Epic Trails
Backpacking Lake Powell, Utah
Season 3 Episode 302 | 23m 2sVideo has Closed Captions
Eric Hanson treks the canyons and waters of Lake Powell, Utah, on foot and via pack raft
Eric Hanson treks the canyons and waters of Lake Powell, Utah, on foot and via pack raft
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Epic Trails
Backpacking Lake Powell, Utah
Season 3 Episode 302 | 23m 2sVideo has Closed Captions
Eric Hanson treks the canyons and waters of Lake Powell, Utah, on foot and via pack raft
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship- [Eric] Indistinguishable trail, check.
unparalleled beauty, double check.
This week on Epic Trails, we're exploring some of the most remote terrain on the planet right here in Utah.
(upbeat music) So Jesse and I set off from the trail head and immediately we're met with a slot canyon.
Right here, I think this is the actual point of no return.
We physically can't fit through some of these canyon spaces.
- Pretty tight squeeze.
Definitely the worst we've seen so far.
- Yikes.
- From here to the lake edge might be precarious.
Oh my god.
- Grab the boat.
- [Eric] I'm Eric Hanson.
When I see a trail, I see more than a path from point A to point B.
(upbeat music) A good trail is the ultimate opportunity to explore, to discover new landscapes and to challenge myself.
When I don't have a pack on my back, I'm thinking about my next big adventure because my mission is simple.
My mission is to discover the world's most epic trails.
Funding for Epic Trails is provided by Discover the World.
Collette offers small group explorations tours, destinations and local experiences designed especially for small groups.
Explorations by Collette guided travels since 1918.
The Alinker three wheeled walking bike.
Assisting people with an active mindset to regain mobility and access the outdoors.
Keeping users active and engaged in life.
More information at Alinker.com In4Adventure.com Inspiring, educating and encouraging outdoor adventure and by these additional sponsors.
(upbeat music) Utah is home to five national parks and seven national monuments, but there is so much more than these attention grabbing places.
Lake Powell, one of the nation's largest reservoirs, has been undergoing massive changes.
So I decided to organize a trip to explore these canyons that are reemerging as the reservoir dries up.
I'm currently en route to the Escalante area of Utah, meeting up with an old buddy of mine, a friend from Flagstaff, and together we're gonna go on a hiking, backpacking and pack rafting trip on Lake Powell.
The lake is at historically low levels, so we're taking this opportunity to go hike through some canyons and we're gonna go use these incredible tools known as pack rafts to explore some of the crazy remote terrain and see what we can find.
(upbeat music continues) Accessing our mission is the name of the game.
Simply getting to the canyon is a challenge.
With 50 miles of rugged off highway driving, we are leaving civilization behind to explore the last area in the lower 48 to be mapped.
(upbeat music continues) Ooh, look at that baby.
So I got here just in time.
Literally as soon as I got the van parked and leveled and everything was set up, the sun was going down.
We got a little pop of color out here.
I think it's gonna be a little bit of a cold blustery night.
So I'm thankful for the fire and I'm ready for Jesse to get here because as soon as he gets here, it's time to make some burgers and eating good while camping out here in a place like this.
There is nothing better than that.
You had good time.
- Yeah, I mean the road was good.
So Eric called me up and said he had a canyon adventure in mind and was looking for somebody to go.
And I always know when Eric has an idea that it's gonna be a fun time.
I also knew that it meant we'd be getting into an unknown number of obstacles and potentially really difficult conditions.
So I said, "Sign me up."
- [Eric] It's been a while since I've seen Jesse.
It's been a couple years now.
We used to share an office space and be kind of in the freelance photography world together.
It's just really good to see an old buddy of mine and to be out on a proper adventure together.
It's adventure day.
We're about to set off for four days of backpacking and paddling through some incredibly challenging terrain.
So it's really important that we do our final gear checks before we descend into the point of no return.
Jesse and I have actually been pack rafting once before.
I learned something very important on that trip.
I was like, I'm gonna save some weight and space by only taking one part of my paddle.
