(child laughing) - [Narrator] There's something that draws us to islands... the romantic notion of our own part of the planet, removed from everyday life, simple, sustaining... separate but not necessarily alone.

These are the world's greatest archipelagos, clusters of islands, each individual, yet sharing common bonds of geography, geology, and genealogy, thrown together on the map, but still in their own little world.

♪ (birds chirping) ♪ (whale sings) ♪ There are few island groups as instantly recognizable as this one, with its bare rocky outcrops, distinctively dressed to impress against the stark backdrop of the Aegean Sea.

The Cyclades Archipelago sits between mainland Greece and Turkey, It draws its name from the circular pattern of the 200 or so islands in the cluster.

In medieval times, the word archipelago was used to refer to the Aegean Sea itself, but over time it became more associated with the many islands that populate these waters.

Today, it's used as a general term for island groups.

The Cyclades are situated at the crossroads of Europe, Asia, and Africa, and have been frequented by people since before the time of Christ.

Throughout history, these shores have enriched miners in search of fine white marble, profited traders carrying wares to and from distant lands, and even helped to make the ill-gotten fortunes of pirates who plied their notorious trade in the surrounding waters, but today, it's tourism that keeps these islands afloat.

Millions come here every year, attracted not only by the sea and sun, but by the archipelago's unique architecture and archeology.

Mykonos is one of the most visited, and the first to be discovered by the international jet set in the 1950s.

It can still stake a claim to be the most upmarket and the most cosmopolitan of the archipelago, even though its one of the smallest inhabited islands, at only 85 square kilometers.

What it lacks in space, it makes up for along its crowded coastline with some of the better beaches in the group.

8Compared to most of the other Cyclades Islands, it sits low to the water.

Its highest point is only 340 meters... but this fact has never stood in the way of the island's lofty goals.

Today, Greece is increasingly moving towards renewable energy to power its modern needs.

But Mykonos has been harnessing the legendary breezes from the Aegean since the 16th century, grinding grain to sell to the passing sea trade between Venice and Asia.

♪ (scooter buzzing) Today, like many of the other islands in this archipelago, Paros is known as a popular tourist destination, but historically, it was famed for one of its natural resources, fine white marble.

The island's capital, Parikia, boasts a 13th century Venetian castle, Which was made, almost entirely, from white marble bricks reclaimed from the ruins of an ancient temple, once dedicated to the Greek god, Apollo.

Life on this timeless island remains simple, And although trade in Paros marble has long since ceased, the port remains its focal point, just as it has for centuries.

Greece is often considered to be the birthplace of civilization, And for lovers of Greek literature, the island of Ios holds a special significance.

These ruins are believed to be the 3,000 year old tomb of the poet Homer, who is credited with writing the epic pieces, "The Odyssey" and "Iliad," which are widely considered to be amongst the greatest stories ever told.

Ios is also blessed with natural wonders.

The one kilometer stretch of sand at Mylopotas is considered to be one of Europe's finest beaches.

The clear water and stunning shoreline attract crowds of young party goers to the island, seemingly at odds with its revered status as a center for religion.

No less than 365 churches have been built here, one for every day of the year, but there is none to rival Amorgos in its dedication to the devout.

Its monastery of Hozoviotissa is a 1,000 year old tribute to the Virgin Mary, built 300 meters above the sea on the island's steepest cliff.

The monastery's precarious site is said to have been determined by the arrival of an unmanned boat carrying a sacred icon of the Virgin Mary, set adrift from Palestine in an attempt to save it from religious persecution.

The building is carved into the rock, and its eight levels house significant works of art and religious relics.

(choir singing in foreign language) But unquestionably, the jewel in the Aegean crown is the much photographed island of Santorini, or Thira as the locals know it.

It's one of the smallest, but most densely populated islands in the group with more than 17,000 people crammed into less than 80 steep square kilometers, but Santorini does crowded in style.

