Hi.

Welcome to the American woodshop.

I'm Scott Phillips.

And today's project is all about door treatment.

Fluted columns, broken arched pediment turn finials.

Well, you just can't beat it and you won't see it anyplace else.

So stay with us.

The American woodshop with Scott Phillips is brought to you by Delta, The Art of Woodworking.

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Okay, now it's time to get busy over at the woodshop and do this beautiful door treatment together out of cherry.

And you know what?

It's an easy project.

You just break it down into little pieces.

Follow me.

Before we get started on the project, make sure that you always read, understand and follow all the instructions that come with the tools and products you use in your workshop.

Work safely.

These are safety glasses.

Now look at this new table saw system.

See how that guard rises and falls with the blade?

Well, that's important because this European style riving knife is going to be where it should to prevent kickbacks.

And there, in the end, a kickback palls as well.

Plus, there's one other feature that I really like.

This split in the top of the guard.

Well, when this guard is locked in place, you can site straight down the split and you can see exactly where the cuts are being made.

Now, over here, the planer.

This is a new type of planer.

It uses dozens of these knives that are bolted on to the head.

And it gives me a cut that is absolutely parallel.

So we'll make some cuts here and playing down all the cherry that I need for this project.

Let me stow these safely out of the way and make those cuts.

That's a turning square we'll need later.

Now, this is a capital work piece.

It's an inch and three quarters thick planed on both sides.

Rough edge here, decent.

Straight edge here.

And what I'm going to do is use the joint there to square it up.

So this edge is square to the two sides.

And then I go to the table saw to rip it down.

The other thing I need a lot of to buy to start.

I join an edge like you can see right here to the two plain sides.

Then I can take it to the table saw and rip it square.

If you go right to the table.

So without joining the edge square to the surfaces, well, it just might not be true when you go to put it all together.

Okay.

I'll work it all down.

All the boards get played and jointed before.

I go to the table.

Solve for this project.

And now this is going to be a test.

When you rip cut cherry, it is the one wood that will burn.

This is an inch in three quarter thick.

I'll turn on the dust collector.

Take a look.

Yeah, I'll let that come to a stop and look at that edge.

Perfect.

That's what a good table saw will do for you.

And I lock that blade in place.

Now I can rip down my two by twos with this push that.

But I do want to get all the wood off of the table saw when I do that.

So I'll just make those two by two cut.

Now, this piece is very important.

It needs to net out ten inches.

What's I rip it be 69 inches low.

It has to be clear, Cherry, because this is the top of the door casing.

The next thing I need to do is cut two column work pieces.

These wrap the inside of the door casing that look like this when they're done with those three fluted grooves.

That's done over at the router table.

But now what I'm going to do is rip these two down to four and 7/8 and make them 75 and three quarters low.

Here you can see a different trim piece.

I need four identical pieces that end up with four flutes in them and these will wrap the front in the back of each of the column.

And that needs to be six and a half wide by 75 and three quarters low.

Trim that down and then we'll use the miter slab to cut the base and capital.

The two but two work pieces for the base.

In the capital trim pieces need to be miter cut.

I have the meter gauge set at a 45 degree angle and I bring that up to my lay outline.

And let me show you the cut, how this all works out.

Shoulder securely to the face of the minor gauge.

Turn it off.

That switches leg activated.

That's really nice.

And now I can flip this over while that power is down.

Bring the other piece up and on.

And here you can see what it looks like it but into that front piece, the front piece is five inches on the inside corners.

And here it's actually six and a half inches in length on the inside quarters on the left and right side.

Now, by flipping the work piece over, I get a complementary cut and then I have the two inside pieces laid out that come to that five inch slide.

Very easy to do.

If you just take your time to make those accurate 45 degree shots.

I'm always trying to figure out ways to make woodworking easier, and you're about to see one great one.

Now, look at this.

This is called a broken arch pediment.

This is a gooseneck style.

Now, I use this right on the center of that inch and three quarter thick cherry.

