Woman: It is a curious thing.

Hundreds of young Bahamians will line up with huge drums on their shoulders.

Those drums pound right into your soul.

[ Drum playing rhythmically ] And there will be whistles blowing.

[ Whistle blowing ] And the cowbells will fall in line and there will be what we call black horns.

And these people who seemingly are just ordinary citizens come together to create this magnificent cultural expression of who they really are.

[ Up-tempo music plays ] ♪♪ ♪♪ Man: Flight 527 ready for departure.

♪♪ ♪♪ Man: Ladies and gentlemen... once again... "Music Voyager."

Edgar: You may think you've heard everything, but the world is full of surprises.

And when you're hanging out with musicians, nothing is off-limits.

Is this what you guys do every weekend?

Every night.

Every night.

My name is Jacob Edgar.

Music is my life, and life is short.

So crank up the volume and let the voyage begin.

[ Men singing in Spanish ] ♪♪ Ah, sun, sea, sand!

It's a tropical paradise!

But those are a dime a dozen.

I'm looking for places that also have incredible culture.

And on this episode of "Music Voyager," we're gonna be diving into the rhythms of Junkanoo, rake-and-scrape, goombay.

It's gonna be a lot of fun.

Look out, Bahamas.

Here we come.

[ Shell horn blows ] ♪ Get ready to wait ♪ ♪ 'Cause it's waiting time ♪ ♪ Get ready to move ♪ ♪ It's all about you ♪ Man: Hey, gang.

Back it up.

[ Men singing in native language ] Edgar: The Bahamas deserves its reputation as a tropical playground, and for most visitors, that's enough.

They just want a relaxing getaway where they can unwind and lounge by the beach.

It could be anywhere as far as they're concerned... as long as the sun is shining.

[ Singsongy voice ] "Music Voyager."

[ Squawks ] That was close.

It was a good try.

But if you want to get to know the real Bahamas, you need to look beyond the beach hotels and cruise ship ports.

You need to get out onto the streets and meet some people.

You will quickly learn they are as warm and welcoming as the weather and they definitely dance to the beat of their own drum.

[ Drum playing ] ♪ I see Jacob, he got the Junkanoo ♪ ♪ Junkanoo ♪ Music is everywhere, but you'll hear plenty that's not authentic to the Bahamas, like reggae, steel drums, soca, and hotel bands playing Jimmy Buffett covers.

The exception is during Junkanoo season.

This is when the country explodes in a celebration of local culture.

Junkanoo happens two days of the year -- on Boxing Day -- that's the day after Christmas -- and again on New Year's morning.

And the biggest event is in Nassau.

I've come to the Bahamas to experience Junkanoo for myself and dig in to what this celebration is all about.

On the surface, Junkanoo looks a lot like Carnival in Trinidad and Brazil or Mardi Gras in New Orleans.

So what makes Junkanoo different?

Is it just a big show for tourists, or is there something deeper going on?

♪♪ When I was a little girl, I was enthralled by Junkanoo.

[ Up-tempo music plays ] ♪♪ Edgar: Like many Bahamians, Arlene Nash Ferguson was captivated by Junkanoo at a very young age.

Ferguson: I just thought that it was truly magical that after all of the beauty and drama of Christmas, just when you thought life couldn't get any better as a child, in the middle of the night, in the middle of the street, people are dancing.

It was just a magical thing that gripped me and it has held me in its enthrall ever since.

Edgar: Arlene is so passionate about Junkanoo, she even turned her childhood home in Nassau into a Junkanoo museum.

Edgar: Hello.

You must be Arlene.

Ferguson: Hello!

And you must be Jacob.

Nice to meet you.

What a pleasure to meet you.

Welcome to the Bahamas... Wow.

This is beautiful.

...and to Junkanoo, and to a new culture.

So what do we have in here?

What is all of this?

These are costumes, Junkanoo costumes that have been on various parades, and they are on display for our schoolchildren and for our visitors to see the kind of artistry that is involved up close in Junkanoo.

This is what I look like in one of my costumes.

That's you in that picture?

That's me.

Lovely.

Alright.

Yes.

It's quite a drama.

Yeah.

Now, what does the word "Junkanoo" mean?

There are many theories, and I believe the real reason will be lost in antiquity.

I do know that my mother always called it the Johnny Canoes.

When I was a little girl, it was known as John Canoe.

Right.

And in the Bahamas, that contracted to Junkanoo.

But the name isn't the only difference between Junkanoo and Carnival.

Not only does Junkanoo take place at a different time of the year -- it has no connection to the European Catholic festivals from which Carnival was born.

Both Carnival and Junkanoo, however, have been practiced in the Caribbean since the slavery era, and they both reflect oppressed people's desire for freedom of expression.

