYAN, IT'S REALLY FUN TO HAVE SEEN IT FROM THE PICKING OF THE LEAF RIGHT HERE TO POURING IT IN THE CUPS, AND I CAN TELL WHY IT IS SO GOOD, BECAUSE THERE'S SO MUCH EFFORT TAKEN TO CREATE A CUP OF TEA.
I HAVE A WHOLE NEW APPRECIATION OF TEA.
>> OKAY, THANK YOU.
>> Rosendo: [speaking native language] "TEA IS A RELIGION OF THE ART OF LIFE," SAID A JAPANESE SCHOLAR.
IN CHIANG RAI, I MEET A VISIONARY WHOSE MODERN-DAY THAI TEMPLE ILLUSTRATES THAT THE ART OF LIFE IS HIS RELIGION.
95% OF THE THAIS ARE BUDDHISTS, 95%, RIGHT?
>> YEAH.
>> Rosendo: AND MOST OF THE BUDDHIST TEMPLES THAT YOU SEE-- PROBABLY ALL OF THEM--ARE VERY TRADITIONAL.
SOME OF THEM ARE ANCIENT.
THEY GO BACK TO-- >> YES, ALWAYS GOLD, GOLD.
>> Rosendo: OH, ALWAYS--ALWAYS GOLD.
>> YEAH, YELLOW COLOR.
>> Rosendo: YEAH, ALWAYS YELLOW.
WHY IS THAT?
>> I DON'T KNOW.
[laughter] >> Rosendo: IT'S TRADITION.
THEY'RE ALWAYS GOLD.
>> YEAH, ALWAYS GOLD.
>> Rosendo: OKAY, BUT THE PURPOSE IS TO NOT ONLY HONOR BUDDHA BUT TO TEACH PEOPLE ABOUT BUDDHA AND HIS TEACHINGS, AND YOU DO THE SAME THINGS HERE USING MODERN IMAGES, MODERN-DAY IMAGES TO SPEAK TO MODERN PEOPLE, AND THIS DEPICTS HELL, BECAUSE THE BUDDHIST CONCEPT OF HELL IS NOT SO MUCH THAT YOU DIE AND GO TO HELL.
IF YOU LIVE A BAD LIFE, YOU ARE IN HELL.
BUT LOOK HERE.
LOOK HERE.
DO YOU SEE THESE LITTLE GLASS-COVERED BITS OF LIGHT?
THEY ARE THE HOPE.
SO EVEN WHEN YOU'RE IN HELL, THERE'S HOPE, SO WE'LL CONTINUE THE BRIDGE ACROSS TO HOPE.
>> [laughs] >> Rosendo: RIGHT?
>> TO HOPE, YES, YES.
THAT'S RIGHT.
WOW, HA-HA-HA.
>> Rosendo: AND SO, CHI, YOU ARE THE ARCHITECT?
>> YES.
>> Rosendo: THE ARTIST.
>> PAINTER.
>> Rosendo: THE PAINTER.
>> AND A SCULPTOR.
>> Rosendo: AND A SCULPTOR.
>> YEAH, LIKE MICHELANGELO.
I DO EVERYTHING.
[laughter] >> Rosendo: YOU EVEN PAY FOR IT.
>> OH, I PAY BY MYSELF.
>> Rosendo: YOU PAY FOR IT YOURSELF.
>> YES, I DON'T WANT ANYONE TO HELP ME--THE MONEY--BY THE MONEY, BECAUSE THE MONEY IS-- WHEN THE MONEY COMES, IT COMES WITH THE ORDER.
>> Rosendo: WITH THE ORDERS, TELL YOU WHAT TO DO.
>> TELL ME WHAT I DO.
I DON'T WANT THAT.
>> Rosendo: NOW, THIS WAS BUILT IN 1998.
>> YEAH.
>> Rosendo: HOW MANY MORE YEARS UNTIL IT'S FINISHED?
>> OH, MY WHOLE LIFE.
I SPEND MY WHOLE LIFE FOR MY BUDDHISM, MY COUNTRY, AND MY WORK.
>> Rosendo: AND THAT DOESN'T BOTHER YOU THAT YOU'LL NEVER SEE THE END?
>> AHHHH, NO NEED TO SEE, BECAUSE I SEE IN MY MIND ALREADY.
HA-HA-HA-HA.
EVERYTHING IN MY HEAD, IN MY MIND.
>> Rosendo: YOU ALREADY SEE IT.
>> YES, AND... [speaking native language] YOU'LL FOLLOW ME.
