- Here's what's coming up- - Next, on You Ought Know.

A Wilmington brewery has tapped into a way to lend a helping hand to Ukraine.

- [Regina] They're serving up pizza and the prospect of a brighter future at this pizzeria.

- [Shirley] Plus we'll check out an oyster reef restoration program happening in our area.

- And a filling master tailor is using his skills to train the next generation of designers.

(lively upbeat music) Welcome to the show, I'm Regina Mitchell.

- And I'm Shirley Min.

Thanks so much for spending time with us.

- You know, Shirley, one of the things that led me to establish roots here in Philly, after I graduated from Temple, were the people, like everyone here just seems so caring.

- You are 100% right and so when there is a call for support, people tend to step up.

So one example, a local brewery, they're helping Ukraine by doing what it does best, brewing beer.

Wilmington Brew Works in Delaware is brewing a Ukrainian stout, as part of a global Brew for Ukraine campaign.

(lively upbeat music) Here at Wilmington Brew Works, the war in Ukraine weighs heavy on Head Brewer, Craig Wensell's mind.

The army veteran served in Afghanistan.

He's witnessed firsthand the devastation of war.

- I wanted to do it because I wanted to help.

You feel just so bad for the people that had no say in that situations.

The women, the children, the people that wanted no part of that, you just feel so bad for their situation, everything that's going on around them.

It's just not right.

- [Shirley] So when Craig saw a Facebook post from Lviv-based, Pravda Brewing, saying they stopped brewing their award-winning beers to start making Molotov cocktails to help fight against Russia, Craig reached out to the folks at Pravda.

- I thought that was a stroke of genius.

They basically told me that there was a lot of interest from American brewers, and that they were gonna start publicizing some of their recipes.

(lively upbeat music) And them just asking number one, us to make the beer here, to use their label and then contribute back to their cause.

- [Shirley] Craig started brewing Pravda's, Ukrainian imperial stout called "From San to Don," named after two Ukrainian rivers located on the Western and Eastern sides of the country.

- I thought it was particularly important because here you have brewers in the West contributing to the brewers that are in the East that are currently under siege.

- All the magics happening inside here.

- That's all the magic, trying to match a Ukraine water-chemistry profile to begin with, and then go from there.

- Oh my gosh.

The beer isn't ready yet but Craig let me sneak a taste, and boy does it pack a punch.

- It does smell delicious, doesn't it?

It's got some real chocolatey notes, a little bit hint of coffee.

You can taste that alcohol but it's mixed so nicely with the chocolate and coffee.

Our goal is to get $1000, 1000 cans and get that over to profit brewing as quickly as we can.

You feel good about being able to do something.

It's not as far as I'd like to go but hopefully, every little bit will help.

(lively upbeat music) - The first batch of the Ukrainian Imperial stout from San to Don, will be ready in mid April.

And Craig says if the first batch sells out, he can produce a second batch.

Now you can buy it in cans or on draft, in the Wilmington Brew Works tap room.

A dollar of every can will go back to Pravda Brewing, and their support of the Ukrainian Defense Forces.

At another local brewery in Royersford, Stickman Brewery is making a batch of Pravda's wit beer called "Frau Ribben Trop."

So check out both brewers on social.

(lively upbeat music) - Well, what goes better with beer than pizza?

And in Philly, you can find a pizzeria on just about every corner.

Yet really do you find one that's winning awards for its menu and its mission.

What makes a good pizza?

Do you think it is the sauce or the dough?

'Cause we always have this little fight about it.

- See I'm a sauce guy so for me, I would have to say it's the sauce, because I'm the one that like more sauce than cheese on pizzas.

- [Regina] When it comes to pizza, Muhammad Abdul-Hadi, knows a thing or two about making a good pie.

His restaurant in Philadelphia called "Down North", has won a few awards.

- Philadelphia Magazine, Best Square Pizza Philly 2021.

We gotta know from New York Times as their 50 Best Restaurants in the United States.

50 best restaurants in Philadelphia, according to Philadelphia Magazine.