So please come right with me.

We are walking back into the past.

This used to be the kitchen.

So let me introduce you first.

I tell the children this is Sponge-Bahama-Bob.

How many children do you think have nightmares about this particular creature?

Sponge-Bahama-Bob.

This is like a horror movie right here.

Nobody has cried yet.

[ Laughs ] But, you know, in the old days, when you look at the photographs on the wall, they actually are quite scary.

And Junkanoo did not begin to be beautiful until into the 1950s.

Junkanoo started as a form of passive resistance to slavery.

It was a proud people saying, "We survived, let us celebrate.

Let us re-create our festivals from home."

♪♪ Bahamian history and culture can't be fully appreciated without recognizing the enduring impact of slavery.

And one place to start is the Pompey Museum of Slavery & Emancipation, right in downtown Nassau.

♪ On the slave ship, they came ♪ ♪ In shackles and chains ♪ Edgar: As with the rest of the Caribbean, the majority of the population of the Bahamas has African ancestry.

Many of their forefathers were brought directly to the islands from West Africa.

Others came from America to work on plantations established by outcast British loyalists.

But slavery ended 35 years earlier in the Bahamas than it did in the U.S. And the Bahamas became a refuge for escaped slaves from the Americas, as well as for Africans rescued from ships captured by the British, creating multiple layers of African influence.

This is the ruin of the Deveaux Plantation, and there were over 500 slaves that worked around this property back in the day.

You know, slavery seems like something that happened so long ago, but... when you come to a place like this and see this physical representation of the history of slavery, it's a reminder of how much impact it still has and how much its presence is still felt.

♪ And I long to be by my savior's side ♪ ♪ Just over in the Gloryland ♪ Edgar: Slavery sparked the Junkanoo fire, and the flame of African culture is what makes Bahamian music burn brightly to this day.

Spiritual and gospel music is omnipresent in the Bahamas.

In this Baptist church on Cat Island, you can still find African retentions in the tradition of rushing, in which churchgoers rise from their seats and sing call-and-response hymns for hours.

[ Rhythmic clapping ] [ Congregation singing indistinctly ] On the morning of December 26th and New Year's Day, rushing would continue on all night and into the morning as people made their way from the church to the streets for Junkanoo.

Remember when I said music is everywhere in the Bahamas?

Well, as it turns out, the security guard at the Slavery Museum is in a band.

They're called Tropical Depression, and they perform authentic rake-and-scrape music.

He offers to get his band together that night for a demonstration.

We sound -- We sound like a rock group.

We don't -- We don't want no hurricane.

We don't want no storm.

All we need is a little cool breeze coming our way.

A little tropical breeze we got coming off the sea now.

[ Rake-and-scrape music plays ] ♪♪ ♪♪ Edgar: Ask any Bahamian, "What is real Bahamian music?"

and they will certainly say rake-and-scrape.

With roots in the outer islands, where African culture was particularly strong, rake-and-scrape blends the rhythms of a goombay drum, or in the case of this band, a number-two washtub; a melodic instrument, such as an accordion or harmonica; and the sashaying scratching of a handsaw, whose serrated edge is rubbed with a screwdriver.

Who says you need fancy instruments to make music?

If you've got the rhythm in your soul, a rusty saw, a dented wash bucket, and a dime-store harmonica will suffice.

As with Junkanoo, rake-and-scrape demonstrates the ingenuity of people who just needed to express themselves through music and dance.

And they would slap, scratch, blow, or pluck whatever they had available that got their feet moving.

[ Music continues ] ♪♪ ♪♪ Rake-and-scrape -- Where does the name come from?

A lot of people think it comes from the soil because you rake soil.

But...

I think it's whatever you raked and scraped up to make some music.

That's rake-and-scrape.

And that's what you guys have done.

Yeah, we rake and scrape.

[ Clapping ] Thank you.

Thank you.

[ Up-tempo music plays ] ♪♪ 1:30 in the morning in downtown Nassau on New Year's morning, and Junkanoo is just getting started.

All the groups are starting to set up their floats, and in just a few minutes, this whole downtown area is gonna be exploding with color and music and life, and it's gonna be a long, long night.

The lead-up to Junkanoo gets pretty chaotic, with people running around getting everything ready for the madness to come.

Luckily, I have a local to keep me from getting lost.

♪ I want to live and wine ♪ ♪ Just start the party 'cause I'm feeling right ♪ ♪ If everybody throw your hands up high ♪ ♪ No need to worry, gone and lose your mind ♪ ♪ Dance with somebody, just wine ♪ Edgar: Julien Believe is a popular young singer who's looking to create fresh sounds that will appeal to a young generation.

So, Julien Believe... [ Laughs ] ...tell me about yourself a little bit.

