♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Today on "America's Test Kitchen," Erin makes Julia a caramelized-onion, pear, and bacon tart, Adam reviews dustpans and brushes, and Joe makes rigatoni with tomatoes, bacon, and fennel.

It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."

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♪♪ -There are many types of onion tarts.

Some require a fluted tart pan and a delicate pastry, while others use a preheated baking stone and a long-fermented yeast dough.

But today, Erin's got a quick recipe for us that uses a cast-iron skillet.

-I certainly do.

Yes.

This recipe has a streamlined one-pan method... -Mmm!

-...and the flavor is full on.

We have caramelized onions and bacon and pears and goat cheese.

-Yum!

-And the base of it is just a simple pizza dough.

So, over here, I have 2 cups, or 11 ounces, of bread flour, plus 2 tablespoons.

So, we're using bread flour here, not all-purpose flour.

Bread flour has a higher protein content, which is going to give our crust more structure and allow for more gluten development.

-Makes sense.

-Alright.

So, to this, I'm going to add 1 teaspoon, plus an 1/8 of a teaspoon of instant, or rapid-rise, yeast.

-Okay.

-Alright.

So, I'm just going to add that.

And I'm going to pulse this just to combine.

Just two to three 1-second pulses.

So, Julia, I'm going to use 3/4 of a cup of water, or 6 ounces.

And the water is at 110 degrees.

-Interesting.

-And so it's a little warm, and that warmth is going to allow our yeast to kind of, like, give it a boost to start activating it.

-Great.

-So, we're just going to let it go for 30 to 40 seconds, until a dough comes together.

Just gonna check it out.

Okay.

So, that's been about 30 to 40 seconds, and as you can -- -Well, that was easy.

-Very easy.

And as you can see, it's kind of come together into this dough.

We're going to now let this sit for 10 minutes.

This process is called autolyse.

Autolyse is when the flour has time to absorb the water.

And that is very important so that protein is going to develop and more gluten is going to be developed, giving our dough more structure.

Alright, Julia, so, it's been 10 minutes.

So, I'm going to add 3/4 of a teaspoon of table salt.

And, often, you might see salt being added with the other dry ingredients.

-Mm-hmm.

-We did not do that on purpose because salt will actually inhibit the formation of gluten.

It will draw moisture out of that dough.

So we want to add it after the autolyse process.

Now I'm adding a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil, and this is adding richness and flavor.

So, now I'm going to process this for about 30 to 60 seconds to incorporate the oil and the salt and until it starts to come together.

Alright.

So, it is -- As you can see, it came together, clearing the sides.

-It's actually kind of fun to watch.

-It's really fun.

And it's slightly sticky, which is exactly what we want.

Now I'm just going to lightly... -Whoa!

-...lightly spray our surface.

-I was not expecting that.

-You were not expecting that.

I'm not using flour.

I don't want to add any more flour to the dough.

This is just going to prevent it from sticking, some thin spray.

So, now I'm just going to knead it for about a minute, until it forms a nice satiny-smooth ball.

So, now I'm just taking the dough and just forming it, giving it, like, one last spin on the counter.

-That's gorgeous.

-Putting it into a beautiful ball.

Alright, so, now I'm just going to transfer the doughball into a bowl, but I'm going to first lightly spray it with oil.

And I'm going to cover it.

So, we want this dough to have time to rise.

So, it's going to take about an hour to an hour and a half, and it's going to double in size and is at room temperature, so it's going to be pretty cool.

I love watching doughs rise.

-Yeah, me too.

-Yeah.

Alright, Julia, we're ready to make the topping.

-I like what I see.

-Enter bacon.

-Yes.

-Yes.

So, we have eight slices of bacon that I finely chopped.

We're cooking it in a 12-inch cast-iron pan.

-Mm-hmm.

And this is going to be the pan you're going to make the tart in.

-Exactly.

So, this pan is going to do it all, and starting with the bacon.

So, I'm going to turn this on to medium heat... [ Clicking ] ...cook this, and render out that fat.

It's going to take about seven to nine minutes.

And we want that fat to render out, we want the bacon to actually become nice and crispy, and you're going to start to smell it.

-Mm-hmm!

