- Sai Sankoh started designing clothes just two years ago.

At the time she was working as a nurse, and ran a fashion blog on the side.

In November, 2018, she decided to launch her online store, and try her luck of selling her own designs.

Sankoh specializes in luxurious resort wear, influenced by her travels, which began at a young age.

Today, we are honored to meet Sai and uncover her secrets for clothing coordination today on "Fit 2 Stitch".

(upbeat music) - [Narrator] "Fit 2 Stitch" is made possible by Kai Scissors, (upbeat music) Bennos Buttons, OC Sewing, Orange County, Vogue Fabrics, Pendleton, Imitation of Life, and Clutch Nails.

- I just first wanna say thank you from all of us who are gonna learn so much from you.

Your generosity to share what you've learned, and what you've been through, thank you.

- Thank you so much for having me.

- I'm just so excited to learn more about you.

Can we start as far back as you can remember, Of course where were you raised?

Tell us about where you grew up.

- I was born in Sierra Leone, West Africa.

It's a beautiful country, lots of beaches you know, fresh seafood, just fantastic people overall.

It was lovely growing up there.

You know, I had a wonderful childhood.

- [Peggy Sagers] And you're one of four children.

- I am one of four children, but I have a very very big family, very extended because in my culture, it's normal to have multiple wives.

So, I have aunties and uncles, some of whom I don't even know.

- [Peggy Sagers] That's okay.

- But you know, like it's always fun at Christmas time, you know, so... - So, when you were young and having all those people around, did you notice a lot of what they wore, and things like that?

- Oh, absolutely.

I mean, I think my mom has always been like super stylish, and super cool.

She's very-- - There it was, there it started.

It started with the mother.

- She works a lot, you know, she's always worked a lot but she made sure when she wasn't working, you know she always looked great, you know.

- I think that makes a big impression on us when we're younger, how our mothers attend to themselves.

- Yeah.

- And so you grew up, you even went to school there, private school?

- Yeah.

- And then what changed?

- So, I think I was like in a fifth grade.

I'm not sure that exact period but so one time we had like a coup d'état like they were overtaking the president, and my school was like, literally like down the street from it.

There were like soldiers with guns and everything.

It was very terrifying.

Like, we had no idea what was going on.

We just thought like my brother and I was just like tires going off.

And then like somebody like, you know, just up and took us to the Paramount Hotel.

That's what I remember.

And they gave us a lot of food and so we were happy.

We didn't know what was going on.

Yeah, and then later on we found out what had really happened and it just did not feel safe at that point, you know?

- And you even observed that.

- Absolutely, and well there was already a civil war going on.

And so right after that, it was in the provinces.

So, after that my father decided you know, to take us out of the country.

And so, we moved to London and we were in Sweden briefly.

Yeah, and then we made our way to Ghana, and I was there for three years.

I went to boarding school there.

A really wonderful school, Wesley Girls' High School.

It really taught me, you know, like how to, you know be more of a woman how to be like, you know, just kind of strong, a little bit independent and to behave and compose myself.

- So, you transferred from Ghana then, and that's when you came to the US?

- Yeah.

- And you were young still.

- Yeah, I was 15 when I came to the US.

- So, there's a lot of experiences before 15.

And what, talk to me a little bit about that cultural that whole emergence of a different culture.

- Well, for me, I, you know, like I've always sort of had a comfortable life, you know, fortunately for my parents, you know.

So, I never really needed anything.

But I felt like that was the beginning of my teen years growing up in Ghana, and that already created some friendships.

I already had like my boyfriend, you know.

I didn't want to come to the States.

- 15 is a much harder age to be picking up, and moving around.

So, you were kicking and screaming coming to the United States.

- Yeah, I did not want to come here at all.

And what I wasn't realizing was that there were a lot of people back home you know, who are struggling to come here to like, you know get more opportunities in life.

- Sure.

- And that was not being grateful, you know.

- But those lessons sometimes come down the road not at the time.

- Yeah and then also like, you know, as kids, like, there was a little bit of bullying going on as well, you know.

Now I feel the whole African thing is cool but back in 99, it definitely wasn't cool.

