MICHAEL: Hello, and welcome to Ireland with Michael.

I'm Michael Londra, and in this show, I get to tell you everything I love about my home country the best way I know how, through music.

Today, we're in County Westmeath in the Midlands, Ireland's Hidden Heartland.

And it's a beating heart where the heritage of the land, its bogs, rivers, and lakes, as well as its history, triumph and dark days alike, are all embraced by its people, who take what they've been given and transform it, while honoring what came before.

It's in their art, their drink, and of course their music.

♪ So join me as we get right to the heart of Ireland, County Westmeath.

♪ ♪ ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael is made possible by... ♪ ANNOUNCER: Whether traveling to Ireland for the first time, or just longing to return, there's plenty more information available at Ireland.com.

♪ ANNOUNCER: CIE Tours, sharing the magic of Ireland for 90 years.

♪ ANNOUNCER: Aer Lingus has been bringing people home since 1936.

If you are thinking about Ireland, Aer Lingus is ready when you are to take you home.

(bird calling) ♪ MICHAEL: We're starting in the hub of County Westmeath, the town of Athlone, which just so happens to be the geographical center of the Emerald Isle.

It's the crossroads of Ireland, pretty much halfway to everywhere, and right on the River Shannon, giving it a history which has left its mark all around town.

By sheer coincidence, it's also the birthplace of one of my heroes, the greatest tenor Ireland has ever produced, Count John McCormack.

♪ Count John McCormack, born in Athlone in 1884, was celebrated for his performances of the operatic and popular song repertoires all over the world, renowned for his diction and breath control.

He was also a Papal Count, and that means all the glamour without any of the responsibility.

He became an American citizen like myself, before returning to live in the land that gave him his golden voice.

♪ Darling, I am growing old ♪ ♪ Silver threads among the gold ♪ GEAROID: He was born here in Athlone in 1884... MICHAEL: Athlone town historian, Gearoid O'Brien, knows the story of one particular building's importance to Count John McCormack.

Now we're right here in the Luan Gallery on the banks of the Shannon, a very modern, bright, of-the-day space here in Athlone.

But, this building itself is very relative to John.

GEAROID: It is.

I mean, this building was built in 1899 to keep the men of Athlone off away from the pubs.

It was built as a temperance hall.

It didn't succeed.

(Michael laughs) MICHAEL: It didn't work.

GEAROID: It didn't succeed.

But in 1903, that year, in November of that year, he came back to Athlone to have a concert here in this hall, which was then called the Father Mathew Hall.

And he appeared on stage for the first time, with his future wife Lily Foley.

For the people of Athlone, it would've been their first opportunity to hear him as a professional singer.

MICHAEL: Their superstar.

GEAROID: Their superstar.

♪ Shine upon my brow today ♪ ♪ Life is fading fast away ♪ MICHAEL: Look, there's no comparison between myself and the great John McCormack, but I also can't help myself from performing one of his great songs.

♪ The violets were scenting the woods, Maggie ♪ ♪ Displaying their charms to the bees ♪ ♪ When I first said I loved only you, Maggie ♪ ♪ And you said you loved only me ♪ ♪ Well, our dreams ♪ They have never come true, Maggie ♪ ♪ Our hopes, they never were to be ♪ ♪ When I first said I loved only you, Maggie ♪ ♪ And you said you loved only me ♪ Carmel, we're on the brand new Cycleway Bridge crossing the gorgeous Shannon River here in Athlone.

Can you tell me what you do in this lovely part of the world?

CARMEL: Yes, Michael.

I'm the manager of Luan Gallery, CARMEL: This lovely... MICHAEL: Right behind us.

CARMEL: Building behind us, and Athlone Castle.

MICHAEL: Tell me a bit more about the castle.

CARMEL: Yeah, well the castle was built originally by the Normans in the 13th century.

And it was to defend a crossing point on the River Shannon.

And then it was involved right throughout the centuries in defending the town.

But now, it's this modern visitor center, and the museum has these wonderful artifacts that range back over the centuries, that were found locally here in Athlone.

MICHAEL: Now the gallery here is only across the road from the castle... CARMEL: That's right.

MICHAEL: So you've got Old World and New World.

CARMEL: For sure.

MICHAEL: Tell me a bit more about the New World.

CARMEL: We showcase a wide range.

It's all visual art.

We've shown work by over 700 artists almost at this stage now.

MICHAEL: Wow.

CARMEL: We would change exhibitions about every two months at a time, and we try and factor in what our audience might like and what our visitors might like.

MICHAEL: The way I look at it, is that Athlone is a great base if you want to come to Ireland, to kind of make it your heart, or your home of vacation, and then head out in every direction.

CARMEL: It's becoming a really popular destination, with visitors from all over the world.

MICHAEL: And right here on the banks of the Shannon.

CARMEL: Of the River Shannon.

MICHAEL: Just a skipping stone's throw up the River Shannon, we come to Sean's Bar, a pub with a long and fascinating history.

During renovations in 1970, the walls of the bar were found to be made of wattle and wicker.

That itself dated back 900 years.

In this wall was found old coins minted by various landlords for barter with their customers and tenants.

Most of the wall and coins are on display at the National Museum, but this section behind me, remains here in the pub.

