

The Beautiful West (Ålesund)
Season 1 Episode 105 | 25m 27sVideo has Closed Captions
The team explores unique, food, art, and culture on the west coast of Norway
Arne, Frida, and Stig experience the outstanding food and hospitality on Norway’s west coast. Frida meets up with a local chef in Ålesund who prepares a beautiful fish dish in the middle of town. Meanwhile, Arne and Stig are served a tasting menu, complete with the region’s traditional delicacies.
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People of the North is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

The Beautiful West (Ålesund)
Season 1 Episode 105 | 25m 27sVideo has Closed Captions
Arne, Frida, and Stig experience the outstanding food and hospitality on Norway’s west coast. Frida meets up with a local chef in Ålesund who prepares a beautiful fish dish in the middle of town. Meanwhile, Arne and Stig are served a tasting menu, complete with the region’s traditional delicacies.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship>> Funding for this series has been provided in part by the following.
♪♪♪ >> Havila Voyages -- sustainable coastal cruises along Norway's beautiful coastline.
>> ♪ Take me home ♪ Take me home where I... >> VGAN Chocolate -- Norwegian flavor.
Available in Walmart stores.
>> Seafood from Norway.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ >> Come with us to Sunnmore in Western Norway.
The whole region is known for its inventive and industrious people, and for the absolute jaw-dropping scenery.
Stig, this is the famous Geirangerfjord.
>> Yeah, look at this.
>> The Seven Sisters up there.
But it's fantastic, you know?
We are now on 100% remote, and this ship is the future, it's on LMG.
And going into the world heritage fjord like this, it's all quiet, and you can hear the natural sounds.
>> And this has to be the future, I think.
>> We have to take care of these world heritage fjords, and a fantastic way to experience a unique place.
You're almost overwhelmed by the mighty mountains and the fjord that carves its way through the majestic landscape.
♪♪♪ Alesund is famous for its art nouveau architectural buildings from the early 1900s, but the city is also Western Norway's fish capital, home of the bacalhau, the salted and dried codfish.
♪♪♪ >> Welcome to Alesund, Frida and Stig.
>> What a nice way to arrive.
>> It's the only way to arrive in this beautiful coastal city, and we are going to have an adventure here, and it's going to include some lovely food.
>> Nice.
I'm looking forward to that.
>> Welcome to "People of the North".
I'm Arne Hjeltnes.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Join me on a journey, where we will meet people who live, work, and enjoy life right here in the far north.
I'm joined by star chef Frida Ronge, who is a culinary leader at some of Stockholm's finest restaurants.
She has come all the way up here to look for new creative impulses.
My good friend Stig Bareksten is also coming.
He's the founder of an award-winning Nordic gin distillery, and he's on the hunt for new and exciting flavors.
My name is Arne Hjeltnes, and I'm taking you to meet the fantastic people of the north.
Frida has gone exploring on her own.
She's found a chef in Alesund who can give her a taste of the west coast, and Stig, he's always hungry, but I have decided that we should relax here for a moment.
>> Let us start at Sunnmore.
>> So, I thought we were going for dinner?
>> We are actually on our way for dinner, because Frida and a famous chef from this hotel, they are going to cook something for us, but it can take time.
>> Ah.
>> So I ordered a little afternoon tea without the tea.
So, this is the afternoon, and this is a beer.
>> Skol.
>> Skol.
>> Nice fireplace.
>> Yeah, very nice.
♪♪♪ In the very center of Alesund, Frida is up for some outdoor cooking with another Stig -- Head Chef Stig at the Brosundet Hotel.
>> I'm so excited to be in this little town here in Alesund.
It's an amazing view, and it's so pretty houses, and the -- [ Laughs ] Hello.
>> It's an amazing town.
We are in the middle of Brosundet, which is like the center of Alesund.
The building we are located in now is built in 1907.
>> Okay.
>> And it's been serving as Fiskemottak.