The iconic, white washed sugar cube houses take up every available space on the cliffs around the island... many dug deep into the rock face to take advantage of the cool pumice.

The southernmost island of the Cyclades Archipelago was transformed more than 3,000 years ago by a massive volcanic eruption.

The center of the island sank into the crater which quickly filled with seawater.

Those who survived, moved to the remaining rims, Santorini's black volcanic sand beaches are a lasting reminder of its devastating past, but nature wasn't finished with this island.

A major earthquake destroyed many of the houses in 1956.

They've since been meticulously rebuilt to maintain the fairytale facade that brings more than one million visitors here every summer.

The Cyclades Archipelago is more than just a pretty face or hedonistic destination.

It stands as testament to human triumph over nature, to the old ways, working in with the new, and to a people who have capitalized on their good fortune with climate and coastline, and throughout history, have it made it work in their favor.

♪ There is an archipelago in the north Pacific that is perhaps the world's greatest time capsule... an island group that's captured moments of ancient and natural history and preserved them in a way that keeps them authentic and accessible.

♪ The Caroline Archipelago has the unusual distinction of encompassing two republics, the Federated States of Micronesia and Palau.

There are 500 small islands scattered across the group, stretching 3,500 kilometers from east to west, just north of the equator.

Like much of the Pacific, they have a long history of habitation... but the last 150 years have been particularly turbulent for the islands.

They've been passed from Spanish to German rule, then Japanese to American control before finally achieving independence at the turn of the 1990s.

♪ There's great diversity in language, culture, and terrain throughout the archipelago, but the general feeling is one of a people proud and protective of their heritage.

Pohnpei is in the eastern province of the Federated States of Micronesia.

Its tourism industry is low key in keeping with daily life here.

It has the dubious honor of being one of the wettest places on Earth, receiving around 760 centimeters of rain every year.

Water is celebrated in all its forms on Pohnpei, nowhere more so than around the ancient city of Nan Madol.

It's been called the Venice of the Pacific, a series of canals connecting 92 artificial islands that archeologists believe could be up to 1,300 years old.

It was once a place of palaces and worship.

Its construction was a massive undertaking requiring huge basalt slabs to be lugged across the lagoon on rafts.

Despite the time and effort it took to build the city, it was abandoned in the 17th century, as its people were drawn back to the more fertile mainland.

♪ A little further west, the island state of Chuuk shares similar physical features to Pohnpei, but its history is remembered for very different reasons.

During World War II, Operation Hailstone targeted Japan's main naval base in the Pacific... taking out 270 aircraft and 45 ships stationed in the lagoon.

♪ Evidence of the devastating two day battle is easy to spy from land, but the most comprehensive collection of relics is underwater.

♪ The wrecks rest as deep as 40 meters, and many artifacts remain where they were abandoned more than 70 years ago.

♪ The graveyard for ships has turned into an artificial reef for marine life, an enduring legacy of the fight for the Pacific.

Battle scars from World War II can also be found in the westernmost point of the archipelago.

Like Chuuk, Palau was occupied by the Japanese, and while its wrecks aren't as substantial, they are well preserved.

One cargo vessel still has live depth charges on board.

♪ The republic has a number of standout features that make it naturally attractive.

Palau is famous for its cluster of 250 mushroom shaped formations known as the Rock Islands.

These limestone structures are the ancient remains of coral reefs, pushed out of the sea and sculpted by water over thousands of years.

The area is considered so geologically significant, UNESCO has given it World Heritage status.

The islands sit in an emerald colored lagoon that has a few surprises of its own.

Millions of golden jellyfish are trapped within a lake in the island's interior, spending their days following the sun around the surface, feeding on algae.

There are tiny tunnels to the ocean that keep the water supply fresh but prevent any predators from getting in.

Over time in this protected world, the jellies have lost their ability to sting and pose no threat to the humans who choose to swim with them.

There are so many unexpected finds in the Caroline Islands, pieces of history partly hidden but never forgotten.