As it happens, they've been looking and they've found no older pub anywhere else, so although it might be a little early to say, only a thousand years, this may be the oldest pub in all the world.

If I can drink and be part of history, well, I'm a happy TV host.

♪ The actual history of drinking is one thing, but I suspect that drinking may have also played a part in the history of the fairy folk.

♪ Behind me, the hawthorn bush is in full bloom, and the Dún Na Sí Heritage Park here in Moate is full of them.

The name translates as the Fort of the Fairies, and it's named for these trees sacred in Ireland, and said to mark the presence of fairy forts, the peculiar abode of the Sí.

Now, not all hawthorns are doors to the underworld.

It's the odd ones that stand out.

Those that grow alone by a stream, or have too many thorns, or none at all.

So, look for the sort of different ones and keep an eye out.

You never know when a Sí might be around.

♪ Today, the center honors the traditions and activities of rural Ireland through the years, from working the plow to our evening's pleasures, (cock crowing) where nothing could be more joyful than when a piper or a fiddler came passing through.

The chairs were cleared, the neighbors gathered and dancing commenced.

Although the more formal step dancing is better known today through competitions and public performances, the old way, sean-nós, characterized by free improvised footwork, is what would've been danced on nights like that.

But enough talking about it.

Let's go and meet Joe and Róisín, some folks keeping the art of dance alive.

And I'm kind of hoping they'll show me a few steps.

You know, the singer never gets the chance to dance.

I love Irish dancing, without having any skills at Irish dancing whatsoever.

But you two are two different types of Irish dancers.

I'll talk to Róisín first.

You are what's called a sean-nós dancer.

Now, if I'm right, sean-nós means old ways.

Is that right?

R ÓIS ÍN: Old style, yeah.

MICHAEL: Old style.

So what's the heart of old style dancing?

R ÓIS ÍN: It's more flat to the ground and you can move your arms.

It's more relaxed.

MICHAEL: So do you want to show me that then?

R ÓIS ÍN: Yeah.

(feet stomping on floor) MICHAEL: Okay.

That's- that's not exactly, you know, I can do that... R ÓIS ÍN: Yeah.

MICHAEL: In rhythm.

All right, so... R ÓIS ÍN: That's a very basic one.

MICHAEL: Okay, and then how do you up the ante then?

How do you... R ÓIS ÍN: You do the shuffles.

MICHAEL: Okay.

R ÓIS ÍN: So you go... (feet shuffling and stomping) So, you do two shuffles and stomp.

MICHAEL: Bum, bum, bum, bum bum.

R ÓIS ÍN: Yes, perfect.

MICHAEL: Okay.

Alright, keep going.

R ÓIS ÍN: So, and then the fast shuffles.

MICHAEL: The- the fast shuffles, okay.

R ÓIS ÍN: Then that's more kind of jumping back.

MICHAEL: Okay.

R ÓIS ÍN: So you're going... (feet tapping and stomping rhythmically) MICHAEL: Oh yeah.

(making bobbing sounds) R ÓIS ÍN: Yes.

MICHAEL: Alright, sure.

Off you go.

Show me, show me what you've got and then I'll try and join you.

R ÓIS ÍN: Okay, perfect.

(feet tapping and stomping rhythmically) (Róisín laughing) MICHAEL: All right.

Okay, so that's- that's a kind of a loose way of dancing, right?

R ÓIS ÍN: Yes.

MICHAEL: Now the way Joe dances, is a lot more, probably more rigid and fixed.

Well, so there's a...

I know there's some basics to Irish, there's a core step Irish dancing as well?

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: And what is that?

JOE: Well, the side step and the one, two, threes are the two core steps for it.

MICHAEL: Right.

Now, so a one, two, three is one, two, three, (feet tapping rhythmically) one, two, three, one, two, tree.

Okay, very good.

I've got that.

MICHAEL: And the sevens.

JOE: Now the sevens.

Hop, two, three, four, five, six.

MICHAEL; Hop, two, three, four, five, six, seven.

JOE: Very good.

Perfect, very good.

MICHAEL: Okay.

Alright, so if we did a one, two, three, one, two, three, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven.

JOE: Okay.

MICHAEL: Alright.

JOE: Two, three.

(feet tapping rhythmically) MICHAEL: Hup, I got that.

Okay.

So do you do any of the type of dancing that she does?

JOE: No, I don't do sean-nós.

No, I do heavy dancing.

MICHAEL: I think that the North American audience will know heavy dancing from Riverdance.

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: Because, it's very rhythmic and fixed.

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: Now, would you say that you are one of the people who kinda influenced what Riverdance became?

JOE: Well, Riverdance was very good for Irish dance.

It promoted it big time, and it lift it up through that and... MICHAEL: It made- it made all you Irish dancers very sexy and cool, right?

JOE: It did, it did yeah, for the first time.

MICHAEL: Well, there's one rhythmic dance that I love, called St. Patrick's Day.

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: And I'm going to see if I can follow you doing it.

Would you?

JOE: No problem.

MICHAEL: Give a few steps.

JOE: Okay, let's go.

MICHAEL: Off you go.

JOE: Two, three, begin.

(feet tapping rhythmically) (Joe vocalizing music) There you go.

MICHAEL: Hup I'm not the worst, huh?