-So, I'm gonna kind of let you look at this and watch it.

[ Both laugh ] -Drool?

-It's raw, so don't start eating it yet.

So, this is for you.

-Thank you.

-It's gonna start to render.

Just keep it moving.

-Gotcha.

-And let's move over to our onions.

So, this is an onion tart, right?

So we have 2 pounds of yellow onions.

-Okay.

-And we're slicing them 1/4 of an inch thick.

So, I've just cut the onion in half and peeled it.

I'm just going to remove this root end.

-Mm-hmm.

-I'm just going to cut this into 1/4-inch-thick slices.

Alright.

-That looks mighty fine.

-Check that out.

Yep.

See, the pieces really shrunk.

All that fat kind of rendered out.

-Mm-hmm.

-And now we're just left with the nice salty, bacony bits.

Just gonna transfer all the bacon bits to a paper-towel-lined bowl.

So I'm going to reserve this for later.

And we want that bacon fat.

That's like liquid gold.

-Yes.

-It has a ton of flavor.

And we're going to use it throughout the rest of the tart-making process.

I'm going to add 2 tablespoons of bacon fat back to our pan.

So, now I'm gonna add the 2 pounds of thinly sliced onions.

Okay, so, now we're gonna start that caramelization process.

I'm going to add 3/4 of a teaspoon of table salt.

The salt is going to help to draw out the moisture from the onions and help kind of, like, really kick-start the process.

I'm going to add 1 1/2 teaspoons of brown sugar.

-Yep.

-And I'm gonna add 1 teaspoon of fresh-chopped thyme leaves.

-Mmm!

-Okay.

Now I just want to stir this all together to combine.

I really want that salt to coat the onions.

-Man, that smells good.

It doesn't take much -- bacon, onions, thyme.

-Oh, gosh.

Okay, so, I'm going to cover it.

So, we're going to let this cook for about 8 to 10 minutes, until that moisture really kind of comes out.

Alright, Julia, it's been 10 minutes.

So, stage two is cooking it without the lid.

So, we're going to keep it over medium heat for about another 10 minutes or so.

I'm going to stir it occasionally.

The onions are going to start to caramelize and just get darker and darker until they're nice and deep golden brown.

Alright, Julia, so, here we are.

-Those are beautiful.

-It's been about 20 minutes, and we have beautiful caramelized onions, aren't they?

-Mm-hmm!

-You can see that they've gotten nice and golden brown.

-Mm-hmm.

-They smell delightful.

-One more step here.

I'm going to add 2 tablespoons of balsamic vinegar.

-Ooh, yum!

-And this is just going to add a little bit more sweetness, a little bit more complexity, a little bit of tanginess, too.

Again, low and slow is the name of the game here.

We're just going to let that cook for about two minutes, until it's nice and absorbed, and it's going to be even sweeter.

So, our onions are finished, officially.

Gonna turn that heat off.

Gonna transfer the onions to a bowl.

Okay, so, now I'm just going to take a paper towel and I'm just going to wipe this pan out.

Let's move on to our dough.

So, our dough is -- -Oh, look at that.

-Yeah.

So, it's doubled in size.

You'll know when your dough is ready by just -- What I like to do is, I just kind of use my knuckle and press it.

Your imprint should stay, but it should also kind of push back.

-Makes sense.

-Alright, so, it's ready to go.

I'm just going to lightly dust my work surface.

-Oh, that's pretty.

-Isn't it beautiful?

Alright, so, I'm just going to cut this in half, because we're making two tarts.

-Mmm!

-Yours and mine.

-I like it.

-Okay?

I'm just going to press this with my fingers, just gonna kind of punch out that air and stretch it out, start the stretching process.

I start from the center, work my way out.

So, we're just going to roll this into an 11-inch circle.

We're using a 12-inch skillet.

-Mm-hmm.

-The bottom of the pan is 10 inches.

-Right.

-So it's going to fit the bottom and go up on the sides just about a half of an inch.

We have this one pan from our onions and our bacon.

-Mm-hmm.

-You have your own 12-inch cast-iron skillet over there.

-Ah!

This is my skillet.

-Yes, it is.

If it was just me cooking this, I would cook one tart at a time.