Normally, the Sillebat, the herring boats will come into Brosundet and offload their catch here.
>> Ah.
And Stig, you are restaurant manager of the restaurant here.
>> Yeah.
>> You are going to cook some quite nice food for us.
>> Hopefully.
>> Yeah?
>> Since we are one meter away from the water, I think we have to have some fish.
>> Of course.
>> So we got some turbot.
Really nice.
We're gonna cook it on the bone with some white asparagus, spring cabbage, and we're just gonna steam, like, a dashi that we make with local seaweed.
>> Fantastic.
Which type of seaweed?
>> The winged kelp.
>> Winged kelp.
Yeah.
It's one of my favorite.
It's the one you call wakame in Japanese, the one you have in miso soup usually.
>> Yeah.
>> And you can actually get that from Norway?
>> Yes.
>> So, that's so nice.
>> You just go out and pick it in the... >> In the ocean yourself.
>> That's fantastic.
Wow.
Stig, how long does it take to grill the turbot on charcoal like this?
>> Maybe about six to seven minutes on each side.
>> Yeah?
>> It's a bit of a cliche, but it's ready when it's ready.
We shouldn't rush it too much.
>> Exactly.
Wow.
This looks amazing.
>> Maybe we should check the cabbage to see if it's getting ready.
>> Oh.
That looks so nice.
I love cabbage when it's fresh like this in the spring.
>> Fresh cabbage is, like, the best thing ever.
So, the turbot -- almost done.
>> Yep.
>> But today, we got these amazing langoustines, or Norway lobsters from our local fisherman.
>> Wow.
>> Amazing.
>> Look at this size.
It's so amazing.
>> It's almost like a lobster.
>> Yeah.
It's so big.
Wow.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ >> Just some fresh herbs and flowers on top.
You eat with your eyes, as well.
>> Yeah, and it's also spring, so it's a perfect garnish.
>> Yes.
>> So, I can start to serve the guys with this beautiful turbot and asparagus, and maybe you can come with the rest later.
>> I'll join you with the rest.
>> Perfect.
Look at this, guys.
>> Oh, my God.
It's my favorite fish.
>> It's a turbot.
It's white asparagus and salsify, and look at this.
It's butter sauce with caviar and chives.
>> Ooh.
A little toast to you, Frida, for finding Chef Stig and this beautiful location, and this fantastic meal.
Look at this fish.
Turbot from the ocean -- [speaking Norwegian] I have a friend that once said, when he had something as good as this, he said, "I want to marry it."
Do you get that often yourself in your restaurant?
>> Every day.
Every day, Arne.
[ Laughter ] For more inspiration, visit our website, peopleofthenorth.net.
♪♪♪ >> This is where I'm staying tonight.
So cozy.
♪♪♪ Oh, this is so cozy, and a perfect place if you want to stay close and hug someone.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ [ Knock on door ] >> Good morning.
>> Good morning.
>> How are you?
>> I'm so good.
>> I've been sleeping like an angel up there.
>> Aw, that sounds so good.
Here is your breakfast.
>> Fantastic.
>> Enjoy the sun.
>> Thank you.
>> While Frida enjoys the early morning and her lighthouse breakfast in the heart of Alesund Harbor, I have insisted that Stig join me for a special treat.
It will e more than a brunch.
It's Norwegian food traditions served by an eccentric couple in Nonsvika.
I hope he's still hungry.
>> Hi.
>> God dag.
God dag.
>> I'm Arne.
>> Welcome to Nonsvika.
Welcome.
>> And here we are at the attic.
And I guess what you are showing people is how people lived in the old days.
>> Yes.
Like a museum, because we have taken care of all of the things they use in old days so we can show how they make different things.
>> And how old is this house?
>> From 1920, came here.
>> And it was your family?
>> Yeah.
My grandfather's sister come.
>> And how did they make a living here in the fjord?
>> They fish -- much fish.
>> Yeah?
>> They also pick eggs.