JOE: Very good.

MICHAEL: I won't be able to walk for a week though.

You know that, right?

♪ This is Belvedere House, and it has something of a cursed history to it.

♪ It was built in 1740 as a hunting lodge for Robert Rochfort, the 1st Earl of Belvedere.

Well, it ended up as Rochfort's retreat, after the so- called wicked earl locked away his wife with the servants in their previous home at Gaulstown, for allegedly having an affair with Robert's brother, Arthur.

Arthur was later put on trial, fined £20,000, a staggering amount, which he couldn't pay, so the earl locked him away too, and Arthur spent 18 years in debtor's prison.

The earl didn't earn his moniker for nothing.

Arthur was only released along with the earl's poor wife when Rochfort died at last in 1774.

Despite all the cruelty, he left behind a pretty gorgeous house and gardens.

♪ The earl's most striking mark on the grounds, are its numerous follies, impressive structures that serve absolutely no purpose whatsoever.

This, the Jealous Wall, is the largest of these.

It's a sham ruin built on the edge of the property, after the charming earl had a falling out with his other brother, George, who lived on the adjacent estate.

Just to block the view next door, he built a wall at immense personal expense.

Sound familiar?

♪ Ireland's geography is remarkably varied, but one of our most unique features are our bogs, which abound in the Midlands.

These environments are brimming with biodiversity, and here at Celtic Roots Studio, Helen Conneely is taking inspiration from her surroundings and making it her mission to craft breathtaking sculptures out of the bog oak, sacred wood, which has been partially fossilized, preserved by the power of the peat.

Helen, we've never actually met.

I've heard and seen your work for the longest time, for about 20 years.

So I finally get to meet you.

HELEN: And it's lovely to meet you too.

MICHAEL: Tell me about what bog oak is.

HELEN: Okay, so when I'm telling you about bog oak, I'm literally telling you about the history of Ireland for the Midlands of Ireland, and the magical Hidden Heartlands.

We go right back to 10,000 years ago after the ice age.

And as the ice age moved, it gorged out a very- huge lakes in the center of Ireland.

So now you had the trees growing into the side of the lake, and they grew there for about 500 years.

They were really good at surviving over water.

The ones that didn't, were pushed underneath.

And those dead plants are what we call peat.

And it preserved those trees that fell into the lake.

And in 1990 we started our studio, and we started to carve those trees for sculpture.

MICHAEL: So you accept visitors who can come in, and touch and feel this, because you... HELEN: And, we actually... MICHAEL: It's so hard to describe what it is to people.

HELEN: Yeah.

MICHAEL: Until you- you see it and feel it, and sense what it is.

But you do something even more remarkable, in that you teach people how to carve.

HELEN: Yeah.

It's kind of intimate.

Again, I tell the story of the bogs while we're carving.

MICHAEL: So tell us, let's have a look at this stuff, and- and what you can do with it.

I can't understand how you can take something as rough and- and hard, although ultimately it is soft, I- I think, and how you're able to carve it.

HELEN: Quite difficult to carve.

So what we're going to do, is we're going to get what we call a rasp.

It allows you, if we work with something like this, (rasp grating) we're gonna start to just literally... And because with the root, this comes from the root of the tree, you can't do any harm.

I keep saying to people, you're evolving your own form within it.

MICHAEL: Oh, right.

HELEN: And- and- I'm going to give you this, if you're right-handed.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

HELEN: I'm gonna say hold this in your left.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

HELEN: Quite a lot.

Put it down on kinda like a table.

MICHAEL: Oh, solid.

HELEN: Yeah, and then, or like this.

And then you start.

(rasp grating) MICHAEL: Oh yeah.

HELEN: And while it's quite dense, you say, "Am I going to get a reaction?"

Yes, you do.

MICHAEL: Yes, you do.

HELEN: You can see already.

MICHAEL: Pretty immediately.

HELEN: Yeah, absolutely.

Yeah.

MICHAEL: So it seems like, you know, in looking back to ancient times, you still have to look forward with your design.

So I think it's pretty amazing that you're able to kinda link the two.

HELEN: Yeah.

MICHAEL: But there is that connection, because that- that through line with the wood is there, I guess.

HELEN: Yeah.

And I, yeah, and there's a pureness so- and yet, as you say, for modern or for how we live, that there's a relevance and a connection.

(bird calling) ♪ MICHAEL: At the heart of life in Westmeath, and for that matter, all of Ireland, is the River Shannon.

♪ Commemorated in countless songs, it's one thing to admire its wide waters from the banks, and something else entirely to glide across its surface for yourself.

As generations of fishermen, bargemen, and ferries have done for centuries.

Today, water taxis and guides who spend their lives on the Shannon are waiting for a chance to bring you out into this ancient waterway.

Pearse, I feel like I know you already, because you and I have great love for the water.

Mine is out on the ocean down in Wexford, and you're here in the Hidden Heartlands, just outside Athlone, on these gorgeous lakes.

So we've been out on the water for about 90 minutes, and I loved it.

We're just leaving Athlone.

And you did two things for me, 'cause for a while there it was pretty exhilarating, because we picked up the speed and I was shouting for joy.

But now we're in this peaceful little side lake, and I think this is probably the essence to- to Shannon Waterways.