We're cooking two, and I have you as my little sous-chef here.

-Yeah.

And we have plenty of ovens.

-And we have plenty of skillets, too.

Going back to the bacon fat, I'm gonna take a tablespoon of bacon fat, add it to my pan.

You want to scoop out a tablespoon and add it to your pan.

-Alright.

-Alright, grab your pastry brush.

And now you just want to smear that around the base of the pan and also slightly up the sides of the pan.

-Okay.

-I'm just going to lay this into the pan.

And, again, it's going to be basically on the bottom and it's going to go slightly up the sides.

This dough is really forgiving, so -- And, also, you have a nicely greased pan, so it's gonna -- you can kind of push and pull as you need to.

And if it starts to stretch back, just kind of push it back.

-Mm-hmm.

-Alright, so, I'm going to roll out the second tart dough, and when I'm finished with this, we're going to start building our tarts.

Okay, so, now we're going to build our tart.

We're going to start with the onions.

So, I'm going to take half.

That is for you.

-Thank you.

-I'm going to distribute the caramelized onions.

You want a 1/2-of-an-inch border without any onions.

-Nice even layer?

-Nice even layer, yep.

-Okay.

-Yeah.

Next, my Bosc pear here.

You can use any pear, but we really like Bosc because of its flavor, and, also, it holds up to cooking.

So it really holds its structure, it doesn't mush out.

I cored it out and then I sliced it crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces.

-Great.

-Alright, so, the 1/4-inch piece is going to hold up in the oven.

-Mm-hmm.

-And, also, they're not too big.

Next, we go back to our bacon.

I'm just going to take half of these, sprinkle them evenly over the tart.

And the final ingredient -- goat cheese.

-Mmm!

-So, this is creamy goat cheese.

We have the salty/smoky from the bacon, we have the sweet pear, we have the sweet caramelized onions with a little bit of tanginess from the balsamic vinegar, and we have the creamy goat cheese.

-Oh!

-Yeah.

So, we're not going to just throw this in the oven.

We're going to start it over a medium-high heat, okay?

So, again... -Cool!

-...this is the beauty of using a skillet.

We can do that.

So, I'm just going to turn -- Turn your heat to medium high and put your pan back on.

And you're going to see and you're going to hear that this is going to start to cook the bottom of our crust.

So, what we're looking for -- we want the edge of the crust to start to set.

And we're going to take a peek underneath to make sure we watch that.

And we want to cook it until it's spotty brown.

So, you can see some of my bacon fat is bubbling on the side.

You know that the pan is hot and it's starting to cook.

I can also tell that the sides of the dough are starting to set up.

We want the edges of the dough to also kind of set.

-Ooh!

That looks good.

-And there we go.

So, you can also see kind of the spots.

-Nice!

-Okay.

So, turn your heat off, as you just did.

So, that's the first step of the cooking process.

Second step is in the oven.

So, I have two ovens heated to 500 degrees.

And the rack is at the upper middle.

And we're going to cook these in the oven for about seven to nine minutes.

And we want that to just kind of really finish cooking through.

-Oh, that smells good.

-Ah!

Check that out.

-Wow!

That's gorgeous.

-Yeah.

The edges are nice and golden brown.

And you can hear that sizzle.

I know that the bottom is perfect.

And I'm just going to transfer the tart.

Has nice structure.

Okay.

Alright.

-Awesome.

I'm gonna go check my tart.

-Let's go check yours.

-Ha ha!

-Nicely done, Julia.

-Yeah.

I had a good teacher.

-Beautiful.

-Alright.

Ooh, that pan is hot.

-Okay, and we're gonna let the tarts cool for about just a couple minutes before we cut into them.

Alright, are you hungry?

-Mmm!

I am.

-Would you like to jump in?

-Yes.

Alright, so, we're almost finished here.

So, I'm just going to slide this tart onto the cutting board.

And one last element.

I am going to add some minced chives to this.

So, a total of 2 tablespoons -- 1 tablespoon for mine, and 1 tablespoon for yours.

[ Crunching ] -Oh!

-Listen to that crisp crust.

-Yep.

You don't need a pizza stone with this recipe.

-Yeah, that's really clever.

-Yeah.