- What inspired you to do this though?

I mean, the culinary market is filled with people.

And what inspired you to decide, you know what, I'm gonna do this, this is gonna be the business I choose.

- Why not?

Let's just go for it, it's typically how I do when I think about starting business.

Like, why not?

Let's just go for it, do it.

Never been scared to fail because even through different failure, you still take on the lesson.

- [Regina] No stranger to life's teachable moments, Abdul-Hadi was once in jail and released.

The experience changed his life.

- I noticed it was like just finding a place to rent.

It was not about the finances, if you can afford it or anything like that.

It's like, all right, well.

Yeah, we just gonna simply deny you because you have a criminal background and it's like, and you take that step back like, ooh wow this is reality.

- [Regina] Now all his business models include hiring ex-offenders exclusively.

And it seems to be the secret in his sauce.

- Yeah because these individuals, maybe, I'll just say staff and society, once they've paid their debt to society.

So I feel like to outline a business that's totally dedicated to them, their wellbeing and their growth in society is important.

And there's enough of them out here in the world.

It's never gonna be a shortage of people who've been adversely affected by the correction system.

So that was my thought crisis.

And what better area which recidivism place, particular community of individuals as well.

A lot of people have seen us on various different outlets and they've seen like a lot of the notoriety that we've gotten just over the past 10 months that we've been fully open, it's like one of those spots, you come and take pictures.

One of the famous Down North counter, take a picture of the roadmap and the recidivism right behind the counter.

It's like people love just supporting a business that fundamentally has a great cause and a great product, but just like you get the best of both world.

- Down North recently added a vegan menu, offering something to everyone.

And here's how you can donate to their mission.

(air whooshing) - When we think of body image concerns, a lot of times we think these are female-centric issues, but recent research shows us otherwise.

Here to talk about her new book, "Being You; the Body Image Book for Boys", is author and psychology professor, Dr. Charlotte Markey.

Charlotte, welcome back to the show.

- Thanks for having me again.

- So the last time you spoke with us, we were talking about this book, which is, "The Body Image Book for Girls", and this time you've written a book that is tailored towards boys.

Why did you feel like you needed to now write a book that speaks to boys?

- I started writing the book for boys before the book for girls even came out.

We know boys have body image concerns, we just have not been very good about talking about them.

And boys have gotten the message that these are female issues and they shouldn't talk about them either.

- Which couldn't be further from the truth.

And the book is evidence-based, right?

So what does that mean?

- Right, so I start with the research literature.

I'm a research psychologist and I've been doing research on body image for 25 years now.

And I start with that literature.

What is going on, what do we know for sure?

We know 75% of boys experience concerns about their body, we know that one-fourth to one-third of eating disorder patients are boys and men.

These are definitely issues that affect boys and men.

- So when we say positive body image, what does that mean exactly?

- It means not just being dissatisfied with our bodies, it means actually feeling kind of good, being content, being happy.

And it's pretty elusive to a lot of us but I think when we start with younger kids, we just stand a much better chance of getting them there.

- So how do we help our boys have that positive body image?

- I have a lot of advice in the book, but the one thing I would say to think about first is just how we conceptualize and talk about masculinity in our homes.

If we are reinforcing outdated ideas of masculinity and talking about being strong and stoic, then our boys are gonna get the message.

They can't talk about their feelings, they need to be muscular and big and buffed.

And this is all gonna play into concerns about their bodies as they go through adolescence.

- So what should we be telling them?

- We should tell them that it's okay to need help, it's okay sometimes to be sad, it's okay to be insecure, that during puberty, their bodies change just like girls bodies change.

- Social media has such an impact on all of our lives.

How is that affecting boys and how as parents, what can we do about that?

- Social media is so omnipresent and I think it's really scary for us parents, 'cause we didn't grow up with it- - And it's not going away.

- It's not going away.

So there's no point in really completely fighting it.

What we wanna do though is connect with our kids about social media.

Kids love to instruct their parents about popular culture.

