♪ Jim: THE LUSH, GREEN, ROLLING HILLS AND VALLEYS OF THE OZARK MOUNTAINS IN ARKANSAS MAKE UP THE ONLY MAJOR CHAIN OF MOUNTAINS BETWEEN THE APPALACHIANS AND THE ROCKIES.

THIS BEAUTIFUL AREA IS FAMOUS FOR ITS RIVERS, SPRINGS, LAKES AND CAVES.

HELLO, I'M JIM WELCH AT THE EDGE OF SHELTER CAVE IN THE OZARK NATIONAL FOREST... BLANCHARD SPRINGS, ONE OF THE AREAS RUN BY THE U.S. FOREST SERVICE.

RUDY MANCKE, OUR NATURALIST IS GOING TO LEAD US ON ANOTHER GREAT EXPEDITION HERE.

I THINK WE'RE GOING TO HAVE A LOT OF FUN TODAY LOOKING AT WHAT MAKES THE OZARKS SO SPECIAL.

IT'S ALMOST A MAGICAL PLACE.

IT'S A COMBINATION OF ROCKS AND WATER-- THAT'S AN INTERESTING COMBINATION ANYWHERE-- AND THEN, OF COURSE PLANTS AND ANIMALS THAT ARE DRAWN TO THIS PLACE.

SOME VERY STRANGE THINGS, SOME VERY UNUSUAL THINGS AND, JIM, I'VE GOT A FEW SURPRISES FOR YOU COMING UP, I HOPE, AS WE TAKE A LOOK AT THE OZARKS.

THIS BLANCHARD SPRINGS AREA IS VERY EXCITING AND THE ROCK THAT IS BEHIND US HERE NOW IS A SANDSTONEY MATERIAL THAT PROBABLY WAS LIFTED OUT OF OLD OCEAN SO THERE ARE MANY, MANY INTERESTING STORIES HERE.

AND OF COURSE THIS PLACE THAT WE'RE STANDING GIVES US A LITTLE TINY BIT OF SHELTER FROM THE RAIN-- IF IT WERE RAINING ON A DAY LIKE TODAY-- AND I IMAGINE EARLY MAN IN ARKANSAS FOUND SHELTER HERE, TOO.

NOW, LOOK AT THIS, TOO.

HERE'S A CAVE AND IT'S KIND OF DARK IN THE BACK.

LOOK AT THIS SECTION OVER HERE BECAUSE YOU SEE A LOT OF GREEN PLANTS COMING INTO THAT DARKENED AREA AND DOING WELL AND THAT LETS US KNOW THAT WHEN THE SUN IS JUST RIGHT THERE IS SUN BATHING THOSE PLANTS FOR A SHORT TIME DURING THE DAY.

WE HOPE TO GET A CHANCE TO SEE A REALLY DEEP CAVE OR A CAVERN A LITTLE BIT LATER.

AND YOU'RE NOT GOING TO SEE THOSE GREEN PLANTS THERE.

THEY NEED SUNLIGHT BECAUSE THEY TRAP THAT ENERGY FROM THE SUNLIGHT, OF COURSE AND MAKE THEIR OWN FOOD.

I SEE ONE OTHER PLANT RIGHT OVER HERE NEXT TO IT THAT LETS US KNOW THAT IT'S A LITTLE MOIST HERE.

SEE THE PLANT WITH THE WHITE FLOWERS SORT OF LOOPING UP AND OVER?

THOSE FLOWERS LOOK A LITTLE LIKE A LIZARD'S TAIL AND SO THE COMMON NAME FOR THAT PLANT IS LIZARD TAIL.

RUDY, WHAT'S THE GREEN PLANTS AT THE BORDER OF THE GRASS HERE?

THAT'S ANOTHER ONE THAT REALLY LIKES MOISTURE.

COMMON NAME IS JEWELWEED.

IT'S ONE OF THE IMPATIENS-- VERY INTERESTING PLANT AND REALLY NEEDS A LOT OF MOISTURE TO STAY STIFF.

IT WILTS VERY QUICKLY WHEN THERE'S NOT A LOT OF MOISTURE AVAILABLE.

AND BORDERS OPEN AREAS LIKE THIS?

YEAH, LOVES PLACES JUST LIKE THIS.

AND, AGAIN, BLUFFS LIKE THIS HAVE A TENDENCY TO GET SOME WATER STAYING CLOSE TO THEM A GOOD BIT AND THAT MAKES IT A LITTLE MORE MOIST.

NOW, AS WE COME INTO AN OPEN AREA TAKE A LOOK RIGHT DOWN HERE.

DO YOU SEE THE BIRD JUST COMING OUT ON THE SIDE THERE?

OH, WHAT KIND IS THAT?

THEY JUST CUT THE GRASS.

THAT'S ONE OF THE BROWN THRASHERS RIGHT ON THE EDGE.

LOOKS LIKE HE'S DIGGING AROUND A LITTLE BIT WITH HIS BEAK TRYING TO GET A MORNING MEAL.