My sound is like a pop-Caribbean flavor mashed up in one with some Junkanoo, which is, like, our native sound.

While Julien is clearly striving to create an international hit with a nod to Junkanoo rhythms, dances, and costumes on the video to his latest song, "Live and Wine," he's trying to build mainstream success on a Bahamian foundation.

♪ Dance with somebody, just wine ♪ ♪ Dingo lay ding dingo ♪ ♪ Dingo lay ding dingo ♪ ♪ Dingo lay ding dingo ♪ ♪ Dance with somebody, just wine ♪ It's -- It's Junkanoo Night.

Yes, it is.

I mean, here I am.

I'm not wearing this funny hat for nothing.

So describe where we are and what's going on.

Alright.

We're on Bay Street.

Okay?

This is -- This is the whole area where it goes down.

In a few minutes, you're gonna see this whole thing transform to costumes, Bahamians just up and down the streets getting ready to parade and celebrate our culture.

But I might as well tell you, man -- It's a huge competition between a lot of the groups.

Yeah.

And this is like...

This is like nothing you've seen, man.

So it's like a sporting event.

Like, people have their teams.

Certainly.

They have the ones that they have allegiances to...

Certainly.

Certainly.

...and there's arguments between them.

Edgar: Quarters follow the various Junkanoo groups as passionately as sports fans, and they take it just as seriously.

Junkanoo is a competition.

Teams are judged on best costumes, choreography, music, and more.

Saxons!

Edgar: Now, let me ask you, Mario -- What does something like this cost?

Roughly between $3,000 to $4,000.

$3,000 to $4,000.

Yeah.

Is there, like, a prize for this particular costume or for, like... Yeah, it's a cash purse.

I'm not sure of the purse for -- for New Year's.

But for Boxing Day, the purse is about $2,000.

Oh, nice.

So sometimes you get your money back, but...

It's not about the money, right?

No, it's about the love.

It's about the pride.

Heritage, love and heritage.

Right.

Pride.

Edgar: Groups prepare for this night for months, building their elaborate costumes and floats at Junkanoo shacks -- workshops where they transform simple paper, cardboard, and wire into phantasmagorical displays.

♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ I'm going to the Colours shack.

This is run by a guy named Chris Justilien, whose one of the premier musicologists from the Bahamas.

He knows a lot about the history of Bahamian music.

and so it'll be really nice.

I've heard a lot about him, and it'll be the first time I've had a chance to meet him in person.

How are you doing?

How are you doing?

Colours.

How are you doing, Jacob?

Nice to meet you.

Welcome.

Welcome to Colours Entertainment and Junkanoo Organization.

This is our little village here.

Alright.

So what's going on here?

What are people doing?

Right now, we're hustl-- Yeah, we're hustling, trying to get our New Year's Day program to go and win Parade Number 10.

Okay.

Alright.

How did you do at the Boxing Day?

We came first.

Really?

We have nine consecutive parades... Yeah?

...in our division right now at this time.

Colours is one of the most respected groups in the "B" division -- the smaller ensembles of less than 200 people.

The "A" division can include groups with more than a thousand participants.

Each group picks a theme and builds a parade around that theme.

Colours focuses on themes that celebrate Bahamian folklore.

And this year, as is the case almost every year, they are the group to beat in their division.

So let's look at this costume here.

Junkanoo costumes and floats are all made by hand out of very basic materials.

After constructing a frame from wire and hollow rods, cardboard and paper are bent into shape and marked by a designer to indicate colors and patterns.

Miles of brightly colored paper strips are individually cut to form the fringe that is then applied to the costume with brush and glue.

After weeks, sometimes months, of work, the final result is truly impressive.

Junkanoo rules require strict adherence to timeworn techniques.

For example, all Junkanoo floats must be moved with people power.

No engines allowed.

Over here, there's a -- There's a tune called "Miss Lucy Hang Herself in the Mango Tree."

That's a -- That sounds like a lovely children's song.

Well, it's not a lovely children's song.

It's not a pretty one.

But -- But you know something?

The costume is pretty, though.

♪ Hey ♪ Justilien: What you do is turn around, reverse in there like a nice car, and scoot down a little bit.

Okay.

Oh.

Yes.

And then back up and come straight up.

[ Grunts ] There you go.

I knew I should have gone on that diet.

And stand up.

There you go.

Whoa!

How does it feel?

Does it feel heavy?

It feels -- No, it doesn't feel heavy at all.

Good.

And we will hook you up.

[ Laughs ] Lovely.

[ Marching band plays ] Edgar: Another way Junkanoo adheres to tradition is with the use of real instruments.

I was recently at Carnival in Trinidad, where most of the parade music is prerecorded.