Is that why you love it?

PEARSE: If I was to say anything, what was my dream, and I dream over the winter months when I can't take a boat out on the water, and I just dream about places like coming in here.

Here we have tranquility, you have the swallows, the swifts all feeding.

This time of the year you have the mayfly, and later in the summer, this whole bay will be covered in water lilies.

So you have just those beautiful colors throughout the whole summer.

MICHAEL: You know what you have more than anything else here?

Peace.

It's so still.

PEARSE: No Michael, the whole place is.

You can come into one of these little bays, and like, there are no boats, there are no people.

And you can just turn the engine off, as I would do on a regular Sunday, turn the engine off and allow the boat just drift.

It'll drift into the rushes.

It'll drift forever, and you can just sit there and just listen to the birds.

MICHAEL: So, you host people on your private boat every day, from all over the world.

PEARSE: Yeah.

MICHAEL: What do you think is- why do you think people come to this part of Ireland?

PEARSE: They come here to see the colors, the peace, and the history of the area.

And when they come here, a lot of them would say to me, "I didn't realize it.

Didn't realize it was as beautiful as this."

♪ MICHAEL: From the chill of the Shannon to the warmth of the pub, in every town and village in Ireland, you know there's one thing that brings everyone together like nothing else.

Music.

♪ Honoring that heritage, is what this show is all about.

It's also precisely what some locals in Westmeath aimed to do more than 70 years ago.

And it's safe to say they succeeded in a big way.

It was 1951 here in the town of Mullingar, when the madcap idea of an all-Ireland festival of music, the Fleadh Cheoil na h Éireann came to fruition.

It just makes sense that it started here, as Mullingar is a musical town, absolutely thrumming with it.

Ever since then, it rotates towns bi-annually, and has grown into the world's largest annual celebration of Irish music, language, song and dance, attracting some 500,000 visitors to the host town every year.

I mean, this thing is massive.

And 70 years later in 2022 and 2023, the festival returned to its roots in Mullingar.

I'm here to meet an organizer and native son of Mullingar, as well as a talented traditional banjo player in his own right, Joe Connaire.

♪ ♪ Joe, we're in the heart of a very vibrant town that I love, Mullingar, an electric music town.

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: And you are very much part of the music in town, as being part of the founding committee of... JOE: Fleadh Cheoil na h Éireann.

I'm the chairman of the Fleadh executive committee, here from Mullingar.

MICHAEL: So people who are involved in Irish music from all over the world... JOE: Yep.

MICHAEL: Come to a particular town... JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: Once a year... JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: And they play not only in contests against each other... JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: But when those contests are over... JOE: Correct.

MICHAEL: That's when the really- really the party starts then, right?

JOE: Absolutely.

It's basically, if you can imagine this town, and it's a big town with wide streets and there's a lot of tributaries off the main street, there's music on every corner, every street.

The- the town is literally packed with up to a half million people for the- for the entire week.

So it's just- it's a major event showcasing our culture of traditional Irish music, song, dance, and the Irish language.

♪ ♪ MICHAEL: Now I know there's another particular town that's gonna take the reins from you, JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: When- when Mullingar waves a goodbye.

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: I know it's coming to my town... JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: To Wexford Town.

And I for sure will not be one to miss it.

JOE: Yes.

Well look, nobody would want to miss Fleadh Cheoil na h Éireann, and people that don't understand the event, once they go to it, they'll never miss an event going forward.

And look, it's best luck to Wexford there.

MICHAEL: I'm looking forward to it.

JOE: Oh yeah, absolutely.

So am I, because the heat will be off us.

MICHAEL: Oh yeah, yeah.

You could just go and enjoy the party, huh?

JOE: Absolutely.

♪ ♪ MICHAEL: Thanks for joining me on my travels around County Westmeath.

I'm Michael Londra, and I hope to see you next time on Ireland with Michael.

But for now, cheers.

Sláinte.

ANNOUNCER: Want to continue your travels to Ireland?

Your choice of Ireland with Michael DVD Season One, Two, or Three, with bonus concert footage, is available for $30.

Ireland with Michael: A Musical Journey CD, with songs from Michael and his guest artists, is available for $20.

Ireland with Michael Companion Travel Guide, featuring places to visit, as seen in all seasons, is also available for $30.

This offer is made by Wexford House.

Shipping and handling is not included.

MICHAEL: To learn more about everything you've seen in this episode, go to IrelandWithMichael.com.

ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael was made possible by... ♪ ANNOUNCER: Whether traveling to Ireland for the first time, or just longing to return, there's plenty more information available at Ireland.com.

♪ ANNOUNCER: CIE Tours, sharing the magic of Ireland for 90 years.

♪ ANNOUNCER: Aer Lingus has been bringing people home since 1936.

If you are thinking about Ireland, Aer Lingus is ready when you are to take you home.

MICHAEL: OK, put your hands up in the air!

Come on, let's get a-waving.

♪ In my heart its rightful queen ♪ ♪ Ever loving, ever tender ♪ MICHAEL: That's it.

♪ Ever true ♪ Like the Sun your smile has shone ♪ MICHAEL: Go on, Wexford.

♪ Gladdening all it glowed upon ♪ ♪ MICHAEL: Hello, and welcome to Ireland with Michael.