SEE THE MARKINGS ON THE BREAST?

AND THEN IN THE DISTANCE... LOOK AT THAT.

FORAGING FOR FOOD.

LOOK AT THE RABBIT OUT THERE.

YEAH, YOU CAN SEE IT NIBBLING ON THAT RECENTLY CUT GRASS GETTING A GOOD MEAL FROM IT.

AGAIN, BOTH OF THOSE ANIMALS, NOW DEPEND REALLY ON PLANTS FOR THEIR SURVIVAL, DIRECTLY OR INDIRECTLY.

RUDY, WHAT IS THE TREE WITH THE STRANGE FRUIT HANGING DOWN?

OKAY, THAT IS ONE-- REAL FRILLY LEAVES ON IT-- ONE CALLED HONEY LOCUST AND PEOPLE FOR YEARS HAVE TAKEN THAT FRUIT ONCE IT'S RIPENED AND EATEN THE HONEY-LIKE MATERIAL BETWEEN THE SEEDS.

SO, AGAIN, THAT PLANT IS PROVIDING FOOD FOR ANIMALS.

INTERESTING ONE DOING WELL RIGHT OVER THERE.

AND THEN, THE OTHER PLANT THAT DOES SO WELL IT'S DOMINANT HERE IT LOOKS LIKE ONE OF THE TREES BOX ELDER IS THE NAME-- ONE OF THE MAPLES-- AND I SEE IT OVER HERE AND REALLY IT'S BEEN ALL AROUND US.

ANOTHER TREE THAT I SEE DOING SO WELL OVER THERE IS BLACK WALNUT.

THERE'S ONE THAT ACTUALLY IS CLIMBING ABOVE EVERYTHING ELSE.

THE FRUIT, OF COURSE, HAS BEEN EATEN BY PEOPLE AND OTHER ANIMALS AND THE WOOD HAS BEEN HEAVILY USED, TOO.

GREAT DIVERSITY OF TREES HERE IN THE NATIONAL FOREST.

AND GREAT VARIETY OF ANIMALS.

LOOK AT THAT LITTLE GUY.

MORNING'S A GOOD TIME TO SEE ANIMALS.

OH, YEAH, SO MUCH ACTIVITY BEFORE IT GETS TOO HOT.

HANG ON TO THIS A MINUTE AND LET'S TAKE A LOOK AT A TURTLE THAT IS REALLY WELL MADE TO LIVE AWAY FROM WATER.

AND THIS ONE'S CALLED USUALLY THE THREE-TOED BOX TURTLE.

RUDY, IT'S GOT ORANGE ON THE BEAK.

COULD HE BITE YOU?

A BIT REDDISH ON THE FRONT END.

WELL, THESE THINGS RARELY BITE BUT THEY DO HAVE THAT POTENTIAL.

OF COURSE, THEY DON'T HAVE TEETH TO BITE WITH BUT A PROJECTION ON THE SKULL AND THE LOWER JAW THAT CAUSES SOME TROUBLE IF THEY PINCH YOU.

IS "BEAK" PROPER TERMINOLOGY?

OH, THAT WOULD BE GOOD, I SUPPOSE.

ONE OF THE REPTILES-- YOU CAN SEE THE SCALES THERE.

YOU CAN SEE THE, UH... FINGERNAILS THAT TELL YOU IT'S A REPTILE.

DRY SKIN, CAN MOVE WAY AWAY FROM WATER AND, OF COURSE, AS PROTECTION-- AND THIS ONE DOESN'T LOOK TOO FRIGHTENED-- TO PROTECT ITSELF FROM PREDATORS THIS ANIMAL CAME UP A LONG TIME AGO WITH A HINGE, YOU SEE THAT RUNS ACROSS THE SHELL RIGHT HERE.

AND THAT ALLOWS THE TURTLE-- IF IT'S NOT TOO LARGE-- TO PULL IN ITS FOUR LEGS AND TAIL AND HEAD AND CLOSE UP LIKE A BOX.

IN MOST OF THE EASTERN UNITED STATES THERE IS THE EASTERN BOX TURTLE BUT HERE IN ARKANSAS IT'S A DIFFERENT RACE OR SUBSPECIES CALLED THE THREE- TOED BOX TURTLE.

NOT MANY MARKINGS ON THE TOP OF THE SHELL.

THE EASTERN RACE HAS A LOT OF YELLOW OR ORANGE MARKINGS ON THE SHELL.

THIS ONE REALLY DOESN'T HAVE MANY MARKINGS AT ALL.

AND THEN ON THE HIND LEGS YOU SEE THREE TOES OR CLAWS.

A COUPLE OF OTHER VARIETIES THAT HAVE THAT, TOO BUT HERE IN ARKANSAS THE SPECIES WOULD BE THE THREE-TOED BOX TURTLE.

WHAT DOES A TURTLE EAT, RUDY?