And this is 69 inches long, nine inches wide.

And if you look right over here, you can see that, well, this has already been cut off.

And what I need to do is flip this around and glue that in place so that then I can continue that arch all the way up in the center.

I'll get a finial.

But let me show you how I made that cut earlier.

This is called a trachsel because true to its name, there's a track that this sole glides on.

It's tied into dust collection.

And you can see the blade plunges down.

But because I have it on top of foam insulation, half inch thickness, it doesn't hit the workbench.

Here's a driving knife behind the blade.

So you get a super smooth cut and this edge right here prevents tear out.

It's supported on the bottom.

So this is a tear free cut.

Here's the proof.

Well, make sure it's clamped on the bottom edge.

Let's make that cut.

Now that it's a perfect tear free cut and I can clamp this and flip this board around and I'm in business.

Look at that cut.

So I'll glue this up, and then I'll show you how to cut out the top with the jigsaw.

It's taken 2 hours for the glue to corral so I can cut these patterns out now.

But the trick is using a five inch long jigsaw blade with a wood cutting tooth on it.

Don't use the short blade because the length of the stroke would jam into this thick wood and it break it and give you a rough cut.

That'd be unsafe, too.

Now, when I make the cut, it's important to hold the base flat to the surface of the wood.

As I make the cut.

And that gives me all the control in the world.

And it's a really good idea to wear a dust mask here and and that, as I say, is that if you look at that arch, the broken arch, that's just perfect right there.

I'll do a little bit more sanding.

This is a new type of sander.

It has a computer chip in it that senses a load.

No brushes, and it chases electrons around a metal ring and that drives the armature.

Well, it's a phenomenal sander with great built in dust collection and Velcro.

I love this tool.

Now look right here.

See how this corner is glued together.

That's not coming apart.

And here's the trick.

Use an excellent wood glue.

Good dollop on the end.

This is end grade.

This is.

And grade growth rings are going this way.

The grain is running this way.

So when I put these two end grain cuts together and rub that glue around and size the joint, that just means working glue into the joint.

I need a little bit more on the top to get squeezed out here and no clamps required for this type of rub joint.

You just want a little bit of squeeze out right there.

And then as far as getting everything lined up, you just keep it flat on a flat surface.

And I'm not worried about glue getting on the workbench.

It's a workbench.

So when it starts to dry, about 20 minutes in, I'll just use a hand scraper to get rid of that.

Now I'll come back, put more hand pressure on that 3 minutes, let that dry.

And that's how we do both the base and the capital for the columns.

Now let's head over to the router table and I'll show you how to float the columns and also profile all the edges using one multi profile bit.

Now turn the router off.

Here and look at this two by two molding.

This was made using a multi profile router bit in a router table.

And essentially what it does, you match the height of the bit to the profile that you want, very versatile bit and this ball bearing is used.

I just use a fence to cut this in.

There is a cove which is a caved.

There's a bead which is a bump that's always on top.

And you can see the router bit behind me, protected by the guard and by moving the fence in and out, you can take lighter cuts, make two cuts to get this profile when you're running the length of the grain to get away from burn free cuts.

But ultimately, if you look down here, you can see the router motor.

It's a three quarter horsepower router, variable speed, and you dial in the speed in this case for cherry, 16,000 rpm with that large bit is the way to go and look at the router table.

These are called feather boards, their fingers that hold this thinner work piece down to the table and against the fence to safely work with thin stock like this.

Now, here's the other thing that I'll do.

I'll take the feather boards off by loosening them, moving them out of the way safely, and bringing up a miter gauge to put in the miter track.

Now it helps to hold the work piece if you put a bit of peel and stick abrasive there that's 100 grit silicon carbide.

And now what I'll do is bring this stock up bottom up again facing me and I'll make two passes, one a cut and then push it against the fence, hold it against the miter gauge, and then make the finishing cut to trim the wrap.

So let me do that.

Turn everything on.

