
Yellow Roads of Italy: Florence Through Tuscany
Season 8 Episode 7 | 24m 20sVideo has Closed Captions
Host Paulino Duran explores Florence by day and night.
Host Paulino Duran explores Florence by day and night, from the Ferragamo museum and a private wine tasting, to meeting locals on a walk through the city.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Music Voyager is a local public television program presented by WLIW PBS

Yellow Roads of Italy: Florence Through Tuscany
Season 8 Episode 7 | 24m 20sVideo has Closed Captions
Host Paulino Duran explores Florence by day and night, from the Ferragamo museum and a private wine tasting, to meeting locals on a walk through the city.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship♪♪♪ Duran: The open road has always been an open invitation to me... ♪♪♪ ...winding through new adventures and personal experiences.
Can I help work for you?
I want to work for you here, okay?
'Cause this -- this is the greatest gift ever, man.
And nowhere does this happen more often than along the yellow roads.
♪♪♪ On a Michelin map, one will find many different colored roads.
While red are the major highways, it's the yellow roads I'm chasing, the more scenic roads winding through a country, through cities and towns, and never knowing what lies just beyond the horizon.
I can't get over that we're on the top Yes.
...of a wall bike-riding right now.
Duran: It's these roads that are calling me on a journey unlike any other.
♪♪♪ My name is Paulino Duran, and I travel the world looking for exotic and unique experiences.
I'm always up for making new friends, listening to tall tales, and trying fantastic cuisine.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ So I planned out my trip.
My agenda is set, and I'm ready to explore the yellow roads.
♪♪♪ [ Cyril Giroux's "Bella" plays ] ♪♪♪ ♪ Quando ♪ ♪ Ti ho visto la prima volta ♪ ♪ Gia sentivo che eri mio ♪ Duran: Within the romantic and spirited country of Italy, there are many different regions with their own architecture, cuisine, and traditions which have influenced our world for thousands of years.
♪♪♪ I start my journey in the birthplace of the Renaissance.
[ Bell tolling ] ♪♪♪ Firenze -- or Florence -- is made for walking, which suits me perfectly.
My legs could use the exercise after a long flight.
♪♪♪ It's a city that instantly strikes me as stylish and soulful.
♪♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ I make some friends... That's intense.
[ Laughs ] That's intense.
I'll just be your background dancer.
You just keep doing it, and I'll just dance behind you like this.
I'll just background dance.
...and get some good advice about Florence Street food.
So, this dish right here is specific to Florence, he says.
Bollito misto.
The bollito is the muscular part of the cow.
Okay.
And they cook it for hours and a day at least.
My new friend Terry fills me in on the bollito, her favorite Florentine meal.
The bollito is like a pot roast.
It melts.
Okay.
But it melts.
That sounds delicious.
It's fabulous.
You want to try some with me?
Do you mind?
Come on.
Come on.
Have some food with me.
Come up here.
Who are you?
You can be my translator.
I'm a man who's hungry and needs help eating.
Come on.
Let's get in here.
Bollito.
Bollito.
Okay.
Very delicious.
Very delicious.
I like it.
[ Smooching ] Like, mwah!
Bollito!
Yeah?
Bollito.
Si?
Okay.
Okay.
I'm gonna give this a go.
Alright.
Cheers.
Cheers.
♪♪♪ Mmm.
Mm-hmm.
That's the best thing on the earth.
I agree.
♪♪♪ I'm also interested in the city's history.
What better way to learn about the influence of Florence than to attend an art history lecture?
Florence was once a Roman town.
It was a Roman town called Florentia.
That's where we get our word "Florence" from, I take it very seriously.
That is, to try to present the history of the city and get people excited and knowledgeable about this great city.
♪♪♪ Duran: I'm told the best pizza in Florence is at Finisterrae.
Paulino!
Colin, what's happening?
Hey.
Great.
Brenda said you were on your way.
And that is where I go to learn how to make an authentic Italian pie.
Okay, let's get to it.
Colin: My friend -- Paulino.
Si, si.