The island group is like a giant open-air museum, showcasing aspects of the north Pacific's past while safeguarding them for the future.

♪ They are quite literally at the end of the Earth, the last land between Great Britain and the Arctic, rugged, windswept islands battered by nature, but a beacon for settlers for 7,000 years.

The Shetland Archipelago is the United Kingdom's northernmost outpost, 170 kilometers off the coast of Scotland where the North Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean.

It's made up of close to 100 islands, but its hardy population of 23,000 lives on just 16 of them.

The largest is referred to as the mainland.

Its port of Lerwick is the focal point for the local fishing fleet.

The archipelago has a long association with the ocean, beginning when the first inhabitants followed migrating seabirds to the island group.

♪ The Vikings invaded around 800 AD, bringing their nautical prowess which helped to establish a successful herring industry.

Scotland gained control of the archipelago in the late 1400s, when the Norwegian king gifted them to James III as part of the dowry for his Scandinavian bride.

♪ ♪ By all accounts the early years of Scottish rule were harsh.

Land was seized and slave labor used to build monuments to the monarchy, such as Scalloway castle.

In the early 17th century, it was the summer residence of the oppressive Earl of Shetland.

Now it's one of more than 6,000 sites showcasing the archipelago's extensive human heritage... but it's the natural history that attracts most of the 70,000 visitors to the islands each year.

♪ Up to one million seabirds descend here in summer to mate and feast on a smorgasbord of seafood.

The north Atlantic puffin is the most colorful of the 21 species found in the Shetlands.

The orange in its beak is displayed only during mating, its size, shape, and contour, important elements in attracting a suitable partner.

Once matched, a pair will mate for life, but it's not all happy families.

Over the winter months, the male and female will go their separate ways before rekindling the romance during the next breeding season.

Perhaps this time apart is the secret to the success of their lifelong relationship.

♪ ♪ These islands are also known for their short but sure footed horses.

Shetland ponies originated on these isles several millennia ago, their genetic makeup influenced by the mixing of local horse breeds with those brought by Celtic settlers and Viking invaders as far back as 2000 BC.

Forged by the islands' harsh conditions and limited food, Shetland ponies were once prized as hardy beasts of burden, but are today best known as popular attractions for children.

♪ Summers here can be deceptively mild by Scottish standards.

Winters, however, are wet and wild.

♪ Wind gusts can reach over 100 kilometers per hour, and savage swells smash the coastline, stripping it of vegetation.

♪ ♪ But the islanders wouldn't have it any other way While Atlantic storms can sometimes cut them off from the rest of civilization, they've learnt to make the most of the good days and bunker down during the worst.

The Shetlands stand as one against the onslaught of nature, a uniform island group that's preserved a natural simplicity, embracing the elements, in sync with the sea.

♪ They've been called the pearls of the Pacific, little pieces of perfection flung across a seductive sea to form a lost paradise on Earth.

Officially, this dreamy island group is titled French Polynesia, but it's more commonly known as Tahiti, the name of the main island in a group of 118 stretching more than 2,000 kilometers over the Pacific Ocean.

French Polynesia's reputation as a lost paradise is more than just a romantic notion, It was, in fact, one of the last places on Earth to be discovered.

The first Polynesians arrived in this remote pocket of the world as little as 1,000 years ago.

They landed in the Marquesas, around 1,300 kilometers northeast of Tahiti.

This is the most isolated of the six archipelagos that make up French Polynesia.

Evidence of early island life still exists here.

These large communal meeting places contain wells that were once used to store human sacrifices they believed would guarantee a bountiful crop.

It took another 500 years for Europeans to arrive.

A Spanish shipwreck from the 1500s brought wild horses to the island group.

Their descendants still roam the mountainsides today.

While this discreet archipelago remains largely isolated, the Marquesas have quietly made their mark on the outside world.

It was here that the modern day art of tattooing originated.