>> And this is a seagull?
>> Seagull.
Yeah.
>> And that's... >> It's goose.
>> Yeah?
And this little one... >> Is oyster finder.
>> Oyster finder.
>> Yeah.
>> And this was edible.
They could eat it.
Have you tried it?
>> Yes, yes.
Eat much.
>> And what are you then offering for tasting, to show people what was on the menu in the old days?
>> Luxury food.
>> So we're gonna have luxury food.
>> Season.
>> Ooh.
>> We live off the season.
Stig, we are lucky.
We are the Home Restaurant in Nonsvika.
>> I'm looking forward to this, but we will have enough butter, that's for sure.
>> We'll definitely have enough butter.
And I think these two -- they know what they're doing.
>> Absolutely.
♪♪♪ Local beer, Stig.
I know you enjoy that.
This is called Juniperus.
There should be juniper in it.
>> Probably.
>> And made by Inger Anne's brother at a very local brewery called [speaking Norwegian], and it's the islet over there.
It has a very nice color.
>> Skol.
>> Skol.
A toast to your brother, because he is really quite a brewer.
This was delicious.
But I guess this is not possible to buy anywhere.
>> No.
>> I love that, when things are not too available.
And this is real goat cheese.
Authentic goat cheese, made by pure goat milk.
Norwegian tradition.
Our national cheese.
Mm.
There's more.
>> Fresh crab there.
>> This is the fresh crab from the fjord?
>> Yeah.
>> Ooh.
>> Hope you like it.
>> [ Chuckles ] We like it.
>> Thank you.
>> [ Chuckles ] >> On the house.
>> Oh.
I think this is, you know, traditional Norwegian farm food served in a very charming way, and a charming place.
>> And this is just the beginning.
>> I know.
>> Skol.
>> Skol.
[ Chuckles ] Oi, oi, what's happening here?
Oh.
>> Taste of the nature.
[ Speaking Norwegian ] They buy it all the time at the shop.
>> Skol.
>> [ Speaking Norwegian ] >> [ Laughs ] It's not a liqueur, is it?
It's different herbs and berries.
>> Medicine.
>> Feels like medicine.
>> [ Laughs ] >> That's an interesting concept, to have all these different flavored honeys.
>> What do you call them?
It takes directions, but I think it's perfect as a digestive, as well.
>> It's rich Norwegian food, and in between, you get this little, as we can say in Norwegian, Oppkvikker.
>> But do you think we have to taste all of them?
>> I think we're in for a marathon.
>> [ Laughs ] >> Stig, there's more to come.
>> A fish cake.
>> Traditional Norwegian dish, fish cake.
>> MM.
>> The vegetable.
>> [ Speaking Norwegian ] And cured sausage, and they're made by beer.
>> Fantastic.
>> Amazing.
Oi.
>> [ Chuckles ] >> A crown.
>> Yeah.
>> So that's salmon skin and that's shell?
>> Yeah.
Razor clam shells.
>> Queen of Nonsvika.
>> Yeah.
Maybe.
>> I don't think maybe.
[ Laughs ] Eh, I think we're gonna call it off from here, and we're saying goodbye from Nonsvika.
>> Skol.
>> Skol.
We're gonna have 15 more courses and 10 more of these.
[ Both laugh ] >> Lamb has always been a staple food of Norway.
So is wool and clothing, and it's produced locally.
Frida set out to explore more and to find some nice woolwork at the Devold outlet.
>> Hello.
>> Hello.
>> Such a pretty store.
>> Thank you.
>> I'm actually here to find some nice gifts for my friends, Arne and Stig, and for myself.
Because are traveling around Norway in very, like, weather, I think I'm in the right place, right?
>> Yes, you are.
>> [ Chuckles ] So, what is this kind of material?
>> These jumpers are Norwegian wool.
>> Yeah?
>> Very warm.
>> They have two different personalities.
Stig is always in black, but I was thinking maybe to surprise Stig, and I see that -- gee, I wonder.