It's always a good idea to wear side shields whenever you out because it can throw chips up even in a router table.

And also when you use a pneumatic nailer where now look at this, see these grooves or the flutes?

That's the bit right there.

Two half inch diameter carbide router bit.

That's up 3/8 of an inch.

And I can make these flutes in one pass.

I have the fence locked in with garden place so that the cut, the first cuts right in the center and then I can just move the fence out incrementally to balance the other flute.

The solid wood is one inch from column to column just for a dimension there.

Now get this on safety gear and good face is down and the feather boards will hold the work piece to the table and I'll use a push block.

Let's get the dust collector on.

And away we go up.

That is a perfectly loaded work piece.

Now, I repeat that for all the fluted columns.

Just move it out for the wider ones and that's the easy way to do it.

Finish the rest of them, then it's on to biscuit ing these together.

I just use a biscuit joiner to make elliptical cuts and I put biscuits in this center work piece.

I may swing it up, flutes up just like that.

Those are five and three quarter inch long blocks.

Swing this around already have glue on it and I line it up so that my marks that I laid out earlier line up.

I like to put a biscuit about every 18 inches and you can put a drop of glue in there if you want to or not.

I've done it both ways and truth be known both work and those blocks.

C This allows for lateral adjustment.

You could tap the biscuits around up to an eighth of an inch to get a perfect fit on the end, make sure the ends are flush.

And those blocks were an idea of a good friend of mine, which really makes glue in this up a breeze.

Now just clamp this up and I form the you channel on all columns exactly the same way.

Once that's done, I glue the carpet on, the base is on and it's on to trimming out the pediment and turning the finial on your.

I've just done a little bit of sanding on the capital and the base treatment.

They're all the same.

You see how that profile wraps all the way around and I want the back profile shoulder to be on the back edge of the column, overhanging about a quarter of an inch to balance it front and back.

The easiest way to join this on to the bottom of the column is just a little bit of glue on center and pocket screws.

This is called a pocket drilling jig.

Now watch what happens here.

I drill this until the bit hit that color.

That's the stop.

Nothing could be easier.

You open that up and that is a pocket.

And if you look down here, you can see there's a pilot hole all the way through.

Now, I put the screw right in there like that and I use a driver, a long extender on the drill and lock the base on there.

But spot of glue on there helps to lock all in place.

The type of glue I like to use is a cyanoacrylate adhesive.

It will help to tack it in place and I want a high quality cyanoacrylate.

Okay, now center that up like so shift it down, balance it left and right and line it up on the center and fascinating place.

This is called an oscillating spindle.

Sander has 100 grit abrasive on it.

And whenever you have a curve that you're trying to sand down, as long as you keep the material moving, this is the best way to sand those curves.

It's a real timesaver and it has a built in dust collection.

Now to other Sanders, this is called a compact belt sander with dust collection.

Watch what this does there.

It really goes to town.

And I remember where I glue those pieces together to make that go away, that glue thing.

And then a little bit of random orbital action at 220 Grit.

And that's the way I like to sand all the parts that I need for this project.

This is called a classic profile router bit with ball bearing guide.

And what I can do with this is bring this down, watch what happens.

And I'll turn it off if I come to a stop before I raise it.

But if you look closely, look at that wonderful profile that that creates.

Okay, that's the accent on the inside curves of the broken arch pediment.

And I'll also use it to profile this trim board that's three inches wide by 38 inches long.

I'm working this from left to right to work with the rotation of the cutter.

Take my time.

Everything's routed and sanded now and I have this piece of two inch wide by 36 inch long top stock.

And this is a piece of milled egg and dart molding that's cut to the same length.

And I let it overhang an inch on each end.

And then to really cap this off, here's that three inch wide board that has that classic profile rooted.

And I stagger that just like that, and that will be tacked in place.

Now, I'll use a nailer to do that, a pneumatic nailer, but boy, you do not want to tack that and then use the Garnet shellac.

You do all the pieces separately and then you tack them in place and glue them.