Ciao.
Paulino.
Nice to meet you.
My name is Calogero.
Calogero.
Nice to meet you.
We're gonna go make some pizza.
Yes.
Let's do this.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ [ Man singing in Italian ] ♪♪♪ Duran: So, how many pizzas do you make a day?
300 pizzas in 3 hours.
300 pizzas in 3 hours?
In 3 hours, yes.
For lunch.
Yes.
Are you kidding me?
Yes.
Yes.
Yes.
Yes.
Wow.
Paulino pizza!
Yes!
There it is.
It's hot in there, man.
It gets very, very hot.
They do an awful lot of work, these guys.
But last night, I must tell you, we had a group which was here, had these kids, 8, 10, 12 years old, and they made the most amazing pizzas ever.
My name is Ari.
I make pizza at Finisterrae.
There's 25 of them.
There was flour everywhere.
And the great thing was all the adults were all sitting, having coffee and drinking a glass of wine on their own.
Yeah, but whose pizza was better, mine or the kids?
Oh, the kids.
Easy.
Oh.
Sorry, mate.
[ Laughs ] Duran: Colin is not just passionate about good food.
His restaurant is adorned with portraits of Florence's Renaissance masters.
These are amazing people, all buried just in this beautiful church we can find outside.
We got Michelangelo, the greatest, Giorgio Vasari, as well, and Titian, as well.
Can't forget him.
Listen, while you're in Santa Croce, you have to go and see this church that we got outside.
Colin gets me into the Santa Croce church.
[ Choir singing in foreign language ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Suddenly the history of Florence comes to life as I am in the presence of the great masters of the Renaissance.
[ Singing continues ] ♪♪♪ I mean, look at this.
This is Michelangelo's tomb.
It's unbelievable.
[ Singing continues ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ The history of Italy can literally be found at your feet in the floor of this church.
♪♪♪ You know, I live in New York City, and I see the Statue of Liberty every day.
But to be here standing in front of the statue that inspired it, it's mind-blowing.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Ciao.
I head over to Hotel Brunelleschi, where I'll be staying tonight.
I was told to ask for Mario.
Welcome, sir.
Mario.
How are you?
Welcome to Florence.
Molto lieto.
Welcome to the oldest building of Florence.
We are right next to the Duomo, and we are right in the middle of the historical center, So, everything is walking distance.
Let me show you something unique for this hotel.
You know that this building was built on Roman ruins?
No, I didn't.
Underneath the reception, we do have a Roman ruin museum, the only hotel in Florence with a Roman room museum.
In the basement, artifacts and plates Duran: Wow.
of the Roman and Byzantine period have been found, as well as a Roman bath.
Please watch your step and pay attention.
The ceiling is very low.
♪♪♪ Ohh, tight squeeze.
[ Chuckles ] Wow.
So this is what it had been possible to put in light of a Roman bath, a so-called caldarium, where the Romans used to come and relax.
So, that's a top of an arch.
That's it.
So, it goes further down, you said?
Exactly.
You can really smell history right here, right now.
That's unbelievable.
That's very true.
Duran: It's late afternoon, and I head over to the Ferragamo Museum to attend an exclusive tour.
For me, this is a one-of-a-kind experience and includes a private tour with the famous fashion designer's family members.
It's a story of love and passion, this company, and it still is today.
Duran: I learn about the history of Salvatore Ferragamo, the legendary shoe designer, and his rags-to-riches story before we head outside and end our evening in style.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ The culture and spirit of Florence fade, and my journey takes me into the countryside, where I'm greeted by rolling hills and golden fields.
♪♪♪ Here, vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see.
Once harvested, they will produce Chianti, one of Italy's most famous red wines.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ The timeless landscape and medieval villages perched on hilltops guide me along the yellow roads to my next destination... ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ...where I meet up with Christiane Menzen to show me around Lucca on wheels.
Now, you told me something about bicycles and the wall.
Oh, and this is a great way to see the city because the walls today are a public area.
And today you can do the entire ring of walls with the bikes -- On top?