YOU CAN IMAGINE SOMETHING THIS SLOW CANNOT BE A GOURMET SO IT FEEDS ON WHATEVER IS THERE-- PLANT OR ANIMAL MATERIAL AND, AGAIN, OUT EARLY.

THAT'S TYPICAL OF MANY OF THE REPTILES ESPECIALLY ON HOT DAYS IN THE SUMMER.

IT'S A NICE AREA FOR HIM TO LIVE.

YEAH, IT'S INTERESTING.

THIS IS AN AMAZING PLACE, AND I THINK AS WE GO TODAY WE'RE GOING TO SEE MORE AND MORE DIVERSITY HERE.

THAT'S WHAT MAKES THIS NATIONAL FOREST SO SPECIAL.

AND NOW THAT WE'RE BACK A LITTLE WAYS WHY DON'T WE JUST TURN AROUND AND TAKE A LOOK... OH, MY GOODNESS.

ISN'T THAT BEAUTIFUL?

OH, MY GOODNESS.

SANDSTONE BLUFF-- PRETTY HARD ROCK.

WE SAW THAT A STREAM CAN ERODE IT AWAY A LITTLE BIT BUT FAIRLY SOLID MATERIAL MADE OUT OF SAND GRAINS THAT ARE NATURALLY CEMENTED TOGETHER.

AND LOOK AT THE TOP NOW.

THE VEGETATION UP THERE IS DIFFERENT FROM WHAT WAS DOWN HERE.

IT'S DRIER UP THERE ON TOP OF THAT SAND, NOT SO WET.

MM-HMM... THINNER SOIL.

SHORT-LEAF PINE OVER THERE ON THE RIGHT.

LOOK AT THAT.

THAT'S THE STATE TREE OF ARKANSAS DOING VERY WELL ON THOSE DRY BLUFFS.

AND THEN I THINK THERE'S SOME CEDARS NEXT TO IT ALSO.

THEY DO WELL WHERE THE SOIL IS RATHER POOR AND THERE'S NOT A LOT OF SOIL TO LIVE ON.

SO IT'S AN AMAZING DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE BLUFFS AND THE BOTTOM OF THE BLUFF.

AND I THINK TODAY THAT'S REALLY WHAT WE'RE GOING TO BE ABLE TO SEE.

WE'RE GOING TO SEE A LOT OF STRANGE THINGS-- STRANGE THINGS THAT ARE FAIRLY CLOSE TOGETHER AND YET SO DIFFERENT.

SANDSTONE IS ONE OF THE SEDIMENTARY ROCKS.

WE'RE GOING TO GO UP THE MOUNTAIN NOW AND TAKE A LOOK AT ANOTHER TYPE OF SEDIMENTARY ROCK KNOWN AS LIMESTONE.

AND WATER DOES SOME AMAZING THINGS TO LIMESTONE.

SO WHY DON'T WE HEAD UP THERE AND SEE WHAT'S GOING ON?

OKAY.

WE'VE COME UP THE HILL NOW FROM THAT SOLID SANDSTONE THAT WE WERE LOOKING AT EARLIER AND WE'RE REALLY STANDING ON SOME FAIRLY THICK LIMESTONE THAT'S REALLY BEEN MODIFIED BY WATER-- WATER THAT'S ACTIVE UNDER OUR FEET.

THE FOREST SERVICE HAS BUILT THIS PLACE TO GIVE US A VIEW OF THAT UNDERGROUND AREA AND I DON'T THINK I'M GOING TO NEED MY NET.

WHY DON'T WE JUST LEAVE THAT AND GET IT ON THE WAY OUT?

( water trickling, dripping quietly ) Rudy: NATURE IS REALLY DOING SOME MARVELOUS THINGS RIGHT BENEATH OUR FEET, ISN'T SHE?

THIS IS THE CATHEDRAL ROOM OF BLANCHARD SPRINGS CAVERN AND THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL IN NORTH AMERICA.

AND YOU SEE WHAT'S AT WORK HERE: WATER DISSOLVING MINERALS OUT OF LIMESTONE AND THEN REDEPOSITING THEM AS CALCITE CRYSTALS AND IN THIS INSTANCE LIKE DRAPES, DRAPERIES OR CURTAINS HERE.

WHAT A MASSIVE AMOUNT OF CALCITE AND WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT HOW THAT HAPPENS AS WE GO ALONG THE TRAIL.

AND THEN LOOK OVER THIS WAY, JIM AT THE GREAT DIVERSITY OF COLORS AND SHAPES.

AND WE WANT TO TALK ABOUT HOW THOSE THINGS FORM AS WE WALK ALONG.

AN AMAZING PLACE AND, OF COURSE, A PLACE THAT'S USUALLY EXTREMELY DARK EXCEPT THAT WE'VE BROUGHT LIGHTS IN WITH US.

WE'RE CREATURES OF THE LIGHT.

WE DON'T DO VERY WELL IN THIS DARKNESS.

AND LISTEN TO THE WATER DRIPPING ALL AROUND US.

WATER AND LIMESTONE MAKE SPECIAL PLACES LIKE THIS.