I'm Michael Londra, and in this show, I get to tell you everything I love about my home country the best way I know how, through music.

Today, we're in County Westmeath in the Midlands, Ireland's Hidden Heartland.

And it's a beating heart where the heritage of the land, its bogs, rivers, and lakes, as well as its history, triumph and dark days alike, are all embraced by its people, who take what they've been given and transform it, while honoring what came before.

It's in their art, their drink, and of course their music.

♪ So join me as we get right to the heart of Ireland, County Westmeath.

♪ ♪ ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael is made possible by... ♪ ANNOUNCER: Whether traveling to Ireland for the first time, or just longing to return, there's plenty more information available at Ireland.com.

♪ ANNOUNCER: CIE Tours, sharing the magic of Ireland for 90 years.

♪ ANNOUNCER: Aer Lingus has been bringing people home since 1936.

If you are thinking about Ireland, Aer Lingus is ready when you are to take you home.

(bird calling) ♪ MICHAEL: We're starting in the hub of County Westmeath, the town of Athlone, which just so happens to be the geographical center of the Emerald Isle.

It's the crossroads of Ireland, pretty much halfway to everywhere, and right on the River Shannon, giving it a history which has left its mark all around town.

By sheer coincidence, it's also the birthplace of one of my heroes, the greatest tenor Ireland has ever produced, Count John McCormack.

♪ Count John McCormack, born in Athlone in 1884, was celebrated for his performances of the operatic and popular song repertoires all over the world, renowned for his diction and breath control.

He was also a Papal Count, and that means all the glamour without any of the responsibility.

He became an American citizen like myself, before returning to live in the land that gave him his golden voice.

♪ Darling, I am growing old ♪ ♪ Silver threads among the gold ♪ GEAROID: He was born here in Athlone in 1884... MICHAEL: Athlone town historian, Gearoid O'Brien, knows the story of one particular building's importance to Count John McCormack.

Now we're right here in the Luan Gallery on the banks of the Shannon, a very modern, bright, of-the-day space here in Athlone.

But, this building itself is very relative to John.

GEAROID: It is.

I mean, this building was built in 1899 to keep the men of Athlone off away from the pubs.

It was built as a temperance hall.

It didn't succeed.

(Michael laughs) MICHAEL: It didn't work.

GEAROID: It didn't succeed.

But in 1903, that year, in November of that year, he came back to Athlone to have a concert here in this hall, which was then called the Father Mathew Hall.

And he appeared on stage for the first time, with his future wife Lily Foley.

For the people of Athlone, it would've been their first opportunity to hear him as a professional singer.

MICHAEL: Their superstar.

GEAROID: Their superstar.

♪ Shine upon my brow today ♪ ♪ Life is fading fast away ♪ MICHAEL: Look, there's no comparison between myself and the great John McCormack, but I also can't help myself from performing one of his great songs.

♪ The violets were scenting the woods, Maggie ♪ ♪ Displaying their charms to the bees ♪ ♪ When I first said I loved only you, Maggie ♪ ♪ And you said you loved only me ♪ ♪ Well, our dreams ♪ They have never come true, Maggie ♪ ♪ Our hopes, they never were to be ♪ ♪ When I first said I loved only you, Maggie ♪ ♪ And you said you loved only me ♪ Carmel, we're on the brand new Cycleway Bridge crossing the gorgeous Shannon River here in Athlone.

Can you tell me what you do in this lovely part of the world?

CARMEL: Yes, Michael.

I'm the manager of Luan Gallery, CARMEL: This lovely... MICHAEL: Right behind us.

CARMEL: Building behind us, and Athlone Castle.

MICHAEL: Tell me a bit more about the castle.

CARMEL: Yeah, well the castle was built originally by the Normans in the 13th century.

And it was to defend a crossing point on the River Shannon.

And then it was involved right throughout the centuries in defending the town.

But now, it's this modern visitor center, and the museum has these wonderful artifacts that range back over the centuries, that were found locally here in Athlone.

MICHAEL: Now the gallery here is only across the road from the castle... CARMEL: That's right.

MICHAEL: So you've got Old World and New World.

CARMEL: For sure.

MICHAEL: Tell me a bit more about the New World.

CARMEL: We showcase a wide range.

It's all visual art.

We've shown work by over 700 artists almost at this stage now.

MICHAEL: Wow.

CARMEL: We would change exhibitions about every two months at a time, and we try and factor in what our audience might like and what our visitors might like.

MICHAEL: The way I look at it, is that Athlone is a great base if you want to come to Ireland, to kind of make it your heart, or your home of vacation, and then head out in every direction.

CARMEL: It's becoming a really popular destination, with visitors from all over the world.

MICHAEL: And right here on the banks of the Shannon.

CARMEL: Of the River Shannon.

MICHAEL: Just a skipping stone's throw up the River Shannon, we come to Sean's Bar, a pub with a long and fascinating history.

During renovations in 1970, the walls of the bar were found to be made of wattle and wicker.

That itself dated back 900 years.

In this wall was found old coins minted by various landlords for barter with their customers and tenants.

Most of the wall and coins are on display at the National Museum, but this section behind me, remains here in the pub.