I was behind like I think I finished like two hours after everybody else because I had to go to the side of the canyon, pack up and hike it.
- I did the same.
I hiked with you for a while, Eric, but the reason was for me, not only did I have half a paddle, I was also paddling an inflatable yellow duck.
I'm really happy to have a proper boat this time.
It makes a huge difference.
(bright music) - Jesse's tailing behind me.
We're setting up a shuttle right now, so we're gonna leave my baby where we're gonna finish and I think we're in for a good one out here.
All right, Jesse, it's time.
- Oh yeah.
- Time to carry monster packs.
- Right down in there, huh?
- Yeah, I think it literally starts slotting up like pretty close to right off the bat.
Ready?
- Let's do it.
- Let's do it.
(upbeat music) So Jesse and I set off from the trail head and immediately we're met with a slot canyon.
The canyon here wastes no time getting serious and we have to be ready to commit, you know?
'Cause once we start making some of the drops, there's really no getting outta the canyon until we can get around to the other exit point.
Woo-hoo.
- [Jesse] What do you see?
- Right here, I think this is the actual point of no return.
- It looks like a sizable drop there.
- [Eric] It is just slow, slow going.
We physically can't fit through some of these canyon spaces without getting our bags off of our bags and lowering them down our, these tiny little chimneys with the rope that we brought.
And it is just frustrating, slow, painful at times, but we are also just having a blast doing it.
- All right, onto the next one.
- Which is right there.
(both laugh) - [Jesse] It pretty soon got so tight that you almost couldn't walk straight.
It was like you wanted to turn sideways.
I've been in plenty of tight and narrow canyons before.
What was different about this one was the size of our packs just added a whole lot of weight, a whole lot of bulk that really made everything way more difficult than what I was expecting.
- [Eric] It is just extremely challenging terrain to move through here.
It's four points of contact and then some.
We're just scraping our way all through this canyon.
It's really slow going, but super photogenic and super beautiful.
I'm having a great time.
(upbeat music continues) Hello?
I think we might be done.
- That's the end of the narrows, already.
- Good job, dude.
So then we, we come through and we're thinking, well, based on timing, that might've been the whole canyon.
So we're feeling good.
We're feeling in good spirits.
Like, okay, we did this.
- It's getting tight again.
- Oh man, I guess we're gonna lose more material off our packs after all.
- [Jesse] Of course, only a few minutes later, the walls constricted on us again.
We're back into another stretch of narrows that proved so much longer, so much tighter and with way more vertical drops than the first.
- [Eric] And this is the actual canyon that's the big one.
The one that everybody worries about because it could be containing water.
It's much more committing much bigger drops and for a much longer duration of time.
Jesse, you think we're gonna have to do pack off side shuffle?
- I think so.
- [Eric] Oh geez.
- [Jesse] We're all still feeling pretty good.
We're in high enough spirits, but we realize that we're really running low on light.
And if this canyon does go on much further, we could actually be in some trouble.
And no place really to camp.
We're getting low on water.
- [Eric] What are you seeing?
- It's pretty tall, pretty tight squeeze.
Definitely the worst we've seen so far.
- Yikes.
- So this one's bad enough but it gets worse.
- I'm definitely starting to get a little concerned about how slow we're going and just the nature of the canyon.
You know, it's taking so much time and effort getting through.
Just gotta keep moving.
- [Jesse] Probably the toughest part of the whole narrows is this one vertical drop that's not even as wide as our backpacks are really.
We have to actually take things off of and out of our packs to make them smaller and make a row out of the three of us to pass the gear over our heads and then down a slot.
- That's hard man.
- [Eric] That was really hard.
Woo-hoo.
Yeah.
Woo.
Oh, I see what you're saying about that slide.
(laughs) Woo.
Oh, that was a mission.
Good job, Jesse.
Good job, Max.
(upbeat music) Gloriously.
Finally, at last, the canyon eases up on us.
- [Jesse] We emerge into a wider part of the canyon.
We can see wide dry sand.
- Ooh, I love it.