LET'S HEAD ON DOWN THE TRAIL.

MM-HMM.

( voices murmuring in distance as water drips ) THIS IS DRIPSTONE TRAIL AND I SUPPOSE THAT WOULD BE A GOOD NAME FOR ALL OF THESE FORMATIONS HERE-- DRIPSTONE.

WATER DRIPPING INTO THE CAVE AND YOU CAN HEAR IT.

AND LOOK AT THAT FLOWSTONE THERE WHERE IT'S COMING IN IN A PRETTY GOOD AMOUNT.

AND THEN IT ALSO FORMS THESE LITTLE RIMS AND CATCHES A LITTLE BIT OF WATER AND RIMSTONE IS THE COMMON NAME FOR THAT FORMATION.

WATER NOT REALLY LOADED WITH LIVING THINGS AS YOU CAN SEE.

THERE ARE A FEW SALAMANDERS THAT DO WELL, THOUGH, IN THE WATER HERE AND CRAYFISH AND OTHER THINGS.

Jim: THE FORMATIONS TAKE ON SUCH BEAUTY IN HERE.

YEAH, IT IS AMAZING AND IT'S ALMOST UNBELIEVABLE TO THINK THAT THIS WHOLE SPACE WAS AT ONE TIME FILLED WITH WATER THAT HAD DISSOLVED AWAY THE LIMESTONE.

THIS CAVE HAS THREE LEVELS NOW.

AND THIS IS ONE WHERE THE WATER HAS DRAINED AWAY LEAVING A SPACE.

AND THEN SLOWLY BUT SURELY NEW WATER DRIPPING IN DISSOLVING LIMESTONE AND BRINGING IN CALCIUM CARBONATE-- THE CALCITE WE WERE TALKING ABOUT A MOMENT AGO-- HAS FORMED ALL OF THESE THINGS.

THESE LARGE THINGS COMING UP FROM THE FLOOR OF THE CAVERN, STALAGMITES THAT ARE CAUSED BASICALLY BY WATER WITH CALCIUM CARBONATE IN IT OOZING IN FROM THE TOP IN CRACKS IN THE TOP FALLING DOWN AND THEN BASICALLY DEPOSITING THE CALCITE CRYSTALS HERE WHICH BUILD UP YEAR AFTER YEAR AFTER YEAR SLOWLY BUT SURELY...

MILLIONS AND MILLIONS OF YEARS.

YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT EXTREMELY LONG PERIODS OF TIME, YES.

THERE ARE ONE OF THOSE SALAMANDERS NOW THAT WE WERE TALKING ABOUT-- THE OZARK BLIND SALAMANDER-- VERY SMALL, YOUNG ONE DOING A LITTLE MOVING.

BOY, IT'S RARE TO SEE, THOUGH LIVING THINGS IN CAVERNS AND CAVES, ISN'T IT?

WE WERE TALKING ABOUT STALAGMITES WITH A "G" COMING UP FROM THE FLOOR A MOMENT AGO OR FROM THE GROUND.

THEY'RE ALSO STALACTITES WITH A "C" THAT COME DOWN FROM THE CEILING.

SEE THE FISSURES IN THE CEILING.

AND MATERIAL BEGINNING TO BE DEPOSITED COMING DOWN FROM THE TOP.

EVERY NOW AND THEN, THOSE TWO GET TOGETHER AND FORM WHAT WE'RE LOOKING AT WHICH IS USUALLY REFERRED TO AS A COLUMN.

MAGNIFICENT-- CALCITE CRYSTALS LAID DOWN OVER AN EXTREMELY LONG PERIOD OF TIME.

AND WHENEVER YOU LOOK AT THAT I THINK IT'S NICE TO REALIZE THAT MAN HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS.

THIS IS NATURE'S HANDIWORK AND IT IS AMAZING THAT THIS IS PROBABLY UNDER OUR FEET OFTEN IN THE OZARKS.

WE DON'T USUALLY GET A CHANCE TO SEE IT SO BEAUTIFULLY AS WE SEE IT HERE.

EXACTLY, NATURE'S ART AND "BEAUTIFUL" IS AN APT WORD.

AND ALL IT IS IS CALCITE IN WATER COMING FROM THE LIMESTONE ABOVE AND SLOWLY FORMING THIS DRIPSTONE ALL OVER THIS SPACE.

LET'S JUST HEAD ON DOWN THE TRAIL.

THERE'S MORE INTERESTING THINGS, I'M SURE RIGHT AROUND THE BEND.

GETTING KIND OF CHILLY IN HERE.

AFTER 95 AND 100 OUTSIDE, AND 58 DEGREES... 58 DEGREES IN HERE.

CONSTANT, CONSTANTLY.

ISN'T THAT AMAZING?

AND OF COURSE, THAT'S PERFECT CONDITIONS FOR THESE KINDS OF THINGS TO FORM WITH A LITTLE BIT OF SEEPAGE AND THOSE STALAGMITES ARE DOING WELL.