And that bacon fat was the fat that we used to help to crisp it up.

Help yourself, Julia.

-Mmm!

Thank you.

-You're welcome.

-Alright, I'm going in.

-Going in.

-Mmm!

That dough is awesome.

-Mm-hmm.

-Crisp on the bottom.

It has good flavor.

Baked all the way through.

-Yep.

-And then on top, it's like, bam, bam!

Bacon, onions, pears.

I love it.

-Exactly.

Yeah.

Yep.

The creaminess, the soft onions.

-Mm-hmm.

-The pears still have a little bite to them.

-Mm-hmm.

And the goat cheese.

-Mm-hmm.

Those little bits of bacon.

Nice and crispy and crunchy.

-Oh, that's good.

-A little salt.

-Erin, this is spectacular.

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

-Absolutely.

-You want to make this magnificent and easy tart, cook the onions in rendered bacon fat, transfer the dough to a bacon-fat-greased cast-iron skillet, and top with pears, goat cheese, and, of course, the crisp bacon.

From "America's Test Kitchen," a magnificent recipe for caramelized-onion, pear, and bacon tart.

"A Tale of Two Tarts."

I come from a long line of women that care about clean floors and have strong opinions on the subject, so I'm eager to hear what Adam has to say about dustpans.

-You know, Julia, the women in your family, it was the men in my family.

My dad was pretty meticulous about things, and one of his morning rituals was to get up and sweep around the edge of the kitchen floor.

As I age, I'm becoming my dad.

I do exactly the same thing.

So, both of us care about dustpans and brushes.

We tested seven different sets.

The price range was $8 to $32.

And we tested them by sweeping up flour, sawdust, raw rice, chickpeas, and broken glass off of different floor surfaces.

So, let's talk about the brush first.

I want you to try sweeping up some rice with this red number that's right in front of you.

-I like the color -- nice and jazzy.

Hmm.

-What's going on there for you, Julia?

-I'm having trouble figuring out the best way to hold it.

It might be what position you're in, but it's just a little awkward.

-You know what?

You are ending up on exactly the same page as the testers, who felt like handles that were vertically set like that... -Yeah.

-...were a little more awkward to hold, made it a little harder to get into crevices and tight corners, little less comfortable for long brushing sessions.

They preferred when the handle was set horizontally, like this.

It felt like an extension of the hand.

-Yes.

-I can tell you want to try that, don't you?

-I want to take it for a test-drive.

Ooh!

-It's better.

-I do like it.

You really can feel like you can get into the corner of the kitchen.

-In terms of the brush heads... -Mm-hmm.

-...they range from about 5 1/4 inches to 9 inches.

Bigger was better, because you can get more in a single sweep.

Testers also really loved when the bristles angled out at the tip.

-Yep.

-Again, for those corners and crevices.

They made it a lot easier to get in.

-Mm-hmm.

-The materials for the bristles were either plastic, like this one -- This is horsehair.

-Beautiful.

And that one is silicone.

-No, thank you.

-Yeah.

I'll tell you, the silicone and the horsehair both had problems.

The plastic one was definitely the best of the three.

It got fine particles.

It gave enough scrubbing power if you really had to get in there and get something heavier off there.

They also liked when they were really densely packed.

There's a lot of bristles here.

That helped with the cleaning.

In terms of the dustpan part of the equation, this made all the difference.

That little bumper, that rubber bumper at the front of the dustpan, just helped seal it to the floor and made it easier to get the gunk in there.

-Mm-hmm.

The bumper is everything.

-The bumper is everything when it comes to the dustpan.

-Agreed.

-This was our winner.

This is the Rubbermaid dustpan-and-brush set.

It's $9.65.

The brush had plastic bristles that angled out at the tip and a comfortable handle.

The dustpan had that seal at the front.

-Yep.

-Everything we could want.

-Awesome.

Thanks, Adam.

-You're welcome.

-So, there you have it.

If you're in the market for a new dustpan and brush, check out Rubbermaid's dustpan-and-brush set at about $10.

The cooking instructions on nearly every package of dried Italian pasta pretty much say the same thing -- "Boil in salted water until al dente, then drain before tossing with the sauce."

But today, Joe is going to buck tradition and show us a streamlined one-pot method for cooking pasta.