Woo-Hoo.
- Dude.
I think we're finally outta the narrows.
Oh my god.
That was like, it felt like it was never ending.
Just look at it from here.
It looks as torturous as it was.
- [Eric] So we filled up water from a little depression in the canyon, and then we go on and do our best to find camp.
It's dark at this point.
We have to throw on headlamps and start hiking in the dark.
Finally, at last we decide we're calling it, we set up camp for the night.
(upbeat music fades) (bright music) - [Jesse] So by now we've already seen that we can expect a lot of difficulty from this canyon.
The second day, we're no longer in the narrows, but we are in just insane brush.
We're just constantly pushing sticks aside, taking 'em to the face, stepping in holes, and tripping over ourselves.
(Jesse laughing) Only a little wet.
- [Eric] There's no trail whatsoever.
Every step is a mission.
It is tough, tough sledding out here.
Could be a lot worse.
Could be pricker bushes.
- Ooh, that's interesting.
(upbeat music) Then we get to this point in the canyon with a double drop waterfall below us, we decided to kind of take the best of not so good options no matter what, and lower our packs down a somewhat sketchy sandstone cliff (upbeat music continues) - [Eric] So despite the challenges, there is some serious upside to being out here.
As we continue hiking, the canyon walls just keep getting higher and higher overhead.
It feels like you're shrinking down into the recesses of the most gorgeous canyon country you could ever ask for.
The soaring walls are so impressive the way that the light just bounces around in these canyons.
It feels like we're in a place where just very few humans go.
- [Jesse] So we're walking through this really sinuous, beautiful canyon with high walls overhead.
It is starting to get a little late in the day.
Our feet are tired, our packs are feeling extra heavy.
But then all of a sudden I come around one bend and I look ahead of me and I see just the perfect big, overhung cave in the side of the canyon.
And I knew for sure this is the spot.
This is gonna be a really nice place to spend the night.
(upbeat music fades) (bright music) - [Eric] As we get ready.
I know that today's gonna be a fun day.
This is like kind of like the payoff day of all of our hard work, fighting our way through this canyon.
It's all about today's adventure.
- You really do get the sense like this just emptied of water.
- Yeah.
- Like it rushed through here and was gone.
- Yeah, this probably receded within, I'm saying probably the last six months.
(bright music continues) So we just came around the bend and we can officially see Lake Powell and there is a lot of tree old trees mud and it doesn't look very nice right here.
So from here to the lake edge might be precarious 'cause, look what we got.
That we're gonna have to fight through with all of our gear.
Ooh boy.
(upbeat music) Jesse does propose the idea that we inflate everything on the firm sand and then we shuttle everything together.
Oh, that's jell-oy.
Oh Man.
(Jesse laughs) - [Jesse] Oh God.
- [Eric] Don't stop.
Don't stop.
Keep moving.
Well that actually, that went pretty good.
Every step that we take is taking its toll on the quicksand.
We've gotta get in the boats and get in that water before it all turns to loose stool.
(laughs) (upbeat music continues) Jesse hustles into his boat and I kind of help him.
Here you go, Good buddy.
I'm next and it doesn't go well.
Whoa, geez.
So it was actually a fairly scary moment.
There is some flowing water there and I'm feeling it flow around me.
Oh my God.
- You good, Eric?
- Yeah, that got me.
Thankfully it does relent and I'm able to pull my legs out and finally get onto the boat and get on the water where it's safe.
Woo.
Okay.
Good luck, Max.
Woo.
This is what we brought all this down here to do.
(uplifting music) (peaceful music) As soon as we're on the water, it feels like we're now cheating, because we are moving effortlessly.
It just feels like a dream.
I prefer this method of exploring the canyon over hiking with 80 pounds on my back.
- [Jesse] This is the moment been looking forward to for days now, can just sit back in the boat and watch the walls go by floating around each bend.
- [Eric] The reflections coming off of everything are incredible.
It is beautiful.
And Jesse and I are feeling great.
Hello!
(bird call) Woo-hoo!