Derived from the Tahitian word, tatau, this traditional art form was once used to identify different tribes, to mark significant life events, and to immortalize tribal stories.

Tattoos were adopted by seafaring explorers in the 1700s and taken back to the Western world, from where the art form developed into the worldwide phenomenon we see today.

Unlike most of French Polynesia, this island group has no barrier reefs to protect its shores, but its mountainous terrain provides enough shelter from the wind to keep the coastline calm.

The neighboring Tuamotu Archipelago has never reached the lofty heights of the Marquesas, but these low-lying atolls are the largest chain of islands enclosed by coral in the world, covering an area roughly the size of Western Europe.

The lagoon surrounding the main island of Rangiroa is the second largest on Earth at more than 1,400 square kilometers.

Despite its enviable physical traits, the Tuamotus are far enough away from Tahiti to be largely untarnished by tourism.

As it has done for generations, village life still revolves around the sea and the harvest it brings.

The real treasure of this archipelago lies beneath its pond-like surface.

More than 450 species of tropical fish can be found in the waters here, an eye catching kaleidoscope of color.

Lying to the south west of Tuamotu is the region's most well known group of islands, the Society Archipelago, which is renowned for its clear, calm, waters, and many motus or little islets.

This archipelago is more than just a pretty face.

Tahiti, its largest island, is the administrative center of French Polynesia, and home to 70% of the island group's 280,000 residents.

The relationship with France is a complex one.

This former colony is now semiautonomous, but its education, defense, and justice departments are still run from Europe.

- This is Mora'oa, a small uninhabited atoll 750 miles southwest of Tahiti.

(explosion) - [Narrator] Tensions between the nations were strained in the late 20th century-- - [Reporter] Mounted on a tower in a lagoon, turns the sky white at the moment of detonation.

- [Narrator] As the French carried out a series of controversial nuclear bomb tests in the region, the political and environmental fallout of which remains to this day, but this island paradise is no stranger to violent explosions.

Its volcanic origins are obvious, from Mt.

Orohena, the highest peak in the region, to the black sand that lines its shores.

Across the bay from the capital Papeete, Moorea was also created by an ancient volcano, but the end result was vastly different to Tahiti.

The island has a lagoon encased by a barrier reef, which naturalist Charles Darwin described as a picture within a frame.

Such was the demand to be photographed within this famous setting, the world's first overwater bungalows were built here in the 1960s.

While Moorea may have started the trend, another island in the archipelago has taken the concept to new heights.

The name Bora Bora comes from a Polynesian phrase that means created by the gods, but this paradise on Earth is becoming increasingly crowded.

While the island teeters on the edge of over-exploitation, the tourist dollar helps pay for the conservation of the area.

For the endangered green turtles, the sanctuary on the shores of the lagoon provides a place of refuge while they are rehabilitated for release.

The archipelagos of French Polynesia are a diverse tropical island chain of mountain peaks, low-lying motus, and beaches of black, white, and even pink sand.

It's bound together by history, by culture, and most importantly by its crystal-clear, gem-like waters.

♪ ♪ If ever there was a group of islands destined to be discovered, it would be this one.

Less than 10 kilometers off the Queensland township of Airlie Beach, Australia's tropical playground is in plain sight of the mainland.

We may know them as the Whitsundays, but officially they're the Cumberland Archipelago, a collection of 74 islands named after the brother of King George III, Prince Harry, Duke of Cumberland and Strathearn.

Captain Cook was the first westerner to lay eyes on them during his voyage of exploration in 1770.

He named the body of water around them Whitsundays Passage, after a religious festival which fell on the day of their sighting, but it was the Ngaro Aboriginal people who first inhabited these islands.

They harvested from the surrounding sea, earning a reputation as skilled navigators, and some of their early tools can still be found on the beaches today.

♪ The Whitsunday Islands remained largely undeveloped until the mid 20th century, when in the 1960s, a port was built to open the region's natural wonders to the world.