But look at what happens when we use Garnet Shellac.

And you've seen me use this before.

And why do I use that?

See those burn marks right there?

I leave those as accents that garnet really just blends in and makes it look old and rich.

So I'll get this all shellacked out and I'll put three coats on and I'll use a nylon pad between coats to really make it smooth.

And this is a pound and a half cut.

I have three coats of shellac on all the work pieces and now I'll just nail the trim in place.

So I'm using a Brad Nailer, which is just a fine wire, 18 gauge nail, and it's an inch and 3/8 long and I have it on an air compressor.

I just tack it in in three places.

I do not use glue for this because down the road, if I'd ever need to take it apart and repair it, I can do that.

I just make sure this is butted against the surface or the flat board underneath.

And I'm in business.

And one other thing I want to show you is there are slight indentations where I nail and this is a wax that you just melt in just like that, and you fill those nail holes in there, have all these different colors.

A wonderful way to make it go away.

Just buff that out and it's done.

Now let's head over to the wood lay to turn this beautiful finial turning.

It's so much fun.

Now here's my work piece.

It's squared out grains running a length is three and a half square and seven inches long.

And to turn a finial like this, the accent to the broken arched pediment.

I first start with a pattern that I've drawn and I'll use that to lay in the diameter.

So the key dimensions now the grains running this way, I lock it between the drive spur up here and the live ball bearing center on this end.

And I have the wood lathe set at 350 rpm now I haven't knocked the corners off because I'm going to use a very special tool to do that professionally and safely.

It's called a rough and gouge.

Now at the speed of 350, here's how it goes.

Just easy again.

Hold it to the tool rest.

And in less than a minute, this will be around nice and safe.

Keep your fingers well away from the spinning workspace and safely on the tool wrap.

Next, you can see that it's round now and what I've done the four maximum diameters I've laid in with a pencil and when it's turned on you can go in there and brighten it up.

And those are the diameters that I need to turn down to now and then they look down here, this rough and gouge is the next chisel that I'll use to create the long taper to the inch and a quarter diameter point.

Make light cuts.

Once that's done, I'll use the diamond parting tool to define the deepest cuts that I need to make there for those so straight and on edge and make those nice cuts.

And then I can use the 3/8 inch ball gouge like a cereal bowl and I'll lay that bevel to the wood, roll the handle, and magically the wood just floats away.

That adds detail.

Then to define the beams or the bumps, I'll use a diamond shape tool that's called a beating parting tool, and I can lay in those beads to define it.

And then I just use a quarter inch spindle gouge to add the delicate details.

So that's all there is to turning the finial down.

We made everything at the woodshop.

Now it's time to head to the job site to piece it all together.

The first thing we install is the top jam with the notched ends.

First.

I fit those notches around each side of the wall and then brace it in place from there.

What I do is I simply use the columns that were prebuilt, wrap those around each side of the door opening and then make sure they're plumb.

And I nail those in place with a 15 gauge nailer.

Now, of course, you wear safety glasses, and once that's done, I take the top jam to the top of the columns, and then I place the pediment on the side that I want on the ledge, and I tack that to the wall.

And that's how we end up with beautiful door trim.

Well, this is how all the pieces come together.

You know, if you take a look at this, this is an easy project to do.

Just take it one step at a time.

Turn finial, the broken arch pediment, the egg and dart molding, and this cherry with the shellac makes it look old.

It truly is a classic form.

Well worth accepting any pass through or doorway.

Well, that's it from the American woodshop.

Hope you join us next week for a shaker inspired work table.

God bless you.

The American woodshop with Scott Phillips is brought to you by Delta The Art of Woodworking.

For over 85 years.

Quarter Cable.

The Soul of woodworking for over 100 years.

Wood Craft since 1928.

Providing traditional and modern woodworking tools and supplies to generations of craftsmen.

Wood craft helping.

You make wood work.

Gorilla glue for the toughest jobs on planet Earth.