So sit down with them and let them show you what they're doing on social media and talk with them about it, and that's a great place to start.

- And the boys' concerns about their bodies, how are they different from girls' concerns?

- Yeah, this is what's so interesting I think, and why these concerns often go unnoticed even by medical professionals, is that boys often act like they are trying to get healthier.

So they will start going to the gym a lot or they will cut out sweets.

And it seems like, oh, this is a positive change.

And then sometimes it just gets too extreme.

And exercise culture is really, really prevalent among boys and young men.

And so they just spend a lot of time in their heads worried about these issues.

- So we do need to kind of root that out of them and make the home a safe space for them to speak.

Charlotte, I love this book, "Being You; The Body Image Book for Boys", you have testimonials in here, there are myths that are relevant to boys and you even cover puberty so big kudos to you.

The book, "Being You; The Body Image Book for Boys", is available at the website, bodyimagebookforboys.com.

Charlotte Markey, thank you so much for being here.

- Thanks so much.

- In today's world, many old-fashioned skills have fallen by the wayside.

Sewing is one of these forgotten traditions.

So a Philadelphia master tailor is passing on his knowledge to future generations.

(lively jazz music) - I grew up in west Philadelphia and I went to Overbrook High.

I started out in 11th grade doing tailoring and that's where I got my formal training.

And after I graduated from high school, went to design school at a school called Tracy Warner.

It was at 401 North Broad Street, that doesn't even exist anymore.

It was actually a trade school and I took up men's and women tailoring design and I graduated in 1978.

I've been doing it now for a little over 40 years.

(lively jazz music) After graduating from Tracy Warner, a few years later, I became an instructor there.

Three years after that, I joined another design school that was located in Philadelphia called Craft Fashion Institute, which is also no longer in existence.

And that was also one of my reasons for trying to continue to open up this type of profession for young, aspiring designers and tailors, because it's very few places around where they can go to pick up this type of experience in craft.

(lively jazz music) Right after I stopped working as a teacher, I opened up my first shop at 13th and Wallnut, it was in an Empire Building, and I stayed there for about three years and I just outgrew it.

And then one day I was down in this particular area in Fabric Row, I noticed a store that was vacant and something just popped and said, "Ah, this is gonna be the place where I wanna be."

And here I am today, three decades later.

Fabric Row, it's been around actually since the early 1900s, generation after generation with some of the merchants here.

Fabric Row offered a lot of opportunities for us.

We didn't have to really go that far to get some of our supplies.

And it just seemed like a nice fit.

(lively upbeat music) I always had a desire to teach.

Back in the early '90s, I started having some private classes in the evenings and it just started growing from there.

Now I can't even count them students that have come through my school.

We go through the basic fundamentals first, hand-sewing skills, making various types of pockets and various types of zippers, the component parts that go into a garment.

It's important for me to give back.

When I was coming into this trade, I did find some individuals that really helped steer my career and nurture me and learn the craft.

And so this is one of the reasons why I want to give back.

I think we all, once we've been blessed to have it, those old sayings, "each one teach one", and that's what I try to do here at Baldwins.

- My goal mainly was to find my own avenue into fashion and I don't believe in accidents.

So I came in here and not only did I start working here, I realized he had a fashion institute and he was just so grateful enough to let me come and indulge in some of the classes.

So that was just a really huge blessing in my life.

(lively music) - I'm just blessed that I have this longevity and been in the game this long, three decades, and still going strong here in Queen village.

- If you have an interest in learning, sewing or tailoring, here's how you can contact the Baldwin Fashion Institute.

(lively upbeat music) What we wear says so much about who we are.

Here now to talk about the impact fashion and apparel has had on us across time, is Dr. Sarah Lynn, Co-curator of PENN Museums, "The Stories We Wear" exhibit.

Thanks for joining us.

- Very happy to be here.

- Oh, so glad to have you.

So as a fan of fashion, this just sounds so exciting, how did you and all of your co-curators who are also archeologists, come up with this idea?

- Yeah, at the PENN Museum, we're always looking for ways to make archeology and anthropology just more accessible to the public.