You know what I mean?

So, I had my share of those and I'm like, look at me.

I had a best friend and we were both really thin, and you know, and obviously like we couldn't buy much.

And so it was like probably like buy one garment, and cut it into two so we both could share funny.

- Aha, funny.

- So, I mean, that's, I guess how I started kind of like dressing up or being a little bit creative, but... - 'Cause at 15, 16, you're starting to make now life choices about what you're going to do, and what you're going to become.

So, I know your mother is a nurse, and I know that she spent many her whole life.

She's worked as a nurse.

And so, how did that influence you?

- My mom always just wanted us to be stable which I'm sure they're very happy now 'cause all the kids, you know, have figured themselves out.

So, I think she just instilled that in me on a daily basis, you know, she's like... - Stability - Yes - Stability.

- Absolutely.

- Absolutely.

- The importance of stability.

And I think for parents, you know, a lot of times that comes from that instability that she experienced, you know, moving in the civil war and all of that kind of stuff.

So, she wants her kids to be stable.

And so, she convinces you to be a nurse.

- Nurse - And you become a nurse.

- And I become a nurse because that's what you do as an African child.

- So, now you're stable, and now you're happy, and now you have everything but not.

- Yeah, I mean, you know, I loved it.

I love kids, you know, and I like, if I'm gonna do anything, I'm gonna make sure I do the best at it.

You know what it mean?

So, I feel like I was really good at it.

And you know, I had a wonderful relationship, I actually did home care, you know?

So, I did pediatric.

So, I had a wonderful relationship with these kids, with these families.

- Now, you're talking and relationships.

It's not just about nursing.

But now you're a designer.

So, talk to me about how that evolved, because that is a massive up switch or, you know, switch of different kind and your family, and what did they think and?

- Wow, I'm trying to think of where I begin.

So, I was married in my early twenties, and then I got separated and then a divorce eventually.

And so, when that happened, I kind of felt a little bit lost, you know?

- Oh, that's interesting.

- And yeah, so I took like a little break of life for a little bit.

And, you know, after I got back into the swing of things, I started going out a little bit more just exploring the city, you know, as like this young 20 something year old divorced woman, you know.

So, right after that, I that's when I got into blogging because people kept asking me about my clothing, what I was wearing, you know.

- So, then subliminally or not subliminally maybe on the surface all through this time, even being a nurse, you are still dealing with clothing?

- Yeah.

- Cutting up, splitting it with a friend.

- Yeah, I think that was really like my passion.

You know what I mean?

Like I've just always enjoyed it.

And for me, like my clothing is really a way of expressing myself, you know?

And so, that was always there.

And so, when I was blogging, I did personal style and then I was trying to monetize it.

Then I moved into more celebrity style.

And then that's when I was really opened up to this world of like this, like just really exquisite like garments and style, you know.

Things that I didn't know of, you know like the world of couture, like had no idea about those things, you know, as a younger girl.

- Sure, so I would imagine that this point is when all of these experiences and memories really start to play as you start really blogging, and design kind of somewhat designing for yourself, but giving suggestions to others.

All of those experiences really start defining who you are on some level.

- I think in 2012, I went back home again, and I created a few gowns for myself with the local tailors which is really fun.

I think going back home for me is a lot of humility attached to that because when you have the opportunity to be in the United States and at my age, when I was young I didn't, you know, I didn't feel it was anything.

I was like, okay, whatever, you know?

But then when you go back home, and you see how hard it is, you know, and then you're like, wow, I'm really blessed, I'm really fortunate.

You know what I mean?

- And I would imagine helps drive you more so because you quickly in an instant get to see where you came from versus where you're going.

- Yeah, I completely agree with you.

Not only am I appreciative for the opportunities that has been presented to me in America, you know, it also makes me want to work harder, you know.

- So, I wanna talk to you about production and just India, because that process to me and, you know most don't know that I had a dress line, you know, for a short period of time.

But one of the challenges of a beginner who has a dress line or beginning a dress line, is balancing the fabric, where you're gonna get it, how much to buy, how much to manufacture, because you don't know what's going to sell.