-That's right.

We're going to cook the sauce and the pasta in the same pot.

-Very clever.

-That will save dishes, but also the stress of having to get two pots ready at the same time.

-I like it.

-To be successful, we're going to use a few powerhouse ingredients, including one of my favorites -- bacon.

I've got six slices here that I've cut into 1/2-inch pieces.

And we're going to start them in a cold Dutch oven.

Starting in a cold Dutch oven will allow the fat to render better so the bacon will get crispier before it burns.

-Mmm!

-So, we're going to turn it on to medium-high heat.

-Okay.

-It will take about 5 minutes.

You want to stir it quite often, because the bacon can really stick together at the beginning.

So, I don't know if you'd be willing, Julia, but could you look after the bacon?

-You bet.

-You look after the bacon.

I'll look after the onion.

-Okay.

-I've got a regular onion here.

We're going to chop it fine.

I just like to do one or two horizontal cuts... -Mm-hmm.

-...and then lots of vertical cuts.

Really nice and fine.

-Nicely done.

-And then we can just do the cross-cuts, and it's so satisfying when they peel off in these lovely little pieces.

Okay, the onions are done.

How's the bacon looking?

-Pretty good.

It's not crisp yet, but starting to leave a fond.

Starting to get a little brown around the edges.

You want to take the baton back?

-Yeah, I'll take that back.

Thank you so much.

This will just take another couple of minutes.

It's been about five minutes, and the bacon is looking lovely and crisp.

-Mm-hmm.

This is off to a good start.

-Absolutely.

Let's keep it that way.

So, I'm going to transfer the bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate using a slotted spoon.

-Ah, 'cause you want the fat left in the pot.

-We want the fat left in the pot.

Exactly.

That's why I love bacon so much.

You get the crispy bacon and you also get the precious oil, which has got so much flavor in it.

So, we're going to use this bacon fat.

You want about 2 tablespoons, which is about what we've got here, and we're going to use that to cook our onions.

[ Sizzling ] -Yes, that's a good sound.

-We're gonna put the heat to medium and we're going to add a 1/4 teaspoon of salt.

This will help draw out some of the moisture from the onions and help concentrate that sweetness.

We're going to cook these for about five minutes, until they're soft, yellow, and sweet.

-Mmm!

-Okay, Julia, you're back on.

Can you look after my onions.

-Yes.

Baton back to me.

-Back to you.

I've got 2 teaspoons of fennel seeds here.

-Mmm!

-Now, fennel and pork is just a classic Italian combination.

-Mm-hmm.

-I love using whole seeds.

You get these little pops of flavor that just give you so much when you bite into one.

-Yep.

-But to unlock some of that flavor, you want to crack the seeds.

You could use a pestle and mortar, but I'm just going to put these straight on my cutting board, take a skillet, and just -- Ah!

There we go.

Alright, so, these are nicely cracked.

Move these to one side and move on to our next powerhouse ingredient.

So, I've got two anchovies here.

Now, there's no anchovy in the recipe title, and that's because this dish is not going to taste of anchovies.

It's not going to taste fishy.

It's just going to accentuate all the other flavors.

-Mm-hmm!

-I really just want to mince it to a paste.

Now, I could run a knife over it, but what I like to do is just use the edge of my knife and just basically scrape it into that paste.

You really just smear it against the board.

-Nice.

-And in almost no time, you've got a pretty smooth paste.

-Yeah, it will just melt right into the sauce.

-Exactly.

We just want it to evenly distribute throughout.

You know, I like to think of it as nature's MSG.

-[ Laughs ] -It's just going to heighten everything else.

-Well said.

-It's been about five minutes, and the onions are smelling good.

They're looking good.

They're ready for our aromatics.

So, we're going to add our anchovies -- or anchovy paste now.

We're going to add our fennel seeds.

I've got three cloves of garlic that I've minced to a paste.

We really want that, again, to just meld into the sauce.

And a 1/4 teaspoon of red-pepper flakes for a little heat.

-A little heat.

-A little va-va-voom!

-[ Laughs ] -We're going to cook these for one minute, until they're fragrant.

Now, to this, we're going to add a 28-ounce can of diced tomatoes that I've drained.

