>> Welcome to "Joseph Rosendo's Travelscope"... >> Ha ha ha!

>> where you join us as we accept the world's invitation to visit.

>> Today on "Travelscope," I join the crowds in Los Cabos, Baja California, Mexico.

Where the land ends, the party begins, culture thrives, and whales come to visit.

>> "Travelscope" is made possible by... San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio--deep in the heart.

And No-Jet-Lag, jet lag prevention.

>> Like most travelers to Mexico, visitors to Los Cabos come in search of sun, sand, and fun.

It's where the desert meets the sea and at land's end where the raging Pacific and the serene Sea of Cortez come face to face, fishermen and water sports enthusiasts thrive, and those with a yen for romance are seduced by blue waters and secluded beaches and, from the terraces of their cliff-side hotels, glowing sunsets.

And if you're looking for a fiesta, they're easy to find.

It's said that Los Cabos is where the land ends and the party begins, where you can eat, drink, and rock and roll all night, and the next day... Aah!

Whoo-hoo!

Whoo-hoo!

Yeahhhhh!

Whoa!

Swim and dance with dolphins.

Wow!

Ha ha ha!

Ha ha!

Yet there's more to Los Cabos than sun and fun.

There's also an authentic Mexican and long-established Norteamericano culture that enjoys a simpler, artistic, and natural way of life.

Los Cabos is actually two resorts--Cabo San Lucas at the tip of the Baja California Peninsula and San Jose del Cabo 23 miles north along the coast.

While most Los Cabos vacationers head for Cabo San Lucas, for me it all begins in slower-paced San Jose del Cabo at the Estero San Jose, a 125-acre estuary and bird sanctuary.

Freshwater.

>> Freshwater, Joseph.

>> Always very important here in a desert.

>> Yes, it is.

>> You're part of the Sonoran Desert here.

Where does this water come from, Pahor?

>> From the La Laguna Mountain Range.

>> How many different kinds of birds to you have here in the estuary?

>> About 75--falcons, hawks, sea birds, egrets, herons, ducks.

>> Obviously freshwater is very important to whoever lives here.

>> This is the only freshwater lagoon that we have in San Jose.

>> When the Spanish first came here, they built their first mission right here.

>> Yes.

1730.

That was the year when the Jesuit missionaries arrived to San Jose.

They were looking for freshwater, and they discovered this place, so they decided to build the first mission.

Of course mosquitoes and floods were not a good idea.

>> Now we have the mission not very far away.

Downtown San Jose is right there.

>> Yeah.

>> And people can enjoy this by hiking and biking.

>> Hiking, biking, bird watching of course.

>> The Holiday Inn's right here.

Downtown's right there.

It's just a good example of the juxtaposition between development and nature right here in San Jose del Cabo.

An easy stroll through San Jose del Cabo's historic center is all that's needed to take in its simple attractions and tune into the town's relaxing rhythm of life.

In every Spanish town, you'll find certain main elements.

There's the main plaza, where the government buildings are, and not far away, the local church.

The Church of San Jose is on the original site of the Mission of San Jose that was built in 1730.

So while the Los Cabos area's recent fame dates back 20, 25 years, San Jose del Cabo has been important for hundreds and hundreds of years.

Why, in the 16th Century, the Spanish Manila galleons would stop at the port here at San Jose del Cabo on their way to and on their way back from their possessions in the Plippines.

At times, Los Cabos seems more influenced by California than Mexico City.

At San Jose del Cabo's seasonal art walk, you can sense the fusion of Mexican sensibility... and California spirit.

>> Every Thursday night 5:00 to 9:00, we have this event.

It's a lot of people coming down here.

The people could visit all the galleries in a very small area.

Different style, different kind of galleries.

>> Here in your gallery, they get to see contemporary Mexican art.

I love this over here.

>> That art is Vladimir Cora, successor of Rufino Tamayo, who was the biggest Mexican artist.

>> Sculpture is very, very interesting.

>> This is very nice.

This sculpture is one of our most interesting artists.

Her name was Leonora Carrington.

She just passed away the last May.

She was 94.

>> 94.

>> Yes.

Friend of Salvador Dali, Max Ernst, one of the top Mexican artists.

>> So you have some pretty high-end and high-standard Mexican fine art here.

>> Museum-quality pieces I could say.

>> What made you decide that San Jose del Cabo was the place that you wanted to put your gallery?

>> We choose San Jose because it is very authentic, so Mexican buildings, Mexican place.

You can feel the flavor, you know, the passion, the art all around, so that is great.

>> Well, muchagracias.

Thank you very much.

>> You're welcome.