Because you have to do all this before orders come in.

So, how did you settle on some of that as far as where you were going to produce or how you were going to get it produced?

- Well, you know what?

It's actually, so I did my research online before I got into it.

- So, now this is in your off hours of being a nurse.

You'd come home and do all this stuff.

- Yeah, so I've done that and then, one of the, so I move I got my home, I think in 2015.

And then I was working with a little boy as a nurse.

So, the family did want me to leave.

And so, I had like even I had my house in Dallas.

I had to be working over there for like five more months.

And then finally I'm like, "I really need to like leave, I need to come here."

And you know, I hadn't gotten a job yet.

So that's when I had like, this is it "eat,pray"moment?

And I literally just like packed my suitcases, and traveled to like six or seven different countries, you know.

- Did you really?

- Yes.

- Almost back like you, were a little kid you just took off again.

- I literally just took of.

- Oh my gosh, that's inspiring.

- Yeah, and so during that time I was like, "Okay, let me visit some of the countries, some of the people that I to talked to you know, about fashion, about clothing, you know?"

And then that's how I ended up with, you know in India.

And things did not go so great at all, you know?

- Sure, in the beginning.

- No, not at all - Because they wanted, you know, the first styles, you know, I had already had some stuff done in Africa that I took with me but then the first styles that I presented to them, they wanted like this huge mass production.

- Yeah, yeah, yeah, that's why I said, that's what we always run into.

It's hard to start when you're especially when you're designing your own fabric.

- Yeah, I think that's, that's the thing about it because when you're designing your own prints and fabrics like mine, they want a minimum quantity you know, and I couldn't, you know, decide on like, you know, how many prints I wanted.

I wanted to give my customers like more of an option, you know what I mean?

And so that they can see, and I can also see what's selling as well, you know.

- But also just to say, because I wanna make sure everybody understands.

You're not just doing prints, you're doing digital prints.

So, digital prints are very specific to your creation.

- Absolutely.

- So, you're not just creating the style, you're creating the fabric in and of itself.

- Yeah, one of the things is like, you know, like since styles can so be easily copied, you know what I mean?

- Yes.

- And if you go to a store and you see a printed fabric, like you know, like maybe Joanne's or something, you know, there's a possibility, it's other places.

So, I wanted to differentiate myself, you know, to create my own prints, you know.

With elements that I wanted, you know what it mean.

With inspirations that I wanted to use as well.

So, I I'm fortunate now.

Like I have a really good design team that I work with.

And so, we're constantly doing this, like this is never ending, you know.

So, we'll work with one and then we're like, "Oh okay like, let's go back, And we work it again."

Like maybe the borders, you know, like they are not what we want.

They already have experience, the team.

- Sure, your designs, the technology is very sophisticated.

- Thank you.

- And so, you have people that help you with that technology.

- Absolutely, they do.

But of course there's a language barrier.

- Sure.

- You know what I mean?

And I am trying to express to them, you know, - What's in your head.

- What's in my head, you know, because obviously I'm not the designer, you know the print designer, you know.

- So, your construction too is extremely high-end.

I mean, I've noticed all the covered buttons, and the loops and the, you know that detail work is difficult to get accurate if that's fair.

So, you knew that India could do that for you or how did you communicate to them and even ask them if they had the ability to do what you wanted?

- So, you know, I I'm like a lover of really well-made garments, you know.

Like I love vintage pieces.

I collect them, like Mugler, you know, like I love stuff like that.

And I see how, like, you know, like not as a lot of fast fashion, you know.

- Yes, there's is a lot of fast fashion.

- And it's not the attention to detail, like back then, you know?

And so, fortunately since I have some of this pieces I told them like, "Hey, look at the finishing this is how I want it done."

You know what I mean?

Like I wanted those special details on.

So, I had to be present to teach them, you know?

Actually, like, I really loved the tech part of it more.

- Interesting.

- I always felt like, you know, I would do something groundbreaking in fashion and technology.

I mean, I still hope I can, you know.

So, I love that part a lot, you know?

And then I think my designing came in because of the frustration of not being able to get what I wanted in the store.