As it happens, they've been looking and they've found no older pub anywhere else, so although it might be a little early to say, only a thousand years, this may be the oldest pub in all the world.

If I can drink and be part of history, well, I'm a happy TV host.

♪ The actual history of drinking is one thing, but I suspect that drinking may have also played a part in the history of the fairy folk.

♪ Behind me, the hawthorn bush is in full bloom, and the Dún Na Sí Heritage Park here in Moate is full of them.

The name translates as the Fort of the Fairies, and it's named for these trees sacred in Ireland, and said to mark the presence of fairy forts, the peculiar abode of the Sí.

Now, not all hawthorns are doors to the underworld.

It's the odd ones that stand out.

Those that grow alone by a stream, or have too many thorns, or none at all.

So, look for the sort of different ones and keep an eye out.

You never know when a Sí might be around.

♪ Today, the center honors the traditions and activities of rural Ireland through the years, from working the plow to our evening's pleasures, (cock crowing) where nothing could be more joyful than when a piper or a fiddler came passing through.

The chairs were cleared, the neighbors gathered and dancing commenced.

Although the more formal step dancing is better known today through competitions and public performances, the old way, sean-nós, characterized by free improvised footwork, is what would've been danced on nights like that.

But enough talking about it.

Let's go and meet Joe and Róisín, some folks keeping the art of dance alive.

And I'm kind of hoping they'll show me a few steps.

You know, the singer never gets the chance to dance.

I love Irish dancing, without having any skills at Irish dancing whatsoever.

But you two are two different types of Irish dancers.

I'll talk to Róisín first.

You are what's called a sean-nós dancer.

Now, if I'm right, sean-nós means old ways.

Is that right?

R ÓIS ÍN: Old style, yeah.

MICHAEL: Old style.

So what's the heart of old style dancing?

R ÓIS ÍN: It's more flat to the ground and you can move your arms.

It's more relaxed.

MICHAEL: So do you want to show me that then?

R ÓIS ÍN: Yeah.

(feet stomping on floor) MICHAEL: Okay.

That's- that's not exactly, you know, I can do that... R ÓIS ÍN: Yeah.

MICHAEL: In rhythm.

All right, so... R ÓIS ÍN: That's a very basic one.

MICHAEL: Okay, and then how do you up the ante then?

How do you... R ÓIS ÍN: You do the shuffles.

MICHAEL: Okay.

R ÓIS ÍN: So you go... (feet shuffling and stomping) So, you do two shuffles and stomp.

MICHAEL: Bum, bum, bum, bum bum.

R ÓIS ÍN: Yes, perfect.

MICHAEL: Okay.

Alright, keep going.

R ÓIS ÍN: So, and then the fast shuffles.

MICHAEL: The- the fast shuffles, okay.

R ÓIS ÍN: Then that's more kind of jumping back.

MICHAEL: Okay.

R ÓIS ÍN: So you're going... (feet tapping and stomping rhythmically) MICHAEL: Oh yeah.

(making bobbing sounds) R ÓIS ÍN: Yes.

MICHAEL: Alright, sure.

Off you go.

Show me, show me what you've got and then I'll try and join you.

R ÓIS ÍN: Okay, perfect.

(feet tapping and stomping rhythmically) (Róisín laughing) MICHAEL: All right.

Okay, so that's- that's a kind of a loose way of dancing, right?

R ÓIS ÍN: Yes.

MICHAEL: Now the way Joe dances, is a lot more, probably more rigid and fixed.

Well, so there's a...

I know there's some basics to Irish, there's a core step Irish dancing as well?

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: And what is that?

JOE: Well, the side step and the one, two, threes are the two core steps for it.

MICHAEL: Right.

Now, so a one, two, three is one, two, three, (feet tapping rhythmically) one, two, three, one, two, tree.

Okay, very good.

I've got that.

MICHAEL: And the sevens.

JOE: Now the sevens.

Hop, two, three, four, five, six.

MICHAEL; Hop, two, three, four, five, six, seven.

JOE: Very good.

Perfect, very good.

MICHAEL: Okay.

Alright, so if we did a one, two, three, one, two, three, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven.

JOE: Okay.

MICHAEL: Alright.

JOE: Two, three.

(feet tapping rhythmically) MICHAEL: Hup, I got that.

Okay.

So do you do any of the type of dancing that she does?

JOE: No, I don't do sean-nós.

No, I do heavy dancing.

MICHAEL: I think that the North American audience will know heavy dancing from Riverdance.

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: Because, it's very rhythmic and fixed.

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: Now, would you say that you are one of the people who kinda influenced what Riverdance became?

JOE: Well, Riverdance was very good for Irish dance.

It promoted it big time, and it lift it up through that and... MICHAEL: It made- it made all you Irish dancers very sexy and cool, right?

JOE: It did, it did yeah, for the first time.

MICHAEL: Well, there's one rhythmic dance that I love, called St. Patrick's Day.

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: And I'm going to see if I can follow you doing it.

Would you?

JOE: No problem.

MICHAEL: Give a few steps.

JOE: Okay, let's go.

MICHAEL: Off you go.

JOE: Two, three, begin.

(feet tapping rhythmically) (Joe vocalizing music) There you go.

MICHAEL: Hup I'm not the worst, huh?

JOE: Very good.