My pleasure.

Thank you.

>> From the art walk, I return to my accommodations at the Esperanza Resort near Cabo San Lucas, where a Mexican fiesta is in full bloom, complete with an abundance of typical foods, music, and good cheer.

What's the occasion?

None needed.

Just celebrating life in the Baja.

[Mariachi band playing] >> [Singing in Spanish] >> From its perch on Punta Ballena, Whale Point, overlooking the Sea of Cortez and along the Golden Corridor between San Jose and Cabo San Lucas, the Esperanza Resort offers a 5-star escape.

It features 57 luxurious casitas and suites, a full-service spa, a private beach, and a nearby golf course where guests could happily while away their stay.

Yet while the Esperanza offers a full menu of creature comforts, it also encourages explorations beyond the resort and discoveries one might otherwise miss.

When I first came tLos Cabos in 1985, there were only 2,000 people living on the entire cape, and that's from San Jose del Cabo all the way to the Pacific Ocean, and yet although Los Cabos is one of the fastest growing tourist areas in Mexico and busy Cabo San Lucas is just 7 miles away, here we are in a more natural setting with cardon cactus surrounding us, some of them over 300 years old.

You can get a sense here of the reason people were originally attracted to this area--the mountains, beautiful desert, and the sea not far away.

The further I go into the outback of Los Cabos, the more I feel I'm seeing the true Baja and the more I sense the people that are its heart and soul and rarely thought of in the tourist centers.

What makes Baja truly theirs is living, working, and dying on it, and that's true even if you're a potter from El Norte who came for a visit and has stayed for a lifetime.

You first came here to cape as part of a two-week vacation and to immerse yourself in Spanish, and you've stayed now how long?

>> 20 years.

>> 20 years.

So what was it about this area that really, well, brought you back?

>> I fell in love with this place.

>> Uh-huh.

>> It was really that kind of a feeling, you know?

So after a period of 6 months or so, I just decided maybe I better see if I can come and live here.

I love the desert, I really like the people, and the interesting kind of subsistence culture here just fascinated me.

>> You're talking about La Candelaria, which only has how many people?

>> 85.

>> 85, and then not too far from here, we have several hundred thousand more.

>> It's 45 minutes and 100 years to Cabo San Lucas.

[Cowbells clanging] [Bleating] Whack!

Whack!

Heh heh.

So this is like making a really crude but fast bowl.

Almost nobody makes pottery anymore.

It's one of the old traditions, but everybody here knows how to make it.

It's part of the old semi-subsistence tradition, and it goes right on the flame.

>> Lorena is not alone.

Close to 15,000 Norteamericanos live in Baja California Sur, the southern half of the 800-mile-long Baja peninsula.

More than 6,000 U.S. citizens live in Los Cabos, and like her, many have become Mexican, and while most reside in San Jose and Cabo San Lucas, they all have in common their love for the Baja.

[Band playing] The Norteamericano and Mexican populations come together every Saturday from November through May at the Organic Market San Jose del Cabo, which after 8 years has become much more.

The multicultural gathering of farmers, artists, and artisans is where friends meet and new friends are made.

Hola, senor.

>> Como esta?

>> Como se llama?

>> Ernesto.

>> Ernesto.

>> Salvia.

>> Salvia.

>> Sage.

>> Sage.

>> Mint.

>> Mint!

Ah.

Para los mojitos?

Ha ha ha!

The eggplant, cilantro.

>> Swiss chard.

>> Swiss chard.

Total organico?

>> Total organico.

Si.

>> Que bueno.

Gracias.

>> Gracias.

>> Look at these great-looking peppers here.

Hola, senora.

>> Hola.

Como esta?

>> Mmm!

Que rico!

>> Que rico!

>> Este, estamos apoyando para si que no... >> "Salva Cabo Pulmo."

>> "Salva Cabo Pulmo."

>> Save Cabo Pulmo, which is this beautiful natural reserve, and you know what that means.

There's no development.

Well, muchas gracias.

>> [Speaking Spanish] >> [Speaking Spanish] While Los Cabos prospers from the many tourists who vacation each year, in Santiago and the other small pueblos of the back country, people have survived for centuries.

This seemingly barren land is rich in agriculture, and the villagers thrive from the cultivation of mangos, oranges, and avocados.

Rarely visited but rich in cultural heritage and natural beauty are these oases scattered throughout the Baja Peninsula.

If you consider the Baja Peninsula as a body, here nearby is the heart that pumps blood or the life-nourishing fluids into the peninsula, and that is of course water.

We're near the Sol de Mayo Waterfall.