So this whole expedition has kind of been about getting to one place in particular, and I really haven't mentioned it, because I've wanted to keep it a little bit more of an exciting reveal.
But right around the corner is a possible natural feature that hasn't been seen in the last 40 or 50 years, and only with the receding lake levels can anybody see it.
- [Jesse] A couple more bends in this side canyon, and sure enough, I see it right there, this massive arch just spanning the water.
- [Eric] This just feels like such a cool experience to be back here kind of on expedition.
You never know what you're gonna find.
And to see this masterpiece right here, we get to paddle through it.
- You ready?
- Paddle through.
- [Jesse] All right.
What?
- This is wild.
Oh my goodness.
This feels like a really ephemeral moment in time because even six months ago, nobody could paddle under it.
And it's also possible that in another six months the water will be so low that no one will be able to paddle through it at all.
So to be able to paddle through it here at this window of time that's so narrow, it feels like a true honor.
- It's really just mind blowing.
And I can't believe that something like this was just hiding beneath the lake water for so many years.
- [Eric] I mean, honestly, top five coolest things I've ever seen and experienced in the outdoors.
Paddling through the arch is kind of like the grand finale of our pack rafting portion of the trip because literally just around another two bends and we are done.
The canyon light at the bottom is fading quick.
So Jesse and I spot this cool little beach that looks like it's about 60 feet above the bottom of the canyon.
And so we set up camp in this incredible alcove at this big 180 degree bend in the canyon, and it is just a remarkable place to camp for our third and final night on the adventure.
(crickets chirping) Oh, you snuck up on me.
Good morning.
(upbeat music) - [Jesse] Now, of course, the last day of the trip is kind of a bittersweet treat.
I have just enjoyed every moment and now it's about to be over.
But at the same time, I am tired.
You know, my legs and my shoulders and everything just feels worn out.
We are a bit lucky with this canyon being less brushy and more of a defined trail.
- [Eric] It's feeling like everything is going in our favor as we're making our way through our final day here in the canyon.
There's like less bush whacking.
There's less challenges.
- [Jesse] Tourist photo go stand by the waterfall, honey.
- [Eric] At one point in the trail, Jesse and I met our spirit guide.
- [Jesse] We were just fascinated by this owl that kept taking off from a perch in the rocks, flying around the next bend.
- [Eric] We were following the owl, we were following the owl, and all of a sudden it flies overhead and it was so cool.
We got a glimpse of the white face, but I didn't realize that what it meant was that we were actually walking up a dead end.
Well, we've encountered a slight problem, about 20 feet tall.
We had come across a big massive that had fallen into the canyon and had totally blocked the path.
Jesse and I have to backtrack and go back down the canyon before we can find an exit to get out of the canyon and then go overland.
Hopefully finding our way back to the van.
(upbeat music) No matter how many times it happens on every backpacking trip, you know you love it.
You have an amazing trip, but seeing your vehicle at the end of a hard day is such a relief.
Yeah, buddy.
(upbeat music) Woohoo!
There she is.
Oh, we made it.
Is there no finer sight?
- [Jesse] As always, when I leave this place, I'm really gonna miss it.
As tough as this trip was, I got to see some truly incredible things that I feel really lucky to experience.
Was amazing every step of the way.
- Got it.
Woohoo, got it.
Honestly, this was such a special trip for me, and this is a really special episode of "Epic Trails", because it's a place that I love and connect with in an intimate way.
The canyons of Utah and Northern Arizona are just some of my favorite places on the planet.
This one hits home for me.
I'm feeling very grateful.
(upbeat music continues) (uplifting music) Funding for Epic Trails is provided by Discover the World.
Collette offers small group explorations tours, destinations and local experiences designed especially for small groups.
Explorations by Collette guided travels since 1918.
The Alinker three wheeled walking bike.
Assisting people with an active mindset to regain mobility and access the outdoors.
Keeping users active and engaged in life.
More information at Alinker.com In4Adventure.com Inspiring, educating and encouraging outdoor adventure and by these additional sponsors.

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