TEMPTING, THOUGH, TO TOUCH THEM, ISN'T IT?

MAKES YOU WANT TO.

BUT THAT WOULD HURT IT, ONE TOUCH?

YES, IT WOULD, ESPECIALLY IF A LOT OF PEOPLE TOUCHED THE SAME ONE OVER AND OVER AGAIN.

EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK, THOUGH THERE'S SOMETHING INTERESTING TO SEE.

LOOK AT THE COLOR UP THERE.

WHAT CAUSES ALL THOSE COLORS?

WELL, MAINLY THE WHITE NOW IS PURE CALCITE, CALCIUM CARBONATE.

THE BROWNISH OR YELLOWISH MATERIAL IS AN IRON OXIDE STAIN.

AND THEN THE BLUISH MATERIAL THAT YOU CAN SEE SOMETIMES IS MANGANESE DIOXIDE THAT STAINS IT A BLUE OR SOMETIMES EVEN A BLACK.

SOMETIMES ONE WOULD IMAGINE THE CAVES WOULD BE ALL GRAY BUT THERE ARE MANY, MANY COLORS.

LOTS OF COLORS HERE, AND AS WE SAY LOTS OF DIFFERENT FORMS OF DRIPSTONE.

Rudy: THIS PLACE DOESN'T LOOK VERY FRAGILE BUT REALLY, IN MANY WAYS CAVERNS LIKE THIS ARE VERY FRAGILE INDEED.

WE'VE TALKED ABOUT HOW HUMAN HANDS CAN CHANGE THINGS BUT IT'S VERY FRAGILE IN THE SENSE THAT WATER HAS TO BE FLOWING THROUGH HERE WITH CALCIUM CARBONATE DISSOLVED IN IT TO KEEP THESE THINGS GROWING.

THIS IS AN AREA THAT'S JUST FILLED WITH EARLY STALACTITES USUALLY CALLED SODA STRAWS.

AND LOOK AT THEM, THEY'RE HOLLOW AND ONE DROP OF WATER EASES DOWN LEAVES A LITTLE BIT OF CALCIUM CARBONATE BEHIND MAYBE DROPPING TO THE FLOOR TO START A STALAGMITE.

BUT YOU SEE JUST NUMBERS OF THEM HERE.

AND FINALLY THOSE LITTLE TUBES GET PLUGGED UP AND THEN THE WATER BEGINS TO FLOW AROUND THE OUTSIDE AND YOU GET THE LARGER STALACTITES THAT WE SEE ON THE CEILING.

AGAIN, RUDY, THERE ARE SEVERAL DIFFERENT COLORS HERE.

YEAH, AND THAT, AS WE'VE EXPLAINED, YOU KNOW, IS... REALLY HAS A LOT TO DO WITH MINERALS IN WITH THE CALCIUM CARBONATE.

YOU SEE SOME COLUMNS IN THERE, TOO THAT ARE RATHER INTERESTING AND SOME OF THAT MATERIAL ALMOST LOOKS LIKE IT'S BEING, YOU KNOW, REDISSOLVED AND INSTEAD OF ADDED TO, BEING A... HAVING A LITTLE MATERIAL TAKEN AWAY.

THAT KIND OF FLEXIBILITY IN A CAVE TELLS US THAT THIS CAVE IS LIVING.

OF COURSE, WATER IS BRINGING IN THINGS AND CHANGING IT ALL THE TIME.

BUT IT'S LIVING IN ANOTHER WAY, TOO.

THERE ARE LOTS OF ANIMALS THAT COME INTO THIS CAVE THAT WE HAVE NOT SEEN TODAY.

WE SAW THE SMALL THINGS THAT SPEND ALL OF THEIR LIFE HERE.

BUT WHAT ARE SOME ANIMALS THAT MIGHT COME IN?

YOU THINK OF CAVES, YOU THINK OF BATS.

ABSOLUTELY, AND BATS COME IN FROM THE OUTSIDE AFTER GOING OUT WHERE THERE'S LOTS OF PLANTS AND ANIMAL LIFE BRING SOME OF THAT MATERIAL BACK IN THEIR DROPPINGS GO TO THE BOTTOM-- USUALLY REFERRED TO AS GUANO-- AND SUPPORT A MYRIAD OF LIFE-FORMS IN CAVES THAT REALLY WOULDN'T BE HERE WITHOUT THOSE BATS AND OTHER THINGS THAT COME IN.

SO THE OUTSIDE GETS IN, YOU SEE THROUGH THE BODIES OF BATS AND OTHER ANIMALS.

OF COURSE, MAN DIDN'T COME HERE UNTIL 1963 IN TERMS OF THE FIRST DOCUMENTED LOOK IN THE DISCOVERY OF THIS AREA AND INDIAN WAS HERE A THOUSAND YEARS AGO.

THEY FOUND BONES IN ONE OF THE SIDE CAVES HERE.