And we're going to add these directly to the onion.

-Mmm!

-And we're going to cook these until they're dry and they've started to darken a little bit.

This will take about five minutes.

It's been about five minutes, and the tomatoes are looking dry and they've darkened a little bit.

And you can just get the smell.

It's almost like a tomato paste.

-Mm-hmm.

-Very concentrated.

So, now we're going to build our sauce.

I've got the juice from our can of tomatoes that we drained earlier.

We don't want to waste anything there.

And just pour that straight in.

2 1/2 cups of chicken broth, which is going to add some extra-savory flavor.

And 2 cups of water.

We're just going to bring this to a boil.

Julia, the sauce is now to a boil, and it's ready for our pasta.

-Okay.

-I've got a pound of rigatoni.

-Whole box.

-Whole box.

Rigatoni is a great choice for this dish, because even when it's fully cooked, it still retains some chew and bites.

-That's true.

-Gonna stir it in, return it to a simmer, which we're pretty much at.

We are going to cook the whole thing uncovered.

-Really?

-Which is not what you'd expect.

But we really want to make sure that the pasta is fully submerged, and that way, we needed the extra liquid.

But to have extra liquid, it would then be watery, so we need to concentrate it by evaporating it and reducing it down.

-Gotcha.

-You will want to stir it every so often.

And, also, you want to scrape the bottom of the pan so that it doesn't catch and scorch.

This will take about 15 to 20 minutes.

-Okay.

-It's been about 20 minutes, Julia, and the pasta is looking like it's ready.

Let me just test it.

The best way to check if it's done is by eating it.

Lovely.

-Mmm!

-So, I'll turn the heat off here.

So, at this point, we can check the consistency of the sauce.

The pasta is cooked.

The sauce -- it looks a little fluid still, but that's not a problem.

It will really thicken up as it cools down.

Now, as the pasta cooked, it absorbed loads of the sauce.

-Mm-hmm.

-But in return, it gave back some of its starches, and this is going to help emulsify the sauce into something really cohesive and emulsified.

So, it's ready to accept some extra ingredients.

I've got a 1/4 cup of grated Pecorino here.

And I've got 2 tablespoons of minced parsley.

This is for a little bit of freshness and a little bit of bite.

-Okay.

-And the whole thing should just come together as one cohesive whole.

Okay, I think we're ready to plate up.

-Alright.

Gorgeous.

-There we go.

So, let's get the bacon on.

-Oh!

-A little handful.

And some extra Pecorino just for that extra layer of flavor.

-Yes, please.

Alright.

The doneness of the pasta is what I'm really curious about here.

-Mm-hmm.

-Mmm!

It's perfect.

It's al dente, actually.

I expected it maybe to be a little on the mushy side or unevenly done, but no.

-Yeah, during testing, we really did try different shapes, and every time, rigatoni was just the one that we preferred.

-The flavor of that sauce is -- packs a punch.

You have the tomatoes, obviously, and the bacon, which I'm glad was crisp at the end.

I got the va-va-voom of that little bit -- -You got the heat?

-I did.

Of the red pepper flakes.

-When you get a bite of the bacon and the fennel seed, like, that's the winner.

Like, that's almost what you're going for.

-Yeah, I love that little pop of the fennel seed.

Joe, this is impressive.

Well done.

-Thank you so much.

-If you want to make this spectacular one-pot pasta meal, start by sautéing powerhouse ingredients, like anchovies and fennel seeds, right in the bacon fat, loosen the sauce with chicken broth and water, and simmer the rigatoni right in the sauce for about 20 minutes.

From "America's Test Kitchen," a fast and fabulous recipe for rigatoni with tomatoes, bacon, and fennel.

You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with our product reviews and select episodes at our website, AmericasTestKitchen.com/TV.

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-Plugrà European-style butter was created for all chefs, cooks, and bakers.

Slow-churned with 82% butterfat for a smooth texture and more pliability for flaky crusts.

Plugrà -- from professional kitchens to your home.

Sur La Table, where you can discover an assortment of provisions for your next meal or gathering.

From cookware and tools from a wide variety of kitchen brands to hands-on cooking classes, visit us at surlatable.com.

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