I mean, it's so, so beautiful.
>> We also have with zipper.
>> Yes.
>> Like this one.
This is the newest color.
>> Okay.
>> And they're eco-friendly.
>> Nice.
>> Perfect.
>> Thank you so much for your help.
>> You're welcome.
>> Thank you.
>> Thank you.
Bye.
>> Not far from Alesund, on the hillside of Glomset, Storfjord Hotel overviews the fjord with the same name.
It's a secluded luxury hotel with splendid food and extra-comfortable rooms.
This is going to be a perfect relaxed hideaway for me and my team.
Benthe is there to greet us.
I'm here now overlooking the magnificent Sunnmore in a hill not far from Alesund, and this magic place, Storfjord Hotel, Benthe, tell me, what's the story?
>> Somebody wanted to build a guest house here for high-end travelers from the UK and United States, and they started out with six rooms.
And nobody believed that it could be a hotel in Glomset.
The fjord is Storfjord, and that's why the hotel has its name, and the Storfjord goes into Geiranger.
So, Geiranger is a very nice place to visit when you come to this area.
>> It's very high quality, and I know that Benthe doesn't want to brag about who has stayed here, but I know that people like Bill Gates, Mel Gibson, several others have enjoyed this fabulous hotel, but as a guest, what would you say I would experience coming here, staying with you, Benthe?
>> Most of all, it's a slow life hideaway.
That's our slogan, and that's because when you come into the reception and you see this beautiful property, your shoulders just goes down, and you kind of relax.
>> I have brought with me my own bartender, and I think he has found a perfect spot for an afternoon dry martini.
Would you like to join me?
>> I would love to taste it.
>> I will make a dry martini, of course.
Look at this view.
Today, I will garnish it with some flower, because we are moving into the good season.
I'm gonna use a local gin -- Grova from just on the other side of the fjord there.
Okay.
♪♪♪ So, lemon zest, to give it some freshness.
♪♪♪ And then, I'm gonna garnish it with this pansy.
♪♪♪ I made a dry martini for you.
>> Oh, thank you.
>> Because when you're sitting here with this view, there is nothing such as a dry martini.
>> Benthe, at this wonderful terrace, I'm sure you serve cocktails from time to time.
>> Yes, we do.
Every afternoon.
>> Cocktail is often followed by dinner.
It's time for some fine dining.
Today's menu is a four-course menu that we have prepared for you.
First one is a cured trout with some pickled yellow beetroots.
Next course is a wild mushroom soup.
The lamb sirloin served with some baked parsnips, and the dessert is creme brulée.
>> Oh!
>> Thank you, Kenneth.
>> Thank you.
Thank you.
>> We are happy to finish off our hectic day at this wonderful place with good food and something in our glasses.
It really made our stay here perfect.
♪♪♪ >> Whoo-hoo!
♪♪♪ >> It's a way to start the day at Sunnmore.
I'm sure it's about at least 4 degrees.
Nice and warm.
Ehhh... Are you going in?
>> Eh, no.
>> Eh, no.
[ Chuckles ] >> Well, we can't sit here all day.
How about a boat trip?
Super fast boat, out to an island where there's good food, a good chef, nice weather.
>> That's my kind of thing.
>> That's his kind of thing.
>> And mine, too.
>> You're sure you're not going in?
>> Whoo-hoo!
>> Whoo-hoo-hoo!
[ Both laugh ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Our final destination is Skotholmen, where the fjord meets the ocean.
Frida, she insists it's going to well worth the trip, even though it's one of the least accessible restaurants in the country.
For more inspiration, visit our website, peopleofthenorth.net.
The only means of transportation to visit this exotic restaurant is by boat.
Skotholmen's signature is a sea of flavors, and the whole little island is run by head chef Magnus.
>> We just arrived from the fantastic tour with the rim, and now are are here on this small little island, where you are head chef and responsible for the operation.