I GUESS IT'S ALWAYS AMAZING-- WE STAY ON THE SURFACE OF THE EARTH SO OFTEN IT IS FUN EVERY NOW AND THEN TO GET DOWN UNDERNEATH AND TO SEE WHAT NATURE DOES BELOW OUR FEET.

WELL, AS WILLARD HADLEY TRIED TO GET IN THROUGH THE ENTRANCE AT THE SPRINGS SHALL WE TAKE A LOOK AT THAT NOW?

YEAH, LET'S GO DOWN THAT WAY.

Rudy: THIS IS A TOTALLY DIFFERENT FEELING NOW, ISN'T IT?

IT'S A WONDERFUL, DELICIOUS FEELING, VERY COOL.

WELL, IT'S GOOD TO BE BACK IN THE LIGHT AND YOU NOTICE HOW LIGHT REALLY CHANGES THINGS.

OF COURSE, THESE ARE BLANCHARD SPRINGS NAMED AFTER JOHN BLANCHARD WHO HOMESTEADED HERE AFTER THE CIVIL WAR.

YEAH, AND JIM, DO YOU SEE THE DIFFERENCE LIGHT MAKES?

ALL THE GREEN PLANTS ALL OF A SUDDEN IN THE WATER.

DIDN'T SEE ANY BACK IN THE CAVE.

LIGHT REALLY DOES CHANGE THE WORLD.

AND NOT ONLY WITH PLANTS.

HOLD THIS NET A MINUTE, JIM.

COME OVER HERE A SECOND.

LITTLE SNAKE DOWN HERE.

LET ME JUST SEE IF I CAN EASE UP ON HIM AND GRAB HIM.

NONPOISONOUS, I HOPE.

OH, YEAH.

YOU GOT A GOOD HOLD ON HIM?

THERE'S NO PROBLEM WITH THIS ONE, JIM.

ONE OF THOSE VARIETIES NOW THAT WHEN MOST PEOPLE WOULD SEE THEM DOWN HERE WOULD THINK IT'S POISONOUS BUT THIS IS REALLY NOT A POISONOUS SNAKE AT ALL.

RUDY, ONE OF THE MAIN CLUES WOULD BE THE ROUND EYE THAT IT'S NONPOISONOUS.

ROUND PUPIL IN THE EYE CERTAINLY LETS US KNOW THAT IT'S NOT A WATER MOCCASIN AS SOME PEOPLE CALL THE POISONOUS SNAKE THAT LIVES IN THE WATER.

AND SURELY IT'S NOT A COPPERHEAD EITHER BECAUSE THEY REALLY DON'T SWIM IN STREAMS LIKE THIS.

AND YOU GET A LITTLE FURTHER BACK DOWN ON THE BODY YOU REALLY BEGIN TO NOTICE NOW THAT IT'S NOT A COPPERHEAD BECAUSE IT HAS BLOTCHES RIGHT DOWN THE CENTER OF THE BODY AND ALMOST RECTANGLES DOWN THE SIDES OF THE BODY.

DO YOU SEE THOSE?

MM-HMM.

AND THOSE RECTANGLES ARE NOT VERY WIDE.

THE SPACE BETWEEN THE RECTANGLES IS MUCH WIDER THAN THE RECTANGLES THEMSELVES AND THAT LETS US KNOW THAT THIS ONE IS A MIDLAND WATER SNAKE.

AND ALSO THE BELLY ON THIS SNAKE IS KIND OF INTERESTING BECAUSE IT USUALLY HAS TWO LITTLE... TWO LINES OF MARKINGS ON THE BOTTOM AND THAT'S VERY TYPICAL OF THIS MIDLAND WATER SNAKE FOUND HERE IN ARKANSAS AND ELSEWHERE.

IT'S A RELATIVE OF ANOTHER NONPOISONOUS ONE THE NORTHERN WATER SNAKE.

LESS THAN TWO FEET LONG.

WOULD IT GET MUCH BIGGER?

THIS THING GETS A GOOD DEAL LARGER THAN THIS AND IT FEEDS ON FROGS AND TOADS AND SMALL FISH THAT LIVE IN THIS WATER.

BUT IT IS ONE OF THE NONPOISONOUS SNAKES.

DOES THE SNAKE SPEND MUCH TIME DRY?

YEAH, THEY REALLY HAVE TO BE DRY AT TIMES BECAUSE A FUNGUS INFECTION WILL BUILD UP IF THEY DON'T GET DRY EVERY NOW AND THEN.

THESE DO A LOT OF SUNNING ON ROCKS ALONG THIS STREAM, I'M SURE.

AND I'LL JUST PUT IT DOWN RIGHT HERE IN FRONT AND SEE WHAT... WHAT HAPPENS.

OH!

WATER SNAKE HAS FOUND A SAFE HAVEN.

I'M SURE HE'S GLAD TO BE RID OF US.

HERE'S A LITTLE BUTTERFLY NOW.

IT'S CALLED THE EASTERN TAILED BLUE THAT HAS COME TO MY FINGER TO GET SOME OF THE MOISTURE THAT THE SNAKE LEFT BEHIND.