And what's more relatable and relevant than the things we put on our bodies and what we wear.

So we were hoping that by putting our archeological and anthropological objects on display next to contemporary and local stories, we would really bring these stories to life and make it more relevant to the public.

- I think you're so right about that.

I think what we don't take into consideration is how the things that we have is outerwear actually tells a lot about our personality, who we are, our self-worth.

Did you find that as you were putting this together?

- Absolutely, right alongside these elements of personal self-expression, we also find elements of group identity, things that identify us as part of a certain group.

So these wearable objects, clothing, adornment that say, I'm married or I am doing a certain job or I'm part of a certain rank or status.

So those elements of personal expression and group identity, I think are what make clothing and adornment so evocative and able to communicate who we are to the rest of the world.

- And I saw it was like 2,600 years of fashion.

What are some of the oldest pieces that you have on display?

- Yeah, the oldest material that we have on display is about 25, 2600 years old from Maykop in Southern Russia.

And we used this gold jewelry and weapons to tell the story of Scythian warrior women.

You might have heard of the Greek Amazons, right?

These terrifying warrior women, the Greeks were absolutely just terrified of them.

These mythological women who fought on horseback and used bows and arrows, very different from Greek women who are supposed to stay at home.

But these are actually based on real warrior women.

Scythian women, these nomadic tribes that lived in the erasion steps, sort of to the north and east of Greece, were very real.

And women fought on horseback, they used bows and arrows, and we know about them because they had these elaborate burials with horse burials, they were buried with weapons but also with jewelry.

So things that sort of marry male things, we think of weapons as very male and jewelry that we think of as quite feminine.

- That is so interesting.

Did you find that you had some favorites of your own?

- Absolutely yes, probably too many too name but two of my favorites you mentioned were all archeologists.

I'm actually a Greek archeologist and I love what I studied, but this was a really interesting experience for me, 'cause I got to actually talk to people who created and wore this material.

So two objects, this Hopi wedding ensemble was one of my favorites.

Right next to this over 100-year old wedding ensemble, which consists of a dress and a robe and heavily wrapped boots and a read carrying case with a shawl that a Hopi bride wore on the final day of her 10-day wedding ceremony, is right next to a contemporary story of a Hopi bride named Kara Hunani, who in 2019 invited the Arizona Republic to come and document her 10-day wedding ceremony.

So right next to this, you see these contemporary photos of a woman wearing the same type of dress, the same blanket, the same read care in case.

And that was really important to us to showcase that native people are not just in the past and these ceremonies are not just in the past, but people continue these traditions.

- I love it, that's so great.

And I feel like I just got my own guided tour.

I hope everybody at home did too.

And if not, you can always go and see this.

"The Stories We Wear" is on play until June 12th and here's how you can get tickets.

(lively music) - Working together helps win games.

So athletes from Central Regional High School in Tom's River, New Jersey, brought their a-game and got to work preserving the waterway.

(lively music) - [Girl] Baykeeper's mission is clean water.

All of our programming, all comes back to that mission of clean water for everyone.

- We found out a school in Florida was doing this program called Rings to Reefs.

Old hockey sticks that been donated were cutting them down and making oyster reefs out of them.

(metal grinding) (calm music) - Oysters, in order to land and grow and form reefs, they need a hard substrate to land on.

These habitats will provide not only substrate for oyster larva to land on, but also provide habitat, feeding grounds for other marine critters and increase biodiversity.

(calm music) - We want our kids to just be exposed to a million different things.

They're taking an interest in the environment, but now it's kind of hands on.

They're getting to see what the reefs are doing.

(lively upbeat music) - Everybody has something, a job to do, and it's good to help the environment out.

And it like represents us as hockey players.

- [Joe] We do the cutting first.

(metal grinding) They're cutting six long, six short.

They hand the 'em off to the drill table and the kids assemble 'em, bolt 'em together.

(lively music) - These are habitat units in our aquaculture facility, we purchased larva right after they've spawned.