>> Rosendo: AND THEY KNOW THAT THEY'RE GONNA KEEP ON TO WORK AFTER--AFTER YOU PASS, THEY ARE GONNA CONTINUE THIS WORK HERE.
TALK TO ME ABOUT SOME OF THE IMAGES.
>> OH, IF I WANT TO TELL YOU ABOUT THIS, IT'S THE VICTORY OF THE MALA.
>> Rosendo: THE STORY OF-- THIS IS AN ANCIENT STORY.
>> VICTORY OF THE MALA.
>> Rosendo: MALA.
>> BUT THIS IS WHY WE ARE MORTAL.
>> Rosendo: SO THE MALA REPRESENTS THE BAD THINGS.
>> THE BAD THING, THE POLLUTION, EVERYTHING, AND THE EARTH IS CORRUPT, AND I LIKE THE MOVIES ALSO.
THAT'S WHY--YOU SEE, IT'S... >> Rosendo: OH, YEAH, I CAN SEE.
THERE'S THE MATRIX.
>> AND THE MATRIX THERE AND THE-- >> Rosendo: THESE ARE ALL THE STAR WARS... >> YEAH, STAR WARS AND THE-- >> Rosendo: THE EVIL, THE MALA, AND OVER HERE IS THE HEAVEN, AND THE NIRVANA.
>> YEAH, NIRVANA.
THE ONE--THE WHITE ONE, THAT IS MY SCULPTURE.
I DID THAT ONE.
>> Rosendo: AND IF I UNDERSTAND CORRECTLY, THE BUDDHISTS BELIEVE WE CAN REACH NIRVANA HERE ON THIS EARTH NOW.
>> YES, OF COURSE, LIKE ME NOW.
[laughs] STAY IN THE HEAVEN.
LIVING IN THE HEAVEN.
>> Rosendo: EXACTLY.
>> YEAH.
>> Rosendo: WE LIVE NOW IN HEAVEN.
>> YEAH.
>> Rosendo: OR HELL.
>> YEAH, YOU SEE?
>> Rosendo: ME TOO.
>> [laughs] THAT'S RIGHT.
THAT'S RIGHT.
>> Rosendo: ME TOO.
>> AHH, JOSEPH.
[laughs] HAPPY IN YOUR MIND.
>> Rosendo: THANK YOU.
>> ME TOO, HUH?
THAT IS HEAVEN.
>> Rosendo: THAT IS HEAVEN.
>> OUR HEAVEN.
>> Rosendo: OUR HEAVEN.
>> IN THE EYE.
[laughter] >> Rosendo: [speaking native language] >> YOU'RE WELCOME.
YOU'RE WELCOME.
VERY NICE TO SEE YOU.
>> Rosendo: VERY NICE TO MEET YOU.
THAILAND IS FULL OF SURPRISES.
ON MY LAST DAY AT ANANTARA, I AM INTRODUCED TO THE RESORT'S MOST PAMPERED LONG-TIME GUESTS.
[elephant trumpets] HERE AT THE ANANTARA RESORT, THEY HAVE AN ELEPHANT CAMP.
I'M WITH SENG, WHO IS THE TRAINER HERE, AND ACTUALLY, HE'S IN CHARGE OF THE MAHOUTS, WHICH ARE THE GENTLEMEN WHO HAVE THEIR ELEPHANTS, ARE IN CONTROL OF THEIR ELEPHANTS.
OFTEN, THEY TAKE THEM INTO THE CITIES IN ORDER TO MAKE A LIVING WITH THEM, BUT YOU HAVE A PROGRAM TO RESCUE ELEPHANTS.
>> [speaking English] >> Rosendo: AND FOR US AS VISITORS WHO COME TO THE HOTEL, WHAT CAN WE DO WITH THE ELEPHANTS?
>> Rosendo: OH, GOOD.
>> Rosendo: WELL, LET'S GO GET OUR ELEPHANTS.
COME ON.
IN OCTOBER 2003, THEY BEGAN THE ELEPHANT CAMP HERE IN ANANTARA.
THEY STARTED WITH FOUR ELEPHANTS THAT THEY HAD BORROWED FROM THE ELEPHANT FOUNDATION TO GET THE CAMP STARTED, AND NOW THEY'VE RESCUED SO MANY THAT THERE ARE 31 ELEPHANTS HERE, 14 OF THEM BABIES THAT THEY RESCUED FROM THE STREETS OF URBAN THAILAND.