TAILS ON THE HIND WING, BLUE ON THE BACK.

AND LOOK AT HIM RUB THOSE HIND WINGS TOGETHER, JIM.

IS THAT THE ONE WE SEE AROUND THE STREAM A GOOD BIT?

THAT'S THE ONE THAT IS COMMONLY COMING HERE TO GET A DRINK OF WATER AND ALSO MINERALS FROM THE WATER.

OF COURSE, THIS IS TRUE IN ALL BUTTERFLIES.

IT DOESN'T GET ANY LARGER THAN THIS.

THIS IS THE ADULT.

THAT THING LOOKS LIKE IT'S GOING TO SIT THERE FOREVER.

LOOK AT THAT...

I'LL SEE IF I CAN EASE IT OFF.

THERE WE GO.

VERY, VERY DELICATE.

YOU NOTICE THE WAY LIFE HAS EXPLODED AS SOON AS WE COME OUT OF THE DARKNESS OF THE CAVE.

MOST LIFE AS WE KNOW IT IS TIED TO LIGHT, ISN'T IT?

AND THE SUN.

OH, YEAH, YEAH... AND LOOK AT ALL THE PLANTS HERE NOW.

WE SAID IT AS WE CAME OUT.

ALL OF THE ALGAE ON THE ROCKS MOSSES SITTING ON THE TOPS OF THE ROCKS HERE.

AND HERE ARE A GROUP OF ANIMALS ALL AT OUR FEET ALL ALONG THE ROCKS: THE SNAILS.

WE DIDN'T SEE SNAILS IN THE WATER IN THE CAVE, DID WE?

PLENTY OF NICE WATER.

WHY WEREN'T THEY IN THERE?

ABSENCE OF THE SUN, AGAIN.

WELL, IT'S NOT THE SUNLIGHT THAT'S MISSING THAT'S REALLY CAUSING THE PROBLEM DIRECTLY.

IT'S THERE'S NO FOOD FOR THEM AND THE REASON THERE'S NO FOOD IS BECAUSE THERE'S NO SUNLIGHT.

AND THERE THEY ARE ALL OVER THE ROCK, SCRAPING OFF THE ALGAE.

THERE'S A TRAIL UP HERE WE NEED TO GO DOWN AND LOOK AT SOME MORE OF THIS VARIETY OF LIFE RIGHT AT THE MOUTH OF THE CAVE HERE.

FOREST SERVICE HAS DONE A NICE JOB OF MAKING THIS AVAILABLE TO PEOPLE, HAVEN'T THEY?

IT'S WONDERFUL.

THEY HAVE HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF VISITORS EACH YEAR.

LOOK OVER HERE.

LOOK ON THE LEDGE ACROSS THE CREEK.

SEE RIGHT OVER THERE?

THE BIRD.

YES-- EASTERN PHOEBE, COMING TO THE NEST, GOING AWAY RAPIDLY BUILDING ITS NEST RIGHT IN THE LITTLE AREA ON THE SANDSTONE THERE.

PROBABLY BE BACK IN A MINUTE.

IT'S AN INSECT EATER, ONE OF THE FLYCATCHERS GETTING A MEAL AND THEN FLYING BACK FEEDING THE YOUNG JUST FOR A SECOND, AND THEN GONE.

WOW!

AND THEY LOVE TO NEST AT OPENINGS INTO CAVES AND ALONG LEDGES LIKE THIS.

LOOK AT ALL THE PLANTS AGAIN HERE NOW.

THE WHITE RIGHT IN FRONT OF US HERE... MM-HMM?

MOUNTAIN HYDRANGEA OR WILD HYDRANGEA.

LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS OF WHITE FLOWERS.

AND YOU SEE THE BEETLE THERE JUST WORKING HIS WAY THROUGH.

ONE OF THE APPROPRIATELY NAMED BEETLES-- IT'S CALLED A FLOWER BEETLE.

THE TREE THAT'S COMING UP BESIDE US HERE NOW WITH THE KIND OF SCALY-LOOKING BARK, LARGE LEAVES IS ONE THAT DOES WELL ALONG STREAMS: SYCAMORE-- CLIMBING UP, DOING NICELY.

AND I SEE ONE OTHER ONE THAT'S A LITTLE SURPRISING HERE IN THE OZARKS.

IT'S A VERMONT TREE.

SUGAR MAPLE DOWN THERE.

FROM NEW ENGLAND, YEAH.

DOING VERY WELL IN THIS NORTHERN-FEELING AREA OF THE UNITED STATES.

THERE'S JUST SO MUCH TO SEE HERE AND RIGHT NEXT TO THAT, THE PAWPAW LEAVES ANOTHER PLANT THAT DOES WELL AS AN UNDERSTORY TREE HERE.

WHENEVER I SEE MOVING WATER LIKE THIS I ALWAYS LOOK FOR THE BLACK-WING DAMSELFLY.

SEE IT SITTING ON THE LEAF THERE?

OH, SURE.