- Interesting, so I do think that is an incredible attitude that I can do this.

I'm going to create what I want, because I think others will want the same thing.

That's so, you know, I just really admire that whole attitude, you know.

It's just beautifully luxurious.

As far as the fabrics you use, talk to me about your fabrics a little bit because you do the same fabrications.

- Yeah.

- But you do them in both silk and... - Polyester, like just different kinds of organza, taffeta, everything.

- So, your end consumer can actually choose whether they like that design in a silk or they can save money, and pay a little less.

- Yeah.

- I don't know of another designer that even does that.

I think that's an amazing choice.

You have to have a real appreciation of fibers to recognize that you allow the consumer to choose on that.

- And so, now the good thing is like my customers can email me and say, "Hey, I love the prints but can I have it in this style, you know, and in this fabric?

And am like, "Sure, I can do it, just give us like, you know two to three weeks and you will have it."

- That's amazing.

You're at two years, you're at a two year mark now of being in the public and what's, you just won an award.

- It's the FGI.

So, it's a national group and they have other regional ones and they have one in Dallas, in New York, you know?

And so, actually in last year, then I found out I was nominated for the women's wear Rising Star Award.

I did not win, but you know, in my eyes, like I had already won.

- I agree with that.

- I mean, I was barely like, I'd just been a year, you know what I mean?

And I had all my friends and family from everywhere come to celebrate with me, you know?

So, this was a regional one that I was nominated for.

But then the national one, you know like I was one of seven people that were the finalists.

And so, Women's Wear Daily announced that I think it was like two days ago.

And I mean, I still I guess I've not processed it, you know, because I'm just like me, like, I'm like, you know, 'cause like I look at the whole thing like I am making this clothing for myself.

- But that's the beauty of this.

So, that's why I've tried to go over the details of what I see in your clothing that is so unique to what you see out there.

The construction, the placement, the digital printing, the fabrications, the you know, all of those things.

When you really think about all over the country there's been seven people nominated, it's phenomenal.

- It's incredible.

Like I'm just like, wow.

You know, and I just feel really honored and you know, and it feels good because you know, like I do work so hard, you know and I stay up all hours of the night.

So, just any sort of acknowledgment, it just pushes me and motivates me to do more.

- So, the future is bright.

- Yeah.

- I would love to see some of the designs you have.

Do you mind sharing them with us?

No, of course I would love to, let's do it.

- Oh, let's go look.

Let's go look.

So, with this one Sai, I noticed the print is really similar to what you have on, but yours has a border and this one is just the print itself.

Talk to me about the inspiration of this.

- Okay, so this is my newest collection, and it's called Portrait of a Lady.

The initial inspiration for it was Italy 'cause it was gonna be shot in Italy.

I love Italy.

I've been there a couple of times.

So, that was my inspiration for this collection.

And then obviously at that time, it became the epicenter, you know, of the pandemic.

So, we couldn't do that.

And we had to find ways around it.

So, but mainly all the prints were custom done.

All the flowers that you see were custom done.

- It's beautiful.

- And so, my designers went back again, and like brightened everything because that's just really how I love my colors.

This print is called the Magdalene Print by the way, you know, my sister names, all of the prints.

- Sure, gives them personality.

- Yeah, absolutely.

And if you ever go on my website, there's like little stories-- - Of each one, - Each one-- - And how they are named.

- Yeah, and like, maybe this is like a lady that just got a divorce.

And she just wants to feel free, you know?

'Cause she's traveling, you know, in Tuscany.

And so, she would wear a gown like this, you know, just to make a statement, it's really fun stories.

- Because this combination of this fit and this fullness is just stunning.

Just how many yards of fabric, and something like this roughly.

- At least like 16 meters, you know.

- So, quite a bit.

- Yeah.

- I don't think I've ever worn anything with that much yardage.

I would love just stroll down the beach in this because I think exactly what you're saying.

You've done it perfectly, the freedom, the liberation, you know, whatever that means.

- I love volume, you know?

And I'm like, if we're going to do it like we have to go all out, you know?

So, this right here just hugs the woman.