Today, 700,000 people visit the Whitsundays each year, but this newly developed tropical playground has been limited to just seven islands.

To ensure the tourism industry remains in balance with its pristine surrounds, all islands within the archipelago are classed as national parks, under the protection of the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage area.

Hamilton Island is the hub of the archipelago.

At five square kilometers, it's the largest inhabited island in the group, with a transient population of 1,200 souls, comprised of resort staff, retirees, and sun-loving holiday makers.

These islands are the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef.

Spanning over 2,300 kilometers along Australia's northeastern coastline, this natural wonder is the world's largest living organism, which in turn, supports a stunning array of marine life.

The archipelago's close proximity to the mainland means that dangerous marine stingers, like the lethal box jellyfish, which drift on coastal currents, can be a problem in the summer months.

But not all aquatic visitors are considered pests.

Migrating humpback whales favor the calm conditions of these waters to mate and calve each year between July and September.

Their presence is celebrated by locals, and wide-eyed travelers alike.

The archipelago's namesake, Whitsunday Island, plays host to another of the region's natural wonders.

Whitehaven consistently rates as one of the top 10 beaches in the world.

The seven kilometer stretch of silica sand is amongst the purest on the planet.

Ocean currents are thought to have deposited the silica here over millions of years.

This exceptionally fine natural element is rumored to have been further refined to create one of mankind's crowning achievements of the 20th century, the crystal clear glass of the Hubble telescope.

Regardless of whether or not that's true, local authorities are committed to protecting this pristine environment.

In recent years, the natural heritage of the Whitsunday Islands, and neighboring Great Barrier Reef, has come under threat from international mining interests in the region... but to date, grassroot opposition has managed hold off the advances of corporations, by applying political pressure to local governments.

Amongst the development of recent years, there are still large areas of the Cumberland Islands that have retained their natural beauty... little pockets that still feel as if they need to be discovered, close to the coast, but a world away from the mainland.

♪ When an archipelago is home to more than 100 million people, yet its beaches still rank amongst the best in the world, it's a pretty good indication there must be something special about it.

The Philippines is made up of more than 7,000 islands, but only a small number of them are big enough to live on.

The island nation sits 800 kilometers off the coast of Vietnam, part of Southeast Asia, yet noticeably different from the mainland.

It's adopted elements of its neighbors' cultures, but the biggest influences have come from further afield.

Americans brought Western customs and the English language in the first half of the 20th century.

But it was the Spanish that introduced Christianity to the region during their 300-year rule.

The Philippines is one of the only countries in Southeast Asia to be predominantly Catholic, and its religious festivals are celebrated with great gusto.

The archipelago observes the world's longest Christmas season, beginning at the start of September and extending well into January... but old traditions are still clung to as well.

In the mountain region of Sagada on the northern island of Luzon, the dead are placed in hanging coffins, suspended from cliffs in difficult to reach places.

This ancient practice was designed to leave the deceased undisturbed and closer to the spirit world.

The decorated timber coffins are small, and the corpse has to be curled into a fetal position to fit inside.

Today, only the elderly adhere to this tradition, which is gradually being replaced by church burials.

Much of the old is disappearing in the Philippines, including its forest, which has been reduced by more than half in the past 50 years as a result of mining and logging.

Less than a quarter of the archipelago is now covered in trees, which is hardly surprising, considering the demand for resources with its move towards modernization.

The capital, Manila, is one of the most densely populated cities in the world, with more than 71,000 people per square kilometer.

Filipinos who can afford to, chose to live in crowded urban centers with access to far better facilities than the poorer, rural areas.

A quarter of the population still lives in poverty... but the islands have an abundance of natural riches.

Tourism is an important contributor to the archipelago's economy.

Almost two million tourists a year pack the shoreline on the tiny island of Boracay, wanting to experience the four kilometer stretch of soft sand known as White Beach, voted the best in the world... but the tourism industry is beginning to take its toll as Boracay struggles to cope with the environmental impact of the invading masses.

