RMPBS Retro: How The West Was Camped
Black Canyon of the Gunnison
9/14/2026 | 8m 18sVideo has Closed Captions
Two friends and their families set out to explore and camp at Colorado's top outdoor locations.
This episode contrasts the park's status as one of America's younger national parks with its rocks, which are among the oldest on Earth (roughly 1.7 billion years old)
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RMPBS Retro: How The West Was Camped is a local public television program presented by RMPBS
RMPBS Retro: How The West Was Camped
Black Canyon of the Gunnison
9/14/2026 | 8m 18sVideo has Closed Captions
This episode contrasts the park's status as one of America's younger national parks with its rocks, which are among the oldest on Earth (roughly 1.7 billion years old)
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Where to Watch RMPBS Retro: How The West Was Camped
RMPBS Retro: How The West Was Camped is available to stream on pbs.org and the PBS app.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorshipHi Colorado.
Welcome to how the West was camped.
On this episode, we're going to take you to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.
One summer, two friends set out with their families to camp at some of Colorado's premier outdoor destinations.
This is their story.
You know, it's ironic.
The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is one of America's youngest national parks.
But when you come here, you're going to get to see some of the oldest rock formations on the face of the earth.
Now, I have to tell you, with all of that history staring back at me, I feel a little small.
But when I remember that it came here with my friends and family, I don't feel insignificant.
I feel fortunate to be able to play and camp here in Colorado.
Located in western Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is divided into two sections a North and South rim because you can make reservations there.
We camped at the more developed South Rim Access.
The camping here was set on three paved loops, two of which were primitive with no hookups, and a central loop which did have electricity for those who don't like to rough it too much.
The sites were nestled in a maze like grove of scrubby gamble oaks, although the smaller trees might not yield that much shade.
They do provide privacy and seclusion, giving the area a relaxing atmosphere for everyone who stays here.
The campsites vary greatly in size, fitting both tents and RVs.
They even had a few pull through sites, although these seem more like curbside parking to me.
My suggestion is to reserve your site on the interior of a loop to get more space.
One thing to know is that all fresh drinking water must be trucked in, and you are asked to use it sparingly, so fill your RV before you arrive.
Each loop has its own pit toilet, and I have to say they were some of the cutest I've ever seen.
All they were missing were some shutters and a flower box, but alas, they were still just outhouses and although clean, they received a mid-range odor reader rating of Toms feet.
Yeah, the best thing about camping here is that you are literally walking distance from some great views of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.
These cliffs are truly impressive, with some parts of the chasm being over a half mile deep.
The Gunnison River plunges about 43ft per mile in the park, which is about seven times more gradient than the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon.
The best way for families to view the canyon from above is to take the seven miles South Rim Drive, and hike the many beautiful overlooks.
The easiest way to get to the bottom of the canyon is to head down the 16% grade road to the East portal section of the park.
Here you can see the 100 year old Gunnison Diversion Tunnel, a hand dug aquifer that transports water over five miles underground to a canal that irrigates the nearby, agriculturally rich Uncompahgre Valley.
Besides some breathtaking views, the East portal offers spectacular fishing opportunities.
This section of the Gunnison has a gold medal rating, and although I saw plenty of beautiful rainbow and brown trout, my reputation as an angler must have preceded me because the larger, smarter fish knew it'd be wise just to stay clear of my line.
But with scenery like this, who could complain?
The Black Canyon can be much more than a pretty picture to those who enjoy it.
Solitude.
Park ranger and author Paul Zenger explains how its ancient rocks can impact our modern lives.
By coming to Black Canyon, we see time in a different dimension and in different perspective.
The rocks and cliffs of this canyon are very aged, and it gives us a chance to put that clock into perspective.
It allows us to regroup, to experience life in a different way, to come up close to nature.
We are more than being in front of computer screens and in front of our electronic gadgets.
We are actually live human beings, and coming to national parks like Black Canyon gives us an opportunity to find our own humanity once more, to find and see our families, friends and neighbors in a new way, and to reach out to the members of our communities.
And by that, with our own humanity, we can build bigger and better lives.
We were lucky enough on our trip to take the Moral Point Boat tour of the Gunnison River in the neighboring Cure Contai recreational area.
Now you have to climb down 232 steps and make a three quarter mile hike to get to the boat launch.
But man, it's worth the effort.
Having been all over Colorado, it sometimes takes a lot for me to say wow anymore.
But I said it plenty of times on this hour and a half excursion.
This section of the canyon was once one of the world's most scenic railways, but now it's covered with hundreds of feet of water.
I'm extremely grateful that we can still access this area's beauty by a different mode of transportation.
Our guide, Ranger Curt, not only educated us about the history and geology of the area, he informed us about the crucial need for water conservation in the West.
There were plenty of photo opportunities as Captain Orville brought the boat near such famous landmarks as the Kira Conti Needle, which was once used as the logo for the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad.
We also experienced the enchanting and awe inspiring Chipita Falls.
Our families thoroughly enjoyed this tour and I'm sure yours will too.
It was the perfect way to end a magical camping trip.
Hey Tom daily here.
My tip for this episode is to use your camera phone to keep a picture diary of your favorite campsites.
Just take shots of the sites that you like and catalog them on your computer to use the next time you make online camping reservations.
Well, we've come to the part of the show where Tom and I put our years of experience to work for you and give you our super scientific rating for camping at the Black Canyon National Park.
Using our scale from 1 to 4, we give this trip three and a half marshmallows.
Let's find out why.
The campground at the Black Canyon had some real nice sites with lots of solitude and seclusion.
There were some that were a little more exposed, but the campground was not crowded, so you should be able to find one that you like.
The canyon itself provides some of the most uplifting overlooks in Colorado, with access that ranges from easy to extreme.
There's plenty of activities and history to explore in the park.
Had the fish been more cooperative, I would have given this trip four marshmallows and our families absolutely love the Moral Point Boat Tour.
It's a unique and leisurely way to see the beauty that Colorado has to offer.
Well, that concludes another episode of How the West was camped.
We really suggest that you put the Black Canyon National Park on your list of places to visit in Colorado.
If you love the outdoors.
Don't miss.
Ken Burns new film, The National Parks America's Best Idea, coming in September to Rocky Mountain PBS.
And from Scott's family in mine.
Stay safe and happy trails.


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