SHINY, METALLIC BODY-- THAT'S THE MALE-- SOLID BLACK WINGS.

FEMALE WOULD HAVE WHITE LITTLE DOTS ON THE EDGES OF THE WINGS.

AND THEY LAY EGGS IN THIS RUSHING WATER, BELIEVE IT OR NOT.

IT'S STILL NICE AND COOL IN THE SHADE, ISN'T IT?

IT'S A BEAUTIFUL VALLEY IN THAT IT'S SO LUSH AND GREEN.

LOTS OF INTERESTING THINGS THE DIVERSITY WE'VE ALREADY BEEN TALKING ABOUT TODAY.

HERE'S ONE MORE TREE OF MOIST AREAS IN THE OZARKS: WITCH HAZEL.

OH, YEAH.

WITCH HAZEL OVER HERE.

AND YOU CAN EVEN SEE ON THIS ONE A GALL OR TWO.

SEE THOSE LITTLE CONELIKE PROJECTIONS COMING OUT OF A COUPLE OF THE LEAVES?

AND THOSE ARE GALLS THAT ARE CAUSED BY A LITTLE APHID THAT'S ACTUALLY GETTING FREE ROOM AND BOARD FROM THAT WITCH HAZEL LEAF.

ONE OF THE PLANTS, YOU KNOW USED AS AN ASTRINGENT FOR A LONG TIME.

RIGHT ON THE EDGE OF THE STREAM.

VERY COMMON IN THIS AREA, YEAH.

AND IN THE TREE NOW THAT'S OVERHANGING OR THAT'S RIGHT ON THE SIDE WITH BRANCHES OVERHANGING IT'S ONE THAT YOU CAN CALL AMERICAN HORNBEAM OR ANOTHER NAME IS IRONWOOD.

AND YOU SEE THE FRUIT HANGING DOWN ON IT?

RIGHT AT THE TIPS OF THE BRANCHES-- LOTS OF FRUIT.

AND THE SEEDS HAVE THOSE LITTLE BRACTS OR WINGS ATTACHED TO THEM TO HELP IT BE BLOWN BY THE WIND OR OF COURSE TRANSMITTED IN THE STREAM IF IT FALLS IN THE STREAM.

AND THEN, JIM, LOOK OVER THERE ON THE LEDGE-- THE HORSEMINT FLOWERING-- SEE IT OVER THERE?

OH, YES.

AREN'T THOSE GORGEOUS?

USUALLY INSECTS AND OTHER NECTAR FEEDERS WOULD COME TO THAT, BUT I DON'T SEE MUCH ACTIVITY.

AND YET THAT IS SUCH A BEAUTIFUL PLANT RIGHT ON THE LEDGE THERE.

MMM.

LOTS AND LOTS OF INTERESTING THINGS TO SEE HERE.

AND OF COURSE THE MAGIC THING THAT MAKES IT ALL POSSIBLE: WATER RUSHING AWAY FROM US THERE IN THE DISTANCE.

BEAUTIFUL, CLEAR RUNNING WATER THAT ATTRACTED SETTLERS HERE IN THE MID-1800s.

YEAH, THIS OZARKS AREA OF THE UNITED STATES IS SPECIAL, ISN'T IT?

I MEAN, THIS HAS BEEN A GOOD DAY.

WE'VE REALLY SEEN THE SURFACE OF THE EARTH AND ALSO UNDERNEATH.

YOU REMEMBER THAT SANDSTONE OUTCROP WHERE WE STARTED WITH DRY TOP AND PRETTY LUSH BOTTOMLAND AREA-- GREAT DIVERSITY OF PLANTS.

AND THEN WE MOVED ABOVE THE SANDSTONE WHICH IS SO HARD, SO SOLID INTO THAT THICK LIMESTONE LAYER THAT HAD BEEN RIDDLED, OF COURSE, WITH THE CAVERNS.

I DON'T KNOW HOW YOU FELT BUT I FELT LIKE IT WAS UNREAL THERE FOR A WHILE AND YET IT WAS...

IT WAS A RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE.

OH, IT WAS A PHENOMENAL PLACE UNDERGROUND.

AND WE SAW HOW VERY LITTLE LIFE CAN DO WELL IN THERE.

AND THEN WE COME OUT AT BLANCHARD SPRINGS CAVERNS AND SEE ALL OF THAT LUSHNESS OF THE OZARKS AGAIN.

IT'S BEEN A GOOD TRIP TODAY.

EASY TO UNDERSTAND WHY HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS WANT TO COME VISIT.

OH, YEAH, WHAT A SPECIAL PLACE.

WE ENCOURAGE YOU TO COME AND SEE THESE PLACES FOR YOURSELF.

WE CAN SHOW THEM TO YOU BUT YOU REALLY HAVE TO COME AND EXPERIENCE THEM ON YOUR OWN.

PLEASE JOIN US AGAIN NEXT TIME ON NATURE SCENE.

[Captioning sponsored by THE U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION Captioned by The Caption Center WGBH Educational Foundation]