MICHAEL: I won't be able to walk for a week though.

You know that, right?

♪ This is Belvedere House, and it has something of a cursed history to it.

♪ It was built in 1740 as a hunting lodge for Robert Rochfort, the 1st Earl of Belvedere.

Well, it ended up as Rochfort's retreat, after the so- called wicked earl locked away his wife with the servants in their previous home at Gaulstown, for allegedly having an affair with Robert's brother, Arthur.

Arthur was later put on trial, fined £20,000, a staggering amount, which he couldn't pay, so the earl locked him away too, and Arthur spent 18 years in debtor's prison.

The earl didn't earn his moniker for nothing.

Arthur was only released along with the earl's poor wife when Rochfort died at last in 1774.

Despite all the cruelty, he left behind a pretty gorgeous house and gardens.

♪ The earl's most striking mark on the grounds, are its numerous follies, impressive structures that serve absolutely no purpose whatsoever.

This, the Jealous Wall, is the largest of these.

It's a sham ruin built on the edge of the property, after the charming earl had a falling out with his other brother, George, who lived on the adjacent estate.

Just to block the view next door, he built a wall at immense personal expense.

Sound familiar?

♪ Ireland's geography is remarkably varied, but one of our most unique features are our bogs, which abound in the Midlands.

These environments are brimming with biodiversity, and here at Celtic Roots Studio, Helen Conneely is taking inspiration from her surroundings and making it her mission to craft breathtaking sculptures out of the bog oak, sacred wood, which has been partially fossilized, preserved by the power of the peat.

Helen, we've never actually met.

I've heard and seen your work for the longest time, for about 20 years.

So I finally get to meet you.

HELEN: And it's lovely to meet you too.

MICHAEL: Tell me about what bog oak is.

HELEN: Okay, so when I'm telling you about bog oak, I'm literally telling you about the history of Ireland for the Midlands of Ireland, and the magical Hidden Heartlands.

We go right back to 10,000 years ago after the ice age.

And as the ice age moved, it gorged out a very- huge lakes in the center of Ireland.

So now you had the trees growing into the side of the lake, and they grew there for about 500 years.

They were really good at surviving over water.

The ones that didn't, were pushed underneath.

And those dead plants are what we call peat.

And it preserved those trees that fell into the lake.

And in 1990 we started our studio, and we started to carve those trees for sculpture.

MICHAEL: So you accept visitors who can come in, and touch and feel this, because you... HELEN: And, we actually... MICHAEL: It's so hard to describe what it is to people.

HELEN: Yeah.

MICHAEL: Until you- you see it and feel it, and sense what it is.

But you do something even more remarkable, in that you teach people how to carve.

HELEN: Yeah.

It's kind of intimate.

Again, I tell the story of the bogs while we're carving.

MICHAEL: So tell us, let's have a look at this stuff, and- and what you can do with it.

I can't understand how you can take something as rough and- and hard, although ultimately it is soft, I- I think, and how you're able to carve it.

HELEN: Quite difficult to carve.

So what we're going to do, is we're going to get what we call a rasp.

It allows you, if we work with something like this, (rasp grating) we're gonna start to just literally... And because with the root, this comes from the root of the tree, you can't do any harm.

I keep saying to people, you're evolving your own form within it.

MICHAEL: Oh, right.

HELEN: And- and- I'm going to give you this, if you're right-handed.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

HELEN: I'm gonna say hold this in your left.

MICHAEL: Yeah.

HELEN: Quite a lot.

Put it down on kinda like a table.

MICHAEL: Oh, solid.

HELEN: Yeah, and then, or like this.

And then you start.

(rasp grating) MICHAEL: Oh yeah.

HELEN: And while it's quite dense, you say, "Am I going to get a reaction?"

Yes, you do.

MICHAEL: Yes, you do.

HELEN: You can see already.

MICHAEL: Pretty immediately.

HELEN: Yeah, absolutely.

Yeah.

MICHAEL: So it seems like, you know, in looking back to ancient times, you still have to look forward with your design.

So I think it's pretty amazing that you're able to kinda link the two.

HELEN: Yeah.

MICHAEL: But there is that connection, because that- that through line with the wood is there, I guess.

HELEN: Yeah.

And I, yeah, and there's a pureness so- and yet, as you say, for modern or for how we live, that there's a relevance and a connection.

(bird calling) ♪ MICHAEL: At the heart of life in Westmeath, and for that matter, all of Ireland, is the River Shannon.

♪ Commemorated in countless songs, it's one thing to admire its wide waters from the banks, and something else entirely to glide across its surface for yourself.

As generations of fishermen, bargemen, and ferries have done for centuries.

Today, water taxis and guides who spend their lives on the Shannon are waiting for a chance to bring you out into this ancient waterway.

Pearse, I feel like I know you already, because you and I have great love for the water.

Mine is out on the ocean down in Wexford, and you're here in the Hidden Heartlands, just outside Athlone, on these gorgeous lakes.

So we've been out on the water for about 90 minutes, and I loved it.

We're just leaving Athlone.

And you did two things for me, 'cause for a while there it was pretty exhilarating, because we picked up the speed and I was shouting for joy.

But now we're in this peaceful little side lake, and I think this is probably the essence to- to Shannon Waterways.

Is that why you love it?