- So that's what I love about it.

'Cause a lot of times when you see volume, it's done to where the woman looks like she has volume.

But what you just said, how did you know to do that?

Or how did, was that just instinctual that you worked through?

- You know, I feel like back in the day they used to wear a lot of corsets, you know?

So, this is kind of like a take on the corsets.

And so, you have this really like kind of sexy like burst line.

So, this is a take on it.

Like I like clothing that fits me well.

Once again, if you go back to like, you know, like my inspirations, like Thierry Mugler, you know he's like pieces of just phenomenal like when it comes to fitting.

And so, this is like one of those things where it's like you know, like I do want the volume, you know, but I still want to, like I want it to hold me like a woman.

- It's a beautiful balance.

- Thank you.

- It's really a beautiful balance.

- It comes like, you know, we have the regular caftan as well like what you're wearing.

We have it like in silk as well, same exact one with cool boarders comes with a matching pants.

So, once I love a print I try to do it in different styles to see how it translates.

And so, also that my customers have more, you know, selections.

- The print is beautiful.

So, digital printing just means that the fabric is there, and then you're printing on top of the fabric.

- Yeah.

- But with yours, the one you have on, your digital printing allows you to create those custom borders.

- Absolutely.

- Because you're creating them in conjunction with the pattern.

So, that then you can just lay the pattern and it follows.

So, talk to me about the embellishment then that's layered on top.

- Okay, so the initial ones that I did, which were yours because it has so much volume, you know, like that already is like a showstopper, you know?

And so, this one is just like, you know the regular caftan, you know, the regular regular backs caftan.

We have the little cool slits in here, but I just wanted to add a little touch to it.

Just in case like today, I'm not wearing a lot of jewelry.

Normally, I am piled on with jewelry, you know?

So, because we're ladies and we're glamorous, we will always have to have a little bit of sparkle, you know.

- I like that.

- So, we do this like individually, you know.

And this is one of the samples 'cause on my last trip, like I was running late, you know, to go to the airport.

Because we were up working all night long to 6:00 AM.

So, I had to actually do some of this on my own.

So, it's really special to me, but that's what we do with every single one.

It's like individually done.

- You're talking a lot of hours.

- Oh yeah.

So like for, they're like taking one crystal you know, at a time doing it.

- Wow.

- Oh yeah.

- Talk to me about this one here.

- So, I love this piece as well.

This is called the Jezebel Print.

- Jezebel print.

- Yeah, I don't know what my sister named it that, but... - It's about the woman, it's about the woman.

Somehow in her mind as Jezebel but.... - See, I love animal prints.

My previous collection had a lot of those.

And so, I just wanted to add a little bit of florals like break it up a little bit.

And so, that's why we did this border.

And the great thing about this one is that it comes in two different colors.

We have this beautiful, like orange red and then now we have it like in blue.

But I wanted to do like a coat dress.

I didn't just want like a regular coat dress.

I just wanted like a statement piece, you know.

- So, I love that mixing of tradition with contemporary, and how you've done that because you're right.

It does have the feeling of that coat dress.

And yet it takes it up a whole nother level, not just the styling but also I love the pattern, and the borders here but that exaggeration through the neck line.

So beautiful.

- And it has like a really cool train.

You go wear this is on the red carpet, but tomorrow, like I wanna be glamorous on the beach 'cause I deserve it.

So, I'm gonna wear a bathing suit, and wear this on top of it.

- Well, I love that I grew up in Miami.

And so many times there were a lot of beautiful things worn on the beach.

It's certainly not just the bathing suit.

The now famous signature Dickey jacket is a twist on the classic blazer.

It's from the label Veronica Beard, which was co-founded by two sisters in law, Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard.

Join us next time on "Fit 2 Stitch", as we learned the details.

(upbeat music) - [Narrator] "Fit 2 Stitch" is made possible by Kai Scissors, Bennos Buttons, OC Sewing, Orange County, Vogue Fabrics, Pendleton, Imitation of Life, and Clutch Nails.

To order a four DVD set of "Fit 2 Stitch" series 9 please visit our website at www.fit2stitch.com.