If you walk through or drive through the desert, it will seem barren and empty and desolate, but as a matter of fact, there is more life in the desert than you could ever imagine.

Pahor, what are you doing?

>> Just collecting some cochinilla from the prickle pear cactus.

>> Cochinilla?

>> Cochinilla.

It's a mushroom that grows here.

>> Would that be for dye?

>> For girls for makeup.

>> Really?

>> Yes.

>> Well, who would harvest that?

>> Definitely sailors, pirates back in the 16th, 17th Century.

>> So the Manila galleons, the Spanish sailors going to the Philippines, they would harvest that here and take it back to their sweethearts in Madrid.

>> That's correct.

>> I bet it made them very popular.

>> Yeah.

It was a perfect gift.

>> Let's see what else we can see on the trail down to the waterfall.

>> Yeah.

Let me show you the area.

>> It's very green here.

That's because this is an oasis.

>> The only source of natural water.

>> In the whole region?

>> 75% of the population live here.

Look at this.

>> OK. >> This is lomboy.

>> Lomboy.

>> Lomboy is an endemic tree.

Lomboy for us is our suntan lotion.

If I cut just a leaf of this... >> Uh-huh.

>> and you'll see that drop, that soap falling?

Just rub a little bit.

It's gonna turn white.

>> The desert may be harsh, but it gives you ways to cope with what's here.

>> Definitely.

>> Baja has so manendemic plants and animals, and cactus is one of them.

>> Yes.

>> How many cactus are there?

>> We have about 115 species in the Sonoran Desert, and 75% of them are endemic to the peninsula.

So you can imagine.

Look at this, Joseph.

>> Oh, that's beautiful.

>> That's Sol de Mayo.

Do you notice there are no rivers or stream?

As soon as the water falls into the pool, it goes underground and shows up again till Santiago.

>> That's why that's such a rich agricultural area.

>> That's a real oasis there.

>> Ah, yes, it is.

Well, it certainly looks like a great swimming hole.

>> It is.

Let's go.

>> Whoo-hoo!

Here in the canyons, valleys, and arroyos of the Sierra Laguna Mountains, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, in small fincas and ranchitos life is both simple and ch.

Available to travelers in search of peace and quiet, these islands of habitation stand as outposts of tranquility, a refuge from the stresses of modern life.

These people have been here for generations.

They're called Californios, which I understand is the translation of this area, basically breaks down to the hot oven.

They're off the grid here.

They're really all completely self-sufficient here.

People come here, and they bring the ingredients for lunch, and they have lunch with them.

She supplies some of the things like the tortillas, and we brought cheese for quesadillas.

We also have the vegetarian tamales.

Here they come.

Herbs and lettuces.

The quesadillas are made with a cheese.

It's called Chihuahua cheese.

It comes from the state of Chihuahua, made by the Mennonites.

There's a large community there in Cuauhtemoc.

Not everything that looks good tastes good, but... this does both.

Mmm.

Gracias.

Well, Pahor, I think we did very good except we did get a little help from la senora.

>> You're right.

>> After cultural adventures in Baja's rural countryside, I'm ready to ease back into the Los Cabos scene.

Besides the desert and the mountains, there's water everywhere, and I'm itching to get out on it.

After kayaking to famous Lovers' Beach, I'm set to trade my seagoing vessel for another and take in one of the area's popular activities, fishing on the Sea of Cortez along the Golden Corridor, that 20-mile strip between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo.

It's a beautiful day in the Sea of Cortez, and we're just moving right along the Golden Corridor, hotel after hotel, condo after condo, private home after private home now.

Diego has just set out the lines, so we're gonna do a little trolling for some good-eating fish.

The Sea of Cortez is a giant fish trap, and you'll find all sorts of different species of fish here and mammals, too, from the smallest fish to the grandest whale.

That's why they call it fishing instead of catching.

There are 800 species of fish in the Sea of Cortez, and up till now, they've all managed to elude my line.

[Reel winding] Should be a red snapper or maybe a mackerel.

OK.

Here he comes.

1, 2, 3!

>> Ha ha ha!

>> OK.

Thank you!

We caught a fish, not one we want to keep, but we caught a fish, eh?

Well, whether you catch fish or not, a day on the Sea of Cortez in Los Cabos is a beautiful day.

Chef, I didn't do too well fishing today, so you supplied the fish for this dinner tonight.

>> Yes.

>> But it is a local fish.

>> Si.

It's a parrot fish.

>> It looks beautiful, but how are you gonna cook it?

>> We are going to do Mexican style, which is a la talla and we use our pasilla chile sauce.

>> So this is a marinade basically.

>> Exactly.