PEARSE: If I was to say anything, what was my dream, and I dream over the winter months when I can't take a boat out on the water, and I just dream about places like coming in here.

Here we have tranquility, you have the swallows, the swifts all feeding.

This time of the year you have the mayfly, and later in the summer, this whole bay will be covered in water lilies.

So you have just those beautiful colors throughout the whole summer.

MICHAEL: You know what you have more than anything else here?

Peace.

It's so still.

PEARSE: No Michael, the whole place is.

You can come into one of these little bays, and like, there are no boats, there are no people.

And you can just turn the engine off, as I would do on a regular Sunday, turn the engine off and allow the boat just drift.

It'll drift into the rushes.

It'll drift forever, and you can just sit there and just listen to the birds.

MICHAEL: So, you host people on your private boat every day, from all over the world.

PEARSE: Yeah.

MICHAEL: What do you think is- why do you think people come to this part of Ireland?

PEARSE: They come here to see the colors, the peace, and the history of the area.

And when they come here, a lot of them would say to me, "I didn't realize it.

Didn't realize it was as beautiful as this."

♪ MICHAEL: From the chill of the Shannon to the warmth of the pub, in every town and village in Ireland, you know there's one thing that brings everyone together like nothing else.

Music.

♪ Honoring that heritage, is what this show is all about.

It's also precisely what some locals in Westmeath aimed to do more than 70 years ago.

And it's safe to say they succeeded in a big way.

It was 1951 here in the town of Mullingar, when the madcap idea of an all-Ireland festival of music, the Fleadh Cheoil na h Éireann came to fruition.

It just makes sense that it started here, as Mullingar is a musical town, absolutely thrumming with it.

Ever since then, it rotates towns bi-annually, and has grown into the world's largest annual celebration of Irish music, language, song and dance, attracting some 500,000 visitors to the host town every year.

I mean, this thing is massive.

And 70 years later in 2022 and 2023, the festival returned to its roots in Mullingar.

I'm here to meet an organizer and native son of Mullingar, as well as a talented traditional banjo player in his own right, Joe Connaire.

♪ ♪ Joe, we're in the heart of a very vibrant town that I love, Mullingar, an electric music town.

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: And you are very much part of the music in town, as being part of the founding committee of... JOE: Fleadh Cheoil na h Éireann.

I'm the chairman of the Fleadh executive committee, here from Mullingar.

MICHAEL: So people who are involved in Irish music from all over the world... JOE: Yep.

MICHAEL: Come to a particular town... JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: Once a year... JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: And they play not only in contests against each other... JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: But when those contests are over... JOE: Correct.

MICHAEL: That's when the really- really the party starts then, right?

JOE: Absolutely.

It's basically, if you can imagine this town, and it's a big town with wide streets and there's a lot of tributaries off the main street, there's music on every corner, every street.

The- the town is literally packed with up to a half million people for the- for the entire week.

So it's just- it's a major event showcasing our culture of traditional Irish music, song, dance, and the Irish language.

♪ ♪ MICHAEL: Now I know there's another particular town that's gonna take the reins from you, JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: When- when Mullingar waves a goodbye.

JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: I know it's coming to my town... JOE: Yes.

MICHAEL: To Wexford Town.

And I for sure will not be one to miss it.

JOE: Yes.

Well look, nobody would want to miss Fleadh Cheoil na h Éireann, and people that don't understand the event, once they go to it, they'll never miss an event going forward.

And look, it's best luck to Wexford there.

MICHAEL: I'm looking forward to it.

JOE: Oh yeah, absolutely.

So am I, because the heat will be off us.

MICHAEL: Oh yeah, yeah.

You could just go and enjoy the party, huh?

JOE: Absolutely.

♪ ♪ MICHAEL: Thanks for joining me on my travels around County Westmeath.

I'm Michael Londra, and I hope to see you next time on Ireland with Michael.

But for now, cheers.

Sláinte.

ANNOUNCER: Want to continue your travels to Ireland?

Your choice of Ireland with Michael DVD Season One, Two, or Three, with bonus concert footage, is available for $30.

Ireland with Michael: A Musical Journey CD, with songs from Michael and his guest artists, is available for $20.

Ireland with Michael Companion Travel Guide, featuring places to visit, as seen in all seasons, is also available for $30.

This offer is made by Wexford House.

Shipping and handling is not included.

MICHAEL: To learn more about everything you've seen in this episode, go to IrelandWithMichael.com.

ANNOUNCER: Ireland with Michael was made possible by... ♪ ANNOUNCER: Whether traveling to Ireland for the first time, or just longing to return, there's plenty more information available at Ireland.com.

♪ ANNOUNCER: CIE Tours, sharing the magic of Ireland for 90 years.

♪ ANNOUNCER: Aer Lingus has been bringing people home since 1936.

If you are thinking about Ireland, Aer Lingus is ready when you are to take you home.

MICHAEL: OK, put your hands up in the air!

Come on, let's get a-waving.

♪ In my heart its rightful queen ♪ ♪ Ever loving, ever tender ♪ MICHAEL: That's it.

♪ Ever true ♪ Like the Sun your smile has shone ♪ MICHAEL: Go on, Wexford.

♪ Gladdening all it glowed upon ♪ ♪