>> That's correct.
Welcome.
>> Thank you so much.
This place is amazing.
Is this the only restaurant on this island, or... >> This is basically the only building on the whole island.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> And it's located outside of Fosnavag, on Sunnmore.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> We are a seafood restaurant, where the only access is either by boat or by helicopter.
>> Mm.
Maybe next time, I will ask Arne if we can take the helicopter.
>> Yeah, yeah.
>> But since we arrived in Sunnmore, everyone that we met have talked about your signature dish.
>> Yeah.
It is a crab soup, a cream and tomato based, and it's slightly spicy, crab soup.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> It's made out of local crab.
We fished the crabs ourself in the beginning, but at the moment now, we're using local fishermen.
>> Yeah?
>> They kind of started their own business out of our need of the crabs for the soup.
>> Fantastic.
>> It is.
It is.
>> In Sweden, we eat crab a lot, and it's the most affordable seafood, if you compare to lobster or crayfish.
>> Yeah.
>> But then we just eat it together with something that we call hovmastarsas.
Have you tried that?
>> No, I haven't tried it yet.
>> Oh, it's a mustard sauce with some dill and some vinegar and stuff, and it's super good to get it with crab.
When it's cooked, though.
>> Yeah?
>> So, cooked crab with this and bread.
>> Okay.
>> Now I'm curious to hear your secret about the crab soup.
>> But I can't tell you the secret.
You have to taste it.
You have to experience it.
>> [ Laughs ] Okay.
I will.
>> These are the local crabs.
>> Mm-hmm.
>> Root vegetables and onion.
>> Yes.
>> Ginger, chili, garlic, tomato.
And then we pump it up with black pepper, bay leaf, and star anise.
>> So, this is kind of your secret in the soup?
>> This is the base.
>> Mm.
>> So, there is a couple of secrets in the process.
>> Okay.
Fantastic.
♪♪♪ >> Oh, this is the famous crab soup.
>> Yes.
>> And Frida, you have seen it in the kitchen being made?
>> It's a lot of secret ingredients in the soup, but I think the main secret is him.
>> Yes.
>> [ Laughs ] >> Haper det smaker.
>> Takk.
Vel bekomme.
Mm.
"Haper det smaker" means in English, "I hope you like it."
>> Mm.
And we do.
>> So, then, you learned some Norwegian as well.
>> Skol.
>> Skol.
Apple juice from Stranda.
[ Glass ringing ] >> Attention please.
>> Yes.
>> Yesterday, I went out for some really, really nice Norwegian shopping.
>> Yeah.
So you bought us a present?
>> Yes.
I did.
[ Giggles ] [ Laughter ] Okay.
[ Laughter ] >> The man in black.
>> Exactly.
The man in black.
Yellow is the new black.
[ Laughter ] >> Oh.
Oh.
>> He's gonna have to wear it.
>> This one, I will wear every day.
>> There's also a little cute hat for that.
>> Oh, fantastic.
>> Yes.
Yes, Stig.
>> Yellow is the new black.
>> [ Speaking Norwegian ] [ Laughs ] >> Okay.
>> Oh, thank you so much.
>> It's a really nice color on you, I think.
>> Yeah?
>> Look.
>> [ Laughs ] >> What a lunch at Skotholmen.
>> [ Speaking Norwegian ] Skol.
♪♪♪ >> Perfectly well-filled-up with delicious food and luxurious accommodation, we have to agree that Alesund and its beautiful surroundings is a destination that has it all, even for spoiled travelers like us.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ >> For more inspiration, visit our website, peopleofthenorth.net.
>> Funding for this series has been provided in part by the following.
♪♪♪ >> Havila Voyages -- sustainable coastal cruises along Norway's beautiful coastline.
>> ♪ Take me home ♪ Take me home where I... >> VGAN Chocolate -- Norwegian flavor.
Available in Walmart stores.
>> Seafood from Norway.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪
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People of the North is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television