In the Bahamas, only live music is allowed, which gives young people like these an opportunity to improve their musical skills.

The shack is like a social club that provides young people with a positive activity that builds community.

Plus, it's a great excuse to get together and just make some noise, and I can get down with that.

[ All cheer ] ♪♪ ♪ Limbo, limbo, limbo like me ♪ Edgar: What kind of food would you find during Junkanoo?

What's the...?

Oh, some guava duff.

Got to get you some -- Guava duff?

What's guava duff?

Guava duff is like...

Okay, so, the guava fruit.

Okay, yeah, I know guava.

We take the guava fruit, we cut it up, and then we create this dough.

Mix it all together, put it in a plastic bag, and then boil it in hot water.

By the time it comes out, it's nice and fluffy.

Alright, slice it, and then you make a sauce with it.

It's the perfect dessert.

You know what?

I want to try that now.

♪ Till he goes out of sight ♪ ♪ Oh, limbo, limbo ♪ You know what?

After you have this, you're not gonna leave the Bahamas.

Alright.

You're gonna stay.

♪ Limbo, limbo like me ♪ Mmm!

Officially a Bahamian.

Yeah, you're right.

Cancel my flight.

I'm staying.

[ Laughter ] I'm staying here.

♪♪ ♪♪ Alright.

Now, let me tell you what's happening here.

This is Colours.

Colours!

We know those guys.

We were at their shack.

Yes, yes.

It's gonna sound so cool when you see them put it all together.

So, now, this is my favorite part, the drums, because the drums are the heartbeat of Junkanoo music.

Now, you know, a garbage tin, right?

Like, a big garbage tin?

Yeah, yeah.

So, what we gonna do, right?

We'll take out the bottom.

And now what we gonna do, we'll stretch the goat skin.

Okay.

And put it over the... Over the tin.

Right, yeah.

Yes.

And when we heat it up, it creates this unique sound.

[ Steady drumming ] And is that what this fire is over here?

Alright, let's go check this out.

[ Whistle blowing ] This is like... Any musician, this is the best part 'cause you actually watch the drum come to life.

Oh, we got some guys coming.

♪♪ Yeah!

♪♪ Edgar: Up until this moment, I've only heard bits and pieces of the Junkanoo sound.

But here around the fire, I get my first taste of how magical live Junkanoo music can be.

I can clearly hear the African roots in the interplay of cowbell, whistle, horns, and drums.

It's entrancing, and the pulse is impossible to resist.

[ Drumming ] One of the most respected and cherished Bahamian drummers is John Chipman, affectionately known as Chippie.

86 years old, Chipman is considered the godfather of Junkanoo drumming.

He's been beating the drum for Junkanoo since he was just a child, and he's still going strong.

I stopped by his house to pay Chipman a visit.

Oh, here's somebody.

Hello!

Hello.

Welcome.

Ah, you must be Mr. Chipman.

One and only.

There no be another.

I have traveled around the world beating this drum.

I was beating this drum for 65 years.

You name the country -- Italy, Spain, England, France, Korea, New Zealand, Italy.

[ Drumming ] Edgar: Chipman is a true character, his personality as colorful as his wardrobe.

He loves to teach Junkanoo rhythms, imparting his long lifetime of drumming wisdom to a new generation.

Although, with all the noise I'm making, I'm glad I'm not his neighbor.

For Chipman, the drum is a humble instrument that can sound great when played by one person.

But as the Junkanoo parade finally begins, I quickly learn the true power of the drum is revealed when people join together in a communal beat.

[ Whistles blowing ] Man: Show time!

Show time!

Show time!

Show time!

Oh, yeah!

Edgar: Contrary to what I feared before I came to the Bahamas, it's clear Junkanoo is not just a tourist attraction.

♪♪ It's a sincere celebration of Bahamian heritage, a family-friendly opportunity to honor the country's unique identity, not just party like there's no tomorrow.

Junkanoo allows Bahamians to be themselves... [ Visage's "Oh Lo Lo" plays ] ♪♪ ...even if that's just twice a year to use paper to make floats, buckets to make drums, to take simple materials to construct a magical world of stories, myths, and memories.

My host and guide, Julien, is evidence that the rhythms of the past are being recycled by a whole new generation of Bahamians.

Based on my experience in the Bahamas so far, the future of Junkanoo and Bahamian music looks bright.

And what music it is -- filled with passion, joy, and soul.

It's music that demands your attention.

[ Singers vocalizing ] ♪♪ The infectious rhythms of Junkanoo have inspired me to seek out what other music the Bahamas has to offer.

But first, I think I need to get a little sleep.

[ Man rapping ] ♪♪ [ Woman singing ] ♪♪ ♪♪ [ Singers vocalizing ] ♪♪