Yes.
So, definitely the best way to see the city is by sticking on the walls.
Let's go have a ride.
Okay.
So, let's go.
Andiamo.
We grab two bikes and embark on our journey.
♪♪♪ So, now you worked out something, Paulino... Si.
...that no enemy ever does.
Or did.
You conquered the walls of Lucca.
I did.
Because we are right on top.
We are in the park.
Yeah, I love the shade.
Yeah.
The shade feels so nice.
In the summer, it's beautiful.
Yeah, yeah.
And, you see, from 1972, you have these walls are without traffic, so only pedestrians and bikes are allowed on top.
Do you ever do any fancy tricks on the bike?
How many tricks do you know?
No, I don't trick with bikes.
You just stick with the big ramps, jumps?
No, no.
[ Laughs ] Here in Lucca, my yellow roads have turned into a bike path.
Now, I hear -- and tell me if I'm wrong -- but is it true the Rolling Stones are gonna be playing here in Lucca?
Yes, right where we are now and -- Can you get me tickets?
Hmm.
I think this will be very difficult.
But I have got two, eh?
Yeah?
I've got two, yes.
Yes, you've got two?
So you're a Rolling Stones fan.
Yes, I am.
Okay.
So, do you know "A Little Satisfaction"?
Actually, my favorite is "Jumpin' Jack Flash" and "Brown Sugar."
But, okay, everybody has his favorite.
You're my favorite for those two being your favorite.
[ Laughs ] Wow, that's incredible.
I always like a little -- ♪ I can't ♪ Both: ♪ Get no ♪ ♪ Satisfaction ♪ Yeah, take it away.
Take it away, girl.
Ah.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ My journey on the yellow roads across Italy takes me to the Italian Riviera... ♪♪♪ ...where I meet up with my friend Brenda.
She arranged a private cruise.
And together we make our way up the coast to five fishing towns known appropriately as the Cinque Terre.
♪ In pista ormai nessuno balla ♪ ♪ Le luci basse sopra il mare ♪ ♪ Mi ricordano un sapore che non trovero piu ♪ ♪ Guardo il cielo e, sospirando ♪ ♪♪♪ Brenda: I love the yellow roads because those are the ones we love to take.
They're they're roads less traveled, the ones that are most scenic.
But of course, in the Cinque Terre, there are no roads.
We simply -- The yellow roads are the water.
Blue water.
Blue water or the train.
Blue water.
Yeah.
Yeah, exactly.
Which is a really wonderful way to get off the beaten path.
♪♪♪ I find the captain and ask if he minds if I take the wheel for a bit.
Can I help work for you?
I want to work for you here, okay?
'Cause this -- this is the greatest gift ever, man.
He gives me a quick lesson on five towns that make up the Cinque Terre.
Cinque Terre.
Si, si.
Cinque Terre -- Riomaggiore the first.
Okay.
Manarola, Corniglia...
Okay.
...Vernazza, and Monterosso.
Duran: Tell me about some of these villages.
How do they differ from village to village?
I mean, they're so close in proximity, but I know they definitely have a unique personality.
Sure.
Sure.
Well, the first one, Riomaggiore, and the second one, Manarola -- they're truly small little fishing villages built into the rocks.
We get to Vernazza right behind us, which is spectacular.
It has a church.
It's really one of the most beautiful ports and with a little castle up on the hill.
And then another one is way up top, while Monterosso, further along, is really the largest village of all.
♪♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicking ] ♪♪♪ But this whole area is a national park.
In the last 10 years, I would say, it has become much more popular and people do know more about them.
But back in just 20 years ago, very remote place to get to and very hard to get to.
And there weren't many -- many people who knew about them.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Duran: We leave the coast and head to Siena... ♪♪♪ ...where I'm told the history and architecture is extraordinary and the people are passionate about their heritage.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Look what I've got us.
Oh, wow.
One for you, one for me.
Alright.
Thank you.
Cheers.
Only for -- Hey, cheers.
Only from Siena.