THEY ALSO HELP OUT THE FAMILIES, BECAUSE AN ELEPHANT AND A MAHOUT ARE TOGETHER FOR LIFE, AND THIS WAY, HIS WIFE, HIS CHILDREN ALSO COME HERE TO THE ELEPHANT CAMP, AND THE WOMEN DO THESE WONDERFUL HAND WEAVINGS AND HELP SUPPORT THEMSELVES.
THIS REALLY BECOMES A WIN-WIN-WIN SITUATION.
IT'S A GREAT PLACE FOR YOU TO GET TO KNOW SOMETHING ABOUT THESE MAGNIFICENT CREATURES AND HAVE A CLOSE ENCOUNTER WITH THEM, IF YOU WILL.
OKAY, HERE WE GO.
AH, THANK YOU.
>> PUT YOUR HANDS--BOTH HANDS-- ON THE ELEPHANT HEAD.
>> Rosendo: LIKE THIS?
>> BOTH HANDS HERE?
>> Rosendo: I GOT HER.
OH, MY GOD.
[laughs] WHOO-HOO.
>> OKAY, THEN, NOW, COULD YOUR MOVE YOUR BODY A LITTLE MORE FORWARD?
OKAY, PERFECT NOW.
>> Rosendo: HERE WE ARE.
HEY, I FEEL LIKE A MAHARAJA.
I HAVE MY INSTRUCTION BOOKLET.
"HOW TO RIDE AN ELEPHANT: TOUCH YOUR ELEPHANT A LOT, BUT DO NOT HUG THE TRUNK.
YOU WOULDN'T WANT ANYBODY PULLING YOUR NOSE, WOULD YOU?
NEVER TRUST YOUR ELEPHANT COMPLETELY."
ALTHOUGH ELEPHANTS DON'T REALLY GALLOP LIKE A HORSE, SO THEY HARDLY EVER GET OUT OF CONTROL, BUT IF THEY DID, YOU WOULD BE HARD-PRESSED TO STOP THEM.
OKAY, DOWN TO THE RIVER.
>> OKAY.
[speaking native language] >> Rosendo: WE'RE ALL GONNA TAKE A BATH IN THE RIVER.
[laughs] EVERY VISIT TO THAILAND TEACHES ME SOMETHING.
THIS TRIP POSED THE QUESTION, HOW DOES A RESPONSIBLE TOURIST KEEP FROM LOVING A PLACE TO DEATH?
I DISCOVERED THAT IT HAS TO DO WITH HOW YOU USE A RESOURCE.
IS IT EXPLOITATION OR EDUCATION?
TOURISM IS A 50-50 PROPOSITION.
IT CAN DESTROY A DESTINATION, OR IT CAN ENHANCE IT, AND WHETHER IT'S SEA GYPSIES OR HILL TRIBES, ELEPHANTS OR MANGROVES, IF A TRAVELER UNDERSTANDS THE FRAGILITY OF A PLACE AND THEIR IMPACT UPON IT, THEY CAN ENGAGE IN AND ENCOURAGE PRACTICES THAT ALLOW IT TO SURVIVE IN ITS NATURAL STATE.
YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO STOP DEVELOPMENT, BUT YOU CAN HELP PRESERVE WHAT MADE YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH A DESTINATION IN THE FIRST PLACE.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN: "TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS."
HAPPY TRAVELING.
>> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.
DK CITY, COUNTRY, AND DRIVING GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, 3-D MAPPING, AND ILLUSTRATIONS FOR KEY SITES AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.
DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.
FOR A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S TRAVELSCOPE ADVENTURES, CALL: OR ORDER ONLINE AT: YOU CAN ALSO EMAIL US AT: OR WRITE US AT THE ADDRESS ON YOUR SCREEN.
>> Rosendo: NOW THAT YOU'VE EXPLORED SOUTHERN AND NORTHERN THAILAND, LEARN MORE AT: WHERE YOU CAN FOLLOW MY WORLDWIDE ADVENTURES THROUGH MY BLOG AND PODCAST.
KEEP IN TOUCH: NEXT TIME ON TRAVELSCOPE, I HEAD TO FREDERICKSBURG IN THE HEART OF TEXAS HILL COUNTRY AND TAKE A LONE STAR STATE-SIZED HELPING OF ALL IT HAS TO OFFER.
Captioning by Joe at CaptionMax www.captionmax.com HAPPY TRAVELING.
>> AHHHHHH!
[laughter]
Support for PBS provided by:
Joseph Rosendo’s Travelscope is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television