>> OK. Well, let's get started.

>> OK. Great.

>> What can I do to help you?

>> Well, I'm going to chop some garlic, and you can mash it on the molcajete.

>> OK. Good.

That I can do.

>> And we have some oregano, some parsley, and cilantro.

This is a marination that we are going to put after when the fish is ready, so I have my fillet here, and I'm going to use our pasilla sauce.

>> OK.

Anything I can help you with, just tell me to grab it.

>> OK.

If you can give me some vegetables.

>> A little bit of everything?

>> Yes.

>> We have some bok choy here.

>> We have some bok choy, cherry tomatoes.

>> Cherry tomatoes.

Let's get those in there.

>> We have some carrots.

>> A couple of pieces of carrots.

>> Exactly.

>> And what is this interesting-- >> This a romanesco, which is kind of like a broccoli.

>> Wow!

Looking good, and then finally a little endive.

There you go.

>> And if you can pass me the white wine.

>> Oh.

Absolutely.

Always happy to pass the wine.

>> Ha ha ha!

So you can ring a little bit.

That's it.

>> That's it.

So we're gonna make, like, a little steamer in there, aren't we?

>> Exactly.

Papillote.

>> Papillote.

Sure.

Papillote originally had to do with parchment.

It was a French style of cooking.

>> We are going to cook this on the charcoal, so we have to use aluminum foil.

>> Aluminum foil, right, or go pssshht!

>> Exactly.

>> We'd have vegetables flambe.

Chef, you handle the fish, I'll handle anything with aluminum foil.

>> Exactly.

You have to put it on top of the charcoal.

>> OK. >> Direct into the charcoal, and that's it.

[Sizzling] >> Wow!

Look at that!

>> It's a beautiful fish on the grill.

>> That looks beautiful.

>> Very Mexican style.

>> That looks yummy.

Very Mexican style?

>> Yes, it is.

>> Chef, this is really beautiful, and so is the scenery.

Salute.

>> Salute.

Mucha gracias.

>> Morning on the beaches of Los Cabos is magical.

The brilliant sun, desert air, and sea breezes do wondrous things to your psyche and soothe your nerves.

On this morning, I'm tuning up for my hopeful encounter with the largest and perhaps most gentle mammal on Earth.

From October to March, you can see 8 species of whales in the waters that surround Los Cabos, and that's what we're doing today, heading out to see probably humpbacks and grays.

Whoo!

Look at the whale already!

Where are they heading?

What a gift to have all these whales just almost performing for us.

The whales seem to communicate with the people and enjoy it, as well.

I know that's--it's adding human traits to mammals, but I believe in that, and I believe they know we're here, and I believe they know we appreciate them, and, uh, if you do, they gift you with their presence.

I'm speechless.

Thank you for joining me on my Los Cabos, Baja California, Mexico, venture.

Los Cabos and indeed all of the Baja is a very special place, a world apart from the rest of Mexico.

Long ignored, it developed on its own and is influenced more by California than Mexico City.

Its people exude an easy grace, confidence, and love of life.

In 1985 when I first visited Los Cabos, it was two sleepy fishing villages, and the Golden Cordor was just a glimmer in some developer's eye.

These days, San Jose and Cabo San Lucas have a population of 300,000, and Los Cabos receives more than 1.5 million visitors a year.

Upon my return, I was sure I'd find that we had loved Los Cabos to death.

Instead, I discovered that it is still possible to have a genuine, authentic experience with the locals, be they Mexican or ex-gringos, with the natural environment, and with the majesty of nature.

A testament to its enduring vitality is the fact that thousands of whales migrate thousands of miles each year to come to the warm, clear waters of Los Cabos and start their family.

I'll keep coming as long as they do.

Whoo!

Look at the whale already!

Till next time, this is Joseph Rosendo, reminding you of the words of Mark Twain--"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness."

Happy traveling.

>> "Travelscope" is made possible by... San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio--deep in the heart.

And No-Jet-Lag, jet lag prevention.

For a DVD of today's show or any of Joseph's "Travelscope" adventures, call 888-876-3399 or order online at travelscope.net.

You can also e-mail us at tv@travelscope.net or write us at the address on your screen.

>> Now that we've frolicked with the whales in Los Cabos, Mexico, learn more at travelscope.net, where you can follow my worldwide adventures through my e-magazine, blog, podcast, and on Facebook.

Stay in touch--888-876-3399 or tv@travelscope.net.

Oh, what sweeties.

Just like my kitties at home.

[No audio] Whoa, ho!

Whoa!

You have to be very careful because they say it is an aphrodisiac.

>> Mm-hmm.