Brenda takes me to the Grand Hotel Continental, where I'll be staying.
♪♪♪ I meet Nathalie, the hotel manager of this incredible old private home, now a five-star boutique hotel.
The Grand Hotel Continental is originally a noble palace.
It was commissioned by the Pope, Alexander VII, who came from the Chigi family.
He requested the building of the palace as a wedding gift for his niece.
She takes me to see the view from the penthouse suite.
And it offers a 360-degrees view.
Oh, yeah.
Wow.
This is beautiful.
What region's out here?
Yeah, we can see all the way towards the county region, where the excellent wines are produced.
And just in front also is the historic seat of the Monte dei Paschi Bank, the oldest bank in Italy.
Wow.
It's literally a 360-degree view, isn't it?
Yeah, because over here, you can look over to the Duomo.
Duran: There's no bad window here.
Yes, on every side, and you even see the Torre del Mangia, which is the big tower standing in Piazza del Campo, where the Palio takes place.
But that is not my room, unfortunately.
♪♪♪ However, she does invite me to a private wine tasting in the hotel's wine cellar.
Jackets are required.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Nathalie introduces me to Danilo, the suave gentleman sporting a tux.
♪♪♪ Let me show you this.
So, this...
So, twice a year they have this race, and it's twice a year because each time only 10 contrade, 10 districts, can participate.
And this is Piazza del Campo.
Piazza del Campo.
200 yards from here.
Just exit the hotel, turn right, and you'll see this.
This is incredible.
They put the sand and -- There are also other photos in the hotel.
If you manage to see the one that you look, the eye of the horse... Uh-huh.
...then you get the essence of Siena, the passion.
♪♪♪ [ Bells tolling ] [ Birds chirping ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ [ Camera shutter clicks ] ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ Duran: The next morning, I find Brenda and we explore the city together.
We head into the heart of the city, and I ask her to tell me more about the Palio di Siena.
It's all of this during the race, during the Palio race or the -- are reflective of the 17 different neighborhoods.
Uh-huh.
And -- Oh my gosh.
I can show you the flags over there.
Okay.
And you will see that each of the 17 different neighborhoods -- Each one is called a contrada.
Okay.
They each have their own flag... Really?
...which is amazing, and they're very proud to wear them.
Oh, wow.
And here, each one -- It's amazing because you can choose.
And, for example, here's the turtle.
The turtle.
And these are the colors of the turtle.
The turtle seems more my style.
Slow and steady.
Yes?
Yeah.
Super slow.
And this piazza, where we are, is called Piazza del Campo.
This is where it all happens.
[ Cheers and applause ] [ Rhythmic drumbeats ] [ Indistinct shouting ] The Palio race, which they have nicknamed it -- The actual Palio takes place twice a year every year...
Okay.
...for hundreds of years.
But they do.
They fill in the exterior, this whole ring around the shell.
They fill it with dirt, and everyone dresses in this pageantry.
They have their own costumes in the same colors, and they will march.
They have a whole parade around this piazza for many hours before the actual race takes place in the evening, which lasts about 90 seconds.
And the contrada really -- It's not just about the horse race, but the whole idea is that you live and breathe with your contrada.
It's part of the Sienese people, and it's their family.
It's their community.
Wow.
And it's really something that everyone is so proud of.
If you ask somebody from Siena what is the most important thing... Mm-hmm.
about their city, it's the life of being a member or a person in the contrada.
[ Rhythmic drumbeats ] Duran: Exploring the city further, I come across a contrada practicing for the race.
[ Drumbeats continue ] ♪♪♪ This is a Tartuca contrada.
Ironically, their mascot is a turtle.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ It is now clear to me that the passion of Italy is on display around every corner.
[ Camera shutter clicking ] ♪♪♪ From the Renaissance in Florence to the spirit of Siena, for me, the yellow roads have woven together Italy's beautiful Tuscany region.
But it has also revealed to me that the yellow roads are not just lines on a map, but the journey itself that opens up a world of wonder and adventure.
♪♪♪ And once again, I hear the road calling.
♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪
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