And it takes about two weeks for them to set and land on these structures.

And once the oysters have set and grown a little bit, they're called spat.

So we then take the structures covered in spat and place them in the bay.

These structures then serve as habitats and hopefully more oysters will be able to spawn, the population will grow, turn into reefs.

This program with the hockey sticks is really amazing.

Being able to connect with a school and students build these units for us, it's a great partnership that started.

- And we're always like together and like no other teams really do anything like this.

- It's hard work, but it's fun.

Spending time with your team builds that team chemistry, builds the trust.

- It's given back to the community and not just playing hockey.

We are teammates on the ice, we're teammates off the ice.

- I've never been with a team that has done so much together, whether it's to help the environment just to grow better as a team, it makes me feel good.

(lively music) - [Girl] This project for the hockey team is great because it really allows us to expand our outreach and education.

This gives students and community members a chance to do hands-on science and have something tangible to understand.

- All of our kids are water kids.

They live on the water, they're up at the beach.

There's a big interest in the barn to get bay.

It just fit right now, it's perfect.

(calm music) (water splashing) - The New York, New Jersey Harper Estuary is home to a broad range of habitats, including wetlands, shorelines and coastal forests.

- In this month's Good Souls, Terry Greg introduces us to a Coatsville man who found a way to spread hope in a bag.

- [Shannon] I'm just happy to see him happy.

He's a completely different person than he was a year ago.

- [Regina] That's Shannon Watson, she provides life skills training and support for people with physical differences and disabilities.

And one of the people she serves is Steven Abarisha.

Steven is 45, he's lanky with dark hair and a big smile.

- Steven has a very rare neurological disorder, which makes it hard for him to control his body and also hard for him to speak with language.

Steven does understand everything everyone says and he understands not just English but also Arabic, smart guy.

- [Regina] But when the pandemic hit and lockdowns came, Steven's daily activities stopped.

- [Shannon] And every morning he would get up and he would ask is bus coming and we'd have to tell him no.

And he was becoming depressed.

- [Regina] Mary Kirk nominated Shannon and Steven for the Good Souls Project.

Mary has known Shannon since they were kids and says, Steven began working with Shannon, stuffing bags for Christmas to donate to those in need.

And the effort went so well that Shannon created a project just for Steven, aply called Steven's Bags."

- [Mary] So it was a very simple small project and I think their initial goal was maybe 10 bags.

- [Regina] Some were packed with food like tuna fish packets or bagels.

Others had blankets, gloves, socks and toiletries.

Shannon, Mary and her sister and Kirk helped fund the effort with the help of Steven's family.

But it got so big, they had to take it to Facebook.

Then people started donating via and Amazon Wishlist.

Now there's a Steven's Bag Facebook group with the only 300 members.

So far Steven, with the help of Shannon and Mary and the Steven's Bag crew, has decorated and assembled more than 300 bags, giving them out in Kensington with dozens more distributed in Coatsville.

Did you like going to Kensington?

- Yeah.

- Did you like meeting all the people there and helping them?

- Yeah.

- That's wonderful.

- He has an amazing compassion for people and you could see on his face, he was enjoying the experience but it was a little overwhelming and a little sad to see people in that condition.

Also joyful to be able to do something about it.

- [Mary] He knows that he's making a difference in other people's lives.

So it's huge, it's absolutely huge.

- [Shannon] Every time you turn around, he's helping someone else who really needs it.

- [Regina] And that's why Mary says Shannon is a good soul.

And Shannon says, Steven is one too.

- [Shannon] He just sees people in need and wants to help anyone no matter what their differences may be, can do something for someone else.

(lively music) - Way to go Steven.

You can hear about more Good Souls with host Cherry Greg, every Monday at 12:30 and 5:44 on WHYY 90.9 FM.

And to nominate a Good Soul, log on to whyy.org/goodsouls.

Lots of good souls in the show today.

Thanks everyone for Watching.

- That's right.

We hope you join us again next week.

Goodnight, everyone.

- Bye.

(lively upbeat music)