Other parts of the archipelago have been more proactive in their approach to preserving their natural features.

The island of Palawan has created a marine sanctuary around its towering limestone islets which are estimated to be up to 250 million years old.

It's thought they were once part of a massive cave system which collapsed and filled with water.

Resorts are few and far between around here, and those that have been built are designed to not hinder nature.

The Philippines is an anomaly amongst archipelagos.

Unlike most island groups, it does big and crowded in a major way.

Even beyond the urban centers, there are so many people vying for a place to relax, but travel far enough, and there are still snatches of serenity, moments of magic, timeless and natural.

♪ (child laughing) When an island group can combine its natural friendliness with soft sandy beaches, endless coral, and a laidback lifestyle, then it's certainly deserving of its world-class reputation.

♪ There are more than 330 islands in the Fijian Archipelago... a mix of mountainous, forested, and rocky terrain... created by ancient volcanoes and encircled by extensive reef systems.

Today, these islands are widely viewed as a slice of heaven on Earth, just as famous for the welcoming nature of their people, as their pristine tropical surrounds, but this hasn't always been the case.

♪ The archipelago was once referred to as the Cannibal Isles due to the widespread ritualistic consumption of human flesh.

The tradition started when the first seafarers were forced to consume their dead to survive the long voyage across the Pacific.

So intrinsic was it to the journey that it became entrenched in the culture, the spoils of battle for the victors in village wars.

Cannibalism only came to an end with the arrival of Christian missionaries to the islands in the early years of the 20th century.

(children laughing) ♪ Today, traditional rituals are more relaxed.

Kava ceremonies are commonly held in conjunction with social and religious functions, villagers drinking the plant based mixture for its spiritual and sedative properties.

Although bitter and pungent, it's surely more tasteful than the consumption of human flesh.

Only one third of Fiji's islands are inhabited.

Small-scale agriculture has long been a staple of the local economy.

Many families rely on subsistence farming to survive, combining traditional elements with modern ways.

Although basic buildings have largely replaced thatched huts, tribal culture is still integral to village life, but while more than half of Fiji's population of 900,000 identify as Melanesian, almost 40% are of Indian descent... their ancestors arriving as labor for the sugar industry under British rule in the late 19th century.

In recent times, these demographics have polarized the region.

Resentment between the indigenous people and the more prosperous Indian population has led to a series of coups, a new constitution, and finally democratic elections in 2014.

As the nation stabilizes, Fiji's number one industry is getting back on track, and visitor numbers are edging towards the one million mark per annum.

Tourism is largely centered around the archipelago's coastlines, with travelers drawn to the sprawling postcard perfect beaches that define its shores.

But it's what lies beneath these tropical waters that truly sets this island chain apart.

Fiji is known as the soft coral capital of the world, boasting 10,000 square kilometers of reef systems scattered throughout the archipelago.

More than 1,200 species of fish have been identified here and almost 400 types of coral, making this region of the Pacific a biological hotspot.

The Great Astrolabe Reef around the island of Kadavu in the country's south is renowned for its color and quantity of marine life.

♪ Diving is big business in Fiji and more than 200 marine parks have been set up to protect its underwater assets.

Steps are also being taken to ensure one of the archipelagos most prized icons has a healthy future.

Like humans, turtles are no longer on the menu, and these vulnerable reptiles are being helped to adulthood at sanctuaries around the archipelago.

There's a fascination with Fiji that extends far beyond its physical beauty.

It's a place where family comes first, traditions are cherished, time is fluid, and the welcome is warm and genuine.

♪ These collections of islands, these fragments of land, scattered across their own patch of ocean, we are drawn to the world's greatest archipelagos by their people, their past, and their perfect position.

They're like pieces of a puzzle.

Each one is different, but all of them are needed to complete the picture.

♪